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After the Christmas turkey's gone, chef James Saftich suggests an after-party meal featuring scallops, braised wild boar and rabbit agnoiotti.
nv a onChef James Saftich gives us an inside look at the world of a private chef
BY REBECCA PONTON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL ATTWOOD
W
ITH HIS OUTGOING
personality and penchant
for storytelling-not to
mention that Australian
accent-it's easy to envision
chef James Saftich hosting his own cook-
ing show. However, the San Antonio-based
private chef prefers to keep a low profile or,
as he puts it, to "fly under the radar." That's
understandable, given the nature of his work,
where the emphasis is on private.
As Saftich takes great pains to explain,
there is a difference between a private chef
and a personal chef. A personal chef is one
who goes to a client's home and cooks or
delivers pre-cooked meals, such as lasagna
or meatloaf; whereas, a private chef prepares
everything from scratch with freshly-bought
ingredients specifically for that meal. "The
bottom line;' he stresses, "is the quality of the
food." One of the greatest challenges a private
chef faces is creating original meal plans on a
daily basis and avoiding repetition, requiring
what Saftich refers to as an "amazing array" of
recipes in his repertoire.
Perhaps a more important distinction
involves chef-client confidentiality. Because a
private chef has more of a partner relationship
with his clients, it is imperative that the utmost
discretion is observed. In determining whether
he and the client are a good fit, not only
does the client interview Saliich, but Safiich
invites the potential client to a consultation
at his home in San Antonio's Mary Mont
neighborhood, where he prepares a six to eight-
course taste flight. The final meal is served at the
dining room table in order to discuss specific
details, including "lots of variables that depend
34 ,;-Country Lifestyle "* November/December 2009
on personal preference;' Safiich says.
In addition to private chef services,
Safiich, whose business is the cleverly named
Our Private Chef (917-640-2440, www.
ourprivatechif.com) is also available for dinner
parties and offers three levels of service: Silver,
Gold and Platinum with each level building on
the previous level.
Silver service is buffet-style and typically
involves cocktail parties and business
functions. Gold service includes printed
menus, individual plating and a brief
explanation by Sattich of the dishes. Platinum
service is limited to a maximum of 10 guests,
because of the preparation and work involved.
Guests are given a choice of two menus,
a complete course explanation, tables ide
finishing and wine pairings, along with an
optional cooking demonstration.

2. The Language of Fine Cuisine
Interestingly, Saftich took a rather circuitous
route to becoming a chef. A first-generation
Australian born to Italian parents, it was his
dream to become an interpreter. After complet-
ing his studies in European linguistics in Italy,
he returned to Australia, only to discover the
government wanted embassy employees to hold
economics degrees. Perhaps even more disap-
pointing was the salary.
Thinking, "There's got to be a better way,"
Safrich went into sales, eventually landing in
marketing and advertising and going on to open
his own ad agency in New York, where he met
his future wife, Jenn.
By 2005, feeling "burned out" and having
made "enough money to walk away and do what
I'd always wanted to do-become a chef," Saftich
enrolled in the prestigious French Culinary
Introducing New Traditions
With the holidays approaching, who better to
ask for holiday dinner ideas than a private chef?
Saftich learned the hard way not to go against
tradition years ago when his in-laws went to
New York to visit his wife and him during the
Christmas holidays and accepted his offer to
cook the holiday meal. Not wanting to prepare
the "same old tired bird," Saftich created a feast
that was not a traditional Pennsylvania-Dutch
Christmas dinner and was soundly "raked over
the coals," according to his telling. He laughs
now, but says he learned "not to mess with
tradition," particularly a holiday tradition.
Instead of trying to convince people to
give up their long-held Christmas dinner
traditions, which may have been in the family
for generations, Saftich often suggests what he
calls a simple "after-party" meal, consisting of a
Institute, from which he graduated with honors.
Explaining, "I was a little older than the
[average graduate l,I had made a career change,
and I didn't have 10 years to establish myself,"
he realized he could either work for a restaurant
chain or "hunker down and go with the big guys."
And the latter is exactly what he did. He worked
with such Michelin superstars of the culinary
world as George Mendes, Daniel Boulud and
Jean Georges Vongerichten at his eponymous
restaurant in NYC.
Saftich relocated to San Antonio in 2007,
when his wife's job took them to the ciry.
He noticed the growing trend of individuals
renovating their kitchens to semi-professional
standards, but not taking full advantage of
their capabilities. The idea to become a private
chef-to take fine dining into individual clients'
homes-was born.
November/December 2009 "* Country Lifestyle '* 35

3. At the end of the day, Saftich indulges in his love of Australian wine.
six to eight-course taste flight. Country Lifestyle
Magazine recently had the pleasure of being
invited to his home to witness the preparation
of such a meal.
AFTER-PARTY MENU
Scallops, "Confiture de figues"
and Prosciutto Powder
Braised Rabbit Agnolotti & Sauce
Espagnole
Green & White Asparagus & Black
Winter Truffle Vinaigrette
Wild Boar Braised Ribs in Red Wine
Garnish:
Gratin Dauphinois
Pear Onions-Glacer a blanc
Bacon and Mushrooms
Baby Globe Carrots
Harcourt Verts
DESSERT
Duo Winter Ice Cream
Cinnamon Ice Cream
with Candied Walnuts
Burnt Orange Ice Cream
On an enormous blackboard on the wall of his
kitchen, Safiich diagrams the entire meal with
sketches and lists of ingredients and arrows
directing him to the next step-much like a
scientific formula or mathematical equation.
As he cooks, Saftich, who offers cooking
lessons from beginner to advanced, explains
what he's doing. His conversation is liberally
sprinkled with his favorite expression, "I'll
be honest:' as he offers tips for the less-gifted
among us.
"The difference between a good restaurant
and a Michelin-starred restaurant is
consistency, and the only way to achieve that
is to cook in grams."
36 * Country Lifestyle * November/December 2009
"When boiling water for pasta or
vegetables, use enough salt for the water to
taste like the ocean."
"In any recipe that calls for onions, swap
for shallots-they're sweeter."
"If I can't see the eyes of the fish [to check
for freshness], I will never buy it."
"[When sauteing]' add olive oil to the
butter to keep it from burning."
"If your wild boar tastes too gamey,
introduce juniper or another strong, heavy
flavor."
Sharing his love and knowledge of
Australian wines, Saftich suggests, "Anything
from Western Australian, the Margaret River
Region-all winners. Grange Hermitage, if
you can afford it, is an investment; you want
to cellar it for five, 10 or 20 years. And, if
you're offered Yellow Tail, don't drink it!" he
says with a hearty laugh.
As we begin sampling each dish-from
the succulent scallops, their flavor enhanced
by the sweetness of the fig jam and the
savory taste of the Prosciutto, to the "zingy"
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4. asparagus salad ("to re-awaken your palate")
to the tender braised boar-we feel confident
that this is one private chef whose reputation
will not be an inside secret much longer.
RECIPES
Pasta for the Agnolotti
Ingredients
200g flour (7oz) 1/<1 semolina and
% all-purpose flour
2-3 whole eggs
5g salt (1 tsp.)
1Oml olive oil (.330z)
Procedure
On a work counter, mix flours together and form
a well in center. Add eggs, salt and oil into well
and mix with a fork until the flour has adsorbed
all the liquid. When all ingredients are mixed,
form the dough into a ball and knead for 10
minutes. (It will become very smooth and tough
in texture.) Form into ball again and cover in
plastic. Rest in fridge for minimum one hour.
Connect pasta machine. Cut dough in half and
flatten one piece at a time. Set machine on widest
setting and commence feeding dough through
rollers. Fold in half or into thirds and repeat
process until it becomes smooth and satiny.
Start on the next lower number (narrowing
the space) and run dough through at least twice,
so it becomes thinner and longer. Work until it is
at No. 4 or 2mm (1/16") thick.
Leave long dough band to dry five minutes
(it should be pliable, not dry nor sticky nor
too moist).
Place one teaspoon of braised meat (see
next recipe) an inch apart on one side In a little
mound, then fold over and press together. Cut
out shape.
Place into salted boiling water and cook until
just tender (al dente). Remove. Let dry and rest.
Finish
Heat pan. Add large knob ofbutter, sage leaves,
salt and white pepper. Add agnoloni and cook
three minutes, stirring or tossing until butter is
browned and sage flavor has been released.
Plate with some black winter trufile juliennes,
chanterelles,Thai Basil Micro and pork rillons
(rectangular shape pork belly/bacon).
Wine Pairing
Pinor Noir or Very Oaky Buttery Chardonnay
Braised Rabbit & Sauce Espagnole
Ingredients
2 standard rabbits (approx. 3 Ibs. each)
2 large onions-diced 112 inch
5 medium carrots-peeled & cut 112 inch
2 large celery stems-cut 112 inch
After filling the agnolotti with braised rabbit, Saftich patiently forms each one by hand.
1 large leek-white and light green parts
only cut 1/2 inch
4 medium garlic cloves, smashed
200g (7oz) bacon lardons
170gr (6oz) can of tomato paste
150ml (5.50z) white wine
Quarter rabbit and reserve saddle/ribs for
future use. Over high heat, add canola oil to a
large saucepan. Season eight rabbit legs with
salt and white pepper, then saute until medium
brown. Once complete, place on separate tray
lined with paper towel. Continue working
in batches until all is complete. Add bacon
lardoons until browned, transfer to Dutch oven.
In the same hot pan, add all vegetables
(onions, carrots, celery, leeks and garlic) and
cook for seven minutes, tossing frequently.
(This is just enough to caramelize the surface
of the carrots without burning the leeks.) Add
the tomato paste and continue stirring until
everything is coated in the paste. Remove and
toss into Dutch oven. Deglaze pan with white
wine lifting all the sues and pour into Dutch
Bouquet Garni
2 fresh bay leaves
4 stems of fresh thyme
10 stems of parsley
2 sprigs of tarragon
6 cups of veal stock
Salt and white pepper
Procedure
Preheat oven to 3S0F. Bring veal stock to the boil.
November/December 2009 "* Country Lifestyle * 37

5. Invitation to a Private Party
oven. Tie parsley, thyme, tarragon and bay leaves
with butcher's twine (Bouquet Garni). Place
into Dutch oven with meat on top of vegetables,
add boiling stock.
Cut parchment paper to make a lid and
insert. Seal top opening with aluminum foil
and place heavy lid on top. Slide into oven on
middle shelf and braise for 1 Y2 hours. Check
contents (meat should be falling of the bone
with ease). If not, leave another Y2 hour.
Carefully remove meat and place into
deep tray or large pot. Strain contents into
a China cap placed inside a chinois. Push
for maximum extraction. Discard cooked
vegetables. Place liquid in a saucepan and
bring to boil, skimming impurities as they
rise to the surface.
Meanwhile, pull meat in small strips or
use knife to mince (do not cut smaller than
YI inch), pour a splash of liquid onto meat to
moisten. Reserve the portions to be used for the
agnolotti. Cover remainder and refrigerate for
one to three days maximum.
Green & White Asparagus & Black
Winter Truffle Vinaigrette
Ingredients
A 40g (1.41 oz) Dijon mustard
5g (1 tsp) garlic
46g (1.62 oz) shallots
60g (2.10 oz) sherry vinegar
Salt & white pepper
B 110g (3.88 oz) olive oil
30g (1.05 oz) truffle oil
20g (.70 oz) black winter
truffles-minced
Finish
7g (1 tsp) chives, tarragon
5g (1 tsp) shallots-very fine ciseler
10g (2 tsp) micro sweet Chinese cabbage
3g (1 tsp) micro Bull's Blood
78g (2.75 oz) green asparagus = 4 stems
70g (2.46 oz) white asparagus = 3 stems
Place all "A" ingredients in blender and
process. Add "B" ingredients in a slow stream
so as to emulsify, then fold in the minced
truffle. Reserve.
Peel asparagus, blanch in salted water, then
refresh in salted ice bath. Cut to desired length
and refrigerate until ready.
In a bowl, place one serving of white and
green asparagus, two tablespoons of vinaigrette,
shallot ciseler and fine herbs, salt and white
pepper. Coat asparagus.
Plate one or two white and reverse direction
of green and sprinkle sweet micros and sorrel.
(It can be also finished with truffle slices for
main appetizers size, although more asparagus
would be used.)
Texture: This dish, which is served cold,
has been designed specifically to "re-zing" the
palate in between two heavy game meat dishes
and works just like you would use Prosecco to
cleanse the palate.
Wine Pairing
Glass ofProsecco
38 7t Country Lifestyle 71:- November/December 2009
This tangy asparagus salad refreshes the palate between heavier-flavored dishes. The Bull's Blood garnish adds extra appeal.

6. Invitation to a Private Party
Burnt Orange Ice Cream
Ingredients
300g (10.58 oz) granulated sugar
Juice of 4 oranges and 1 lemon
Grated zest of 4 oranges
60ml (2.11 Grand Marnier
946ml oz) milk
16 egg yolks
1509 (5.29 oz) granulated sugar
473ml (16.86 oz) heavy cream
Procedure
Make a dry caramel with 300 grams of the
sugar. Add the orange and lemon juice care-
fully to the caramel along with the Grand
Mamier. Set aside. Infuse the milk with the
zest, heat, let steep. Make a creme anglaise
Cinnamon and
Burnt Orange Ice
Cream provide a
sweet finish.
No mere recipe cards for this chef! Saftich sketches the entire menu on an enormous black-
board before he begins cooking.
with the milk, egg yolks and 150
grams of the sugar. Add the caramel
and the cream to the creme anglaise.
Process the mixture in the ice cream
machine. Reserve.
quenelle from each ice cream. Place on plate
and finish with orange rind.
'Ice cream (ourtesy Culi-
nary Instittcte.
Finish
Using a large deep tablespoon, make a
Wine Pairing
Glass of Arnaretro, Grand Mamier or
Expresso. OJ
November/December 2009 ,i,; Country Lifestyle "* 39