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PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 85
NEWSLETTER
BUYER’S COMMENTS
Bill Cournoyer, men’s clothing of
BERGDORF&GOODMAN(USA):
“A busy atmosphere and very inter-
esting collections. The Central Pa-
vilion houses the most important
and representative Italian brands
and the first one I visit as soon as I
arrive at the fair. Very interesting the
Make area on the lower floor, devot-
ed to the great Italian tailoring tradi-
tion: you can feel all the Italian pas-
sion for fashion. In addition to the
classic names, Pitti offers the chance
to learn about the up-and-coming
brands.Nootherfairgathersasmany
top-quality brands as Pitti does”.
Ahmet Ocal, Chief Buyer, men mer-
chandise of BEYMEN (Turkey):
“Pitti Uomo is the starting point
of every season. Tailoring ele-
gance and tradition are the key
words of this edition. The fair is
becoming increasingly import-
ant, in the past two years there has
been a great focus on accessories.
Aaron Kihyun Kim, buyer
BEAKER (South Korea):
“A casual and contemporary at-
mosphere. Pitti Uomo is a very
important event, because it offers
a global and complete overview
of both top-quality made-in-Ita-
ly brands and international-ori-
ented collections. The fair is
well organized and easy to visit.
WHAT IS PITTI UOMO?
PITTI UOMO CLOSING FIGURES
As the men’s portion of the Pitti Immagine collection of fashion
events,PittiUomoisatradeshowinFlorence,Italythat’sbeenaround
since 1972. It’s a four-day market-facing event in which retailers,
buyers, and editors come together to view upcoming collections.
Pitti Uomo 85 ended on a very positive note with a reassuring
increase with respect to last January’s attendance figures. Uomo
85 registered nearly 21,000 buyers, a total of nearly 30,000 vis-
itors overall and a 4% increase in the number of Italian buyers.
INSIDE THIS ISSUE
GUEST DESIGNER: DIESEL BLACK GOLD
DIESEL BLACK GOLD REVIEW
TREND REPORT
STREET STYLE REPORT
PITTI IMMAGINE EXHIBITION LAYOUT
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Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine: “The ar-
rival of Andreas Melbostad as the creative director of
Diesel Black Gold immediately gave the women’s collection a
considerable boost so as soon as we heard that he would also be work-
ing on the men’s side, and expecting an underlying coherence between
the two collections, we decided to suggest that Diesel Black Gold make
its debut in Florence as the Menswear Guest of Pitti Uomo in January 2014.
We have admired Melbostad’s talent for many years and we are very
curious to see what he will create for the Florentine scene, especially
because the next edition of the fair will have a very “musical” inspiration.”
Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold Creative Director: “It is an hon-
or to present my first Diesel Black Gold men’s collection at Pitti. It is a
unique opportunity to showcase the new cohesive vision for the line, ex-
pressing its strong distinctive voice. I will enforce the core codes of the
collection with my own sensibility and hand. In this task, I appreciate
the support of Renzo Rosso who gives the confidence and inspiration.”
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
MENSWEAR GUEST
DESIGNER AT PITTI
Under the creative direction of Andreas Melbostad
Andreas Melbostad is a
Norwegian fashion designer
who was the creative direc-
tor for the label Phi before its
closure in December of 2009.
His fashion training was at
London’s Royal College of
Art. He has been Creative
director of Diesel Black Gold
womenswear since 2012 and
overall creative director since
2013.
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P
itti Uomo is a large and intimidating stage on which to
make your debut, but if Melbostad was fazed by the occa-
sion, he didn’t show it. His approach was methodical and,
more to the point, probably the right one given the circum-
stances. He didn’t shoot out of the gate with an entirely new
proposition; he identified the core of what Diesel does well and
offered a stark, pared-back version of it that plays well with the
biker-chick look he’s been plying at Diesel Black Gold’s wom-
enswear. (To underscore the point, Melbostad sent out a few
girls in custom looks.)
Diesel’s hard-rocking fans should find plenty to tickle their
studded, high-shine fancies. The flashier among them will thrill
to the silver-foiled separates, and maybe the jeans fairly wallpa-
pered in studs. This reviewer inclined more to the fur-trimmed
hooded parkas. But whatever one liked or didn’t here, there was
no disputing that this was a palate-cleansing first step toward a
new, more cohesive Black Gold—though it may be a misnomer
to use the word “cleansing” for a collection this treated, oiled,
foiled, and spackled. The D in “Diesel” might as well stand for
“denim,” but in view of the fact that DBG is the company’s most
luxurious line, Melbostad shied away from it in its plain form.
Instead, he drew on the company’s yen for denim innovation
to create glossy, slick fabrics out of humble cotton that looked
like patent leather, vinyl, and eel skin. A working knowledge
of alchemy can only serve him well as he starts on collection
number two.
REVIEW
January 08, 2014
Florence
By Matthew Schneier
PITTI PEOPLE @ DIESEL BLACK GOLD
JEREMY RENNER GIANLUCA CANTARO JAMES & LOUISE-
HOLM FERRAGAMO
STEFANO & ANDREA
ROSSO
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Street trends @ Pitti 85
Special Report
COLOR PLAY
SPECIAL MENTION: Antonio Di Filippo
PATTERN SPORT JACKET
Many gents were rocking fresh and natural colours such
as beige, sky-blue, ivory and contrasted the neutral pal-
ate with pops of colour in their shirts or ties. Reds, pinks,
salmon, azure, orange and yellow were eye-catching.
A carry-over from last Autumn/Winter, well-cut plaid
sports jackets and suiting are a nod to the influence Brit-
ain has on menswear right now, but the Italian take on this
look elevates it from the traditional to the sublime. Bold
colours with patterns such as Glen plaid, windowpane or
houndstooth were everywhere at Pitti, and the most dap-
per of gents wore them with patterned shirts.
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DOUBLE BREASTED BLAZER POCKET SQUARE
SPECIAL MENTION: Nick Wooster
The double-breasted blazer was out in force. It’s been
around for a few seasons but far from being a quirk, it
seems here to stay for a while longer. Gents around Pitti
wore them in both solid colours and with patterns, with
4 or 6 buttons and with peak and notch lapels – the dou-
ble-breasted blazer is the perfect way to stand out in the
crowd or to take your jeans and shirt look from smart ca-
sual to something a bit more special.
The resurgence of pocket squares may be due to Mad Men
but the Italian’s have been comfortable wearing them for
years. Whether you’re a purist and wear white or take
the look one step further with a burst of colour – com-
plementing – not matching your tie – wearing a pocket
square shows individuality and flair and no self respecting
gent at Pitti would be seen without one.
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How to reach Pitti Uomo 85
Directions
By Car
By Train
By Plane
The Autostrada del Sole (A1 motorway) links Florence
with Bologna and Milan to the north and Rome and
Naples to the south. The Firenze Mare (A11 motorway)
links it with Lucca and the Tyrrhenian coast off the Ge-
noa-Livorno A12 motorway.
Following the start of work to renovate, extend and en-
hance the exhibition venue, Pitti Immagine has developed
all its services with a view to making access to the Fortez-
za da Basso easier and more practical:
- large car park for exhibitors and the press in Piazzale
Vittorio Veneto (Cascine area);
- large car park for visitors in Viale Guidoni on the corner
with Via Sandro Pertini;
- large car park for exhibitors in Piazzale Vittorio Veneto;
- large car park for stand fitters in Via XI Agosto (Peretola
area);
- continual shuttle service to and from the three car park
areas and the Fortezza da Basso;
- additional shuttle services to and from the Fortezza da
Basso and city hotels.
Florence is linked to major Italian and European cities by
Eurostar trains.The main station is Santa Maria Novella,
located right in the centre and just 200 metres from the
Fortezza da Basso.
“Amerigo Vespucci” airport in Florence
It is about 4 km outside the city centre and offers air links
with major European cities and with airports in Rome
and Milan, making for easy links with all international
destinations.
“Galileo Galilei” airport in Pisa
60 km from Florence. There is a one-hour rail connection
between Pisa airport and Florence. Free ticket for the Pisa
Airport/Santa Maria Novella Florence train on presenta-
tion of proof of participation in Pitti. Outbound tickets
can be picked up at the Pitti Immagine – Carlson Wag-
onlit Desk in Pisa Airport, whereas return tickets must be
requested at the Pitti Immagine – Carlson Wagon desk at
the Fortezza da Basso (Central Pavilion - groung floor) .
The only free means of transport for buyers is the train.
No other means of transport are eligible
