2. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
The Art Museum
Page layout
Design and Art Direction
3. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Ingres
Page layout
Design and Art Direction
4. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Géricault
Page layout
Design and Art Direction
5. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Decorative Art 60s
Design of cover, introduction and break spreads
Design and Art Direction
6. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Industrial Design A-Z
Design and Art Direction
7. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Open Asia
Exhibition book of photographs by Kris Dewitte
Design and Art Direction
8. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Books
Hitchcock
Book for season of films at the BFI Southbank
39 Steps to the Genius of Hitchcock 4746
Hitchcock always made a key clarification whenever
anyone quoted his famous dictum,“Actors are cattle.”
What he really said, Hitch claimed, was that actors should
be treated like cattle.Well, cattle in most countries are fed
and allowed to graze until being led to the abattoir. So are
Hitchcock’s actors so many lambs to the slaughter, too?
Hitch took a fetishist’s delight in dressing up his blonde
leading ladies over the years so that they started to seem like
different versions of each other,Anny Ondra blending into
the cooler Madeleine Carroll, white-hot Grace Kelly morphing
into the existentially confused Kim Novak and then into
the more brittle Tippi Hedren.Yet they are distinct, and his
handling of them is distinct, even if he sometimes led them
into repeating certain tropes from his own past.The last time
I saw Vertigo, I noticed that when Novak is playing Madeleine
Elster, she often repeats exactly the halting vocal patterns of
Joan Fontaine in Rebecca and Suspicion. Hitch himself professed
to be slightly bewildered with Novak’s Method approach to her
role, where she wanted to think out every moment. It seems
clear that Hitchcock was not a fan of actorly autonomy.
The green Fontaine gives such a fine performance in
Rebecca partly because the other more experienced British
actors in the cast (Laurence Olivier among them) dismissed
and ignored her off camera as well as on. Hitchcock would
knowingly foster a situation like that on his sets if it served
the needs of his film, but by the 1950s he had no patience
with either Novak’s worries or with the cerebral gymnastics
of Montgomery Clift in I Confess, a performance where every
single moment has been chewed on in such a self-conscious
way that finally all you see is a beautiful actor acting up
a storm beneath his mannered guises of underplaying
or trying to be lifelike, so that he’s an awfully neurotic-
seeming priest, even though he’s supposed to be totally
repressed. Clift makes the feelings of this man so evident
underneath the repression that there are certain close-
ups where they glare like a neon sign; this is not the kind
of showy performing that Hitchcock generally favoured.
During Hitchcock’s silent period, his actors seem left to
their own devices, though he does show an alertness to the
strange carnality of Anny Ondra in The Manxman, which spills
over into his first talking feature, Blackmail.The surviving
sound test for Blackmail shows Hitch’s way with actresses:
he mercilessly teases Ondra.“Have you been a bad woman
or something?” he asks, as she fidgets happily.“But you’ve
slept with men,” he insists, and she flutters and cries,“Oh,
no!” in a very coquettish, very worldly fashion (Ondra was
Czech, not British).“Stand in your place, otherwise it will
not come out right, as the girl said to the soldier,” he jokes,
while Ondra puts her hand to her mouth and giggles away
from him. Hitchcock could be a put-on comic and a dirty
I Confess (1953, opposite)
Hitchcock confers with Montgomery Clift. He
had little patience for Clift’s Method approach.
Blackmail (1929, below)
Hitchcock encouraged Anny Ondra’s boldly
sexual performance.
Step eleven:
in the act
By Dan callahan
39 Steps to the Genius of Hitchcock 5352
Step twelve:
The RighT Women
By Camille Paglia
The Birds (1963, top)
Suzanne Pleshette (left) and Tippi Hedren
(right) stand frozen beneath a full moon.
To Catch a Thief (1955, above)
Grace Kelly, wearing the diamond necklace
she invites John Robie (Cary Grant) to touch.
Vertigo (1958, opposite)
Kim Novak as Madeleine.
Psycho (1960, below)
Marion Crane (Janet Leigh) in one of her
formidably constructed brassieres.
With a spate of new movies being made about Alfred
Hitchcock, charges about his reputed misogyny will soon be
back in the air.There is abundant evidence of Hitchcock’s
insistence on total and sometimes autocratic control of his
productions as well as of his leading ladies. But misogyny is a
hopelessly simplistic and reductive term for the passionately
conflicted attitude of major male artists towards women.
Art-making is not just a formal exercise but a quest for
identity, a strategy of defence against turbulent reality.
Hitchcock’s view of women is not politically correct. But
his haunting films continue to gain power over time because
of the profound depth and searing truth of his emotional
world.What he records is the agonised complexity of men’s
relationship to women – a roiling mass of admiration,
longing, neediness and desperation. Heterosexual men
instinctively know that women have magic. Gay men know
it and, through high fashion, ingeniously enhance it. Drag
queens heartily mimic it. Most heterosexual women keenly
observe, monitor and competitively evaluate the magic of
other women. Only feminist theorists, evidently, fail to see
that magic – or they contemptuously dismiss it as a product
of social conditioning and commercial manipulation.
Hitchcock’s great films of the 1950s and early 1960s show
the tension between men’s fear of emotional dependency
and their worship of women’s beauty, which floods the
eye and enforces an erotic response over which a man has
ethical but not conceptual control. Beautiful women are a
fascinating conflation of nature and art.They often have
an elusive, dreamy apartness, suggesting a remote inner
realm to which a man can claim only momentary access. It
is a theme in Botticelli’s Birth ofVenus, Raphael’s Madonnas,
and Leonardo’s Mona Lisa. It can be seen in more sexually
perverse form in Rossetti’s florid somnambules and the
drugged odalisques of Ingres and Manet. Beautiful young
men too may have that reserve and distance, as captured
from Greek art to Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray. Jean
Cocteau saluted Wilde in declaring,“The privileges of beauty
are enormous.” Similarly,Tennessee Williams’s Mrs Stone
says,“People who are very beautiful make their own laws.”
The two poles of Hitchcock’s erotic vision are woman as
objet d’art and woman as devouring mother. One pleasures the
eye, and the other assaults it. Hitchcock warned Janet Leigh
before Psycho,“My camera is absolute.” His camera habitually
frames woman as a gorgeous cult object whom he loves to
dress and drape.We know from Edith Head that Hitchcock
designed Grace Kelly’s clothes for RearWindow; everything was
already specified, from colour to fabric, in the script. He chose
Kim Novak’s magnificently varied clothing for Vertigo, forcing a
now classic grey suit on her that she hated. He took Eva Marie
Saint to Bergdorf Goodman’s, sat with her as mannequins
39 Steps to the Genius of Hitchcock 1716
Much of Hitchcock’s early inspiration came from silent
filmmakers who barely survived the industry’s conversion to
sound at the end of the 1920s. No one now remembers the
unsuccessful talkies (two each) made by the great pioneers
D.W. Griffith and Victor Sjöström; F.W. Murnau died in 1931
without having made a fully synchronised film.What if
Hitchcock’s own career had ended, for whatever reason,
before he made Britain’s first talking feature, Blackmail, in
1929? Would he still, like them, have a significant place in
film history? Probably not.Would he deserve to?Yes.
Compared with men like those, his directing career
in silent cinema had been brief: four years and ten films,
including the silent version of Blackmail. Nor did any of
these films, unlike theirs, make an international impact at
the time.Those that reached America were received with
condescension or outright scorn. For Variety, his third feature
The Lodger was“a trashy commercial film worthless for‘art’
audiences and for the generality of American fans alike”, while
his seventh, The Farmer’sWife, was a“meritless” picture whose
direction was simply“amateurish”.America was ready to
welcome more obviously exotic films from continental Europe,
but British films had a continual struggle. Reviewers failed
to make any distinction between Hitchcock and his British
contemporaries, let alone to recognise that his use of the silent
medium in these films was, in its sophistication, at least in
the same league as the bright young Hollywood directors of
the time such as John Ford, Howard Hawks and King Vidor.
Even in America, Hitchcock’s silent output is now
becoming more fully known and celebrated than theirs,
but several big things had to happen in order to make this
possible. In the mid-1930s he began to make an international
impact with thrillers like The 39 Steps, and this encouraged,
crucially, the preservation of his work by the film-archive
movement that was just getting seriously under way. His move
to Hollywood in 1939 raised him to a new level of celebrity,
and his subsequent films would become central texts in
the spectacular expansion of writing and teaching about
cinema that took place from the 1960s onward – which in
turn created a growing interest in his early work, including
the silent films. Finally,VHS and then DVD allowed these
films to become more accessible; the strong Hitchcock
market supplied an incentive to restore and present them
with maximum care, the BFI’s restoration of Hitchcock’s
nine surviving silent films being the crowning point of this.
Had Hitchcock made no sound films, a few of the
silent ones might survive in archival obscurity, providing
material for the occasional article in specialist journals
about a career of unfulfilled promise. From today’s
perspective, they have a double interest: as harbingers of
the great works of Hitchcock’s maturity and as eloquent
(Top)
The young Alfred Hitchcock, photographed in
his breakthrough year, 1926.
(Above)
The press-book cover for Hitchcock’s overlooked
silent comedy ‘The Farmer’s Wife’ (1928).
The Lodger (1926, opposite)
Ivor Novello emerges dramatically through the
London fog.
Step three:
The evoluTion of sTyle
By Charles Barr
STEPS TO
39
Edited by James Bell
ISBN 978-1-84457-534-3
£12
39STEPST0THEGENIUSOFHITCHCOCKEditedbyJamesBell
BFI COMPENDIUM
Fear of disorder, fear of authority – Alfred Hitchcock
set out to “put the audience through it”while keeping
his own less universal fears off-screen.“Fear of being
laughed at for his eccentric artistic interests, fear of
seeming pretentious or boring”– this legacy of an East
End upbringing, according to his authorised biographer
John RussellTaylor, explained Hitchcock’s reluctance
to discuss his artistic awakening with any candour.
Design and Art Direction
9. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
10. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
11. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound Redesign September 2012
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
Redesign
2012
12. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound Redesign September 2012
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
13. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound Redesign September 2012
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
14. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Sight & Sound Redesign September 2012
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
15. MagazinesBooks
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Sight & Sound Redesign September 2012
Art Director 2001 – present
Design and Art Direction
16. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Eye – Quarterly design magazine
Designer – 6 issues
Design and Art Direction
17. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Frieze
Designer
Design and Art Direction
18. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Magazines
Historic Scotland
Art Director – quarterly magazine
Design and Art Direction
19. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Crime Wave – 20 page covermount for TCM
Oscar Stories – 16 page covermount for TCM
Design and Art Direction
20. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Chaplin – 16 page covermount for Warner Bros
Black World – 32 page covermount for HMV
Design and Art Direction
21. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Advertorial
Variety
Multi-page promotions for Mid-Eastern TV companies and festivals
Design and Art Direction
22. Books
The Art Museum
Ingres
Géricault
Decorative Art 60’s
Industrial Design A-Z
Open Asia
Hitchcock
Magazines
Sight & Sound
Eye
Frieze
Historic Scotland
Advertorial
Sight & Sound
Variety
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Ephemera
Leaflets and booklets
Design and Art Direction