2. •You will need:
• 16 sections of galvanized steel pipe, threaded
• 12 sections of 5’ pipe
• 4 sections of 2’ pipe
• 12 unions (3 parts to each union), threaded
• At least 4 should be metal galvanized unions
• The rest can be PVC unions
• 8 corner fittings, also called side outlet elbows, threaded
• 4 couplings, threaded
• 4 2-inch metal pipe nipples, threaded
• At least 5 pieces of 8’ lumber ~2”x3”
• WD-40 pipe grease
• For the walls, DECIDE WHETHER YOU ARE ATTACHING THE BURLAP OR TARP WITH ZIP
TIES OR SHOWER RINGS. If zip ties, follow the steps below exactly. If non-detachable
shower rings, remember to slip on the shower rings onto the pipes BEFORE attaching
the ends of the pipes to fittings. Often, sukkah walls are made out of blue tarp. We have
blue tarp, but you should use burlap because it has a better aesthetic.
4. Bottom Square
• First, construct the bottom
square. Lay out 8 pieces of
5’ pipe on the ground and
roughly estimate a 10’x10’
square. Corners are circled
in red, the middle of two
straight pipes is indicated
with a yellow circle. Do
not connect anything
together yet.
5. Bottom Square
• Make sure that the
corner fittings
(special pipe pieces
on the corners) are
facing up.
6. Bottom Square
• Screw pipes into the corner
fittings. Remember, the top of
the corner fitting should be
facing up. When threading
metal to metal, it is good
practice to spray WD-40 pipe
grease on the threads. This
prevents rust, and you will
have a tighter fit resulting in
more reliable connections and
a straighter, more reliable
structure. Figure out if you are
attaching the walls with zip
ties/detachable rings or non-
detachable shower rings
NOW.
7. Bottom Square
• This piece is called a union
and it has three separate
parts. There are unions
made of white PVC plastic
and unions made of
galvanized iron. For the
bottom square, you can
definitely use PVC. Use the
same orientation for each
union you install (in this
photo, the threaded union
half is on the right, and the
other two pieces go together
on the left).
8. Bottom Square
• Make sure that the union
pieces are screwed onto
the pipe very tightly. Then
screw the ring (the middle
part of the union in the
picture) onto the threaded
union piece so that the
two pieces of pipe are
attached. Make sure that
nothing attached with
threads is moving!
• Test the structure by
picking up corners and see
if anything moves.
9. Bottom Square
• For the corners, liberally
use WD-40 on all the
threads and screw in the
tiny 2-inch pipe nipple into
the corner fitting. Then
screw on the METAL
threaded piece of the
union. This union should
not be PVC, which is why I
drew blue lines on the
picture.
• When this is finished, the
bottom square is done.
10. Top Square
• At the same time, construct
the top square. Lay out 8
pieces of 5’ pipe on the
ground and roughly estimate
a 10’x10’ square. Corners are
circled in red, the middle of
two straight pipes is indicated
with a yellow circle. The top
square does not have to be
constructed on top of the
bottom square, but should
ultimately be moved to
approximately this position.
11. Top Square
• Make sure that the corner
fittings (special pipe
pieces on the corners) are
facing down. When
threading metal to metal,
it is good practice to spray
WD-40 pipe grease on the
threads. This prevents
rust, and you will have a
tighter fit resulting in
more reliable connections
and a straighter, more
reliable structure.
12. Top Square
• Screw pipes into the
corner fittings.
Remember, the top of
the corner fitting
should be facing down.
Figure out if you are
attaching the walls
with zip
ties/detachable rings
or non-detachable
shower rings NOW.
13. Top Square
• This piece is called a union and it
has three separate parts. There are
unions made of white PVC plastic
and unions made of galvanized
iron. For the top square, it is best
to use metal but PVC can work. I
like the metal unions because they
are easier to tighten and unscrew.
Use the same orientation for each
union you install (in this photo, the
threaded union half is on the right,
and the other two union pieces go
together on the left).
14. Top Square
• Make sure that the union
pieces are screwed onto the
pipe very tightly. Then
screw the union ring onto
the threaded union piece so
that the two pieces of pipe
are attached. Make sure that
no threaded connections are
moving!
• Make sure nothing is moving
around. Lift up the top
square. Play with it gently to
test and make sure that
nothing is moving.
• When this is finished, the top
square is done.
16. Columns
• By now, you should have
something that looks like
this. The threads should
be tight.
• Test the structure by
picking up corners and
see if anything moves.
• If anything moves, re-
adjust the unions or pipe
member threads.
17. Columns
• Adjust the bottom and
top square positions
so that corners look
like this. The threads
should be tight.
19. Columns
• Attach the 2’
pipe sections
to 5’ pipe
sections with
couplings to
make 4 7’ pipe
sections
20. Columns
• Screw on the other 2 pieces
of the METAL unions to the
bottom of the columns. I
colored the unions blue to
show they should be metal.
You should have decided by
now whether you are
attaching the walls with zip
ties or shower rings.
22. Columns
• Another person screws 2
columns into the top corner
pieces (union side on the
bottom). Remember to apply
WD-40 to the threads!
23. Columns
• The structure
should like
look this,
except the
unions at the
bottom are
definitely
made of
metal.
• Pictures taken
from two
different
angles.
25. Columns
• Then someone else quickly screws in the
other 2 columns. Remember your WD-
40.
• The column+top square structure should
be able to hold itself up before screwing
it onto the base (not yet but soon!).
Make sure that the bottom of the
structure almost matches up with the
bottom square base. Feel free to apply
WD-40 to some bottom threaded
connections.
26. Columns
• One at a time, lift each column onto the base so that the two parts of the union
touch. Brush off the dirt and screw the unions together as quickly as possible
VERY TIGHTLY. While the structure is in this vulnerable state (of being partly on
the base and partly off the base), have people hold up the columns for temporary
support.
• Do not let the columns
deflect more than 1
inch. If any part of the
structure doesn’t stand
up, support three
members of the top
square with extra wood
or pipe duct-taped to
the unions.
27. Walls
• Now attach the walls
with zipties to the top
pipes, bottom pipes,
and one pipe column.
28. Roof
• Put the 8’ long
wooden supports on
top of the metal pipe
(this is a religious
issue). Attach them
with zip ties, string or
detachable shower
rings.
• Put the bamboo mats
on top of the wooden
supports. Attach the
mats with string and
weigh them down
with branches.
29. Decorations
• In 2015, there were cute little
doorway curtains. Feel free to
have fun.
• If confused, email
carenirgang@gmail.com but you
should be able to figure out a
solution yourself.
Editor's Notes
Footnote about walls:
To prevent mold/mildew forming on the burlap after sukkot, I tried to waterproof it with baking soda, alum and Epsom salt. I soaked the two 40” wide 30’ long burlap pieces in baking soda solution, let it mostly dry and then I soaked the burlap in potassium alum and Epson salt. This deposited a layer of insoluble salt on the canvas and on my bathtub. I did chemistry to figure out the proportions. I wanted to soak the burlap in soybean oil instead, but that takes three months to dry. Soybean oil has been proved by the FDA to not cause allergic reactions, look at the studies if you’re interested. I ended up safety pinning (rust-proof pins) a floral cotton corduroy material in between the two pieces of burlap. Plaid could have made a statement, but thin cotton is probably less heavy when wet than flannel.
