1. A blog: the Green way or the Highway
Ashleigh Grinham
G13G2099
1775 words

2. The Green
way
Or The
Highway
How many of you look at the label of products before you put them on your skin? How many of you
look but do not know if you should be concerned? Ask yourself: is it safe, is it environmentally
friendly? But how do you know the answer to these, if the product label itself does not tell you?
I am going to be focusing on cosmetics. There are two sub-categories of cosmetics: rinse-off and
leave-on. Rinse-off products are those that you generally use in the shower, e.g., shower gels; face
wash, soaps, etc. Leave-on products are substances like body lotion, face cream, aftershave, make
up and so on (Sanchez-Prado, Alvarez-Rivera, Pablo Lamas, Llompart, Lores & Garcia-Jares,
2013).
Figure 1: Some daily examples of Cosmetics

3. In a health24 article, by Olivia Rose-Innes(2010), it is stated that a majority of cosmetics had
chemicals that are known toxins, carcinogens (cancer causing chemical), allergens or hormone
disruptors. For example, in some baby products by Johnson's and Johnson's, there were
preservatives that are known carcinogens, namely formaldehyde and 1, 4 dioxane. In diaper creams,
there were fragrances that are endocrine disruptors (affect the hormone functioning- think of
oestrogen mostly- and thyroid functioning). Before some companies were forced to reformulate, and
note ‘some’, the idea the companies had was that the toxins were in such a small amount that they
should be safe. But the thought that these products are used almost every day and mixed with other
products (possible synergic effects) was forgotten, or possibly conveniently ignored. It is now thought
that an accumulative effect over the years is just as detrimental as having been exposed to a
dangerous amount at one time.
This is profoundly interesting and makes you wander if the
products you are using are in fact harming you.
Micro beads
Where do you find them? - In any form of scrub or even toothpaste. Rose-Innes (2014) states that,
these have now been banned in the Illinois state in USA and others are pushing for it. The big issues
with micro beads is that they are non-biodegradable (persist in the environment), they fit through our
filter systems and drains and end up collecting in the ocean – where it forms what is called a micro
plastic ‘soup’. The ‘soup’ is made up of good absorbents which only makes it more toxic. Small
organisms feast on this ‘soup’ because they cannot differentiate it from their normal healthy food. The
bigger creatures like fish, prawns and so on now eat those small organisms then birds, humans and
other animals feast on those fish and prawns. In the end, we have a food chain forming where the
‘soup’ affects humans by initiating digestive problems.
Figure 2: An example of a cosmetic that uses micro beads
According to Rose-Innes (2014), avoid exfoliating products with these chemicals: polyethylene,
polypropylene, polyethylene terephlatate and polymethyl methacrylate

4. Instead go for products with: nut shells, cocoa beans or sand.
Figure 3: Examples of cosmetics that use green chemistry principles
Formaldehyde residue in certain cosmetics.
The use of formaldehyde in cosmetics is to preserve. It is a known carcinogen. According to Lv, Sun
and Cheng (2015), there are two forms of sources of formaldehyde: free-formaldehyde and
formaldehyde releasers. In their investigation they tested for the free formaldehyde. There is a
regulatory health standard that the levels have to be below 0.05% (Lv, et.al, 2015). In the testing, the
formaldehyde was separated from the rest of the components with a modified version of HPLC to
make it quicker (this made even the investigation compliant with green chemistry principles). In their
results, they found that perfume and hand cleaner had the highest levels of
formaldehyde. Preservatives again are the enemy here.
Preservatives and fragrances in baby-care and child-care products
The concern that children and babies are not fully developed and their defence mechanisms (within
the body) are very poor, so they are more susceptible to attack from chemicals than adults (Sanchez -
Prado, Alvarez-Rivera, Pablo Lamas, Llompart, Lores & Garcia-Jares, 2013). There are certain types
of fragrances – suspected fragrance allergens(SAs) – which irritate the skin. According to
Sanchez-Prado and others (2013), in the European Union market the SAs have to be in the
ingredients label of product if the concentration is over 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in
rinse-off products. Unfortunately though, the strict policy of this regulation varies across the world.
There are a few preservatives in which they talk about, such as: parabens (used in over 22000
products and an endocrine disruptor), BHA (affects hormone system), TCS (affects thyroid
functioning and produces hazardous by-products from reacting with tap
water), bronidox and bronopol (form nitrosamines which are carcinogenic) and BHT (not genotoxic
but affects the toxicity of other compounds) (Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013). Some of the
aforementioned preservatives have maximum allowed concentrations to have safe cosmetic
products. The researchers tested a random selection of 47 cosmetic samples via a green
method (simple, fast and low levels of waste) (Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013). Out of the samples only

5. 12 had no SAs. The most common SAs were limonene, linalool and lilial (Sanchez-Prado et al.,
2013). The level of benzyl alcohol in body milk was found to be very close to the maximum regulated
level, the researchers stated that these levels needed to be lowered (Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013).
The product with the most SAs was soap – which is not that surprising as soap always smells nice
(Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013).
Out of the 47 samples, 26 samples contained at least one paraben. BHT and BHA were found
together in a product – not enough information is known now on the safety of this but it is considered
okay for now (Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013). Body lotions/creams and face creams had the highest
total level of parabens (about 0.5%, which is close to the legal limit) – this should be a concern as this
cosmetic product is being put on the biggest surface area compared to other cosmetics (Sanchez-
Prado, et al, 2013). There were a recorded 5 preservatives per sample – although in safe levels
there is the danger of synergic effects (reacting with each other). The researchers say that there is
more likelihood of paraben being in leave on products than rinse off (Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013).
Paraben is also found in diaper creams. Comparing the results with the labelling, the authors
concluded that 24 out of 28 leave on samples were correctly labelled (stated presence of SAs over
0.001%) and 15 out of 19 rinse-off samples were correctly labelled (stated presence of SAs over
0.01%)(Sanchez-Prado et al., 2013).
Hopefully now you have a sense of what the label says and how it is bad. But do you have a sense of
what is good on that label? No – well read on then.
A quote from Estee Lauder – “green chemistry is a way of reducing the impact of a product,
without necessarily changing the products itself”
If you have a mobile phone the following apps may help you: “Cosmetics design app” – for an
iphone, and “SkinDeep database app” http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/- for all phones. These are easy
to understand. All you have to do is download the app and then in the search tab put the product and
it will tell you the details you need (the details may be limited). If you are not sure on what product
you want you can just press the section of cosmetics you want, e.g. sun protection, and it will come
up with a whole section which you can then look at with more detail if you press them.
Alternatively, you can consult: “The Green
Chemist Consultancy” http://www.thegreenchemistconsultancy.com/. They provide a range of
purely natural skincare discovered by Dr Barbara Olioso. There is also a blog on her website which
talks about cosmetic alternatives, for example henna dye versus normal hair dye (which is ammonia
based). They come to the conclusion in her blog that henna dye is better because the dye sticks to
the hair rather than opens the hair cuticle, damaging the hair. They even discuss the best ways to
apply products.

6. Another website you may want to visit is: http://www.earthfirst.net.au/cosmetics-amp;-bodycare.html.
In this website, they list a cosmetic brand range that is cruelty free, human friendly or earth friendly.
The last option you have is to remember the list of good preservatives. There is debate on whether
all natural is better than synthetic. According to lotionsecrets.com, naturally preserved cosmetics only
last for about 3 months and then they go off, which increases waste. Some have come to the
conclusion that a mix of natural and synthetic preservatives is the best option.
Safe natural preservatives
o Benzoin powder
o Cinnamon
o Citric acid powder from crystallised fruit sugar
o Geranium essential oil
o Golden seal root
o Grapefruit seed extract
o Green tea extract
o Green tea leaf powder
o Rosemary oil extract
o Rosemary extract powder
These are natural preservatives but safe only under a certain concentration:
o Potassium sorbate (0.1%-0.5%)
o Alpha Tocopherol/Vit E T-50 mixed tocopherol oil
All of the above preservatives were taken from lotionsecrets.com (2015)
Safe synthetic preservatives
o Benzylalcohol-DHA
o Caprylic acid combo
o Caprylyl glycol EHG
o EDTA
The above were taken from MakingCosmetics.com (2015)

7. Some cosmetic brands are being proactive on this topic in today’s world. For example, Sanex now
has a deodorant range which is called Zero%, according to the label it has 0% alcohol and 0%
parabens. There is a range called Good Earth – it has a small amount of synthetic preservatives with
the rest being natural and it is in a recycled container, again according to the packaging.
Figure 4: Sanex Zero products found in the supermarkets
According to International Flavours & Fragrances Inc. (IFF), there is a developing green principled
manufacturing process for several popular flora and woody fragrances. They have made single step
reactions where waste is reduced and reduced amount raw materials are required. A plastic bead
which is biodegradable, made from POLYIFF, is embedded with a scent which gives products its
smell.
A synthetic aldehyde – helional - mirrors the hay-like scent
of sassafras – this has saved 110 000 sassafras trees
annually (IFF, 2015)

8. Reference List
o MakingCosmetics.com, accessed 12/03/2015
o Lotionsecrets.com, accessed 12/03/2015
o IFRA.org, accessed 12/03/2015
o O. Rose-Innes, Health24, 2010, What price pretty?
http://www.health24.com/Lifestyle/Environmental-health/21st-century-life/What-price-pretty-
20120721
o O. Rose-Innes, Health 24, 2014, Facial Scrubs Choking the Ocean.
http://www.health24.com/Lifestyle/Environmental-health/Health-tips/Teeny-tiny-scary-plastics-
20130724.
o C. Lv, J. Sun and H. Cheng, Anal. Methods, 2015, Determination of formaldehyde residue in
cosmetics by short-column high performance liquid chromatography with mass spectrometric
confirmation, 7, 1630.
o L. Sanchez-Prado, G. Alvarez-Rivera, J. Pablo Lamos, M. Llompart, M. Lores, and C. Garcia-
Jares, Anal. Methods, 2013, Content of suspected allergens and preservatives in marketed
baby and child care products, 5, 416.