1. DO FACTORS IN THE FASHION RETAIL INDUSTRY
INFLUENCE THE PURCHASE DECISION MAKING
PROCESS?
MN6P00: MANAGEMENT INVESTIGATION AND DISSERTATION
BETTINA COLEMAN-SCHOELS
A TOMPKINS
MAY 2016

2. 1
ABSTRACT
This paper explores the influence of synesthesia, social class, self-image
perception and cultural symbols on the consumer’s purchase decision making
process within the UK fashion retail industry. The existing research in this field,
undertaken in the 20th Century, is now challenged by a contemporary consumer
landscape providing scope for an investigation into whether the existing data
remains relevant today.
A review of the literature including Hofstede’s cultural framework (1991, 2001 and
2010), consumer decision making (Akhter, Reardon and Andrews, 1987) and self-
image perception (Grubb and Grathwohl, 1967; Edward and Bruce, 1971;
Rosenberg, 1979; Sirgy, 1982; Mehta, 1999) provide the underpinning themes for
102 structured questionnaires. Each of which, were distributed through a
combination of an online data collection platform and in person.
The conclusions drawn from this study show no drastic change in consumer
behaviour from the existing literature with regards to attaining social status. The
research regarding self-image communication confirms the suggestion of
purchase decision making as a means of self-communication. Lastly, consumers
demonstrated negative attitudes towards the inclusion of cultural symbols but
showed no adverse effect on their decision making process as a result.
The final section of this report pinpoints the potential to explore the precise factors
which influence the consumer when in the store environment as well as
acknowledging the time and resource limitations.
KEY WORDS
Cultural symbols, consumer behaviour, self-image perception, purchase decision
making process, factors, synesthesia, social class, in-store environment.

3. 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

4. 3
Foremost, I would like to thank the teaching staff
of London Metropolitan University for their
academic support during this research.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.0 INTRODUCTION p. 7
1.1 CONTEXT p. 7
1.2 RATIONALE p. 8
1.3 RESEARCH AIMS + OBJECTIVES p. 8
2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW p. 9
2.1 FASHION IN SOCIETY p. 10
2.2 CULTURAL SYMBOLS p. 11
2.3 CONSUMER DECISION MAKING p. 11
2.4 SELF IMAGE PERCEPTION p. 13
3.0 METHODOLOGY p. 15
3.1 RESEARCH QUESTIONS p. 15
3.2 METHODOLOGICAL APPROACH p. 15
3.3 DATA COLLECTION METHODS p. 17
3.4 SAMPLE p. 18
3.5 QUESTIONNAIRE PILOT p. 19
3.6 ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS p. 19
4.0 FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION p. 20

5. 4
4.1 WHAT MOTIVATIONAL FACTORS ARE INFLUENTIAL TO THE
CONSUMER WHEN MAKING A PURCHASE DECISION?
p. 21
4.2 WHAT IN-STORE FACTORS ARE INFLUENTIAL TO THE
CONSUMER WHEN MAKING A PURCHASE DECISION?
p. 26
4.3 HOW DOES THE CONSUMER RESPOND TO THE INCLUSION OF
CULTURAL SYMBOLS IN THE FASHION RETAIL INDUSTRY?
p. 31
5.0 CONCLUSION p. 34
5.1 LIMITATIONS p. 36
5.2 RECOMMENDATIONS p. 38
6.0 REFERENCES p. 40
7.0 APPENDICES p. 40
7.1 APPENDIX FIG. 1 QUESTIONNAIRE

6. 5
LIST OF TABLES
1. CONSUMER DECISION MAKING PROCESS p. 12
2. SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION p. 14
3. RESEARCH QUESTIONS p. 15
4. RESEARCH DEMOGRAPHICS p. 20
5. ATTAINING SOCIAL STATUS p. 22
6. SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION IN RELATION TO PURCHASE
DECISION MAKING
p. 24
7. PARTICIPANT RESPONSIVENESS TO FACTORS OF
SYNESTHESIA
p. 27
8. HIGH STREET STORE ANALYSIS p. 29
9. LUXURY STORE ANALYSIS p. 29

7. 6
10. AN EXPLORATION INTO THE INCLUSION OF CULTURAL
SYMBOLS
p. 31
11. THE INFLUENCE OF THE INCLUSION OF CULTURAL
SYMBOLS ON PURCHASE DECISION MAKING
p. 32
LIST OF FIGURES
1. ENHANCING SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION p. 25

8. 7
Dissertation to satisfy the BA (Hons) Fashion Marketing and Business Management degree of
London Metropolitan University.
1.0 INTRODUCTION
1.1 CONTEXT
The UK fashion industry is estimated to contribute £27bn to the British
economy (Oxford Economics, 2014) with online retailing showing current and

9. 8
further predicted growth (Mintel, 2015). As an industry which has a definitive
presence in many sectors, it can be victim to an agglomeration of external
influences - both positive and negative. The developments in garment construction
and computer aided design, for example, allow retailers to enhance the speed at
which they innovate (Jeffery and Evans, 2010). Whilst the conscious mind may
consider this development as a means to satisfy consumer demand, it may have
a converse impact industry wide and increase competition between retailers.
The contemporary fashion retail landscape has created a high pressure
environment for retailers to operate in, demanding innovation and a rapid response
to consumer demand (Jeffery and Evans, 2010). Perhaps for this reason, there is
extensive research exploring the consumer purchase decision making process
(Schiffman, Hanuk and Hansen, 2011; Miller and Washington, 2014; Zhang et al,
2014 and Karmarkar, Shiv and Knutson, 2015) and consumer self-image
perception in relation to purchasing decisions (Grubb and Grathwohl, 1967;
Edward and Bruce, 1971; Rosenberg, 1979; Sirgy, 1982; Mehta, 1999). Whilst the
importance of understanding consumer psychology is somewhat accepted, there
is a gap in the literature exploring how specific triggers may be more influential
than others with very little mention of the influence of cultural symbols.
On these grounds, this report will use Hofstede’s cultural framework (1991, 2001
and 2010) to contribute towards an exploration into what extent consumers are
affected by the inclusion of cultural symbols when making fashion purchases.
Through data collection, this report aims to contribute to wider knowledge in
developing the understanding of alternative factors, beyond cultural symbols,
which also influence the consumer’s purchase decision making process.
1.2 RATIONALE
In order to create advances in broader understanding, it becomes
necessary to apply the existing literature to contemporary scenarios in a way that
establishes if the literature remains accurate. By adopting such an approach,
academics and the public have a broad set of relevant knowledge. The literature

10. 9
offers an explanation of how the consumer reaches their final decision when the
opinion of family and friends, and to some extent broader society, is taken into
consideration (Miller and Washington, 2014). It is also commonly understood that
the way in which the consumer chooses to translate their self-perception will
subconsciously be influential in their decision making process (Grubb and
Grathwohl, 1967).
While these primal factors have been explored over many decades, it is noted that
much of the research was undertaken toward the end of the 20th Century. The
question now arises if the data is still valid and reliable to which end, this report
aims to explore the given concepts in relation to the contemporary fashion retail
consumer. There is also little investigation into how current 21st Century,
controversial topics may also be influential in the process. This report will aim to
contribute towards wider knowledge by developing an understanding into whether
the inclusion of cultural symbols is influential in the consumer decision making
process.
1.3 RESEARCH AIMS + OBJECTIVES
Through field exploration, this paper aims to accomplish the
aforementioned by examining how variables may influence the assumeddiscourse
of purchase decision making. This paper produces a deductive, ontological study
within the United Kingdom to acknowledge to what extent consumers are affected
by different factors. While it is understood that a global perspective would provide
a broader scope for this report, the time and resource limitations prevent this from
being a realistic option.
The factors used in this investigation consider the existing literature as well as
areas of potential academic development under the umbrella of consumer
psychology. It becomes possible to develop a stronger understanding of the
consumer’s decision making process and acknowledge if there are any underlying
themes which may not have initially be considered.

11. 10
In summary, this paper aims to satisfy the gap in knowledge by explaining to what
extent factors affect the consumer purchase decision making process.
To this end, the research objectives to satisfy the aim are as follows:
● Analyse the influential factors in the purchase decision making process
within the fashion retail industry
● Outline which of the given factors are considered most influential
● Explore consumer response to the inclusion of cultural symbols in the
fashion retail industry
2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW
The following chapter of this report explores the literature drawing on
relevant key findings. It is paramount that the context in which fashion is applied
throughout this paper is broadly understood and section 2.1 explores the concept
accordingly. In the same way, section 2.2 explores the concept of culture using
Hofstede (1991, 2001 and 2010) as the underpinning framework for the presented
definition. The latter sections of this chapter will explore consumer psychology in
the fields of self-image perception and consumer decision making.
2.1 FASHION IN SOCIETY
Fashion may be described as a social construct, formed of meanings and
on-going communication (Paulicelli and Clark, 2009). It could be implied that the
term fashion is to mean the discourse of dressing and engaging in such an activity
as an act of communicating the self-image perception. When applying this to
broader society, it is noted that social class is no longer playing a determinate role

12. 11
in the groups to which individuals will associate themselves (Maffesoli, 1996).
Whereas fashion was once a way of confirming social status, it now provides an
opportunity to communicate with others from a different social class.
Literature proposes that this societal shift, labelled neo-tribalism (Bennet, 1999),
provides individuals with the ability to create their identity through socially fluid,
unstable roles and relationships (Bennet, 1999). As the youth’s stylistic
preferences have shifted in recent years, academics and industry professionals
may look to neo-tribalism to provide the explanation (Maffesoli, 1996). Neo-
tribalism has encouraged the formation of new social collectives - ones that give
the opportunity to enact a particular lifestyle as well as a style of dressing (Parsons
and Maclaran, 2009). Although theoretically the conceptof neo-tribalism allows the
fashion retail environment to become moreopenly accessibleto consumers,it may
have potential negative implications also. Hogg and Banister explain that similarly
to consumers forming tribes based on their shared interests and likes, they may
also do so based on the feeling of distaste (2001).
Placing this knowledge parallel to the contemporary fashion retail industry, it can
be understood that consumers mayno longer exclusively target the retailers which
were once deemed appropriate in accordance to their economic background and
vice versa. As recent as 2015, retail giant Amazon launched a haute couture
fashion store seeking the support of Fashion Design Council India (FRPT, 2015).
When considering this in line with the increase of grocery stores becoming
successful players in the fashion retail industry (Mintel, 2015), a shift in the
consumer and the fashion retail panorama is noted.
2.2 CULTURAL SYMBOLS
As previously mentioned, an objective of this study is to explore consumer
responses to cultural symbols in the fashion retail industry therefore, the term
cultural symbols must be defined. The first stage of identifying cultural symbols
and values is understanding what constitutes as a culture. Hofstede’s explanation
that the concept of culture refers to a “collective programming of the mind” (2001,

13. 12
p. 9) is in any case still accurate today but may face some criticism. National
cultures have become more permeable, inevitably as a result of widespread
globalisation, meaning elements of cultures become globally accessible (Nakata,
2009) rather than be relevant to a single group or society. This paper uses the term
culture to signify the socially constructedelements of a society or nation which hold
societal value, which results in both academic outlooks.
When breaking down the concept of culture, there are distinct segments, all of
which hold their own significance. Using Hofstede’s Cultural Onion (1991), there is
a clear progression from tangible to intangible aspects. As suggested, the core of
one's culture is characterised by the shared values and norms of the given
individuals (Hofstede, 1991). This then progresses through to the outermost layer
of a culture - symbols. The symbols section of Hofstede’s framework classifies
dress, clothing and lifestyle (2001) which are the most applicable elements to this
study and the data collected. This layer and the given connotations provide an
understanding of what the term cultural symbols is to signify throughout this study.
2.3 CONSUMER DECISION MAKING
Moving on from the work of Hofstede (1991, 2001 and 2010), the following
chapter explores the concept of purchase decision making. The process can be
understood as three independent cognitive actions: input, process and output
(Schiffman, Kanuk and Hansen, 2011) whereby each action possesses its own
influential factors. See Table 1 for a specific breakdown of the influential factors
relevant to each of these actions. There are some factors however which may be
influential in any case. The human phenomena synesthesia (Madzharov, Block
and Morrin, 2015) has enabled fashion retailers to target consumers through their
senses rather than conscious advertising and marketing. However, due to the
covert nature of this approach, it may be difficult to gage effectiveness and
consumer responsiveness.

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IN
P
U
T
● Information provided by the brand e.g. price, advertising,
marketing through emails and telephone calls and
branding
● Sociological influences e.g. family, friends, social class
and subcultural memberships
● Acknowledging if the fit and style of the item are
appropriate
● Online reviews
PROCESS ● Subconscious motives
● Personality traits
● Demographic profile of the consumer
● Brand and product perceptions
● Product evaluation process (price vs quality)
● Synesthesia
O
U
T
P
U
T
● Displaying lucrative purchasing behaviour or not
● Post purchase evaluation
Table 1. Consumer Decision Making Process (adapted fromSchiffman, Kanukand Hansen, 2011; Miller and
Washington, 2014; Zhang et al, 2014 and Karmarkar, Shiv and Knutson, 2015).
Consumers demonstrate a desire for consumption patterns which are unchanging
(Peterson, Kushwaha and Kumar, 2015). If the fashion retailer can provide this
through a consistentprice point, a sense of comfortand overall familiarity it is more
likely that the consumer will return (Peterson, Kushwaha and Kumar, 2015).
For the most part purchase decision making is considered to be a heuristic model
of human behaviour (Dillard and Pfau, 2002 and Zhang et al, 2014). After the
consumer has considered one - or more - “informational cues”, they are able to
develop a judgment (Dillard and Pfau, 2002, p. 196). In this way consumer
purchase decision making is arguably a learnt process.
Some academics explore consumer purchase behaviour on a more sociological,
as well as psychological, ground. Thompson and Haytko explore the ideology that

15. 14
consumer purchase decisions have the ability to create a social bond between
individuals (1997). Considering this in line with Paulicelli and Clarke’s definition of
fashion, it may be suggested that the purchase decision process is an enabling
factor that allows consumers to fulfil their needs and wants within society
(Peterson, Kushwaha and Kumar, 2015). This suggests that the consumer’s
decision to purchase goes beyond their attraction to the product or brand and that
the process stage may face scrutiny from the consumer’s subconscious desires of
the individual.
2.4 SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION
As the previous chapter outlines the purchase decision making process,
the following chapter explores how this may relate to the consumer’s self-image
perception. Theory in this field has been subject to much sociological and
psychological review with academics exploring many different concepts. Centrally
the literature suggests there is a link between a consumer’s purchasing behaviour
and their perception of self (Edward and Bruce, 1971; Sirgy, 1982 and Mehta,
1999). Reinforcing this is the suggestion that purchased goods can be used as a
symbolic tool for communicating with others (Grubb and Grathwohl, 1967).
“... self-image comes down to the totality of the consumers thoughts with
reference to themselves…”
Consumers who demonstrate a high level of self-image / brand image
convergence show a higher level of interest in purchasing brands than those with
low levels of convergence (Mehta, 1999). Further studies suggest consumers are
more likely to approach products that not only confirm, but enhance their self-
image and avoid those that have no affect or diminish their self-image (Mehta,
1999). It can be concluded that a basic understanding of self-image comes down
to the totality of the consumer’s thoughts with reference to themselves as an object
(Rosenberg, 1979). However, self-image is vulnerable to subjective thoughts of
one's self rather than an objective evaluation (Mehta, 1999). As noticed, the

16. 15
literature in this field is partially outdated, coming from the latter part of the 20th
Century, recognising the need for a development in current research.
Academics have broken down the self-image concept into separate identities that
are interpreted, understood, desired and communicated by the consumer
(Okonkwo, 2007; Schiffman, Kanuk and Hansen, 2011).
ACTUAL / TRUE SELF The consumer’s perception of themselves
IDEAL SELF
The desired image the consumer would like to see for
themselves
SOCIAL SELF How consumers feel others perceive them
IDEAL SOCIAL SELF
The desired image the consumer would like others to
see perceive them as
EXPECTED SELF
How consumers expect themselves to be at a
specified time
OUGHT-TO-SELF
The manner in which a consumer believes they should
behave in line with the duties they believe they are
responsible for
Table 2. Self-image Perception (adapted fromSchiffman, Kanukand Hansen, 2011 and Okonkw o, 2007).
Whilst exploring the ideology of purchase decisions as a means to access an
alternative self-image, the criticisms must be acknowledged. Although academics
suggest a consumer’s true purchasing power has a deeper ability in enabling them
to pursue other identities and engage with different tribes (Mehta, 1999), the
purchased goods themselves are incredibly important. In order for a purchased
good to serve as a communicative device, it must have a recognised amount of
credibility within the existing or desired tribe (Grubb and Grathwohl, 1967). In this
way, literature refers to “tribes” as the subcultural groups which form in society.
Further review in this field discovered that some purchase decisions in relation to
self-image perception may not be outwardly communicative. A 1997 study
highlights that a self-created image may emerge as a means of expressing the

17. 16
consumer’s central character traits to themselves (Thompson and Haytko). This
could suggest that consumer’s purchase decision making process is a means to
communicate with themselves rather than others.
3.0 METHODOLOGY
3.1 RESEARCH QUESTIONS
When outlining the research questions for this study, it is imperative to
consider that the research objectives derived from the literature will have a direct
impact on the methodological approach adopted (Oakshot, 2012). The gaps in
current knowledge have been identified and noted as an area for development. By
outlining the following questions, the investigative phase of this report has clear
direction in exploring consumer decision making in the fashion retail industry
(Dawson, 2014).
The research questions for this study are as follows:
1.
What motivational factors are influential to the consumer’s purchase
decision making process?
2.
What in-store factors are influential to the consumer’s purchase decision
making process?
3.
How does the consumer respond to the inclusion of cultural symbols in the
fashion retail industry?
Table 3. Research Questions.
3.2 METHODOLOGICAL APPROACH
This report adopts an objective epistemological standpoint; an approach
which assumes humanknowledge is objective and can be found through derivable

18. 17
reasoning (Dawson, 2014). Whilst the positivist paradigm provides a solid basis to
discover the measure in which consumer purchasing behaviour changes - if it is to
change at all - post-positivism is more accepting of the nature of the given study.
Positivism assumes that the researcher will remain entirely separate from the
object (Porta and Keating, 2008) meaning there is no researcher-bias.
Post-positivism however acknowledges that some phenomena may not be so
strictly bound to certainty, rather probability (Porta and Keating, 2008). Although
this does not imply an outright shift from the positivist school of thought to create
a separate entity, post-positivism aligns the theoretical perspective with modern
scientific developments (Porta and Keating, 2008). It is understood that the shift
from positivism to post-positivism is accepting of uncertainty and the possibility of
development. The ability to critique data also allows for a more thorough analysis
rather than to first and foremost accept the data as entirely true.
Accepting criticism, some literature regard positivist methods of research as
restricting due to their black and white focus on data interpretation (Dawson,2014).
However, the nature of this report requires such a focus in order to obtain a
definitive understanding of the measure in which the consumer purchase decision
making process is influenced after exposure to given factors. In this way, an
interpretivist approach would be ineffective and inappropriate as conscious
subjective opinions are not considered. Furthermore, a post-positive standpoint
minimises the risk of ambiguity (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015). As in this
case of this study, the researcher is in large part independent from the participant,
the aforementioned can be reinforced.
Methodology can be explained as the framework that assists problem solving
(Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015). It explores the ethical considerations as
well as the positive and negative implications of a research investigation (Dawson,
2014). As the epistemological approach of this study favours hard methods of data
collection (Porta and Keating, 2008), the most appropriate methodological
approach is survey research. This provides unambiguous data which follows more
concrete regulations (Porta and Keating, 2008).

19. 18
The nature of this study is deductive (Porta and Keating, 2008) as the approach to
empirical research begins with an investigation in the area of interest. The data
has then been further analysed to identify patterns and variations. As the initial
research is grounded in existing literature, it is important to ensure the variables
are mutually intelligible as this directly impacts validity (Porta and Keating, 2008).
3.3 DATA COLLECTION METHODS
The questionnaires used to gather data focussed on the discourse of
consumer purchase decision making by drawing relevant themes from the
literature. Part two of the questionnaire explored the participant's response to
culture using Hofstede’s (1991, 2001 and 2010) studies as an underpinning
framework with a focus on the key vocabulary used. In the samefashion, part three
of the questionnaire explored the concept of fashion purchases being used a way
to create social bonds between individuals (Thompson and Haytko, 1997). The
latter part of the questionnaire was focused on the participant’s perception of self,
deriving from the work of Edward and Bruce, (1971), Sirgy (1982) and Mehta
(1999). Because of this, the questionnaire was able to establish if a link between
the participant’s self-image and their purchase decisions existed and to what end.
Once this had been established, it was possible to identify if the literature remains
relevant today.
Although it is noted that the epistemological and theoretical approaches to
research do not necessarily restrict methods for data collection (Dawson, 2014),
the expected method for a positivist approach is deemed the most appropriate in
this case. The questionnaire format was fully structured and consist of mostly
closed ended questions with the exception of two - both of which provided the
participant with the opportunity to specify the item they were referring to - see
appendix fig. 1.
The aim of this report is to discover if a link exists between the consumer’s
purchase decision making process and their exposure to different factors,

20. 19
therefore a cross-sectional questionnaire is an appropriate tool for data collection
(Dawson, 2014). The foundation of cross-sectional questionnaires focuses on
attitudes and behaviours at a specific point in time (Dawson, 2014) - for this study
the decision making process is to be the specific point in time. Successive
independent sample surveys are not considered as appropriate, neither are
longitudinal studies. Their focus on variance over time prevents the most relevant
data to be retrieved for this study (Dawson, 2014).
The distribution of said questionnaires was through online social research
platforms as well as in person. As literature suggests, the way in which a
questionnaire is administered will undeniably be influenced by the chosen sample
- see section 3.3. In order for the research to remain objective, and as a result of
the practical implications of this study, the questionnaire was completed
independently without assistance from the researcher. Theory suggests
researcher involvement may skew the validity of the data collected, encouraging
subconscious bias (Braun and Clark, 2006) by removing this obstacle the validity
of the study is improved.
Descriptive and inferential statistical data analyses were used to understand the
primary quantitative data gathered (Dawson, 2014). A combination of the two
techniques allows variability and averages to be explored as well as allowing the
data discovered to be related to the entire sample or generalised (Dawson, 2014).
3.4 SAMPLE
The population for the research is recognised as broad due to few profiling
factors omitting participants. Nonetheless, the scale and time frame of this study
are restricting and influential in the samplingprocess (Mcneil and Chapman, 2005).
The sample was selected using a non-probability sampling technique. However it
is recognised that some individuals possess a higher chance of being selected
from the sampling population than others (Bryman and Bell, 2011). As has become
the norm in recent years for research into consumer behaviour, the questionnaire

21. 20
will be administered to participants using convenience sampling (Bryman and Bell,
2011). Although there are some concerns with regards to the generalisability of
data gathered through convenience sampling, it often provides a higher response
rate for the researcher (Bryman and Bell, 2011). In order to minimise the risk of
sample-bias, sampling techniques were extended to include snowball sampling.
3.5 QUESTIONNAIRE PILOT
In order to identify any potential limitations of the questionnaire issued, a
pilot was trialled on five students of London Metropolitan University. It was brought
to attention that some language may be considered too technical for participants
who were not from a fashion background. The sample for this study, as previously
highlighted, is not bound to only those who work or study in the field of fashion
and therefore lead to some vocabulary changes as appropriate.
Nonetheless, the overall response was positive with all participants able to
complete all questions. Having conducted a pilot survey, the drawbacks of the
questionnaire were eliminated before formal research was conducted (Mcneil and
Chapman, 2005). By undertaking a pilot of the data collection method, it can be
argued that the final data gathered is more reliable and represents a higher level
of validity.
3.6 ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS
In order to satisfy the ethical requirements, an informed consent form was
issued to all participants to be completed before completing the administered
questionnaire. Furthermore, all participants were over the age of eighteen and face
no mental or physical challenges. All participants have anonymity and the option
to withdraw at any point without further consequence.
Due to the field of the research, there are no questions of a particularly sensitive
nature which could cause disturbance to participants.

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4.0 FINDINGS + DISCUSSION
The data gathered for this research was analysed using inferential and
descriptive statistical data analysis methods with the intent to provide responses
for the outlined research questions listed below.
➔ What motivational factors are influential to the consumer’s purchase
decision making process?
➔ What in-store factors are influential to the consumer’s purchase decision
making process?
➔ How does the consumer respond to the inclusion of cultural symbols in the
fashion retail industry?
The demographic details for the study are shown in the below table.
MALE FEMALE 18-25 26-50 50+
24 78 72 28 2
Table 4. Research Demographics.
The participant spread for this research study leaned heavily toward two profiling
characteristics. The participants were predominantly female and aged 18-25.
When assessing the generalisability of the data gathered, a hindering implication
of this may be the dominating younger profile of participants.
The preceding chapters of this study will explore the data gathered in response to
each research question. In this way the data will be analysed and discussed
allowing each chapter to conclude with a comparison to existing theory. The scale
for each question is parallel to the Likert Scale provided to participants. Whereby

23. 22
1 = Strongly Agree, 2 = Agree, 3 = Disagree and 4 = Strongly Disagree the relevant
numerical value was assigned to each response. In one case, the scale 1 = Yes,
2 = No and 3 = I Do Not Notice is assigned, however this is acknowledged prior to
discussion.
4.1 WHAT MOTIVATIONAL FACTORS ARE INFLUENTIAL TO THE
CONSUMER’S PURCHASE DECISION MAKING PROCESS? - 40
Considering the first of the research questions outlined for this study, the
following chapter analyses the motivational factors behind the consumer’s
purchase decision making process. The initial part of this chapter explores the
concept of social class as a motivational factor before moving on to analyse the
link between purchase decision making and self-image perception.
SOCIAL CLASS
The participants demonstrated strong attitudes toward the relationship
between social class and fashion purchases;84% believed social class to have an
explicit impact on the fashion items the consumerpurchases. Previous exploration
into this field suggests that consumerpurchasedecisions have the ability to create
social bonds between individuals (Thompson and Haytko, 1997). Initially, this
suggests that the consumer may look to purchase luxury items, or items of a given
calibre, in order to create a bond with those of a higher social class using the act
of purchasing as a way to engage with them.
Fundamentally, the data may be interpreted in two ways. First of all, it could be
suggested that fashion purchases are a means to enhance, or affirm, the social
standing of the consumer. Secondly, the data may be interpreted to suggest that
the emphatic motivation of the consumer is create or build social relationships.
Nonetheless, it may also be considered that the purpose of building said social
relationships ultimately has the outcome of enhancing their social status.

24. 23
The questionnaire did not rigorously question the economic background of each
participant, yet it is noted that the sample demographic was in large part aged 18-
25 and 45% of the entire sample remain in education. It is not unreasonable to
suggest that a large portion of the sample will have a moderately low income. An
effect on their social standing and a strong feeling towards social class may stem
from this factor as the participant may either desire a heightened social standing
or has experienced little exposure to greater wealth.
MEAN (μ) S.D (σ)
34. MORE LUXURIOUS PURCHASES CAN
ENHANCE THE WAY I SEE MYSELF.
2.3 0.87
35. I WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS
WHICH ARE MORE LUXURIOUS THAN THE
PRODUCTS I USUALLY PURCHASE.
2.1 0.89
36. DIFFERENT SOCIAL CLASS GROUPS WILL
PURCHASE A CERTAIN LEVEL OF LUXURY.
1.8 0.82
Table 5. Attaining Social Status.
The above table details the mean response and standard deviation when
consumers were asked a series of social class related questions. The standard
deviation for all three of these questions is narrow suggesting that participants’
responses were relatively homogenous and there was an overall consensus that
social class is directly influential on the consumer’s fashion purchases.
Additionally, the mean provided supports the proposition that the motivational
intent behind consumer purchase decision making is to attain social standing and
relationships. Question 34 aimed to recognise if fashion purchases can enhance
the consumer’s self-perception while question 35 explicitly asked participants of
their desire to purchase more luxurious goods. Analysing both responses parallel
to one and other allowed the link to be identified. The data gathered from question
34 and 35 could suggest that the participants have a desire to enhance the way
they see themselves and that more luxurious purchases provide a way to do this.

25. 24
As shown by the narrow point of standard deviation, participants felt similarly
towards both questions establishing a link in their line of thought. The point of
standard deviation highlights that the majority of participants responded between
1-3 with not much weighting around 4 (strongly disagree).
It is also considered that the participant’s desire to attain a specific social standing
may not be a conscious decision, rather something stemming from their
interpersonal desires. The 37% of participants which fell outside of the expected
range of response may not be emphatically aware of their motivational factors; in
the case of this study, social class. Therefore when asked explicitly their response
may not conclude as entirely realistic. Furthermore, the desire to attain a
heightened social standing may be an area of sensitivity for the participant leading
to them feeling defensive - again leading them to provide an answer which is not
entirely reflective of the true reasoning behind their purchase decision making.
From the data set gathered, it could be suggested that the motivational variables
in this instance are the esteem desires of the consumer in terms of their social
position. When referring to the academic research, the data gathered in this study
confirms the suggestion that purchase decision making is directly related to the
current or desired, social class of the consumer (Schiffman, Kanuk and Hansen,
2011).
SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION
When exploring the concept of purchase decision making as a heuristic
process to enhance the consumer’s self-image perception, the data gathered
suggests that purchase decision making is linked to the consumer’s transactional
self-image desires.
The research found that consumers value the opinions of their friends more than
twice over the opinion of their family. When referring to the existing literature it is
noticed that individuals may respect the opinion of their peers as gaining their

26. 25
acceptance could create a pathway to alternative tribes / social groups which are
considered as desirable by the individual (Maffesoli, 1996).
MEAN (μ) S.D (σ)
30. I USE FASHION PURCHASES TO
COMMUNICATE THE WAY I SEE MYSELF TO
OTHERS.
2.1 0.87
33. PEOPLE WILL CREATE A PERCEPTION
ABOUT ME BASED ON MY FASHION
PURCHASES.
2.0 0.81
37. I AM MORE INCLINED TO PURCHASE
FASHION PRODUCTS WHICH ARE REGARDED
AS CREDIBLE.
2.2 0.84
38. I USE FASHION PRODUCTS AS A WAY TO
ENGAGE WITH PEOPLE IN A DIFFERENT
SOCIAL GROUP TO MYSELF.
2.9 0.68
Table 6. Self-image Perception in Relation to Purchase Decision Making.
The data gathered explores the consumer’s attitude to fashion purchases being
used to communicate to subcultural groups and social collectives previously
described as tribes (Maffesoli, 1996). Question 30, 33 and 37 conclude that in most
instances the participant believes fashion purchases allow them to communicate
their self-image as well as allowing others to create a perception of them. In this
way, it may be interpreted that the consumer’s process stage of purchase decision
making will be influenced, either consciously or subconsciously. As the consumer
wishes to elevate themselves to a higher state of self, their expectations of the
ideal-self along with the opinion of their friends towards products and brands will
aid their decision making process.
Furthermore, data suggests participants are inclined to purchase products which
are regarded as credible - as shown in question 37. The aim of this question was
to establish how the participant responded to the societal view of fashion products,
regardless of if they were bought from a high street or luxury store, with the
keyword being “credible”. The data gathered from this question confirms the

27. 26
suggestions made in existing literature that the consumer’s motive when making a
purchase is to communicate their self-image. This may be conducted in a way that
allows the consumer to be accepted by alternative social groups creating new
social bonds (Thompson and Haytko, 1997). Arguably, the joining of new social
groups will affirm or heighten the consumer’s self-image perception. The mean
response of 2.2 and a standard deviation of 0.84 suggestthat there was a relatively
homogenous feeling felt by the sample towards this concept.
The suggestion derived from this data is that there is link between the self-image
perception of the consumerand purchasing goods which allow transcendence into
a higher self-image identity. In relation to existing theory, it may be understood that
this transition is from the consumer’s actual self into their ideal self (Schiffman,
Hanuk and Hansen, 2011).
A link between the investigated factors is shown in the format below:
Fig 1. Enhancing Self-image Perception.
61% of the sample agreed that purchasing a product more luxurious than usual
has the capacity to enhance their self-image perception. Suggesting whereby less

28. 27
luxurious goods affirm the consumer’s actual self-image, more luxurious goods
allow them to attain or experience the ideal-self.
The conscious stream of thought suggests the data gathered implies the consumer
has the ability to communicate their self-image to others. However, when asked
explicitly, question 38 challenges this concept of communication altogether. The
mean response of 2.9 suggests that participants were closer to disagreeing with
the conceptof purchasing fashion products as a way to engage with different social
groups. This can be interpreted to imply two outcomes. Firstly, that the purchase
of fashion goods is comprehensively as a means of self-communicationrather than
expression to broader society supporting the research of Thompson and Haytko
(1997). Secondly, the act of purchasing is as a means of communicating with
others is a subconscious process and in this way unmeasurable.
4. 2 WHAT IN-STORE FACTORS ARE INFLUENTIAL TO THE
CONSUMER’S PURCHASE DECISION MAKING PROCESS?
The following chapter provides analysis on two key findings in relation to
research question two. The fashion retailer's use of synesthesia provides an
understanding of an intangible influence on the purchasedecision making process.
Alternatively, the latter part of this chapter explores the influence of the physical
store environment.
SYNESTHESIA
The data collected points towards a manner of factors throughout the input,
process and output (Schiffman, Kanuk and Hansen, 2011) stages of the consumer
decision making process. However, questions 26 and 28 aim to explicitly
acknowledge if the retailer’s attempts to trigger consumers’senses are successful.
A concept defined by literature as synesthesia (Madzharov, Block and Morrin,
2015). The scale of response for this question differs from the previous whereby 1
= Yes, 2 = No and 3 = I do not notice.

29. 28
The overwhelming response of participants was that they are in most part aware
of the audio contributions, visual appearance and textures which are used by
fashion retailers to create the store environment. Each are directly targeted at the
consumers senses to heighten their experience within the store and ultimately
encourage the act of purchasing.
MEAN (μ) S.D (σ)
26. I HAVE ENJOYED THE MUSIC IN A STORE
BEFORE.
1.2 0.52
27. THE APPEARANCE OF THE STORE
INTERIOR AFFECTS MY DECISION TO ENTER.
1.2 0.51
28. I HAVE BEEN IN A STORE WHERE
DIFFERENT TEXTURES HAVE BEEN USED.
1.4 0.
Table 7. Participant Responsiveness to Factors of Synesthesia
The mean response for each question is below 1.5 suggesting consumers
awareness of sensory triggers is high. Furthermore, the standard deviation for
each question is narrow at < 1. In this way it is fair to suggest that the majority of
participants felt similarly allowing an overall assumption to be made.
From this data, it could be suggested that existing literature on synesthesia
(Madzharov, Block and Morrin, 2015) is somewhat accurate in relation to the
participant sample. Therefore when generalised, the concept of synesthesia also
remains relevant to the broader fashion retail industry. It may also be proposed
that the elements of synesthesia are a conscious (Akhter, Reardon and Andrews,
1987) influential factor to the consumer in their decision making process despite
initially being considered as subconscious
As the consumer’s senses are triggered through either sight, touch or the capacity
to hear, the retailer is able to encourage the consumer in an anthropological way.
An example of this may be the speed of the music playing within a store calming

30. 29
the consumer and encouraging them to browse for a prolonged period of time.
Here the music or lack thereof, has the ability to influence the consumer by
exposing them to a broader selection of the items the retailer is offering.
Similarly, the lighting within a store or fashion retail environment may be adapted
to seasonal changes. Adjusting the lighting within a store may impactthe perceived
attractiveness by the consumer. A store which is well lit in the summer yet feels
welcoming in the winter may encourage consumers to purchase the fashion items
appropriate for the present season.
Overall, the data establishes that the concept of synesthesia (Madzharov, Block
and Morrin, 2015), is applicable in today’s retail environment. The existing
research in this field is comparable to the data gathered in this study, whereby this
study is supportive of the concept.
PHYSICAL STORE ENVIRONMENT
The second part of this chapter acknowledges the influence of the physical
store environment. The participants were asked to detail any stores in which they
have felt uncomfortable in order to establish the effect the store environment may
have.
The data can be interpreted to understand the emotional impact of the store
environment on the consumer,the operative word here being the consumerfeeling
“uncomfortable”. Establishing if the store environment has the capacity to cause a
personal reaction in the consumer allows the research to identify the extent to
which consumers are aware, or influenced by, their shopping environment; the
environment in which they undertake the decision making process. Although the
specific contributions of the store are not detailed, it is presumed this would include
the sales staff present and their approach, the temperature of the store and the
standard of housekeeping maintained.

31. 30
Whilst the number of participant responses was relatively equal between luxury
and high street - 53% mentioned high street stores while 41% mentioned luxury -
the number of individual examples given for high street stores was three times as
many as luxury stores. At this point it is taken into consideration that many of the
participants shop high street stores more frequently. Naturally, this provides the
explanation that this statistic is a relative connection and may not imply that high
street stores offer a less desirable environment for consumers overall. Simply, they
have had greater exposure to high street stores and are able to draw from a greater
number of high street retail experiences. It is also fair to suggest that a large
number of participants may not have an increased amount of disposable income
as a result of their occupation. This may lead them to purchase goods in line with
their financial status which is likely to be fashion items purchased from the high
street.
The tables below indicate the stores which were most frequently mentioned in the
data - with one participant demonstrating strong negative feelings towards
Topshop. The profiling characteristics of the sample may have had an impact on
the results as it is noticed the most mentioned store is a womenswear fashion
retailer. Arguably, this may come as a result of the predominantly female sample
rather than the store itself. Nonetheless, River Island, H&M and Zara cater to both
the men's and womenswear markets suggesting a degree of validity in the data.
5 Topshop
4 River Island
3 H&M
2 Zara
1 Forever 21, Primark, Claire’s Accessories, Mango, New Look, Gone
Retro, American Apparel, House of Fraser, Foot Locker, Lush
Table 8. High Street Store Analysis.
2 Selfridges

32. 31
1 Liberty, The Corner, Chanel, Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Harrods,
Mulberry, Dover Street Market
1 “Expensive designer stores”
1 “Generally luxury stores”
Table 9. Luxury Store Analysis.
All of the luxury stores detailed in the data cater to the men’s and womenswear
markets. Although this increases the generalisability of the data, again the
occupational background of many participants creates the suggestion that when
visiting the stores, the intention may not have been to purchase but rather to
browse.
Interestingly, some participants had provided examples which were not initially
expected from the research. Their statements of generalisation are offered below:
➔ No air conditioning
➔ A store environment which is too busy
➔ Not offering above a size 16
In line with the previous proposition, each of the statements suggests a negative
emotion has been triggered in the consumer. It is noted that one participant had
felt uncomfortable due to the size range offered in store. As this is a controversial
issue in today’s fashion retail environment, it is surprising that retailers have not
adjusted their approach as necessary. Nonetheless, the statement reinforces the
argument that retailers have the capacity to influence the consumer's’ attitudes
and emotions. As the outlined retailers have caused a negative feeling in the
consumer, it could be suggested this will directly impact their purchase decision
making process and attitudes towards the retailer or brand.
As the specific factors of the store environment are not outlined in this study, this
could be an area for future research. The data concludes that the retail
environment is influential through factors such as synesthesia and the physical

33. 32
store environment having the capacity to cause negative feelings towards the
retailer or brand. Although it is assumed fashion retailers endeavour to provide
strong customer service and an enjoyable store environment, future research may
be able to establish precisely which factors are dampening the consumer's
experience.
4.3 HOW DOES THE CONSUMER RESPOND TO THE INCLUSION OF
CULTURAL SYMBOLS IN THE FASHION RETAIL INDUSTRY?
The last chapter of analysis aims to establish consumer attitudes towards
the inclusion of cultural symbols in the fashion retail industry and to what extent
these influence the consumer’s purchase decision making process. The research
question relevant to this chapter is research question 3.
By identifying what the participant understood as a cultural symbol, it was feasible
to analyse their response and attitude. The participants of the study outlined eight
cultures in particular, and the cultural symbols relevant, which they believed to be
present in the fashion retail industry. It was gathered from the data that African,
Indian and Japanese cultures occurred most frequently
When assessing the response rate, less than 25% of the sample had provided
examples to the question “Are there any cultures where the cultural symbols
relevant have been included in products offered by fashion retailers / luxury fashion
brands more so than others?”. A low response rate as this may imply the
participant sample is not aware of such symbols in the fashion retail industry
altogether. Further reinforcing this is the 50% of consumers who agreed to only
considering the aesthetic appeal of a product when deciding to purchase.
7 African
4 Indian + Japanese
3 Asian
2 Christianity, Chinese + the brand’s own heritage

34. 33
1 Islamic Art + Arab
Table 10 . An Exploration into The Inclusion of Cultural Symbols.
Despite the narrow scope of awareness from participants, the data suggests a
defined negative consumer attitude towards the inclusion of cultural symbols.
When asked question 10, the participants mean response was 2.7 which leans
toward the disagree end of the Likert Scale provided (3+4). In this way it is initially
understood that consumers, when made aware, are disapproving of the inclusion
of cultural symbols. Assuming the natural discourse of purchase decision making,
it would be presumed that the feeling of distaste towards the given factor would
negatively impact the consumer’s decision to purchase.
MEAN (μ) S.D (σ)
10. I AM ATTRACTED TO PRODUCTS WHICH
INCLUDE CULTURAL SYMBOLS.
2.7 0.78
13. I AM LESS LIKELY TO PURCHASE A
PRODUCT IF THERE ARE CULTURAL
SYMBOLS INCLUDED IN ITS DESIGN.
2.7 0.94
14. CELEBRITIES ENCOURAGE THE USE OF
CULTURAL SYMBOLS.
2.3 0.82
15. I AM INCLINED TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS
WHICH ARE SIMILAR TO WHAT CELEBRITIES
HAVE BEEN SEEN WEARING.
2.7 0.81
Table 11. The Influence of Cultural Symbols on The Participant’s Purchase Decision Making Process..
However, when the consumer was asked if they were less likely to purchase a
product which included cultural symbols, the aforementioned is challenged. With a
mean response of 2.7 and a narrow standard deviation of 0.94, the participant
sample demonstrated that the inclusion of cultural symbols in a fashion item may
not alter their decision to purchase. From the data gathered in question 10 it was
highlighted that the consumer felt unfavourably towards the inclusion of cultural
symbols leading them to be less likely to purchase, yet, this is not the case.

35. 34
Question 14 sees the sample’s mean response come the closest to agreement. It
is acknowledged that there was a relatively homogenous attitude towards the
ability of celebrities to encourage the use of cultural symbols and theoretically,
other
trends or fads. While it is connoted that celebrities encompass this ability, the
participant responses in turn were somewhat unfavourable. When the participants
were asked if they are likely to engage in trends similar to celebrities the mean
response was 2.7. This implies that consumers are not more likely to purchase
fashion items which are worn by celebrities - at least not consciously.
Whereas it may have been suggested that the consumer’s unaltered decision to
purchase a product including cultural symbols was a result of following celebrity
trends, question 15 provides data suggesting otherwise. The participants distaste
for products presented on celebrities may stem from the item becoming over
exposed; losing appeal in the eyes of the consumer. Alternatively, the consumer
may have preconceptions of the celebrity which are then by means of association
applied to the fashion item causing the feeling of distaste. The data collected from
these questions may provide scope for future research into the effectiveness of
celebrity endorsement and gifting.
Two participants had brought light to the concept that brands and retailers may
choose to capitalise on their own brand heritage as an instrument to heighten
brand awareness. One detailed response explains fashion house Dolce and
Gabbana’s approach to incorporating classic Italian design through various
seasonal collections while another mentions the classic fashion cities and the style
expectations which lie within each one. Although this is not a topic which was
intended to be explored, it provides scope for future research and may provide an
explanation for how cultural symbols come to a halt at high street retailers after
trickling down the fashion retail ladder.

36. 35
Ultimately it can be concluded that the participant sample exhibited negative
attitudes towards the inclusion of cultural symbols in the fashion retail industry and
were able to identify specific cultures in which this had been based. In any case,
when this is discussed in the context of the consumer purchase decision making
process it is acknowledged that the cultural symbols themselves are not influential
in the consumer’s decision to purchase. Alternatively, factors such as the
overexposure of celebrity style may cause consumers to opt for an alternative
fashion item.
5.0 CONCLUSION
The following, and final, chapter of this study highlights the key findings beginning
with the motivational factors which influence the purchase decision making
process. There will be a brief summary in relation to synesthesia and the in-store
environment as well as discussing the explored participant response to the
inclusion of cultural symbols.
SOCIAL CLASS
The investigation into motivational factors underpinning the purchase
decision making process pointed toward two key influencers which were social
class and self-image perception.
The data gathered confirms the existing literature, suggesting that the purchase
decision making process is influenced by the consumer’s desire to attain, or
maintain, a certain social standing. When explicitly asked, 84% of the participant
sample agreed to social class directly influencing the purchases a consumer
makes. Overall it can be understood that the consumer identifies achieving a
specific social status through the fashion purchases that are made. When
considering this in line with their purchase decision making process (Schiffman,

37. 36
Kanuk and Hansen, 2011), the process stage of analysis may influenced to
encourage the purchase of more luxurious goods.
SELF-IMAGE PERCEPTION
Secondly, when exploring self-image perception and the purchasedecision
making process synonymously the data highlighted a behavioural shift in the
consumer. Whereas the broader knowledge in this field suggests purchasing is as
a means to communicate with others (Grubb and Grathwohl, 1967 and Mehta,
1999), the concept of self-communication is presented by the data.
It is previously acknowledged that Thompson and Haytko explore the concept of
self-communicationthrough purchasedecision making (1997), however it could be
questioned if the research was still to be relevant today. The data gathered can
confirm this suggesting that purchase decision making affirms the self-image
perception and provides consumers the opportunity to transcend into a more
desirable state of self. Furthermore, the purchase decision making process serves
as a tool of self-communication allowing the consumer to outwardly express the
central character traits.
SYNESTHESIA
The data gathered confirms the existing literature supporting the concept
of synesthesia. Retailers are able to influence the decision making process by
targeting the consumer’s sensory triggers (Madzharov, Block and Morrin, 2015) -
initially recognised as a subconscious process. However, the data supports some
suggestion into the consumer’s engagement with sensory triggers as a conscious
thought process. As the participants had responded to the questions underpinned
by this theme, it demonstrated they are aware. If the process of synesthesia was
subconscious, arguably the participant may not have provided answers and the
responsiveness would not have been established.
IN STORE ENVIRONMENT

38. 37
Participants demonstrated negative attitudes towards a collection of high
street and luxury stores. Assuming this is as a result of the service they received
or the physical store environment, there is some suggestion to contemporary
fashion retailers that the in-store consumer experience requires some
development. The natural discourse of purchase decision making assumes that a
consumer is less likely to make a repeat purchase if they have developed a
negative attitude.
CULTURAL SYMBOLS
The least influential factor to purchase decision making in this study is the
inclusion of cultural symbols. Although the participant sample demonstrated
negative attitudes towards the inclusion of cultural symbols,the data highlights that
the feeling of distaste is not strong enough to discourage purchases.Despite being
a controversial topic, it is a consideration for fashion retailers that the inclusion of
cultural symbols is not so influential in the ultimate purchase decision making
process..
5.1 LIMITATIONS
The most distinct limitation to this study is the demographic profile of the
participant sample. The gender, age and occupational imbalance undoubtedly
hinder the generalisability of the data. A precautionary method could have been to
adopt an alternative approach to sampling. Although it is recognised that it is
impossible to create a sample which is truly representative of the population
(Dawson, 2014), the sample relative to this study unquestionably limited the
generalisability.
The following points highlight further limitations:

39. 38
● The vocabulary used in the questionnaire
● The length of the questionnaire
● The pilot questionnaire was constructed by five students all studying
fashion.
5.2 RECOMMENDATIONS
Lastly, it is understood that the data gathered for this study recognises
further areas of academic development. As the previous chapters illustrate, there
is data to suggest the relationship between social class and perceived self-image
are interconnected. It may be interesting to explore this topic establishing how
exactly the process of purchase decision making encourages this shift in self-
image for the consumer. While the research has acknowledged the shift may be
present, a qualitative study in the consumer’s emotions during this phase would
allow the broader academic understanding to be deepened.
When applying the data gathered to the fashion retail industry, there are some
suggestions that can be put forward to retail stores. Firstly, the data summarised,
highlights that consumers are aware of their retail surroundings by which sensory
triggers are influential. It is learnt that the shopping experience, along with their
purchase decision making process, will be influenced by audio, visual cues and
the use of texture within the store environment. Whilst fashion retailers generally
value the importance of visual merchandising, the concept of synesthesia can be
taken much further. With the current developments in technology there is scope
for fashion retailers to create a more virtual, interactive retail environment. By
combining aspects of technology with the consumer’s malleable sensory nature,
the retailer is able to be innovative whilst still targeting their consumer on the most
fundamental level.

40. 39
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