1. “One can’t ignore the allure of
unleashing their inner Indiana Jones
in a destination as evocative and
charming as Oman”
enveloped
by the beauty of
wahiba sands
Sitting as a passenger in the front of the Toyota
Land Cruiser 4WD, much loved by the locals of Oman,
the car bounces and sprays sand haphazardly while
I hold onto the sides and chuckle. The chuckle is for
remembering to take a travel sickness pill before
this journey, which began 3 hours ago in Muscat, the
capital city of the Sultanate of Oman.
One can’t ignore the allure of unleashing their
inner Indiana Jones in a destination as evocative and
charming as Oman. Hence, my excursion into the
wilderness of the A’Sharqiya region, better known
as ‘Wahiba Sands’ to western travellers. En-route
I marvel at the engineering feats and vision of His
Majesty Sultan Qaboos who managed to connect the
remote Interior via tarmac roads which swerve around
rugged hills and through narrow mountain passes. I
was further more impressed by the driving skills of our
guide/driver once we hit the delicate off-road paths
which for centuries was mainly used by roaming goats
and donkeys.
A pit stop to refuel the vehicle and our stomachs
was made in Nizwa, the ancient capital of Oman. Once
home to artists, intellectuals and Sufi poets, it is now
the most visited city after Muscat due to its prominent
12th century fort with a circular tower – a first for its
time. History buffs will enjoy the defence structure
and strategy used to attack such as the hot date syrup
which was poured down various holes.
Arriving early on a Friday morning also produced
another perk for this Indiana Jones wannabe: the
weekly cattle market. Bedouins and locals rush
in before the midday sun heats up to haggle and
purchase a prized mountain goat, camel or cow. It’s
a serious affair with animals being closely inspected
before sealing the deal. Omani mountain goats are
quite a lucrative market, fetching up to 300OMR
($900AUD) per goat.
Once we had purchased some khalas dates and
halwa from Al-Saifi’s store for later tonight at the camp,
we hit the road again. Feeling elated as a sense of
getting there was nearing, I looked outside the window
to observe. It was fascinating to notice how the
landscape was changing as we were nearing the soft
orange target area: Arabian Oryx Desert Camp.
The A’Sharqiya region is notably more conservative
than Muscat. Women are scarcely seen and when
spotted more covered up. Burqa masks are also worn
by the ladies, signifying tribal traditions and more of
a Bedouin culture. Some of the best hand-woven rugs
can be bought in this area as weaving is still a popular
practice by men and women.
As we bump, jump and zig zag through the desert
in time for our scheduled desert sunset I notice
roaming camels - including two baby camels. The
camels had a goal of their own too: to reach home
before sunset, which is what they instinctively do. They
look at us haughtily as we overtake, windows open
with cameras snapping while gulping sand.
We zoom pass the more luxurious Desert Nights
camp and notice a giant Arabian Oryx staring at us
from a distance – not a real one, rather the one used
as the mascot of our camp. The camp was our first
choice due to its more authentic Arabian charm and
the fact that it was run a by a local Bedouin was an
added bonus.
Dumping our bags, we ascend the giant 150m
high sand dune as the sunlight was shifting casting
shadows in the sand as a subtle breeze stirred. We
arrived just in time for one of Mother Nature’s best
shows: sunset in the Arabian Desert, starring no one
bar nature. Rays of light poked through the parting
clouds as the evening sky was transformed from
shades of orange and pink to purple then blue. Silence
then enveloped as we closed our eyes to treasure this
For bespoke, butler-serviced camping options in areas outside
the norm visit Hud Hud Travels website:
www.hudhudtravels.com/
For flights to Muscat visit Emirates/Qantas, Etihad, Qatar
Airways or Oman Air.
PlacestoStay:
Desert Nights Camp is the only deluxe camp in the area
to have an alcohol license and offers pitch tent rooms that
include private patios and a/c. Camp offers camel rides, quad
bikes and sand boards for extracurricular activity outside of
sand bashing and desert sunsets.
Visit: omanhotels.com/desertnightscamp/
Arabian Oryx Desert Camp is a mid-range camp famed for its
authentic surrounds and Arabian chill out vibe in the evening:
common sitting spaces indoor/outdoor, camp fire and Bedouin
folklore. BYO alcohol to consume in non-public areas.
Visit: www.oryx-camp.com/index.html
Sama Al Wasil Desert Camp is the one for those looking
at stripped back, rustic “home-stay” like experience with
local Bedouins. Further in the desert than the other camps
in Wahiba Sands it has recently been updated to include
electricity and hot water.
Visit: www.desertpalmoman.com/aboutus.html