The Story Shoes Tell: Exploring the Symbolic Meaning of Footwear in Township Youth Culture
1. Chapter 1- Introduction and overview of the study
Shoes play a significant role in social environments. I argue that shoes are
more than an object we use daily and take for granted and more than
something trivial. Shoes are probably one of the best visual indicators and
means to tell the story of people, culture and identity. June Swann (in
Newman 2006: 75), a shoe historian, explains that from shoes alone, “one
can trace the rise and fall of prosperity based on the height of a heel or be
transported back to ancient battlefields by the indenting of a toe; to measure
social change based on the thickness of a sole.” Therefore, this study aims to
show that shoes tell a story. Moreover, in Vosloorus, shoes express group
affiliation, ideology and represent youth culture, identity and have subcultural
and symbolic significance.
“Yes, only a shoe, but if it provides escape…if only for a few minutes,
it brings a bit of happiness to someone, well, then, perhaps, it is
something more than a shoe.” Manolo Blahnik (in Newman 2006: 77)
Consequently, shoes define generations and subcultures as well as identities
and the path to our souls (excuse the pun). Shoes date back thousands of
years, and a defining feature is the instinct of fashion; that shoes must not
only be practical, but unique as well. Shoes are theatre. They turn us into
someone else, performance and roles in society. Shoes have marked
historical moments in our history; man wasn’t first on the moon rather his
shoes were! Shoes and feet are sexual, erotic; the feet erotic organs and the
shoes their sexual covers, as stated by William A. Rossi “the shoe is the erotic
foot’s pimp and procurer” (Newman, 2006:84).
I argue that in every colour, shape or form, every shoe is significant. It is more
than a mere accessory. When combined with a wearer, it becomes a visual
commentator on individual interests and social conditions. Furthermore, it
represents a certain time, a specific person and a social fashion trend and
thus goes beyond the material and is almost spiritual.
2. Doing fieldwork for this study has revealed that township life is filled with
symbolism and vivid images and with a unique and vibrant culture of its own.
Exploring the topic of shoes in Vosloorus has not only wet my appetite for
more, but revealed a world of endless possibility. A simple item such as a
shoe becomes a tool of expression, as well as means of belonging, each with
unique, but inspired take on its meaning. For young people in the townships,
life is inspired and booming, creativity alive and well, the shoe an artistic
medium you carry, or in this case ‘wear’ with you, an extension of who you are
and how you wish to be perceived. From ‘Pantsula’ to ‘Evolokxion’, I will
explore the role footwear and shoes play in youth culture amongst young men
in the townships.
“Feet are spiritual. They enable man to stand up. They free his hands.
Now, he can look at the stars.” Olga Berluti (in Newman 2006: 90)
1.1 Research Question
What is the symbolic meaning and social significance of shoes among male
township youth in Vosloorus?
1.1.1 Sub questions
What kind of shoes do they wear?
How do shoes play a role in defining and distinguishing
individuals and/or specific groups?
What is the social status linked to different shoes?
What is the relation of shoes to identity in the township?
1.2 Aim of study
The aim of the study is to understand the role of footwear amongst township
youth. In this instance I will focus on men aged between 18 and 25, a life
stage called ‘Bahlankana (Sotho) Izinziswa (Zulu)’ (Brookes 2001: ??). I
3. explore and uncover the role of shoes in township identity and group affiliation
and to discover the meaning behind shoes and the role they plays in everyday
life.
1.3 Overview of methodology
This study is ethnographical with observational research, the reason for this,
as elaborated by Creswell (1998: 59), is that ethnography is “a description
and interpretation of a cultural or social group system…examining observable
and learned patterns of behaviour.” Furthermore, Henning (2005: 43) explains
that critical ethnographies “inquire into culture…to establish…whether
hegemonic practises are prevalent,” therefore best suited for the objectives of
this study. It will be qualitative, non-comparative and participatory research
project. It entailed spending time amongst black males in Vosloorus and
recording and participating in their daily interactions, gathering data on the
use and significance of shoes within their subcultural groups.
My methods included site based fieldwork, participant observations and
interviews, as well as the use of fieldwork dairies. I used field notes and used
a tape recorder to gather and record responses of informants. All these, as
mentioned by Creswell (1998) are part of an ethnography, used to “develop a
portrait and establish ‘cultural rules’ of the culture-sharing group.” It is only by
combining these elements that we can create a “holistic portrait” of the cultural
group (Creswell 1998: 60). Dawson (2006:18) states that “ethnographies
describe and interpret cultural behaviour… by becoming immersed into the
social group intended to be studied… participating in its activities, by
observing social phenomena, taking notes, conducting interviews and
recording response.” Furthermore, “qualitative research explores attitudes,
behaviour and experiences” (Creswell 1998: 23). With all these elements, I
will be able to “render a thick descriptive…. of facts transcribed from field
notes” [and recorded responses] that “capture the everyday practises… rituals
and action” and can only be achieved through “many different methods of
data collection” as mentioned above (Henning 2005: 43)