How to Make & Earn from Hand Made Liquid Soap - A Guide for Making your own Soap www.scribd.com/doc/239851214

1. By
Agwu IYKE Samson
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HOW TO MAKE AND EARN
FROM HAND MADE
LIQUID SOAP-Step-by-
step Guide

2. Washing soaps are very important in the maintenance of
personal hygiene and the general cleanliness of the
environment.
The demand for liquid soaps will continue to increase as far as
washing of plates in the kitchen, clothes and scrubbing of floor
etc. at home and in the factory is concern.
To make liquid soap at home and generate cool money, you
need the following:
Capital Needed to Make Liquid Soap: You can make liquid soap
with at least N20, 000. N10, 000 for raw materials and N10, 000
for equipment but this amount depends on the scale at which
you can produce. If you want to make liquid soap on a large
scale you will need more capital, registration with relevant
government agency like NAFDAC of Nigeria (National
Administration for Food And Drugs Control), and buy expensive
equipment.
Production Equipment Needed to Make Liquid Soap:
 Steel tank or plastic drum
 Wooden stirrer or blending tank/mixer fitted with stirrer if
you can afford it.
 Weighing scale
 Hydrometer/thermometer
 Hand gloves
 Packaging materials (plastic containers with measurement
in cl or litre).

3.  Labels for branding
Raw Materials Needed to Make Liquid Soap:
 Groundnut oil or palm kernel oil or coconut oil
 Caustic soda
 Sodium silicate (P84)
 Dye/colorant
 Fragrance (to remove odor)
 Diorites to be added when producing anti-septic soap.
Safety Equipment Needed to Make Liquid Soap: Before you
start to make liquid soap, please put on the following safety
gadgets on, to prevent chemical’s accidents, like chemical
coming in contact with the eyes and body.
 Eye Google
 Hand gloves
 Safety shoes
Production Process Required to Make Liquid
Soap
The Liquid Soap Recipe - Get 366g of coconut oil, then 1424g of
Potassium Hydroxide, and 1204g of pure water. These are the
recipe for the liquid soap we are going to discuss about in this
procedure. Once you have them down, its time to get started
with the process of making the liquid soap.

4. In this method, we are going to use a double boiler system, that
is using two pots for the boiler, one will be smaller than the
other, the handler on the top pot hold it suspended over the
bottom one such that when the top pot is in on it, the water
level will be over the top pot. See picture below.
Then add the Potassium Hydroxide on the pot on top. When you
add the potassium hydroxide it will sound like it is going to
explode or boil over, even though the water on the bottom pot
does not bubble at all and doesn’t even heat as much as the
sodium hydroxide so don’t worry, it’s the normal process.
When mixing water and potassium hydroxide together and when
mixing the soap there will seems to be a very caustic steam that
comes from the mixture. When making liquid soap, always wear
long sleeves and gloves otherwise your skin begins to burn due
to the heat and the chemical released.

5. a. Pre-heat the water in the bottom of your double boiler.
b. Heat and mix your oils and fats like you normally would for
CP, using the temperatures of 160 degree for the oils and
140 degree for the potassium/water mixture, they will get
to these temperatures very fast so be ready with your hot
water in the bottom of your double boiler when you start.
See picture below, notice the thermometer inside the pot.
Try to bring your soap to trace, which even with a stick blender
is pretty long. It will go though few stages before it hardens into
your paste. It will also keep trying to separate, but keep mixing
it until it is VERY VERY thick like thick custard or maybe a
meringue.
Tip:
Try to keep your soap as close to 160 degree as you can, if you
go over 160 your soap will boil up over the top of the pot, but

6. much less than 160 and your soap will take forever to trace. So
let it be within 160 degree.
Look at the sample below: This is not trace, just a good
imitation. It has to get much thicker than this. If you stopped at
this point your soap would separate and that wouldn’t be good.
How about this on the picture below? Nope, this isn’t it either,
keep going, its not yet at the point we want.

7. I’m not sure you can tell by this picture, but at some point your
soap may look sort of grainy and like it is separating. When that
happens, just keep going it is normal in a case like this. Keep
going, don’t mind it.
Look at the picture below! Now this is a stage you want you
have to look out for. This is what your soap looks like just before
it starts to puff up and out of the pot.
What happens is that the soap gets too hot (you notice that it is
in the double boiler) and it doubles in size or begin to rise.
If you see this start happening get your pot into your sink and let
it cool off. Have a sprayer in your sink and use it on cold and
spray the outside of the pot. As long as the pot was too hot, you
could not stir it down. However using a sprayer to cool the side
of the pot, immediately made soap collapse back to its original
size. Be aware this may happen and get yourself prepared for it.
When the soap comes down to its puffy stage it collapsed into a
solid mass. This is sort of what it looked like, but this is a bit

8. further in the process, after it has been heating for a while, but
it’s just similar with the one on the picture below.
Put the soap into top of your double boiler and bring the heat
up. It will make a very stiff paste, don’t bother to try and mix
it, it is already far too thick. Check your mixture twice for
separation 20mins apart. You have to pry the paste away from
the bottom of the pot. If it has separated there will be a clear
liquid on the bottom. If you find this you will have it mix up
again.
Keep the water in the double boiler boiling for 3hours. Make
sure that your pot is covered the idea is to get it as hot as
possible. After about 2 hours it will start to turn translucent, if
not keep cooking it at a very fast boil until it does. Cook for
1hour after the translucent stage.
It has been cooked for about 4hours before and it made a
beautiful clear batch of soap like the one below.

9. Time for Dilution:
Scrap the paste into a pot of 4820ml of water for dilution. Break
it up a bit to get into manageable sized chunks. Look into the
pot below, you will see it is broken into manageable pieces.
That’s what I mean.
Now, slowly heat up your water/soap mixture to a medium heat
and then turn it off and leave it overnight. Note that your
heating has to be slowly this time.
Make sure the pot is covered. If your soap is high in soft oils
(which this recipe is all about) it will get a skin on it if it isn’t

10. covered. Once you add the borax it will fix this but until that
time, keep the lid covered all of the time.
If you have lots of coconut in your soap it will completely melt
overnight. If it is high in soft oils (again which this recipe is) you
will have to reheat it in the morning to get rid of the last of the
chunks. In the morning heat up your mixture to just warm and
melt any left over chunks, again making sure you keep the lid on
until it warms up.
The soap doesn’t have to be very hot this time. Add your
neutralizer, use borax neutralizer: 5g borax and 112g water.
Heat up the waste and borax mixture in the microwave (stove or
any cooker) until the borax completely melts.
This is harder than it sounds. Borax will not melt until it is very
hot and it will become solid again as soon as it cools so you have
to heat it up just before you add it to your soap. When the
borax will look like when melted, in the picture below

11. When you add your fragrance to the soap it may cloud the soap
again, but the soap will clear again as it cools. The picture
below shows as it’s getting clear again after it cools.
Sulfated Castor:
This recipe should give you a very clear gel like liquid soap, but
to get it totally clear you have to make a soap that is at 0%
superfat. You are a soap maker so you know that soap made
with no superfatting will leave your skin quite dry. The only
thing that will superfat this soap and not make it opaque is
sulfated castor oil. It is kind of hard to get, and really if you
don’t care that your soap is transparent, you will have to hunt
for the sulfated castor to get what we are talking about.
Add 70g of sulfated if you are using it, and fragrance and
colorant. If you get the mixture too hot, you may want to wait
for the solution to cool down a bit add the fragrance, otherwise
it will vapourize. Let it cool and voila, liquid soap.

12. It seems complicated at first, but once you do it a few times it
becomes much clearer. Remember what CP seemed like when
we first started. What you have below is what about the final
product would look like.
Liquid soap is water soluble, when you mix water and oil, the oil
will turn the water white and eventually migrate out and float
on top of the water. This means that if you want to superfat any
oils left over it will first make your soap cloudy, eventually end
up as a layer of white on top of your soap.
Some people may not mind a cloudy soap and may even want
the look of a superfatted liquid soap, which brings us to the next
point. If you want to superfat your liquid soap, you have to use
either turkey red oil (sulfated castor) which is water soluble, or
add polysorbate 20 to your oils to make them water soluble.
You now make liquid soap at a 0% superfat. When you add
fragrance or essential oils that close to the line, your soap may
turn cloudy due to the oil the in the fragrance. This will not
happen if you make your soap with water soluble fragrance, but
water based fragraces are just regular fragrances with
polysorbate 20 in them, so you might as well add it yourself.
Here is the final product, you can add 1 drop of green food
coloring to the whole batch and your fragrance. By the next day

13. it was crystal clear, and smelled great. This is the resultant
liquid soap from this process!
Finding Your Market- Selling Your Liquid
Soap
Now after making your liquid soap It will be majorly used for
washing dishes and other kitchen utensils, for washing of
clothes, scrubbing of floor, furniture and etc.
To sell your soap you will need to approach retailers in your
area and market place, and also some wholesalers if you are
producing in large quantity.
Negotiate the price which you are willing to offer it but note
that this should be a price that can enable or create penetration
strategy into the market, (i.e. a little percentage lower to the
price of your competitors) to enable end users to buy more as it
is new to the market.
Make sure you have a good packaging for your product so as to
attract buyers at the top level. This packaging can also create

14. room for skimming strategy (another type of pioneer pricing
strategy and the opposite of the penetration strategy).
You can also create a survey for you to know how well
customers are reacting to your product.
Things You Need To Do To Avoid “Pit-Fall” And To Be
Able To Maximize Your Profits:
Market Testing: After the processing/production stage the next
stage is to test the product in a real life setting (marketing) to
determine whether the market will accept it or not. In order to
have a successful test, you place on the product a brand name,
packaging and a marketing program and attempts to determine
geographic area chosen to represent the intended market and
the result got, generalized for the entire market. Although the
cost of conducting market tests is high (it is also optional), it is
preferable where the risk of product failure is high.
Modification Stage: the results of market test may reveal that
certain changes need to be carried out on or more attributes of
the product ir in the marketing mix before it is finally launched
into the market. For example, the result of market test may
suggest need to modify the distribution plan to include more
retail outlets.
Commercialization: This is the stage where the product is
finally launched into the market.
You must make commercialization decision on:
 When (time of launch)
 Where (geographical strategy)

15.  How (introductory market strategy) and to
 Whom (target market prospects).
Agwu iyke Samson (A.k.a. Phabulouz)
A writer/blogger and an internet marketer whose aim is to
set up a platform for unemployed and employed Nigerians
to share ideas and disseminate information on how to
make wealth and self reliance means.
This motive now gave birth to the blog address
www.wealthmeans.blogspot.com which currently, He’s the
moderator and owner of the blog.
To every readers of this e-book, you can help to promote
the blog by supplying relevant information on various
ways of generating wealth to this blog which will be
published for free. You can also share the link to your
business, website or blog page in the article you are
providing.
You can submit your article by contacting the author/moderator of
the blog “Agwu iyke Samson.”

16. Let’s Relate:
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