Artigo "Town & Country" da autoria de Sarah Modlock publicado na Revista SquareMile - The Voice of the City, sobre a viagem ao Estoril organizada por João Aníbal Henriques da TOW - Travel Our Way.

1. king of the castles:
the Palácio de Pena,
Sintra, is regarded as the
finest expression of 19th-
century Romanticism
and is a Unesco World
Heritage Site
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t r a v e lportugal
● When you DREAM about weekend
escapes close to home, chances are you’re
imagining visions of the West Country,
Scotland or – at a pinch – France. So it was a
revelation to learn that Portugal is not just for
golfers and you can be in Lisbon in a couple
of hours – about the time it takes to get, ooh,
halfway down the M3 on a Friday afternoon.
With its eclectic blend of neighbourhoods
and rich cultural offerings, you can take in
much of Lisbon’s charms comfortably in a
couple of afternoons. An organised walking
tour is ideal for first timers here; it draws you
into magnificent churches and gives a great
insight into the city’s history and diverse
culture. Tram tours are also a relaxing way to
negotiate the city. But take time to wander in
the sunshine, and you’ll find winding cobbled
streets, local colour and the best pavement
cafés. Even the graffiti excels: “Tourists:
respect Portugal’s quiet or go to Spain”.
Looking down over the city is Saint
George’s Castle, a must-see. Its oldest parts
date from the sixth century when it was
fortified by the Romans, Visigoths, and
eventually the Moors. Portugal’s first king
Afonso Henriques captured the castle in
1147 with the help of northern European
crusaders on their way to the Holy Land, and
it was dedicated to England’s St George to
commemorate the Anglo-Portuguese pact.
If only we could point to a similar tribute in
England. A wander through the courtyards
and ruins here provides incredible views across
the whole of the city. If you book in advance
the sun-dappled outdoor tables of Casa do
Leão (+351 21 887 5962) are perfect for
lunch. Enjoy a panoramic view of the city and
its fabled hills as you sip excellent Portuguese
wine and plan your visit to the coast.
20 minutes by car or pretty train ride
from Lisbon is the unspoilt harbour town of
Estoril. Think St Tropez – but without the
noise and bling. Owing to a Mediterranean-
style microclimate, the Estoril coast has mild
winters and an ideal summer temperature that
never gets too hot. The autumn here is like a
second spring. Named ‘the Coast of Kings’,
this area became home to Europe’s 19th- and
20th-century refugee royals and aristocrats –
and attracted World War II spies who made
good use of the network of fishing boats to
move along the Riviera for ‘work purposes’.
In the evenings, they all mingled in the
famous casino, said to be the largest in Europe
and the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s Casino
Royale – he played Le Chiffre-types many
times here with British naval intelligence
officers, German spies and local businessmen.
Playing the tables here is best – in common
with most casinos, the food is little more than
predictable. Instead, head across the road
to the excellent restaurant Costa do Estoril
which serves a large variety of fresh grilled fish
and authentic Portuguese food in a relaxed
atmosphere with warm service. The bar here
is open until 6am so night owls can people-
watch as the steady stream of gamblers come
to celebrate wins or drown their sorrows.
Follow further in Fleming’s footsteps by
staying at the Hotel Palácio Estoril, a luxury
five-star hotel that boasts beautifully ❱❱
Just 20 minutes from
Lisbon is the unspoilt
town of Estoril. Think
St Tropez – but without
the noise and bling
Country
Town &
We sent two put-upon reporters to Portugal – one for a city break, one for
a seaside adventure. Sarah Modlock reports on the culture and society of
Lisbon and Estoril, while Chris Sullivan is the action man of the Algarve

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t r a v e l
chris sullivan in action
● I never thought I’d find myself looking
down at the sea, hanging from a pencil-thick
rope while climbing a 100ft vertical limestone
rock face. Then again, I’d never contemplated
kayaking for three hours against the battering
swell of the famously cold Atlantic or
‘hanging ten’ atop a surfboard. But after a
long weekend in the western Algarve I had
accomplished all three, thrown in a bit of
golfing, some spa action and sampled some of
the best food and wine on God’s green earth.
The location of my rebirth as an extreme-
sport thrill-seeking, adrenaline-fuelled
buzz junkie was the Parque da Floresta golf
and leisure resort. Just an hour from Faro
airport, it’s located on the edge of the Costa
Vincentina Nature Reserve and offers every
type of luxury accommodation from cottages
to sumptuous five-star villas with private
pools – all of which can be rented or bought.
The first thing I did on my arrival was make
a fool of myself on the golf range, hitting
things that had never been hit by a golf ball
before. Indeed, in another situation I might
have been applauded for my marksmanship.
Then, after a sauna and a portion of the
region’s quite remarkable sea food at A
Taberna – one of the resort’s many restaurants
– it was up early and off to climb the rock
face under the tutelage of the patient chaps at
Extreme Algarve, who not only offer all of the
above, but also scuba diving, wake boarding,
microlighting, skydiving and sailing.
At first I was rubbish. But after getting
over my abject humiliation, I was soon up
there like a puffin scrambling over cliff-side
outcrops. I’d always been baffled as to why
men climb mountains, but suddenly I saw
the light. Not only is it fun but it’s also a
proper physical workout that uses every darn
muscle you own. And though you might
think the sheer height off-putting, the mental
conundrum of finding where to put your feet
next soon overtakes any fears. Then suddenly
you are at the top – sweating but exhilarated.
And that was just the morning.
Next up was the sea kayaking. In direct
contrast to climbing I thought this would be a
doddle. I had kayaked before and done white-
water rafting – but going against the tide in
the freezing cold water while synchronising
your paddling with an utterly inexperienced
partner is like banging a nail into concrete
with your tongue. But we gave it a go and so
proceeded from Battista beach around the
beautiful Lagos Coast, passing astounding
rock formations and almost impossibly scenic
grottos. All went swimmingly for about 17
seconds until my kayaking partner for the
day lost the beat – her paddles colliding with
mine, banging me in the head, splashing me
with water – and there was no other option
than to call halt and start again.
“One paddle, two paddle!” I bellowed like a
latter day Captain Bligh. Though we capsized
three times, the ice-cold water taking our
breath away in great big gobs, we eventually
arrived back amazed and exhausted, yet
feeling curiously marvellous at the same time.
We had achieved the impossible and while
every muscle ached, it was a good ache.
Now all that was needed was a steam, a
massage and a good dinner. A Eire Do Mel
is one of those bucolic local restaurants that
you stumble upon very rarely but remember
all your life. The specialité de la maison is the
cataplana, a broad, domed copper pot, much
like two woks together, that might contain
rabbit, Atlantic prawns, chicken or clam
– all cooked in garlic, white wine, thyme,
parsley and olive oil. A stupendous regional
dish, it tasted all the better for being washed
down with the local vinho tinto, Quinta
do Barranco Longo. And do try one of the
region’s local ports – the excellent Niepoort
2001 got my vote, for what it’s worth.
After all that exertion, Sunday called for
relaxation – but when offered a round on
Parque de Floresta’s superb golf course, who
could refuse? And even though very much
a novice who took all morning to beat his
way through the 18 holes, by the time we
finished I was hooked on the sport that I had
previously derided – to the extent that I am
now planning to buy my own clubs.
And that was the tale of the trip – I did
things that I never thought I’d do but you
can be sure I’ll try again. Visions of Irish-
theme pubs and burger bars – like Blackpool
during a heat wave – had always put me off
the Algarve but this was an eye-opener. The
perfect weekend destination, temperatures dip
only to an average 13°C in January, rising to
28°C in August – and even in November you
can bask in the very pleasant 18°C heat.
And it’s a family fiesta at Parque de Floresta
– while sir goes off golfing, climbing or
kayaking, one’s significant other can indulge
in an arsenal of spa treatments (massage, body
rubs and facials), while the kids – in the care
of the resident child minders – play darts,
pool, ten-pin bowling or enjoy some coaching
at the resident football academy.
In short, everyone is happy – and you can
bet your life that we were. ■ – Chris Sullivan
Stay two weeks for the price of one at Parque
da Floresta. 01223 307 088, vigia-resorts.com
Activities: Extreme Algarve, extremealgarve.
com. Fly direct to Faro with Monarch
Airlines, starting from £41 one-way (£73
return) 0871 225 3884, monarch.co.uk.
❱❱ landscaped gardens and sea views. The
charming manager, Mr Correa de Barros,
will show you the Bond creator’s registration
document from his stay in May 1941 and
tell magical tales of the hotel’s time as a
hotbed of espionage. “There were so many
international spies in Estoril at the time that
all a journalist had to do to find out who had
won a key battle in the war was to telephone
the hotel’s concierge,” he explains. “If the
Germans were celebrating in the bar, things
weren’t looking good. If the British agents
were popping corks, the headline would be
more upbeat. The press agencies called it the
‘champagne news’.” The hotel even makes an
appearance in the Bond film On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service. Happily, it has been updated
since then and offers comfortable bedrooms
and fresh, elegant lounges, plus a large, sun-
drenched swimming pool and dining terrace.
For those looking for more strenuous
activities than raising a glass or a leisurely
lunch by the sea, there is plenty to see and
do locally, including golf as well as racing at
the famous MotoGP circuit. Nearby Cascais
is famed for its beautiful sandy beaches,
bristling marina (which hosted the World
Championships last year), flower-filled
parks and chic, cobbled streets; perfect for
an afternoon of shopping and meandering.
Take a boat trip along the coast and visit
Cabo da Roca, the most western point of
mainland Europe. Lunch at Porto de Santa
Maria (portosantamaria.com) on the beach is
a treat to be savoured – an upmarket seafood
favourite for around 30 years, it has had a
Michelin star for 25 of them. Its reputation
is such that it draws locals and tourists –
including Bill Clinton – from miles around.
The crowning glory in this part of the
world, though, has to be Sintra. As you drive
into the mountains, the warm beaches melt
into cool, cloud-covered forests. Hidden
among the trees are castles and palaces with
original artefacts from the time when they
were the summer retreats of the royal family.
Nearby, the restaurant Cantinho de São Pedro
(cantinhosaopedro.com) serves fabulous fresh
fish dishes; it makes the perfect spot for lunch
before heading back into the city and back to
the hotel. Just in time for a shaken martini or
two, in fact. ■ –Sarah Modlock
details +
If you want to make the most of a day
or the whole weekend, local travel
agent João Henriques can arrange
customised trips focusing on or
combining sport, culture, gastronomy
and wine-tasting, sailing, nature
reserves and even close encounters
with local fishermen or James Bond-
style car chases and powerboat trips.
His company, TOW – Travel Our Way
– prides itself on showing Lisbon off the
tourist trail and can arrange everything
from travel and hotels to restaurant
bookings and excursions. tow.pt
TAP Portugal has five daily flights
from London Heathrow to Lisbon from
£112 return (inc tax) and one daily flight
from London Gatwick from £103 return
(inc tax). 0845 601 0932, flytap.com
Rooms in the Palácio Estoril Hotel
cost from £320 until 31 October.
palacioestorilhotel.com
For further information on Portugal
and Estoril call the Portuguese
National Tourist Office, 0845 355 1212,
visitportugal.com.
We had achieved the
impossible – while
every muscle ached
it was a good ache
rise and shine: Cabo da Roca’s lighthouse on the Atlantic coast near Sintra – mainland Europe’s westernmost point