1. A Funny Thing Happened On the Way to the Wine List…
The Wines of India
Last year I found myself in a New Delhi restaurant having dinner with a group of worldly
travelers with worldly palates. As we gathered around the table waiting to experience the
local cuisine, I surveyed the room and found many other tourists marveling at the chance
of enjoying authentic Indian cuisine in India.
When the waiter came to take our order we were quick to call out dishes that we had
come to love at local Indian restaurants back home. Thoughts of Chicken Tikka Masala,
hot Garlic Naan and Vegetable Simosas overshadowed any foreign thoughts of Italian
pastas, French cheeses or Argentine steaks; then a funny thing happened on the way to
the wine list; people began to reach for their mental wine passports and drift out of India
and in to Italy, France and Argentina. “What about a wine from India?” I asked. Their
looks said it all, “They make wine in India?”
India makes fine red, white and sparkling wines. History states that viticulture, or the
planting of grapes, was introduced in India by Persian traders around the 4th
millennium
BC. Since then many factors and foreigners have influenced the growth of India’s wine
culture including the Portuguese, the British and the French.
In the 16th
century Portuguese settlers introduce the production of fortified wines while
the British were responsible for creating a thriving Indian wine industry during the
Victorian Era (1837-1901). At the end of the 19th
century India’s wine success came to a
halt when an unfortunate bug louse known as phyloxeria wiped out many of India’s
vineyards. Unfashionable religious and public opinions towards alcohol led to the
creation of dry states in the 1950’s which in turn kept India’s wine industry idling for the
next few decades.
In 1986 India experienced a re-launch of winemaking with the establishment of Chateau
Indage, a French inspired winery born after 2 years of research by the Champagne
Technologies of France. Chateau Indage paved the way for the planting of international
grape varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot as well as implementing the latest in
winemaking techniques. By the end of the 20th
century India had a total of six established
vineyards…then came the boom.
Today India’s wine industry is considered to be one of the fastest growing in the world.
With over 65 established wineries, India’s wine expansion has less to do with exports and
much to do with local interest within the Indian market. Reduced duties, an increase in
disposable income, amplified wine marketing and influence from western cultures has
helped to fuel the wine craze. According to the Associated Chambers of Commerce and
Industry of India, wine consumption in India is expected to grow by 25% between 2008
and 2010.
Most of India’s top wineries are located in the west coast state of Maharashtram near the
towns of Nashik or Narayangaon (about 180km from the capitol Mumbai). Top wine
2. producers include Chateau Indage (www.chateauindage.com), Sula Vineyards
(www.sulawines.com), Chateau d’Ori (www.chateaudori.com) and Vinsura Vineyards
(www.vinsura.com). Equipped with state of the art tasting rooms, chic restaurants, and
breathtaking views, India’s wine country has become a popular destination for both locals
and tourists alike.
What should you expect when choosing a wine from India? A large selection of red,
white, rose and sparkling wines made from both international and indigenous grapes.
Like wines from California or France, the wines of India range in styles from dry to
sweet making them a perfect match for dishes ranging from Chicken Tandoori to pizza.
White wines made from Sauvignon Blanc,
Riesling and Chenin Blanc grapes are
leading the way, producing crisp and
refreshing wines that are perfect to serve as
an aperitif or with spicy dishes. My personal
recommendation is the Sauvignon Blanc
from Sula Vineyards. Sula has quickly
gained the reputation as India’s #1 premium
wine company since the launch of the
company’s first wines in 2000. Just look for
the label with the bright yellow sun sporting
a handlebar mustache (currently exported to
Europe, Japan, Singapore, Dubai, Canada
and the USA).
Red wines are also made from both
indigenous and international grape varieties
including Shiraz (Syrah), Merlot and
Zinfandel. Wines tend to be fresh and food
friendly selections that are great companions
to pizza, pasta or hearty Indian cuisine.
Most sparkling wines are made using the true méthode champenoise (the same bottle
aging method as Champagne), producing high quality wines that are perfect to serve as
an aperitif or with dishes such as chicken tandoori or seafood.
While most people come to enjoy worldly cultures and cuisine without taking a trip
abroad, the same does not always apply with wine. As an avid supporter of wines from
emerging regions I encourage you to try these hidden gems every chance you get. You
will be surprised! For more information or recommendations my door is always open.