McLoughlin Brothers Circus Procession Miniature Book

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McLoughlin Brothers Circus Procession Miniature Book

  1. 1. McLoughlin Book The Circus Procession
  2. 2. This is 12th scale The original book measures approximately 12 feet when opened out, and this miniature version measures roughly 12 inches (30 cm).
  3. 3. I used • • • • • • • • • • a sharp knife a blunt knife a metal ruler Evo-stick wood glue, and a small paint brush 80gsm HP plotter paper 160 gsm white card a scrap of white tissue paper a pair of scissors a cutting mat (for this example only) my canon Pixma home computer A sharp knife does not tear paper I need a new knife blade This project needs clean, crisp edges. A “sharp” knife will cut a straight line without damaging the paper.
  4. 4. First I printed the full strip of pages. I used HP plotter paper from a long roll and so I was able to print a strip that was longer than the standard A4 size. (I had to adjust my printer settings to do this) If you only have A4 paper do not despair. There is an A4 pdf, as well as a 12 inch pdf, and I will demonstrate how to join two short strips later on.
  5. 5. On the strip There are very faint lines on the joins between some pages. These lines indicate where one set of folds should be. Before doing anything else, I scored along these lines using ruler and a blunt knife.
  6. 6. Then I cut along the long edge of the strip of pages – at both the top and the bottom. Note – I don’t usually use a cutting board but, because of the length of the strip, I used one today.
  7. 7. I made the long cuts first because I find that if I cut along the short ends first this very often happens.
  8. 8. If I hadn’t had a piece of paper that was over 12 inches (30 cm) long, the book would not have fitted on one sheet and I would have had to join two shorter strips of paper together – using tissue paper. Note – I tore the tissue paper into roughly the right shape. I did this because a torn edge “disappears” better than a straight-cut edge.
  9. 9. I am using Evo-stick wood glue today. It is not as “wet” as some craft glues, but the tissue paper is still getting pulpy. I could have left more paper at the top and bottom of the printed strip, and then trimmed it when it was joined and dry. This might have been easier. Gluing tissue paper… I held one (dry) end of the strip down and wiped my gluey brush over the other.
  10. 10. There are different thickness and types of tissue paper The tissue paper, I was using was so thin that I decided to double it up.
  11. 11. This join has to dry completely before it can be trimmed… Note – This has to dry FLAT NOT FOLDED
  12. 12. While the paper was drying I printed out (on 80 gsm HP plotter paper) the paper for the rectangles and the paper for the book covers. Then I stuck the rectangles onto a piece of 160 gsm card.
  13. 13. Note Here is a photo of a slightly larger book that I made some years ago. The paper on the covers is coated ink-jet paper that has been glazed for durability. The colours are brighter and its appearance is closer to that of the original book.
  14. 14. Then Leaving the rectangles to dry, I used a blunt knife to score fold lines – on all fours sides just outside the illustration.
  15. 15. Then I cut around the coloured border as neatly as possible and folded the paper up at the creases. Then I cut out the (still slightly damp) rectangles of card and checked how the two fitted together. The fit does not need to exact, just as close as possible. Oh dear, blurry photo. I was doing so well too !
  16. 16. When I was happy with the fit of the paper around the cardboard, I unfolded the paper and cut some of it away from each corner. Note – This is not how you are supposed to cut corners for binding. I did it this way because I find the “proper” way is too bulky at this scale.
  17. 17. Then I applied glue to the card and stuck it to the paper. I put the glue on the card because it is easier to hold damp, gluey card, than it is to hold damp, gluey paper. Then I applied a little bit of glue to the long edges of paper and folded them over, as neatly as possible.
  18. 18. Well The back looks neat, how about the front?
  19. 19. When finished, the two covers looked like this. There is just a tiny rim of colour around the illustration.
  20. 20. After I had put the covers under a light weight, I trimmed the completely dry strip of paper and started to fold the pages into place.
  21. 21. The aim is - to make a concertina book Previously scored and now folded upwards Hold edges of upward folds together and then make a crease for the downward fold
  22. 22. When All the creases were in place, I glued the first page to the inside of the front cover and the last page to the inside of the back cover. Note – This time I applied glue to the page and then stuck it to the cover. FRONT VIEW
  23. 23. At first - the finished book was reluctant to stay shut. Usually, I would reinforce the creases by using a bone folder. But I couldn’t find my bone folder so I…
  24. 24. … made a small book press with two pieces of thick card and a couple of clips. This will make sure that the book dries flat. FRONT VIEW WARNING – Make sure there is NO WET GLUE anywhere before doing this
  25. 25. All done
  26. 26. What about the back? Can you see where the pages are joined by the tissue paper? In real life I can feel the paper and the join, but it is not immediately visible. It was difficult to make it show up in the photograph.
  27. 27. Afterthought The plotter paper is beautifully smooth and very white, but it might be a nice idea to age the back of the print, so that it wasn’t so starkly white. I would do this before printing the book.

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