Nose-in-a-Day, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley
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Climbing the Nose on El Capitan
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Nose-in-a-Day, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley
- 1. Nose-in-a-Day El Capitan, Yosemite Valley October 1, 2013 Kishen Mangat & Bosier Parsons
- 3. Style Evolution on El Capitan 2001 2013 Route The Nose The Nose Vertical height 3300’ 3300' Objective Multi-day Single day Style Lead swap Short fixing Total pitches 31 31 Pitches / 24 hr 8 28 Haul bag Yes No Nights slept 3 0 Gear (lbs.) 140 40 Total time 79 hours 27 hours Ethos Brute force Planned execution
- 4. Style objectives • Be fit! (remember we’re forty..) • Light and fast – Eliminate the haul bag, sleeping bags – Light rack etc. • Utilize “Short fixing” technique – Not the same as simul climbing – Move faster on long routes – Leader fixes the rope – Follower and leader advance simultaneously until the seconder reaches the new belay point
- 5. The Nose Route • FA 1961, Warren Harding et al • Very crowded • Numerous pendulums • Excellent free and easy aid climbing • Worth the reputation
- 6. El Cap Basics • When to go? – May, September, October, early November – June through August is very hot • Where to stay? – Camp 4: Historic climbers campground. First come, first served. – Curry Village: Permanent platform tents by reservation – Pines Campground: Campsites by reservation – Ahwanee Hotel: Five star accommodations • Where to get beta – Tom Evans’ El Cap Report – Mountain Project – Super Topo – The bridge • Guidebooks: – Yosemite Climbs, Don Reid – Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, SuperTopo – Many others • Guiding: Yosemite Mountain School YosemitePark.com/rock-climbing-guides-pages.asp
- 7. Training • Stamina, strength and endurance are key • Climb a lot of pitches – Boulder Canyon rock e.g. Castle Rock – RMNP – Black Canyon – South Platte • Climb in Yosemite – Halfdome – Rostrum • Practice Short fixing at Cynical Pinnacle
- 8. Halfdome Training Climb • Regular NW Face • July 4th weekend, 2013 • 22 pitches • Single push; 18 hours • Two 11 pitch leader blocks • Short fixing style
- 11. Pitch 21Thank God Ledge
- 12. ONTO THE NOSE!
- 13. Tom Evans, El Cap Meadow old-timer
- 14. Lower Buttress below Sickle
- 15. Dolt Tower Stove Legs crack system El Cap Tower Sickle Ledge
- 17. Stove Legs
- 18. Above Dolt, approaching El Cap Tower
- 19. Texas Flake
- 20. Boot Flake
- 21. Grey Bands
- 23. Great roof
- 25. Great Roof
- 26. Great Roof (Short Fix)
- 27. Pancake Flake
- 28. Glowering Spot
- 29. Camp Six
- 41. Middle Cathedral Lower Cathedral Higher Cathedral
- 42. Thank you and happy climbing! Questions or beta: kishenmangat@gmail.com
Editor's Notes
- My background -CC -OB - > Yosemite -Career impact on climbing About the impetus for the climb -20 years partnership -40th birthday objective
- Important to check the condition of the ropes Our ropes were in good condition Temperatures cooled as we ascended Good sleeping temperature with no sleeping bags and only an emergency blanket
- Working the route Day 1 to pitch 7 (6 hours) Rest Day 2 to pitch 16 (Eagle Ledge) – 10 hours (aggressive passing on day 2)
- Counter-weight above Sickle Ledge
- Sean Leary , Mayan Smith Gobat story
- Discuss History of El Cap climbing and the Nose Route