Midwest Ice Climbing History 15-2011
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Midwest Ice Climbing History slideshow given by Eric Landmann at the second annual Ice Pit Ice Fest in DePere, WI on Jan. 15, 2011. Copyright 2011 Granite Publishing.
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Midwest Ice Climbing History 15-2011
- 1. An incomplete History of Midwest Ice Climbing Eric Landmann – Granite Publishing
- 2. 1932 --Laurent Grivel added front points to crampons. 1958 --Chouinard Equipment is formed in Ventura, CA by Yvon Chouinard. 1962 --First lightweight, completely adjustable crampons invented by Salewa (Salewa “Classic”). 1964 --Salewa ice screw invented. 1969 --Chouinard began making ice axes with curved picks, a popular innovation which increased their utility on different surfaces. 1973 --Great Pacific Iron Works Inc. was created by Chouinard in 1973. Chrome-moly pitons are Yvon’s new invention. 1974 --Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss climb Bridalveil Falls, Colorado.
- 4. 1978
- 7. 1979
- 8. 1980 --Shaun Parent, Joanne Murphy and Paul Dedi climb Kakabeka Falls, probably the first time ice was climbed in the region. --At Munising, Dairyland (WI5, 50m) by Paul Kuenn. Ahead of his time! 1981 --First climb done in Orient Bay (Tempest) led by Paul Dedi. Equipment included one 11-meter rope, four ice screws, a 75cm ice axe and a short rock hammer. 1982 --Paul Landry and Guy Lacelle climb Glace Eclatante (WI3+, 55m). 1983 --Alpine Outing FA by Shaun Parent and Ed Iwasa. 1984 --Second edition of Climber's Guide to Thunder Bay by Shaun Parent is published listing 22 ice climbs. 1985 --Ice Stud (WI2, 55m) FA by Shaun Parent and Dave Pugliese. --Curtain Call and White Lightning were FA'd by Shaun and partners.
- 9. 1985
- 10. 1986 Climber's Guide to the Ice of Orient Bay by Shaun Parent is released. Includes 78 routes, a few maps, no photos.
- 11. Routes done by 1986 Mellow Yellow Reflection Wall GoMar Falls Cascade Falls Glace Eclatante Obesession Remember the Day Tempest Ranxerox Tangent Tears of Joy The Adrenaline Sycho Icycho Solution Andromeda Weeps Eveil des Sens Starquake High Fidelity
- 17. 1999 The Ice Pit 1989 Gibraltar Rock
- 18. 1987 –Ice Fest I happened almost by accident when Shaun and climbers from Toronto met up with a handful of local Thunder Bay and Minnesota climbers. –Article in Climbing mag by Laurence Saroka about Orient Bay. –Orient Bay guide supplement lists 16 new routes, including Parallax (Rone and B Lindquist), and 10% Real (Mike Dahlberg, Laurence Saroka, Melissa Quigley, and Steve Arneson). On the FA of Parallax – “I did the first ascent of this route with Burt Lindquist in March of 1987. Tools were a Lowe Big Bird axe and a Hummingbird Hammer. Crampons were Footfangs on double-leather boots. Screws were Chouinards and an occasional pound-in Snarg. Gloves were Dachstein boiled wool. I remember being so pumped as I finished the lead I couldn't hang on to the tools anymore, my fingers were just opening up! Sheer terror and the fear of a hell of a fall got me to the top.” – Dave Rone
- 19. 1989 Orient Bay – Tempest
- 20. 1989 Orient Bay – McCollum’s Cabins
- 21. 1988 --In Agawa, Bridalveil Falls (WI3, 80m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Lloyd and Flying Circus (WI4+, 95m) by Shaun Parent and A. McColm. 1989 --Black Diamond is formed. --In Montreal River South Bay, first ascents of Steps to Rama (WI4, 140m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Loyd, and Solo Menagerie (WI5, 100m), and Comfortably Numb (WI4, 130m) 1990 --Climbing mag #117 has a special Canadian issue, and mentions Orient Bay. This drives more visitors to Ice Fest IV. 1991 --Getting Oriented (WI4, 55m) at Kama Bay is first climbed.
- 23. 1991
- 31. 1992
- 33. 1992 Beardmore
- 36. 1992 Hotel Normandie Nipigon
- 37. 1993
- 40. 1993 North of Superior Orient Bay Ice Climber’s Guide by Shaun Parent Granite Publishing
- 50. 1994 Starved Rock
- 51. 1994
- 53. 1995
- 57. 1996
- 68. Trestle
- 76. 1998 Black Black Diamond Diamond Cobra Sabretooth
- 77. 1998 Da Yoo Pee
- 78. A “waterfall” in the U.P.
- 79. 1998 Redridge
- 84. 1999
- 85. 1999 Ice Fest XIII China Gardens
- 89. 1999 Agawa Canyon Map (1st Ed.)
- 90. 1999 The Ice Pit
- 95. 1999
- 97. 2000
- 107. Munising Carnage
- 112. 2001 Starved Rock
- 120. 2002 Black Black Diamond Diamond Viper Fusion
- 122. 2002 House of Cards Mt. McRae
- 123. 2002 Java Kama Bay
- 127. 2003 NC-17 Kama Bay
- 134. 2004 Wall of Doom Orient Bay
- 140. 2005 Petzl Nomic
- 142. 2004 Shelob’s Lair
- 152. 2005 Time Well Wasted Orient Bay
- 154. 2005 Agawa Canyon Map (2nd Ed.) by Shaun Parent Granite Publishing
- 157. 2006 Wailing Wall South Gillies
- 164. 2006 Relativity Orient Bay Wailing Wall
- 169. 2006 Reflection Wall
- 171. 2007
- 172. 2007 An Ice Climbers Guide to Munising, Michigan 1st Edition By Jon Jugenheimer
- 175. 2008 The Shining Path Kama Bay
- 180. 2010 B**** Road ?