2. Wondering what Pride sounds
like with a Spanish accent?
In two of Spain’s most beautiful
cities, it sounds muy bueno.
by Jeffrey James Keyes
when heading to sPain,
many gay guys make a beeline for
Barcelona. Don’t get me wrong —
there’s plenty to love about that
great Spanish city, with its archi-
tecture by Gaudí and the boys that
wander up and down Las Ramblas.
But I recently discovered a new-
found love for España by visiting the
cities of Madrid and Seville — while
their Gay Pride celebrations were
in full swing. Though the cities are
roughly 340 miles apart, they some-
how make sense together. A flight
between the two on the Iberian
peninsula is brief and relatively
inexpensive. And be sure to give
yourself ample time in both, as
there is plenty to see, and the
local day trips are divine.
Photo by jeffrey james keyes.
The Isabel II Bridge, reaching over
the Guadalquivir River in Seville.
metrosource.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 56
3. Photos, left to right: Seville’s ma-
jestic Cathedral; Madrid’s Egyptian
Temple of Debod; an authentic
Spanish bullfighting ring.
THE RIVER OF SEVILLE cravers will also want to take in Spanish and
STAYING IN SEVILLE we began oUr sPanish exPedition in beautiful Andalusian paintings and sculptures by art-
Seville, where Pride is celebrated — much like ists like Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, Juan de
Looking for an alternative to the Casa
in many U.S. cities — on the last weekend in Valdes Leal and Francisco de Zurbarán at one
saCristina de santa ana? the Casa
June. Located on the eastern bank of the Río of Seville’s many galleries and museums.
romana hoteL boUtiQUe is conveniently
Guadalquivir, Seville is divided into four major Unless you’re squeamish, there’s no ex-
located just down the road from the
districts: El Arenal, Santa Cruz, La Macarena cuse to leave Seville without experiencing one
bustling alameda de hercules. if you’re
and Parque María Luisa. Book a room at the of its famed bullfights. Not only does walk-
looking for something in a private villa,
chic Casa Sacristina de Santa Ana, right in the ing through the bullring’s Puerta del Príncipe
Casa romana’s owner also offers sUite
center of the gay district. The rooms are tradi- gate summon instant flashbacks to Madonna’s
aLCÁZar, which provides thrilling views
tional but posh, and the hotel is quiet and well “Take a Bow”video, but you can also take a day
overlooking the cathedral; spending an
maintained. An added incentive is the hotel’s trip to a local bull ranch in nearby Gerena to
evening there while enjoying tapas beside
restaurant; its fare could easily tempt a traveler further immerse yourself in the culture. If you
the cathedral’s illuminated terrace is noth-
to eat in every night (though that would be an play your cards right, you’ll end up at Finca la
ing short of magical.
absolute shame, as Seville is a buffet of great Mirandilla, a local tourist-friendly farmhouse,
there’s also the grandiose hoteL
dining destinations — see sidebar). Outside lunching with a genuine matador (eat your
aLfonso xiii. it’s always booked solid; so
the hotel, the Alameda de Hercules (a sandy, heart out, Madge!).
reservations are needed well in advance.
open, tree-lined space) sprawls: The popular Another local tradition that you’d be remiss
but it would be worth it to stay in the
public area has an almost overwhelming array not to check out is that spicy Spanish dance, the
same rooms where brad Pitt, madonna
of bars, theatres, cafés, shops and restaurants. flamenco. The epicenter of Andalusia Flamenco
and even Princess di have taken siesta. if
It’s no wonder writers like Washington Ir- is the Museo del Baile Flamenco, with its phe-
you can’t snag a stay, try to drop by for
ving and Ernest Hemingway spent time in and nomenal displays and exhibitions on the history
brunch and a swim in the garden.
wrote about romantic Seville. In addition to and evolution of what they call the “soul of An-
Hotel Alfonso the soaring, Muslim-influenced architecture of dalusia.” Then, head to the Tablao el Arenal, a
XIII the Cathedral of Seville (where you can take a restaurant and performance space where Span-
peek at the Tomb of Christopher Columbus), ish guitarists and gypsy dancers take the stage
Seville is also home to the Palacio de la Conde- to offer Flamenco in full effect.
sa de Lebrija, where Roman mosaics give the Looking for nightlife? Hit the gay bars
illusion that one is stepping back time. Culture on the Paseo de Colón (Isbiliyya Café-Bar, El
58 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 metrosource.com
4. Paseo and Flamingo are all great) or bar hop
through the Almeda de Hercules (El Bosque
Animado, Café Latte, Hercules Mitico, Itaca).
But during Seville Gay Pride, there’s an even
better option: a wild cruise that departs from
CathedraL and bULLring Photos by jeffrey james keyes; temPLe Photo CoUrtesy the toUrist offiCe of sPain.
the Torre del Oro. Dancing the night away to
Kylie remixes as you float up the Río Gua-
dalquivir on a boat full of sexy gay boys and
girls is the perfect way to remember the gay
side of Seville.
IT’S A MAD, MAD, MAD, MAD MADRID
the rooftoP bar and LoUnge of the ME By
Melía hotel is one of the most exclusive ven-
ues in all of Spain. Locals and foreigners alike
gather here to take in the sunset with a ciga-
rette in one hand and one of the hotel’s famous
black mojitos in the other. Down below, the
hotel itself is equally hip, posh and luxurious
— definitely the place to stay. If you’re looking
for lodging that’s less of a see-and-be-seen-
scene, another beautiful alternative is the AC
Palacio del Retiro, situated between the city’s
famed “art triangle” and the Parque del Retiro,
which is an ideal place for a stroll or a quiet
moment — I came to this park on my last day
in Madrid to say goodbye to the city.
But at this point, I was still saying hola to
this vibrant city, and there was plenty to greet,
metrosource.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 59
5. Madrid by night.
including some of the best museums and art collections of work by Velázquez and Goya. the Paseo del Prado), the museum is visually
collections in the world. The Museo Nacional You could easily spend a month wandering the stunning inside and out — and that’s before
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is the place to go Prado and not see everything, but definitely do you even take into account the art that hangs
for 20th-century and avant garde pieces, but at not miss Hieronymus Bosch’s infamous The on its walls.
the very least you must go see Picasso’s mas- Garden of Earthly Delights. Fans of castles (and who doesn’t go a little
sive (and massively famous) mural Guernica. For a more modern twist, head over to castle crazy when jaunting about Europe?) can
Looking for masterpieces by major artists like Madrid’s hottest new architectural landmark, channel King Carlos IV and strut through the
Titian, Van Gogh, Degas and Picasso? Try the CaixaForum. Designed by Jacques Herzog throne room of the Palacio Real, Spain’s royal
Thyssen-Bornemisza. And then there’s the and Pierre de Meuron (who turned a former palace and the largest palace in Western Eu-
Mueso del Prado, which offers unparalleled power plant into a high-end cultural center on rope. Or you can head just outside of town to
SHOPPING IN MADRID
if you’re in madrid and in the mood
for some power-shopping, then you’re
headed toward the salamanca. Label
lovers, you can find your beloved
d&g, tom ford and gucci here, but
before you fill your Louis Vuitton
luggage with wares you can also
purchase stateside, have a look at local
favorites like Loewe, just one and
gallery. Looking forward to whip-
ping out your credit card, but not so
much a fan of whipping out a map?
you can get your hands on your very
own personal shopping guru, thanks
to a local company called shopin. my
guru, blanca gordon rico, offered a
thorough tour madrid’s best shopping
locations. by the end of our afternoon
i felt like i had just been through my
very own episode of What Not to
Wear — en español.
60 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 metrosource.com
6. Casa Robles restaurant, Seville
COMER AqUÍ!
SEVILLE: head to the Casa robles and try the
lubina con caranjas (spanish whitefish with local
oranges) or scrumptious pork from the huelva
mountains. Pop into sopa de ganso, bar estrella or
Casa Paco for tapas (local favorites include squid,
swordfish, andalusia ham, snails and gazpacho).
for dinner, i recommend chic Le madame ego res-
luxuriate in the lavish gardens of the Palacio
taurante, where the amazing menu ranged from
Real de Aranjuez. It’s also known as the Span-
prawns to cod to flavorful modena beef, complete
ish Versailles, and it isn’t hard to see why.
with a drag queen serenading us while we dined.
Though you could easily spend your entire
abades triana features floor-to-ceiling windows
visit taking in rooftop sunsets and cruising art
looking out on the guadalquivir, and the monkfish
galleries, it is simply impossible to ignore Ma-
ceviche and coconut sorbet, floating in a sauce of
drid Gay Pride, which begins the last weekend
shrimp and salmorejo, is to die for. other seville
in June and lasts an entire week, culminating
favorites include restaurante santo, resturante
in a parade on the second weekend. During
Pando Cuna, naranja, Porta rosa, and for a taste
Pride, it seems like the entire city folds itself
of basque cuisine, egaña oriza.
shoPPing and Casa robLes Photos by jeffrey james keyes; aLL other Photos CoUrtesy the toUrist offiCe of sPain.
into Chueca, the gay district just off the Gran
Via. Chueca feels like the center of a world-
consuming party, and everyone is in on the fun
MADRID: restaurante ramses, elegantly de-
signed by Phillipe stark, is a new madrid staple:
— I’ve never been to a Pride as fantastic and
Chef miguel angel jiménez is a culinary genius;
elaborate as Madrid’s. Tipsy crowds of shirtless
i loved his restaurant so much i wanted to eat
men fill the streets and dance to different DJs
the décor! another gay hot spot is the divina
and bands in every plaza: In the same night,
La Cocina, where chef jose Luis de Castanedo
I caught a live performance by the Ting Tings
specializes in spanish cuisine like saffron-
and swayed to the music of Spanish diva Con-
infused seafood croquettes or gilthead fish with
chita Buika. The outdoor party lasts all night,
spanish “pisto” vegetable stew. restaurante
but some of the action also moves indoors,
bazaar, near Plaza Chueca, is another local fa-
as well; there are ample bars and clubs to
vorite for mediterranean fare (i recommend the
choose from. Some of the wildest clubs were
beef tagliata with vegetables and porto sauce).
Cool, Ohm, Liquid and my favorite, Why Not?,
indice, at the aC Palacio del retiro, is a classic
where I spent most of the evening dancing to
example of european haute cuisine. another
old-school Janet hits and more modern Duffy
dinner option is madrid’s gift restaurant in the
remixes. Other hot spots (especially for those
room mate oscar hotel, conveniently located
looking to dance less and drink more) include
in the Plaza Vázquez de mella. Late brunch at
Hot, Rick’s, La Lupe and Chicote Bar, formerly
the restaurante el jardín is the best remedy for
Ava Gardner’s favorite spot.
a circuit party hangover. if you’re looking for a
Attending Madrid Gay Pride feels like fall-
late dinner and drag show, head over to gula
ing down the rabbit hole in all the best ways,
gula at 1 gran Via. other madrid favorites
and if you’re considering celebrating Pride in
include el armario, La dame noire, kola bora,
the Spanish capital, my advice to you is the
La kitchen madrid and the posh Zalacaín.
same as the name of my favorite Madrid party
spot: Why Not? ■
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