1. USA TODAY · WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19, 2005 · 3D
Inauguration 2005 SWEARING-IN
The evolution
INAUGURAL
BALL GOWN of Laura Bush
The last time Laura Bush twirled on an inaugural dance
floor, she was ensheathed in red beads — lots of them. Crit-
ical response was mixed to mean: too brash, too matronly,
too much of an attempt to emulate Nancy Reagan — un-
successfully. Fashion followers saw the gown that was de-
signed by a little-known Texan named Michael Faircloth,
Left by Jim Bourg, Reuters; right, Tim Dillon, USA TODAY
who had outfitted the Dallas Cowboys cheerleaders, as an in-
Both in de la Renta: Laura Bush and Teresa dication of four more years of style drought in Washington.
Heinz Kerry after the presidential debate in But not long after that stumble, the first lady turned up in
September; Laura Bush at the Republican the June 2001 issue of Vogue in Oscar de la Renta. Since then,
National Convention in August. her look has evolved as her collaboration with de la Renta has
grown.
First ladies in blue Bush wore a red de la Renta suit to New York’s Fashion
Week in February. She donned his turquoise jacket and
Laura Bush 2005
skirt one night during the Republican National Conven-
Hillary Rodham Clinton 1993 tion and a cream suit for a presidential debate. Last
Barbara Bush 1989 month she sparkled in de la Renta from the balcony at
Rosalynn Carter 1977 the Kennedy Center Honors gala. And Thursday, she’ll
2001 INAUGURATION be clad in his creations for both the balls and the
Eleanor Roosevelt 1933
president’s oath of office. (The white cashmere
Edith Roosevelt 1905 dress and coat is her favorite among all her inau-
Mary Todd Lincoln 1861 gural clothes, she says.)
Sarah Polk 1845 “If one is looking for something that’s at
Sources: The Smithsonian’s National Museum
once festive and refined, go to Oscar,” says Winter white: Cashmere
of American History and the National First Bobbi Queen of Women’s Wear Daily. matching coat and dress.
Ladies’ Library in Canton, Ohio De la Renta is a longtime favorite of
politicians and politician’s wives, in-
INAUGURAL BALL COAT
Azure thing cluding Nancy Reagan and Jackie
Kennedy Onassis. The
Dominican-born de-
for the ball signer is partly to
thank for Hillary Rod-
ham Clinton’s switch from pastel skirt suits
Blue, in shades soft and to black pantsuits.
strong, has proven a popular Bush seems bemused by the attention
color in the history of inaugu- being paid to her burgeoning fascination
ral attire among first ladies of with Seventh Avenue. “It does make me
all political — and style — laugh. I never have been really that in-
stripes. terested in clothes, although now I am in-
In 1905, Edith Roosevelt terested in clothes, of course.”
donned robin’s-egg blue. In De la Renta says his star client is “ex-
1989, Barbara Bush was tremely involved” in the wardrobing proc-
draped in bright blue satin and ess. “She always knows what is the right
velvet. Four years later, Hillary By Jennifer Graylock, AP
thing for her. She’s always very definite on
Rodham Clinton waltzed in a Oscar de la Renta her ideas.”
column of crystals that veered The result is that Bush now projects a qui-
toward violet. et confidence, Queen says. “She’s come a long way in her
“Blue has long been Ameri- sense of herself and her ease with fashion. It’s never all about
the clothes or all about her. It’s just a perfect balance.”
As her fashion sense has ratcheted up, Bush’s figure has
trimmed down a dress size, reportedly to a 6. At a recent
By Eileen Blass, USA TODAY
George Simonton trunk show, the designer chatted with
Not exactly a hit: Bush, who has worn Simonton’s jewel-toned and textured
Critics were not kind suits since her days as the Texas first lady.
to the gown the “I told her I thought she looked absolutely amazing,” Si-
first lady wore monton says. (The first lady credited her personal trainer.)
to the balls. “Her skin and hair and makeup look superb.
“Don’t talk to me about politics, but as far as she’s con- Ice-blue satin: Bush will
cerned, I adore her.” wear a coat over a silver
Sketches by
Oscar de la Renta
and blue embroidered
via the White House Contributing: Judy Keen tulle evening gown, left.
A lot can change in a presidential term,
sartorially speaking. USA TODAY’s Olivia Barker
examines Seventh Avenue’s growing influence
on Pennsylvania Avenue.
First fashion
Jimmy Carter Library
In 1977: Rosalynn Carter
went for turquoise.
ca’s favorite color,” says Lea-
trice Eiseman, director of the
Pantone Color Institute. It’s
“attached to pleasant thoughts
of a beautiful blue sky shining
over a peaceful body of water,”
signifying dependability and
constancy. (Hence the expres-
sion “true blue.”) The first lady
who wears it communicates
the same idea: that the coun-
try is headed into calm waters.
“This is not the time to wear 2001 INAUGURATION JENNA, INAUGURAL BALL BARBARA, SWEARING-IN
a vibrant color,” says Eiseman
— like the ruby red Laura Bush
wore last time. “This is a time
for reassurance, and that’s ex-
actly what blue” projects.
Laura Bush says the tone’s
other, obvious reference — pa-
triotism — didn’t really factor
into her choice. Designer Os-
car de la Renta “had a number
of samples of beautiful em-
broidered fabrics that were
gold or different-color beads,”
she says. “And we all just liked
the blue one best.”
Style experts praise the sub-
tlety of de la Renta’s hue. “Blue
can be saccharine-y sweet,”
says George Simonton, who
dresses Bush and teaches at
Manhattan’s Fashion Institute
of Technology. “But Laura’s is a
silvery blue, so it has a little
chicness to it.” Derek Lam via the White House
By Doug Mills, AP Badgley Mischka via the White House
Cashmere trench: Over scarf-
Contributing: Judy Keen How times have changed: Barbara, left, and Jenna Bush wore Susan Dell at the Florida Inau- neck blouse and wool skirt.
gural Ball. This year, Jenna will wear Badgley Mischka; Barbara will be in Oscar de la Renta.
Twin peeks at shifting style
JENNA, SWEARING-IN
In January 2001, Jenna and Barbara Bush their navels, or (Roberto) Cavalli” and his wild
were 19-year-old college freshmen largely shel- prints and filmy fabrics.
tered from the media glare. These days, “instead of being naive fresh-
Three years later, they accompanied their fa- men, they’re suddenly knowing seniors,”
ther on the campaign trail and spoke to millions says Brad Meltzer, whose first-family-fo-
at the Republican National Convention. cused novel The First Counsel came out
Now, as they prepare for the inauguration, around this time four years ago.
“they have a lot of self-confidence,” says James They’re so mature that they advise their
Mischka, who co-designed two of the twins’ mother about what she should wear,
gowns. “They really have come into their own.” about what makes her look younger. Lau-
Their transformation is illustrated by their ra Bush “always listens to what they say,
shifting taste in fashion, from Susan Dell designs no question about it,” says Oscar de la
that would look at home at the prom to va-va- Renta, who’s outfitting each of the
voom frocks from Badgley Mischka that seem daughters, as well their mother. Bar-
more suited to a red carpet than a red state. bara will slip on a blush chiffon de la
The daring direction is fitting, says George Renta gown for Thursday’s balls; Jenna
Simonton, a Fashion Institute of Technology pro- will pull on his beige boucle coat and Oscar de la Renta via
George Bush Presidential Library fessor and designer himself (Laura Bush is a fan). gabardine pants for the swearing-in. the White House
In 1989: First lady Barbara Badgley Mischka are “not going to do anything The Bush women have an “extraordinary re- Oscar de la Renta via the White House
Bush chose a more royal frumpy for the girls, but yet in good taste. It’s lationship,” de la Renta says. He calls the twins Embroidered coat: Over
shade of blue. not like Versace, where it would be cut down to “adorable and charming.” BARBARA, INAUGURAL BALL cashmere top, gabardine pants.