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54-55 Food 149 2
- 1. 55 French steak andquiche, Bavarian chicken and, yes, Swabians: Neukölln’s gentri- fication is rapidly reaching its logical culinary conclusion. But hey, at least it’s tasty. We took a bite out of the neigh- bourhood’s latest offerings. Schwabylon You’ve heard about Prenzlauer Berg’s Swa- bian invasion, but what’s this? Spätzle on the streets of Neukölln? Yep, the Schwabocalypse is spreading – in the form of Dominik Ei- sele’s hot-off-the-press homage to Schwaben’s carbtastic export. Eisele moved to Berlin from Baden-Württemberg in 2007, and in March began serving his region’s signature homemade noodles from this snug spot on Pannierstraße. The menu’s limited (literally four meat/cheese/ lentil variations) but wallet-friendly at €5-6 for most dishes. While you’re waiting, check out the screens buzzing with clips compiled by Eisele (he used to be a TV editor) and push-button gadgets he made himself. Oh, and fancy more Spätzle with your Spätzle? The sugar, cinnamon and applesauce “ZZ-top” is a hit with sweet- toothed diners. HB Pannierstr. 9, Tue-Sat 12-22 Schwammerl Berlin has a lot of pseudo-Bavarian restaurants, but Schwammerl is an actual, authentic Bavarian gem in the middle of Weichselstraße. Not that cook Fabian Zweimüller (who opened the place last October with Julius Fichtel) doesn’t give the traditional dishes a modern twist. Don’t hesitate to try the incredibly tender Backhendl (baked rooster, €8.50), served with both potato salad – made with vinegar, not mayonnaise, as homesick Bavarians will be happy to know – and delicious lemon crème. And the Kaiserschmarn (ripped apart pancake, €6.50) comes not only with caramelised apple slices but white choco- late. Vegetarian? The Kässpätzle (button noodles baked with cheese, €8.50) might just make you forget you’re still in Berlin... until you learn that the owners’ next move is a food truck. JH Weichselstr. 55, daily from 18 Filetstück Pigalle When Filetstück, a fancy steakhouse chain with branches in Prenzl’Berg and Wilmersdorf, opened its third location in a former bordello on Sanderstraße, it was met by spray-paint tags and angry price queries. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a place here. A red neon sign decorating one wall pays homage to the building’s history, and like its sister restaurants, it works with its surroundings. Taking advantage of the outdoor seating, the menu features lighter dishes ideal for al fresco dining. Instead of the indulgent seven-course meal made popular in Wilmersdorf, diners can enjoy plates of tender Rindergeschnet- zeltes (€17.50, which includes a soft drink, coffee and salad) with a roadside beer. The ethos of quality products isn’t sacrificed however; every cut of meat (bar one from Ireland), is sourced from German butchers and dry-aged for at least 28 days. RL Sanderstr. 17, Mon-Sat 12-22:30 Bichou Ready thy smartphone camera: the blue-tiled café/bistro behind the Rathaus is destined to be- come Neukölln’s next Instagram darling. Photo- genic French-German couple Marion Coulondre and Thomas Giese offer a small weekly rotating menu of reasonably priced quiches, soups, salads and mains like poached salmon or braised pork with lentils (quiche lorraine and tarte tatin are the only constants) to be savoured in-house over coffee or taken away in eco- and Pinterest- friendly glass jars for a €1 deposit. Our veggie quiche (with beetroot and feta, €3.20/€5.20 with salad) was light as air, with a flaky, buttery crust, and we could imagine it serving as the perfect consolation prize if you didn’t get that Bürgeramt appointment. JS Schönstedtstr. 14, Mon-Fri 11-19:30 B E R L I N ’S M O N T H LY N E W S PA P E R — R E A D, E AT A N D D R I N K PressEss Pss W W W. H I L K E R - B E R L I N . D E ONLY €2 Four new Prenzlauer Berg restaurants... in Neukölln Bichou 54-55 Food 149.indd 55 25/04/2016 17:51