1. Christmas in Cusco
Christmas is coming and you probably will celebrate with your family and in the same way you
celebrate it all the years. But in different parts of the world, Christmas is celebrated in different
ways. One example of this is how the Christmas is celebrated in Cusco. This example of celebration
is different as many places, not only in Peru, also around the world.
Cusco is a hive of activity in the run-up to Christmas, as hundreds of artisans and rural people flock
to the Inca capital for traditional celebrations and the “Santuranticuy” market on December 24th.
This has his origins in the days of the Spanish conquest. This is one of the largest arts and crafts
fairs in all of Peru, the market takes place in the “Plaza de Armas”, Cusco’s central square, and
literally means “Saints for sale”, going back to the days of the Spanish conquest: Christmas
figurines, Nativity scenes and hand-made ceramic objects are laid out on blankets, and large
biblical animals are lit up with fairy lights, adding a festive glow to all the activity. The Andean
version of Baby Jesus, “El Niño Manuelito”, is one of the more popular objects in the fair.
Locals wear traditional Peruvian dress and women carry their little ones on their backs as they
would any other time of year. They might not have much money but the atmosphere is colorful
and joyous. “Chocolotadas” are an important part of the gathering, whereby churches, patrons
and businesses give hot chocolate, bread and toys to the poor. Street vendors also run a brisk
trade selling “ponche”, a traditional hot, sweet rum punch that takes away the chill of the
mountain night air.
At midnight, some will attend the “misa de gallo” – or mass. Fireworks crack in the sky as midnight
passes adding a splash of noise and color. If it hadn’t done so already, the party now begins;
usually a living room is taken over and furniture moved aside to allow for dancing. The music more
than likely than not will go on all night. Hundreds of fireworks are lit and rural people; families and
visitors embrace to celebrate the arrival of Christmas.
For all the activity of Christmas Eve, Cusco’s Plaza de Armas is once again clear on Christmas
morning, as this is an important religious holiday and, as in many countries worldwide, a time to
be with the family. Houses are decorated with intricately carved retablos, or Nativity scenes, and
the Christmas feast is enjoyed by all: meat, usually turkey, served with apple sauce dressing, or
pork or lamb. The decorations of Cusco have many colors and all the times they use rural
decoration. All decorations are kept up until the “Bajada de Reyes” on January 6th, the arrival of
the three wise men.
If you are a visitor to Cusco during this time, you may be welcomed by the locals into their houses
to enjoy traditional Christmas festivities with them and their families. They will be warm and
hospitable with you. Strangers are often welcomed into a Peruvian’s home and, if you are lucky
enough to find yourself in this situation, you will experience Christmas as you never knew it before
and change your point of view about Christmas.
Luis González 3°A
