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AMIIT SONIAMIIT SONI
(LABORATORY DIRECTOR, IGTLJ)(LABORATORY DIRECTOR, IGTLJ)
http://www.igtlj.com/
GemstonesGemstones
GemstonesGemstones
http://www.igtlj.com/
Any non-metallic mineral or other natural
material (e.g., amber, jet, pearl) that can
be cut and polished for use in jewelry and
related products.
Mineral gemstonesMineral gemstones include: sapphire,
ruby, diamond, emerald, topaz, turquoise
and opal

With the exception of diamonds, most
gemstones are highly valued because of their:
BeautyBeauty
RarityRarity
TraditionTradition
Perception of permanencePerception of permanence
Why are some gems so expensive?Why are some gems so expensive?
http://www.igtlj.com/
New International
Version
New American
Standard
King James Young’s Literal
Translation
Contemporary English
Version
New Living Translation
ruby ruby sardius sardius carnelian red carnelian
topaz topaz topaz topaz chrysolite pale-green peridot
beryl emerald carbuncle carbuncle emerald emerald
turquoise turquoise emerald emerald turquoise turquoise
sapphire sapphire sapphire sapphire sapphire blue lapis lazuli
emerald diamond diamond diamond diamond white moonstone
jacinth jacinth ligure opal jacinth orange jacinth
agate agate agate agate agate agate
chrysolite beryl beryl beryl beryl blue-green beryl
amethyst amethyst amethyst amethyst amethyst purple amethyst
onyx onyx onyx onyx onyx onyx
jasper jasper jasper jasper jasper jasper
http://www.igtlj.com/
Aaron’s Ceremonial BreastplateAaron’s Ceremonial Breastplate
"Fashion a breastpiece for making decisions—the work of a
skilled craftsman. Make it like the ephod: of gold, and of
blue, purple and scarlet yarn, and of finely twisted linen. It
is to be square—a span long and a span wide—and folded
double.
Original Publication Date: 1913
Claimed that the twelve stones on
Aaron’s breastplate symbolized
the 12 months of the year, not the
12 tribes.
The Hebrew calendar
contains either 12 or 13
months in a year.
The Curious Lore ofThe Curious Lore of
Precious StonesPrecious Stones
http://www.igtlj.com/
94.83 CT.
$266.75
14.60 CT.
$737.99
Price per CT.
$50
Price per CT.
$0.35
January garnet rose quartzSiO2
18.61 CT.
$626.99
Price per CT.
$34
February
amethyst onyx
9.48 CT.
$9.99
Price per CT.
$0.95
SiO2
104.89 CT.
$7,854.59
Price per CT.
$75
March
aquamarine bloodstone
3.04 CT.
$12.99
Price per CT.
$4.27
SiO2
http://www.igtlj.com/
http://www.igtlj.com/
15.58 CT.
$93,230.99
42.53 CT.
$119.80
Price per CT.
$5,984
Price per CT.
$2.82
June
alexandrite moonstone
4,500.00 CT.
$2,528.75
1.61 CT.
$10,368.40
Price per CT.
$6,440
Price per CT.
$0.56
April
diamond rock crystal
SiO2
4.70 CT.
$29.817.83
4.57 CT.
$9.35
Price per CT.
$6,344
Price per CT.
$2.08
May
emerald chrysopraseSiO2
http://www.igtlj.com/
26.62 CT.
$18,688.16
13.06 CT.
$774.79
31.03 CT.
$23,236.19
18.97 CT.
$160.67
Price per CT.
$749
Price per CT.
$8
Price per CT.
$702
Price per CT.
$57
October
opal tourmaline
November
topaz citrine
December
zircontanzanite
5.84 CT.
$219.95
13.32 CT.
$6,681.99
Price per CT.
$502
Price per CT.
$38
SiO2

Diamonds would be moderately expensive for the same
reasons other gemstones are (beauty, rarity, tradition,
etc.)
However, the price of diamonds is artificially high due to
the blatant and highly successful manipulation of the
world’s largest diamond conglomerate: DeBeers.
The company maintains a virtual monopoly on jewel-
quality diamonds, controlling the supply to keep the price
high.
The company also has a series of highly successful
marketing campaigns (e.g., “a diamond is forever”) to
keep demand high.
Why are some diamonds so expensive?Why are some diamonds so expensive?
http://www.igtlj.com
http://www.igtlj.com
“A Diamond is Forever”
Besides their questionable business practices, DeBeers:
DeBeers and Injustice in AfricaDeBeers and Injustice in Africa
Officially “rejected” apartheid in South Africa, but exploited
the system to the benefit of the company (although not the
workers).
Continued to engage in apartheid practices at its South
African mines long after the apartheid government fell.
Supported the forced removal of the Basarwa people from
their traditional lands in Botswana, virtually ensuring the
destruction of their culture.
http://www.igtlj.com

The diamond trade has also supported both war and terrorismThe diamond trade has also supported both war and terrorism
Conflict DiamondsConflict Diamonds
Bankrolled some of most vicious civil wars in Africa over the last
few decades.
Was and perhaps still is used by al-Qaeda groups to raise and
move funds.
http://www.igtlj.com
BotswanaBotswana
AngolaAngola South AfricaSouth Africa
Dem. Rep. CongoDem. Rep. Congo
NamibiaNamibia
GuineaGuinea
Sierra LeoneSierra Leone
Central African Rep.Central African Rep.
TanzaniaTanzaniaLiberiaLiberia
Ivory CoastIvory Coast
GhanaGhana LesothoLesotho
African Diamond Producing CountriesAfrican Diamond Producing Countries
http://www.igtlj.com
Lesotho Intervention (1998)
Lesotho, South Africa, Botswana
First Congo War (1996-1997)
Dem. Rep. Congo, Rwanda, Uganda
(over 200,000 civilian killed)
Great War of Africa (1998-2003)
Dem. Rep. Congo, Zimbabwe, Angola,
Rwanda, Uganda, Namibia, Chad,
Libya, Sudan, Burundi (5,400,000
deaths
Angolan Civil War (1975-2002)
(over 500,000 military casualties)
Guinea-Bissau Civil War (1998-1999)
First Liberian Civil War (1989-1996)
(over 200,000 killed)
Sierra Leone Civil War (1991-2002)
(~75,000 dead)
Wars in African Diamond-Producing Nations Since 1990
Ivory Coast Civil War (2002-2007)
http://www.igtlj.com
http://www.igtlj.com
Human Rights Abuses by RUF (Sierra Leone rebel group)
Massacres, Individual Murders, and Fire-Related
Deaths
Burning Alive
The Use of Games to Maximize Terror
Mutilation and Amputation
Rape and Sexual Assault
Abduction
Targeting of Particular Groups
The Use of Civilians as Human Shields
The Use of Drugs by the RUF and Forced Drugging of
Civilians
Treatment of Prisoners
Violations of Medical Neutrality
Human Rights Abuses by RUF (Sierra Leone rebel group)
“Some of the atrocities committed by the RUF rebels were
unthinkable. Infants and children were thrown into burning
houses, the hands of toddlers as young as two were severed
with machetes, girls as young as eight were sexually abused,
and hundreds of children of all ages were traumatically
separated from their communities and forced to walk into the
hills with strangers whom they had seen kill their family
members.
In some cases children, many of them originally abductees,
participated in the perpetration of these abuses. Child
combatants armed with pistols, rifles, and machetes actively
participated in killings and massacres, severed the arms of
other children, and beat and humiliated men old enough to be
their grandfathers. Often under the influence of drugs, they
were known and feared for their impetuosity, lack of control,
and brutality. http://www.igtlj.com
27% of shops were able assure us that they had a policy on conflict diamonds.
30% of the shops that said they had a policy were unable to produce a hard
copy or explain it.
13% of shops provided warranties to their customers as a standard practice.
37% of the shops claimed to be aware of the conflict diamonds issue, but 54%
of them reported an inaccurate definition of the crisis.
28% of the shops were aware of the Kimberley Process.
29% of those who were aware of the Kimberley Process had only a minimal or
limited understanding of it.
When asked whether consumers inquired about conflict diamonds, 83% of
respondents answered rarely or never.
110 shops refused outright to take the survey.
National Day of Action on Conflict Diamonds
September 18, 2004
Amnesty International surveyed 246 stores in 50 U.S. cities:Amnesty International surveyed 246 stores in 50 U.S. cities:
http://www.igtlj.com
The majority of the top-selling US retail jewelers that provided information to Global
Witness and Amnesty International do not have adequate policies in place to
combat blood diamonds. A survey, conducted by Global Witness and Amnesty
International between December 2006 and February 2007, queried the 37 jewelry
retailers listed collectively by National Jeweler magazine as The $100 Million
Supersellers on their policies to stop the trade in blood diamonds.
56% of respondents had no auditing procedures to combat blood diamonds.56% of respondents had no auditing procedures to combat blood diamonds.
57% of respondents had no policy posted on their websites.57% of respondents had no policy posted on their websites.
50% of these huge retailers did not respond at all.50% of these huge retailers did not respond at all.
The survey also noted that a few industry leaders such as Helzberg Diamond
Shops, Sterling (Signet) and Tiffany & Co. have taken stronger measures to
combat conflict diamonds.
Conflict DiamondsConflict Diamonds
US jewelry retailers still not doing enoughUS jewelry retailers still not doing enough
Published February, 2007
http://www.igtlj.com
http://www.igtlj.com

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Gem Testing Laboratory in India

  • 1. AMIIT SONIAMIIT SONI (LABORATORY DIRECTOR, IGTLJ)(LABORATORY DIRECTOR, IGTLJ) http://www.igtlj.com/ GemstonesGemstones
  • 2. GemstonesGemstones http://www.igtlj.com/ Any non-metallic mineral or other natural material (e.g., amber, jet, pearl) that can be cut and polished for use in jewelry and related products. Mineral gemstonesMineral gemstones include: sapphire, ruby, diamond, emerald, topaz, turquoise and opal
  • 3.  With the exception of diamonds, most gemstones are highly valued because of their: BeautyBeauty RarityRarity TraditionTradition Perception of permanencePerception of permanence Why are some gems so expensive?Why are some gems so expensive? http://www.igtlj.com/
  • 4. New International Version New American Standard King James Young’s Literal Translation Contemporary English Version New Living Translation ruby ruby sardius sardius carnelian red carnelian topaz topaz topaz topaz chrysolite pale-green peridot beryl emerald carbuncle carbuncle emerald emerald turquoise turquoise emerald emerald turquoise turquoise sapphire sapphire sapphire sapphire sapphire blue lapis lazuli emerald diamond diamond diamond diamond white moonstone jacinth jacinth ligure opal jacinth orange jacinth agate agate agate agate agate agate chrysolite beryl beryl beryl beryl blue-green beryl amethyst amethyst amethyst amethyst amethyst purple amethyst onyx onyx onyx onyx onyx onyx jasper jasper jasper jasper jasper jasper http://www.igtlj.com/ Aaron’s Ceremonial BreastplateAaron’s Ceremonial Breastplate "Fashion a breastpiece for making decisions—the work of a skilled craftsman. Make it like the ephod: of gold, and of blue, purple and scarlet yarn, and of finely twisted linen. It is to be square—a span long and a span wide—and folded double.
  • 5. Original Publication Date: 1913 Claimed that the twelve stones on Aaron’s breastplate symbolized the 12 months of the year, not the 12 tribes. The Hebrew calendar contains either 12 or 13 months in a year. The Curious Lore ofThe Curious Lore of Precious StonesPrecious Stones http://www.igtlj.com/
  • 6. 94.83 CT. $266.75 14.60 CT. $737.99 Price per CT. $50 Price per CT. $0.35 January garnet rose quartzSiO2 18.61 CT. $626.99 Price per CT. $34 February amethyst onyx 9.48 CT. $9.99 Price per CT. $0.95 SiO2 104.89 CT. $7,854.59 Price per CT. $75 March aquamarine bloodstone 3.04 CT. $12.99 Price per CT. $4.27 SiO2 http://www.igtlj.com/
  • 7. http://www.igtlj.com/ 15.58 CT. $93,230.99 42.53 CT. $119.80 Price per CT. $5,984 Price per CT. $2.82 June alexandrite moonstone 4,500.00 CT. $2,528.75 1.61 CT. $10,368.40 Price per CT. $6,440 Price per CT. $0.56 April diamond rock crystal SiO2 4.70 CT. $29.817.83 4.57 CT. $9.35 Price per CT. $6,344 Price per CT. $2.08 May emerald chrysopraseSiO2
  • 8. http://www.igtlj.com/ 26.62 CT. $18,688.16 13.06 CT. $774.79 31.03 CT. $23,236.19 18.97 CT. $160.67 Price per CT. $749 Price per CT. $8 Price per CT. $702 Price per CT. $57 October opal tourmaline November topaz citrine December zircontanzanite 5.84 CT. $219.95 13.32 CT. $6,681.99 Price per CT. $502 Price per CT. $38 SiO2
  • 9.  Diamonds would be moderately expensive for the same reasons other gemstones are (beauty, rarity, tradition, etc.) However, the price of diamonds is artificially high due to the blatant and highly successful manipulation of the world’s largest diamond conglomerate: DeBeers. The company maintains a virtual monopoly on jewel- quality diamonds, controlling the supply to keep the price high. The company also has a series of highly successful marketing campaigns (e.g., “a diamond is forever”) to keep demand high. Why are some diamonds so expensive?Why are some diamonds so expensive? http://www.igtlj.com
  • 11. Besides their questionable business practices, DeBeers: DeBeers and Injustice in AfricaDeBeers and Injustice in Africa Officially “rejected” apartheid in South Africa, but exploited the system to the benefit of the company (although not the workers). Continued to engage in apartheid practices at its South African mines long after the apartheid government fell. Supported the forced removal of the Basarwa people from their traditional lands in Botswana, virtually ensuring the destruction of their culture. http://www.igtlj.com
  • 12.  The diamond trade has also supported both war and terrorismThe diamond trade has also supported both war and terrorism Conflict DiamondsConflict Diamonds Bankrolled some of most vicious civil wars in Africa over the last few decades. Was and perhaps still is used by al-Qaeda groups to raise and move funds. http://www.igtlj.com
  • 13. BotswanaBotswana AngolaAngola South AfricaSouth Africa Dem. Rep. CongoDem. Rep. Congo NamibiaNamibia GuineaGuinea Sierra LeoneSierra Leone Central African Rep.Central African Rep. TanzaniaTanzaniaLiberiaLiberia Ivory CoastIvory Coast GhanaGhana LesothoLesotho African Diamond Producing CountriesAfrican Diamond Producing Countries http://www.igtlj.com
  • 14. Lesotho Intervention (1998) Lesotho, South Africa, Botswana First Congo War (1996-1997) Dem. Rep. Congo, Rwanda, Uganda (over 200,000 civilian killed) Great War of Africa (1998-2003) Dem. Rep. Congo, Zimbabwe, Angola, Rwanda, Uganda, Namibia, Chad, Libya, Sudan, Burundi (5,400,000 deaths Angolan Civil War (1975-2002) (over 500,000 military casualties) Guinea-Bissau Civil War (1998-1999) First Liberian Civil War (1989-1996) (over 200,000 killed) Sierra Leone Civil War (1991-2002) (~75,000 dead) Wars in African Diamond-Producing Nations Since 1990 Ivory Coast Civil War (2002-2007) http://www.igtlj.com
  • 15. http://www.igtlj.com Human Rights Abuses by RUF (Sierra Leone rebel group) Massacres, Individual Murders, and Fire-Related Deaths Burning Alive The Use of Games to Maximize Terror Mutilation and Amputation Rape and Sexual Assault Abduction Targeting of Particular Groups The Use of Civilians as Human Shields The Use of Drugs by the RUF and Forced Drugging of Civilians Treatment of Prisoners Violations of Medical Neutrality
  • 16. Human Rights Abuses by RUF (Sierra Leone rebel group) “Some of the atrocities committed by the RUF rebels were unthinkable. Infants and children were thrown into burning houses, the hands of toddlers as young as two were severed with machetes, girls as young as eight were sexually abused, and hundreds of children of all ages were traumatically separated from their communities and forced to walk into the hills with strangers whom they had seen kill their family members. In some cases children, many of them originally abductees, participated in the perpetration of these abuses. Child combatants armed with pistols, rifles, and machetes actively participated in killings and massacres, severed the arms of other children, and beat and humiliated men old enough to be their grandfathers. Often under the influence of drugs, they were known and feared for their impetuosity, lack of control, and brutality. http://www.igtlj.com
  • 17. 27% of shops were able assure us that they had a policy on conflict diamonds. 30% of the shops that said they had a policy were unable to produce a hard copy or explain it. 13% of shops provided warranties to their customers as a standard practice. 37% of the shops claimed to be aware of the conflict diamonds issue, but 54% of them reported an inaccurate definition of the crisis. 28% of the shops were aware of the Kimberley Process. 29% of those who were aware of the Kimberley Process had only a minimal or limited understanding of it. When asked whether consumers inquired about conflict diamonds, 83% of respondents answered rarely or never. 110 shops refused outright to take the survey. National Day of Action on Conflict Diamonds September 18, 2004 Amnesty International surveyed 246 stores in 50 U.S. cities:Amnesty International surveyed 246 stores in 50 U.S. cities: http://www.igtlj.com
  • 18. The majority of the top-selling US retail jewelers that provided information to Global Witness and Amnesty International do not have adequate policies in place to combat blood diamonds. A survey, conducted by Global Witness and Amnesty International between December 2006 and February 2007, queried the 37 jewelry retailers listed collectively by National Jeweler magazine as The $100 Million Supersellers on their policies to stop the trade in blood diamonds. 56% of respondents had no auditing procedures to combat blood diamonds.56% of respondents had no auditing procedures to combat blood diamonds. 57% of respondents had no policy posted on their websites.57% of respondents had no policy posted on their websites. 50% of these huge retailers did not respond at all.50% of these huge retailers did not respond at all. The survey also noted that a few industry leaders such as Helzberg Diamond Shops, Sterling (Signet) and Tiffany & Co. have taken stronger measures to combat conflict diamonds. Conflict DiamondsConflict Diamonds US jewelry retailers still not doing enoughUS jewelry retailers still not doing enough Published February, 2007 http://www.igtlj.com