Documentation book with all of my own content, including writing and photographs.

5. The History, Ethics, and Future of Buying Clothes

6. @2024 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without permission.
The opinions expressed in this book are those of the author only and not those of York College of Pennsylvania.
This book is an experimental class project purely for educational purposes.
Design by Emily McDevitt
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7. The History, Ethics, and Future of Buying Clothes
Emily McDevitt

9. Introduction
Fashion, Trend cycles, Consumption
Fast Fashion
Working conditions
Other Concerns
Environmental Impact
Yardsales
Thrifting
Buying Used Clothing Online
The Future of Used Clothing
Final Thoughts
1
4
7
8
10
11
13
21
25
31
37

11. 1
Buying clothing is something that everybody has to do.
For some people, there is a desire to make buying clothing a
more fun experience. Using clothing to express oneself is
something many people do, and shopping for clothes and
finding different outfits that connect with your personality and
sense of style can be fulfilling. Spending some spare money
on clothing that brings you a sense of pleasure is an expe-
rience people can relate to. Retail therapy, a phrase used to
describe the act of shopping to improve your mood, is some-
thing that can come along with the joy of buying clothing. I
find myself shopping for clothing when I am having a rough
day, and it improves my mood if I find a nice shirt or cheaply
priced accessory.
Unfortunately, buying clothes, especially at a faster rate, does
not impact the world around us. Regularly buying new clothes
means there might be more space or the desire to keep such a
surplus of clothing. Based on this, there is a critical question:
What do people do with all these clothes they do not want to
keep? The sad answer to this question is that many people
throw their clothes away. According to the United States
Environmental Protection Agency, 34 billion pounds of textiles
are thrown away yearly in America. [1] When you do the math,
the average American produces 100 pounds of textile waste
annually. A small percentage of people will recycle clothes.
Another way people will get rid of clothes they do not want
anymore is to donate or sell them.
Donations of clothing can go to a variety of places. One place
donated clothes might go is a charity organization that focuses
on providing clothing to people who need it. These organiza-
tions provide clothing to people who could be facing housing
insecurity or people fleeing a domestic violence situation.
Another place that donations can go to is thrift stores. In certain
areas, you can find many donation bins in parking lots
for people to drop off unwanted clothing. Some thrift stores,
such as Goodwill and the Salvation Army, have become large
and spread throughout the country. Others stay small and
have more of a community-focused feeling. People also can
sell their clothes through a variety of means. Some people
choose to sell items online, whereas others might have a yard
sale to sell numerous items simultaneously.
When trying to purchase clothing at an affordable price, there
are different routes a person can take. One of these is buying
used clothing, which tends to be much cheaper than buying
brand-new items. Thrift stores and yard sales are the most
common places to purchase used clothing. Yard sales have
prices that can vary. Depending on the sale, some people can
buy clothes using just a quarter, and others can cost close to
retail prices. The quality of the clothing at yard sales can vary
wildly, with some clothes being permanently stained and others
being brand new. In a thrift store, the quality and prices of the
clothing are more stable.

12. 2
“With the rise of social media, what is seen as trendy
is constantly going in and out of style at a much more
rapid rate.”

13. 3
Many thrift stores will not accept clothes of inferior quality,
and prices tend to stay within a specific range. Depending on
how much time, money, and energy you have, different methods
of buying used clothes can benefit you more.
Another way that people buy affordable clothing is through
fast fashion and mass-market retailers. Fast fashion describes
the retail model of selling low-price but in-style clothing quickly
to keep up with trends. They can keep these prices low due
to the use of cheap labor. Mass market retailers are the retail
model of a business purchasing clothing in bulk to keep prices
cheaper. An example of this would be Walmart. The internet
has also changed how one can buy affordable clothing, as many
fast fashion websites have incredibly cheap clothing. Despite
the fashionable clothes these retailers constantly produce,
various issues can come with purchasing clothing this way.
Poor quality clothes, bad labor practices, and the perpetuation
of clothing waste are all things that come along with this.
One question that remains is why people feel the need to
buy new clothing constantly. Some reasons would be simply
having worn-out clothing or needing a new size; however,
another reason that has caused more people to buy clothing
at a faster rate is trend cycles. Trend cycles are standard for
fashion to come in and out of a fashion cycle. In the past,
certain fashionable items stayed in fashion for multiple years.
With the rise of social media, what the public sees as trendy is
constantly going in and out of style at a much more rapid rate.
Something that people used to see in style will appear tacky
within a span of a few months. This idea of a trend cycle means
that many people will want to purchase new clothes to keep
up with trends but also have clothes that are no longer trendy
that they will want to throw out. These rapid trends are known
as micro trends because they do not have the lasting power of
bell-bottom jeans in the 70s or chokers in the 90s.
Understanding the ethics behind buying clothes, as well as
the methods used to get rid of them when you finish using
them, can make a true impact not only on the environment
but on the working conditions of people as well. There is
no one proper solution to finding fashionable, clean, afford-
able clothing with no negative impact, as each person has a
different situation that might make accessing certain things
difficult. Despite no clear answer, everyone can still do their
part to reduce the negative impact of clothing waste and
overconsumption.

14. 4
“Trend cycles also perpetuate a consumerist lifestyle,
making people believe they always need something
newer, better, and more trendy.”

15. 5
Fashion is a cultural phenomenon that spans across cultures.
Wherever you look, you will find people with specific tastes
for what they wear. They can reflect what society values, and
just like values, fashion can shift, sometimes rather quickly.
Trend cycles are a part of this, changing what people see as
fashionable at a particular time. Companies and everyday
people perpetuate trend cycles through an individualistic
culture where people feel they must stand out and bring atten-
tion to themselves. The marketing in the industry exacerbates
this desire. Fashion brands and designers play a pivotal role in
shaping fashion cycles by heavily promoting new collections
creating a desire for their products. Marketing strategies,
such as runway shows, social media campaigns, and influencer
collaborations, influence society’s perception of what is trendy.
Trend cycles, while exciting at the moment, can have multiple
adverse effects. One of these massive effects is the stress that
it places on people who want to stay in style. The constant
pressure to look like you know the current trends, and in
turn, buying and wasting lots of clothing, can affect many
people. If somebody cannot access the newest and trendiest
clothes, they are quickly left out as trend cycles move faster
and faster. This phenomenon creates a separation of “haves’’
and “have-nots,” which detracts from the spirit of expressing
yourself through fashion. Constant exposure to idealized body
typesandfashiontrendscanalsoleadtobodydissatisfactionand
body image issues. People may develop unrealistic expectations
about their bodies, leading to low self-esteem and unhealthy
behaviors, such as extreme dieting or excessive exercise.
Trend cycles also perpetuate a consumerist lifestyle, making
people believe they always need something newer, better, and
more trendy. This lifestyle can cause wasteful spending habits,
where people spend too much of their money on keeping up
with fashion trends when they could put that money towards
something more useful. I have fallen into this trap before,
looking at my bank account and realizing that I have spent a
significant amount of money on clothing without even real-
izing it. This money constantly flowing to producers of trendy
clothing pushes the cycle further, making trends move quicker
to encourage more buying.
Outside of trend cycles, buying new clothes can also be done
for other reasons. Cultural events, traditions, and festivals
influence fashion consumption patterns. People often buy
new clothes for special occasions, religious ceremonies, or
cultural celebrations, contributing to increased consumption
during specific times of the year.

16. 6
Fashion consumption is not purely practical; it involves
emotional connections. People may buy clothes to boost their
self-esteem, celebrate achievements, cope with stress, or mark
significant life events. Emotional factors drive consumption
patterns. This drive means people might often buy clothes
when feeling a specific mood. Fashion items also often carry
symbolic meaning related to status and social identity. Luxury
or designer items like bags are associated with prestige and
wealth. People may consume fashion items to signify their
social status, belonging to a particular group, or adhering to
specific lifestyles. While not important to everybody, status
can play a massive role in the overconsumption of fashion
items and eventual waste.
The fashion world’s constant desire for new styles, Fast fashion,
and the rapid creation of cheap clothes to keep up with trends
are significant contributors. This cycle leads to a massive
amount of waste and pollution. The desire for a constant
flow of new clothing means the release of harmful chemicals
into land and sea and creating a large amount of fabric waste.
According to Earth.org, the number of times a person wears a
garment has declined by around 36% in 15 years [2]. This
decline in the number of wears a piece of clothing can indi-
cate how trend cycles have sped up the rate of buying, using,
and then eventually tossing clothing items. Fast fashion brands
are producing twice the amount of clothes today than in 2000,
which can also show a large chunk of the overconsumption
and subsequent trashing of clothing today [2].

17. 7
As mentioned, fast fashion is the massive high-speed and
cheap production of trendy clothing that many see often in
celebrity culture. Fast fashion differs wildly from the past,
where clothes shopping was more of an occasional event,
where companies made clothes to last long periods, both
fashionably and with the quality of the material. A significant
question arises: Why and how fast fashion became such a
staple in the fashion industry? To find out this answer, one
must look into the history of garment making. Clothing was
originally all made by hand, but with the Industrial Revolution
in the 1800s, the invention of the sewing machine and other
machines made clothing production cheaper, easier, and
quicker. [3] This change in manufacturing led to the creation
of many clothes-making factories and sweatshops with unsafe
conditions. One example that many people can think of was
New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in 1911, where the lack
of fire safety led to the death of many factory workers. Condi-
tions in the United States for these workers have improved,
but safety still is an issue in other countries with different
regulations. One thing that some might describe as the primary
catalyst of the boom of fast fashion is the internet becoming
widely available to most people. In the 90s and 2000s, online
shopping became massive, and fast fashion retailers found a
hub on the internet for selling cheap and quickly produced
clothing. Brands like H&M, Zara, and Topshop started selling
clothes, and the public demanded clothing items even more
as people could promptly purchase fashionable clothes from
the comfort of their homes and for very cheap.
Being able to spot a fast fashion retailer is something that can
come in handy when considering the ethics behind buying
clothing. Buying new clothing is okay, but paying attention
to where your money is going and how your consumption
affects the environment and workers is essential. A few ways
you can see if a specific online or in-person store is a fast
fashion brand is to see if they have thousands of different
styles that all happen to be the latest fashion trends. Looking
and seeing if the garments these companies produce fit a
trend that is happening that month is another way to spot
them, as this quick turnaround time from the start of a trend
to the selling of these garments in massive amounts is a large
sign that a store is a fast fashion brand. Checking and seeing
where the clothes come from can also be an effective way to
spot fast-fashion clothes. Searching to see if they create these
clothes out of countries where manufacturing is the cheapest,
using workers on low wages without adequate rights or safety,
is one way to see. Another way you can tell if a store is a fast
fashion retailer is to see how quickly clothes are being sold
and replaced. For example, a particular sweater might only be
in the store or sold online for a month before being removed
and replaced with a newer fashion item. This pressure can
cause people to feel like they need to buy the items they might
like, as it has a limited shelf life, furthering the fast fashion cycle
and demand for quickly made and cheap clothing. Looking at
the materials that make up these clothes can also identify a
brand as one that participates in fast fashion. Many companies
use certain low-quality materials like polyester and nylon,
causing clothes to degrade after just a few wears and get thrown
away [4]. Not all clothing made from low-quality material
comes from a fast fashion brand, but when combined with
some of the other items on this list, it can make it even more
apparent when a brand is producing low-quality and cheap
items at a fast speed.

18. 8
Behind the beautiful facade of fast fashion lies a disturbing
reality of labor exploitation. Many fast fashion companies
outsource their manufacturing to countries with lax labor
laws to keep production costs low. Workers in these regions,
often underpaid and working in deplorable conditions, bear
the brunt of the industry’s relentless pursuit of low costs and
high profits. The lack of workers’ rights and fair wages raises
ethical concerns about the human cost of our inexpensive,
trendy clothes. Many of these garment workers reside in Asia,
as they often need work to provide for themselves or their
families. These companies exploit these people because they
know that they will accept any conditions for very little pay.
Through force, these garment workers work 14 to 16 hours a
day, seven days a week. During peak season, they may work
until 2 or 3 a.m. to meet the fashion brand’s deadline. [3] Their
wages are so low that they can’t refuse overtime or risk not
having enough money to survive. In some severe cases, they
are not receiving overtime pay.
Unfortunately, not only adults are facing this, but children as
well. In some countries, labor laws are poorly enforced or
inadequate, which makes it easier for employers to hire chil-
dren and exploit their labor. Children who are living in poverty
might feel incredible pressure to help provide for their fami-
lies through these exploitative businesses. Child labor is heavily
used in the textile industry, as these companies consider it
low-skill labor, allowing these companies to justify low wages.
Workers face verbal, physical, and even sexual abuse in these
textile factories. They face punishment if they cannot meet their
daily target, which is often unreasonable for a single person to
produce. They can be denied water and denied breaks. Many
different health and safety issues arise from these working
conditions as well. This concern is showcased very well
with the collapse of the Rana Plaza in 2013, tragically killing
1134 garment workers in Dhaka, Bangladesh [5]. It collapsed
because these companies used substandard materials to build
on the site of a filled-in pond, and they did not bother to make
it safe because it was just full of garment workers. Employees
usually work without ventilation, breathe in toxic substances,
inhale fiber dust, or blast sand in unsafe buildings in various
ways. Accidents, fires, injuries, and disease are frequent occur-
rences on textile production sites, and these fast fashion
companies rely on this to keep costs incredibly low. In many
of these areas where the textile factories reside, workers are
not allowed to form unions to fight for their rights as a collec-
tive. Governments’ laws and specific regulations in export
zones where factories are established often restrict the creation
of unions, like in Bangladesh, where only 10% of the 4,500
garment factories have a registered union [6]. This lack of
unions means that these companies have a much easier time
exploiting these workers as the employees have no legal way
to push back against unfair and unsafe conditions. Factory
owners are often known to physically attack or threaten
union members or fire them to keep control. These threats
encourage employees not to create or join unions in fear of
retaliation because these workers are often desperate for
work. While fashionable and cheap clothing may be appealing,
it is imperative to understand that purchasing these clothes
perpetuates the cycle of worker abuse and horrible conditions.

19. 9
Caballero-Reynolds, A. (2022). Flickr. photograph. Retrieved 2023, from https://flic.
kr/p/2nQ2ZaY.
9
“Workers face verbal, physical, and even
sexual abuse in these textile factories.”

20. 10
Fast fashion encourages a throwaway culture where people
wear clothing items a few times and discard and replace
them with newer, trendier pieces. This culture of throwing
things away can be attributed partially to the fast produc-
tion of fashion items using low-quality materials and cheap
labor. The emphasis is on producing garments quickly and
inexpensively, resulting in clothing that may wear out, fade,
or lose shape after only a few wears and washes. Fast fashion
encourages impulse buying and often lacks the emotional
connection consumers might have with higher-quality, more
durable items. When there’s no emotional attachment to
clothing, discarding and replacing them is more accessible.
Some fast fashion retailers intentionally create styles that
mimic high-end or designer fashion trends. The purpose of
these styles is to be worn for a short time, discarded when the
trend fades, and replaced by the next fashionable item. All of
these things contribute to this mindset of disposing, which
contributes to the mounting problem of textile waste and also
undermines the value of clothing. Instead of appreciating the
craftsmanship and artistry involved in garment production,
there is pressure for consumers to view clothes as short-lived
commodities, perpetuating a cycle of overconsumption.
Cultural appropriation and property rights are an issue when
it comes to fast fashion. Beyond environmental and labor
issues, fast fashion raises ethical concerns about cultural
appropriation and intellectual property rights. Some fast
fashion brands have faced backlash for appropriating tradi-
tional designs and cultural symbols without crediting the
original creators. Additionally, the industry has been criti-
cized for copying designs from independent artists and small
designers, undermining their creative efforts and livelihoods.
Fast fashion contributes to cultural appropriation in several
ways, often by borrowing elements from diverse cultures
without proper understanding, respect, or acknowledgment.
This lack of respect for the cultural context can misrepre-
sent and distort sacred or meaningful symbols. Fast fashion
companies often reproduce traditional designs from different
cultures and sell them at low prices, making them accessible to
a broad audience. While accessibility is positive, these designs
are often commodified and stripped of their cultural context,
leading to cultural dilution. Fast fashion often mass-produces
clothing marketed as “ethnic” or “tribal,” which oversim-
plifies and homogenizes diverse cultural identities [7]. These
terms are often used broadly without recognizing the diver-
sity and complexity of the cultures they refer to. Fast fashion
companies often lack diversity in their leadership and deci-
sion-making positions. This lack of diverse perspectives can
lead to cultural insensitivity. Fast fashion brands also rarely
educate consumers about the cultural origins of their designs.
Murray, J. (2014). Flickr. photograph. Retrieved 2023, from https://flic.kr/p/pz15o9.

21. 11
One major issue with fast fashion is its incredibly negative
environmental impact. Because fast fashion relies on rapidly
producing inexpensive clothing, there is a high demand for
resources like water, energy, and raw materials. The produc-
tion of textiles, mainly cotton and synthetic fibers, requires
significant amounts of water and energy. Textile dyeing is
one of the most polluting aspects of the fashion industry.
Harmful chemicals from dyes and finishes for these clothes
often find their way into rivers and water bodies, polluting
water sources and harming aquatic life. Because fast fashion
encourages a “throwaway” culture where discarding clothes
after being worn only a few times, it leads to immense textile
waste. Textiles often do not decompose quickly in landfills,
further contributing to environmental problems. The produc-
tion of many of these clothes includes synthetic fibers, which
use chemicals derived from fossil fuels [8]. These chemicals
can be harmful to both the environment and human health and
further exacerbate the issue of global warming. Fast fashion is a
significant contributor to carbon emissions. From production
and transportation to retail, the entire lifecycle of a garment
emits greenhouse gasses.
There is also a demand for raw materials like wood pulp for
viscose and rayon fabrics, which can lead to deforestation.
Deforestation has severe consequences for biodiversity and
contributes to climate change [9]. ]Synthetic fabrics like
polyester and nylon in fast-fashion clothes shed microplas-
tics when washed. These microplastics find their way into
different bodies of water, where they can harm marine life
and eventually enter the food chain, posing a risk to human
health. The fast fashion industry produces enormous textile
waste, much of which is in landfills. When textiles decom-
pose in landfills, they release methane, a potent greenhouse
gas contributing to global warming.
“From production and
transportation to retail, the
entire lifecycle of a garment
emits greenhouse gasses.”
Grima, P. (2007). Flickr. photograph. Retrieved 2023, from https://flic.kr/p/4aELkA.

22. 12
“Yard sales, especially neighborhood-wide
ones, show that the community is active
and engaged.”

23. 13
Yard sales bring people out of their homes and into the yards
and streets. This physical interaction allows neighbors to
meet and talk, fostering a sense of community and belonging.
Yard sales also often involve neighbors buying from and selling
to each other. This exchange facilitates a sense of reciprocity
and mutual support within the community. Engaging in
transactions, even small ones like buying a used shirt or
furniture, can build trust among neighbors. This trust is
essential for a strong community bond. Neighbors take pride
in their community when they see others working to improve
it. Yard sales, especially neighborhood-wide ones, show that
the community is active and engaged. Yard sales provide an
opportunity for people to share resources and reduce waste.
Items no longer needed by one family can find a new home
with another, reducing overall consumption and promoting
sustainability. The community can turn yard sales into social
events. Neighbors can organize community yard sales where
everyone participates, turning the event into a social gathering
with food, music, and other activities. Neighborhoods can
arrange community yard sales to support local charities or
causes. This shared goal can unite people and create a sense
of unity in working towards a common purpose. Yard sales
can serve as a platform for sharing information. Neighbors
can distribute flyers or brochures about community events,
services, or essential issues during yard sales, enhancing
communication within the neighborhood. Participating in or
organizing yard sales makes people feel like active contribu-
tors to their community. This feeling of ownership encourages
individuals to invest more in the community’s well-being.
Regular interactions at yard sales can lead to the formation of
friendships and deeper relationships. As people get to know
each other, they are more likely to support and look out for
one another. In summary, yard sales provide a platform for
face-to-face interactions, resource sharing, and community
engagement, all contributing significantly to developing a
strong and connected neighborhood community.
While at a yard sale, I spoke with Dianne, who was also buying
clothes. She had seen me with my camera, and I explained
the process of my project and my passion for yard sales. Our
conversation was brief, but it captured the tradition and
passion of going to yard sales.
“So, how long have you been going to yard sales?” Diane had
asked me. I responded, letting her know that I had been going
to yard sales for as long as I can remember. I told her that my
mom went to yard sales and that her mom took her to yard
sales, too.
“I have been going to yard sales my whole life as well. My
grandfather used to be called Mr. Nickel because of how
cheap the items he was buying and selling. Everybody then

24. 14
14
“The conversations and the items themselves
can bring a kind of connection that you can
not get at a regular clothing store.”

25. 15
called him Mr. Dime because of prices going up. Many people
sell stuff they see as trash, but they always want things. I guess
now people would call him Mr. Dollar. I think it’s smart to buy
clothes this way because look at the price of bananas! If I can
save money on clothes, I can buy more food!” She told me.
I hadn’t looked at it this way before, but the tradition of going
to yard sales is a thing that is alive and well. There is a sense of
community that comes from yard sales. In a regular shopping
environment, you will most interact with the cashier, and that
is if you don’t go to a self-checkout or purchase items online.
At yard sales, many conversations will pop up with people you
might not have had the chance to talk to before. My family has
made some friends because we frequently run into certain
people at yard sales.
I remember recently going to a yard sale, and my mother
recognized the people selling their items. Every year, they
have a yard sale, and they sell name-brand clothing. My mom
knew their names and different stories about their lives, but
the only time they had ever interacted was at yard sales. There
was a pair of twins who always had a yard sale every year,
and my family had become so close with them that we could
quickly tell them apart, which even their neighbors admitted
they could not do.
The conversations and the items themselves can bring a kind
of connection that you can not get at a regular clothing store.
I have encountered sweatshirts for colleges, Cookie Monster
slippers, and multitudes of high-fashion shoes.

26. 16
Each of these items tells you a little story about the person
who once owned them. Sometimes, when you purchase some-
thing, you will get a tidbit of information about the clothing
as well. I have bought items with a sports team and then have
the person selling them discuss it with me. Because of these
small details, they can bring a feeling of community and make
your clothing feel more meaningful, knowing the story behind it.
Another thing about yard sales that is so interesting is how
people choose to present their items. Some people lay their
clothing on a blanket with a sign saying everything is a dollar,
whereas others have actual clothing racks rolled out onto the
driveway. Each item has a sticker placed on it. Seeing the orga-
nization of each yard sale may not seem important, but when
you realize that the whole yard sale is created by just one
person or a family, seeing the ingenuity to display the clothing
appealingly is something that I find interesting.
In a regular store, the design’s purpose is to maximize sales,
where clothing is organized and has little personality in the
layout. The differences between bins, tables, blankets, racks,
tents, and other objects people manage to find to present the
items they sell make the experience of buying clothes at a
yard sale more fascinating.
Yard sales help reduce waste and promote a more consum-
er-conscious lifestyle in various ways. When people buy
used items at yard sales, they decrease the demand for new
products, reducing packaging waste and the overall environ-
mental impact associated with manufacturing and disposal.
Buying clothes from yard sales helps challenge the concept
of planned obsolescence, where the design of the products
contributes to a limited lifespan, encouraging people to buy
replacements sooner. Yard sales fight against the idea of
limited-use clothing because yard sales show that multiple

27. 17
people can use clothes before they need to be thrown away or
recycled. Yard sales support local economies by keeping money
within the community. Instead of spending at large retail chains,
funds are exchanged between neighbors, supporting local
businesses and individuals. Yard sales often feature items that
somebody can repurpose or DIY projects waiting to happen.
This idea fosters a culture of creativity and self-sufficiency,
encouraging people to repair and refurbish items instead of
discarding them. There have been plenty of times that I have
found clothing that I would not wear in the current state that
it was in, but I knew I could turn it into something that I would
wear with a bit of love. Concerning the culture of yard sales,
when neighbors share items, it reduces the need for each house-
hold to buy every item individually, promoting a culture of
sharing and reducing overall consumption.
Participating in or simply visiting yard sales exposes individuals
to the idea that one doesn’t need to accumulate excessive
clothing. This exposure can lead to a shift towards minimalism,
a lifestyle that emphasizes living with less clothing and mate-
rial goods.
Despite the many positive aspects of yard sales, a few down-
sides can make it a less-than-ideal way for people to purchase
and sell used clothing. One of these is that organizing a yard
sale takes time and effort. From gathering items to pricing
them to physically setting up the sale, it can be a labor-inten-
sive process, especially for individuals with busy schedules.
People typically hold yard sales outdoors, making them vulner-
able to weather conditions.

28. 18
These variables can affect people wanting to sell their items,
and it might lead people to throw away clothing they might
have sold due to bad weather. Although the low costs are
ideal for the buyer, it can be something that can be negative
for the seller, as low profits can deter people from wanting
to sell clothes at yard sales. Another issue is that sales often
involve inviting strangers into your property, and while only
sometimes, it can invite security risks involving theft. Another
area for improvement is that all items not sold at yard sales,
which can often still be a vast number, are thrown away.
Yard sales, while being a sustainable and thrifty way to
purchase clothes, is also a way that allows one to expand and
experiment with their style in various ways. Yard sales often
feature vintage and retro clothing items from past decades.
Fashion enthusiasts and designers usually scout yard sales
for unique pieces representing different eras and styles.
These vintage finds can inspire new fashion trends or be worn
as statement pieces by individuals who appreciate the fashion
of the past. Yard sales also allow people to experiment with
their style. Shoppers can mix and match different items to
create unique outfits expressing individuality. Yard sales can
also feature items from various cultures and regions, reflecting
the global diversity of fashion. People can find clothing items,
accessories, and fabrics from different parts of the world,
allowing for incorporating diverse cultural elements into
personal style without feeling worried about exploitation, as
it comes from the source.

29. 19
19

30. 20
20

31. 21
Thrifting, or buying second-hand items from thrift stores, can
have a positive impact while still keeping you fashionable
and on budget. There is a culture around thrifting, and while
similar to that of yard sale culture, it can differ in some ways.
Thrifting fosters an economic thrift culture where individuals
seek value for their money. People can save money and be
more frugal by purchasing second-hand items at lower prices,
learning the value of resources, and wise spending. I noticed
that many people at thrift stores pay attention even more to
see if they genuinely want or need the items they purchase.
Thrift stores often serve as community hubs. People from
diverse backgrounds come together to donate, shop, and
volunteer, fostering a sense of community and belonging.
Something else related to this community growth is that
many thrift stores rely on volunteers from the local area.
Volunteers at thrift stores often form strong bonds with fellow
volunteers and customers, creating a close-knit community
centered around the store’s mission. Thrifting creates a shared
experience and connection among thrifters. Multiple pleasant
conversations can occur with people who might not have met
while sifting through items in a thrift store.
Thrifting promotes a sense of adventure and excitement akin
to a treasure hunt. Shoppers never know what hidden gems
they might find, creating a culture of exploration and surprise.
This experience is something that I love about thrifting, as
finding a perfect item for a great price can make the rest of
your day. I have seen other shoppers with wide smiles while
waiting in the checkout line, feeling they found a hidden
treasure in all the other items. It is a needle in the haystack
feeling once you find the item you love. This search and
eventual discovery can feel like a fun accomplishment.
Thrifting cultivates a culture of conscious fashion. By choosing
second-hand items, shoppers can opt for unique, vintage
pieces or trendy fashion without supporting fast fashion
practices. This choice promotes awareness about the fashion
industry’s impact on the environment and labor practices.
Some shoppers are drawn to thrift stores to find items that
evoke nostalgia, reminding them of their childhood, past
trends, or memorable moments. Vintage clothing, toys, and
décor items can trigger these nostalgic sentiments and can
add a layer of joyful memories that one might not get while
shopping in a store that is constantly updating its fashion to
keep up with the newest trends.
Something that is unique to thrift stores is that charitable
organizations operate many thrift stores, and the proceeds
often go toward community programs and social causes.
Thrifting thus supports philanthropic values, promoting the
idea of shopping with a purpose. These philanthropic ideals
are a part of many of the largest thrift stores and charity
organizations that participate in helping the community in
some way, either through donations or employment opportu-
nities. For instance, the use of the Peace at Home Thrift Store
layout to support the Peace at Home Shelter for victims fleeing
domestic violence means that proceeds from the store go
directly to the shelter. Many of these organizations are also
religious, meaning certain thrift stores might have religious
music on the radio or people handing out leaflets at the check-
out or exit. These spiritual and charitable themes are positive
and negative, as having these businesses run by organizations
that aim to help people in need is good. Still, if you do not want
religion to intertwine with your shopping experience, you
should look into different thrift stores to see what would be
your best fit. Something unfortunate about this is that some
thrift stores will market themselves as charitable organiza-
tions, but only a tiny amount of their profits will go toward
needy individuals.

32. 22
This lack of donations means that if you are interested in having
your money go towards an organization, researching how much
of your money is actually going towards a good cause can be
helpful. Despite this, even thrift stores that donate a small
amount of money are better than buying cheap clothes that
not only do not help improve the community but also actively
hurt the environment and underpaid workers.
Each thrift store you visit can have a different experience.
Some thrift stores are open like warehouses, with fluores-
cent lights, whereas others have a cozy feel with plants and
paintings on the walls as if it were a lived-in house. Because of
this, trying out different thrift stores to see what you value in
a shopping environment might be something you would like
to try. Cozy environments certainly do have their charm, but
there is also some benefit to a more minimalist approach to a
thrift store. The openness provides a feeling of cleanliness and
allows for space between shoppers. The minimalist approach
is something that I like about certain thrift stores, as buying
used clothes can feel slightly dirty at times, as people are not
sure who owned previous clothing or if it is clean before being
donated. Also, the people who work at the thrift store can add
to the shopping environment. Sometimes, the employees just
let you shop and are simply there to check out your items at
the register, but other times, they try to help you find specific
items. Certain stores can have a more hands-on feeling
depending on what you are looking for. I enjoy a shopping
experience where I can look independently, but I see the
merits of having somebody help you search for the item you
are looking for.
Something unique about thrift stores is the daily deals they
often feature. Many places have a system with colored tags on
their clothing; each day, a different color tag will go on sale.
The changing of tags can create a sense of excitement as there
is something new every day. There is something very fulfilling
about finding an item on sale that specific day and feeling
like you found a treasure. Also, with the constant influx of
new donations, there is always something new to discover or
look at. A continuous cycle of buying clothes is new clothes
coming in, allowing for a unique experience every time you
go thrift shopping.

33. 23
The styles from the past and present also come through,
allowing you to experiment, whereas, with a mass-market
retailer store, the styles of clothes are likely very similar and
only allow for a bit of experimentation.
Something that differs from thrift stores to yard sales is that
the prices at thrift stores are higher and have been increasing
even more since the COVID-19 pandemic. Items that used to
be five dollars at a local thrift store are now selling for around
10 dollars, which could be the price of an item at a mass-market
retailer or fast fashion online store. There are multiple factors
that can contribute to this. One of these factors is simply
the inflation of prices globally, as these thrift stores are still
businesses, so they need to adjust prices to still make a profit.
Especially after the pandemic, where prices of items such
as groceries have spiked, it has also rippled out to prices of
clothing at thrift stores. Another thing is that thrifting has
slowly become more trendy through online trends of people
showing their “hauls” of clothes from thrift stores and then
styling them. The positive of these online trends is that more
people are inclined to buy clothes from thrift stores. However,
the negative is that many people will look at these videos and
continue their overconsumption lifestyle but buy many items
at a thrift store instead.
This overconsumption can cause a variety of issues. The influx
of people purchasing an excessive amount of clothing at a
thrift store contributes to some of the same issues that fast
fashion does, but not only that, it causes strain on thrift stores
as well. If people buy more clothes than people donate, these
thrift stores can struggle to stay afloat [10]. They have tried
to adjust to this by raising prices to discourage people from
buying too many items. While this has worked for thrift stores,
unfortunately, it leaves people relying on thrift stores for
clothing with no other options. If they can not afford items
at thrift stores and need help finding yard sales in their area,
they might have no other option than to shop at fast-fashion
retailers, selling very cheap but low-quality clothes.

34. 24
“Participating in online resale platforms
encourages conscious consumerism by promoting
thoughtful and deliberate purchasing decisions.”

35. 25
In recent years, online resale clothing platforms have revolu-
tionized how people approach fashion consumption. These
platforms, such as Poshmark, ThredUp, eBay, and Depop,
provide a unique marketplace for buying and selling pre-owned
clothing items. There are many multifaceted benefits of online
resale clothing platforms, including emphasizing their contri-
bution to sustainability, community building, and the promo-
tion of conscious consumerism. Participating in online resale
platforms encourages conscious consumerism by promoting
thoughtful and deliberate purchasing decisions. Buyers are
encouraged to consider the value, quality, and longevity of
clothing items, emphasizing the importance of mindful
consumption. By understanding the story behind each
garment, consumers become more aware of their choices’
social and environmental implications, leading to a shift in
attitudes towards fashion. These platforms can benefit people
looking for particular items, as they remove a lot of the struggle
of searching through lots of clothing they do not particularly
like. If a person is looking for a particular shoe brand, for
example, instead of spending hours searching through bins of
shoes at a yard sale or thrift store, a person can find the exact
color, size, and type of shoe online. Unlike yard sales, where
the profit goes entirely to the person who owned the item,
and thrift stores, where none goes to the person who donated,
online shopping has something somewhere in the middle.
Most of the item’s profits will go towards the person selling
the item, but some will go towards the company that owns
the website. The marketing, photographs, and shipping are all
handled by the seller, which means that more effort is needed
to sell used clothing items on online marketplaces than simply
dropping them off in a donation bin. This increase in effort
might drive some people away from wanting to get rid of
their items, but many accept this because the money they can
make from online marketplaces is higher than that from yard
sales and thrift stores.
The seller typically selects the prices on online marketplaces.
Prices might go up on a website like eBay, as bidding wars
from other customers can drive a realistic price for an item
to one that might be too expensive. Prices can fluctuate
depending on the item, the quality and use of the item, and
how much the shipping will cost. Just like most businesses,
however, the idea of supply and demand applies here. The prices
will drop if there are many clothing items on these websites.
The fluctuation of prices, in general, can make shopping on
online marketplaces exciting and fun but sometimes stressful
and confusing. There can certainly be a learning curve when
it comes to online marketplaces, but after figuring out how
pricing, bidding, and selling work, it can become a straight-
forward and efficient way to sell and buy used clothing.

36. 26
Online resale platforms empower individuals to declutter their
closets while earning extra income. Sellers can turn their
gently used items into profit, promoting a circular economy
with a continuous circulation of resources. On the buyer’s side,
consumers can access high-quality, stylish clothing at a frac-
tion of the original price. This economic empowerment benefits
both parties, creating a sustainable buying, selling, and reusing
cycle that promotes financial stability and reduces unneces-
sary expenses. The prices on online marketplaces are more
expensive than yard sales and sometimes slightly more expen-
sive than thrift stores due to the addition of shipping costs.
Depending on your needs, dishing out the extra money for
shipping might be worth it for the ability to find specific
clothing items as well as having the ease of being able to do
all the shopping online rather than having to take time out of
your day to go shopping in a physical location.
Something unique to online marketplaces regarding used
clothing is that there are reviews from other customers.
These reviews can significantly improve trust when it
comes to buying items online. Seeing what other customers
have said about the items on sale or how reliable the seller is
can help make online marketplaces feel more manageable
for newcomers — being able to look at individual sellers and
see if they reliably send their items in the condition that
they say they are and are good at communicating throughout
the sale process can be a comfort. Reviews can also help as
reviews offer valuable information about the actual perfor-
mance, quality, and features of a product. Real-world experi-
ences shared by other customers can provide insights that go
beyond the product description provided by the seller. Some
individuals also include their own photographs of the item
or how the item works, which can be helpful as you can trust
other buyers to leave an honest review with photographic
proof. It can be helpful when sellers are accountable for the
quality of their products and customer service when reviews
are publicly available.

37. 27
It puts a pressure on sellers to be honest and not create scams,
as it will be on their page for any potential customer to see,
potentially ruining future sales.
Another great thing about purchasing used clothing online
is that it has no time or weather constraints. People with
busy lifestyles can only sometimes find time to go to thrift
stores or yard sales, but purchasing used clothing online can
happen anytime. This flexibility is especially great for people
with strange schedules or who might live in a different time
zone or areas with few yard sales or thrift stores. This accessi-
bility provides a place for people to purchase used clothing
regardless of how busy their life might be. Something rough
about buying clothing at yard sales or thrift stores is that the
weather can impact that. A rainy day will often stop people
from holding their yard sales, and stormy weather, in general,
might discourage a person from going outside that day if they
don’t need to buy clothing at a thrift store. Because of all of
the online shopping, these issues do not affect the buying and
selling of clothing. The weather may affect shipping times but
does not impact purchases.
Online marketplaces can be helpful for a variety of people
who have trouble shopping at in-person locations, whether
it be yard sales, thrift stores, or fashion retailers in general.
People who have different disabilities can use online market-
places to find fashion items without needing to overexert
themselves. This has been incredibly helpful for me, as I have
recently been finding myself with chronic fatigue and breath-
lessness, so shopping in person has become a lot harder for
me to do. Online marketplaces have helped me still be able
to buy clothing and other fashion items when I might not
have been well enough to spend hours on my feet searching
through clothing. It is also helpful for individuals with sensory
issues, as in-person stores can be loud and overbearing at
times, so shopping online can be great as they can buy cloth-
ing from the comfort of an area that might not be overstimu-
lating in that way.

38. 28
Also with online marketplaces, users can customize the
online shopping experience by adjusting text sizes, using
screen readers, and navigating with keyboards. This flexibility
caters to individual needs and preferences.
Another thing online marketplaces have that differs from yard
sales and thrift stores is that they are global operations, not
just local things. Because of international shipping, being able
to buy and sell items from people around the world is now
a reality. People from different backgrounds and who speak
other languages can find and sell items, which brings this
cycle of passing on clothing to a larger scale. However, one
negative part of this is that global shipping is not ideal for the
environment. It can be wasteful to ship a singular item across
the globe, contributing to emissions and global warming.
Not only is it not entirely suitable for the environment, but
international shipping is expensive, and that cost will likely
fall onto the buyer.
Resale platforms create vibrant and inclusive communities
of fashion enthusiasts, thrifty shoppers, and eco-conscious
individuals. These communities foster a sense of belonging,
encouraging the exchange of fashion advice, styling tips, and
sustainable practices. The platforms facilitate connections
between buyers and sellers, transcending geographical
boundaries and promoting cultural exchange. Through these
interactions, a supportive and diverse community emerges,
advocating for sustainable fashion choices and encouraging
others to join the movement. Despite this, sometimes, an
unfortunate downside to online shopping is the communica-
tion issues that can arise. Because all communication has to
be through online means, sometimes certain information can
be hard to understand or is too brief to get a good under-
standing of the item you are buying. What comes with this
lack of proper communication is, unfortunately, some scams.
Some people will use the lack of communication to their
advantage and tell limited information about an item in
hopes that they could scam people. Some people list items
that are in worse condition than they say they are or never
ship them. Thankfully, certain websites like eBay have ways to
combat these scams with the rating system and a team that
helps recover costs for scams for individuals. Understanding
how to spot scams and how to use these tools can help make
navigating and using an online marketplace much easier
and safer.

39. 29
29

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41. 31
Used clothing provides a solution for a variety of issues caused
by fast fashion and mass-market retailers. It allows people
to buy clothing for a lower price, which provides clothing for
low-income people or simply trying to save money. You also
know who your money is going to directly, as with yard sales,
you hand the money to the person who gets to keep it, and at
many thrift stores, you can see they use the money towards
donations or simply expanding the thrift store to more areas.
When you buy clothing on a fast fashion website, you might
not know who your money will be and if somebody will use
it for good reasons. Buying used clothes also helps reduce
textile waste, as buying and selling clothes keeps them in use
and out of the trash. If people are encouraged to sell or donate
their clothing, they will throw out less clothing, and hopefully,
this will produce less clothing. Of course, the desire for brand-
new clothing will likely never go away, but with the looming
threat of global warming, more people will be encouraged
to buy used clothes. There is already enough clothing on the
planet to clothe everybody, and if production of all clothing
stopped today, we would likely not need to worry for a long
time about how to find clothes. Slowing the production of
new clothing can be very beneficial because these factories,
especially those that use cotton, are a significant contributor
to the acceleration of global warming through the excessive
pollution they produce.
Buying used clothing has its challenges, however. One major
issue with buying used clothing is that it can not be very
inclusive. Finding larger sizes can be incredibly difficult, if not
impossible. Society often perpetuates stereotypes and stigmas
related to body size. This can impact the availability and
desirability of larger-sized clothing in secondhand markets.
People may be less likely to donate or buy larger-sized clothes
due to societal biases.

42. 32
People living in larger bodies might be unable to purchase
items at yard sales or thrift stores because the size range can
be small. This problem isn’t the fault of the thrift stores or
yard sales; it is a top-down problem. This is because, in reality,
the amount of quality plus-size clothing produced is minimal,
so the likelihood of someone donating it is even smaller.
In addition to this initial lack of plus size clothing, sizing
can vary widely between brands, and individuals with bigger
bodies may face challenges finding clothes that fit well and are
comfortable in a secondhand setting. There is also an issue
of thrift stores and secondhand shops not actively marketing
or displaying clothing options for those in bigger bodies. This
lack of representation can contribute to the perception that
these stores are not inclusive and can create a less inclusive
environment.
Something else that can be an issue with buying used clothing
is that it can be time-consuming. Finding worthwhile items at
yard sales can take a while. It requires visiting multiple sales,
often early in the morning, to get the best deals. Unlike tradi-
tional retail stores where items are organized by size and style,
thrift stores and secondhand shops often require more time
and effort to find specific items. Shoppers may need to sift
through racks or shelves filled with a diverse range of clothing
to find what they’re looking for, or even end up not finding
what they wanted at all. Looking through the disorganized
chaos of both yard sales and thrift stores can make this search
for good clothes difficult and time-consuming. Used clothing
may also vary in quality and condition, which means that
shoppers might need to carefully inspect each item for signs
of wear, damage, or stains. This activity can add to the time
spent in a thrift store or at a yard sale. There is also not a guar-
antee that you will find the item you are looking for, which
can be discouraging for people. This time-consuming activity
can be inconvenient for people with busy schedules, making it
inaccessible to those who are busy working or have lives that
can not fit a long shopping trip.
Another issue that arises when buying from used clothing
sources is that fast fashion, and in turn, the production of
cheap, low-quality clothes, is being cycled into thrift stores
and yard sales. This means that instead of being able to find
higher quality but still inexpensive clothes at different places
that sell used clothing, people end up buying cheap clothing

43. 33

44. 34
that costs about the same as it was brand new on a fast fashion
website or store. The saturation of low-quality clothing can
be incredibly discouraging for individuals who are looking for
quality clothing that will last, as it seems like fast fashion is
infiltrating many different areas and that the ability to buy
nice clothing at an affordable price is becoming a reality that
is harder and harder to obtain. Thrift stores specifically will
sort through clothes and might throw away or donate to textile
recycling items that are damaged or incredibly poor quality.
Because of the cheap materials these clothes are made of,
there is a possibility that even if you donate your fast fashion
wardrobe, it will still end up as waste.
The best way to promote sustainability is not to purchase
clothes, which is only feasible for some people. People are
trying to lower the amount of clothing and fashion items they
purchase, seeing what is more necessary and focusing on
buying fewer but high-quality, timeless pieces that last longer
instead of buying many different outfits that only fit with the
trends and are low-quality and can only last a few washes.
Choosing durable materials and classic styles reduces the
frequency of purchases and contributes to less waste in the
long run. Thrifting, swapping, and buying secondhand are
fantastic ways to extend the life cycle of clothing items. Still,
multiple things could make that process difficult or inacces-
sible to certain people, leading people to purchase clothing
via fast fashion or mass-market retailers. By embracing a
minimalist and mindful approach to our wardrobes, we can
learn to appreciate and make the most of the clothes we
already own. Mix and match, get creative with accessories,
and reimagine your style to reduce the need for new purchases.

45. 35
Remember, as consumers, we have tremendous power.
By choosing to buy less and support sustainable, ethical
brands when necessary, we can encourage the industry to
shift towards more responsible practices. Your choices send
a powerful message about the world you want to live in.
With the positive impact of purchasing used fashion items
and the general increase in people being interested in
sustainability and ethical consumption, thrift stores and
yard sales are on the rise. More people, especially the younger
generations, are interested in buying used clothing and
are pushing back against fast fashion. Despite some of the
challenges that purchasing used clothes can present, many
people see the good that buying used clothing outweighs the
negatives that can arise. The stigmas of buying used clothing
as “dirty” or “poor” are slowly getting dismantled, and having
more individuals purchase used clothing and donate clothing
can be incredibly helpful for society. Spreading this message
to others through face-to-face interactions with friends or
posting to social media and other online sources can help
promote a more sustainable and ethical way of purchasing
clothing. Fast fashion brands rely on consumers’ demand for
a constant stream of clothing, so if more people change their
mindset to realize that buying clothing secondhand is a better
option, these brands will have less power and ability to exploit
workers and endanger the environment.

46. 36

47. 37
The rapid rise of fast fashion has undeniably transformed how
we approach clothing, but it has come at a considerable cost
to humanity and the environment. This industry’s detrimental
impacts, ranging from exploitative labor practices to massive
environmental pollution, highlight the urgent need for change.
Fast fashion perpetuates a throwaway culture, exploits vulner-
able communities, depletes natural resources, and contrib-
utes significantly to climate change.
Our responsibility as consumers is clear: We must resist the
allure of cheap, trendy garments and opt for sustainable and
ethical alternatives. We can collectively disrupt the fast-fashion
cycle by supporting eco-conscious brands, embracing second-
hand shopping, and advocating for fair labor practices. More-
over, we must demand transparency and accountability from
fashion companies and encourage them to adopt ethical
production methods, prioritize worker rights, and reduce
their environmental impact.
Ultimately, recognizing the adverse effects of fast fashion
is the first step towards a more mindful and responsible
approach to clothing. By fostering a culture of conscious
consumerism, we can promote a fashion industry that values
quality, durability, and ethical standards over fleeting trends.
This shift benefits the planet and its inhabitants and paves
the way for a more sustainable and equitable future for the
fashion industry and society.

48. 38
Opting to buy used clothing offers many benefits that extend
far beyond just saving money. By embracing the secondhand
market, individuals contribute significantly to environmental
sustainability, reduce their carbon footprint, and promote
ethical consumerism. The thrifting experience allows unique
and diverse fashion choices and fosters creativity and individ-
uality. Moreover, purchasing secondhand items supports local
businesses, charities, and thrift stores, strengthening commu-
nities and encouraging economic growth. Additionally, buying
used clothing promotes mindful consumption, encouraging
people to think critically about their purchasing habits and
their impact on the planet. It challenges the throwaway
culture that dominates the fashion industry, encouraging a
shift towards a more circular and sustainable approach to
fashion. The fashion industry is resource-intensive, meaning it
requires large amounts of water, energy, and raw materials.
Mindful consumption involves choosing clothing items with a
lower environmental footprint, supporting sustainable prac-
tices and materials. As consumers become more conscious
of their choices’ environmental and social implications, the
demand for secondhand clothing continues to rise, fostering
a more responsible and eco-friendly fashion culture.
The benefits of buying used clothing are multifaceted, encom-
passing economic, environmental, social, and ethical advan-
tages. Embracing the thrifting trend saves money and
contributes significantly to a more sustainable and consci-
entious society. As individuals, by buying used clothing, we
can actively participate in creating a greener, more equitable
future for ourselves and generations to come.

49. 39
39

50. 40
40

51. 41
To close, the ethics surrounding the fast fashion industry
raise significant concerns about the environmental impact,
labor exploitation, and consumer culture it perpetuates.
As consumers, we can make conscious choices that promote
sustainability, social responsibility, and ethical practices within
the fashion industry. Embracing the benefits of buying used
and secondhand clothing is a compelling solution to these
ethical dilemmas. By opting for pre-owned garments, we
actively reduce our contribution to the demand for fast fash-
ion, minimize waste, and support a more circular economy.
Choosing secondhand clothing not only lessens the burden on
our planet but also fosters a sense of individuality and creativity
as we curate unique styles from existing pieces. Moreover, it
aligns with the principles of reducing, reusing, and recycling,
crucial steps toward a more sustainable future. Embracing
thrift stores, online resale platforms, and clothing swaps saves
money and promotes a greener, more ethical approach to
fashion consumption.
Ultimately, our purchasing decisions wield immense influence,
shaping the fashion industry’s trajectory and encouraging
a shift toward more ethical practices. By raising awareness
about the consequences of fast fashion and actively opting
for secondhand alternatives, we can contribute to a more
just and sustainable world where fashion choices reflect our
values and respect the planet and its inhabitants. Making
mindful choices in our clothing purchases empowers us to
be conscientious consumers, fostering a positive change
that resonates far beyond our actions, inspiring others to
join the movement toward a more ethical and sustainable
fashion industry.

52. 42

53. 43
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