1. Is organic food better for the climate?
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Organic food promises to be healthier and more sustainable. The European Union plans to
reach organic production on 25 percent of its agricultural land by 2030, up from 9.1 percent in
2020. The United States, in contrast, isnāt putting big bets on organic, which still represents less
than 1 percent of total American farmland. Instead, the USDA promotes climate-smart
agriculture by investing $1 billion in regenerative commodity pilot projects. But which is the
better move?
Organic requires too much land
Organic farming isnāt more climate-friendly than conventional agriculture when looking strictly at
emissions. In a comparative analysis of the environmental impacts of different agricultural
production systems, Michael Clark and David Tilman at the University of Minnesota found that
āorganic and conventional systems did not significantly differ in their greenhouse gas
emissions.ā But thatās not all that matters.
Land use is organicās achilles heel. The analysis concluded that organic farms require 25 to 110
percent more land to produce the same amount of food than conventional systems because
organic yields are lower. Thatās terrible news for the climate because land use comes with a
so-called ācarbon opportunity cost.ā
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When not used for farming, the same land could host natural ecosystems such as forests and
grasslands that store much larger amounts of carbon than agricultural soils. But agriculture
keeps taking over more and more natural ecosystems instead of returning fields to nature, thus
continuing to fuel the climate and biodiversity crises.
The resulting need to limit agricultureās land use ā alongside profitability concerns ā keeps
many farmers and environmentalists laser-focused on securing high yields. Advances in
breeding, pesticides and fertilizers, machinery and farm analytics have led to an impressive
yield increase over the past decades. For example, global soy yields have increased by 150
percent since 1961. Organic yields couldnāt compete with such rapid advancements, hampering
its growth.
Carbon costs arenāt the only concern
Why hasnāt this yield disadvantage deterred organicās advocates and practitioners, including
European legislators?
One reason is that organic farming offers many other social and environmental benefits. BIPOC
workers and rural communities suffer disproportionately from unsafe pesticide use on
conventional farms. Organic soils tend to be healthier, increasing their resilience to extreme
weather events such as floods and droughts ā an essential consideration as the impacts of
global warming will intensify over the coming decades. In low and middle-income countries,
moving to industrial agriculture doesnāt tend to deliver an overarching improvement in local
communitiesā social, economic and environmental conditions.
Many practices that are branded as regenerative have been cornerstones of organic agriculture
for decades.
Organic is also a more transparent way of promoting climate-smart farming. Many practices
such as crop rotations, intercropping, cover cropping, reduced tilling and composting that are
now branded as regenerative have been cornerstones of organic agriculture for decades.
Organic farming is clearly regulated, third-party verified and labeled for consumers.
While the system certainly has flaws, it seems to me that it would be much easier to continue
building on organic to support climate-smart practices rather than inventing a new regenerative
ecosystem of regulation, enforcement and communication. I wish more food brands embarked
on that path.
Other experts argue that the land use difference isnāt (or doesnāt have to be) as large as these
studies estimated and question the dominating āfeed the worldā narrative. They argue that we
need to consider the proper evidence to realize organicās superiority. Many indigenous
communities and smallholder farmers worldwide have successfully practiced forms of
3. agriculture that resemble organic farming and are often summarized as agroecology while
sustaining sufficient yields of nutritious foods. But those practices arenāt usually documented
and shared in academic literature, the primary resource that informs todayās mainstream farming
policies and practices, so it gets overlooked.
Whatās a realistic transition?
So there are a lot of potential benefits of transitioning more farmland to organic. But itās not
without pitfalls, as recent evidence from Sri Lanka suggests.
In April 2021, Sri Lankan President Gotabaya Rajapaksa imposed a nationwide ban on the
importation and use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, forcing farmers to go organic. But
Rajapaksa didnāt prepare the country for the transition ā organic fertilizers, education and other
resources werenāt available. Harvests plummeted and the country fell into a horrible food crisis.
Itās under debate whether an overall positive outcome could have been achieved with organic
agriculture in Sri Lanka if the transition had been managed better.
To me, the discussion boils down to a more holistic question on food systems change. How
deeply do we want to transform the system? And what kind of structural change is indeed
possible? Given organicās yield challenge and respective carbon opportunity costs, a large-scale
shift to organic farming seems untenable if we want to maintain (or even increase) current
harvest levels and consumption patterns. In that scenario, introducing some regenerative
practices to large farms while continuing to rely on synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, as the
USDA and many major agricultural companies promote, may be the best we can hope for.
But a better future for our lands and communities would be possible if we could revolutionize our
relationship with food at a structural level. Weād need to shift to regional, seasonal, low-carbon
diets that minimize food loss and waste and manufacturing emissions. Weād also need to double
down on nutritious foods rather than commodity crops such as corn, soy and wheat, which
provide calories but donāt do much to nourish people. Thatās what I like to believe in and work
towards. But on my less sunny days, this vision can seem more like a naive dream, given how
challenging and fragile even the tiniest sustainability wins can be.
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