1. Slow fashion movement for the market and
understanding consumer perceptions
JUI YI KUNG
S1439922
An extended essay submitted in partial fulfillment of
the requirements of MSc Luxury Brand Management
January 2016

2. i
ABSTRACT
This
study
undertakes
exploratory
research
in
order
to
analyze
the
perceptions
consumers
have
on
slow
fashion
products,
their
motivations
and
behaviors
regarding
ethical
purchasing
and
slow
fashion,
as
well
as
analyze
the
challenges
slow
fashion
faces
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry.
The
exploratory
research
is
carried
out
by
means
of
semi-­‐structured
interviews
and
a
case
study
will
be
performed
on
the
Company
H&M.
The
aim
of
the
research
is
to
develop
a
new
theoretical
framework
based
on
the
research
findings
which
in
order
to
understand
slow
fashions
position
in
the
fashion
industry.
The
research
findings
detailed
that
the
overall
consumer
perception
of
slow
fashion
was
that
it
was
often
perceived
as
being
more
expensive
and
of
varying
to
lower
quality
as
it
was
ethically
made.
Consumers
express
desire
to
engage
in
ethical
purchasing
however
their
lack
of
slow
fashion
product
knowledge
inhibited
their
ethical
purchasing
behavior.
It
was
further
discovered
that
product
placement,
pricing
as
well
as
the
physical
and
social
surroundings
impacted
the
consumer
behavior
towards
ethical
purchasing
and
slow
fashion.

3. This Dissertation is my own original work and has not been
submitted elsewhere in fulfilment of the requirements of this or any
other award
(13060 word count)
Signature: _________JuiYi Kung______________
Date: __________8th
Jan 2016_____________

4. i
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................... i
Chapter
1
–
INTRODUCTION .................................................................................1
1.1. Study
background................................................................................................1
1.1 Aim .........................................................................................................................3
1.2 Objectives ..............................................................................................................3
CHAPTER
2
-­‐-­‐-­‐
LITERATURE
REVIEW ................................................................. 4
2.1 Theories
in
the
context
of
fashion......................................................................5
2.2 Fast
Fashion
V.S
Slow
Fashion ............................................................................8
2.3 Slow
fashion
movement .................................................................................... 11
2.4 Two
elements
of
slow
fashion .......................................................................... 14
2.4.1 Ethics .................................................................................................................................. 14
2.4.2 Sustainability ................................................................................................................... 15
2.5 Slow
fashion
product
attributes....................................................................... 18
2.6 The
impact
of
slow
fashion ...............................................................................20
2.7 The
consumer’s
motivation
of
slow
fashion ................................................... 21
Table
2.7.1:
The
difference
between
slow
and
fast
fashion
consumers
(Modified
Jung,
2014)...................................................................................................................................... 23
2.8 Summery..............................................................................................................23
(Image
2.5.1)
Source:
The
Canada
Fair
Trade
Network.................................................... 24
CHAPTER
3
-­‐-­‐
RESEARCH
METHODOLOGY........................................................25
3.1 Aim
and
objective...............................................................................................26
Table
3.1.1:
The
key
research
of
this
study
is
restated ..................................................... 26
3.2 Research
philosophy..........................................................................................26
3.3 Research
approach.............................................................................................28
3.3.1 Inductive............................................................................................................................ 29
3.4 Research
methodolog ........................................................................................29
3.4.1 Qualitative method............................................................................................................ 30
3.4.2 Case study ........................................................................................................................... 31

5. ii
3.5 Data
collection
and
analysis .............................................................................32
3.5.1 Data
collection ................................................................................................................. 32
3.5.1.1 Primary
data
collection
–
Semi-­‐structured
interviews ................................... 32
3.5.1.2 Secondary
data
collection
–
Documentary.......................................................... 34
3.5.2 Data
analysis .................................................................................................................... 34
3.6 Ethical
considerations .......................................................................................35
3.7 Limitations ..........................................................................................................36
3.8 Summery..............................................................................................................37
CHAPTER
4
-­‐-­‐
DATA
ANALYSIS
AND
FINDINGS.................................................39
4.1 Data
collection
methods....................................................................................39
4.2 Consumer
variables
recognized
at
the
personal
and
situational
levels
toward
slow
fashion
and
ethical
purchasing............................................................ 41
4.2.1 Characteristic
variables................................................................................................ 41
4.2.2 Ethical
perception/consciousness ............................................................................ 42
4.2.3 Quality
perception/consciousness............................................................................ 42
4.2.4 Value/price
perception................................................................................................. 43
4.2.5 Social
surroundings ....................................................................................................... 45
4.2.6 Physical
surroundings................................................................................................... 45
4.2.7 Ethical
cognitive
effort.................................................................................................. 46
4.3 Case
study
–
H&M ...............................................................................................47
(Image
4.3.1)................................................................................................................................... 51
(Image
4.3.2)................................................................................................................................... 51
(Image
4.3.3)................................................................................................................................... 52
(Image
4.3.4)................................................................................................................................... 52
CHAPTER
5
-­‐-­‐
RESEARCH
DISCUSSION
AND
CONCLUSION ..............................53
5.1
Research
discussion...........................................................................................53
5.2
Research
objectives,
discussion
and
conclusion............................................56
5.2.1
Understanding
the
consumer’s
thoughts
on
slow
fashion................................. 56
5.2.2
Identifying
consumer
behaviors
and
motivations
toward
slow
fashion....... 57
5.2.3
Exploring
the
challenges
slow
fashion
faces
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry............................................................................................................................................ 57
5.3
Slow
fashions
theoretical
framework
–
conclusion.......................................58
5.4 Managerial
implications....................................................................................60
5.5 Limitations
and
recommendations
for
future
research ............................... 61

6. iii
REFERENCE............................................................................................................63
Appendix
1.
Ethical
Form ....................................................................................75
Appendix
2.
The
question
of
Semi-­‐structured
interviews..............................81
LIST OF TABLE
Table
2.7.1:
The
difference
between
slow
and
fast
fashion
consumers
(Modified
Jung,
2014)...................................................................................................................................... 23
Table
3.1.1:
The
key
research
of
this
study
is
restated ..................................................... 26
LIST OF IMAGE
(Image
2.5.1)................................................................................................................................... 24
(Image
4.3.1)................................................................................................................................... 51
(Image
4.3.2)................................................................................................................................... 51
(Image
4.3.3)................................................................................................................................... 52
(Image
4.3.4)................................................................................................................................... 52

7. 1
Chapter
1
–
INTRODUCTION
1.1. Study
background
Fast
fashion
is
currently
the
dominant
force
in
the
fashion,
textile
and
apparel
industries,
whereby
production
is
aimed
at
churning
out
products
quickly
to
meet
rapidly
changing
trends.
Yet,
due
to
recent
environmental
and
economical
worldwide
crisis,
more
and
more
pressure
is
being
placed
on
textile
and
apparel
industries
to
turn
to
ethical
and
sustainable
processes.
A
new
movement
has
started
to
grow
within
the
textile
and
clothing
fashion
industry
known
as
the
‘slow
fashion’
movement.
This
movement
focusses
on
the
aspects
of
quality,
ethics
and
sustainability
of
the
products
throughout
production
and
their
product
life
cycle.
Slow
fashion
and
the
movement
is
slowly
becoming
more
relevant
and
finding
placement
in
stores
as
clothes
deemed
as
‘disposable’
are
becoming
less
popular
along
with
the
decline
in
available
disposable
incomes.
In
recent
times,
more
and
more
pressure
has
been
placed
on
the
environment
through
the
consumption
of
natural
resources.
This
problem
can
be
funneled
down
to
the
current
level
of
mass
production
that
industries
are
now
achieving.
Similarly,
due
to
the
requirements
mass
production
needs
to
be
efficient
in
the
textile
and
apparel
industries,
ethical
shortcuts
are
now
also
known
issues
that
are
being
faced
in
the
textile
and
apparel
industries.
In
order
to
combat
the
pressure
these
industries
are
putting
on
the
environment
and
the
ethical
misconducts
therein,
more
and
more
companies
are
adopting

8. 2
ethical
and
sustainable
processes.
The
general
public
as
consumers
now
have
greater
access
to
publicly
available
information,
thus,
consumers
today
are
now
equipped
with
a
greater
understanding
of
ethical
conduct/behaviors
and
the
consequences
thereof
(Pookulangara,
2013),
and
thus,
more
pressure
is
applied
to
the
fast
fashion
companies
to
conform
to
practices
where
ethical
consumerism
can
take
place.
It
is
therefore
through
following
ethical
consumerism
that
sustainability
and
recycling
are
becoming
responsibilities
of
the
fashion
industry
(Ringstrom,
2015).
In
1986,
the
first
concept
or
origin
of
slow
fashion
had
been
founded
by
Carlo
Petrini
in
Italy.
The
main
purpose
of
the
concept
is
to
draw
attention
to
the
values
of
‘slow’
and
the
quality
of
life
for
people
(Fletcher,
2007).
The
term
‘slow
fashion’
was
created
by
Fletcher
(2007).
Slow
fashions
aim
is
to
be
a
sustainable
process
that
includes
the
planning
of
design,
the
selection
of
fabric,
the
purchasing
of
production
and
also
further
including
education
for
the
consumers
(Fletcher,
2010).
Slow
fashion
and
the
slow
fashion
movement
emphasizes
on
the
aspects
of
ethics
and
sustainability
during
production
and
throughout
the
products
lifecycle.
With
slow
fashions
increased
focus
on
quality
over
quantity,
it
is
slowly
becoming
a
replacement
for
some
fast
fashion
products
whilst
also
lowering
the
impact
on
the
environments
resources.

9. 3
These
days
there
is
an
increase
in
the
awareness
of
consumer
behavior
which
marketers
are
paying
closer
attention
to.
Shopping
activities
can
be
studied
in
order
to
identify
changes
in
consumer
behavior
in
today’s
continuously
developing
environment
within
today’s
competitive
marketplace
(Rintama
ki
et.
al.,
2006).
Thus,
a
changing
pattern
of
consumption
may
trigger
development
in
different
shopping
behaviors
relative
to
the
consumer
(Backstro
m,
2011).
It
is
therefore
important
to
understand
a
consumers
shopping
motivations
in
order
to
gain
understanding
on
slow
fashions
position
in
the
fashion
industry
and
the
challenges
slow
fashion
might
face
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry.
1.1
Aim
The
aim
of
this
study
is
to
develop
a
new
theoretical
framework
that
sheds
light
on
consumer
merchandises’
adoption
of
slow
fashion
based
on
the
understanding,
perception,
and
awareness
of
slow
fashion.
1.2
Objectives
1. To
gain
an
understanding
of
the
consumer’s
perception
on
slow
fashion.
2. To
identify
consumer
behaviors
and
motivations
toward
slow
fashion.
3. To
explore
the
consumer
concerns
slow
fashion
faces
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry.

10. 4
CHAPTER
2
-­‐-­‐-­‐
LITERATURE
REVIEW
Chapter
one
has
provided
an
overview
on
the
research.
From
this
introduction
it
is
crucial
to
understand
that
the
literature
review
can
be
connected
with
the
aim
and
object
of
this
study.
There
are
seven
sections
within
this
chapter.
First
this
review
will
start
with
an
overview
on
the
main
theories
that
drive
consumption
behaviors
in
the
context
of
fashion.
The
following
part
of
the
chapter
will
elaborate
on
the
concepts
of
slow
fashion
in
comparison
with
fast
fashion.
Moreover,
it
will
highlight
the
main
factors
that
led
to
the
rise
of
slow
fashion.
Following
that
section,
the
chapter
will
focus
on
the
two
elements
of
slow
fashion
which
are
ethics
and
sustainability.
Thus,
in
the
section
that
follows,
the
product
attributes
of
slow
fashion
will
be
further
discussed.
Furthermore,
in
order
to
supplement
the
application
of
the
new
actuarial
methods,
the
sixth
section
will
contain
an
overview
of
the
impact
of
slow
fashion.
Lastly,
the
final
section
of
this
chapter
will
elaborate
consumers’
motivations
for
slow
fashion.

11. 5
2.1 Theories
in
the
context
of
fashion
In
academic
literature,
fashion
can
be
defined
by
several
definitions,
which
are,
fashion
behavior,
a
function
of
social
and
period,
and
a
process
of
contemporary
trendsetters
(Lewis,
Kerr
and
Burgess,
2013).
Furthermore,
some
researchers
stated
that
fashion
could
be
a
target
for
consumers
seeking
attention
through
consumption
(Woodside
and
Ko,
2013;
Hornig,
Fischer
and
Schollmeyer,
2013)
The
term
‘fashion’
can
be
difficult
to
define
as
it
has
varied
meanings
for
different
people.
Although,
the
fashion
theory
has
been
incorporated
from
many
different
disciplines,
such
as
anthropology,
social
sciences
and
history
of
the
arts.
Thus,
for
research
purposes,
this
studies
primary
emphasis
will
focus
on
consumer
behavior.
According
to
Simmel
(1957),
Fashion
trends
are
usually
lead
by
the
ethic
group
with
the
highest
social
status.
This
usually
lead
to
the
influencing
of
subordinate
groups
who
aimed
to
imitate
the
style
or
status
of
the
upper
class
to
enhance
their
social
status.
This
effect
of
fashion
was
called
the
trickle-­‐down
theory.
However,
there
are
two
researchers
who
argued
against
this
effect
of
the
trickle-­‐down
theory
(King,
1969
and
Blumer,
1969).
They
argued
that
fashion
should
be
available
for
any
social
status
and
that
the
media
helps
new
styles
to
be
implemented
as
trends
to
each
level
of
society
at
the
same
time.
Blumer
(1969)
also
considered
that
clothing
does
not
take
its
prestige
from
the

12. 6
elite,
but
instead,
its
‘potential
fashionableness’
is
determined
by
factors
that
are
out
of
the
elite’s
control.
Consumers
choices
and
decisions
could
be
driven
by
ethnic
groups
with
the
aim
of
gaining
social
acceptance
rather
than
only
high
social
status
(Kaiser,
Nagasawa
and
Hutton,
1995).
Similarly,
Sproles
(1974)
indicated
that
fashion
could
be
defined
as
a
process
by
consumer’s
collective
selection,
though
the
fashion
behavior
could
be
causation
for
consumer
choice
decisions.
Sproles
(1981)
proposed
the
fashion
could
be
created
by
different
cultures,
lifestyles
or
any
kind
of
artistic
excellence.
Sproles
also
developed
a
conceptual
framework,
“Fashion
Theory”,
based
on
setting
basic
constructs
and
structured
concepts
in
a
contemporary
theory
of
fashion,
stating
it
as
creative
concept,
a
tangible
or
intangible
diffusion
in
contemporary
style
and
influence
of
society.
Furthermore,
Davis
(1992)
proposed
the
“Fashion
Systems
Model”
in
order
to
analyze
consumers’
choices
and
to
evaluate
their
needs.
Through
the
fashion
systems
model,
consumers
can
influence
social
economy
or
new
lifestyle
movements.
He
also
noted
that
fashion
might
be
encouraged
by
contemporary
trendsetters.
One
trend
that
can
be
said
to
have
been
established
by
contemporary
trendsetters
was
the
new
movement
called
“slow
fashion”,
which
will
be
discussed
later
in
this
study.
Conspicuous
consumption
is
a
way
of
showing
off
ones’
social
status.
This
applies
most
when
the
items
are
on
visible
display
to
the
public
and
can
be
recognized
as
being
too
expensive
for
someone

13. 7
that
is
in
the
same
class
as
the
wearer.
This
kind
of
consumption
is
usually
associated
with
the
rich
but
can
also
be
applied
to
any
economic
class.
Thus,
through
the
conspicuous
consumption,
the
consumer
can
camouflage
themselves
to
gain
higher
or
special
status
of
fashion
(Crane,
1999).
As
mentioned
before,
the
primary
state
of
conspicuous
consumption
is
the
focus
on
personal
traits
which
is
used
to
present
evidence
of
ones’
wealth.
(O’Cass
and
McEwen,
2004).
Further,
even
as
fashion
behavior
is
a
major
function
of
social
status,
Sproles
(1985)
deemed
that
fashion
could
be
an
expression
of
ego,
personality
attitudes,
or
even
a
demonstration
of
personal
creativity.
However,
consumers
are
constantly
expanding
demand
for
fashion
products,
which
led
them
to
start
to
search
for
fast
and
cheap
fashion
(Zarley
Watson
and
Yan,
2013),
calling
this
trend,
fast
fashion.
Polhemus
and
Procter
(1978)
stated
that
it
would
be
a
new
fashion
trend
for
consumers
to
change
their
buying
behavior,
and
therefore,
Morgan
and
Birtwistle
(2009)
stated
that
fast
fashion
is
successfully
entering
the
consumer
groups
due
to
lower
prices
and
rapid
mass
market
production
especially
for
the
younger
group.
Nonetheless,
faced
with
problems
arising
from
mass
production,
some
of
the
consumers
are
aware
that
the
need
for
clothing
recycling
can
slow
down
the
excessive
waste
of
resources
generated
by
manufacturing
(Joy
et
al.,
2012).
Hence,
the
“ethical
consumerism”
is
becoming
a
new
movement
in
recent
years (Clarke,
2008;
Strong,
1996)
The
studies
show
that
there
are
more
and
more
green’
products
that
consumers
are
willing
to
purchase
for
this
new
movement
known
as
“slow
fashion”
(Jin
Gam
et

14. 8
al.,
2009
and
Kahn,
2009).
Slow
fashion
often
ties
in
with
ethical
consumerism
which
is
the
conscious
consumption
or
purchasing
of
products
and
services
that
are
manufactured
in
a
manner
that
lowers
environmental
and
social
damage
whilst
purposefully
staying
away
from
products
and
services
that
are
known
to
cause
damage
to
the
environment
or
have
a
negative
impact
on
society.
It
is
therefore
through
following
ethical
consumerism
that
sustainability
and
recycling
are
becoming
responsibilities
of
the
fashion
industry
(Ringstrom,
2015).
The
next
section
will
demonstrate
and
compare
the
concepts
of
fast
and
slow
fashion.
2.2 Fast
Fashion
V.S
Slow
Fashion
As
previously
mentioned,
there
are
two
fashion
trends
that
have
developed
over
the
past
decade,
fast
fashion
and
slow
fashion.
This
section
will
explain
the
difference
between
fast
and
slow
fashion.
The
concept
of
fast
fashion
is
a
unique
business
model
in
the
fashion
industry.
A
retailer,
who
takes
on
a
fast
fashion
business
model,
usually
has
a
fast
responding
supply
chain
that
is
able
to
provide
quick
supply
to
consumer
demands
and
emerging
fashion
trends
by
delivering
fashion
items
to
retailers
with
a
lead
time
of
around
a
few
weeks
(levy
and
Weitz,
2004).
Due
to
globalization
and
technology
development
the
fast
fashion
in
the
retail
industry
is
able
to
get
a
large
number
of
products
at
lower
costs
with
continuous
supply
to
consumers.
This
enables
consumers
to
get
the
newest
styles
with
the
lowest

15. 9
price.
Over
the
past
five
years,
the
fast
fashion
market
has
seen
growth
of
over
45
percent
because
low
pricing
has
changed
the
way
consumers
perceived
the
value
of
textile
or
clothing,
thus
resulting
in
a
“rapid
discard
culture”
(Fletcher,
2010).
According
to
Cline
(2012),
every
year
13
million
tons
of
textiles
or
apparels
are
wasted,
when
only
15
percent
will
be
donated
and
20
percent
to
be
resold.
Fast
fashions
primary
aim
is
to
reduce
the
production
cycle
and
use
the
shortest
time
to
getting
a
new
fashion
product
out
to
satisfy
their
consumers’
needs
(Barnes
and
Lea-­‐Greenwood,
2006).
Some
fast
fashion
retailers
(such
as
Zara,
Forever
21
and
H&M
etc.)
produce
products
that
are
imitations
of
some
of
the
high-­‐end
styles
but
market
them
at
lower
prices
to
the
consumers
(Barnes
and
Lea-­‐Greenwood,
2006;
Barnes
and
Lea-­‐Greenwood,
2010
and
Sheridan,
Moore
and
Nobbs,
2006).
Hence,
Following
the
growing
market
of
fast
fashion,
the
manufacturers
are
simply
wasting
resources
due
to
lower
prices
and
the
products
becoming
easily
accessible.
Many
scholars
point
out
that
fast
fashion
consumers
are
not
concerned
about
the
recycling
and
quality
of
the
apparel
products (Bianchi
and
Birtwistle,
2010
and
2011;
Laitala,
2014;
Joung
and
Park-­‐Poaps,
201;
Lang,
Armstrong
and
Brannon,
2013)
For
this
reason,
the
items
of
fast
fashion
are
usually
quickly
discarded
without
any
form
of
recycling
taking
place.
This
is
because
the
consumers
purchase
more
than
they
need
(Chang
and
Jai,
2015;
Joung,
2014;
Kim,
Jung
Choo
and
Yoon,
2013).
Studies
indicate
that
many
consumers
do
not
know
how
to
recycle
their
fast
fashion
products,
even

16. 10
though
it
is
usually
an
environmental
issue
that
makes
consumers
show
concern
(Goworek
et
al.,
2012).
Kim
and
Damhorst
(1998)
stated
that
there
are
more
and
more
consumers
willing
to
pay
more,
and
stand
with
a
positive
attitude
towards
the
environment
while
siding
with
‘green’
products.
Thus
with
the
change
in
consumer
behavior,
retail
industry
consumption
patterns
also
face
a
tipping
point
for
a
new
type
of
consumer.
On
the
other
hand,
slow
fashion
does
not
operate
under
the
same
fashion
business
strategy
as
fast
fashion
does,
yet
it
doesn’t
also
mean
“slow
fashion”
or
even
efficiency
and
trendiness.
It
is
in
fact
based
on
quality
(Pookulangara
and
Shepherd,
2013).
In
1986,
the
first
concept
or
origin
of
slow
fashion
had
been
founded
by
Carlo
Petrini
in
Italy.
The
main
purpose
of
the
concept
is
to
draw
attention
to
the
values
of
‘slow’
and
the
quality
of
life
for
people
(Fletcher,
2007).
The
term
‘slow
fashion’
was
created
by
Fletcher
(2007)
“Slow
fashion
is
about
designing,
producing,
consuming
and
living
better.
Slow
fashion
is
not
time-­‐based
but
quality-­‐based.
Slow
is
not
the
opposite
of
fast
but
a
different
approach
in
which
designers,
buyers,
retailers
and
consumers
are
more
aware
of
the
impacts
of
products
on
workers,
communities
and
ecosystems”.
More,
Clark
(2008)
stated
that
slow
fashions
aim
is
not
meant
to
slow
the
supply
chain
of
apparel
or
textile,
but
rather,
to
help
create
a
completely
sustainable
process
for
the
fashion
industry.
It
is
to
be
a
sustainable
process
that
includes
the
planning
of
design,
the
selection
of
fabric,
the
purchasing
of
production
and
also
further
including
education
for

17. 11
the
consumers
(Fletcher,
2010).
Accordingly,
the
major
pillar
of
slow
fashion
is
replacing
quantity
with
quality,
through
the
slower
production
to
validate
the
value
of
the
sustainable.
As
stated
by
Zarley
Watson
and
Yan
(2013),
the
slow
fashion
consumer
who
selects
to
purchase
a
high
quality
sustainable
product,
shows
the
attachment/importance
thereof.
The
same
consumer
would
rather
pass
along,
donate,
resell
or
reuse
those
clothes.
Slow
fashion
is
not
a
blindly
followed
fashion
trend,
but
a
change
in
mentality.
When
consumers
purchase
slow
fashion
apparel,
it
is
often
with
the
thought
of
the
sustainability
of
the
product
(Pookulangara
and
Shepherd,
2013).
Hence,
there
is
a
new
movement
known
as
the
“slow
fashion
movement”,
linked
to
a
generation
that
has
an
awareness
of
the
sustainability
and
responsibilities
in
the
fashion
industry
(Henninger,
2015;
Pookulangara
and
Shephard,
2013;
Turker
and
Altuntas,
2014).
2.3 Slow
fashion
movement
From
the
previous
section,
we
can
see
that
slow
fashion
is
becoming
a
new
fashion
trend
in
the
apparel
and
textile
industry
to
this
present
day.
Some
scholars
indicate
that
the
positive
thinking
of
slow
fashion
consumer
behavior
could
aid
the
growth
of
sustainability
positioning
strategies
(Chang
and
Jai,
2015;
Goworek
et
al.,
2012;
McNeill
and
Moore,
2015).
Slow
fashion
is
not
a
fashion
trend
only
for
a
season
but
a
concept
to
break
consumerist,
thus,
the
term
“slow
fashion
movement”
was
created
by
Kate
Fletcher,
the
author
of
the
book
“Sustainable
fashion
and
textiles,
Design
Journeys”
(2008).
She
mentioned
that

18. 12
the
slow
fashion
movement
is
an
innovative
idea
based
on
sustainable
values
to
design
textiles
and
wears.
Moreover,
Fletcher
stated
that
slow
fashion
is
a
subsystem
that
should
be
considered
within
the
framework
of
economic
and
social
systems,
whilst,
slow
fashion
could
also
be
a
choice,
lifestyle,
cultural
diversity
or
identity
(Fletcher,
2010).
Therefore,
the
slow
fashion
movement
is
a
condition
about
the
“ethical”,
“sustainable”
and
“green/eco”.
The
movements
major
aim
is
from
“quantity
to
quality”,
but
also
to
advocate
the
use
of
alternative
materials
for
the
fashion
products
with
awareness
and
responsibility.
A
slow
fashion
supply
chain
should
ideally
be
run
with
the
‘slow
fashion
values’.
Zarley
Watson
and
Yan
(2013)
indicated
that
slow
fashion
isn’t
just
a
different
way
to
describe
ethical
fashion
and
is
not
the
direct
opposite
of
fast
fashion
either,
but
is
rather
a
change
in
direction
for
the
textile
and
apparel
industries
to
work
in
a
more
thoughtful
manner,
from
retailer
to
consumer,
to
be
functional
at
all
levels
within
the
apparel
and
textile
industries.
The
slow
fashion
movement
is
a
decision
and
thinking
according
to
the
larger
environmental
and
social
systems,
and
through
collective
behavior,
it
is
possible
to
influence
the
people
and
ecosystems.
From
this
perspective,
the
slow
fashion
movement
could
also
encourage
small-­‐scale
production,
independent
designers,
traditional
craftsmanship
or
local
fabrics
and
markets
(Fletcher,
2010).
The
slow
movement
is
a
foundation
that
is
laid
from
different
fashion
values.
It
could
include
ethical,
sustainable
development
and
environmental
care
practices

19. 13
into
slow
fashion
products.
Again,
through
emphasis
on
the
quality
and
craftsmanship
of
production,
slow
fashion
can
educate
consumers
to
change
their
shopping
habits.
There
are
more
and
more
new
slow
fashion
consumers
starting
to
take
care
in
noticing
the
quality
of
apparel
and
how
they
are
made
(Gargi
and
Ha-­‐Brookshire,
2011).
Therefore,
production
transparency
is
a
key
element
for
slow
fashion
(Williams,
Baldwin
and
Fletcher,
2009).
A
corporation
has
responsibilities
as
an
organization
for
its
decisions
and
activities
regarding
the
impact
it
has
on
society,
the
environment
as
well
as
the
organizations
own
well-­‐being
or
prosperity,
known
as
Corporate
Social
Responsibility
(CSR).
Thus,
CSR
goes
hand
in
hand
with
accountability
throughout
the
fashion
industry
which
has
brought
forth
an
increase
in
the
requirement
for
supply
chain
transparency
(Perry
and
Towers,
2009).
Moreover,
based
on
the
CSR
perspective,
slow
fashion
will
need
to
focus
on
two
elements
which
are
“ethics”
and
“sustainability”.
According
to
Fletcher
(2007)
slow
fashion
is
to
build
mutually
beneficial
relationships
between
consumers,
laborers,
suppliers
and
even
the
ecological
environment.

20. 14
2.4 Two
elements
of
slow
fashion
Slow
fashion
is
not
only
just
a
concept,
but
a
revolution
process
in
the
present
day (Audretsch
et
al.,
2012;
Fletcher,
2008;
Godart,
2015).
Slow
fashions
aim
is
to
provide
great
values
for
society
and
the
environment
through
slow
products.
There
are
two
indispensable
elements,
“ethics”
and
“sustainability”.
Those
two
elements
carry
both
requirements
and
opportunities
in
the
fashion
industry
(Willliams,
Baldwin
and
Fletcher,
2009).
Many
researchers
have
stated
that
as
a
sustainable
firm,
it
is
impossible
to
be
sustainable
without
being
ethical
(Svensson,
Wood
and
Callaghan,
2010).
Thus,
for
slow
fashion,
ethics
and
sustainability
are
inseparable,
both
of
which
will
be
explained
further.
2.4.1 Ethics
When
ethics
is
mentioned,
it
is
the
thinking/beliefs
that
deal
with
aspects
relating
to
the
actions
that
humans
take
and
the
way
we
conduct
ourselves
in
regards
to
what
is
right
and
what
is
wrong
in
performing
those
actions.
Ethics
also
take
into
account
how
good
or
how
bad
the
motives
behind
the
actions
are.
Dowd
and
Burke
(2013)
stated
that
the
consumers
could
feel
a
greater
sense
of
self-­‐identification
through
ethical
consumerism.
Moreover,
when
consumers
purchase
ethical/green
products,
it
can
also
influence
a
firm’s
operational
decisions,
thus,
the
thought
of
ethics
and/or
morals
could
become
a
decision
making
process
(Sarah,
Kristof
and
Patrick,
2003).
It
is
because
of
this
that

21. 15
consumers
are
increasingly
willing
to
display
their
concern
for
social
morality
through
consumption
behavior
(Muncy
and
Vitell,
1992).
As
a
supply
chain
process,
being
ethical
requires
transparency
as
a
key
component.
There
is
a
report
that
shows
that
the
second
highest
polluting
industry
is
fashion,
second
only
to
the
oil
industry
(Ditty,
2015;
Bertilsson,
2015).
Cheap
‘fast
fashion’s’
production
mess
causes
environmental
pollution,
additionally,
many
sweatshop
scandals
breaking
out
display
indifference
to
human
(labor)
rights
(Kane,
2015).
This
indicates
that
being
fully
transparent
is
still
a
challenge
for
many
firms.
61
percent
of
companies
do
not
know
where
their
products/apparels
are
made
(Fashionrevolution.org,
2015).
However,
through
openness
of
communication,
accountability
and
full
honesty
of
the
supply
chain
process,
slow
fashion
firms
can
achieve
high
ethical
values.
2.4.2 Sustainability
Sustainability
is
the
capability
to
continue
at
a
set
level
or
a
defined
behavior
indefinitely.
However,
sustainability
can
also
be
covered
by
main
elements
which
are,
environmental
sustainability,
economic
sustainability
and
social
sustainability.
In
1987,
the
World
Commission
on
Environment
and
Development
(WCED)
released
a
report
called
‘Our
Common
Future’
also
known
as
the
Brundtland
Report.
In
this
report,
the
WCED
clearly
explained
the
concept
of
“sustainable
development”.
“Humanity
has
the
ability
to
make
development
sustainable
to
ensure
that
it
meets
the
needs
of
the
present
without

22. 16
compromising
the
ability
of
future
generations
to
meet
their
own
needs”
(WECD,
1987,
P.16-­‐17).
Even
though
the
report
emphasized
on
“sustainable
development”,
and
not
“sustainability”,
sustainable
development
means
“development”
or
“growth”
that
can
be
continuous.
For
example,
using
sustainable
fabric
to
replace
the
disposable
material
to
reduce
waste
in
the
production
process.
More,
producers
and
consumers
could
make
use
of
the
slow
fashion
products
which
last
longer
(Gardetti
and
Torres,
2015;
Godart
and
Seong,
2015).
Likewise,
“no
growth”
or
“restricted
growth”
would
not
be
acceptable
for
wealthier
developing
countries
(McManus,
1996).
Therefore,
based
on
this
principal,
the
sustainable
development
theory
could
also
be
applied
to
slow
fashion.
Although,
this
concept
supports
the
economy,
improving
the
efficiency
and
society,
it
advocates
the
attached
importance
to
the
environment
and
nature.
However,
even
though
the
concept
of
sustainability
seems
like
it
could
be
acceptable,
it’s
more
challenging
to
apply.
There
are
three
mainstream
dimensions
of
sustainability
trends,
which
as
mentioned
before
are,
environmental,
social,
and
economic
(Adams,
2006).
These
three
dimensions
can
be
defined
as
follows;
Environmental
sustainability
is
the
ability
to
harvest
resources
at
a
level/rate
whereby
the
renewable
resources
can
be
maintained
indefinitely.
This
same
level
of
sustainability
also
applies
to
pollution
creation,
as
well
as
non-­‐renewable
resource
depletion,
whereby
they
can
also
be
sustained

23. 17
indefinitely.
Economic
sustainability
is
the
means
whereby
a
set
level
of
economic
production
can
be
upheld
indefinitely.
In
the
same
manner,
social
sustainability
is
the
well-­‐being
of
a
social
system
at
a
defined
level
that
is
maintained
indefinitely.
Environmental
sustainability
is
the
ability
to
harvest
resources
at
a
level/rate
whereby
the
renewable
resources
can
be
maintained
indefinitely.
This
same
level
of
sustainability
also
applies
to
pollution
creation,
as
well
as
non-­‐renewable
resource
depletion,
whereby
they
can
also
be
sustained
indefinitely.
Moreover,
based
on
the
same
concept,
the
theory
“Triple
Bottom
Line”
(TBL
or
3BL)
is
a
framework
about
the
pillars
of
sustainability,
which
are
Profit,
People
and
Planet
(Elkington,
1998).
For
those
3P,
TBL
could
also
state
the
three
different
capitals
which
are
social,
environmental
and
traditional
financial
capital
theory.
Although,
according
to
a
MIT
study
“Sustainability
nears
a
tipping
point”
(Audretsch
et
al.,
2012)
stated
TBL
could
improve
corporate
sustainability,
competitive
advantages
and
improved
innovation.
Therefore,
as
a
sustainable
corporation
should
set
up
a
clear
target
and
also
plan
a
concrete
strategy
to
benefits
the
sustainability
of
a
firm
(Hammer,
Babcock
and
Moosbrugger,
2015;
Scott,
2012).
According
to
Elkington
(1998),
being
a
sustainable
industry
should
balance
those
three
facts.
For
example,
Goodland
(1995,
p.3)
mentioned
that
the
sustainability
of
the
economy
is
same
as
“maintenance
of
capital”.
Through
this
capital

24. 18
maintenance,
financial
feasibility
is
possible
as
well
as
the
ability
to
influence
the
stakeholders
to
organize
the
economic
conditions
(Ramjohn,
2008).
Secondly,
the
sustainability
of
societies
aim
is
to
create
welfare
for
people
through
cultural
identity,
diversity
and
equity.
More,
environmental
sustainability
uses
the
products
with
renewable
substitutes
that
help
to
reduce
waste
(Goodland,
1995;
Ramjohn,
2008).
Therefore,
it
is
important
for
retailers
to
take
on
a
main
focus
on
consumers
for
sustainability,
whereby
companies
show
a
complete
use
of
sustainability
that
is
wholly
combined
into
company
offers
and
policies.
(Sheth,
Sethia
and
Srinivas,
2010).
Moreover,
even
though
the
price
of
a
slow
fashion
product
can
be
quite
high,
it
can
reflect
its
costs
in
its
social
and
environmental
value.
The
sustainable
slow
fashion
items
are
not
only
about
reusability
or
resale,
but
also
about
the
relationship
between
consumers,
workers
and
suppliers.
By
raising
the
slow
fashion
products
qualities
to
reduce
overconsumption,
slow
fashion
can
help
to
build
a
sustainable
future.
2.5 Slow
fashion
product
attributes.
In
a
way,
slow
fashion
products
may
make
people
think
that
it
is
a
kind
of
anti-­‐fashion.
Yet,
according
to
Bourland
(2011),
the
product
attributes
of
slow
fashion
includes
fair
trade,
sustainable,
ethical,
quality,
or
handmade
products
all
with
organic
fabrics.
Although,
slow
fashion
products
can
be
worn/used
for
more
than
one
season,
it
should
not
look
unfashionable.
Moreover,
it
may
confuse

25. 19
consumers
if
the
products
they
wear
are
worn
for
multiple
seasons,
though
it
could
be
one
type
of
slow
fashion.
However,
the
slow
fashion
product
attributes
should
be
considered
with
the
way
workers
make
the
products
as
well
as
the
materials
suppliers
used.
Research
points
out
that
slow
fashion
product
are
becoming
mainstream
within
the
fashion
retail
industry
(Pookulangara
and
Shephard,
2013).
Due
to
economic
depression,
consumers
are
increasingly
selective
in
their
consumption,
and
rather
choose
to
purchase
the
actual
necessities
for
daily
life
(Bourland,
2011;
Jung,
2014)
However,
the
attributes
of
slow
fashion
products
are
not
only
about
the
organic
or
handmade,
but
the
deeper
meaning
being
fair
trade
which
will
lead
slow
fashion
to
become
more
ethical
and
sustainable.
The
Canadian
Fair
Trade
Network
(2015)
created
a
campaign,
“The
Label
Doesn't
Tell
the
Whole
Story”.
For
this
movement,
the
major
aim
is
to
bring
the
ethical
awareness
up
to
rethinking
the
problem
of
textile
production
and
manufacturing
in
the
retail
industry,
especially
when
the
sweatshop
scandals
continue
to
occur.
For
example,
the
image
(See
Image
2.5.1)
below,
shows
that
illegal
child
labor
occurs
under
improper
and
unfair
working
conditions
which
the
consumers
do
not
know
of.
Therefore,
slow
fashion
ideals
and
products
could
help
educate
consumers
to
purchase
products
in
intelligent
ways
and
also
create
ethical
and
sustainable
consumer
behaviors.

26. 20
2.6 The
impact
of
slow
fashion
Nowadays,
there
are
still
challenges
for
the
slow
fashion
movement.
The
consumers
still
feel
quite
contradictory
when
choosing
sustainable
or
ethical
products
(Joy
et
al.,
2012;
Chang
and
Jai,
2015;
Lang,
Armstrong
and
Brannon,
2013;
McNeill
and
Moore,
2015).
Although
fast
fashion
has
advantage
in
price
and
supply
speed,
the
products’
quality
is
usually
quite
low,
thus,
it
results
in
a
continuously
growing
amount
of
raw
fabric
waste.
According
to
the
studies
from
Li
et
al.
(2014)
sustainability
governance
is
an
important
role
for
the
fast
fashion
supply
chain,
in
such
as
H&M
adopting
mechanism
integrating
both
internal
and
external
to
achieve
the
sustainable
supply
chain
in
fast
fashion.
Additionally,
Li
et
al.
(2014)
also
established
seven
experiences
for
the
sustainable
attributes
of
fashion
products,
TCQSERP,
which
are
time,
cost,
quality,
service,
environment,
resource
and
people,
as
a
behavior
that
should
govern
and
lead
a
sustainable
supply
chain.
Moreover,
according
to
Karl-­‐Johan
Persson,
H&M
CEO,
“Adding
sustainability
value
to
our
products
is
one
of
the
keys
to
strengthen
our
customer
offering.”
(H&M'S
Conscious
actions
sustainability
reports,
2012,
P.3).
Thus,
through
sustainable
governance
management,
one
can
also
create
a
new
opportunity
for
the
long-­‐term
business
strategy.
It
can
also
influence
others
indirectly.
Therefore,
from
the
literature
above,
slow
fashion’s
impact
could
be
a
broad
interpretation
for
corporate
social
responsibility
(CSR),
ecological
protection
and

27. 21
fair
trade.
It
is
more
like
a
lifestyle
when
consumers
choose
to
purchase
the
products
of
slow
fashion.
On
the
other
side,
the
narrow
interpretation
of
the
impact
of
slow
fashion
is
that
it
could
be
explained
as
a
governance
function
of
human
rights,
environment
care,
ethics
and
sustainability.
The
study
by
Deng
(2015)
shows
that
slow/fast
fashion
firms
should
also
take
the
responsibility
for
the
social
aspect
to
remind
consumers
of
ethical
purchasing
awareness
and
the
inertia
of
the
purchasing
behavior.
2.7 The
consumer’s
motivation
of
slow
fashion
As
a
consumer,
purchases
are
usually
made
with
a
form
of
motivation
behind
them.
By
dissecting
the
process
behind
the
motivation
we
can
better
understand
the
consumers’
needs
and
thoughts
(Dowd
and
Burke,
2013).
The
fast
fashion
consumers
do
not
give
much
thought
when
purchasing
goods
as
the
price
is
usually
low
or
convenient.
The
mass
production
of
fast
fashion
also
shortens
production
time,
so
consumers
can
easily
follow
the
fast
fashion
trends
blindly
(Armstrong
and
Brannon,
2013;
McNeill
and
Moore,
2015).
On
the
other
hand,
slow
fashion
changes
consumers’
habits
and
also
satisfies
consumers’
social
and
fashion
needs
(Li
et
al.
2014).
This
helps
slow
fashion
consumers,
to
better
understand
where
the
products
come
from
and
how
the
apparels
could
help
the
consumers
make
the
right
consumer
decisions.
More,
the
slow
fashion
consumers
are
seeking
high
quality
and
sustainable
commodities,
which
through
the
purchase
of
slow
fashion
merchandise
can
also
motivate
the

28. 22
moral
attitude
and
ethical
self-­‐identity
(Dowd
and
Burke,
2013).
Although,
on
the
opposite
side,
slow
fashion
also
means
lower
production
speeds,
higher
prices
and
products
being
produced
in
smaller
quantities
but
at
higher
quality
(Fletcher,
2010).
Furthermore,
Table
2.7.1
shows
the
three
major
differences
between
slow
fashion
consumers
and
fast
fashion
consumers.
From
slow
fashions
point
of
view,
the
consumer
values
the
products’
versatility,
nice
fit,
high
quality
and
also
that
it
would
not
fade
out
with
each
season
(Modified
Jung,
2014)
For
style,
slow
fashion
consumers
prefer
the
classic
and
timeless.
More,
the
slow
fashion
consumers
are
willing
to
pay
more
for
the
products,
since
there
are
higher
prices
due
to
the
lower
production
output.
On
the
other
hand,
the
fast
fashion
consumers’
choice
depends
on
the
buyer’s
affordability
and
quantity
because
the
fast
fashion
consumers
prefer
replaceable
clothes
with
every
fashion
season.
Hence,
the
consumers
are
looking
for
low
quality
and
shorter
lifespan
wear
in
order
to
facilitate
following
the
fashion
trends
to
feel
unique
and
also
be
provided
with
a
variety
of
fashionable
clothing.
Nevertheless,
when
the
style
is
out
of
the
fashion
trend,
the
consumers
will
likely
discard
or
throw
out
the
apparels
for
their
next
new
fashion
items.

29. 23
Table
2.7.1:
The
difference
between
slow
and
fast
fashion
consumers
(Modified
Jung,
2014)
2.8 Summery
Clothing
worn
for
fashion
throughout
the
ages
has
held
influence,
and
influenced
social
standing
in
various
ways
and
has
always
been
an
important
factor
in
social
standing
throughout
history.
As
fashion
in
clothing
has
become
more
and
more
prominent
in
our
daily
lives
and
still
impacts
our
social
standings
to
a
degree,
the
production
of
clothing
items
on
mass
scale
has
in
recent
years
become
the
norm
in
our
society
in
order
to
meet
the
consumer
demands,
as
the
perceived
value
of
textile
and
clothing
has
changed,
resulting
in
a
rapid
discard
culture
(Fletcher,
2010).
Due
to
the
increase
in
fast
fashion
production
on
a
mass
scale,
the
amount
of
fashion
waste
has
increased
greatly
in
recent
years
as
fast
fashion
is
now

30. 24
produced
in
excess.
Thus
a
counterbalance
in
fashion
industry
had
begun
to
emerge
with
the
name
of
slow
fashion.
Slow
fashion
started
to
emerge
with
a
focus
on
bringing
ethical
and
sustainable
products
to
consumers
as
a
way
to
combat
the
waste
of
non-­‐recycled
fast
fashion.
A
slow
fashion
movement
started
that
aimed
to
bring
sustainable
values
to
fashion
and
focused
on
quality
over
quantity
(Fletcher,
2007).
Companies
through
transparency
in
their
supply
chain
have
begun
to
adopt
slow
fashion
values
in
order
to
reduce
waste
and
achieve
a
good
level
of
corporate
social
responsibility
as
consumers
now
pay
closer
attention
to
the
qualities
of
their
purchases
and
how
they
are
made
(Gargi
and
Ha-­‐Brookshire,
2011).
(Image
2.5.1)
Source:
The
Canada
Fair
Trade
Network

31. 25
CHAPTER
3
-­‐-­‐
RESEARCH
METHODOLOGY
In
this
chapter,
we
follow
the
research
methods
used
in
order
to
gain
understanding
and
summarize
the
gathered
data
through
analysis
performed.
We
begin
the
research
method
with
section
3.1
whereby
the
process
begins
with
the
expansion
on
the
aims
and
objectives
of
the
research
and
further
delving
into
the
philosophies
behind
the
research
in
section
3.2.
Section
3.3
defines
the
approach
taken
in
gathering
the
necessary
research
data
and
the
reasoning
thereof.
Section
3.4
further
explains
the
research
methodology,
instruments
used
and
their
outcomes.
Section
3.5
will
address
the
methods
undertaken
to
analyze
the
data
that
was
gathered.
To
conclude
chapter
3,
the
ethical
considerations
and
limitations
of
this
study
will
be
discussed

32. 26
3.1 Aim
and
objective
Table
3.1.1:
The
key
research
of
this
study
is
restated
Content
Aim
The
aim
of
this
study
is
to
develop
a
new
theoretical
framework
that
sheds
light
on
consumer
merchandises’
adoption
of
slow
fashion
based
on
the
understanding,
perception,
and
awareness
of
slow
fashion.
Objective
1
To
understand
the
consumer’s
thoughts
on
slow
fashion.
Objective
2
To
identify
consumer
behaviors
and
motivations
toward
slow
fashion.
Objective
3
To
explore
the
consumer
concerns,
slow
fashion
faces
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry.
3.2 Research
philosophy
Saunders
at
el.
(2012)
stated
that
the
aim
of
research
philosophy
is
offering
assumptions
and
a
way
of
research.
Through
the
research
philosophy
the
researcher
can
ensure
that
its
context
is
consistent
rather
than
contradictory
(Tashakkori
and
Teddlie,
1998).
Although,
for
the
philosophy
of
research,
Saunders
at
el.
(2012)
stated
that
there
are
few
characteristics,
which
are ontology,
epistemology
and
axiology.
Ontology
is
focused
on
multiple
realities
and
subjectivity
of
realities
to
understand
the
phenomenon
from
multiple
perspectives
by
capturing
subjective
views
and
experiences.
Epistemology
focuses
on
close
connections
with
participants
and
phenomenon.
Axiology’s
action
is
discussing
the
background,

33. 27
beliefs
and
biases
to
understand
the
influence
for
the
research
process
(Saunders
at
el.,
2012)
Positivism
and
realism
are
also
widely
used
philosophies
as
positivism
deals
with
the
uncovering
of
a
single
or
specific
truth
regarding
how
things
are,
or
based
on
what
the
focus
is,
such
as
singling
out
casual
relationships
as
a
known
probability
which
can
be
applied
in
making
predictions.
Realism
deals
with
objects
that
exist
regardless
or
independently
of
our
knowledge,
thoughts
and
beliefs
and
can
be
interpreted
through
social
conditioning.
Saunders
at
el.
(2012)
suggests
that
pragmatism
could
help
the
researcher’s
ideas
to
be
clearer
as
well
as
help
to
explain
in
a
way
that
is
more
relative
to
reality.
Moreover,
based
on
pragmatism,
Saunders
et
al.
(2012)
stated
that
ontology
is
a
concept
of
the
nature
of
reality.
Again,
Ontology
has
been
defined
by
Baikie
(1993)
as
“the
science
or
study
of
being”
And
covers
aspects
that
relate
to
reality.
Baikie
(1993)
also
said
that
“Ontology
is
a
system
of
belief
that
reflects
an
interpretation
of
an
individual
about
what
constitutes
a
fact”
Thus,
Ontology
can
be
described
as
having
two
aspects,
which
are,
objectivism
and
subjectivism.
Objectivism
represents
the
point
of
view
whereby
social
entities
are
present
in
the
real
world
outside
of,
and
independent
of
social
affecters.
The
second
aspect
of
ontology
is
subjectivism
whereby
social
occurrences/phenomena
are
caused
by
the
views
held
and
actions
taken
that
are
affected
by
social
affecters/actors.
Therefore,
we
can
categorize
aspects
of
our
research
based
on
whether
viewpoints
are
taken
as
objective
or
subjective.

34. 28
Another
philosophy
used
is
interpretivism
which
deems
that
it
is
required
for
the
researcher
to
be
able
to
understand
human
differences
and
how
they
play
a
part
in
our
social
actions.
Thus,
as
a
large
majority
of
the
research
will
be
conducted
with
people,
it
is
important
to
understand
that
as
humans,
we
have
our
own
outlooks
on
the
world
around
us,
and
in
our
own
ways,
make
sense
of
the
world
around
us.
With
symbolic
interactionism,
human
beings
are
in
a
constant
process
of
analysis
and
interpretation
of
our
social
surroundings.
This
is
done
in
such
a
way
in
that
the
actions
of
those
whom
we
interact
with
are
constantly
being
interpreted,
which
leads
to
changes
and
adjustments
in
our
own
actions
and
meanings
as
human
beings.
In
conducting
the
research,
we
will
undertake
an
empathetic
stance
and
understanding
on
the
research
subjects’
viewpoints
to
clearly
interpret
information
gathered.
Using
these
research
philosophies,
we
can
better
measure
the
content
of
research
gathered
and
relationships
regarding
slow
and
fast
fashion.
3.3 Research
approach
As
the
research
philosophy
has
been
classified
as
using
ontology
and
interpretivism,
we
can
advance
to
the
second
layer
of
Saunder’s
research
onion
(2012).
This
section
defines
the
research
approach
that
will
be
used
to
ensure
that
the
data
gathered
is
applicable
and
functional
in
accordance
to
the
researchers’
expectations.

35. 29
3.3.1 Inductive
Detailed
in
Saunders
research
onion,
the
two
research
approaches
are
inductive
and
deductive.
An
inductive
approach
“essentially
reverses
the
process
found
in
deductive
research”
(Lancaster,
2005,
p.25).
Specifically,
in
an
inductive
approach,
theories
are
absent
at
the
start
of
the
research
and
theories
will
begin
to
develop
and
evolve
as
an
outcome/result
of
the
research.
Lancaster
stated
that
“Inductive
reasoning
is
based
on
learning
from
experience.
Patterns,
resemblances
and
regularities
in
experience
(premise)
are
observed
in
order
to
reach
conclusions
or
to
generate
theory”
(2005,
p25).
In
an
inductive
approach,
theories
are
absent
at
the
start
of
the
research
and
theories
will
begin
to
develop
and
evolve
as
an
outcome/result
of
the
research.
Inductive
reasoning
is
based
on
learning
from
experience.
Thus,
as
valuable
research
data
is
collected
by
the
researcher,
observations
and
patterns
can
be
made
to
develop
into
a
new
theory
for
the
research
outcome.
It
is
clear
that
the
inductive
approach
matches
the
research
method
and
will
be
used
in
this
study
to
build
up
a
new
theoretical
framework
on
slow
fashion
in
the
fashion
industry.
3.4 Research
methodolog
A
research
methodology
can
be
defined
as
a
means
to
gain
knowledge
through
studying
methods
in
order
to
provide
a
plan
for
research.
(Chinnathambi,
Philominathan
and
Rajasekar,
2013,
p.5).
In
order
to
conduct
our
research,
a

36. 30
research
method
is
required.
This
section
will
introduce
the
chosen
research
method
and
strategies
used
that
will
allow
the
research
and
data
gathered
to
reach
its
expected
outcome.
3.4.1 Qualitative method
There
are
two
definitive
research
methods
one
would
encounter
when
looking
into
research
methods
(Saunders
at
el.
2012).
Those
two
research
methods
are
qualitative
and
quantative
research
methods.
When
using
a
qualitative
research
approach,
it
is
possible
to
tell
if
a
variable
is
relevant
or
not
regarding
the
issue/problem
or
situation,
based
on
the
understanding
that
it
developed
whilst
performing
qualitative
research.
When
comparison
is
made
on
quantative
research
as
“counting”,
qualitative
research
can
be
viewed
as
showing
which
variables
are
to
be
counted
(Saunders
at
el.,
2012).
A
qualitative
research
approach
will
also
often
commence
with
an
inductive
approach
as
is
used
in
this
research.
qualitative
research
is
also
credited
to
be
more
subjective
in
relation
to
the
researcher’s
views
instead
of
generalization.
As
the
area
of
focus
of
the
research
pertains
to
the
attributes
of
people,
organizations
and
data
based
on
opinions,
the
qualitative
research
strategy
will
allow
the
research
to
reach
its
research
objective.

37. 31
3.4.2 Case study
Another
research
strategy
that
will
be
used
in
this
study
will
be
a
case
study.
According
to
Denscombe
(2004,
p.32)
“Case
studies
focus
on
one,
or
a
few
instances,
of
a
particular
phenomenon
with
a
view
to
providing
an
in-­‐depth
account
of
events,
relationships,
experiences
or
processes
occurring
in
that
particular
instance”.
The
fashion
and
apparel
company
H&M
have
in
recent
years
made
changes
to
the
way
they
run
their
supply
chain.
These
changes
have
enabled
H&M
to
become
more
ethical
and
sustainable.
For
this
reason,
H&M
will
be
the
target
of
my
research
for
the
case
study.
According
to
its
design,
case
study
research
method
can
be
divided
into
three
categories:
explanatory,
descriptive
and
exploratory
(Yin
2003).
As
we
are
using
a
qualitative
method
in
our
research,
and
the
aim
is
to
answer
the
questions
of
the
‘how’
and
‘why’
based
on
our
research
aim
and
objectives,
we
can
determine
that
the
case
study
will
fall
under
the
explanatory
category.
One
of
the
advantages
of
using
a
case
study
is
that
the
method
includes
the
collection
and
analysis
of
data
within
the
context
of
the
study.
Qualitative
data
can
be
integrated
in
data
analysis
and
complexities
of
real
life
situations
can
be
captured
for
increased
depth.

38. 32
3.5 Data
collection
and
analysis
3.5.1 Data
collection
As
a
data
collection
could
be
separate
by
two
categories,
which
are
primary
and
secondary
(Saunders
at
el.,
2012).
For
the
primary
data
collection,
an
advantage
of
primary
research
is
that
researcher
could
use
specific
purposes
to
analyze
the
data
to
further
answer
the
main
objective
of
this
original
research.
Otherwise,
in
order
to
help
this
study
to
reach
completion,
the
secondary
data
collection
will
use
other
selected
information
from
previous
research
or
journals
to
compare
with
(Saunders
at
el.,
2012).
Hence,
in
order
to
respond
deeply
with
this
exploratory
research,
the
primary
data
collection
adopt
semi-­‐structured
interview,
further
the
textual
and
industry
analysis
will
use
for
secondary
data
collection.
3.5.1.1 Primary
data
collection
–
Semi-­‐structured
interviews
According
to
Cassell
and
Symon
(2004)
stated
that
the
interview
is
way
to
produce
qualitative
research,
although
there
are
three
types
of
interview,
which
are
structured,
semi-­‐structured
and
unstructured
interview.
In
this
study,
the
semi-­‐structured
interview
will
be
adopted
for
primary
data
collection.
The
semi-­‐structured
interview
helps
researcher
to
define
the
topic
to
be
explored
from
key
questions
and
also
allows
the
interviewers
to
provide
more
of
an
idea
or
detail (Somekh
and
Lewin,
2005;
King
and
Horrocks,
2010).
Otherwise,
the
other
advantage
of
semi-­‐structured
interview
is
that
it
can
provide
reliable,

39. 33
comparable
qualitative
data.
It
could
also
be
adopted
for
an
exploratory
study
(Clifford
and
Valentine,
2003;
Kvale
and
Brinkmann,
2009;
Sanders
et
al.
2012).
The
primary
data
will
be
based
on
two
types
of
consumers,
slow
and
fast
fashion
consumers,
to
explore
slow
fashion’s
challenges
consumer
behavior
and
motivation
in
the
fashion
industry.
Furthermore,
a
case
study
will
be
performed
on
one
or
a
few
fast/slow
fashion
companies
to
analyze
the
new
trend
of
the
fashion
industry.
As
an
interview
is
qualitative
research,
to
achieve
quality
insight
in
this
research,
all
the
interviewers
should
have
comprehensive
knowledge
about
the
slow
and
fast
fashion
industry
and
fully
understand
their
own
consumer
motivation.
Hence,
all
interviewees
will
be
asked
the
same
questions
and
will
get
the
questions
of
the
semi-­‐structured
interview
a
week
prior.
More,
during
the
interview,
the
researcher
will
be
allowed
to
record
the
conversation
to
later
be
transcribed
and
summarize
the
content
of
the
interview.
(See
Appendix
1)
For
the
semi-­‐structured
interview,
there
are
three
objects
for
the
interviewees,
which
are
(1)
to
define
the
slow
fashion
(2) to
identify
consumer
behaviors
and
motivations
toward
slow
fashion
(3)
to
explore
the
challenges
slow
fashion
faces
in
entering
into
the
fashion
industry.
More,
this
research
will
adopt
face
to
face
interviews
and
take
approximately
one
hour
on
average.

40. 34
3.5.1.2 Secondary
data
collection
–
Documentary
The
secondary
data
method
assists
researchers
to
gain
a
better
understanding
of
data
for
the
study.
There
are
three
types
or
ways
for
the
secondary
data
collection,
which
are:
documentary,
survey
and
multiple
source
(Sanders
et
al.
2012).
Therefore,
in
this
study,
the
secondary
data
adopted
the
primary
raw
data
to
compare
with
compiled
data
from
documentary
research.
However,
the
secondary
data
collection
should
consider
its
reliability
and
validity
(Trzesniewski,
Donnellan
and
Lucas,
2011;
Goodwin,
2012).
The
secondary
data
in
this
research
obtained
its
information
from
the
slow/fast
fashion
firm’s
annual
report,
internal
documents
and
website.
Furthermore,
the
framework
was
completed
from
the
interviews
as
part
of
the
primary
data
collection,
thus,
the
secondary
data
was
combined
with
the
primary
raw
data
in
this
research.
3.5.2 Data
analysis
Data
analysis
for
this
study
will
be
performed
on
both
primary
and
secondary
data
collection
methods
used.
The
primary
data
collection
method
will
be
performed
in
the
style
of
semi-­‐structured
interviews
as
mentioned
above.
The
data
produced
by
this
method
will
be
in
the
form
of
audio
recordings
and
will
later
be
transcribed
into
textual
form.
Once
the
primary
data
is
collected
and
transcribed,
the
data
will
be
categorized
against
the
research
objectives.
The
secondary
data
collection
method
will
be
in
the
form
of
content
analysis
of
a
case
study.
Both
data
sources
will
be
in
the
form
of
qualitative
data.
Saunders
et

41. 35
al.
(2012)
proposed
that
it
is
possible
for
researchers
to
notice/identify
issues
and
apparent
themes
from
data
that
they
have
collected.
Thus,
once
the
data
and
materials
are
gathered
and
categorized
for
both
the
primary
and
secondary
data
collection
methods,
the
data
can
be
analyzed
further
in
comparative
means
against
the
initial
research
findings,
questions,
aims
and
objectives
to
form
patterns
and
theories.
3.6 Ethical
considerations
When
researchers
perform
studies
on
things
such
as
human
behavior,
medical
advances
or
technological
devices,
while
at
the
same
time
measuring
or
taking
into
account
the
human
response
and
feelings
regarding
the
potential
research
outcomes,
it
can
be
defined
as
ethical
consideration
in
research
(Dana
Lynn
Driscoll,
2012).
According
to
Saunders,
Lewis
and
Thornhill
(2012),
“Ethical
principles
can
be
discussed
in
two
prominent
parts,
regarding:
the
rights
of
participants,
and
issues
relating
to
data
collection
and
analysis.”
When
researchers
perform
studies
on
things
such
as
human
behavior,
medical
advances
or
technological
devices,
while
at
the
same
time
measuring
or
taking
into
account
the
human
response
and
feelings
regarding
the
potential
research
outcomes,
it
can
be
defined
as
ethical
consideration
in
research
(Dana
Lynn
Driscoll,
2012).
During
the
conduct
of
this
research,
ethical
considerations
were
managed
and
upheld
throughout
the
processes
of
the
research
according
to
GCU’s
code
of

42. 36
ethics
and
guidelines.
Following
this
strict
code
of
conduct
ensures
that
there
are
no
harmful
effects
caused
by
this
study
to
any
individuals
or
to
the
reputation
of
the
university
and
the
organization.
All
content
and
research
data
will
be
safely
stored,
and
remain
unedited,
upholding
the
integrity
of
the
research.
Informed
consent
will
be
acquired
from
all
interview
participants
and
affirmation
will
be
provided
verbally
to
the
research
respondents
that
any
information
they
provide
would
be
handled
with
respect,
confidentiality
and
anonymity.
All
participants
in
the
study
are
ensured
that
their
participation
in
the
study
is
entirely
voluntarily
and
that
termination
of
their
involvement
can
be
actioned
at
any
point
of
their
choosing.
3.7 Limitations
In
this
section
we
determined
and
highlighted
the
factors
that
led
to,
or
caused
limitation
to
the
study.
Christensen
and
Engdahl
(2001)
stated,
that
in
order
for
a
qualitative
study
to
be
credible
and
valid,
any
data
that
is
presented
should
be
presented
openly
and
should
be
analyzed
and
collected
systematically.
In
this
study,
a
semi-­‐structured
interview
process
is
used.
The
limitation
of
this
method
is
that
reliability
of
the
data
can
be
of
concern
as
the
interview
approach
is
not
standardized,
thus,
it
is
possible
for
other
researchers
to
obtain
different
research
results
(Easterby-­‐Smith
et
al.,
2008).
Another
limitation
noted
on
the
interview
process
regards
data
biases.
This
can
take
place
as
interviewee
and
response
bias.
In
order
to
insert
a
degree
of

43. 37
control
over
this
limitation,
a
varied
selection
of
interview
candidates
will
be
gathered
to
provide
a
range
of
data.
Finally,
A
case
study
will
be
undertaken
whereby
the
access
to
official
company
data,
reports
and
records
may
be
limited.
3.8 Summery
The
aim
and
objective
of
this
study
is
to
successfully
develop
a
new
theoretical
framework
on
slow
fashions
position
in
the
fashion
industry
based
on
the
understanding,
perception,
and
public
awareness
of
slow
fashion
through
the
collection
of
the
data
and
research
performed
for
this
study.
With
focus
on
this
objective
we
identified
suitable
research
methodologies
and
philosophies
to
best
fit
the
research
approach
and
data
collection
methods
used
in
the
study.
As
the
target
for
the
study
is
partly
based
on
the
interpretation
of
an
individual’s
views
of
the
facts
of
slow
fashion
and
ethical
purchasing
in
today’s
society
(conducted
by
way
of
semi-­‐structured
interviews),
we
highlighted
ontology,
which
has
two
aspects,
objectivism
and
subjectivism.
Another
philosophy
that
was
used
is
interpretivism.
Using
these
philosophies,
we
began
an
inductive
approach
with
no
starting
point
in
developing
the
theory
we
aimed
to
develop
for
meeting
our
objective.
Using
a
qualitative
method,
we
are
able
to
decide
which
factors
to
measure
in
our
research
and
which
variables
to
count.
By
also
focusing
part
of
the
research
on
a
case
study
of
large
reputable
companies
(H&M)
that
have
made
recent
changes
to
be
more
sustainable,
and
by
investigating
their
motives
for
change,
we
can
compare
our
interpreted
research

44. 38
from
the
collected
data
of
the
semi-­‐structured
interviews
performed
with
that
of
the
explanatory
data
of
the
case
study
to
form
the
basis
of
our
new
theory.