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Cotton Ranking Report - June 2016_0

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Sustainable Cotton Ranking Assessingcompanyperformance Commissioned by Based on research by PHOTOSIDDHARTHTRIPATHY
REPORT PREPARED BY RANK A BRAND RankaBrandisaninternationalNGObyandforconsumersthat assessesandranksconsumerbrandsinseveralsectorson sustainabilityandsocialresponsibility. www.rankabrand.org Research teamMarioDziamski(headofresearch)andRadboud vanDelft(managingdirector) The team consisted ofMarloesBoere,MarinedeWaziers,Bianca Festa,EmilyGhadimi,HilaryHaskell,BarryKonst,DavidOllivierde Leth,EefjeNotten,AnnikaReinds,AngelaRojas,HeinzRotter,Martje Rozmus,PetraSchoof,EvaSchouten,TrixVahl,MariekevanAsperen, JudithvandenBosch,DietervanderMeeren,OlgavanGenechten, YpevanWoersemandPiaWunderl Edited byBarneyJeffries PublishedJune2016 Production and publishing teamRichardHolland(WWF),Elly Peters(WWF),IsabelleRoger(Solidaridad),KeithTyrell(PANUK), BramVerkerke(Solidaridad)andJustinWoolford(WWF) DesignAxiomaCommunicatie All photo copy rightsSolidaridad Cover photoSiddharthTripathy Formoreinformationpleasecontact: PesticideActionNetworkUK,www.pan-uk.orgorinfo@pan-uk.org Solidaridad,www.solidaridadnetwork.orgor info@solidaridadnetwork.org WWFMarketTransformationInitiative,panda.org/marketsor contactmti@wwf.nl Anyreproductioninfullorinpartmustmentionthetitleandcredit theabove-mentionedpublisherasthecopyrightowner. PANUK:PesticideActionNetworkUK(PANUK)istheonlyUK charityfocusedontacklingtheproblemscausedbypesticidesand promotingsafeandsustainablealternativestopesticidesin agriculture,urbanareas,homesandgardens. Solidaridad:Solidaridadisaninternationalcivilsocietyorganization withmorethan45yearsofglobalexperienceinfacilitatingthede- velopmentofsociallyresponsible,ecologicallysoundandprofitable supplychains. WWF:isoneoftheworld’slargestandmostexperiencedindepend- entconservationorganizations,withover5millionsupportersand aglobalnetworkactiveinmorethan100countries. PHOTOH.P.ALTINGVONGEUSAU
3 1. Executive summary 4 2. Introduction 6 2.1. Backgroundandobjective 6 2.2. Rationaleandmethod 6 2.3. Solutions 8 3. Methodology 11 4. Summary of results 12 4.1 Overall 12 4.2 Ranking 13 4.3 Policy 14 4.4 Actualuptake 15 4.5 Traceability 15 5. Conclusions and recommendations 18 5.1 Conclusions 18 5.2 Recommendations 18 6. Appendices 19 6.1. Questionnaire 19 6.2. Detailedresultspercompany 20 Contents
4 Cottonisakeyrawmaterialforthetextile industry.Varioussustainabilityinitiativesexist butmanyproblemsandchallengesremain, andconventionalcultivationoftencomes withseriousenvironmentalimpactsandpoor labourconditions.Althoughthereisasignificant amountofmoresustainablecottonnowavaila- ble,accountingforaround13percentofglobal supplyin2015,theMind the Gapreportshows thatlessthanonefifthofwhatisproducedis actuallybeingboughtasmoresustainable. Withtheaimofevaluatingprogressand acceleratingchange,Pesticide Action Net- work UK(PANUK),SolidaridadandWWF commissionedRank a Brandtoassessmajor cotton-usingcompaniesontheirpublished cottonsustainabilityperformance.Intotal, 37companies,estimatedgloballytousethe mostcottonintheirproducts,wereranked acrossthreeareas:policy,actualuseinproducts (uptake),andtraceability.Thisreportoffers anoverviewofcurrentcompanyperformance togetherwithrecommendationsforimprove- ment.Eachcompany’sindividualperformance onsustainablecottonisalsopresented.Forthe purposesofthisresearch,onlyorganiccotton, Fairtradecotton,CottonmadeinAfrica(CmiA), BetterCotton(BCI)orrecycledcottonare consideredtobe‘moresustainable’. Summary of main results Nocompanyachievedthemaximumavailable scoreof19.5points,mainlybecausenocompany uses100percentmoresustainablecotton accordingtothecriteriausedinthisresearch,or isfullytransparentaboutitspoliciesandcotton supplychain.Ofthe37companiesevaluated, onlyeightscoredthreepointsormore.Witha scoreof12.0,IKEAGroupisthebestperforming companyaswellasbeingtheonlycompanyto rankinthegreenzone.C&AGlobal(9.0),H&M Group(9.0)andAdidasGroup(7.75)followin theyellowzone,whileNike(6.75),M&S(5.5), VFCorporation(3.25),andKering(3.0)areinthe orangezone.Another17companiesscoredless thanthreepoints,whileafurther12provided littleornoinformationandthereforescored nopoints,allfallingintheredzone. Performancehasbeenassessedatcompanylevel toreflecttheneedforcompany-widechangein transformingtheentirecottonmarket.Some companiesmaybeperformingbetterthantheir rankingsuggestsbuthavescoredlowerbecause theyarenotcommunicatingpoliciesandprac- ticespublicly.Itisalsopossiblethatspecificbrands areperformingbetterthantheirparentcompany assustainabilitypracticescanvarysignificantly betweendifferentbrandsownedbythesame company. Anumberofcompaniesparticipateinsustain -ablecottoninitiatives.Forexample,tenofthose assessedherearemembersoftheBetterCotton Initiative(BCI)andsupportminimizingthe useofhighlyhazardouspesticides(HHP),1 improvingworkingconditions,addressing biodiversityissuesandreducingwaterconsump- tion.Othercompaniesparticipateindifferent collaborativeinitiativesand/orcottonpro- grammes,andsome,inadditiontousingBetter Cotton,Fairtrade,organicorCmiAcotton,focus onusingrecycledcotton.Mostofthecompanies assesseddonothaveclearcottonpolicies. Mainconclusions Whilesignificantprogresshasbeenmadeby afewleadingcompaniesworkinghardtodeliver sustainability,thereissignificantroomfor improvementincompanysourcingandreporting onsustainablecotton.Althoughsomemajor brandsandmanufacturershavepublished policiesandcommitments,ingeneral,there isawidespreadabsenceofpubliclyavailable informationonpolicies,sourcingandsupplychain traceabilityacrossthetextilesector–allofwhich arenecessaryforoverallmarkettransformation. Main recommendations Whiletheleadingcompanieshavemadegood progress,moreactionisneededtomakea lastingdifferenceinthecottonsector.All companiesusinglargequantitiesofcottoncan strengthentheirbusinessbytakingresponsi- bilityforimpactsandpursuingsustainability. Indoingso,thesecompaniescanmakeamajor contributiontopeopleandplanet. PANUK,SolidaridadandWWFrecommend low-scoringcompanies: • Developandpublishapolicyforsourcing more sustainablecottonfortheirproducts,including time-boundtargets–companiesseriousabout sustainabilityshouldbesourcing100%more sustainablecottonby2020atthelatest • Considerjoininganorganizationsuchasthe BCIorTextileExchange. 1 SeePANInternationalListofHighlyHazardousPesticides,2015 PANUK,SolidaridadandWWFrecommend companiesalreadyonthewaytosustainability continueimprovingperformance: • Encouragealltheirsupplierstoparticipate incrediblesustainabilityprogrammes • Increasetheamountofmoresustainable cottontheysourceandpurchasetosenda strongmarketsignalforsustainability • Reporttransparentlyoncottonsourcingand sustainability • Mapsupplychainsandusetraceabilitytools. PANUK,SolidaridadandWWFconsiderthe followingstandardstobethemostcrediblefor companiesseekingtosourcemoresustainable cottonattheproductionlevel: • Organiccotton • Fairtradecotton • CottonmadeinAfrica(CmiA) • BetterCotton(fromtheBCI). Anothersustainableoptionisrecycledcotton. ALL COMPANIES USING LARGE QUAN- TITIES OF COTTON CAN STRENGTHEN THEIR BUSINESS BY TAKING RESPONSIBIL- ITY AND PURSUING SUSTAINABILITY 1. Executive summary
5 SCOREOVERVIEWCOTTON IKEAGroup 12,00 CAGlobal 9,00 HMGroup 9,00 AdidasGroup 7,75 Nike,Inc. 6,75 MarksSpencer 5,50 VFCorporation 3,25 Kering 3,00 InditexGroup 2,50 Burberry 2,25 AssociatedBritishFood 2,00 HanesbrandsInc. 2,00 Carrefour 1,75 PVH 1,75 CasinoGroup 1,25 ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd. 1,25 Macy’s,Inc. 1,25 Hudson’sBayCo. 1,00 Walmart 1,00 LVMH 0,75 TargetCorp 0,75 FastRetailing 0,50 GAPInc. 0,50 LBrands 0,50 Wesfarmers 0,50 AuchanGroupe 0,00 CoachInc. 0,00 Dillard’sInc. 0,00 FootLockerInc. 0,00 HermèsInternationalSA 0,00 JCPenney 0,00 LotteCo.Ltd. 0,00 NordstromInc. 0,00 RalphLaurenCorporation 0,00 Richemont 0,00 RossStores 0,00 TJX 0,00 Leading the way Well on the way Starting the journey Notyetinthe startingblocks
6 Background Theapparelandtextileindustriesreceive notablepublicscrutinyforconditionsintheir factoriesindevelopingcountries,fuelledby high-profiletragedies,suchasthebuilding collapsesandfiresinBangladesh,andongoing reportsofchildlabour.Incontrast,thecotton farming–akeyrawmaterialforthesector–has receivedconsiderablylessattention,thoughit toohasseriousenvironmentalandsocial impacts.Withanestimated40millioncotton farmersindevelopingcountriesproducing three-quartersoftheworld’scotton,morethan 100millionfamiliesaredirectlyengagedin cottonproduction2,andafurther250million infarmlabourandprimaryprocessingare dependentoncotton3.Cottonproduction meritsmuchmoreattentionthanitcurrently receives. Widespreadandreadilyobservableissuesfor thecottonsectorinclude: • Forcedlabourandchildlabour • Excessivewateruse4, oftenindeveloping countrieswithwatershortages • Waterpollution • Inappropriateuseofpesticidesandherbicides • Soildepletion • Biodiversityloss • Highlevelsofdebtamongfarmersduetohigh inputcosts. Anumberofglobalinitiativeshavebeen launchedtoaddress,fullyorpartially,thesocial, economicandenvironmentalimpactsofcotton production.Althoughabout13%ofcottonis grownmoresustainablyonlyafifthofthisis actuallysourcedbycompaniesfortheir products.Somemajorcompanieshavemade publicandtime-boundcommitmentsto sustainablecottonsourcing.Theseandother companiesneedtoliveuptotheircommit- ments,increasetheirpurchasesofcotton fromcrediblesustainabilityprogrammesand reporttransparentlyontheirsustainablecotton sourcing.Thiswillenablethemtomeetthe demandsoftheircustomers,shareholdersand staffwhowantethicalproductsandcontribute tothelong-termsustainabilityofthecotton sectorasawhole. Objective Theobjectiveistohighlightopportunitiesfor improvementandacceleratetransformation ofthecottonmarkettowardssustainability. PesticideActionNetworkUK(PANUK), Solidaridad,andWWFcommissionedRank aBrandtoresearchthemajorcotton-using companiesontheirpolicies,actualuptakeand traceabilityofsustainablecotton.Theresearch presentsarankingcomparingtheirperfor- manceandgivingatransparentoverviewofthe currentstatusofsustainablecottonsourcing. 2. Introduction 2.1. BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE 2.2.RATIONALEANDMETHOD 2 FortucciP.(Director,CommoditiesandTradeDivision,FAO). 2002.SpeechattheSeminaronCottonandMultilateralTrade NegotiationsorganisedbyICACandtheWorldBank,July2002. 3 InternationalCottonAdvisoryCommittee(ICAC). 4 3,644m3pertonne,whichistheequivalentofnearly1.5 Olympicswimmingpools.(Chapagain,A.K.,Hoekstra,A.Y., Savenije,H.H.G.andR.Gautam.2006.Thewaterfootprint ofcottonconsumption:Anassessmentoftheimpactof worldwideconsumptionofcottonproductsonthewater resourcesinthecottonproducingcountries.Ecological Economics60(1):186-203. Issue Productionofmoresustainablecottonhas neverbeenhigher,reaching2,173,000tonnes in2014,or8percentofthetotalglobalsupply. Thisshareisprojectedtoriseto13percentin 2015.Internationalclothingcompanieshavethe opportunitytoplayacrucialroleinsecuring thefutureofthesustainablecottonmarket, reducingcotton’senvironmentalimpactand improvinglabourconditions.However,com- paniesareactivelysourcinglessthanafifthof availablesustainablecottonwiththeremainder soldasconventionalcotton.Withoutdemand frombuyers,sustainablecottonwillremaina nicheproductandthecottonindustry’ssocial andenvironmentalproblemswillpersist. Relevance of policy, actual uptake and traceability Policy Policyisincludedintheanalysisbecause,although itmightseemlessrelevantthanaccomplished resultsorhardfigures,acompany’ssustainability policiesprovideavitalfoundationanddirection foritsbusinessoperations.Publishingapolicycan beafirststeponthejourneytomoresustainable cottonsourcing. Actual uptake Policiesdonotdeliverchangeiftheyarenot implemented.Theresearchmethodology givesprioritytoactualuptakeofsustainable cottoninproducts.Increasedsourcingof moresustainablecottonleadstopositive improvementsinthecottonsector.Companies thatpublishthevolumeofcottontheyuse demonstratethattheytaketheirroleinthe cottonsectorseriously,andarewillingto supportsustainabilityeffortsexplicitly. Traceability Companiesmustpayattentiontowheretheir cottonisgrownandprocessed,whotheir suppliersare,andhowmuchcottonpasses throughtheirsupplychainsonannualbasis. Suchinformationhelpsacompanyandits supplierstobuildlonger-lastingrelationships thathelpacceleratethetransformationofthe cottonmarkettowardssustainability.Internally, traceabilityisanessentialdecision-makingtool insettingandachievingasustainablecotton ALTHOUGH ABOUT 13% OF COTTON IS GROWN MORE SUSTAINABLY ONLY A FIFTH OF THIS IS ACTUALLY SOURCED BY COMPANIES FOR THEIR PRODUCTS
strategy.Traceabilityandtransparencyfurther facilitateincreasedaccountabilityofcompanies towardstheirconsumers,owners,supplychain partnersandotherstakeholders. Focusing on companies Brandsandretailershavetheabilitytodrive sustainablecottondemandthroughthe requirementstheysetfortheirsuppliers. Theserequirementscanensurethattheir productsarenotassociatedwithunsafeor illegallabourpracticesorenvironmentaldamage. Therankingusedinthisresearchfocuseson companiesratherthantheindividualbrands theyown.Whilesustainabilitypracticescanvary significantlybetweendifferentbrands,entire companiesneedtochangesourcingpractices inordertotransformcottonproduction. Choice of companies Theanalysisfocusesontheworld’slargest consumer-facingcompanieswhichusea significantamountofcottonintheirproducts. Thesecompaniesrepresentacross-section ofcompaniesfromapparelbrandstosuper- marketchains,andfurnituretohousehold stores.Duetotheprominenceofthesecom- paniesintheirrespectivesectors,theyareina positiontoencouragecottonfarmerstogrow sustainablecottonandsupplychainactorsto sourceanduseitintheirproducts.These companiesbuyfromaround30,000tonnesto morethan100,000tonnesofcottonannually. Duetothelackofpubliclyavailabledatafrom thecompaniesthemselves,theirrespectiveuse ofcottonwasestimated.Theauthorsareaware thattheseestimatesmightbewrong,andinvites companiestopublishtheiractual(orownesti- mated)cottonuse. 7 PHOTOH.P.ALTINGVONGEUSAU
8 Sustainabilitystandardsandprogrammeshave beendevelopedoverthelastthreedecadesto addresstheissuesassociatedwithconventional cottoncultivation.Thesestandardsprovide guidanceforfarmersonmoresustainable farmingpracticesandassurebuyersthatagiven productmeetsthespecifiedrequirementstobe consideredmoresustainable. Organiccottonwasaground-breaking programmeinthelate1980s,followedby Fairtradein2004,CmiAin2005andBetter Cottonin2009.Eachstandardbringsdifferent advantagestothetable,bothintermsof thestandardsthemselvesandthesystemssup- portingthem.Whileorganiccottonfocuseson environmentalimpacts,Fairtradeemphasizes thesocialdevelopmentofcottonfarming –althoughinpractice,aroundtwo-thirds ofcertifiedcottonfarmersworkwithboth standards.CmiAandBetterCottoncoverboth environmental,andsocialandeconomic impacts,butCmiAislimitedinscopeto Sub-SaharanAfrica.Recycledcottonisanother sustainableoption. Suppliesofmoresustainablecottonhavein- creasedsignificantlyinthelastfewyears,reach- ingunprecedentedvolumesandaccountingfor about8percentofglobalproductionin2014. Thisshareisprojectedtobearound13percent in2015.Thispositivedevelopmentisalready benefitingtheenvironmentandfarmers. FromananalysisusingtheWWFCertification AssessmentTool,RankaBrandfoundthat theabove-mentionedstandardsarethemost credibleforcottonfarmingatpresent.Abrief overviewoneachstandardisgivenbelow. Organic cotton Organiccottonisgrownwithouttheuseofany artificialfertilizersorpesticides,soitavoids someofthenegativeenvironmentalimpactsof conventionalcotton.Afterreachingarecord levelof241,698metrictonnesoffibrein2010, organiccottonproductiondeclinedforseveral years.In2013-14itgrewagainby10percentto 116,974metrictonnes.Organiccottonorigi- natesfrom19producercountries,withIndia accountingfornearlythree-quarters(74per cent)oftotalsupply,followedbyChina(10per cent)andTurkey(7percent).TheAmericas,Af- ricaandCentralAsiaaccountfortheremaining amount(8percent). Fairtrade cotton Fairtradeemphasizesthesocialdevelopment aspectsofcottonfarming.Fairtradecottonis producedinsevencountries,mainlyinIndia, butalsoinAfricaandCentralAsia.Production ofFairtradecottonfluctuatesataround15,000 metrictonnesoffibre.Two-thirdsofFairtrade cottonisalsoorganic. Cotton made in Africa CmiAfocusesontheenvironmental,social andeconomicaspectsofcottonproduction inSub-SaharanAfrica.Itisproducedineight countries.CmiAproductionreached399,808 metrictonnesin2015. Better Cotton BetterCottonisproducedaccordingtostan- dardsagreedinmulti-stakeholderprocesses. Theyaddresssocial,environmentalandeco- nomicissuesincottonfarmingandproduction. BetterCottonfarminghasdemonstratedcon- siderablylowerpesticide,fertilizerandwater usethanconventionalcottonandbetternet profitforfarmers. In2014,nearly2millionmetrictonnesofBetter Cottonwereproduced,including834,500 metrictonnesproduceddirectlyinlinewith theBetterCottonstandard,and1,167,500 metrictonnesproducedunderbenchmarked standards(MyBMP,ABRandCmiA).Better Cottonisnowgrownin20countries. Recycled cotton Cottoncanberecycledfromwastegenerated duringthetextileproductionprocess(pre-con- sumer)andfromdiscardedtextileproducts (post-consumer).Thistypeofcottonisoften blendedwithothermaterials,includingvirgin cottonorpolyester. 2.3. SOLUTIONS SUPPLIES OF MORE SUSTAINABLE COTTON HAVE INCREASED SIGNIFICANTLY IN THE LAST FEW YEARS REACHING UNPRECEDENTED VOLUMES Introduction
9 PHOTOPAULBARBERA
PHOTOSOLIDARIDAD 10
11 Selection of largest cotton users Threemethodswereusedtocalculatewhich companiesarecurrentlythelargestcotton usersglobally. 1. Primarily,publiclyavailablecottonusefigures publishedbycompaniesthemselvesontheir websitesandannualreportswereassessed. Someofthecompaniesprovidedtheircotton useinformationinmetrictonnes.However, othercompaniesexpressedtheinformation indollarfigures,whichwerethenconverted intometrictonnesusingtheglobalaverage priceofcottonfortherespectiveyear. 2. Somecompaniesexpressedtheircotton useinthequantityofitemsproduced.This informationwasthenconvertedintometric tonnesbycalculatingtheaverageweightof eachitem(e.g.at-shirtorbedsheets),and multiplyingthisbythetotalquantity. 2. Estimatesweremadeforcompanieswhere nopublicdatawasavailable.Theestimates usedinthisreportarebasedoncompanies withcomparablebusinessprofiles.Depend- ingonsalesvolumes,appropriatecotton-use quantitieswereestimated.Weareawarethat theseareestimates,andinvitescompaniesto publishtheiractual(orestimated)cottonuse toimprovethesefigures. Criteria Thecottonrankingassesseseachcompany’s commitmentandperformancewithregard tosustainablecotton,basedonthefollowing criteria: • Theexistenceandpublicityofpolicieson cotton,inparticularthoseaimedat: •Reducingtheoverallimpactsofcotton production •Eliminatinghazardouspesticides(HHPs) •Reducingwateruse •Addressingbiodiversityissues •Usingrecycledcotton •Addressinglabourrightsviolations •Targetingtime-boundsustainable cottonuse. • Actualcurrentuseofmoresustainablecotton comingfromcredibleschemes,namely: •Organiccertifiedcottonasdefinedby EuropeanUnionRegulation834/2007,the InternationalFederationofOrganicAgri- culturalMovements(IFOAM)–knownas publiclyavailableinformation,apoorscorebya specificcompanymayreflectalackofpublicly reportedinformation. How Rank a Brand assessed these companies TheRankaBrandteamresearchedpublicly availablereportsandotherwebresourcesfor referencestomoresustainablecottonuse– includingorganic,Fairtrade,CmiA,Better Cottonandrecycledcotton.RankaBrandalso searchedforeachcompany’sreportingon policiesandassociatedmeasuresandtargets intendedtoincreaseprocurementofmore sustainablecotton. DraftscoreswereestablishedinJanuaryand February2016.Allcompaniesreceivedacopyof theirdraftscore,andweregiventheopportu- nitytoprovideadditionalinformationtobetter explaintheirpoliciesandpracticesandtoask forclarificationonthedraftscoring.Companies weregivensixweeksinMarch-April2016to shareadditionalinformationwithRankaBrand inordertoresolveambiguitiesandsubstantiate theirclaims.Companiesreceivedtworeminders inMarchinordertoencourageparticipation. Aftertheperiodduringwhichcompaniescould provideandpublishadditionalinformation,the scoringwasfinalizedinApril2016. theworldassociationoforganicfarming –and/orNaturland •FairtradeLabellingOrganizations International(FLO)certified •CottonmadeinAfrica(CmiA)verified •BetterCottonInitiative(BCI)verified •Recycledcotton. • Anevaluationofthetraceabilityofitscotton supplychain,covering: •Countryoforigin •Specifiedyarnspinningsuppliers •Specifiedfabricmillsuppliers •Specifiedcutmaketrimsuppliers. • Participationinand/or(financial)support ofmoresustainablecottonprogrammes. Questionnaire Aquestionnairewasusedtoassesstheselected companies.Forthefullquestionnaire,see appendix6.1.Thescoreswerecalculatedas follows: Policy: Questionsrelatedtopolicywereeach worth0.5points. Uptake:Companiesreceivedonepointper10% ofsustainablecottonusedintheirproducts. Traceability: Weawardedonepointforeach questionrelatedtotraceability. Followingthemethodologysetoutabove, companieswereawardedanumericalscore (0,0.125,0.25,0.5or1)foreachaspectoftheir reporting,givingatotalscorebetween0and 19.5.Theyweresubsequentlyassignedtooneof fivecategoriesreflectingtheirperformance:red (below3,indicatinglittleornoefforton sustainablesourcing),orange(3-7),yellow (7-11),andgreen(11ormore).Foreachsection (policy,actualuptake,traceability),similar colourcodinghasbeenapplied,reflectingthe actualscorerelativetothemaximumpossible scoreforthatsection.See the ranking in section 4.2. Transparencyandpublicreportingarevital fordemonstratingsustainabilityleadership. Somecompaniesmayperformwellinusing sustainablecotton,butfailtosharethisinforma- tionpublicly.Becausetherankingisbasedon 3. Methodology
12 Nocompanyachievedthemaximumavailable scoreof19.5points,mainlybecausenocompany uses100percentmoresustainablecotton accordingtothecriteriausedinthisresearch, orisfullytransparentaboutitspoliciesand cottonsupplychain.Ofthe37companies evaluated,onlyeightscoredthreepointsor more.Withascoreof12.0,IKEAGroupisthe bestperformingcompanyaswellasbeingthe onlycompanytorankinthegreenzone. CAGlobal(9.0),HMGroup(9.0)andAdidas Group(7.75)followintheyellowzone,while Nike(6.75),MS(5.5),VFCorporation(3.25), andKering(3.0)areintheorangezone. Another17companiesscoredlessthanthree points,whileafurther12providedlittleorno informationandthereforescorednopoints, allfallingintheredzone. Anumberofcompaniesparticipatein sustainablecottoninitiatives.Forexample, tenoftheassessedcompaniesaremembers oftheBCI.Companiesthatparticipatein BCIsupportactionsonminimizingtheuse ofhazardouspesticides,improvingworking conditions,addressingbiodiversityissuesand reducingwaterconsumption.Somecompanies alsoparticipateinothercollaborativeinitiatives orcottonprogrammes.Anumberofcompanies focusonusingmorerecycledcottoninsteadof, orinadditionto,usingBetterCotton,Fairtrade, organicorCmiA. Ingeneral,thereisstillasignificantlackofinfor- mationonsustainablecottonpolicies,actual uptake,andinformationonthetraceabilityof cotton.Asummaryoftheresultscanbefound below.Adetaileddescriptionbycompanycan befoundinAppendix6.2. 4. Summary of results 4.1 OVERALL THERE IS STILL A SIGNIFICANT LACK OF INFORMATION ON COTTON POLICIES, ACTUAL UPTAKE AND TRACEABILITY PHOTOSOLIDARIDAD
13 4.2 RANKING Company name Policy Uptake Traceability Maximumscore 3.50 11.00 5.00 IKEAGroup 2.00 8.00 2.00 CAGlobal 3.00 4.00 2.00 HMGroup 2.50 3.00 3.50 AdidasGroup 2.25 4.00 1.50 Nike,Inc. 2.75 2.00 2.00 MarksSpencer 2.00 3.00 0.50 VFCorporation 2.25 1.00 0.00 Kering 2.00 0.50 0.50 InditexGroup 2.50 0.00 0.00 BurberryGroupPLC 1.75 0.00 0.50 AssociatedBritishFoods 1.50 0.00 0.50 HanesbrandsInc. 1.00 0.00 1.00 Carrefour 1.75 0.00 0.00 PVH 1.75 0.00 0.00 CasinoGroup 1.25 0.00 0.00 ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd. 1.25 0.00 0.00 Macy’s,Inc. 1.25 0.00 0.00 Hudson’sBayCo. 0.50 0.00 0.50 Walmart 1.00 0.00 0.00 LVMH 0.75 0.00 0.00 TargetCorp 0.25 0.00 0.50 FastRetailing 0.50 0.00 0.00 GAPInc. 0.50 0.00 0.00 LBrands 0.50 0.00 0.00 Wesfarmers 0.00 0.00 0.50 AuchanGroupe 0.00 0.00 0.00 CoachInc. 0.00 0.00 0.00 Dillard’sInc. 0.00 0.00 0.00 FootLocker,Inc. 0.00 0.00 0.00 HermèsInternationalS.A. 0.00 0.00 0.00 JCPenney 0.00 0.00 0.00 LotteCo.Ltd. 0.00 0.00 0.00 NordstromInc. 0.00 0.00 0.00 RalphLaurenCorporation 0.00 0.00 0.00 Richemont 0.00 0.00 0.00 RossStores 0.00 0.00 0.00 TJX 0.00 0.00 0.00 19.50 12.00 9.00 9.00 7.75 6.75 5.50 3.25 3.00 2.50 2.25 2.00 2.00 1.75 1.75 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.00 1.00 0.75 0.75 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Total score Leading the way Well on the way Starting the journey Notyetinthe startingblocks
14 Thecompaniesanalyseddiffersubstantially intheirpoliciesonmoresustainablecotton. Amongthe37companiesresearched,nine standout.CAGlobal,Nike,Inc.,InditexGroup andHMGroupscoredbest,closelyfollowed byAdidasGroup,VFCorporation,Kering,Marks SpencerandIKEAGroup. CAGlobal,Nike,Inc.,andHMGrouphave committedtousing100percentcottonfrom moresustainablesourcesby2020.Adidas Groupisevenmoreambitious,andisaimingto achievethesamegoalby2018. Byitsowncriteria,IKEAGroupmetitsgoalof using100%cottonfrommoresustainable sourcesin2015.However,incalculatingits achievement,IKEAGroupincludesstandards suchastowardsBetterCottonande3cotton, whicharenotrecommendedbyPANUK, SolidaridadandWWF.Anotherinterestingcase ispresentedbyPHV.ItsbrandTommyHilfiger hascommittedto100percentcottonfrom moresustainablesourcesby2020.However, PVHhasnotformulated anygoalatagrouplevel,sodidnotobtain maximumpoints. Amongtheremainingcompanies,onlyMarks Spencerspecifiesacleartargetatagrouplevel (70percentby2020).Somehavenon-specific policies:forinstance,Burberryaimstousemore sustainablecotton,butdoesnotyetstatehow muchorbywhen. Inthecompanies’policies,sustainablecotton standardsseeminglyplaythemostprominent roleinaddressingproblemssuchastheuseof highlyhazardouspesticides(HHPs),wateruse, biodiversityandlabourrightsviolations.How- ever,thecompanieshardlygiveanyinformation aboutthecottonthatisnotcoveredbyamore sustainablecottonprogramme.Thisproblem isespeciallyapparentconcerningHHPs.Only CAGlobalscoresthefullpointsforitspolicy measuresoneliminatingHHPs. Waterseemstobethemostprominentissue amongthecompaniesresearched,followed bybiodiversity.Policymeasuresaddresswater notonlyviasustainablecottonstandards,but alsothroughmorestrategicallyintegrated approaches,includingthoseidentifiedbyNike, Inc.,Kering,VFCorporation,InditexandCA Global.Thesecompaniesscoredfullpointsfor waterissues.Onlytwocompaniesscoredfull pointsfortheirbiodiversitypolicies,CAGlobal andInditexGroup.Bothcompaniesaddress biodiversityissuesthroughthepromotionof organiccottonandavoidanceofpesticides. Incomparisontotheissuesmentionedabove, labourrightsviolationsoncottonfarmsreceive muchlessattention.Asidefrommembership ofcollaborativeinitiativeslikeBCIorbuying Fairtradecotton,noneofthecompanies researchedpresentsapolicytocombatlabour rightsviolationsatfarmlevelforitsentirecot- tonsupply.Notably,severalcompanies,regard- lessoftheiroverallperformance,avoidbuying cottonfromcountrieswithwell-documented rightsviolations,suchasSyria,Turkmenistan, andespeciallyUzbekistan. Cottonrecyclingisanimportantsteptowards sustainabletextileproduction.Hence,itis coveredinthisresearch.Fullpointsforpolicy measuresonrecyclingwereawardedtoIKEA Group,HMGroup,Nike,Inc.,MarksSpencer, VFCorporation,InditexGroup,Hanesbrands andWalmart.Throughdifferentapproaches, thesecompaniesimplementexpedientand systematicmeasuresthataddresstherecycling ofcottononagrouplevel.IKEAGroupindicates thattheprocessingofrecycledcottoninits productsplaysasignificantrolealready,as20 percentofitscottonusedin2015wasrecycled. OthercompaniessuchasKering,PVH,CA GlobalandAdidasGroupalsotakeactionon recycledcotton. 4.3 POLICY IN THE COMPANIES’ POLICIES, SUSTAINBLE COTTON STANDARDS SEEMINGLY PLAY THE MOST PROMINENT ROLE Summary of results
15 Notallcompaniesthathaveapolicy(ortarget) tousemoresustainablecottonreportontheir actualuptakeinproducts.Onlyeightofthe companiesresearchedhavepublishedsome informationontheircurrentsourcingofsus- tainablecotton. Thebestperformingcompanyforthisresearch overallandforactualuptakeisIKEAGroup. Byitsowncriteria,whichincludecounting towardsBetterCotton5 ande3cottonasmore sustainable,IKEAGroupalreadysources100per centofitscottonfrommoresustainablesourc- es.Ofthis,77.6percentmeetsthecriteriaused inthisassessment(57.6percentBCIcottonand 20percentrecycledcotton).Thisisthehighest reportedpercentageofsustainablecottonfor allcompaniesinthisresearch. Another18.4percentcomesfromfarmers workingtowardsBetterCotton,whilethe remaining4percentcomesfromother approvedsources,suchasthee3programme intheUnitedStates.IKEAGrouphasreported itsabsolutevolumeofallcotton,whichis 140,000metrictonnes. Thesecondbestperformingcompaniesfor actualuptakeareCAGlobalandAdidasGroup. Asof2015,CAGlobalpurchased30percent sustainablecottonproducedinaccordance withtheorganiccottonorBetterCottonstan- dards.CAGlobal’sremainingshareofcotton wasconventional,withsomecottonproducers workingtowardstheBetterCottonstandard. AdidasGroupreportsa43percentuseofBetter Cottonin2015.AdidasGroupalsostatesthat itusesorganiccottonand“anyotherformof sustainablyproducedcotton”,butdoesnot specifythepercentageshareorthestandards used.CAGlobalhaspublisheditstotalamount sourced(123.500mtonsin2015). NextforactualuptakeareHMGroupand MarksSpencer.HMGroupused31.4percent cottonfrommoresustainablesources(recy- cled,orproducedinaccordancewithorganicor BetterCottonstandards).Theremainingshare isconventionalcotton.MarksSpencerused 32percentmoresustainablecotton(recycled, organic,BetterCottonorFairtrade). Oftheremainingcompanies,onlyNike,Inc.and VFCorporationactuallyreportonthepercent- ageshareofmoresustainablecottonusedin theirrespectivesupplychains.In2015,Nike,Inc. used26percentcottonfrommoresustainable sources(recycled,organicorBetterCotton). VFCorporationreportedthatitreachedits goalofsourcing1percentofthecottoninits clothes,orapproximately1,800metrictonnes, frommoresustainablesourcescottonin2013.It hasnotprovidedanymorerecentreportonits cottonuse. Ofthecompaniesthatdonotreporthowmuch moresustainablecottontheyactuallyuse, Keringisaninterestingcase.Keringstatesthatit strivestosourceorganiccotton,andseveralof itsbrandsuseorganiccottonalready,including StellaMcCartney,BottegaVeneta,Alexander McQueen,GucciandPUMA.However,Kering doesnotspecifywhatshareofitsabsolute cottonvolumeisconsideredmoresustainable. PHVmentionsthatitsTommyHilfigerbrand sourcedaround514metrictonnesofBetter Cottonin2014,butdoesnotspecifywhatshare ofthecottonusedbytheentiregroupismore sustainable. Somecompanies,suchasCarrefourandInditex Group,reportusingorganiccotton,butdonot specifywhatshareoftheircottonisorganicor fromothermoresustainablesources. 4.4 ACTUAL UPTAKE 5 TowardsBetterCottonarecompanysupportedprojectsin countrieswhereBCIisnotpresent. Thissectionreceivedthelowestscoresforall brands.Fewcompaniesreportonthegeographic originsoftheircottonsupplyorpublishalistof manufacturersoffinishedproducts,fabricor yarn.Somecompaniesareusingcottontracea- bilitytoolsforpartoftheircottonuse,predomi- nantlythroughtheBCIorCottonConnect’ssupply chainmapping. HMGroupprovidesthemostcomprehensive insightsconcerningitssupplychainrelations onthefinalproductionstage,andistheonly companywhichalsoprovidesinformationon yarnandfabricmanufacturersfurtherdownits supplychain.Incontrast,HMGroupdoesnot specifywhatcountriesitsourcesitscottonfrom ortheabsolutevolumeofcottonsourced.HM Grouptracksitsmoresustainablecottonorders throughtheBCIandorganiccertification,buthas nofurthertrackingmeasuresforitsnon-certified cotton. IKEAGrouphaspublishedanoverviewofthe countriesoforiginfor86percentofitscotton sourcedin2015:India(36percent),Pakistan(21 percent),China(13percent),Turkey(7percent), USA(5percent)andBrazil(4percent),withthe remaining14percentfromother,unspecified countries.IKEAGroupdoesnotpublishinfor- mationconcerningitssupplychainrelationson finalproduction,includingthefabricandyarn manufacturingstage.Itstatesthatitconducteda numberoftraceabilityassessmentsforitscotton supplychainin2015,andwillextendtheseassess- mentstothefarmlevelin2016. Nike,Inc.achievedthesamescoreforthiscate- goryasIKEAGroup.Itprovidescomprehensive insightsconcerningitssupplierrelationsforthe finalproductionstage,butdoesnotreportinfor- mationregardingitsfabricandyarnmanufactur- ers.Nordoesitspecifywhichcountriesitsources itscottonfromorabsolutevolumesofcotton sourced.Nike,Inc.reportsthatithasidentified traceabilityofcottonasapriorityforthecom- pany,andiscollaboratingwiththeSustainable ApparelCoalition(SAC)onthisissue. 4.5 TRACEABILITY
16 Thenextbestperformingcompaniesontrace- abilityincludeCAGlobalandAdidasGroup. CAGlobalsourcesitscottonfromIndia(90 percent),China,Pakistan,BrazilandtheUS. CottonConnectprovidesCAGlobalwithvalue chainmapping.However,thecompanydoes notspecificallymentiontheuseofatraceability tooltotrackitsuseofnon-certifiedcotton.In May2016CAGlobalpublishedalistoffinished productmanufacturersforthefirsttime,butdid notpublishrespectiveinformationconcerning fabricandyarnmanufacturersfurtherdown thesupplychain.AdidasGroupalsoprovides comprehensiveinsightsconcerningitssupplier relationsforthefinalproductionstage,butdoes notpublishinformationregardingitsfabricand yarnmanufacturers.Itdoesnotclearlyspecify thecountrysourceofitscottonanddoesnot reporttheabsolutevolumeofcottonsourced. WhileAdidasGrouptracesthegeographic originsofitsmoresustainablecotton,itdoes notmentiontheuseofatraceabilitytoolforits non-certifiedcotton. AlthoughHanesbrandsInc.doesnotpresenta detailedpolicyforsourcingmoresustainable cottonorreportonitsactualuptake,itmentions thatitsourcesalmostallofitscottonfromthe UnitedStates,soreceivedabettertraceability scorethanmostotherlowscoringcompanies. MarksSpencerreportsthatithasdeveloped andimplementedasystemtoprovidetracea- bilityfortheprincipalrawmaterialsusedwithin its“GeneralMerchandise”supplychain,and thatittracksitsmoresustainablecottonorders throughtheBCIandorganiccertification.Kering reportsthatitsourcedaround25,000metric tonnesof“plantfibres”in2014butdoesnot specifytheexactshareofcotton.Itindicatesthat theUnitesStatesandAsiancountrieslikeChina andPakistanarekeysourcinglocations,buthas notpublishedaclearoverviewoforiginofthe cottonused.ABFtracksitsmoresustainablecot- tonordersthroughCottonConnect.Burberry Grouppubliclyreportsonapilottraceabilityand farmimpactreductionprojectforoneofitskey supplychainsoriginatinginPeru,butthereareno furtherdetailsoftheoutcomesofthisinitiative. Hudson’sBaypublishesalistoffactoriesproduc- ingprivatebrandapparelandtheHudson’sBay storebrands,butdoesnotspecifyapercentage shareofproductionvolume.Itclaimsthatnotall factorieshaveagreedtodisclosetheirinforma- tiontothepublic.TargetCorp.publishesalistofall factoriesproducingitsownbrandproducts,butit isunclearwhatpercentageofitsproductionvol- umethesefactoriesrepresent.SomeofWesfarm- ers’companies(Kmart,TargetandColes)grant insightsconcerningtheirsupplierrelationsonthe finalproductionstage,butWesfarmersdoesnot reportonanyothertraceabilitypolicies. Allothercompaniesprovidelittletonoinfor- mationontheirsupplychaintraceability.For instance,noneofthesecompaniesreportona traceabilitytoolfornon-certifiedcotton,nordo theyclearlyspecifywhichcountriestheircottonis comingfrom. MANY COMPANIES PROVIDE LITTLE TO NO INFORMATION ON THEIR SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILITY Summary of results
17 PHOTOSIDDHARTHTRIPATHY
18 Whilesomecompaniesworkhardtosetthe rightexample,mostappeartodolittleornoth- ingtoaddressthesustainabilityissuesassoci- atedwithcottongrowing.Thereistherefore significantroomforimprovementincompany sourcingandreportingonsustainablecotton. Reporting Thisreporthighlightspositivedevelopments andoutcomesachievedbysomecompanies, butclearlydemonstratesthewidespread absenceofpubliclyavailableinformationon sustainablecottonsourcing.12companiesdid notprovideanyinformation,andatotalof28 didnotreportontheircottonsourcing. Policy Thereisasignificantlackofinformationon sustainablecottonpolicies.Standardsplayan importantroleinaddressingwateruse,biodi- versity,hazardouspesticidesandlabourrights issues.However,fewcompaniesspecifywhat cotton-relatedpolicymeasurestheyimplement beyondthis.Labourrightsandrecyclingreceive lessattentionthanenvironmentalissuesin companies’sustainablecottonpolicies.Finally, onlyafewcompaniesspecifyclearandtime- boundtargetsformoresustainablecotton sourcing.Significantly,thecompanieswitha clearlydefinedtargetscoredbestintheoverall assessment. Actual uptake IKEAGroupscoresthehighestforthisreport.It obtains78percentofitscottonfromsources definedasmoresustainableinthisresearch.Six othercompaniesalsoreportthatpartoftheir cottonsupplyisfrommoresustainablesources: AdidasGroup,CAGlobal,HMGroup,Marks Spencer,Nike,Inc.,andVFCorporation. However,veryfewcompaniesclearlyreport theirabsolutevolumesofcottonsourced,so itremainsdifficulttoobtainaclearpictureof cottonsourcingoverall. Traceability SomecompaniesworkwiththeBCIandCotton- Connecttotracemoresustainablecottontoits source.However,publicinformationregarding non-certifiedcottonandthegeographicorigins Toreducethenegativesocialandenvironmen- talimpactsofcottongrowing,andtherisks theseposetotheirbusiness,companiesshould: • Adoptpoliciesonoverallcottonsustainability, andspecificallyonthekeytopicsofHHPs, sourcing,water,labourconditionsand recycling • Maptheircottonsupplychainsdownto countryoforiginofcotton • Calculatetheirvolumeofcottonusedannually • Setatargetforsustainablecottonsourcing by2020,includingthepercentageofBetter Cotton,organic,Fairtrade,CmiAandrecycled cotton • Developacompany-wideplanformeeting thetarget,includingallbrandsinthecompany andallrelevantdepartments–notjustCSRor sustainabilitystaff • JoinorganizationssuchasBCIand/orTextile Exchange • Seekadvicefromstandardsorganizationsand NGOs. Companiesthatuselargevolumesofcottonin theirproductshaveakeyroletoplayinencour- agingthefurtherexpansionofthesustainable cottonmarketandsupportingfarmerstoswitch tomoresustainableformsofproduction. Itisvitalthatall37ofthecompaniesassessedin thisreportsendclearmarketsignalsbysetting policies,increasingtheirpurchasesofcotton frommoresustainablesources,andreporting transparentlyontheirgoals,performanceand progresseachyear. ofcottonisrare.Informationisalsolimited regardingsupplychainrelationsatthefinal productionstage,andespeciallythefabricand yarnmanufacturingstage.Amongallcompanies researched,HMGroupdemonstratesbest practicesconcerningsupplychaintraceability, whileIKEAGroupprovidestheclearestinforma- tionabouttheoriginofitscotton. Other considerations Thecompaniesthatreceivedthehighestscores shareanumberofvaluesandgoals: • MembershipoftheBCI • Commitmenttouse100percentcottonfrom moresustainablesourcesby2020orearlier • Policyonreductionofwateruseduring cottonproduction • PolicymeasurestominimizeuseofHHPs • Policymeasuresonlabourrightsviolations • Policymeasuresoncottonrecycling. Incontrast,evenhighscoringcompaniesoffer limitedinformationregardingtraceabilityfor theirentirecottonsupply,supplychainrela- tions,absolutevolumesofcottonsourcedand countriesoforigin. Whiletherearemultiplecompaniesthatwork hardtosettherightexample,manyleading companiesandtheirbrandsinthecottonindus- trystillhavemuchroomforenvironmentaland socialimprovement. Mostofthecompaniesanalyseddonothave clearpoliciesregardingamoresustainable cottonsupply.Thesecompaniesdonotappear toprioritizesustainabilityorethicalbusiness regardingthesustainabilityoftheircotton supplies,oratleastfailtoadequatelyreport ontheireffortstodoso. 5.1 CONCLUSIONS 5.2 RECOMMENDATIONS 5. Conclusions and recommendations
19 6. Appendices Nr. Question Maximum points POLICY 3.5 1 Doesthecompanyhaveapolicytoreducetheimpactsofitscottonrawmaterialsupply? 0.5 2 Hasthecompanyapolicytoaddresstheeliminationofhazardouspesticide(HHP)use duringfieldproductionforitsentirecollection? 0.5 3 Hasthecompanyapolicytoaddressthereductionofwateruseduringfieldproduction? 0.5 4 Hasthecompanyapolicytoaddressbiodiversityissues? 0.5 5 Hasthecompanyapolicytoaddresscottonrecycling? 0.5 6 Hasthecompanyapolicytoaddresslabourrightsviolationsatthecottonproductionlevel? 0.5 7 Hasthecompanyatargettoachieve100%formoresustainableandtimeboundcottonuse? 0.5 ACTUAL UPTAKE 11.0 8 Doesthecompanyusemoresustainablecottonformorethan10%ofitsvolume? (CompanyneedtobeclearaboutWHICHmoresustainablecottontheyuse-only receivepointsforoneofourendorsedstandards) 1.0 9 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan20%ofitsvolume? 1.0 10 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan30%ofitsvolume? 1.0 11 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan40%ofitsvolume? 1.0 12 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan50%ofitsvolume? 1.0 13 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan60%ofitsvolume? 1.0 14 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan70%ofitsvolume? 1.0 15 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan80%ofitsvolume? 1.0 16 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonformorethan90%ofitsvolume? 1.0 17 Doesthecompanyusesustainablecottonfor100%ofitsvolume? 1.0 18 Doesthecompanyreportontheabsolutevolumeofallcotton? 1.0 TRACEABILITY 5.0 19 Doesthecompanyuseatraceabilitytooltotracktheiruseofnon-certifiedcotton toitsgeographicorigins? 1.0 20 Hasthecompanypublishedalistoffinishedproducts(garmenthometextiles)manufacturers? 1.0 21 Hasthecompanypublishedalistoffabricmanufacturers? 1.0 22 Hasthecompanypublishedalistofyarnmanufacturers? 1.0 23 Doesthecompanypublishalistofthecountryoforiginofthecottonused? 1.0 OTHER (NOT SCORED) 0.0 24 Doesthecompanyfinanciallysupporta(more)sustainablecottonprojectinthefield? Ifso,couldyoupleasebrieflymentionthedetails? 0.0 25 Isthecompanymember/supporteroforganizationsthatpromotemoresustainablecotton (e.g.BCI,CmiA,oranyother)?Ifyes,whichones? 0.0 6.1. QUESTIONNAIRE
20 6.2. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY ADIDAS GROUP Overall: 7.75 AdidasGroupscored7.75outof19.5points, makingitoneofthebestperformingcompa- nies.AdidasGroupaimstoprocess100percent BetterCottonby2018,andhasexceededthe40 percentthresholdasof2015. Policy: 2.25 AdidasGrouphassetatargettouse100per centBetterCottonby2018.AdidasGrouphas policiesthataddresshazardouspesticides, wateruse,biodiversityissues,cottonrecycling andlabourrightsviolations.AdidasGroup’s reportingindicatesthatmeasuresrelatedto pesticides,wateruse,biodiversityandlabour rightsareimplementedviatheBCI.However,it doesnotclearlyspecifytowhatextentitimple- mentscotton-relatedpolicymeasuresoutside thesecollaborativeinitiativestocoveritsentire cottonsupplychain. Actual uptake: 4.0 In2015,43percentofthecottonusedbyAdidas Groupwasconsideredmoresustainablein accordancewithBCIstandards.AdidasGroup alsoreportsusingorganiccotton,butdoesnot specifythecertificationstandardorthevolume used. Traceability: 1.5 AdidasGroupprovidescomprehensiveinsight concerningitssupplierrelationsduringthefinal productionstage,butdoesnotpublishinforma- tionregardingitsfabricandyarnmanufacturers. Also,AdidasGroupdoesnotclearlyspecify whichcountriesitsourcesitscottonfromorab- solutevolumeofcottonsourced.Adidastraces thegeographicoriginsofitsmoresustainable cotton,butdoesnotmentiontheuseofatrace- abilitytoolforitsnon-certifiedcotton. ASSOCIATED BRITISH FOODS (ABF) IncludesPrimark Overall: 2.0 AssociatedBritishFoods(ABF)scores2.0 outof19.5points,makingitoneoftheweaker performingcompanies.ABFdoesnotcommu- nicateanytargettoachieveamoresustainable cottonsupplyoritscurrentshareofsustainable cottonprocessed. Policy: 1.5 ABFdoesnotcommunicateanytargetto achievea100percentmoresustainablecotton supply.ABF’spoliciesaddresshazardous pesticides,wateruse,biodiversityissues,cotton recyclingandlabourrightsviolations.ABF reportsthatitimplementsmeasuresrelatedto pesticides,wateruse,biodiversityandlabour rightsduringthecottonproductionstage,via theCottonConnectprogramme.However,ABF doesnotclearlyspecifytowhatextentitimple- mentscotton-relatedpolicymeasuresoutside suchcollaborativeinitiativestocoveritsentire cottonsupplychain,includingconventional cotton.Also,althoughABFmentionsrecycling formultiplematerials,itdoesnotreportonthis initiativeforcotton. Actual uptake: 0 ABFdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitscotton processedisconsideredmoresustainable.ABF mentionssomeresultsofitsCottonConnect programme,butdoesnotcommunicatewhat partoftheircottonusecanbeconsideredmore sustainable,hencenopointscanbegiven. Traceability: 0.5 ABFtracksitsmoresustainablecottonorders throughtheCottonConnectprogramme. However,ABFdoesnotspecificallymention theuseofatraceabilitytooltotrackitsuseof conventionalcotton.Also,ABFdoesnotspecify whichcountriesitssourcesitscottonfromorits absolutevolumeofcottonsourced.Thesame issueappliestotraceabilityofitssupplychainre- lationsforfinishedproductsandfabricandyarn manufacturing:ABFprovidesonlysomevague informationonthecountrylevel. AUCHAN GROUPE IncludesSimplyMarket,Jumbo,PãodeAçucar Overall: 0 AuchanGroupescores0outof19.5points,mak- ingitoneoftheworstperformingcompanies. AuchanGroupedoesnotcommunicateanytar- gettoachieveamoresustainablecottonsupply, reportwhatshareofitscurrentcottonsupplyis consideredmoresustainable,orcommunicate membershipofanycollaborativeinitiativeon moresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 AuchanGroupedoesnotprovideconcrete reportingonitssustainablecottonpolicyto addressissuessuchashazardouspesticides, wateruse,biodiversityissues,cottonrecycling orlabourrightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 AuchanGroupedoesnotspecifywhatshare ofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0 AuchanGroupeisnottransparentwithrespect toitssupplychainingeneralorforitscotton specifically. SCOREDZERO
21 BURBERRY GROUP Overall: 2.25 BurberryGroupscores2.25outof19.5points, makingitoneoftheweakerperformingcom- panies.BurberryGroupdoesnotcommunicate anytargettoachievea100percentmoresus- tainablecottonsupplyorwhatshareofitscot- toniscurrentlyconsideredmoresustainable. Policy: 1.75 BurberryGroup’spoliciesaddressissues concerninghazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingandlabourrights violations.Itimplementsmeasuresviacollab- orativeinitiatives,suchastheCottonConnect programmeandBCI.However,BurberryGroup doesnotclearlyspecifytowhatextentitimple- mentscotton-relatedpolicymeasuresoutside ofthesecollaborativeinitiativestocoveritsen- tirecottonsupplychain,includingconventional cotton.Furthermore,althoughBurberryGroup hasformulatedagoaltomovetowardgreater useofsustainableandrecycledmaterialsand processes,itdoesnotreportontheoutcomeof policymeasuresconcerningcottonrecycling. AlthoughBurberryGroupgenerallyreportsthat itaimstoreducetheenvironmentalimpactof itsthreekeyrawmaterials–leather,cottonand cashmere–itdoesnotreportacleartargetto usemoresustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 BurberryGroupdoesnotspecifywhatshare ofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0.5 BurberryGrouppubliclyreportsonapilot traceabilityandfarmimpactreductionproject foroneofitskeysupplychainsoriginatingin Peru,butdoesnotprovideanyfurtherinfor- mation.BurberryGroupdoesnotspecifyfrom whichcountriesitsourcesitscottonorthe absolutevolumeofcottonsourced.Thesame issueappliestotraceabilityofitssupplychain relationsonfinishedproducts,orfabricand yarnmanufacturing. CA GLOBAL Overall: 9.0 CAGlobalscores9.0outof19.5points,making itthesecondbestperformingcompany.CA Globalaimstosource100percentmoresus- tainablecottonby2020,andhasexceededthe 30percentthresholdasof2015. Policy: 3.0 CAGlobalhascommittedtousing100per centmoresustainablecottonby2020.The company’spoliciesaddressissuesconcerning hazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversity, cottonrecyclingandlabourrightsviolations. CAGlobalimplementsmeasuresviaseveral collaborativeinitiatives,suchastheCot- tonConnectprogramme,BCI,theOrganic CottonAcceleratorandTextileExchange.CA Global’spolicymeasureslinkstronglywithCA Foundation’soperations.However,concerning labourrights,CAGlobalhasnotyetexplicitly addressedtheentirecottonproductionchain. Also,thecompanydoesnotreceivemaximum pointsforitscottonrecyclingpolicybecause measuresareonlyimplementedonapilotlevel inEuropeandSouthAmerica. Actual uptake: 4.0 Asof2015,morethan30percentofthecotton purchasedbyCAGlobalisconsideredmore sustainableinaccordancewiththeBCIand/or organiccottonstandards.Theremainingshare ofcottonprocessedisconventionalcottonwith someprogresstowardBCIcottonstandards. Traceability: 2.0 CAGlobalsourcesitscottonfromIndia(90 percent),China,Pakistan,BrazilandtheUS.It implementsvaluechainmappingwithCotton- Connect,butdoesnotspecificallymention theuseofatraceabilitytooltotrackitsuseof non-certifiedcotton.CAGlobalindicatesthat itsourcedabout123,500metrictonnesofcot- tonin2015.In2016,CAGlobalpublishedalist offinishedproductsmanufacturersforthefirst time,butdidnotpublishrespectiveinformation concerningsuppliersfurtherupthesupply chain,namelyfabricandyarnmanufacturers. PHOTOSOLIDARIDAD
22 CHINA RESOURCES ENTERPRISE LTD. IncludesVanguardsupermarkets,NgFung Overall: 1.25 ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd.(ChinaRe- sourcesTextiles)scores1.25outof19.5points, makingitoneoftheweakerperformingcom- panies.ChinaResourcesEnterprisedoesnot communicateanytargettoachievea100per centmoresustainablecottonsupplyorwhat shareofitscottoniscurrentlyconsideredmore sustainable.Itdoesnotcommunicatewhether itisamemberofanycollaborativeinitiativeon moresustainablecotton. Policy: 1.25 ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd.statesin its“GreenProcurement”initiativethatthe companyhasbeenincreasingitsprocurement oforganiccotton.However,itdoesnotclearly specifytowhatextentitimplementscotton- relatedpolicymeasurestocoveritsentire cottonsupplychain,includingconventional cotton–forexample,measurestoeliminate hazardouspesticideuseduringfieldproduction. ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd.doesnotreport anydetailedpolicyaboutcottonrecyclinginitia- tives,nordoesitcommunicateacleartargetto usemoresustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd.doesnot specifywhatshareofitscottonprocessedis consideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 ChinaResourcesTextilespublishesalistof 12suppliers,buthasnotpublishedanexplicit listof,orfinishedproducts,suchasfabric.It doesnotspecificallymentionanytraceability tooltotrackitsuseofnon-certifiedcotton. Also,ChinaResourcesEnterpriseLtd.doesnot specifyfromwhichcountriesitsourcescotton ortheabsolutevolumeofcottonprocessed. CARREFOUR Overall: 1.75 Carrefourscores1.75outof19.5points,making itoneoftheweakerperformingcompanies. Itdoesnotcommunicateatargettoachievea 100percentmoresustainablecottonsupplyor whatshareofitscottoniscurrentlyconsidered moresustainable.Carrefourdoesnotreport membershipofanycollaborativeinitiativeon moresustainablecotton. Policy: 1.75 Carrefourdoesnotcommunicateanexplicit policytoaddresstheeliminationofhazard- ouspesticides,reducewateruseoraddress biodiversityduringfieldproductionforitsentire collectionoftextileproducts.However,some ofitsprivatelabeltextileproducts(TEXand TEXHome)aremadeoforganiccottonandare GOTScertified.Carrefourdoesnotpublishpol- icymeasurestoaddresslabourrightsviolations atthecottonproductionlevel.Also,although Carrefourimplementsrecyclingmeasures relatedtowaste,thecompanydoesnotreport oncottonrecycling.Carrefourdoesnotcom- municateacleartargettousemoresustainable cottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 Carrefouroffersproductsthatcontainorganic cottonandareGOTScertified.However,Carre- fourdoesnotspecifyitsoverallshareofmore sustainablecottonprocessed. Traceability: 0 Carrefourisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. CASINO GROUP IncludesMonoprix,LeaderPrice,Boutchou, Arkitect,ToutSimplement…,Qualitá Overall: 1.25 CasinoGroupscores1.25outof19.5points, makingitisoneoftheweakerperforming companies.CasinoGroupdoesnotcommuni- cateanytargettoachieveamoresustainable cottonsupply,anddoesnotreportwhatshare ofitscurrentcottonsupplyisconsideredmore sustainable.Itdoesnotcommunicatewhether itisamemberofanycollaborativeinitiativeon moresustainablecotton. Policy: 1.25 CasinoGrouponlyprovidessomegeneral reportingregardinginitiativestoreducetheim- pactsofitscottonrawmaterialsupplythrough sourcingorganiccottonforsomeofitsgar- ments.Itdoesnotclearlyspecifytowhatextent itimplementscotton-relatedpolicymeasures tocoveritsentirecottonsupplychain.Casino Groupdoesnotreportanydetailedpolicyabout cottonrecyclinginitiatives,andonlyprovides informationforconsumersonhowtorecycle/ donatetheirusedclothing.CasinoGroupdoes notcommunicateacleartargettousemore sustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 CasinoGroupdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonprocessedisconsideredmoresustain- able. Traceability: 0 CasinoGroupisnottransparentwithrespect toitssupplychainingeneralorforcotton specifically. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY
23 COACH, INC. Overall: 0 Coach,Inc.scores0outof19.5points,makingit oneoftheworstperformingcompanies.Coach, Inc.doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachieve amoresustainablecottonsupply,anddoesnot reportwhatshareofitscurrentcottonsupplyis consideredmoresustainable.Itdoesnotcom- municatewhetheritisamemberofanycollabo- rativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 Coach,Inc.doesnotprovideconcretereporting onasustainablecottonpolicytoaddressissues suchashazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodi- versityissues,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations. Actual uptake: 0 Coach,Inc.doesnotspecifywhatshareofitscot- tonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 Coach,Inc.isnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. DILLARD’S INC. Overall: 0 Dillard’sInc.scores0outof19.5points,makingit oneoftheworstperformingcompanies.Dillard’s Inc.doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachieve amoresustainablecottonsupply,anddoesnot reportwhatshareofitscurrentcottonsupply isconsideredmoresustainable.Itdoesnot communicatewhetheritisamemberofanyacol- laborativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 Dillard’sInc.doesnotprovideconcretereport- ingonpoliciestoaddressissuessuchashazard- ouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversity,cotton recyclingorlabourrightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 Dillard’sInc.doesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 Dillard’sInc.isnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. FAST RETAILING IncludesUniqlo,ComptoirdeCotonniers,J Brand,GU,Theory Overall: 0.5 FastRetailingscores0.5outof19.5points,mak- ingitoneoftheweakestperformingcompanies. FastRetailingdoesnotcommunicateatargetto achievea100percentmoresustainablecotton supplyorwhatshareofitscottoniscurrent- lyconsideredmoresustainable.Also,Fast Retailingdoesnotcommunicatewhetheritisa memberofanycollaborativeinitiativeonmore sustainablecotton. Policy: 0.5 FastRetailinghaspublishedverylittleinforma- tiononanexistingsustainablecottonpolicyto addressissuessuchashazardouspesticides, wateruse,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingor labourrightsviolations.FastRetailingonlyspec- ifiesthatitverifiesthesustainableoperationsof someofitsChinesecottonproviders,including theappropriateuseofpesticidesandwater.The companyreportsthatitcollectsgarmentsfrom itscustomerswithinits“all-productrecycling initiative”,butimplementsthisinitiativeat storesforonlytwobrands:UniqloandGU.Fast Retailingdoesnotcommunicateacleartarget tousemoresustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 FastRetailingdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 FastRetailingisnottransparentwithrespectto itssupplychainingeneralorcottonspecifically. SCOREDZERO SCOREDZERO
24 PHOTOH.P.ALTINGVONGEUSAU
25 FOOT LOCKER, INC. Overall: 0 FootLocker,Inc.scores0outof19.5points, makingitoneoftheworst-performingcompa- nies.FootLocker,Inc.doesnotcommunicate anytargettoachieveamoresustainablecotton supply,anddoesnotreportwhatpercentageof itscurrentcottonsupplyisconsideredsustain- able.FootLocker,Inc.doesnotcommunicate whetheritisamemberofanycollaborative initiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 FootLocker,Inc.doesnotprovideconcrete reportingonitssustainablecottonpolicyto addressissuessuchashazardouspesticides,wa- teruse,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabour rightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 FootLocker,Inc.doesnotspecifywhatshare ofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0 FootLocker,Inc.isnottransparentwithrespect toitssupplychainorforcottonspecifically. GAP INC. Overall: 0.5 GapInc.scores0.5outof19.5points,makingit oneoftheweakestperformingcompanies.Gap Inc.doesnotcommunicateatargettoachievea 100percentmoresustainablecottonsupply,or whatshareofitscottoniscurrentlyconsidered moresustainable.Also,GapInc.doesnotcom- municatewhetheritisamemberofanycollabo- rativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0.5 GapInc.haspublishedverylittleinformationon anexistingsustainablecottonpolicytoaddress issuessuchashazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations.GapInc.onlycommunicatesthatthe companyisdevelopingastrategytoprotect peopleandtheenvironmentfromthenega- tiveimpactsofcottonproduction.Itdoesnot reportacleartargettousemoresustainable cottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 GapInc.doesnotspecifywhatshareofitscot- tonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 GapInc.publishesonlyaverygeneraloverview ofsourcecountriesforfactoriesthatsupply brandedclothing;itdoesnotspecifywhich countriesitsourcescottonfromoritsabsolute volumeofcottonsourced.GapInc.doesnot specificallymentiontheuseofatraceabilitytool totrackthecompany’scottonuse. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY HM GROUP IncludesMonki,Weekday,CheapMonday, OtherStories Overall: 9.0 HMGroupscores9.0ofout19.5points, makingitthesecondbestperformingcompany. HMGroupaimstosource100percentmore sustainablecottonby2020,andhasexceeded the30percentthresholdasof2015. Policy: 2.5 HMGrouphasatargettouse100percent moresustainablecottonby2020.HMGroup haspoliciesthataddressissuesconcerning hazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversity, cottonrecyclingandlabourrightsviolations. HMGroup’sreportingindicatesthatit implementsmeasuresviaseveralcollaborative initiatives,suchastheBCIandtheOrganicCot- tonAccelerator.However,HMdoesnotclearly specifytowhatextentitimplementscotton-re- latedpolicymeasuresoutsidetheseinitiatives tocoveritsentirecottonsupplychainincluding conventionalcotton. Actual uptake: 3.0 In2015,30percentofthecottonusedbythe HMGroupwasconsideredmoresustainable. Thiscottonwaseitherrecycledorproduced inaccordancetoorganiccottonand/orBCI standards.Theremainingsharewasconven- tionalcotton. Traceability: 3.5 Amongallcompaniesassessed,HMGroup providesthemostcomprehensiveinsights concerningitssupplychainrelationsduring thefinalproductionstage,aswellasthefabric andyarnmanufacturingstage.However,HM Groupdoesnotspecifyfromwhichcountries itsourcesitscottonoritsabsolutevolumeof cottonprocured.HMGrouptracksitsmore sustainablecottonordersthroughtheBCIand organiccertification.However,furthertracking measuresforthecompany’snon-certified cottonhavenotyetbeenimplemented. SCOREDZERO
26 HANESBRANDS, INC. IncludesChampion,Wonderbra Overall: 2.0 Hanesbrands,Inc.scores2.0outof19.5points, makingitoneoftheweakerperformingcom- panies.Hanesbrands,Inc.doesnotcommuni- cateanytargettoachievea100percentmore sustainablecottonsupply,orwhatshareofits currentcottonsupplyisconsideredsustainable. Itdoesnotcommunicatewhetheritisamember ofanycollaborativeinitiativeonmoresustainable cotton. Policy: 1.0 Hanesbrands,Inc.reportsthatitrecognizesthat growingcottonhasanimpactontheenviron- ment,includingwaterusageandtheuseofpes- ticidesandherbicides.However,Hanesbrands, Inc.doesnotprovideconcretereportingonits sustainablecottonpolicytoaddressissuessuch ashazardouspesticides,water,biodiversityor labourrightsviolations.Nordoesitreportaclear targettousemoresustainablecottoninthefu- ture,thoughthecompanyreportsthatitrecycles cottonfabricwastefromcuttingoperations. Actual uptake: 0 Hanesbrands,Inc.doesnotspecifywhatshare ofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 1.0 Hanesbrands,Inc.sourcesalmostallofitscotton fromtheUnitedStates,butdoesnotreport whichcountriessupplytheremaindernortheab- solutevolumeofcottonsourced.Thesameissue appliestotraceabilityinregardstoHanesbrands, Inc.’ssupplychainrelationsonfinishedproducts, andfabricandyarnmanufacturing. HERMÈS INTERNATIONAL S.A. Overall: 0 HermèsInternationalS.A.scores0outof19.5, makingitoneoftheworstperformingcompa- nies.HermèsInternationalS.A.doesnotcommu- nicateanytargettoachieveamoresustainable cottonsupply,anddoesnotreportwhatshare ofitscurrentcottonsupplyisconsideredmore sustainable.Itdoesnotcommunicatewhether itisamemberofanycollaborativeinitiativeon moresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 HermèsInternationalS.A.doesnotprovidecon- cretereportingonitssustainablecottonpolicy toaddressissuessuchashazardouspesticides, wateruse,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabour rightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 HermèsInternationalS.A.doesnotspecifywhat shareofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0 HermèsInternationalS.A.isnottransparentwith respecttoitssupplychainofingeneralorfor cottonspecifically. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY HUDSON’S BAY CO. Overall: 1.0 Hudson’sBayCo.scores1.0outof19.5points, makingitoneoftheweakerperformingcompa- nies.Hudson’sBayCo.doesnotcommunicatea targettoachievea100percentmoresustain- ablecottonsupplyorwhatshareofitscotton currentlyprocessedisconsideredsustainable. Itdoesnotcommunicatewhetheritisa memberofanycollaborativeinitiativeonmore sustainablecotton. Policy: 0.5 Hudson’sBayCo.doesnotreportacleartarget tousemoresustainablecotton.Itreportsthat itskeysupplier(M/STrident)forbrandedtowels isamemberoftheBCI,butdoesnotcommuni- cateanypolicyonsustainablecottononagroup level.Thisissuealsoappliestocottonrecycling andlabourrightsissuesonthecottongrowing level.Hudson’sBay’ssubsidiaryGaleriaKaufhof offerstextileproductsthatcontainorganic cotton,mainlycertifiedtothestandardsOCS 100,GOTS,orbioRe.Thesecertificationsat leastpartiallyaddressissuessuchastheuseof hazardouspesticides,waterconsumptionand biodiversity. Actual uptake: 0 Hudson’sBayCo.doesnotspecifywhatshare ofitscottonprocessedisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0.5 Hudson’sBayCo.publishesalistoffactories producingprivatebrandapparelandthe Hudson’sBaystorebrands,butdoesnotspecify apercentageshareoftotalproductionvolume. AccordingtoHudson’sBayCo.,thisisbecause notallfactorieshaveagreedtodisclosetheir informationtothepublic.Hudson’sBaydoes notspecificallymentionuseofatraceabilitytool totrackitsuseofnon-certifiedcotton.Also, Hudson’sBayCo.doesnotspecifywhichcoun- triesitsourcesitscottonfromoritsabsolute volumesourced. SCOREDZERO
27 IKEA GROUP Overall: 12.0 IKEAGroupscored12.0outof19.5points.Itis thebestperformingcompanyforthisresearch concerningpolicy,actualuptake.Byitsown criteria,IKEAGroupmetitsgoalofusing100% cottonfrommoresustainablesourcesin2015. However,incalculatingitsachievement,IKEA Groupincludesthee3standardanditsown initiative‘towardsBetterCotton’whichare notrecommendedbyPANUK,Solidaridad andWWF.Accordingtocriteriausedinthis research,77.6percentofIKEA’ssupplyismore sustainable(57.6percentBCIcottonand20per centrecycledcotton). Policy: 2.0 IKEA Group’s policy addresses issues concerning hazardous pesticides, water use,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingandlabour rightsviolations.Itsreportingindicatesthatit implementsmeasuresrelatedtopesticides, wateruse,biodiversityandlabourrightsviathe BCI,towardsBetterCottonande3.IKEAGroup’s goalistouseonlymoresustainablecottonby theendoffinancialyear2015,soithasnotset apost-2016goal.Itisnotclearwhetherthe companyplanstoachieve100percentmore sustainablecottonwithoutstandardssuchas towardsBetterCottonande3cotton. Actual uptake: 8.0 Byitsowncritieria,IKEAGroupmetitsgoal ofusing100%cottonfrommoresustainable sourcesin2015.However,incalculatingits achievement,IKEAGroupincludesthee3 standardanditsowninitiative‘towardsBetter Cotton’whicharenotrecommendedbyPAN UK,SolidaridadandWWF.Accordingtocriteria usedinthisresearch,77.6percentofIKEA’s supplyismoresustainable(57.6percent BetterCottonand20percentrecycledcotton). Fortheremainder,18.4percentissourcedfrom farmersworkingtowardstheBetterCotton standard,and4percentise3. Traceability: 2.0 IKEAGrouppublishesanoverviewofthe countriesoforiginfor86percentofitscotton sourcedin2015:India(36percent),Pakistan (21percent),China(13percent),Turkey(7per cent),US(5percent)andBrazil(4percent), withtheremaining14percentsourcedfrom other,unspecifiedcountries.Itreportsthatit sourcedabout140,000metrictonnesofcotton in2015.IKEAGroupdoesnotpublishInforma- tionconcerningsupplychainrelationsforfinal productsorfabricandyarnmanufacturing.It statesthatishasconductedanumberoftrace- abilityassessmentsforitscottonsupplychainin 2015,andwillextendtheseassessmentstothe farmlevelin2016. INDITEX GROUP IncludesZara,PullBear,MassimoDutti, Bershka Overall: 2.5 InditexGroupscored2.5outof19.5points,mak- ingitoneoftheweakerperformingcompanies. InditexGroupdoesnotcommunicateanytarget toachieveamoresustainablecottonsupply, orwhatshareofitscurrentcottonsupplyis consideredmoresustainable. Policy: 2.5 InditexGroup’spoliciesaddressissuesconcern- inghazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversi- ty,cottonrecyclingandlabourrightsviolations. InditexGroupimplementsmeasuresviaseveral collaborativeinitiatives,suchasBCIandTextile Exchange.However,itdoesnotclearlyspecify towhatextentitimplementspolicymeasuresto coverthecompany’sentirecottonsupplychain, especiallyinregardstohazardouspesticidesuse andlabourrightsviolations.Inditexgroupdoes notreportacleartargettousemoresustainable cottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 InditexGroupreportsonusingorganiccotton. However,itdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 InditexGroupisnottransparentwithrespectto itssupplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifi- cally.InditexGrouphasapolicytoimprovethe traceabilityofallproduction,butdoesnotspec- ifyreportingrelatedtonon-certifiedcotton.
28 JCPENNEY Overall: 0 JCPenneyscores0outof19.5points,making itoneoftheworstperformingcompanies. JCPenneydoesnotcommunicateanytargetto achievea100percentmoresustainablecotton supply,anddoesnotreportwhatpercentageof itscurrentsupplyisconsideredmoresustainable. Itdoesnotcommunicatewhetheritisamember ofanycollaborativeinitiativeonmoresustainable cotton. Policy: 0 JCPenneydoesnotprovideconcretereporting onitssustainablecottonpolicytoaddressissues suchashazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodi- versityorcottonrecycling.JCPenney’slabour policymeasuresindicatethatcomplianceteams mustmeetincreasedexpectationsanddealwith thecomplexityofcottonfromUzbekistan,butdo notspecifywhetherlabourrightsviolationsare addressedfortheentirecottonsupplychain. Actual uptake: 0 JCPenneydoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 JCPenneyisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. KERING IncludesPUMA,Gucci,Volcom,StellaMcCartney Overall:3.0 Keringscores3.0outof19.5points,makingitone oftheweakerperformingcompanies.Keringdoes notcommunicateanytargettoachieveamoresus- tainablecottonsupply,orwhatshareofitscurrent supplyisconsideredmoresustainable. Policy:2.0 Kering’spoliciesaddressissuesconcerning hazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversity, cottonrecyclingandlabourrightsviolations.Kering implementsmeasuresviaseveralcollaborativeiniti- atives,suchasTextileExchangeandOrganicCotton Accelerator.Keringdoesnotclearlyspecifytowhat extentcotton-relatedpolicymeasurescoverKer- ing’sentirecottonsupplychain,withtheexception ofmeasuresaimedatwateruse.Thecompanydoes notcommunicateacleartargettousemoresus- tainablecottoninthefuture.ThoughKeringdoes notreportonageneralpolicyconcerningcotton recycling,someofitsbrands(PUMA,Volcomand StellaMcCartney)haverecyclingmeasuresinplace. Actualuptake:0.5 Keringstatesthatitstrivestowardorganiccotton sourcing,andseveralofitsbrandsprocessorganic cottonalready,includingStellaMcCartney,Bottega Veneta,AlexanderMcQueen,GucciandPUMA. However,Keringdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitsab- solutecottonvolumeisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability:0.5 Keringreportsthatitsourcedaround25,000metric tonnesof“plantfibers”in2014,butdoesnotspecify theexactshareofcotton.ItindicatesthattheUnit- edStatesandAsiancountrieslikeChina,Vietnam, ThailandandPakistanarekeysourcinglocations forcotton,buthasnotpublishedaclearoverview oforiginofthecottonusedinitssupplychain.The sameissueappliestotraceabilityinregardstoits supplychainrelationsonfinishedproducts,and fabricandyarnmanufacturing.Keringhasapolicy toimprovethetraceabilityofitsrawmaterials,and statesthatthroughworkingwithsuppliersforthe “EnvironmentalProfitLoss”assessment(EPL) cottontrackingwillimprove.However,itdoesnot specifyanycurrentprogressonthisinitiative. L BRANDS (LIMITED BRANDS) DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY L BRANDS (LIMITED BRANDS) Overall: 12.0 IncludesVictoria’sSecret,Pink,LaSenza Overall: 0.5 LBrandsscores0.5outof19.5points,making itoneoftheweakestperformingcompanies. LBrandsdoesnotcommunicateanytargetto achievea100percentmoresustainablecotton supplyorwhatshareofitscottoniscurrently consideredmoresustainable.Itdoesnotcom- municatewhetheritisamemberofanycollabo- rativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0.5 LBrandshaspublishedverylittleinformationon anexistingsustainablecottonpolicytoaddress issuessuchashazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversityissues,cottonrecyclingorlabour rightsviolations.LBrandsonlycommunicates thatitestablishedapilotprogramin2007to sourceFairtradecertifiedorganiccottonfrom primarilywomenfarmersinBurkinaFaso. However,thelatestreportingonthisdatesback to2012.LBrandsdoesnotcommunicateaclear targettousemoresustainablecottoninthe future. Actual uptake: 0 LBrandsdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitscot- tonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 LBrandsisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorcottonspecifically. SCOREDZERO
29 LVMH IncludesLouisVuitton,DonnaKaren, MarcJacobs,ChristianDior Overall: 0.75 LVMHscores0.75outof19.5points,makingit oneoftheweakestperformingcompanies.It doesnotcommunicateaconcretetargetto achieveamoresustainablecottonsupplyand doesnotreportwhatshareofitscurrentsupply isconsideredmoresustainable.LVMHdoesnot communicatewhetheritisamemberofanycol- laborativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0.75 LVMHreportsthatitimplementsseveral measurestoreducetheimpactofitscottonraw materialsupply,especiallyregardingitswater consumption.Thecompanyalsomentions goalstoincreasetheamountofBetterCotton used,butdoesnotincludespecifictargets. LVMHdoesnotprovideanyinformationon policiesregardingtheuseofhazardouspesti- cides,biodiversity,recyclingorlabourrights relatedtoitsentirecottonsupplychain. Actual uptake: 0 LVMHdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitscotton isconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 LVMHisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. LVMHreportsthatthetraceabilityandcompli- anceofthematerialsusedinitsproductsisa priorityforthecompany,butdoesnotreporton anymeasurestotrackitsuseofcotton. PHOTOANNEMARIEKEVANDENBROEK
30 MARKS SPENCER Overall: 5.5 MarksSpencerscores5.5outof19.5points, makingitoneofthebetterperformingcom- panies.Itaimstoprocess70percentmore sustainablecottonby2020,andhasexceeded the30percentthresholdasof2015. Policy: 2.0 MarksSpencerhasatargettouse70percent moresustainablecottonby2020.Itspolicies addressissuesconcerninghazardouspesti- cides,wateruse,biodiversity,cottonrecycling andlabourrightsviolations.MarksSpencer’s reportingindicatesthatitimplementsmeasures viaseveralcollaborativeinitiatives,suchasthe BCIandFairtrade.However,itisnotclearwhat policymeasuresitimplementsoutsidethese initiativestocoveritsentirecottonsupplychain. Actual uptake: 3.0 In2015,32percentofthecottonusedbythe MarksSpencerwasconsideredmoresus- tainable,meetingorganic,BCIand/orFairtrade standards.Theremainingsharewasconven- tionalcotton Traceability: 0.5 MarksSpencerreportsthatithasdeveloped andimplementedasystemtoprovidetraceabili- tyfortheprincipalrawmaterialswithinits“Gen- eralMerchandise”supplychain.Thecompany alsoreportsthatittracksitsmoresustainable cottonordersthroughtheBCIandorganiccer- tification.However,MarksSpencerdoesnot specificallymentiontheuseofatraceabilitytool totrackitsuseofnon-certifiedcotton.Marks Spencerdoesnotspecifywhichcountriesits cottonissourcedfrom,andisnotclearabout itsabsolutevolumeofcottonsourced.The sameissueappliestotraceabilityinsupplychain relationsonfinishedproducts,andfabricand yarnmanufacturing. NIKE, INC. Overall: 6.75 Nike,Inc.scores6.75outof19.5points,makingit oneofthebetterperformingcompanies.Nike aimstoprocess100percentmoresustainable cottonby2020,andhasexceededthe20percent thresholdasof2015. Policy: 2.75 Nike,Inc.hasatargettousemoresustainable cottonby2020.Nike,Inc.’spoliciesaddress issuesincludinghazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingandlabourrights violation.Nike,Inc.reportsthatitimplements measuresrelatedtopesticides,wateruse,bio- diversityandlabourrightsviatheBCI.Withthe exceptionofwateruse,Nike,Inc.doesnotclearly specifytowhatextentcottonrelatedpolicy measurescoveritsentirecottonsupplychain. Actual uptake: 2.0 In2015,26percentofthecottonusedbyNike, Inc.wasconsideredmoresustainable.Thiscot- tonwaseitherrecycledorproducedinaccord- ancewithorganiccottonand/orBCIstandards. Theremainingsharewasconventionalcotton. Traceability: 2.0 Nike,Inc.providescomprehensiveinsightscon- cerningitssupplierrelationsatthefinalproduc- tionstage,butdoesnotprovideinformationre- gardingitsfabricandyarnmanufacturers.Itdoes notspecifywhichcountriesitsourcesitscotton fromortheabsolutevolume.However,Nike,Inc. reportsthatthetraceabilityofitscottonhasbeen identifiedasapriority,anditcollaborateswiththe SustainableApparelCoalition(SAC). MACY’S, INC. IncludesAmericanRag,barIII,Belgique, JMCollection,StyleCo. Overall: 1.25 Macy’s,Inc.scores1.25outof19.5points,making itoneoftheweakerperformingcompanies.It doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachievea 100percentmoresustainablecottonsupplyor whatshareofitscottoniscurrentlyconsidered moresustainable.Macy’sInc.doesnotcommu- nicatewhetheritisamemberofanycollabora- tiveinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 1.25 Macy’sInc.onlyprovidessomegeneralreport- ingonreducingimpactsfromitscottonraw materialsupply,suchassourcingorganiccotton andaimingtotraceproductionofitsorganic cotton.Itdoesnotclearlyspecifywhatpolicy measuresitimplementstocoverthecompany’s entirecottonsupplychain,includingcon- ventionalcotton.Macy’sInc.doesnotreport anydetailedpolicyaboutcottonrecycling initiatives,andonlyprovidesinformationfor consumersonhowtorecycle/donatetheirused clothing.Macy’sInc.doesnotcommunicatea cleartargettousemoresustainablecottonin thefuture. Actual uptake: 0 Macy’s,Inc.doesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 Macy’s,Inc.isnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorcottonspecifically. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY
31 NORDSTROM INC. Overall: 0 NordstromInc.scores0outof19.5points,mak- ingitoneoftheworstperformingcompanies. Itdoesnotcommunicateatargettoachievea 100percentmoresustainablecottonsupplyor whatshareofitscottonprocessediscurrently consideredsustainable.NordstromInc.doesnot communicatewhetheritisamemberofanycol- laborativeinitiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 NordstromInc.doesnotprovideconcrete reportingonitssustainablecottonpolicytoad- dressissuessuchashazardouspesticides,water use,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations. Actual uptake: 0 NordstromInc.doesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 NordstromInc.isnottransparentwithrespectto itssupplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. PVH IncludesCalvinKlein,TommyHilfiger,Speedo Overall: 1.75 PVHscores1.75outof19.5points,makingitone oftheweakerperformingcompanies.PVH’s reportingonpolicymeasuresformoresustain- ablecottonismainlylimitedtotheoperations ofitsbrandTommyHilfiger.OnlyforTommy HilfigerdoesPVHreportatargettosource 100percentmoresustainablecottonby2020. PVHdoesnotcommunicatetheshareofmore sustainablecottonusedforitsentirerangeof textileproducts. Policy: 1.75 OnlyTommyHilfigerreportsatargettouseonly sustainablecottonby2020.PVHhaspoliciesthat addressissuesconcerninghazardouspesticides, wateruse,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingandla- bourrightsviolations.Itsreportingindicatesthat theTommyHilfigerbrandimplementsmeasures relatedtopesticides,wateruse,biodiversity andlabourrightsviatheBCI.Incontrast,PVH doesnotclearlyspecifywhatpolicymeasuresit implementstocovertherestofitscottonsupply chain.PVHreportsmeasuresconcerningcotton recyclingforTommyHilfigeronly. Actual uptake: 0 PVHdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitscottonis consideredmoresustainable.PVHonlyreports thatTommyHilfigersourcedaround514,000kg ofBetterCottonin2014. Traceability: 0 PVHisnottransparentwithrespecttoitssupply chainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. RALPH LAUREN CORPORATION Overall: 0 RalphLaurenCorporationscores0outof19.5 points,makingitoneoftheworstperforming companies.Itdoesnotcommunicateanytarget toachieveamoresustainablecottonsupply, anddoesnotreportwhatshareofitscurrent cottonsupplyisconsideredmoresustainable. RalphLaurenCorporationdoesnotcommuni- catewhetheritisamemberofanycollaborative initiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 RalphLaurenCorporationdoesnotprovide concretereportingonitssustainablecotton policytoaddressissuessuchashazardouspes- ticides,wateruse,biodiversity,cottonrecycling orlabourrightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 RalphLaurenCorporationdoesnotspecify whatshareofitscottonisconsideredmore sustainable. Traceability: 0 RalphLaurenCorporationisnottransparent withrespecttoitssupplychainingeneralorfor cottonspecifically. SCOREDZERO SCOREDZERO
32 RICHEMONT IncludesChloë,PeterMillar Overall: 0 Richemont scores0outof19.5points,makingit oneoftheworst-performingcompanies.Itdoes notcommunicateanytargettoachieveamore sustainablecottonsupply,orwhatshareofits cottonsupplyiscurrentlyconsideredmore sustainable.Richemont doesnotcommunicate whetheritisamemberofanycollaborative initiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 Richemont doesnotprovideconcretereport- ingonitssustainablecottonpolicytoaddress issuessuchashazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations. Actual uptake: 0 Richemont doesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 Richemont isnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. PHOTOH.P.ALTINGVONGEUSAU SCOREDZERO
33 ROSS STORES Overall: 0 RossStoresscores0outof19.5points,making itoneoftheworstperformingcompanies.It doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachievea moresustainablecottonsupply,orwhatshare ofitscurrentcottonsupplyisconsideredmore sustainable.RossStoresdoesnotcommunicate whetheritisamemberofanycollaborative initiativeonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0 RossStoresdoesnotprovideconcretereport- ingonitssustainablecottonpolicytoaddress issuessuchashazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations. Actual uptake: 0 RossStoresdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 RossStoresisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. TARGET CORP. Overall: 0.75 TargetCorp.scores0.75outof19.5points,making itoneoftheweakestperformingcompanies.It doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachievea moresustainablecottonsupply,orwhatshare ofitscurrentcottonsupplyisconsideredmore sustainable.TargetCorp.doesnotcommunicate whetheritisamemberofanycollaborativeinitia- tiveonmoresustainablecotton. Policy: 0.25 TargetCorp.haspublishedverylittleinformation onanexistingsustainablecottonpolicytoad- dressissuessuchashazardouspesticides,water use,biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations.Itonlyspecifiesthatithasconducteda life-cycleassessmentofaT-shirt–startingfrom growingcottontoend-of-lifedisposal.Target Corp.hasreportednocleartargettousemore sustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 TargetCorp.doesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonprocessedisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0.5 TargetCorp.publishesalistofallfactories producingitsownbrandproducts.However,itis unclearwhatpercentageofproductionvolume thesefactoriesrepresent.TargetCorp.doesnot provideanyotherinformationonfabricoryarn manufacturers,anddoesnotspecificallymention theuseofatraceabilitytooltotrackitsnon-certi- fiedcotton.Thecompanydoesnotspecifywhich countriesitsourcesfromoritsabsolutevolume ofcotton. TJX IncludesT.J.Maxx,T.K.Maxx,Marshalls Overall: 0 TJXscores0outof19.5points,makingitoneof theworstperformingcompanies.Itdoesnot communicateanytargettoachieveamoresus- tainablecottonsupply,orwhatshareofitscotton supplyiscurrentlyconsideredsustainable.TJX doesnotcommunicatewhetheritisamemberof anycollaborativeinitiativeonmoresustainable cotton. Policy: 0 TJXdoesnotprovideconcretereportingonits sustainablecottonpolicytoaddressissuessuch ashazardouspesticides,wateruse,biodiversity issues,cottonorlabourrightsviolations. Actual uptake: 0 TJXdoesnotspecifywhatshareofitscottonis consideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 TJXisnottransparentwithrespecttoitssupply chainingeneralorforcottonspecifically. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY SCOREDZEROSCOREDZERO
34 VF CORPORATION IncludesTheNorthFace,Lee,Wrangler, Napapijri,Timberland,Jansport,Eastpak,Vans Overall: 3.25 VFCorporationscored3.25pointsoutof19.5, makingitoneoftheweakerperformingcom- panies.VFCorporationdoesnotcommunicate anytargettoachieveamoresustainablecotton supply,orwhatshareofitscottonsupplyis currentlyconsideredmoresustainable. Policy: 2.25 VFCorporation’spoliciesaddressissues concerninghazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingandlabour rightsviolations.VFCorporationimplements measuresviacollaborativeinitiatives,suchas theBCI.However,itdoesnotclearlyspecifyto whatextentitimplementscottonrelatedpolicy measuresoutsideoftheseinitiativestocover VFCorporation’sentirecottonsupplychain. VFCorporationdoesnotcommunicateatarget tousemoresustainablecotton.However,it reportsthatitrecyclesdenimwaste. Actual uptake: 1.0 For2013VFCorporationreportedthatit reacheditsgoalofusing1percentcotton frommoresustainablesourcesinitsclothes, orapproximately1,800metrictonnes.How­ ever,morerecentfiguresontheshareofmore sustainablecottonprocessedhavenotbeen reported. Traceability: 0 VFCorporationreportsthatitannuallysources about200,000metrictonnesofcotton,but doesnotspecifywhichcountriesitsourcesits cottonfrom.Thesameissueappliestotrace- abilityregardingitssupplychainrelationsfor finishedproductsorfabricandyarnmanufac- turing.VFCorporationreportspolicymeasures toimprovetraceabilityofrawmaterialssuchas downandwool,butdoesnotreportonnon- certifiedcotton. WALMART Overall: 1.0 Walmartscores1.0outof19.5points,making itoneoftheweakerperformingcompanies.It doesnotcommunicateanytargettoachievea moresustainablecottonsupply,anddoesnot reporttheshareofitscurrentcottonsupply thatisconsideredmoresustainable.Walmart doesnotcommunicatewhetheritisamember ofanycollaborativeinitiativeonmoresustaina- blecotton. Policy: 1.0 In2010,Walmartannounceditsambitionto bethelargestpurchaseroforganiccotton. However,ithasnotpublishedanypolicieson howitwillreachthisgoalorastatusupdate. Walmartdoesnotprovideanyinformation onpoliciesregardingtheuseofhazardous pesticides,biodiversityorlabourrightsforits entirecottonsupplychain.However,Walmart doesimplementseveralmeasuresforutilizing post-consumertextilewaste.Sofar,Walmart hasdevelopedmethodsforpost-consumer textilestobeturnedintosuchitemsasbowties, pursesandpolyesterhangtags.Walmartdoes notcommunicateacleartargettousemore sustainablecottoninthefuture. Actual uptake: 0 Walmartdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0 Walmartisnottransparentwithrespecttoits supplychainingeneralorforcottonsupply specifically. WESFARMERS IncludesColes,Kmart(Australia),Target (Australia) Overall: 0.5 Wesfarmersscores0.5outof19.5points,mak- ingitoneoftheweakestperformingcompanies. Wesfarmersdoesnotcommunicateanytarget toachievea100percentmoresustainablecot- tonsupply,orwhatshareofitscurrentcotton supplyisconsideredmoresustainable.Itdoes notcommunicatewhetheritisamemberof anycollaborativeinitiativeonmoresustainable cotton. Policy: 0 Wesfarmersdoesnotprovideconcretereport- ingonitssustainablecottonpolicytoaddress issuessuchashazardouspesticides,wateruse, biodiversity,cottonrecyclingorlabourrights violations. Actual uptake: 0 Wesfarmersdoesnotspecifywhatshareofits cottonisconsideredmoresustainable. Traceability: 0.5 SomeofWesfarmers’companies(Kmart,Target andColes)provideinsightsconcerningtheir supplierrelationsduringthefinalproduction stage.However,Wesfarmersdoesnotpublish informationregardingfabricandyarnmanu- facturers.Itdoesnotspecifywhichcountriesit sourcesitscottonfromoritsabsolutevolume ofcotton.Wesfarmersdoesnotspecifically mentiontheuseofatraceabilitytooltotrackits useofnon-certifiedcotton. DETAILED RESULTS BY COMPANY
35 PHOTOJAYARAJ
Cotton Ranking Report - June 2016_0

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