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The Magic of Offal in Chef mag
- 2. MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTSA LIST OF THE UK AND IRELAND’S MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS. THREESTAR★★★ LONDON Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Mayfair, London Jocelyn Herland 020 7629 8866 www.alainducasse-dorchester.com Gordon Ramsay Chelsea, London Clare Smyth 020 7352 4441 www.gordonramsay.com/ royalhospitalroad ENGLAND Fat Duck Bray-on-Thames, Berkshire Heston Blumenthal 01628 580333 www.thefatduck.co.uk The Waterside Inn Bray-on-Thames, Berkshire Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn 01628 620691 www.waterside-inn.co.uk TWOSTAR★★ LONDON Darroze at The Connaught Mayfair, London Hélène Darroze 020 7107 8880 www.the-connaught.co.uk/ mayfair-restaurants-bars Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Knightsbridge, London Ashley Palmer-Watts 020 7201 3833 www.dinnerbyheston.com Greenhouse Mayfair, London Arnaud Bignon 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk Hibiscus Mayfair, London Claude Bosi 020 7629 2999 www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk Le Gavroche Mayfair, London Michel Roux Jr 020 7408 0881 www.le-gavroche.co.uk Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley Belgravia, London Marcus Wareing 020 7235 1200 www.marcus-wareing.com Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library) Mayfair, London Pierre Gagnaire 020 7659 4500 www.sketch.uk.com The Greenhouse Mayfair, London Arnaud Bignon 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.com The Ledbury Notting Hill, London Brett Graham 020 7791 9191 www.theledbury.com The Square Mayfair, London Phil Howard 020 7495 7100 www.squarerestaurant.com ENGLAND Midsummer House Cambridge, Cambridgeshire Daniel Clifford 01223 369299 www.midsummerhouse.co.uk Gidleigh Park Chagford, Devon Michael Caines 01647 432367 www.gidleigh.com Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham, Gloucestershire David Everitt-Matthias 01242 573449 www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Whatley Manor Malmesbury, Wiltshire Martin Burge 01666 822888 www.whatleymanor.com Le Manoir aux Quat’Sainsons Great Milton, Oxfordshire Gary Jones 01844 278881 www.manoir.com Restaurant Nathan Outlaw Rock, Cornwall Nathan Outlaw 01208 862737 www.nathan-outlaw.com/nathan- outlaw-restaurant Restaurant Sat Bains Nottingham, Nottinghamshire Sat Bains 0115 986 6566 www.restaurantsatbains.com The Hand and Flowers Marlow, Buckinghamshire Tom Kerridge 01628 482 277 www.thehandandflowers.co.uk L’enclume Cartmel, Cumbria Simon Rogan 015395 36362 www.lenclume.co.ukMichael Wignall at The Latymer Bagshot, Surrey Michael Wignall 01276 486150 www.pennyhillpark.co.uk/ EXCLUSIVE_HOTELS/eating_and_ drinking/the_latymer.aspx SCOTLAND Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Auchterarder, Perth & Kinross Andrew Fairlie 01764 694267 www.gleneagles.com EIRE Patrick Guilbaud Dublin Guillaume Lebrun 01 6764192 www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie ONESTAR★ LONDON Alyn Williams at The Westbury Mayfair, London Alyn Williams 020 7078 9579 www.alynwilliams.co.uk Amaya Belgravia, London Karunesh Khanna 020 7724 2525 www.amaya.biz Ametsa with Arzak Instruction at Halkin Hotel Chelsea, London Elena Arzak 020 7333 1000 www.comohotels.com Angler at South Place Hotel Finsbury, London Tony Fleming 020 3215 126 www.southplacehotel.com Arbutus Soho, London Anthony Demetre 020 7734 4545 www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk Barrafina Soho, London Nieves Barragán Mohacho 020 7813 8016 www.barafina.co.uk Benares Mayfair, London Atul Kochhar 020 7629 8886 www.benaresrestaurant.com Brasserie Chavot Mayfair, London Eric Chavot 020 7183 6425 www.brasseriechavot.com Chez Bruce Wandsworth, London Bruce Poole 020 8672 0114 www.chezbruce.co.uk City Social City of London, London Jason Atherton 020 7877 7703 www.citysociallondon.com Club Gascon City of London Pascal Aussignac 020 7796 0600 www.clubgascon.com Dabbous Fitzrovia, London Ollie Dabbous 020 7323 1544 www.dabbous.co.uk Fera at Claridge’s Mayfair, London Simon Rogan 020 7107 8888 www.feraatclaridges.co.uk Galvin at Windows Mayfair, London André Garrett 020 7208 4021 www.galvinatwindows.com Galvin La Chapelle City of London Jeff Galvin 020 7299 0400 www.galvinrestaurants.com Gymkhana Mayfair, London Karam Sethi 020 3011 5900 www.hakkasan.com Hakkasan Bloomsbury, London Tong Chee Hwee 020 7927 7000 www.hakkasan.com Hakkasan Hanway Place Mayfair, London Tong Chee Hwee 020 7927 7000 www.hakkasan.com Hedone Chiswick, London Mikael Jonsson 020 8747 0377 www.hedonerestaurant.com HKK Shoreditch, London Tong Chee Hwee 020 3535 1888 www.hkklondon.com Kai Mayfair, London Alex Chow 020 7493 8988 www.kaimayfair.co.uk Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs Bloomsbury, London James Knappett 020 7637 7770 www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk Kitchen W8 Chelsea, London Mark Kempson 020 7937 0120 www.kitchenw8.com L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Covent Garden,London Oliver Limousin 020 7010 8600 www.joelrobuchon. co.uk/L’Atelier L’autre Pied Mayfair, London Andy McFadden 020 7486 9696 www.lautrepied.co.uk La Trompete Chiswick, London Anthony Boyd 020 8747 1836 www.latrompette.co.uk Launceston Place Kensington, London Timothy Allen 020 7937 6912 www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk Lima Regent’s Park & Marylebone, London Robert Ortiz 0203 002 2640 www.limalondon.com Locanda Locatelli Marylebone, London Giorgio Locatelli 020 7935 9088 www.locandalocatelli.com Maze Mayfair, London Tristin Farmer 020 7107 0000 www.gordonramsay.com/maze Murano Mayfair, London Angela Hartnett 020 7495 1127 www.muranolondon.com Outlaw’s at the Capital Chelsea, London Nathan Outlaw 020 7591 1202 www.capitalhotel.co.uk Petrus Belgravia, London Sean Burbidge 020 7592 1609 www.gordonramsay.com/petrus Pied a Terre Fitzrovia, London Marcus Eaves 020 7636 1178 www.pied-a-terre.co.uk Pollen Street Social Mayfair, London Jason Atherton 020 7290 7600 www.pollenstreetsocial.com Quilon Victoria, London Sriram Aylur 020 7821 1899 www.quilon.co.uk Rasoi Chelsea, London Vineet Bhatia 020 7225 1881 www.rasoirestaurant.co.uk Seven Place Park at St James’ Hotel and Club St James, London William Drabble 020 7316 1600 www.stjameshotelandclub.com Social Eating House Soho, London Jason Atherton 020 7993 3251 www.socialeatinghouse.com St John Clerkenwell, London Chris Gillard 020 3301 8069 www.stjohnrestaurant.com St John Hotel Soho, London Tom Harris 020 3301 8020 www.stjohnrestaurant.com Story Bermondsey, London Tom Sellers 020 7183 2117 www.restaurantstory.co.uk Tamarind Mayfair, London Alfred Prasad 020 7629 3561 www.tamarindrestaurant.com Texture Marylebone, London Agnar Sverrisson 020 7224 0028 www.texture-restaurant.co.uk The Clove Club Shoreditch, London Isaac McHale 020 7729 6496 www.thecloveclub.com The Harwood Arms Fulham, London Barry Fitzgerald 020 7386 1847 www.harwoodarms.com The River Café Hammersmith, London Rose Gray 020 7386 4200 www.rivercafe.co.uk Tom Aikens Restaurant Chelsea, London Tom Aikens 020 7584 2003 www.tomaikens.co.uk Trishna Marylebone, London Karam Sethi 020 7935 5624 www.trishnalondon.com Umu Mayfair, London Yoshinori Ishii 020 7499 8881 www.umurestaurant.com W1 Restaurant Marylebone, London Paul Welburn 020 7616 5930 www.guoman.com Wild Honey Mayfair, London Anthony Demetre 020 7758 9160 www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk Yauatcha Soho, London Cheong Wah Soon 020 7494 8888 www.yauatcha.com ENGLAND 5 North Street Winchcombe, Gloucestershire Marcus Ashenford 01242 604566 www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk Adam’s Birmingham Adam Stokes 0121 643 3745 www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk Adam Simmonds at Danesfield House Marlow, Buckinghamshire Adam Simmonds 01628 891881 www.danesfieldhouse.co.uk Alimentum Cambridge, Cambridgeshire Mark Poynton 01223 413000 www.restaurantalimentum.co.uk Apicius Cranbrook, Kent Tim Johnson 01580 7146666 www.restaurant-apicius.co.uk Bath Priory Bath, Somerset Sam Moody 01225 331922 www.thebathpriory.co.uk Box Tree Ilkley, West Yorkshire Simon Gueller 01943 608484 www.theboxtree.co.uk Butchers Arms Eldersfield, Gloucestershire James Winter 01452 840381 www.thebutchersarms.net Bybrook Manor House Hotel & Golf Club, Castle Coombe, Wiltshire Richard Davies 01249 782206 www.manorhouse.co.uk Casamia Westbury-on-Trym, Somerset Jonray & Peter Sanchez 0117 9592884 www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk Chapter One Farnborough Common, Kent Andrew Mcleish 01689 854848 www.chaptersrestaurants.com Curlew Bodiam, East Sussex Andrew Scott 01580 861394 www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk Drakes Ripley, Surrey Steve Drake 01483 224777 www.drakesrestaurant.co.uk Driftwood Portscatho, Cornwall Chris Eden 01872 580644 www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Baslow, Derbyshire Rupert Rowley 01246 583259 www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk Fraiche Prenton, Merseyside Mark Wilkinson 0151 6522914 www.restaurantfraiche.com Hambleton Hall Oakham, Rutland Aaron Patterson 01572 756991 www.hambletonhall.com Hinds Head Bray, Berkshire Kevin Love 01628 626151 www.hindsheadbray.com Holbeck Ghyll Windermere, West Yorkshire David McLaughlin 01539 432375 www.holbeckghyll.com JSW Petersfield, Hampshire Jake Saul Watkins 01730 262030 www.jswrestaurant.com L’Ortolan Shinfield, Berkshire Nick Chappell 0118 9888500 www.lortolan.com Lords of the Manor Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire 01451 820243 www.lordsofthemanor.com Manor House Hotel & Golf Club Castle Coombe, Wiltshire Richard Davies 01249 782206 www.manorhouse.co.uk Morston Hall Morston, Norfolk Galton Blackiston 01263 741041 www.morstonhall.com Mr Underhill’s at Dinham Weir Dinham, Shropshire Chris Bradley 01584 874431 www.mr-underhills.co.uk Northcote Blackburn, Lancashire Nigel Haworth 01254 240555 www.northcote.com Ockenden Manor Haywards Heath, Sussex Stephen Crane 01444 416111 www.hshotels.co.uk/ockenden- manor-hotel-and-spa/dining Old Vicarage Ridgeway Village, South Yorkshire Tessa Bramley 0114 2475814 www.theoldvicarage.co.uk Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen Port Isaac, Cornwall Nathan Outlaw 01208 881183 www.outlaws.co.uk Paris House Woburn, Bedfordshire Phil Fanning 01525 290692 www.parishouse.co.uk Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Padstow, Cornwall Paul Ainsworth 01841 532093 www.number6inpadstow.co.uk Pony & Trap Chew Magna, Somerset Josh Eggleton 01275 332627 www.theponyandtrap.co.uk Purnell’s Birmingham, West Midlands Glynn Purnell 0121 212 9799 www.purnellsrestaurant.com Raby Hunt Summerhouse, County Durham James Close 01325 374237 www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk Red Lion Freehouse East Chisenbury, Wiltshire Guy Manning 01980 671124 www.redlionfreehouse.com Restaurant Tristan Horsham, West Sussex Tristan Mason 01403 255 688 www.restauranttristan.co.uk Room in the Elephant Torquay, Devon Simon Hulstone 01803 200044 www.elephantrestaurant.co.uk Sienna Dorchester, Dorset Russell Brown 01305 250022 www.siennarestaurant.co.uk Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor Chester, Cheshire Simon Radley 01244 324024 www.chestergrosvenor.com/simon- radley-restaurant Simpsons Edgbaston, West Midlands Luke Tipping 0121 4543434 www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk Sir Charles Napier Chinnor, Oxfordshire Chris Godfrey 01494 483011 www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk Thackeray’s Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent Richard Phillips 01892 511921 www.thackerays-restaurant.co.uk The Black Rat Winchester, Hampshire Jamie Stapleton-Burns 01962 844465 www.theblackrat.co.uk The Black Swan Oldstead, North Yorkshire Adam Jackson 01347 868387 www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk The Cross at Kenilworth Kenilworth Adam Bennett 01926 853840 www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk The Glasshouse Richmond-upon-Thames, Surrey Daniel Mertl 020 8940 6777 www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk The Harrow at Little Bedwyn Marlborough, Wiltshire Roger Jones 01672 870871 www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com The Mason Arms South Molton, Devon Mark Dodson 01398 341231 www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk The Neptune Hunstanton, Norfolk Kevin Mangeolles 0844 2880673 www.theneptune.co.uk The Nut Tree Murcott, Oxfordshire Mike North 01865 331253 www.nuttreeinn.co.uk The Park (at Lucknam Park Hotel) Chippenham, Wiltshire Hywel Jones 01225 742777 www.lucknampark.co.uk The Pass Lower Beeding, Sussex Matt Gillan 01403 891711 www.southlodgehotel.co.uk/ EXCLUSIVE.../the_pass The Pipe & Glass Inn Beverley, East Yorkshire James Mackenzie 01430 810 246 www.pipeandglass.co.uk The Royal Oak Littlefield Green, Berkshire Dom Chapman 01628 620 541 www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com The Samling Ambleside, Cumbria Ian Swainson 015394 31922 www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk The Sportsman Seasalter, Kent Stephen Harris 01227 273370 www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk The Stagg Inn Kington, Herefordshire Steve Reynolds 01544 230221 www.thestagg.co.uk The Star Inn Harome, North Yorkshire Andrew Pern 01439 770397 www.thestaratharome.co.uk The Terrace (at the Montagu Arms) Beaulieu, Hampshire Matthew Tomkinson 01590 612324 www.montaguarmshotel.co.uk/ terrace_restaurant The Treby Arms Plympton, Devon Anton Piotrowski 01752 837363 www.thetrebyarms.co.uk The West House Biddenden, Kent Graham Garrett 01580 291341 www.thewesthouserestaurant.co.uk The Yorke Arms Harrogate, North Yorkshire Frances Atkins 01423 755243 www.yorke-arms.co.uk Turners Birmingham, West Midlands Richard Turner 0121 4264440 www.turnersrestaurantbirmingham. co.uk Wilks Redland, Bristol James Wilkins 0117 9737 999 www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk JERSEY Ocean House at Atlantic Isle of Jersey Mark Jordan 01534 744101 www.theatlantichotel.com Bohemia (at The Club Hotel & Spa) Isle of Jersey Steve Smith 01534 876500 www.bohemiajersey.com Ormer by Shaun Rankin Isle of Jersey 01534 725100 www.ormerjersey.com Tassili at the Grand Hotel Isle of Jersey Richard Allen 01534 722301 www.grandjersey.com/grand-jersey/ tassili SCOTLAND 21212 Edinburgh Paul Kitching 0131 523 1030 www.21212restaurant.co.uk Boath House Auldearn, Nairn Charlie Lockley 01667 454896 www.boath-house.com Braidwoods Dalry, Ayrshire Nicola Braidwood 01294 833 544 www.braidwoods.co.uk Castle Terrace Edinburgh Dominic Jack 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com Glenapp Castle Ballantrae, Ayrshire Adam Stokes 0146583 1212 www.glenappcastle.com Isle of Eriska Argyll, Scotland Ross Stovold 01631 720371 www.eriska-hotel.co.uk Inverlochy Castle Torlundy, Fort William Philip Carnegie 01397 702177 www.inverlochycastlehotel.com Kinlock Lodge Isle of Skye Marcello Tully 01471 833333 www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk Knockinaam Lodge Portpatrick, Stranraer Tony Pierce 01776 810471 www.knockinaamlodge.com Martin Wishart Edinburgh Martin Wishart 0131 553 3557 www.martin-wishart.co.uk/restaurant- martin-wishart/home Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond Loch Lomond, Dunbartonshire Graeme Cheevers 01389 722 504 www.martin-wishart.co.uk Number One (at The Balmoral Hotel) Edinburgh Jeff Bland 0131 556 2414 www.thebalmoralhotel.com/dining Sangster’s Elie, Fife Bruce Sangster 01333 331001 www.sangsters.co.uk The Albannach Lochinver, Lairg Colin Craig & Lesley Crosfield 01571 844 407 www.thealbannach.co.uk The Kitchin Edinburgh Tom Kitchin 0131 555 1755 www.thekitchin.com The Peat Inn St Andrews, Fife Geoffrey Smeddle 01334 840206 www.thepeatinn.co.uk The Three Chimneys Colbost, Isle of Skye Michael Smith 01470 511258 www.threechimneys.co.uk WALES Crown at Whitebrook Whitebrook, Monmouth Chris Harrod 01600 860254 www.crownatwhitebrook.co.uk The Checkers Montgomery, Powys Stéphane Borie 01686 669 822 www.thecheckersmontgomery.co.uk The Walnut Tree Abergavenny, Monmouthshire Shaun Hill 01873 852797 www.thewalnuttreeinn.com Tyddyn Llan Corwen, Clwyd Bryan Webb 01490 440 264 www.tyddynllan.co.uk Ynyshir Hall Machynlleth, Powys Gareth Ward 01654 781209 www.ynyshirhall.co.uk EIRE Aniar Galway Enda McEvoy 09 1535947 www.aniarrestaurant.ie Bon Appetit Malahide, Dublin Oliver Dunne 01 8450314 www.bonappetit.ie Campagne Kilkenny Garrett Byrne 056 777 2858 www.campagne.ie Chapter One Dublin Ross Lewis 01 8732266 www.chapteronerestaurant.com House (at Cliff House Hotel) Ardmore, Waterford Martijn Kajuiter 02 487800 www.thecliffhousehotel.com L’Ecrivain Dublin Derry Clarke 01 6611919 www.lecrivain.com Lady Helen at Mount Juliet Hotel Thomastown, Kilkenny Cormac Rowe 056 777 3000 www.mountjuliet.ie Thornton’s (at The Fitzwilliam Hotel) Dublin Kevin Thornton 01 4787008 www.fitzwilliamhotel.com
- 3. WANTTOHAVEYOUR OWNCOPYOFTHE MAGAZINEALL THETOPCHEFSARE READING? IN NEED OF HELPFUL HINTS FROM THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS? EAGER TO FIND OUT THE LATEST ON FOOD TRENDS? HUNGRY FOR THE INSIDE GOSSIP ON THE HOTTEST INGREDIENTS? FASCINATED BY THE SKILLS OF TODAY’S TOP CHEFS? UK £25.00 including postage EU £41.00 including postage REST OF WORLD £55.00 including postage Moderated by an editorial board consisting of a team of well-known and respected chefs, Chef Magazine provides original, accurate and up to date information that is guaranteed to be informative and authoritative. With in-depth interviews with some of the most highly regarded chefs in the industry, discussions on industry topics, reviews of kitchen equipment and a lot more, Chef Magazine is an essential tool in any professional kitchen. The first choice for professional chefs M A G A Z I N E CHEF CLUB PR I V I L E G E RETURN TO: CHEF MAGAZINE LTD, NETWORK HOUSE, 28 BALLMOOR, CELTIC COURT, BUCKINGHAM, MK18 1RQ TEL: 01280 829300 FAX: 01280 829326 EMAIL: INFO@CHEFMAGAZINE.CO.UK OR ALTERNATIVELY SUBSCRIBE ON OUR WEBSITE AT: WWW.CHEFMAGAZINE.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE A YEAR’S SUBSCRIPTION FOR ONLY £25 SUBSCRIBE NOW TO CHEF MAGAZINE AND AUTOMATICALLY BECOME A MEMBER OF THE CHEF PRIVILEGE CLUB visit www.chefmagazine.co.uk NOW AVAILABLE AS AN APP available at itunes WORLD team GUEST chefs JONATHAN CARTWRIGHT AMERICA Relais Châteaux Grand Chef, Jonathan, is a native of northern England and began cooking when he was 15 years old. Since then, his mastery of the culinary arts has taken him to some of the world’s finest Relais Châteaux properties including Blantyre in Lenox, Massachusetts, the Horned Dorset Primavera in Rincon, Puerto Rico and the Hotel Bareiss in the Black Forest region of Germany. KIRSTEN TIBBALLS AUSTRALASIA One of Australia’s most respected and talented chocolate and pastry chefs and founder of the Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School. Kirsten won the 2004 World Pastry Championships for her hand made chocolates and was also awarded a gold medal for her chocolates in the Pastry Olympics in Germany that same year. In Australia, Kirsten has also won numerous awards and competitions and regularly travels the world to participate as a judge in chocolate and patisserie events, teach others her skills and gather new ideas and techniques to bring back to use at her school in Melbourne. offering their own experience and expert opinions GARY RHODES OBE EUROPE UAE His legendary dedication to the craft and relentless pursuit of perfection has placed him firmly at the forefront of today’s culinary world. Chef, restaurateur, celebrity and author; his distinguished career, tireless attention to detail and unique mastery of the ‘Great British Classics’ truly sets him apart. A history of stunning restaurants has won him a constellation of Michelin stars, including Rhodes 24 and Rhodes W1, and he is consistently revered by his peers as truly ‘The Chef’s Chef’. GALTON BLACKISTON Galton went on to work with John Tovey at Miller Howe in the Lake District where he essentially did his training. He stayed for 10 years, becoming Head Chef, but also worked for a time at Le Pierre in New York and The Mount Nelson in Cape Town. He bought Morston Hall in 1992 where he has a Michelin star in 1999 and has 3 rosettes. He is also a fellow of the Craft Guild of Chefs. Galton has also recently invested in Number 1 at Cromer, a fish and chip restaurant and takeaway. SAM MOODY Sam Moody is the Head Chef of the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Bath. A protégé of Michael Caines MBE, Sam has worked exclusively for the Andrew Brownsword Hotels ‘Gidleigh Collection’ since June 2005. Sam joined as a commis chef at the Gidleigh Park Hotel and progressed to become chef tournand. He has worked at The Bath Priory since March 2009, starting as sous chef and then head chef six months later. In September 2012 The Bath Priory restaurant was awarded a Michelin star and Sam was promoted to his present role. ANDREAS ANTONA Andreas Antona spent his early years in the professional kitchens of Germany and Switzerland and moved to London to work at the Dorchester and The Ritz. He began winning international acclaim at the Plough and Harrow in Birmingham and then went on to set up his first restaurant Simpsons, which was soon awarded a Michelin star. A generous and inspirational mentor, Andreas has trained up many of the region’s best chefs. PETER MARSHALL / PUBLISHER Peter Marshall has built a reputation for top-quality magazine and cookbook publishing in the most demanding sectors, including in-house publications for some of Europe’s greatest hotels and restaurants. Chef Magazine draws upon the strengths of that experience, backed by internationally respected chefs and created by a team of experts in their field. SHIRLEY MARSHALL / MANAGING EDITOR Shirley has over 20 years experience in an editorial capacity, working with magazine titles in the food, lifestyle and jewellery fields and has also edited a number of professional cookbooks. She has been with Chef Magazine since its launch and has helped it to become a leading title in the industry. GARY HUNTER Gary Hunter is the Head of Faculty for Hospitality and Culinary Arts at Westminster Kingsway College in London and is also an international judge in chocolate and patisserie. He has written seven cookery books, most recently ‘In a Class of its Own’, and has been honoured by many professional bodies including The Association Culinaire Française, City Guilds and Craft Guild of Chefs . He was also awarded Best Education Chef in 2012 and is an active member of Royal Academy of Culinary Arts. ANNA HANSEN Born in Canada and raised in New Zealand, Anna trained under Fergus Henderson. In 2001, Anna teamed up with Peter Gordon to open award- winning Marylebone restaurant, The Providores. Anna also acted as consultant chef to Michelin starred New York restaurant PUBLIC. The Modern Pantry opened in 2008, a sanctuary of bold flavours from around the world. Her first cookbook followed and she was awarded an MBE in the Queen’s New Year Honour List 2012. 4 | CHEF BOARD
- 4. 6 | INSIDE THIS ISSUE TRENDS: SOUTH KOREA What makes the Koreans excited – what they queuing for and what is ticking their boxes at present. DIEGO MASCIAGA Master of his art MY TOP SIX Gilles Bragard shares his favourite restaurants WINES: OF THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH A selection from Argentina, Chile and South Africa. INGREDIENT: MAIN Gloucester Old Spot Pig THE MAGIC OF OFFAL Intestines. Eyeballs. Thymus glands. The stuff of culinary nightmares. Or criminally overlooked kitchen treasure. INGREDIENT: UNUSUAL Cocoa Bean COOKING THE BOOKS A look at some of the new releases 7 363426 30 44 50 5246 53 58 CHEF TRAINING: CHEF EDUCATION MATTERS ‘We need to fully comprehend the data, research, history and future industry needs before we can shape the resolution for this challenge.’ Gary Hunter WELCOME Firstly, can I say a big thank you, to the editorial board. They have helped to ensure that the content of Chef Magazine is up to date, knowledgeable, and helpful to all those who read it – consolidating its growing reputation as the best magazine for the working Chef. Firstly, can I say a big thank you, to the editorial board. They have helped to ensure that the content of Chef Magazine is up to date, knowledgeable, and helpful to all those who read it – consolidating its growing reputation as the best magazine for the working Chef. We have had a productive year – the magazine has increased its circulation substantially and is now also available as an app, which is proving very popular – especially to our worldwide readers. In this ever changing world, and to make sure that we remain the best magazine, reflecting the artistic and visual importance of the presentation of food, we will, from January, have a new and very diverse editorial board and, to support this, we will be introducing a new design and feel to the magazine. We will also be publishing a recipe book, featuring many the chefs who have appeared in the last 38 issues of Chef Magazine – this is going to be the book of the year! I am amazed, when I look back, at who we have managed to work with, since the magazine was launched over 6 years ago. Please enjoy this issue – we have added few more ingredients, looked at training issues and the senses, and interviewed two great chefs: Massimiliano Alajmo, from the Veneto region of Italy. And Russell Bateman, recent NCOTY winner – congratulations Russell! Peter Marshall Publisher issue 38 www.chefedia.co.uk CHEF MAGAZINE Network House, 28 Ballmoor, Celtic Court, Buckingham MK18 1RQ Tel: 01280 829300 Fax: 01280 829326 For general enquiries regarding Chef Magazine email: peter@chefmedia.co.uk PUBLISHER Peter Marshall PA Olivia White MANAGING EDITOR Shirley Marshall ART EDITOR / DESIGNER Philip Donnelly Photography Peter Marshall Front cover photography Sophie Delaw 181508 22 24 INGREDIENT: SEASONAL Alba White Truffles CHEF TALK: ‘ESSENZE’ OF MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO Alajmo’s sophisticated dishes remain firmly rooted in tradition using predominantly Italian ingredients with an inherent appreciation of his heartfelt culinary heritage. THE SENSORY MATRIX: ‘You need to be aware of, and respond to, the fact that every one of the people eating the food you make will have their own primary sense.’ NICO LADENIS OBSERVES: STEVE DRAKE “It was a beautiful day in September and our destination was Drakes in Ripley, a Surrey village since Norman times.” CHEF TALK: RUSSELL BATEMAN ‘...really what this job is about is taking a prime ingredient and making the best of it but keeping it simple.’ HEALTH SAFETY: NEW FOODS ‘The fact that a food has been consumed for many years in another country should not be assumed to mean it is safe’.
- 5. 8 rom Venice to Verona, the region spans a range of cooking styles. Venice of course caters most popularly to the tourists. This “Queen of the Waters” floats tantalisingly on the shores of the Adriatic. So revered as a worldwide treasure that the lagoon, city and all 117 islands it is built on are strictly protected as a World Heritage Site. Set on the marshy lagoon, the cuisine of the coastal Laguna Veneta draws on local fresh fish (Carpione, or freshwater salmon trout is most common) and shellfish. Venice is famous for its cicchetti (small tapas dishes) served in the many bacari bars that lie nestled along the city’s winding alleyways. These all-day snacks are often accompanied with ombra, a rounded glass of local wine, that takes its name from the refreshment enjoyed as locals sought the ‘shade’ from the heat of the city streets. Typical cicchetti includes baccalà alla vicentina, a tangy spread made with an air-dried stockfish slow cooked with anchovy, onion, garlic and loosened with milk. Another example is sardele in saora (the practice of marinating fried fish in vinegar) a sweet-salty combination of fried sardines with onions, pine nuts, plump raisins and sometimes with the addition of zesty lemon peel or even candied citrus. Inland, in contrast, dishes incorporate the prime beef of the region in dishes such as the popular boiled meat staple bollito misto or the now omnipresent dish of carpaccio that originated in Veneto: paper thin slivers of beef traditionally served with a mustard based mayonnaise. Local pork is used in a cured salami known as soppressa and cotechino, sausages made with ground pork rind, fat and scraps of meat and pigeon and game-birds often stewed or used in casseroles. The region enjoys abundant grains and their use in traditional cuisine is rife, with staple ingredients that include polenta and hearty bigoli, a long tubular pasta made with buckwheat or now more commonly whole wheat. Rice meanwhile is the treasured thread that binds all of the region’s ingredients with endless combinations of seafood, vegetables, herbs and meat used in the popular risotto. MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO CHEF TALK The food of Veneto, one of Italy’s Northernmost regions, is richly diverse. Fish and seafood, from crabs to clams, scallops to sea snails arrive fresh from its coast on the Adriatic sea and livestock thrives on its verdant plains. Meanwhile, an array of vegetables grow bountifully in lush gardens, like the humble red radicchio prepared in a multitude of ways, cooked abundantly in rice dishes, melted into soups, grilled with unctuous local olive oil as an accompanying vegetable, or simply eaten raw in fresh salads. 9 © sergio coimbra Continued over ...
- 6. 10 11 One of the most revered chefs of the region, himself born and working in Padua, is Massimiliano Alajmo. A third generation restauranteur, aged 19 he joined the family business Le Calandre in Sarmela di Rubano where his mother, chef Rita Chimetto, had earned the restaurant its first Michelin star in 1992. Within a year Massimiliano became the restaurant’s executive chef, earning the restaurant its second star and in 2002, at just 28 years old he became the youngest chef to earn three Michelin stars. Since then, the restaurant has managed to hold on to its three Michelin stars for 11 consecutive years – no flash in a (copper) pan here. The Alajmo stars appear to be on the ascent with their Ristaurante Quadri, located above the legendary 17th Century Gran Caffe Quadri directly on Venice’s picturesque St. Mark’s Square, scooping its first Michelin star within only six months of its opening in June 2011: the fifth for this formidable family enterprise. As well as clocking up the accolades, the family also run a string of bistros (and an upcoming outpost in Paris no less), a food store featuring regional and self-branded products and a line of design objects, including bespoke tableware crafted by local Italian artisans, award-winning china (exclusively manufactured for them by Rosenthal no less) and hand blown glassware that draws on the ancient glassblowing traditions of nearby Murano island. The same design elements can be seen in the dining room at Le Calandre where modern art lines the walls, sculpture abounds and tying together their principles, quite literally, a string of wool running right through the dining room; as Alajmo says: “Cuisine is like a needle that passing repeatedly through small holes creates a thread so thin and strong that it unconsciously binds us all.” Poetry, art and contemporary design balanced with strong ties to traditional Italian cuisine, a sense of heritage and core family values are evident throughout. From the visual references in the dining room to the artistry on the plate, it is no wonder Max has earned the nickname “il Mozart dei fornelli“ (Mozart of the stove) for his passion, creativity and his fiercely creative compositions. Striking images of the dishes and the creative process behind them are captured in a recent self-published book. Prolific writers, brothers ‘Max’ and Raffaele (or ‘Raf’ as he’s affectionately known, as he adeptly leads front of house) have followed up their award winning first cookbook In.gredienti with a second Fluidita. Whilst In.gredienti explored the materials that form the basis of Max’s cuisine, or what he described as “the spiritual essence that enables us to engage consciously with ourselves” Fluidita builds on his culinary philosophy. Tracking seven years of experimentation, the book presents 70 previously unpublished recipes that fuse traditional cooking methods with modern technology. Traditional Italian cuisine is redefined and injected with new life in dishes such as his steamed Pjzza, exploring dough’s essential properties in a technical twist on Italy’s most symbolic food. Innovative recipes such as the floridly titled “Nonexistent tripe ravioli with rosemary-scented white bean purée” containing tofu, play on textures and taste perceptions of similar ingredients, in this case tofu skins and tripe. Imaginatively presented, dishes are depicted in aptly inventive and mesmerising images, photographed under a veil of water so as to capture in visual form, the essential vibration and vitality of each plate. Yet despite their creative spirit Alajmo’s sophisticated dishes remain firmly rooted in tradition using predominantly Italian ingredients with an inherent appreciation of his heartfelt culinary heritage. © sergio coimbra “ The lemon [Essenze] will do more than travel through the air; it truly interacts with the other ingredients. Everything becomes refreshing and the perception of the aroma is much stronger. “ MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO Continued over ...
- 7. 13 A DIALOGUE WITH THE CHEF Is there 1 ingredient you value above all others in your cuisine? Water What and where was the most memorable meal you have had? Every meal I have ever had in Sicily. Art and design are an integral part of your restaurant. What keeps you inspired both visually and gastronomically? Looking at the world through the eyes of a child. What would your last supper would consist of? Bread, Sicilian extra virgin olive oil and a vintage bottle of red wine. It would take place at a round table at the end of a glass pier leading out to the sea. In the centre of the table, there would be a single dish filled with the olive oil for communal dipping. Around the table would be seated my friends and family. What is your signature dish? Saffron risotto with licorice powder and incense. Le Calandre is a family labor of love. Working closely with your brother, how do you manage to balance each other’s temperaments? By sitting down and eating together. You use Flavour Essences as notes for your dishes-how do you create these and an example of how they best be used? Dante Lorenzo Ferro, a master perfumer makes them based on my suggestions. They can be used both as ingredients in recipes or as finishing touches. I enjoy pairing unexpected scents with skewers of fresh fruit: mint essence with mango, rose and raspberry, anise and watermelon. Your new project takes you to Paris. How does your Italian heritage translate to a city with such a strong food identity? Having a strongly rooted cultural and culinary heritage helps. It allows me to experiment without worrying about losing my Italian identity. LE CALANDRE Via Liguria 1 35030 Sarmeola di Rubano (PD) Italy +39 049 630303 RISTORANTE QUADRI Piazza San Marco 121 30124 Venezia (VE) Italy +39 041 5222105 copyright Namai Bishop ESSENZI: ESSENTIAL OIL SPRAYS Yet another dimension to this chef’s pioneering techniques emerges through his development and use of a bespoke range of “Essenze”. Working with master perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro and after more than a year of research exploring the interplay of aromas and taste, Max launched a range of pure essential oil sprays Essenze to be used as he describes, as “taste accelerators”. And a surge of pure sensual pleasure they certainly are. When we experienced these remarkable oils (some requiring hundreds of grams of raw materials to produce a single drop) they added a heady, multi-sensory taste-memory: floral, citrus, herbal, musky or when used as a finishing spritz to the creamy saffron risotto with licorice powder, smoky “incense” lent a heady mist redolent of ecclesiastical ceremony. Thanks to the extensive research undertaken by the chef, he has managed to find a system to slow down the evaporation process by using fats and liquids. “These Essenze are, in fact, pure extractions: citrus fruits are extracted by pressure, like an olive, while all other ingredients undergo a supercritical extraction at about 37 degrees.” This advanced extraction method ensures the molecule remains intact so just a few delicate sprays are enough to create a penetrating potency with the lightest of touch. “Try preparing a sauce by emulsifying fish with water and a little olive oil. Finish it with a spray of lemon. The lemon will do more than travel through the air; it truly interacts with the other ingredients. Everything becomes refreshing and the perception of the aroma is much stronger. So our food becomes more ethereal but also more incisive.” Meanwhile, the pioneering work continues with their latest research project aimed at finding means to create lactic sensations without the use of diary, such as protein- rich plant ingredients like fava beans. A PERFECT PAIR(ING) The Alajmo brothers are as different in stature as they are in aptitude yet attribute their success to their ability to work together as “two faces of the same coin”. Whilst genteel Max is tall and lean, affable sibling ‘Raf’ was the inspiration behind the rotund hand blown wine goblets, the ‘Raf’ and the ‘maxi- Raf’ created especially for the restaurants (the glassware ode to Max meanwhile is in the form of his thumbprint embedded in the tumblers). Glasses are kept replete with a dazzling array of well selected wines, carefully chosen by the brothers themselves to enhance the flavours on the plate. A wine pairing here perfectly frames the artistic compositions on the plate, with accomplished sommeliers navigating diners on a wine flight that is more akin to a jet display! The powerful vibrancy of dining experience is balanced with a tender touch in the kitchen producing textures like feathery pastry and the smoothest of “creams” that reflect the chef’s key values: lightness, depth of flavour and, as his latest anthology is appropriately named after: fluidity. © sergio coimbra
- 8. 14 15 hile we’re growing up, we’re encouraged to believe that we’re all pretty much the same as each other, though most of us realise during our teens, if not before, that we are different to everyone else, in some respects at least. Are we all the same as each other? Well yes and no. In lots of ways we are: we all need to eat to keep going, and we all have an idea of what it is we like or don’t like. Some The Sensory In recent years a number of chefs have attracted attention from the media by providing more than just food on their plates. Service has included sound effects and billowing smoke as well as carefully planned visual presentation, aimed at extending the range and depth of customers’ enjoyment. Although these devices are supposed to be enhancements that everyone will enjoy, there will have been quite a few customers who either won’t have got the point, or will have reacted negatively. To be effective and appropriate, these extras need to be carefully targeted at individuals, or offered in a way that allows those who don’t respond positively to escape without feeling that they’ve missed something. When they’re presented as ‘essential’ and ‘an important part of the dish’, some will see their own failure to understand or enjoy the extras as a failure on their part, when it isn’t. of those preferences, including the ones we believe we’ve learned as children, are actually a consequence of our genes, things we couldn’t change even if we wanted to (like the colour of our eyes or our hair). There’s been an enormous amount of research, some of it very useful, over the last twenty years and more, to try and establish which bits of the way we are come from inheritance, and which from the way we’re brought up. One of the most remarkable discoveries, which shifted the balance between ‘nurture’ and ‘nature’ in scientists’ understanding, was the recognition that we develop neural networks in our brains as babies which are a response to direct stimulus (that is, our brains grow in a particular way to deal with the particular things our parents do with us — like singing or dancing or talking in more than one language), so a lot more of the qualities and capacities that we used to believe were inherited have turned out to be learned instead. Continued over ... “ If you’ve got a strong sense of smell, you can smell bad things as well as good; you will have a very strong opinion about smoke, and whether it should be consumed or not... “ COLIN ROTH Aleksandar Mijatovic/shutterstock.com
- 9. 16 | SENSORY MATRIX preference, 1, 2, 3, that affects which things work most powerfully for us. Our brains have either learned, or are wired by inheritance, to deal with that kind of thing most effectively. Our secondary sense is our ‘check sense’, the one with which we confirm what we’re learning or thinking about with our primary sense — so visual people might write something down, making a visual note with a touchy-feely action to help them remember. And we have a third sense that isn’t as efficient. Because we like our hobbies to be absorbing, it’s quite common to find that people have hobbies in that third sense area: for example, people who don’t listen very effectively often enjoy listening to music: they have to concentrate on it, so it’s very good at shutting out the things they want a break from. People whose third sense is vision don’t see notes that people have left for them, so if something hasn’t been said, it hasn’t happened, so far as they’re concerned. And they quite often enjoy going to art galleries or to see films: they like talking their way into and through the images they see because they have to translate them into their sound or touchy feely world to be able to ‘read’ them. We just don’t know (yet) whether this sensory matrix is learned, or whether it’s inherited. Because a couple who have a baby often get together in the first place because they ‘have things in common’, it’s almost impossible to work out whether their babies are inheriting sensory preferences from their parents, or learning their parents’ preferred behaviours when they’re babies. What we do know is that it has a huge impact on our learning (because we learn most effectively in our primary sense, much less well in our third — ‘dyslexic’ people are almost always ‘eyes down’ touchy feely people who were taught to read visually when what they needed was to learn by doing, holding something and making letter shapes to correspond with letters and words) and on our career choices. Some career are much better suited to some sensory profiles than others. And you may have already realised that an awful lot of people who enjoy cooking, and find it absorbing and rewarding, are touchy feely, have eyes that tend to go downwards when they’re asked a question, and have very strong sensory capacities. Unfortunately, that’s a challenge as well as a blessing: if you’ve got a strong sense of smell, you can smell bad things as well as good; you will have a very strong opinion about smoke, and whether it should be consumed or not; you will love, or hate, people wearing perfume near your food; you will love, or hate, flowers that contradict or confuse the smells you want to dominate a space. There’s a pretty good chance that you’ll have strong emotions in every way. So to be an effective communicator and entertainer — because that’s what a good chef is, as well as being a thoroughly competent producer of food to eat — you need to be aware of, and respond to, the fact that every one of the people eating the food you make will have their own primary sense, and may not notice the effort you’ve put into something you’ve made for them that they can’t ‘read’. Although some people find ‘crunch’ sounds enhance the taste of crisps, there are quite a lot for whom the sound simply doesn’t register. The same goes for musical dressings, or performative elements like smoke and ice and temperature difference and even for the way the food is laid out on a plate. There will be some of your customers who simply don’t notice these things — though with luck, they’ve already realised that, and won’t be sitting at your table, paying the prices you’re charging for doing it. There isn’t one right way to do things. As chefs’ particular specialisms as makers of entertainment, craftsmen and women in the culinary arts, become known, they will tend to attract audiences (including reasonably compatible couples) who know what they like, and like what they’re paying for. But it’s worth remembering that there are always going to be people who don’t know how their preferences work, and can’t see the point or the value of the way you do things —the really skilful craftsman or woman will have made sure that what they’ve made can also appeal to ‘the others’ too: that there is a back up within every meal, perhaps even every dish, so that visual, hearing and touchy-feely people can all get something out of a trip to your restaurant. Remembering that we are not all the same, and trying to cover a fuller range of preferences than just the particular one we do well ourselves, can help you to reach and satisfy a wider audience, and give a stronger basis to your business because you can ‘speak’ to a more diverse public than just the people who share your own preferences and like having them fulfilled. But just because they’ve ‘only’ been learned, doesn’t mean that these important parts of our individual personalities can be changed at will. We know now that neural networks go on growing in adult life, so it is possible to learn new skills, new abilities, even after we think we’ve settled ‘who we are’. But our brains are, by that time, still physically wired to do the things they learned to do when we were tiny, so our early experience always continues to shape our choices and competencies. What does that mean for us as individuals? Well, the most interesting and practically useful work on the subject was done in the 1970s by a pair of American therapists called John Grinder and Richard Bandler. Although the white-coated brigade have picked at the holes, some of them quite big ones, in Neuro-Linguistic Programming, it remains a powerfully observed and, when used thoughtfully, productive branch of hypnotherapy. And one of its observations, about how to best hypnotise different people by engineering a hypnotic induction especially for them, sheds considerable light on our individual capacities and learning processes. Bandler and Grinder saw that some people responded much more quickly to a visually based ‘script’ when being led into a hypnotic trance (‘watch the waves rolling in gently as you feel more and more relaxed…’), and that they could predict which people would be responsive to visual ideas by watching their eye movements when they answered questions. The same was true for people who responded most strongly to auditory (talking/hearing) suggestions, and for those who found kinaesthetic (touchy-feely) ideas the most effective. If you ask a primarily visual person a question, you’ll see their eyes go upwards (even if only just over the horizon) while they think of the answer. If you do the same with an auditory person, their eyes will go to one side. A touchy-feely person’s eyes go downwards while they think. And in each case, the person answering’s eyes will flick to one of the other directions just before they speak. If you ask enough questions, or just think about how someone’s face looks when you’re talking to them, you’ll find that there’s one pattern that they use almost all the time, and there’s likely to be one direction that their eyes go in very rarely indeed. If you can work out which, and try asking them a question based in that sense, you’ll find it takes them longer to answer, because they have to ‘translate’ it into a sense they can manage better. So, what we learn from NLP is that we all have three main senses that we use in experiencing life and communication from others, and that each of us has an order of “ Although some people find ‘crunch’ sounds enhance the taste of crisps, there are quite a lot for whom the sound simply doesn’t register... “ COLIN ROTH Our Beans, Our Production, Your Chocolate Drawing on more than 100 years of rich heritage, tradition and knowledge of cocoa, a new line of chocolate couvertures, service products and much more has been created by deZaan™ Gourmet to enhance your creativity and passion and intensify your chocolate experience. Responsibly and sustainably sourced, deZaan™ Gourmet products are produced entirely in Europe, using the highest quality ingredients, attributing to their ease of use. 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- 10. 18 “It was a beautiful day in September and our destination was Drakes in Ripley, a Surrey village since Norman times.” NICO LADENIS OBSERVES: STEVEN DRAKE n that day it was bathed in sunshine. The restaurant sits alone, set back from the road, shining like a jewel. Greeted by the manager, we were shown to the garden which has an immaculate lawn, lush foliage and flowers all around. The sun was so hot we sought shelter under umbrellas and contemplated our good fortune. I had butterflies in my tummy because it brought back so many memories of our years in the South of France. The Moulin de Mougins comes into focus as does the Hostellerie de Pennafort in Callas(for us by far the best food and service in the region) and the Clos St Pierre in Le Rouret. And how can I forget Richard Olney and an al fresco meal we had at his house above the village of Sollies-Toucas in Provence, terrine of oxtail served with leaves and nasturtium petals picked from his garden and peaches poached in La Tour Blanche – the 1939 vintage! Dinah-Jane and I always prefer to eat at lunchtime. There seems to be more pleasure and time to enjoy a long meal during the day. Somehow the senses appear more charged and the eye is able to contemplate a more complete vision of what there is to come. 19 “ There seems to be more pleasure and time to enjoy a long meal during the day. Somehow the senses appear more charged and the eye is able to contemplate a more complete vision of what there is to come. ” NICO LADENIS A brilliant and very dainty assortment of canapés were most appropriately washed down by an English sparkling wine from Hampshire, not too dissimilar from Champagne. The dining room is very plain, no gimmicks or distractions. The tables are well spaced out and truly comfortable. The service is attentive, charming and professional. The sommelier was full of enthusiasm when discussing his choice of wines, of which an Alsace Riesling was particularly outstanding. A selection of breads was placed in front of us. Sliced sourdough and brioche a tete. Steven Drake came briefly out of the kitchen to describe to us the mini gastronomic menu he proposed. First came a light, immaculate concoction of crayfish mousse, crayfish sauce and a plump tail all presented in a small bowl. The next course was a very imaginative variation on a theme of broccoli. Textures were crunchy and smooth. This was followed by a gigantic scallop, well caramelised and sprinkled with buckwheat. On one side was a pear and saffron chutney and on the other a lemongrass foam. This dish was extraordinary in the quality of the scallop, a truly first grade ingredient. The chutney was a little too pronounced in flavour and the foam was irrelevant. This is a perfect example of “less is more”. The main course was cheek and belly of pork. I am not particularly fond of pork and never go out of my way to eat it but the cheek, coated in a rich reduction, melted in the mouth and was accompanied by two garnishes, one of pickled cucumber which was absolutely delicious and well matched, the other kale. Kale, a new-fangled heavily promoted food is now considered one of the wonder foods and it probably is, but in my case it is a bore with too much iron and it aggravates my gout! A plate of English cheeses followed. Superlative, every one of them, and beautifully presented with a variety of biscuits and slices of unbelievably good walnut bread. The mint and pea ice cream which sat on a bed of crumble was uniformly acclaimed. The main pudding was well judged because it was light and presented in bite sized portions. I sat there and thought of Steven. I remember him well when Chez Nico was at Great Portland Street and then Park Lane. He was very polite and well mannered, very dedicated and hard working. I have a picture of him with a pile of small aluminium darioles, slicing large potatoes on a mandolin to make crispy galettes. He was always reliable and dependable. I see him now as a very daring young chef, full of imagination and good technique, his feet in two camps, one traditional and the other modern. I hope that his hungry search for new textures, flavours and combinations will one day subside and he will become one of the best chefs in our country. This is why I would like to give him some advice if I may. His stepping stones, which he highlights on his menu as “Intrigue, Adventure, Flavour, Simplicity and Discovery” should remain in his soul and in his mind. These words could be misconstrued and, knowing how cruel food critics and some customers can be, they can appear as a red rag to a bull. Left alone these emotive words should be allowed to spring from the plate automatically. There is no greater thrill or satisfaction springing from my career than to see so many of the young men who toiled in my kitchen in years past, now running their own restaurants, cooking beautiful food and being acknowledged. When I sit in their dining rooms to eat, I feel extremely proud and I pinch myself for having had a small hand in their success. The respect and admiration I have for these young chefs are my reward for my years in this trade. I am a lucky man.
- 11. Professional Chef Training at Westminster Kingsway College Are you looking for professional chef training while you work? Do you want to develop your skills for the industry? Enrol now for new courses at Westminster Kingsway College in partnership with the Craft Guild of Chefs. Training the Hospitality industry for over 100 years, Westminster Kingsway College’s School of Hospitality has an excellent reputation both in the UK and across the world with notable former students, including Jamie Oliver and Ainsley Harriott. The College offers a unique opportunity to study at its Victoria Centre in central London SW1, just minutes from zone 1 stations. Professional Chef Courses • Professional Cookery Introduction Level 1 24 weeks from September. £1,270 (or £1,900 for International students)* • Professional Cookery Intermediate Level 2 1 year from January. £1,970 (or £2,600 for International students) * • Advanced Diploma Professional Cookery Level 3 1 year from September or January. £2,070 if aged under 24 or £2,800 if aged over 24** Patisserie Confectionery Courses • Patisserie Confectionery Introduction Level 1 12 weeks from September or January. £700* • Patisserie Confectionery Intermediate Level 2 24 weeks from January. £1,270 (or £1,900 for International students)* • Advanced Diploma Patisserie Confectionery Level 3 1 year from September. £2,070 if aged under 24 or £2,800 if aged over 24* Courses provided by Westminster Kingsway College supported by the Craft Guild of Chefs www.westking.ac.uk 0870 060 9800 courseinfo@westking.ac.uk Twitter @Westking Facebook.com/WestminsterKingsway All of the College’s part-time professional courses are supported by the Craft Guild of Chefs. All applicants for this course should apply to become a member of the Craft Guild of Chefs to enrol. Membership is payable to the Craft Guild of Chefs for programme membership, master classes, competition judging and the regular Stockpot Magazine of the Guild. *All course fees are subject to change. Please note that course fees may change at short notice due to circumstances beyond our control. The fees payable are those in force at the time of enrolment, which supersede any that may previously have been advertised. **Applicants aged over 24 are not eligible for additional government funding for this course. However you may be able to apply for a 24+ Advanced Learning Loan to help fund this course. Contact our Learner Consultants for further details. These specialist one day seminars cover all aspects of small and large game from its identification and preparation to its background, history and cooking tips. The day is divided into two main lectures with the first on feathered and small furred game followed by lunch and the second on venison. It will cover: hanging, quality points, classification, recognition and preparation. The hugely popular game seminars at Westminster Kingsway College are now in their ninth year and it remains one of the only events of its kind in the UK. Chefs from many top establishments have attended including The Sheraton Park Lane, The Landmark, The House of Commons, The Crown Plaza, The Peach Pub company and The Royal Garden Hotel. The seminars attract food experts and amateur chefs who all have a passion to discover more about UK game. The Game Seminar will cover all the theory game elements for VRQ and NVQ 3 qualifications. Visit www.westking.ac.uk/game for forthcoming dates. Westminster Kingsway College is excited to offer a brand new programme of study; International Chef Diplomas. These dedicated programmes attract students from all over the world who want to learn in central London. Over 24 weeks, you will learn the skills to be a confident chef in the hospitality industry. Contact courseinfo@westking.ac.uk or visit www.westking.ac.uk/internationaldiploma to find out more. Game seminars International Chef Diplomas
- 12. 23 round the rest of Europe and much of the globe, not a second thought is given to barbecued intestines or heart tapas. Indeed, certain cuts are considered a delicacy, the piece de resistance of a banquet. In China you’d be thought incredibly rude for waving away a plate of chicken feet. In Ethiopia and Eritrea, tripe, liver and ground meat are fried in clarified butter to create dulot ordulet. Brain is breaded and fried in Cuban fritters. Blood is a go-to in countless recipes from Scandinavian blood pancakes to coagulated cubes in Southeast Asian soups and of course, blood sausage or pudding is common across many cultures, including Polish kiszka, French boudin noir and Puerto Rican morcilla. Even, it is whispered, the English breakfast. There is no room for squeamish sensitivities in the world of offal cooking. No cut is off limits. Take thymus glands for example. Better known as sweetbreads, they’re typically poached, braised or sautéed. Even dressed up on a Michelin starred plate they’re not the prettiest proposition. And that’s what gives offal its honesty. It’s all about the taste. A case in point is Sicilian spleen sandwiches. Pani cu i meuza is a widely available street food on the island. The organ is sliced up and mingled with other tit bits such as lungs and is then fried in animal fat, stuffed in a bun and served with a slice of Sicilian lemon and perhaps some grated local caciocavallo cheese. Not exactly the most delicate of delicacies, it has to let the flavour speak for itself. With an infinite variety of combinations, offal is incredibly versatile so are Brits missing a trick? Surely with such a multitude of options available there’s something most meat eaters could enjoy. And as a nation, we haven’t always rejected the notion of offal Intestines. Eyeballs. Thymus glands. The stuff of culinary nightmares. Or criminally overlooked kitchen treasure. It’s not just a matter of taste, it’s a room divider. Offal, the parts of an animal that some of us will not dare to reach, covers any meat which falls outside the auspices of skeletal muscle. A glorious panoply of organs. Or a literally gut wrenching mismatch of horror food that has no place on a dining plate. There’s no getting away from it, offal is the Marmite of the menu. In the UK at least. THE MAGIC OF OFFAL eating; heart, brain and lungs were a staple of British food for hundreds of years. Certain cuts still find favour. Liver and onions and steak and kidney pie more often than not figure on greasy spoon menus. Black pudding is used as a nice addition to a fry up. But as a food group, offal has not figured highly in British cuisine for a very long time. Luckily for those of us who embrace the joy of smothering a crisp piece of toast in a healthy helping of bone marrow, things are changing. And fast. The offal revolution is generally accepted to have started with the opening of Fergus Henderson’s St John in London in 1994. Its now legendary emphasis on ‘nose to tail eating’ has arguably spawned a whole new food movement and the eponymous book has become a legend in its own right. Henderson’s roast bone marrow and parsley salad was responsible for converting many a sceptic. Several years ago in an interview with the Telegraph, Henderson laid down the philosophy behind nose to tail eating, “…it seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it. Rather than being testosterone-fuelled blood-lust, it actually seems to be a gentle approach to meat eating.” On Archer Street in London’s Soho, Boca Di Lupo’s refined offerings follow a similar course. Amongst Artichoke alla giudia and home-salted cod, you’ll find tripe with guanciale, chilli and tomato and lamb sweetbreads with artichokes and sage. Even the pudding menu manages to smuggle in some blood. A cold dish of sweet pigs’ bloody salami incorporates a powerful and winning combination of chocolate, pine nuts, pistachios and candied fruits. In the modern UK restaurant scene efforts are certainly being made to push offal to the forefront of British food culture. And rightly so. Its makes sense on so many levels. The most glaringly obvious argument in favour of offal is its price. Although the cost of offal has gone up as people have started to unlock its inner beauty, it’s still relatively good value. The butcher’s window says it all. Compare a kilo of ox cheeks and the same weight of even an average cut of beef from the more favoured parts of the animal and the figures say it all. It seems both churlish to the animal whose parts are being discarded and plain stupidity financially to disregard offal because we don’t like the thought of a beautifully braised tongue or a fiery dish of tripe and chillis. There’s a world of flavour out there and thankfully more and more opportunities to dive into it. From the braised pigs’ knuckle of Manchester’s China Town to the refined offerings of London’s west end, sometimes forgotten but gloriously tasty cuts are waiting to be discovered. LAMB SWEETBREAD VOL AU VENT WITH WILD MUSHROOMS By Daniel Galmiche Serves 4 PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 25 minutes For a while now, I’ve wanted to do a lamb sweetbread vol au vent (in a puff pastry case). So, vol au vents are not only very popular in France but also in Britain, perhaps not with lamb sweetbreads though! This is a very tasty dish, which can be, depending on the size, a starter or main course. It’s best to ask your butcher to prep the sweetbreads for you, it will be just better. With mushrooms, fresh herbs, lamb stock and a touch of whipped cream to go with it, you are going to delight your guests. But, that’s not quite all, what you need beside it are some pan fried courgettes with garlic and a lovely glass of red wine. INGREDIENTS 12 discs of all butter puff pastry, 5mm/¼ thick by 9cm/3½ diameter 1 egg, beaten 300g/10½ oz lamb sweetbreads 40g/1½ oz butter 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp very fine dry breadcrumbs 300g/10½ oz mixed wild or button mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed 70ml/2¼ floz whipping cream 1 tbsp chives, chopped METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5. 2. Put 4 of the pastry discs onto a silicone or greaseproof lined tray. Using a 7.5cm/3 cutter, cut the other 8 discs, leaving just the outer ring – save the centres for something else. Brush the whole disc with the beaten egg, making sure none goes over the edge, then lay a ring of pastry on top, edge to edge. Carefully brush with egg then repeat with another disc on top so you have 4 stacks of discs and rings. Brush the top with more egg and then place 4 dariole or pudding moulds on the outer corner of the tray – this is will help them rise evenly and not tip over. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes, turning the tray front to back after 10 minutes. 3. While the pastry cooks, bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the sweetbreads and blanch for 1-1½ minutes, then refresh in iced water, pat dry and remove the skin. Cut the sweetbreads into large cubes. Place in a tray with a little flour to coat, then tap off any excess. Heat a frying pan until hot, add 20g/¾oz butter and tablespoon of oil, and when the butter is foaming, add the sweetbreads and fry for about 4-5 minutes until golden brown and crispy. Add the breadcrumbs, toss to combine and cook for 1 minute more until crunchy, then drain onto kitchen towel to remove excess fat. 4. When the pastry is ready, lightly press your fingers in the centre of the vol au vent and press the pastry down. Set aside to firm up, but keep somewhere warm. 5. When the sweetbreads and pastry are ready, heat a non stick frying pan until hot, add the last 20g/¾oz butter and tablespoon of olive oil and when the butter is foaming, add the mushrooms and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add the cream and bring to the boil, then after 2-3 minutes, when it starts to coat the mushrooms, add the cooked sweetbreads and chives, toss to combine then check the seasoning. Spoon into the cooked puff pastry cases and serve with whatever you fancy – wilted spinach or red chard both go really well.
- 13. 24 25 Alba White Truffles INGREDIENT: SEASONAL IDENTIFYING ALBA WHITE TRUFFLES White truffles are judged by sight, touch and smell. Ideally they need to be intact, firm but yield to touch and smell fresh – not of mould or rot. Hard truffles are probably too young and not ready, and one that is too soft or starts to smell of dirty socks is probably past its prime. Truffles grows symbiotically among the roots of different trees like oak, poplars, willows, beech and hazelnuts. The tree species influences its aroma and colour too. The ones found in the roots of Oak trees tend to be a creamy white, have the most pungent perfume and are the most sought after. The ones from the roots of some poplar trees have Continued over ... The white truffle from Alba is a luxury commodity, and has long been recognised by the gastronomic community as the one with the highest quality, and subsequently commanding the highest price. This truffle is considered by many to be the world’s highest quality truffle as it has the most intense aroma, which has been described as a combination of meat, cheese, garlic and spices. It is definitely unique and much of the enjoyment is from the pervading smell as you eat it. This prized fungus is rare, and seasonal, and only available from the end of September until January, or when the winter snow arrives. They are only found in the damp forests of the hilly Langhe region in southern Piedmont, north east Italy. aroma to intensify. You must never cook white truffles, unlike black truffles, in which cooking will bring out the flavour. MARKET PRICE OF THE TRUFFLES White truffles are foraged from wild forests, but the numbers found are diminishing yearly, as woodlands are increasingly being turned into agriculture land and the surrounding soil has often been contaminated by pesticides. They cannot be formulated or cultivated, unlike black truffles – there are many truffle farms now, growing black truffles, but these only fetch a fraction of the price of white truffles. Several days spent at the Annual Alba White Truffle Fair, speaking to truffle hunters, dealers and chefs, will bring an appreciation of this rare and highly exalted fungus. The scarcity of Italian white truffles and increasing international demand is one of the reasons for the exorbitant prices. Besides Alba, Italian white truffles are also found in Tuscany and Molise, but they are deemed to be inferior in aroma and flavour and tend to have lower market prices. The market price is set every season, depending on the supply, and is not just dependent on weight but also on size, shape, colour and age. The prices vary from year to year depending on that year’s available supply and demand, and this year prices are ranging from £2,500 to £5000 per kilogram. a brownish colour and have a red line or a pink tinge which the experts deem inferior to the oak ones and are less perfumed. An Alba truffle can sometimes be identified by its irregular shape, due to the hard clay soil that it grows in around the Piedmont region. You will rarely find perfectly round or oval shaped Alba truffles. The white truffles is best eaten within a week of harvesting. After a week, the truffle’s aroma and flavour is vastly diminished, and it can start to rot or dry out. It can be kept in a wet paper towel in the fridge, for a few days, but never in oil, as this can cause mould, or in rice, as this dries it out. The white truffles is best enjoyed shaved thinly onto on simple hot dishes, to enable the There are only a small number of people who can identify and authenticate real Alba truffles. At the Alba Truffle Fair, voluntary judges will assess any truffles you want to buy from the assembled truffle hunters, and the specimen is then given a certificate of authenticity. A good source, when buying, is probably one of the truffle dealers from Alba, as they have had years of experience in identifying and classifying the different types of white truffles, and buy directly from trusted licensed truffle hunters. Truffle dealers outside of Italy are usually the middlemen, who supply restaurants around the world. These dealers have had years of experience in identifying and classifying the different types of white truffles. Many chefs and restaurateurs rely on the reputation of these dealers, as many of them will probably not make the trip to Alba themselves. Demand for white truffles, and especially those from Alba, has been steadily increasing over the years, as dealers have been actively marketing their products to non-Italian markets. Today, driven by the demand of the new wealth in these emerging markets, we see fashionable restaurants from Singapore to Dubai offering truffle menus during the season. In some other countries, white truffles are being offered at prices way below the average market prices in Alba, but generally these will not be the top quality Alba truffles but rather from another Italian region, as it’s unlikely that a truffle hunter or dealer will sell at a loss. Some truffle sellers have been known to dupe unsuspecting buyers by bundling in cheaper white truffles, from other regions, with some real highly perfumed Alba white truffles. The inferior truffles will temporarily absorb some of the aroma from the Alba truffles, but this aroma does not penetrate and will fade quite quickly. If you are buying truffles from a third party, and not in Alba itself, it pays to understand the product, and the Alba white truffle market, to ensure you are getting the real deal. Some less experienced chefs have been know to buy expensive white truffles which were later found to not even be Italian, let alone from Alba. luri/shutterstock.com
- 14. his breed has its origins in the Severn Valley in Gloucestershire. This is a cheese and cider region and the Old Spot was sometimes known as the ‘orchard pig’, as it was traditionally found in cider and Perry orchards. Old folklore is that the spots are bruises from fallen fruit. The breed was developed in response to farming conditions in the 1800s. Farmers needed a hardy animal that would flourish on a varied diet. Indeed the breed is considered to be the oldest spotted pedigree pig in the world with reference first made to it in 1850. In the 1930s people were encouraged to make bacon at home and this shift marked the beginning of the decline for the Gloucester Old Spot. In spite of the fact that the Gloucester Old Spot makes great bacon, it has a slow rate of maturation and, as a result, was shunned for faster finishing pigs. This, coupled with the trend for leaner meat, proved almost fatal and numbers dropped until the 1970s, since which time it has seen a marked improvement in registered numbers and now has a good population. 26 Gloucester Old Spot Pig 27 Image ©Tree Top Farm Continued over ... About Slow Food UK Chef Alliance Slow Food UK developed the Chef Alliance in 2011 in recognition of those chefs who share our vision to champion small-scale producers and good quality local and sustainably produced food. There are currently over 120 leading chefs in England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales who are members of the Alliance. The Slow Food UK Chef Alliance is supported by Lavazza. About UK Ark Of Taste programme Our way of protecting Britain’s edible bio-diversity: the UK Ark of Taste is part of the International Ark of Taste network, which counts more than 2000 products from over 60 countries. The UK Ark Of Taste programme is supported by Restaurant Associates. The Gloucester Old Spot has large lop ears and pale skin with irregular black spots. It is a dual purpose breed with a docile nature. The carcass produces well-marbled meat and the depth of the body produces high quality bacon and crackling. INGREDIENT: MAIN ARK OF TASTE PRODUCT
- 15. 28 | MAIN INGREDIENT 29 PRESSED TERRINE OF GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT PIG CHEEKS, SMOKED HAM HOCK AND LEEK By David Everitt-Matthias Serves 12-14 INGREDIENTS ham hock: 350g smoked ham hock 200g roughly chopped carrots 100g each roughly chopped onion, leek and celery 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 bay leaves a sprig of thyme 10 white peppercorns terrine: 1 medium celeriac, about 700–800g 100g unsalted butter 24 pig’s cheeks, trimmed salt and aromatics as for Confit of Duck Leg 750g duck fat 25 thin baby leeks 400g brown chicken stock reduced to 100g This is one of my favourite starters: a terrine of pig’s cheeks, cooked slowly in duck fat, and poached smoked ham hock, served with home-cured pork jowl. The terrine has just a little jus to help it set when pressed and to keep it moist. This porcine lover’s delight is served with a pear purée, which helps cut the richness of the terrine, raw pear for texture and honeyed mustard seeds for a touch of heat. It is worth the wait for the home-cured jowl (which makes great bacon) and the Gloucester Old Spot is a great rare breed for this recipe. METHOD ham hock: 1. Soak the smoked ham hock overnight in cold water to remove excess salt. 2. The next day, place it in a large saucepan with the vegetables and aromatics. Cover with water and bring to the boil, then skim and simmer for 3 ½–4 hours, until the meat is coming easily away from the bone. 3. Lift out the hock (strain the stock and keep for a soup or broth). Remove the meat from the bones, discarding the skin and picking off any bits of gristle and fat. Place in a container. celeriac: 1. Peel the celeriac and slice as finely as possible. Line a baking tray, about 52x32cm, with baking parchment. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then brush the baking parchment with a little of it. 2. Season, then cover with overlapping slices of celeriac to form a rectangular sheet about 25x36cm in size. Brush with more butter and season. 3. Place in an oven preheated to 180°C/ Gas Mark 4 and cook for 5 minutes. 4. Turn the celeriac sheet over (this manoeuvre will need another baking tray lined with buttered parchment) and cook for a further 5 minutes. 5. Remove from the oven and place a sheet of baking parchment on top of the celeriac. Set a baking tray of the same size on top and add a heavy weight. Cool, then place in the fridge to chill. When cold, remove from the trays and remove the paper. Cut into two equal rectangles, about 36x12cm, for the top and bottom of the terrine. pig’s cheeks: 1. Salt the pig’s cheeks with the salt and aromatics. Pack tightly in a bag or container and leave for 6 hours only. 2. Remove the salt and herbs by quickly rinsing under cold water and dry well. 3. In a heavy-based ovenproof pot or a high sided baking tray large enough to fit the cheeks, melt the duck fat over a low heat. Add the cheeks, which should be completely covered with fat. Cover with foil, then place in an oven preheated to 150°C/ Gas Mark 2 and simmer gently for 2 to 2½ hours, until tender. To check, prick with a fork: there should be no resistance. Keep warm in the fat until needed. leeks: 1. Iemove any damaged outer leaves from the leeks and trim the green end, then carefully trim the bottom, leaving the smallest amount of root intact. 2. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the leeks and cook for 3–4 minutes, until tender. Place on a tray and squeeze the excess water out of them. Keep warm. terrine: 1. The ham hock, pig’s cheeks and reduced stock should be warm, so reheat if necessary. 2. Place a frame, about 36x12x4cm, on a tray and line with 2 layers of cling film, overlapping the sides of the frame. 3. Carefully place one of the celeriac rectangles on the bottom of the frame and drizzle over a little of the reduced chicken stock. 4. Neatly arrange the pigs’ cheeks next to each other, 3 across and 8 along, in a layer on the celeriac. Press down well with a board that fits inside the frame. 5. Season and drizzle with chicken stock, then add the leeks, arranged top to tail along the length of the terrine. Press down well again. Drizzle with chicken stock and season. 6. Evenly place a layer of smoked ham hock all over the leeks. Drizzle with the last bit of stock and season. 7. Carefully lay the other rectangle of celeriac on top and press down well with the board. 8. Bring the cling film up and over the terrine, and seal. Prick lightly with a fork and place the board on top. Place 2 heavy weights on the board and leave in the fridge overnight to set. 9. About 40 minutes before serving, take the terrine from the fridge, to take the chill off it, and remove it from the frame. Remember to remove the cling film before serving! Chef Biography: David Everitt-Matthias London-born chef and author David Everitt-Matthias has been the co- owner and head chef of two Michelin starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham since 1987, a joint venture he shares with his wife Helen. David began his career in 1978 at London’s Inn on the Park (now the Four Seasons), before developing his French-style technique while working under renowned French Chef Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire. David moved on shortly after to become Head Chef of Grand Café in 1983. After two years there, David took his second head chef position at Steamers Fish Restaurant, and wrapping up his time in London at Fingals Restaurant Putney in 1987. Married two years prior, David and his wife Helen moved to Cheltenham Spa in the Cotswolds to open their dream restaurant in 1987. Le Champignon Sauvage, meaning ‘wild mushroom’ is no stranger to awards. Some of the accolades David and the restaurant have received include 2014 Good Food Guide Chef of the Year, 2013 Observer Food Monthly Outstanding Achievement Award, 2007 Catey Chef of the Year, 2006 BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year, while Le Champignon Sauvage has retained its two Michelin stars since 2000. David is the author of three highly regarded recipe books: Essence: Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage in 2006 and Dessert Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage in 2009, the latter earned runner-up for Best Cookbook in the World from the Gourmand Book Awards. His third, Beyond Essence: New Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage was launched in spring 2013. David is one of the country’s most respected and celebrated chefs, renowned for his creative use of local and foraged ingredients.
- 16. cocoa bean (cacao bean) INGREDIENT: UNUSUAL he seeds of the cacao tree are naturally white but take on the more familiar darker colour when dried. Containing 40-50% cocoa butter, cocoa beans also have high levels of flavenoids which may be beneficial for the heart. Cocoa, or cacao, beans are most commonly used to make cocoa, chocolate, and cocoa butter, and are widely associated with all things sweet. However, the raw product is not naturally sweet – its savoury flavour combines well with meaty and nutty ingredients such as chicken or almonds and an increasing number of chefs are experimenting with it in savoury dishes. Cocoa ‘nibs’ are cocoa beans that have been dried, roasted and cruched into small pieces. When the nibs are ground down, this allows the separation of the cocoa butter from the cocoa solids, which are then used to make chocolate, but the nibs are becoming increasingly popular as an ingredient in their own right. Containing no sugar and with a texture similar to macademias, they can add texture and flavour to salads and tagines, as well as to the more obvious biscuits and cakes. More unusual is the use of whole cocoa beans as an ingredient, but one of our chef editorial board members, Andreas Antona, has shared one of his recipes which does, in fact, use the whole cocoa bean. We hope you will try it out and let us know what you think.... Continued over ... Valentyn Volkov/shutterstock.com 30 31 The cocoa bean is the dried, fermented, fatty seeds of the tropical tree Theobroma cacao of the family Sterculiaceae.
- 17. 32 | UNUSUAL INGREDIENT CRISPY DUCK EGG, COCOA BEANS AND CHORIZO By Andreas Antona Serves 4 INGREDIENTS eggs: 1 litre sunflower oil 4 duck eggs 8 tbsp coarse breadcrumbs (or Japanese Panko crumbs) 1 chicken egg 4 tbsp plain flour and pinch salt 1 tbsp chopped parsley 3 tbsp vinegar garnish: 3 tbsp cocoa beans 1 shallot 1 clove garlic 1 sprig thyme 1 tbsp chopped chorizo 2 petals of tomato confit 1 tsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp olive oil 50g butter 100g of sliced piquillo pepper handful of rocket leaves METHOD garnish: 1. Remove the cocoa beans from their pods. 2. Cover with fresh water and simmer with the garlic, shallot and thyme for 30 minutes or until tender. Add salt at the end of the cooking time and keep warm in the cooking liquid. 3. Dice the confit tomato to the same size as the chorizo. eggs: 1. Bring a pan of water to a simmer and add the vinegar. Prepare an ice bath. Crack the eggs into a bowl, taking care not to break the yolks. Slip your hand under 1 of the yolks and lift it out of the bowl leaving the white behind. Gently drop the yolk into the simmering water. Repeat quickly with the rest of the eggs. (Use the whites for another dish.) 2. Allow the yolk to poach gently for around 2-3 minutes. They should be set around the outside but completely liquid in the centre. When you are happy that this is the case, use a slotted spoon to lift them into the ice bath where you will leave them until completely chilled – about 10 minutes. 3. Drain the egg yolks on kitchen paper and prepare the coating. 4. Arrange 3 bowls – 1 of flour, 1 of beaten hen’s egg and 1 of crumb and chopped parsley mixed. 5. Pass each yolk through each bowl, first the flour, then egg, then crumbs to give a good coating of crumbs and parsley for each. Reserve the coated yolks in the fridge. to finish and serve 1. Heat the sunflower oil to 180C. Remove the eggs from the fridge 20 minutes before cooking them so that they are not too chilly at the centre. Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a saucepan and sauté the chorizo for 1 minute, then stir in 4 tbsp beans and 1 tbsp of their cooking liquid. When the beans are thoroughly hot add the diced confit tomatoes, piquillo pepper, rocket leaves, parsley and butter. Stir gently to amalgamate the butter and keep warm. 2. Deep fry the eggs until crisp and golden. Drain the eggs on kitchen paper. 3. Spoon some of the bean mixture onto warm plates, season the eggs with salt and place next to the bean mixture and add a few rocket leaves to garnish. 33
- 18. 34 35 n a recent trip to South Korea I wanted to discover what the latest food trends are. With more Koreans visiting the UK we are starting to see the cuisine develop. Already supermarkets are introducing various Korean ingredients: the majority of people have heard of bulgogi, almost everyone knows of kimchi and of course the famous, real KFC aka Korean Fried Chicken. Im was a student of mine at Westminster Kingsway College four years ago and is now working for KBS food channel as a research and development chef. The perfect tour guide, Im knew exactly what I was looking for on the food scene. He told me we were going to visit two restaurants: one specialising in cold noodle called nengmeun and another specialising in a particular ice dessert called bingsu. These dishes were traditionally served in the winter months but nowadays are extremely popular with young Koreans as a summer dish. The first restaurant was very busy. An elegant looking modern building filled with families, young and old. this was unlike the suburban restaurants, and this time I wasn’t sitting on the floor ( Korean traditional dining requires removing shoes and sitting at low tables). As we sat, a waitress brought us a hot drink of memil tea, which is basically the cooking liquid from the noodles we were about to order. Im ordered two dishes: pyeung-yang nengmeun (also known as mul nengmeun) which is flavoured with beef stock and white kimchi liquor, and hamheung nengmeun which is a spicy version without the beef stock. These were accompanied with a yellow mustard similar to Dijon and Geotjeori, which is a fresh kimchi that has had very little fermentation.These dishes originated in the winter months, when the various kimchi are prepared, so using the very fresh fermented vegetables, the liquor was then used with the beef broth. The chilled noodles were freshly made at the restaurant, Im explained the process was difficult – as the dough is made from buckwheat, they are likely to break easily so sweet potato starch is blended in to give more structure. The noodles had a great ‘bite’ to them, while the broth was delicious with a fantastic depth of flavour. I forgot it was cold and devoured the large bowlful! Im had the spicy version which I tried and found was equally good! Unlike Europeans, the Koreans are eating more for the purpose of health and wellbeing, not really to socialise as such, so once lunch or dinner is eaten it is quickly paid for and the guests leave. As we left our table was cleared and the next customers were ready to sit down, creating a very large turnover throughout the day. Next we battled through heavy traffic to Bukchon to try bingsu, again traditionally a winter dish, dating back over 2000 years. Made from shaved ice with maybe a little honey, it is said that, at the time of the Japanese domination of Korea, their love of red beans saw this as an addition to this famous simple icey dish. The sweet red beans stayed and now these are served alongside many other toppings – the ice has now evolved to shaved milk, infused with delightful flavours, and usually finished with a compact chewy rice cake. We arrived to be told we would have to wait 15 minutes to be seated – I was told by Im it would be worth the wait! Eventually we were seated, the menu was at the desk on a tablet. I went for a green tea infused frozen milk with the traditional sweetened red bean – a strange combination but again Im hit the spot and introduced me to yet another Korean delicacy. Wow! the layers of infused ice melted in my mouth and the strange combination definitely worked. I could now see why the Koreans love these cold dishes – winter or summer they are perfect for any foodie anywhere! trends “I was looking for what makes the Koreans excited – what they queuing for and what is ticking their boxes at present – so I met up with my friend Seo Hyung Im.” Seo Hyung Im
- 19. 36 37 Russell Batemanthe sweet taste of success Russell Bateman’s CV reads like a Who’s Who of the great and the good from the UK (and French) restaurant scene over the last 15 years: Nico Ladenis; Marcus Wareing; Marc Veyrat; Eric Chavot; Daniel Clifford – Bateman has worked with them all. And the 34-year-old head chef at Colette’s at The Grove in Hertfordshire credits each and every one with playing their part in helping him achieve victory in the Craft Guild of Chefs’ National Chef of the Year competition in October. Continued over ... CHEF TALK “ I am extremely lucky to have worked with so many great chefs and I think about my experience with all of them all the time. “ RUSSELL BATEMAN
- 20. 38 | CHEF TALK am extremely lucky to have worked with so many great chefs and I think about my experience with all of them all the time,” says Bateman. “They all had a massive influence on me and in the final of the competition there were parts of the dishes that came from all of them.” The fact that Marcus Wareing was on the judging panel – along with some of Bateman’s other idols including Phil Howard, Brett Graham, Bruce Poole, Clare Smyth, Jason Atherton and Tom Kerridge – made his success in the competition even sweeter. “I spent the most time in my career with Marcus [at Petrus] and to have him judge me after working for him all that time ago was just fantastic. “In fact, the judging panel was incredible for this competition: to win a competition with those people judging is like a dream come true, it’s phenomenal. They are the people that everyone in this industry admires, looks up to, and aspires to be like.” It was Bateman’s second attempt at taking the title after making it through to the finals last year. He’d been mentally preparing and planning for the 2014 competition ever since – well, as much as he could do without knowing what ingredients he would have to cook with in the final; the mystery basket of ingredients was revealed to Bateman and the other seven finalists a week before the contest at The Restaurant Show at Earls Court. Bateman believes his experience of being in the final last year put him at a slight advantage over his rivals. “It was a fantastic final line up of chefs competing, so to say I was confident wouldn’t be right, but I knew if I did what I could do, I would do well. “I think the experience of the first competition taught me that I shouldn’t be elaborate or complex, but to keep it simple,” says Bateman. So for his starter he chose to do an oyster panna cotta with scallop and apple tartare and a chilled celeriac consommé, a dish which was the culmination of some degree of strategic thinking. “The judges are tasting eight different people’s dishes and it can get a bit too much, so what you really want is something vibrant and fresh, and cold often delivers that to the palette,” explains Bateman. “It had to be a seafood starter so I decided to do something really fresh, really clean and clear. I wanted it to sing of the sea: when you put the spoon in your mouth it’s like you’re in the harbour and the boats are just coming in.” “ I think a lot of chefs don’t eat out, but it’s inspirational, it’s refreshing, it’s reinvigorating when you eat at someone else’s restaurant. “ RUSSELL BATEMAN His main course of toasted veal sweetbreads seasoned with garam masala and served with saag aloo (“I used turnip instead of potato to tie in with the garam masala so it was more harmonious”) was equally designed to resonate with the judging panel. “My thought process behind it was that chefs love offal, and sweetbreads are invariably a favourite, plus everyone loves a good curry because it’s packed full of flavour. “If you use curry spices in the right way, you can offer more flavour from simplicity,” says Bateman. Dessert, which had to be made using chocolate from the Cacao Barry range, was a take on Bateman’s favourite sweet treat, a rocky road; his elegant, highly technical version consisted of a milk chocolate ganache, frozen dark chocolate mousse, whipped white chocolate flavoured with cinnamon, fig and port purée, and marshmallows made with port. “Whenever I go to Starbucks I just love a rocky road with my cup of tea. I love the difference in textures – it’s soft, chewy, crunchy – and the chocolatey and fruity flavours,” says Bateman. “I wanted all those flavours and contrasting textures in my dessert. I wanted a chilled element too, so I made a dark chocolate mousse, piped it and froze it, which was much safer in a competition than making an ice cream or sorbet.” Both Bateman’s winning starter and dessert now feature on the menu at Colette’s, and they’re already proving a real hit with customers. “We had some regulars who came in twice last week and, although it’s not advertised on the menu that these are my competition dishes, both times they ordered the oyster pannacotta and the rocky road dessert and they said they were two of the best dishes they had ever had,” says Bateman proudly. “I think that the competition has helped me as a cook in general because it’s made me focus on simplicity and flavour and not elaborateness. 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- 21. 40 | CHEF TALK “I think before, and certainly when you’re younger this tends to happen, I tried to impress people by doing too much on a plate, when really what this job is about is taking a prime ingredient and making the best of it but keeping it simple.” Working at The Grove, where Bateman has now been for five years (“the longest I’ve ever been in a job”), he certainly has easy access to some superb ingredients. The walled garden in the grounds of the hotel produces a bounty of fruits and vegetables for the kitchen, including “amazing summer berries and the most wonderful flavoured herbs I’ve ever tasted”. “It certainly helps that we pick them and eat them, whereas when you buy herbs from a supplier they’re probably two days old before you get them – freshness is key,” adds Bateman. That particular lesson – freshness is key – is one that was actually learnt very early on in Bateman’s life: his grandfather grew some of his own vegetables and a six-year-old Bateman remembers picking and eating runner beans, beetroot, radishes and tomatoes at their peak of freshness and flavour. Add to that the fact that his grandfather brewed his own ale and his grandmother baked all her own bread, and the seeds of his future career were already sewn. “I knew I wanted to be a chef from a very, very young age. Like any kid I went through my phases of wanting to be a footballer, racing car driver or boxer, but then I realised I had a passion for food and that I could earn a living from that,” recalls Bateman. “I was sent by my school on a work experience placement in a hotel kitchen and that was it, there was no chance I was doing anything else after those two weeks. “At a young age it was just awe inspiring: the skill, the love that people were putting into what they were doing – it was manual but it wasn’t laborious. The atmosphere in the kitchen was fantastic and there was a really great camaraderie. It just cemented for me what I wanted to do.” “ That’s absolutely true of Nico – he loves eating, he loves food. I already had that passion too, but it definitely grew during my time with Nico “ RUSSELL BATEMAN And still to this day Bateman can’t think of anything he’d rather be doing than working every day in his kitchen – apart, that is, from eating out in other chefs’ restaurants. “When you start earning a living as a chef you’re consumed by it, it’s everything. But I love eating out as well. “I think a lot of chefs don’t eat out, but it’s inspirational, it’s refreshing, it’s reinvigorating when you eat at someone else’s restaurant,” he enthuses. So has Bateman eaten any memorable meals lately? It’s not as easy now that he has an 18-month-old son, but he still tries to get out as much as possible. “Alyn Williams at The Westbury is a beautiful restaurant and he’s a fantastic chef and a really, really nice man – I used to work with him with Marcus Wareing. Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers is always fantastic – he’s a great guy and it’s a great place with a great vibe,” says Bateman. “However, I often end up going to my friends’ restaurants like Bubbledogs [in Fitzrovia] and The Artichoke [in Amersham].” And the importance for a chef of getting out of the kitchen and into the dining room is something else Bateman learned from one of his past employers. “Marco Pierre White once said about Nico Ladenis that he was the only true gastronome he knew, because he believed as much in eating as he believed in cooking,” says Bateman. “That’s absolutely true of Nico – he loves eating, he loves food. I already had that passion too, but it definitely grew during my time with Nico. “When you’re in the kitchen all the time it’s easy to forget what’s happening on the other side of the door, where it’s so much fun and people use a meal out to share a special occasion or to relax. “It’s important to get yourself out there and do what the guests are doing, and bring the joy back into your life.” Continued over ...