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PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER FEBRUARY 2011 ● GILLES BENSIMON ● TERENCE DONOVAN ● CHRIS CRAYMER ● LIGHTING TRICKS REVEALED ● BUSINESS SPECIAL




                                                                                                                                            Keira Knightley                           INSPIRING • INFORMATIVE • HONEST • ESSENTIAL
                                                                                                                                            by Gilles Bensimon
                                                                                                                                                                                                      FEBRUARY 2011 ONLY £3.99
                                                                                                                                                                                                       WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK




                                                                                                                                            IN THIS ISSUE:
                                                                                                                                            TERENCE DONOVAN
                                                                                                                                            REMEMBERED,
                                                                                                                                            REAL-LIFE
                                                                                                                                            PERSONAL
                                                                                                                                            PROJECTS,
                                                                                                                                            LIGHTING TRICKS
                                                                                                                                            REVEALED
                                                                                                                                            & BERT STERN
                                                                                                                                            PROFILED
                                                                                                                                            “If you want to be a different fish,
                                                                                                                                            you’ve got to jump out of the school.”
                                                                                                                                            Captain Beefheart




                                                                                                                                                                    LET’S GET DOWN
                                                                                                                                                                     TO BUSINESS
                                                                                                                                                            10-PAGE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO GETTING
                                                                                                                                                                      YOUR BUSINESS RIGHT
                                                                                                                                                              PLUS: HEAR DIRECT FROM THE BEST IN THE WORLD ON
                                                                                                                                                                  HOW TO SHOOT RIOTS, FASHION, STILL LIFE,
                                                                                                                                                                 PORTRAITS, FILMS & REPORTAGE AND SURVIVE
welcome
                                                                                                   february
                                                                              When we came to putting this issue together and deciding who we wanted to feature and why, a few names
                                                                              from my past came to me that I felt had perhaps been forgotten but that deserved to be revisited.
                                                                              Our industry has an unpleasant, insatiable thirst for the new, the young and the latest fashion, often at the expense of
                                                                              the great and the established. Bert Stern and Gilles Bensimon certainly fall into that category for me.
                                                                              If you’ve never heard of them, nor seen their work, I hope you find them interesting and inspiring. If you are aware of
                                                                              them but not heard from them for a while, I hope you enjoy reading about some old friends.
                                                                                On a similar theme, this month’s Being There on Page 23 allowed me the opportunity to talk about another great
                                                                              photographer and a friend, Terence Donovan. I hope that you
                                                                              enjoy these snapshots from my photographic past and
                                                                              that they give you an insight not only into my career but
                                            also into the business as a whole.
                                              If you have ever wanted to know what makes a good agent, how to get one
                                            and what they can do for you, then you could do no better than hear what
                                            one of the most established and best has to say. Find out all this and more on
                                            Page 45 in Frontline. Someone working without an agent but getting by
                                            (just!) is awardwinning photojournalist Peter Dench, our regular columnist
                                            and bon viveur. This month he not only brings us his monthly Dench Diary
                                            on Page 38 but he also goes back to college at our request to find out
                                            why he hasn’t been succeeding in the Taylor Wessing Awards recently.
                                            You can read what he discovered in Educating Peter on Page 72.
                                            While we were sending Peter to college, students were protesting on
                                            the streets and news photographers were trying to capture the action.
                                            We spoke to Eddie Mulholland, senior photographer with the
                                            Telegraph newspaper group, to find out how he manages to work
                                            among the civil unrest in I Predict a Riot on Page 62.
                                              One of the most unpleasant aspects of being a freelancer is the
                                            financial responsibility which you have to bear for your business.
                                            This is the time of year when we should all have submitted our
                                            tax returns and be ensuring that our paperwork is in order.
                                            To help you with this we have taken some of the most useful
                                            articles from our sister title Turning Pro to create an
THIS IMAGE / COVER IMAGE: GILLES BENSIMON




                                            all-in-one Business Special on Page 91. I hope you
                                            find it interesting and useful.
EDITOR’S IMAGE: MATT HALSTEAD




                                              Someone who has made a success out of his
                                            work as a still-life photographer for many years now
                                            is David Parfitt. Find out how he has remained
                                            inspired and creative in Motion Pictures on Page 84.
                                              It’s a tough business we’re involved in and the more help and advice
                                            you get can only help. We just make sure it’s the best.




                                            Grant Scott, Editor
NEW PHOTOGRAPHY
                8 Portfolio
                The best of our readers’ work.

                53 Exposure
                We take a glimpse at an online archive of great
                                                                              contents
                                                                                   february
                magazine covers that inspire us.

                72 Educating Peter
                Peter Dench finds out how today’s photography
                students are being prepared for the real world.


                NEED TO KNOW
                23 Being There
                PP Editor Grant Scott recalls a shoot with iconic
                1960s photographer Terence Donovan.

                30 Dispatches
                Clive Booth talks about a Scottish island that has
                inspired his photography for many years.

                38 The Dench Diary
                This month photojournalist Peter Dench takes to the
                skies on assignment in Africa.

                42 The World of Convergence
                Film maker John Campbell’s regular news-packed
                look at the world of convergence.

                45 Frontline
                We talk to photography agent Mark George.

                51 Guess the Lighting
                Ever seen a great image and wanted to know how it
                was lit? Ted Sabarese explains all.

                66 Bangers & Crash
                PP Editor Grant Scott recalls an early personal
                project centred around the world of banger racing.

                114 Legend
                We look at a living legend, Bert Stern, whose
                commercial images changed the advertising world.         Vision and determination have shaped Chris Craymer’s career. Read more in our interview on page 78.


                INTERVIEWS WITH...                                       84 Motion Pictures
                                                                         Photographer David Parfitt talks about the
                                                                                                                                   21 Diary
                                                                                                                                   Our pick of this month’s photographic exhibitions
                34 Watching the Wheels                                   inspiration behind his unique still-life images.          around the UK.
                We revisit the winner of our 2010 competition, who got
                a £5,000 budget to shoot the Land Rover Discovery 4.                                                               103 Stop Press...
                                                                         BUSINESS SPECIAL                                          The latest essential news, gossip and kit from the

                EXCLUSIVE...                                             92 Go Compare
                                                                         The world of photography insurance explained.
                                                                                                                                   pro world.


                54 Gilles Bensimon on the Phone
                Editor Grant Scott has a conversation with the           96 ...And Nothing but the Truth
                                                                                                                                   KEEP IN TOUCH
                legendary French fashion photographer who                Protecting your good name and business.                   26 Subscribe
                has created timeless images of some of the most                                                                    Check out our latest subscription offer so you’ll
                beautiful women in the world.                            98 Copy Cat                                               never miss an issue of your favourite photography
                                                                         How to protect the ownership of your images.              magazine again.
                62 I Predict a Riot
                Telegraph press photographer Eddie Mulholland                                                                      28 Podcast
                discusses shooting the recent student riots.             NEWS & REVIEWS                                            Every month we go online to discuss the world of
                                                                                                                                   photography and you can hear our debate for free.
CHRIS CRAYMER




                78 Make it Big                                           14 Click
                Julia Molony talks to Chris Craymer, whose vision        This month’s line-up of the best news, dreams,            49 Feedback
                and determination have carved a successful career.       themes and photographic schemes.                          Your thoughts, your opinions, your page.
                .
                                                                                                                                                 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 5
friends
                                                                                                                                                            february
WWW.CHRISTOPHERPETERSON.COM




                              Gilles Bensimon                                     Jod Mitchell                                                                    David Anthony Hall                                                                Guy Martin
                              Photographer                                        Journalist                                                                      Artist/photographer                                                               Lawyer
                              As the former international creative                Possibly unique among our writers                                               A former still-life photographer,                                                 Guy is a partner in leading media
                              director and head photographer of                   for having an alternative career as                                             David now revisits locations over                                                 law firm Carter-Ruck and belongs to
                              ELLE magazine, Gilles Bensimon                      a lavender farmer, Jod has also been                                            months and even years to capture                                                  the British Literary and Artistic
                              has a portfolio packed with images                  a BBC script editor, playwright and                                             them for his large-format images.                                                 Copyright Association (BLACA).
                              of supermodels and stars, and he is                 advertising executive. He now writes                                            As the winner of our competition to                                               With more than 20 years’ experience
                              celebrated for his sensual way of                   for the Telegraph, the Sun and                                                  get a £5,000 budget to shoot the                                                  in media law, he is well-placed to
                              capturing women. Formerly married                   House & Garden magazine. PP sent                                                Land Rover Discovery 4, David                                                     co-author the article on defamation
                              to Elle Macpherson, he has appeared                 him to interview still-life master                                              journeyed around the British Isles for                                            for this month’s Business Special.
                              on the TV show America’s Next Top                   David Parfitt, who creates stylish and                                          his Four Corners assignment. You can                                              His clients include high-ranking
                              Model. In an interview on page 54,                  arresting images using innovative                                               read about the shoot – which was a                                                dignitaries, leading business people,
                              editor Grant Scott talks to Gilles                  techniques. You can read the feature                                            huge contrast to the way he normally                                              universities, celebrities, religious
                              about his enviable career and hears                 on David and find out how                                                       works – in Eleanor O’Kane’s                                                       leaders, authors and publishers.
                              his thoughts on the industry today.                 he achieves his style on page 84.                                               interview with him on page 34.                                                    To read the article, turn to page 96.



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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 7
PORTFOLIO
Each month we share the best of the latest postings from our online portfolio with our magazine
readers, so for your chance to appear in Professional Photographer, go online and start uploading
your best images to www.professionalphotographer.co.uk. If you want to see more of any
photographer’s work, go to their online profile to access their website details.




                                                         TIFFANY IRVING,
                                                         UK


                                                         STAN PEACH,
                                                         UK




 PIOTR STRYJEWSKI,
 UK



8 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
INNIS McALLISTER,
UK
PORTFOLI




             RAYMENT KIRBY,
             UK




                                        BOURNE,
                                            UK



10 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
MARKUS VOETTER,
                                  IRELAND




                                            CHRISTOPHER
                                            WAUD, UK


                               ANDY FORD,
                               UK




                      REKHA
                     GARTON,
                         UK


JONATHAN CARVAJAL,
COLOMBIA




                                                          www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 11
PORTFOLI                                                    SASA HUZJAK,
                                                            SLOVENIA




                 REKHA GARTON,
                 UK


                                        DARRAN ARMSTRONG,
                                                      UK




                                           STEPHEN BOYLE,
                                                 IRELAND




                                                                           ANDY FORD,
                                                                                  UK



12 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
click
 Coastline No.2.
                                                                                                                              the latest
                                                                                                                              photographic news,
                                                                                                                              dreams, themes
                                                                                                                              and schemes.
                                                                                                                              edited by Eleanor O’Kane


                                                                                                                         Third time lucky
                                                                                                                         One of the 20 Bad Girls of Photography from our
                                                                                                                         November 2010 issue, Bettina Rheims shocked
                                                                                                                         religious groups by portraying Jesus as a woman
                                                                                                                         and shot portraits of a Russian oligarch’s wife that
                                                                                                                         border on the pornographic. Following limited and
                                                                                                                         art editions, which were priced at £1,250 and £650
                                                                                                                         respectively, publisher Taschen has released its
                                                                                                                         tribute to Rheims, Rose, c’est Paris, as an unlimited
                                                                                                                         edition at a more modest £44.99. Available from
                                                                                                                         February, the monograph is accompanied by a
                                                                                                                         feature-length film on DVD and tells a story that
                                                                                                                         weaves fashion, erotica and film noir in Rheims’s
                                                                                                                         signature sexy and stylish tableau
                                                                                                                         that features, among others,
                                                                                                                         Naomi Campbell, Charlotte
                                                                                                                         Rampling and Monica Bellucci.
                                                                                                                         Rose, c’est Paris, by Bettina
                                                                                                                         Rheims and Serge Bramly,
                                                                                                                         published by Taschen, £44.99,
                                                                                                                         ISBN: 978-8365-2785-9.
                                                                                                           ZHANG XIAO




Derby days                                                                                                               In the beginning
FORMAT, the Derby-based international festival of contemporary photography and related media,                            In photography it often seems that the discovery of
is back for its fifth year. With a theme for 2011 of Right Here Right Now: Exposures from the                            a box of long-forgotten plates or prints casts a new
Public Realm, the festival celebrates the resurgence of street photography with a host of events                         light on the work of an artist. Renowned as a
dedicated to candid photography. One of the highlights is the FORMAT11 Commission, from                                  pioneer of colour photography, William Eggleston
Magnum photographer Bruce Gilden, which will be exhibited in Derby Museum and Art Gallery.                               originally worked in black and white, photographing
For the commission, the American master turned his lens on Derby. Brooklyn-born Gilden                                   suburban scenes in Memphis in high-speed 35mm
once said: “I’m known for taking pictures very close, and the older I get, the closer I get.” As part                    film; compositions that would go on to inform
of the exhibition, a video of Gilden getting up close and personal while shooting in the town will                       his later work. The discovery of some of his early
be aired.                                                                                                                prints at the Eggleston Artistic Trust in Memphis
   The festival is not just limited to galleries. Large-scale works by seven leading Magnum                              has led to Before Color, a new book from Steidl
photographers, including Chris Steele-Perkins, Bruno Barbey and Trent Parke, will be on show                             that features work dating
alfresco in Derby Market Place. This outdoor show of                                                                     from 50 years ago,
street photography will be touring the UK once the                                                                       scanned from vintage
festival is over and you can also catch it at London                                                                     plates developed by the
St Pancras railway station later this year.                                                                              photographer in his own
FORMAT International Photography Festival 2011,                                                                          darkroom.
Right Here Right Now: Exposures from the Public                                                                          Before Color, by
                                                                                                        DOUGIE WALLACE




Realm, will take place from 4 March to 3 April in                                                                        William Eggleston,
various venues across Derby and beyond.                                                                                  published by Steidl, £40,
For more information visit www.formatfestival.com.            Blake 7.                                                   ISBN: 978-3-86930-122-8.

14 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
BETTINA RHEIMS , COURTESY GALERIE JÉRÔME DE NOIRMONT, PARIS




                                                              Monica Bellucci, Tenue de
                                                              Gala, Hotel Le Meurice, Rue de
                                                              Rivoli, Paris, February 2009 .
All about Eve
                                                                                                In a largely male-dominated
                                                                                                world, Eve Arnold stands out as
                                                                                                one of the finest photojournalists
                                                                                                of the 20th century and has
                                                                                                been a Magnum member for more
                                                                                                than 50 years. She has travelled
                                                                                                the globe for her work and is




                                                                                                                                   © EVE ARNOLD
                                                                                                famed for her images of Marilyn
                                                                                                Monroe, pictured right, with
                                                                                                whom she had a special rapport.
                                                                                                The first exhibition at the new Chris Beetles Fine Photographs
                                                                                                Gallery in London celebrates Arnold’s outstanding contribution
                                                                                                to photography with more than 70 images from the Magnum
                                                                                                master. More than a quarter of the exhibition dwells on
                                                                                                Arnold’s images of Monroe, who frequently requested that the
                                                                                                photographer shoot her portrait.
                                                                                                Eve Arnold, Chris Beetles Fine Photographs, 3-5 Swallow Street,
DEAN WEST




                                                                                                London, 9 February-5 March.
                                                                            The Cockpit.        www.chrisbeetlesfinephotographs.com


            Bewitched                                                                                      On your toes
            The winners of the 2010 International Aperture                                                 Opened in 1850, Bassano was once a fashionable
            Awards have been announced, with more than                                                     London photographic studio whose surviving
            $80,000 in cash and prizes shared between winners                                              archives are held by the National Portrait Gallery.
            in several categories, including photojournalism,                                              Now an exhibition at the gallery brings to public
            landscape and sport. The winner in the commercial,                                             view portraits of leading ballet dancers from the
            advertising & fashion category was Australian-born,                                            beginning of the 20th century, including Anna
            Canadian-based photographer Dean West, whose                                                   Pavlova and Ninette de Valois. The son of a
            image The Cockpit was shot in a former cockfighting                                            fishmonger, Alexander Bassano opened his first
            arena. Inspired by the 1985 film Return to Oz,                                                 studio at the age of 21 and went on to become
            27-year-old West had been waiting for the                                                      a Victorian society photographer. His portrait of
            opportunity to pay tribute to a character in the                                               Lord Kitchener was the foundation of the
            film, a witch named Mombi, and knew that                                                       famous First World War recruitment poster,
            the time had come when he chanced upon the perfect                                             Your Country Needs You.
                                                                  BASSANO




            location in Ontario.                                                             Ninette de    Ballet in Focus, at the National Portrait Gallery,
                                                                                           Valois, 1920.
            www.internationalapertureawards.com                                                            until 24 July, admission free. www.npg.org.uk




                                                                                                                          www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 17
Leaning to
                                                                                                                                       the left




                                                                                   INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE AND VINOODH MATADIN / NOWNESS
                                                                                                                                       First published in 1956,
                                                                                                                                       Love on the Left Bank
                                                                                                                                       provided a snapshot of the
                                                                                                                                       creative scene among
                                                                                                                                       Paris’s Left Bank artistic
                                                                                                                                       community during the early
                                                                                                                                       1950s and was considered
                                                                                                                                       a classic of its time.
                                                                                                                                       Now back in print, this
                                                                                                                                       facsimile edition features
                                                                                                                                       the work of Dutch
                                                                                                                                       photographer and film
                                                                                                                                       maker Ed van der Elsken,
Candid cameras                                                                                                                         who inhabited this offbeat
A new short film by fashion photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and                                                                    Parisian quartier when he
Vinoodh Matadin caught our eye. Featured on the lifestyle site NOWNESS,                                                                moved there in 1950 to further his photography. He took a job in
the film crosses the line from reality to a surreal world using illustrations by                                                       Magnum’s darkroom where he developed the prints of Robert Capa and
artist Jo Ratcliffe. Shot in secret by the pair using four hidden cameras on a                                                         is said to have impressed Henri Cartier-Bresson with his street
Balmain fashion house shoot featuring Kate Moss, the film also stars surreal                                                           photography. He went on to have a successful career in stills and film.
serpent-like creatures that creep up on Moss while she’s in repose and                                                                 Love on the Left Bank, by Ed van der Elsken, published by Dewi Lewis,
a soothing soundtrack by Antony and the Johnsons. www.nowness.com                                                                      £24, ISBN: 978-1-899235-22-3.




18 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
click
                                                                                                                      New views of
                                                                                                                      New York
                                                                                                                      For its first show of 2011, the
                                                                                                                      Wapping Project Bankside is
                                                                                                                      featuring striking images by




                                                             CINDY SHERMAN
                                                                                                                      German photographer
                                                                                                                      Christopher Thomas.
                                                                                                                      Shot using a custom-made
                                                                                                                      large format camera and
Who do you think you are?                                                                                             long exposures, the 30
                                                                                                                      large-scale pictures show
We chose New Yorker Cindy Sherman as one of our                                                                       a more tranquil, less frenetic
20 Bad Girls of Photography in the November 2010                                                                      side to New York. A vintage
issue for her uncompromising method of working, which                                                                 feel, coupled with famous
explores the idea of identity. An exhibition at London                                                                locations devoid of life, show
gallery Sprüth Magers presents new work by Sherman.                                                                   another aspect of the city
It is the way we’re used to seeing her – as the subject of                                                            that, it seems, does sleep
her own images – but this time these are displayed as                                                                 after all.
large photographic murals rather than framed prints.                                                                  New York Sleeps: Photographs
                                                                             CHRISTOPHER THOMAS




The theme this time is ageing American socialites and is                                                              by Christopher Thomas,
as challenging as ever.                                                                                               2001-2009, until 26 February,
                                                                                                  Radio City.
Cindy Sherman at Sprüth Magers London, until                                                                          www.thewappingproject
19 February. http://spruethmagers.com                                                                                 bankside.com




                                                                                                                www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 19
We have done the hard work for you and chosen the best photographic
                                                                   exhibitions on show this month. For a full list of exhibitions and events visit
                                                                   www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
                                                                                                                Masters of Photography
                                                                                                                Falmouth Art Gallery, Municipal Buildings, The Moor, Falmouth,
                                                                                                                Cornwall, TR11 2RT
                                                                                                                01326 313863; www.falmouthartgallery.com
                                                                                                                12 February to 2 April
                                                                                                                Falmouth Art Gallery presents an international photography
                                                                                                                exhibition, showing iconic images by photographers from many
                                                                                                                different eras, including Lee Miller, Eve Arnold, Linda
                                                                                                                McCartney, Fay Godwin, Jane Bown, Man Ray and Julia
                                                                                                                Margaret Cameron.
                                                                                                                   Compositions by contemporary masters of photography will
                                                                                                                also be shown, including work by Ian Stern (1947-1978).
                                                                                                                Falmouth Art Gallery was recommended to his family by
                                                                                                                Dr Robin Lenman, editor of The Oxford Companion to the
                                                                                                                Photograph, and they donated 32 fascinating and haunting
                                                                                                                black-and-white photographs.
                                                                                                                   The exhibition also includes work from a host of
OXANA MAZUR




                                                                                                                Cornwall-based photographers including Mark Webster, Vince
                                                                                                                Bevan, Oxana Mazur and Anthony Fagin.
                                                                    Emotion.


                                                                   Bran Symondson: The Best View of Heaven is From Hell
                                                                   Idea Generation Gallery, 11 Chance Street, Shoreditch, E2 7JB
                                                                   020 7749 6850; www.ideageneration.co.uk
                                                                   28 January to 20 February
                                                                   An insightful collection of images by Bran Symondson
                                                                   is going on display at Idea Generation. His images show
                                                                   the daily existence and ethos of the Afghan National
                                                                   Police (ANP) in the war against the Taliban.
                                                                   When Symondson, a serving British soldier, returned to
                                                                                                                             © BRAN SYMONDSON




                                                                   Afghanistan in 2010, he was able to capture a unique
                                                                   perspective on this current conflict. The ANP has been
                                                                   given the role of helping to bring Afghanistan together
                                                                   as a nation. Symondson’s images capture their
                                                                   remarkable and, until now, untold story. Sixty intimate portraits of the ANP will be on show while
                                                                   a programme of special events will run alongside the exhibition, including a tour of the gallery.



                                                                                                        Hoppé Portraits: Society, Studio and Street
                                                                                                        National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London, WC2H 0HE
                                                                                                        020 7306 0055; www.npg.org.co.uk
© 2010 CURATORIAL ASSISTANCE INC. / E.O. HOPPÉ ESTATE COLLECTION




                                                                                                        17 February to 30 May
                                                                                                        A major exhibition dedicated to photographer E O Hoppé will be held at
                                                                                                        the National Portrait Gallery this spring. The collection will, for the first
                                                                                                        time, bring together some of his Modernist portraits, as well as later
                                                                                                        documentary studies. Hoppé (1878-1972) was among the most
                                                                                                        important photographers of the early 20th century. One of the first
                                                                                                        celebrity photographers, he captured striking portraits of some of the
                                                                                                        most important people of his time. More than 80 of Hoppé’s celebrity
                                                                                                        portraits, taken mainly in the 1910s and 1920s, will feature in the
                                                                                                        exhibition, including those of George Bernard Shaw, King George V and
                                                                                                        early Modernist poet Ezra Pound. Going into the 1930s Hoppé turned
                                                                                                        increasingly away from celebrity and studio portraits to concentrate on
                                                                                                        the other end of the social spectrum with studies of British street life.
                                                                    Ezra Pound, 1918.                   A collection of 50 images from this time will also be on show.
THINGSHAVE
    CHANGED
When PP editor Grant Scott
was asked to commission a
photographer to shoot the
actress Kristin Scott Thomas as                      dusty faded sense to the whole place. There was       and that it was his portfolio images that proved
Jackie Kennedy he recognised                         no natural light and a claustrophobic feeling         him as a serious photographer.
                                                     about the small upstairs office where his faithful       Funnily enough I was talking recently to the
it as a chance to work with                          studio manager was based.                             photography agent, Mark George, who became
an icon of the 1960s and a                              The ground floor was the studio, narrow, the       Terry’s agent at this time, about the holiday snaps
                                                     width of a carriage in fact, but long enough for      and how great they were. He had had exactly the
family friend.                                       him to be able to shoot full length against a         same reaction to them and as Terry’s agent had
                                                     Colorama. However, the lighting equipment was         forced him to show them as his portfolio.
                         The world of                as old as the cameras he was still shooting with.        I believed in Terry and his work, despite the
                         professional                His large, cumbersome power packs and unwieldy        impasse over his portfolio and constant references
                         photography has             lights filled the space. Remnants from the 1960s,     to how his Robert Palmer video Addicted to Love,
                         always been made up         they still worked well but added to the feeling of    changed the world of cinema and wanted to give
                         of a small and              being in a particularly sad time warp. In a small     him a chance to bring his great photographic eye
                         interconnected series       alcove to the left of the studio, piled high in       back into a commissioned project. So when I was
                         of relationships, both      brown archive boxes stacked to the ceiling, were      asked to find a photographer to shoot the actress
                         personal and work           Terry’s holiday snaps, as he called them.             Kristin Scott Thomas as Jackie Kennedy, the
                         based. I cannot tell you    Beautiful images all in black and white and sepia,    1960s fashion icon, I instantly thought of Terry.
how many coincidences and mutual friendships         many of 6 x 7 prints taken on his holidays.           It seemed worth the risk. I thought he could bring
have occurred and been revealed over the years on    They showed him as the great photographer             his understanding of the era and photographic
shoots around the world. But I suppose that one      he was, but he wasn’t showing anybody these           reputation to the shoot. He was always asking,
of the strangest connections I ever had with the     pictures at the time.                                 “What are they bringing to the party?” when
photographic world came via my first wife,              Instead he was showing a box of laminated          discussing new young photographers, so I thought
whose father was Terence Donovan’s                   images of girls in lingerie getting out of cars       this would be the perfect opportunity for him to
photographic assistant throughout the 1960s.         (some of these are on the Donovan Archive             show what he could bring.
   Because of this relationship and the close        website today in a nudes portfolio and with              I talked him through the idea for the shoot and
proximity of Donovan’s mews studio to Vogue          hindsight feel a little too reminiscent of the work   he was up for it. We would shoot in the mews
House in Hanover Square, where I was working,        of Helmut Newton), alongside overly controlled        studio. Terry played it down, just another shoot,
we became friends. To some extent I also became      celebrity portraits. They were of a different time    but I felt that it could be more than that.
someone he could connect with who was in a           and had no relevance to the work being created at     The fashion editor compiled a wardrobe of
position to commission photographers during a        the time during the mid to late 1990s. He couldn’t    Jackie-Kennedy-inspired clothes and accessories
period when he was finding it hard to get work       understand why and despite my constant attempts       and we brought in hair and make-up people with
and relate to the changing landscape of              to explain that the images he should be showing       the right gravitas to work with Terry. He could
photography at which he had both excelled and        to get commissioned were his holiday snaps,           be abrupt and intimidating, and the shoot would
achieved wealth and fame. (The scene in the 1966     he continued to believe they were just for fun        be no place for beginners.
film Blow-Up when David Hemmings is driving
around London in an open-topped Bentley with
wads of cash was based directly on Donovan’s         “The ground floor was the studio, narrow, the width of a carriage in
behaviour at the time.)
   From the outside the mews was unidentifiable
                                                     fact, but long enough for him to be able to shoot full length against
as a photographic studio. It still retained the      a Colorama. However, the lighting equipment was as old as the
original double garage doors, and the internal
decoration was exactly as it was when he had first
                                                     cameras he was still shooting with. His large, cumbersome power
moved in during the early 1970s. There was a         packs and unwieldy lights filled the space.” Grant Scott
                                                                                                                       www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 23
Kristin Scott Thomas flew in from Paris, where
she lived with her surgeon husband, for the shoot.
                                                     “The day and the shoot had been a disaster. My gamble had not
She’s a serious actress and it was obvious from      paid off. The day had been filled with sadness for me, seeing a
the start that she would want a say in how she was
going to be photographed. Her first decision was     photographer and a friend I admired fail to understand how much
that she was not going to be dressed up as Jackie
Kennedy. She knew nothing of the theme for the
                                                     the industry had changed since his heyday.” Grant Scott
shoot and she was not happy. Communication
between the fashion editor, Kristin and her agent    editor could be in the studio space, but only if she   put up too much of an argument. I never worked
had obviously broken down somewhere and it was       stood hidden behind one of his monstrous light         with him again.
not a great start to the shoot. She did, however,    stands and remained quiet. The atmosphere on the          As I mentioned earlier Terry was taken on by
agree to be photographed in some of the outfits      shoot was now at rock bottom and nobody was            Mark George (previously agent to Richard
that had been supplied for her.                      enjoying themselves.                                   Avedon and still carrying out that role for Don
   Meanwhile, Terry had turned up at the shoot in       With Kristin in place in front of the Colorama      McCullin) and returned for a brief spell to classic
one of his trademark grey suits. He was a big        and everyone placated, Terry began to shoot and        portraiture shooting a Best of British Icons
man, a judo champion and smart dresser, but the      his assistant took the first Polaroid from him as he   portfolio for GQ magazine. Sadly, his career
suit he had chosen that day was as faded as the      passed Terry his special glasses for looking at        never recovered the energy and vibrancy that his
studio – baggy at the pockets and torn on the        Polaroids. These were large metal-sided jeweller’s     old mate Bailey had managed to sustain.
seam of his trousers. His assistant was the same     glasses that were held on his head by a wide           Terry took his own life in 1996, aged 60. He left
one he had used in the 1970s but had not worked      elastic band and which were usually used to see        behind millions of prints in tidy little boxes
with for some while. Everything felt as if the       the fine detail in precious gemstones. It was          all over his studio and his two houses. They were
cobwebs had just been dusted off. There was no       all part of the theatre of working with Terry but      his holiday snaps.
energy and my heart sank as Kristin came down        it just felt out of step with the times.                  I attended the memorial service held in
the stairs for the first shot.                          We raced through the shoot with little              St George’s Church just around the corner from
   Immediately Terry demanded the studio space       enthusiasm and said our farewells swiftly at the       both Vogue House and his old studio. It was
to be cleared of everyone except Kristin, himself    end of a very short day. The day and the shoot had     packed with photographers, fashion editors, art
and me. He didn’t want people hanging around or      been a disaster. My gamble had not paid off.           directors, family and friends, including Princess
getting in the way. This did not go down well with   The day had been filled with sadness for me,           Diana and Margaret Thatcher. His daughter Daisy,
the team, who were used to pampering and             seeing a photographer and a friend I admired fail      who went on to become a famous television
primping the subject throughout the shoot and        to understand how much the industry had                presenter, gave a speech that moved everyone to
having an input into how it was going. Terry was     changed since his heyday.                              tears. What a shame that he had not been able to
from a different time and he wasn’t going to            A few days later the prints from the shoot were     see that he wasn’t as forgotten by the industry as
change the way he worked for anybody.                delivered but they were unusable. It would not         he thought he had been. PP
To prevent the shoot falling apart completely I      have been fair to anybody involved to allow them
managed to get him to agree that the fashion         to appear. I explained this to Terry and he didn’t     www.terencedonovan.co.uk


  GO ONLINE FOR MORE EXCLUSIVE TALES FROM THE WORLD OF PHOTOGRAPHY, VISIT WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK




24 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
SUBSCRIBE
                                                                            GILLES
                                                                             BENSIMON
                                                                             ONTHEPHONE
                                                                             Gilles Bensimon has spent the past 40 years photographing some of the most beautiful
                                                                             women in the world in some of the world’s most beautiful locations, helped to define
                                                                             the visual identity of ELLE magazine, married and divorced Elle Macpherson and
                                                                             appeared on America’s Next Top Model TV show. PP Editor Grant Scott managed to
                                                                             catch him on the phone in Paris to find out more about his life, times and photography.

                                                                             Grant: Gilles, when I was art directing               business. Then I worked with a photographer for
                                                                             ELLE magazine, I always loved your work,              a very few months and then after that, very
                                                                             and your style of photography was                     strangely, I started to work for ELLE magazine.
                                                                             synonymous with the original French                   But from the beginning they didn’t really want me
                                                                             weekly version. How did you get involved              to do what I wanted to do.
                                                                             with them in the 1980s and start taking               Grant: Your photography at the time seemed
                                                                             those kinds of images?                                to be very ‘non-photographic’, very natural.
                                                                             Gilles: I must admit that when I was young I          Gilles: I’m happy you recognise that but at that
                                                                             never wanted to work. It’s every kid’s dream to       time people didn’t think what I was doing was
                                                                             become somebody, and I went to art school, then       trendy, you know. I was never obsessed with
                                                                             the army and when I got out I realised that I was     trends. I think that photography should be
                                                                             obliged to do something. I thought that a drug        timeless. It’s like cooking, you do not want too
                                                                             dealer was a good job but it had disadvantages.       many ingredients. People talk more about my
                                                                             I never did become a drug dealer, but when            work now than they did then.
                                                                                                                                   Grant: You were shooting a lot of images on




                                                                                                                                                                                       GILLES BENSIMON
                                                                             a friend was trying it out as a business, I said to
                                                                             him that it seemed like a good job for me. He said
                                                                             he didn’t think so. So I tried to become some
                                                                             sort of artist, because my family were in the art     Singer and actress Jennifer Lopez.


                                                                             56 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk




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THIS MONTH’S PODCAST                                          Photographic Portrait Prize and whether there is                the PP’s support group, the United States of
February Issue                                                such a thing as a formula for winning.                          Photography, which was launched in the
THE BUSINESS SPECIAL                                                                                                          September issue. They talk about the origins of
The regular podcast team talk tax, finance and                November Issue                                                  the USP, which was a response to an article on
marketing to coincide with the business special               SEXY OR SEXIST?                                                 the loneliness of being a freelance photographer,
in the February issue. They look at whether                   Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench                     report on its reception among pro photographers,
possessing business and photography skills go                 discuss why some images are seen as sexy while                  and examine its aims. The team also asks if
hand in hand, discuss potential areas where                   others are labelled sexist.                                     photographers are becoming increasingly
seeking professional advice could reap rewards                                                                                isolated in a digital age and why support groups
and ask if current photography students are                   October Issue                                                   are more important than ever.
aware of the importance of business skills when               THE SECRETS OF BEING A PRO
choosing a career as a professional photographer.             This month Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and                      August Issue
                                                              Peter Dench discuss the secrets of professional                 THE BAD BOYS OF PHOTOGRAPHY
AND THOSE YOU MAY HAVE MISSED…                                photography. Veteran pros Grant and Peter relate                The 25 Bad Boys of Photography list in the
January Issue                                                 their experiences of working alongside other                    August issue is discussed by Grant Scott,
ICONS OF PHOTOGRAPHY                                          photographers and how these have influenced                     Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench. The debate
PP Editor Grant Scott and deputy editor Eleanor               their working practices. With the days of the                   centres on the diverse lives of the photographers
O’Kane are joined by regular columnist                        communal darkroom and lab long gone, the                        in the final list, including Guy Bourdin, David
and photojournalist Peter Dench to discuss the                opportunity to share news and advice in person                  Bailey, Helmut Newton, David Hockney and
importance of learning from the masters,                      has disappeared. The team also discusses how                    Wolfgang Tillmans. All 25 have broken the rules
the point at which a photographer becomes an                  photographers are sharing information in the                    in one way or another. The podcast team looks
icon and their own personal favourites.                       digital age and looks at new ways of networking,                at whether being a ‘bad boy’ is merely a facade
                                                              including the PP’s United States of Photography.                for some photographers.
December Issue
PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITIONS                                     September Issue                                                   You can subscribe for free and download the
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28 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
dispatches        Clive Booth           tales from the frontline of professional photography
                                         It’s the first official working day of 2011 and          favourite, and inspired me to take a closer look
                                         I’m in the midst of organising new shoots;               at my home county and get out and shoot
                                         stills and video, professional and personal.             landscapes, which I do with a passion to this day.
                                         This year I really want to do more with both still       And yet it was hearing Paul discussing his
                                         imagery and DSLR video. Professionally, there’s          new work, Corridor of Uncertainty, that really
                                         half a dozen projects in the pipeline, but it’s the      gripped me.
                                         personal ones that have been occupying my mind              ‘Bereavement, for me, is being between two
                                         for the majority of a flu-filled Christmas and New       states: what has been and what may take place in
                                         Year. Personal projects are often what define us –       the future. The work that I have made mirrors
                                         our interests, style, opinion – and it is so often the   this interstice. I was greatly affected by the deaths
                                         case that clients are drawn to us having seen our        of my parents and close friends, but the death

This month:                              personal work. Sometimes we are lucky enough
                                         to be so busy that there is very little room for
                                         such projects.
                                                                                                  of a spouse is overwhelmingly different. I had no
                                                                                                  map, as I had obviously never been here before.
                                                                                                  To pick up a camera is not the normal thing
Clive looks at the impact                   Yet if we choose correctly, they should burn          to do when confronted by a family tragedy, even if
                                         like a fire within us; sometimes an ember,               you are a photographer like me. But it was
and effect of a personal                 sometimes a blaze and sometimes a raging                 surprisingly the most natural thing for me to do.  ’
                                         inferno. I was struck by a comment made at                  I sat there transfixed listening to Paul talk
project and explains                     Canon Pro Photo Solutions 2010 in an interview           about how he had felt at the time of shooting this

how one particular place                 by this magazine with Zed Nelson, when he made
                                         a point about how much more interesting it is to
                                                                                                  set of pictures. This touched me in a way that I
                                                                                                  will never forget, and reopened my eyes to the
and its inhabitants never                see a photographer’s personal work.
                                            I had recently been to a lecture by Paul Hill.
                                                                                                  power of the still image. It seems to me that in
                                                                                                  times of deep despair and pain, as creatives we
cease to inspire him.                    He has given a great deal to photography and
                                         taught many big-name photographers in his long
                                                                                                  are often drawn to somehow search for an
                                                                                                  explanation, understanding or acceptance through
                                         career. His book, White Peak, Dark Peak – a              the medium in which we feel most comfortable;
                                         series of black-and-white landscapes taken in the        whether it be paint, the written word or, in
                                         Peak District National Park – is a personal              Paul’s case, photography.
                                                                                                     For the majority of the time I am shooting
                                                                                                  fashion, beauty and portrait – both stills and now
                                                                                                  increasingly DSLR video. I love what I do and
                                                                                                  wouldn’t change a thing. Yet there is a yearning
                                                                                                  deep down to extend myself, to use the skills that
                                                                                                  I have worked so hard to perfect and refine and
                                                                                                  channel them into meaningful, personal project
                                                                                                  work. I have a number of ideas that I want to
                                                                                                  explore this year, and yet this must be balanced
                                                                                                  with making a living. Of course, motivation is at
                                                                                                  the heart of all we do, so whatever project I
                                                                                                  choose it must be interesting, involving and come
                                                                                                  from the heart. Committing oneself to an idea is
                                                                                                  just as important, and once chosen we are then
                                                                                                  able to focus. As I said, there are several
                                                                                                  possibilities on the table. But one stands out
                                                                                                  above all, and whatever I choose to do this year,



                                                                                                  Left: Creel fisherman Alec ‘Nazza’ Campbell.
                                                                                                                                                          CLIVE BOOTH




                                                                                                  Opposite page: Photographed as he opened the door in
                                                                                                  November, Callum Anderson, the first commercial
                                                                                                  ships captain to sail into communist China.


30 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
“Nearly 20 years ago I made a filming trip that quite literally changed
                                  my life, and it was the place and the people that have become a
                                                           major part of my life ever since.” Clive Booth




this place and its people will somehow be a part    shoots on Hoy, in the Orkney Islands, and on the     isles, shooting from the top of yachts’ masts,
of it.                                              Eiger in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland for BBC     off the sides of lifeboats and from the water
   Nearly 20 years ago I made a filming trip that   Television. This budding film career may have        around the nets of local fishing boats. All the
quite literally changed my life, and it was the     even blossomed into a profession had there been      shoots back then left a huge impression on me,
place and the people that have become a major       the technology we have today. But alas, compact      and yet it was this one shoot on a little Scottish
part of my life ever since. Back then I was         video was used only when a Betacam (the              island that sowed the seed for a lifelong love
shooting film stills and compact professional       professional standard of the time) could not         affair with both the place and its people. If life is
video (Hi8 and S-VHS). My shooting was              be carried into hostile or inaccessible areas.       about experience then this one trip opened my
semi-professional, as was I. For more than a        As exciting as climbing on to icebergs, filming      eyes to the possibilities that travelling, places and
decade I remained a graphic designer, even          polar bears or scaling mountains was for me,         people can offer to all of us, at any age. I knew as
though I had already spent two months in            it was a surprise trip to Scotland that was to       we waved goodbye to this magical place and its
Spitsbergen – a group of small islands in the       change everything.                                   friendly, solid, kind and mischievous people, that
Norwegian Sea, north of Norway – where I               In September 1994 I first set foot on the Inner   I had found another home. In fact, to this day I
was shooting a documentary of a scientific,         Hebridean island of Islay. I was there to            know more people on Islay than in the town
environmental, research expedition. I also had      support a film crew sailing around the Hebridean     where I live, and Islay feels very much like a

                                                                                                                     www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 31
dispatches




second home. Islay (pronounced ‘eye-la’) is
known as the Queen of the Hebrides. It is the
southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides. It lies
in Argyll just west of Jura and around 25 miles
north of the Irish coast and Rathlin Island. It has
just over 3,000 inhabitants, a third of whom still
speak Gaelic. With a total area of almost 239
square miles, its main industries are malt whisky
distilling and tourism based largely on whisky
and birdwatching. Needless to say, the place and
its people have had a profound effect upon me.
The best way to explain this is simple – go there!     “Quite simply, Harold and                             move down the list of possible personal projects,
                                                                                                             Islay and its people appears, and will remain,
In the meantime, to get a feel for the island wit
and atmosphere, there are few better examples
                                                       his wife Margaret are the                             near the top. But it’s what I do with this
                                                                                                             association and unique connection that is
than the 1954 British comedy film The Maggie;
the story of a clash of cultures between a
                                                       reason I have this bond                               the biggest challenge.
                                                                                                                Will it be master distiller Jim McEwen,
hard-driving American businessman and a wily
Islay steamboat captain.
                                                       with the place and its                                creating vatted malts and talking with tears in his
                                                                                                             eyes of Islay and its people, both past and present,
   Islay is a community unlike any other I have        people. An unlikely                                   with an unrivalled passion and emotion earned
ever encountered. People rely upon each other in                                                             from nearly half a century of experience within
a way that we have, for the most part, lost or         friendship, fisherman and                             the whisky industry? Or the gentle and kind creel
forgotten in mainland Britain. Over the past 16
years I have forged great friendships and shared       photographer, separated                               fisherman, Alec Campbell, known affectionately
                                                                                                             as ‘Nazza’, hauling off the south side of Islay and
in some of the happiest and saddest of times.
Indeed, it was Islay that played a significant part
                                                       by 400 miles, and yet we                              catching bait off the back of the boat, only to give
                                                                                                             it all to the rather large and ever-hungry grey seal
in me turning professional; shooting three charity
sailing expeditions in 2003, 2005 and 2007.
                                                       speak nearly every week;                              named by the locals as Rupert? (Nazza once fed
                                                                                                             him 40 large mackerel, just to see exactly how
Many of the islanders turned out to support us as
we rowed and sailed Irish skiffs alongside a
                                                       usually me from the car                               many fish he could eat at a single sitting.) Will it
                                                                                                             be retired policeman Ian Smith, walking his dog
flotilla of fishing boats from island to island, and   and Harold from the boat.”                            Ben and then teaching me how to sing traditional
even across the channel to Portrush, picking up                                                              Scottish anthems back at his flat? Or Jim
whisky from some of the world’s finest distilleries
                                                       Clive Booth                                           McFarlane, fisherman and historian, regaling me
and then blending and bottling it for auction.                                                               with the local fishing history and attempting to
   If I could pin down my long association with        many Ileachs. On first impression he is laid back,    teach me Gaelic over several drams in his front
Islay, and the key that has unlocked the door to       disarming, charming and yet, underneath, there is     living room, overlooking Port Ellen harbour?
this second home, it would be in the form of one       a strength of character, depth and a fierce pride     Or Kevin ‘Cloudy’ Campbell, Lagavulin distillery
of my closest friends, scallop fisherman,              of place that I can only assume comes from a          man and charity fundraiser, playing England
coastguard station officer and submarine liaison,      lifetime at sea and living on an island. Wit and      versus Scotland pool tournaments in his shed,
Harold Hastie. Quite simply, Harold and his wife       humour are at the very centre of the people, and it   or peat cutting at father-in-law Alan
Margaret are the reason I have this bond with the      comes quick and often. It’s a humour that is hard     MacDougall’s croft. Or Duncan McGillivray,
place and its people. An unlikely friendship,          to explain in words, but must be experienced          distillery manager, indulging his passion for
fisherman and photographer, separated by               through the soft Islay lilt and in the twinkle of
400 miles, and yet we speak nearly every week;         the eyes. I suppose it’s obvious, but nevertheless
usually me from the car and Harold from the            worth mentioning, that as photographers and
                                                                                                             Above left to right: Rupert the grey seal; 4.30 on a July
                                                                                                                                                                         CLIVE BOOTH




boat. Many of the residents of Islay have              film makers we cover subjects that are close to
                                                                                                             morning; Retired policeman Ian Smith admires the view
nicknames. Harold’s is ‘Kamikaze’. Need I say          us and generate opportunities from our personal       over Port Ellen harbour while enjoying a glass of
more? Well yes actually, because Harold is like        connections with people and places. And as I          Lagavulin; John Martin, charity sailor and oarsman.


32 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
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Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
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Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02
Professional photographer uk   2011-02

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  • 1. PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER FEBRUARY 2011 ● GILLES BENSIMON ● TERENCE DONOVAN ● CHRIS CRAYMER ● LIGHTING TRICKS REVEALED ● BUSINESS SPECIAL Keira Knightley INSPIRING • INFORMATIVE • HONEST • ESSENTIAL by Gilles Bensimon FEBRUARY 2011 ONLY £3.99 WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK IN THIS ISSUE: TERENCE DONOVAN REMEMBERED, REAL-LIFE PERSONAL PROJECTS, LIGHTING TRICKS REVEALED & BERT STERN PROFILED “If you want to be a different fish, you’ve got to jump out of the school.” Captain Beefheart LET’S GET DOWN TO BUSINESS 10-PAGE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO GETTING YOUR BUSINESS RIGHT PLUS: HEAR DIRECT FROM THE BEST IN THE WORLD ON HOW TO SHOOT RIOTS, FASHION, STILL LIFE, PORTRAITS, FILMS & REPORTAGE AND SURVIVE
  • 2.
  • 3. welcome february When we came to putting this issue together and deciding who we wanted to feature and why, a few names from my past came to me that I felt had perhaps been forgotten but that deserved to be revisited. Our industry has an unpleasant, insatiable thirst for the new, the young and the latest fashion, often at the expense of the great and the established. Bert Stern and Gilles Bensimon certainly fall into that category for me. If you’ve never heard of them, nor seen their work, I hope you find them interesting and inspiring. If you are aware of them but not heard from them for a while, I hope you enjoy reading about some old friends. On a similar theme, this month’s Being There on Page 23 allowed me the opportunity to talk about another great photographer and a friend, Terence Donovan. I hope that you enjoy these snapshots from my photographic past and that they give you an insight not only into my career but also into the business as a whole. If you have ever wanted to know what makes a good agent, how to get one and what they can do for you, then you could do no better than hear what one of the most established and best has to say. Find out all this and more on Page 45 in Frontline. Someone working without an agent but getting by (just!) is awardwinning photojournalist Peter Dench, our regular columnist and bon viveur. This month he not only brings us his monthly Dench Diary on Page 38 but he also goes back to college at our request to find out why he hasn’t been succeeding in the Taylor Wessing Awards recently. You can read what he discovered in Educating Peter on Page 72. While we were sending Peter to college, students were protesting on the streets and news photographers were trying to capture the action. We spoke to Eddie Mulholland, senior photographer with the Telegraph newspaper group, to find out how he manages to work among the civil unrest in I Predict a Riot on Page 62. One of the most unpleasant aspects of being a freelancer is the financial responsibility which you have to bear for your business. This is the time of year when we should all have submitted our tax returns and be ensuring that our paperwork is in order. To help you with this we have taken some of the most useful articles from our sister title Turning Pro to create an THIS IMAGE / COVER IMAGE: GILLES BENSIMON all-in-one Business Special on Page 91. I hope you find it interesting and useful. EDITOR’S IMAGE: MATT HALSTEAD Someone who has made a success out of his work as a still-life photographer for many years now is David Parfitt. Find out how he has remained inspired and creative in Motion Pictures on Page 84. It’s a tough business we’re involved in and the more help and advice you get can only help. We just make sure it’s the best. Grant Scott, Editor
  • 4.
  • 5. NEW PHOTOGRAPHY 8 Portfolio The best of our readers’ work. 53 Exposure We take a glimpse at an online archive of great contents february magazine covers that inspire us. 72 Educating Peter Peter Dench finds out how today’s photography students are being prepared for the real world. NEED TO KNOW 23 Being There PP Editor Grant Scott recalls a shoot with iconic 1960s photographer Terence Donovan. 30 Dispatches Clive Booth talks about a Scottish island that has inspired his photography for many years. 38 The Dench Diary This month photojournalist Peter Dench takes to the skies on assignment in Africa. 42 The World of Convergence Film maker John Campbell’s regular news-packed look at the world of convergence. 45 Frontline We talk to photography agent Mark George. 51 Guess the Lighting Ever seen a great image and wanted to know how it was lit? Ted Sabarese explains all. 66 Bangers & Crash PP Editor Grant Scott recalls an early personal project centred around the world of banger racing. 114 Legend We look at a living legend, Bert Stern, whose commercial images changed the advertising world. Vision and determination have shaped Chris Craymer’s career. Read more in our interview on page 78. INTERVIEWS WITH... 84 Motion Pictures Photographer David Parfitt talks about the 21 Diary Our pick of this month’s photographic exhibitions 34 Watching the Wheels inspiration behind his unique still-life images. around the UK. We revisit the winner of our 2010 competition, who got a £5,000 budget to shoot the Land Rover Discovery 4. 103 Stop Press... BUSINESS SPECIAL The latest essential news, gossip and kit from the EXCLUSIVE... 92 Go Compare The world of photography insurance explained. pro world. 54 Gilles Bensimon on the Phone Editor Grant Scott has a conversation with the 96 ...And Nothing but the Truth KEEP IN TOUCH legendary French fashion photographer who Protecting your good name and business. 26 Subscribe has created timeless images of some of the most Check out our latest subscription offer so you’ll beautiful women in the world. 98 Copy Cat never miss an issue of your favourite photography How to protect the ownership of your images. magazine again. 62 I Predict a Riot Telegraph press photographer Eddie Mulholland 28 Podcast discusses shooting the recent student riots. NEWS & REVIEWS Every month we go online to discuss the world of photography and you can hear our debate for free. CHRIS CRAYMER 78 Make it Big 14 Click Julia Molony talks to Chris Craymer, whose vision This month’s line-up of the best news, dreams, 49 Feedback and determination have carved a successful career. themes and photographic schemes. Your thoughts, your opinions, your page. . www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 5
  • 6.
  • 7. friends february WWW.CHRISTOPHERPETERSON.COM Gilles Bensimon Jod Mitchell David Anthony Hall Guy Martin Photographer Journalist Artist/photographer Lawyer As the former international creative Possibly unique among our writers A former still-life photographer, Guy is a partner in leading media director and head photographer of for having an alternative career as David now revisits locations over law firm Carter-Ruck and belongs to ELLE magazine, Gilles Bensimon a lavender farmer, Jod has also been months and even years to capture the British Literary and Artistic has a portfolio packed with images a BBC script editor, playwright and them for his large-format images. Copyright Association (BLACA). of supermodels and stars, and he is advertising executive. He now writes As the winner of our competition to With more than 20 years’ experience celebrated for his sensual way of for the Telegraph, the Sun and get a £5,000 budget to shoot the in media law, he is well-placed to capturing women. Formerly married House & Garden magazine. PP sent Land Rover Discovery 4, David co-author the article on defamation to Elle Macpherson, he has appeared him to interview still-life master journeyed around the British Isles for for this month’s Business Special. on the TV show America’s Next Top David Parfitt, who creates stylish and his Four Corners assignment. You can His clients include high-ranking Model. In an interview on page 54, arresting images using innovative read about the shoot – which was a dignitaries, leading business people, editor Grant Scott talks to Gilles techniques. You can read the feature huge contrast to the way he normally universities, celebrities, religious about his enviable career and hears on David and find out how works – in Eleanor O’Kane’s leaders, authors and publishers. his thoughts on the industry today. he achieves his style on page 84. interview with him on page 34. To read the article, turn to page 96. GROUP BRAND EDITOR Grant Scott ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Eleanor Godwin SUBSCRIPTIONS/BACK ISSUES grant.scott@archant.co.uk eleanor.godwin@archant.co.uk, 01242 211092 CUSTOMER CARE 01858 438832 DEPUTY EDITOR Eleanor O’Kane DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER Nicola Crosta ORDER HOTLINE 01858 438840 Professional Photographer is published eleanor.okane@archant.co.uk nicola.crosta@archant.co.uk, 01242 264785 VISIT www.subscriptionsave.co.uk monthly by Archant Specialist. ART EDITOR Rebecca Shaw SALES EXECUTIVE Leigh Barr EMAIL professionalphotographer@subscription.co.uk Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, rebecca.shaw@archant.co.uk leigh.barr@archant.co.uk, 01242 265895 HEAD OF DIRECT CUSTOMER MARKETING Gloucestershire GL50 1BB MANAGING EDITOR Simon Reynolds SALES EXECUTIVE Amy Pope Fiona Penton-Voak www.professionalphotographer.co.uk simon.reynolds@archant.co.uk amy.pope@archant.co.uk, 01242 216054 SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING EXECUTIVE Twitter: @prophotomag FEATURES ASSISTANT Kelly Weech CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Bianca Dufty Lisa Flint-Elkins lisa.flint-elkins@archant.co.uk, kelly.weech@archant.co.uk bianca.dufty@archant.co.uk, 01242 211099 01242 264751 EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jessica Lamb GROUP COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER MD SPECIALIST MAGAZINES Miller Hogg jessica.lamb@archant.co.uk Lucy Warren-Meeks, 01242 264783 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS lucy.warren-meeks@archant.co.uk WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DISTRIBUTION London: Suzanne Hodgart, Geoff Waring PRODUCTION MANAGER Susan Bozzard If you have difficulty obtaining Professional Photographer, New York: Jake Chessum, REPROGRAPHICS MANAGER Neil Puttnam contact Seymour, 86 Newman Street, London W1T 3EX Printed by William Gibbons Phyllis Giarnese, David Eustace With special thanks to Mandy Pellatt TELEPHONE 020 7396 8000 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk feedback@professionalphotographer.co.uk 01242 264767 © Archant Specialist. Archant Specialist is part of Archant Ltd. I While reasonable care is taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Professional Photographer, that information is obtained from a variety of sources and neither the publisher, the printers nor any distributor is responsible for errors or omissions. All prices and data are accepted by us in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Pound conversion rates correct at the time of going to press. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Professional Photographer only upon Archant Specialist’s standard Terms of Acceptance of Advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. All advertisements of which the content is in whole or in part the work of Archant Specialist remain the copyright of Archant Specialist. Reproduction in whole or in part of any matter appearing in Professional Photographer is forbidden except by express permission of the publisher. Competition terms and conditions: I The closing date for competitions/giveaways is displayed alongside the competition/giveaway online. I Employees of Archant Specialist, and those professionally connected with the competition/ giveaway, for example, employees of the sponsor company, are not eligible to enter. I Unless otherwise stated, competitions/giveaways are only open to UK residents. I Prizes are as described and no alternatives can be offered. ABC certified circulation I The editor’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. I Archant Specialist may wish to contact you in the future, or pass your details to selected third parties, to introduce new products and services to you. (Jan-Dec 2009): 11,816. If you are sending your entry by text and do not wish to be contacted, please add the word ‘NO’ to the end of your text message. If you are sending your entry by post, please tick the appropriate boxes on the entry form. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 7
  • 8. PORTFOLIO Each month we share the best of the latest postings from our online portfolio with our magazine readers, so for your chance to appear in Professional Photographer, go online and start uploading your best images to www.professionalphotographer.co.uk. If you want to see more of any photographer’s work, go to their online profile to access their website details. TIFFANY IRVING, UK STAN PEACH, UK PIOTR STRYJEWSKI, UK 8 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 10. PORTFOLI RAYMENT KIRBY, UK BOURNE, UK 10 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 11. MARKUS VOETTER, IRELAND CHRISTOPHER WAUD, UK ANDY FORD, UK REKHA GARTON, UK JONATHAN CARVAJAL, COLOMBIA www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 11
  • 12. PORTFOLI SASA HUZJAK, SLOVENIA REKHA GARTON, UK DARRAN ARMSTRONG, UK STEPHEN BOYLE, IRELAND ANDY FORD, UK 12 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 13.
  • 14. click Coastline No.2. the latest photographic news, dreams, themes and schemes. edited by Eleanor O’Kane Third time lucky One of the 20 Bad Girls of Photography from our November 2010 issue, Bettina Rheims shocked religious groups by portraying Jesus as a woman and shot portraits of a Russian oligarch’s wife that border on the pornographic. Following limited and art editions, which were priced at £1,250 and £650 respectively, publisher Taschen has released its tribute to Rheims, Rose, c’est Paris, as an unlimited edition at a more modest £44.99. Available from February, the monograph is accompanied by a feature-length film on DVD and tells a story that weaves fashion, erotica and film noir in Rheims’s signature sexy and stylish tableau that features, among others, Naomi Campbell, Charlotte Rampling and Monica Bellucci. Rose, c’est Paris, by Bettina Rheims and Serge Bramly, published by Taschen, £44.99, ISBN: 978-8365-2785-9. ZHANG XIAO Derby days In the beginning FORMAT, the Derby-based international festival of contemporary photography and related media, In photography it often seems that the discovery of is back for its fifth year. With a theme for 2011 of Right Here Right Now: Exposures from the a box of long-forgotten plates or prints casts a new Public Realm, the festival celebrates the resurgence of street photography with a host of events light on the work of an artist. Renowned as a dedicated to candid photography. One of the highlights is the FORMAT11 Commission, from pioneer of colour photography, William Eggleston Magnum photographer Bruce Gilden, which will be exhibited in Derby Museum and Art Gallery. originally worked in black and white, photographing For the commission, the American master turned his lens on Derby. Brooklyn-born Gilden suburban scenes in Memphis in high-speed 35mm once said: “I’m known for taking pictures very close, and the older I get, the closer I get.” As part film; compositions that would go on to inform of the exhibition, a video of Gilden getting up close and personal while shooting in the town will his later work. The discovery of some of his early be aired. prints at the Eggleston Artistic Trust in Memphis The festival is not just limited to galleries. Large-scale works by seven leading Magnum has led to Before Color, a new book from Steidl photographers, including Chris Steele-Perkins, Bruno Barbey and Trent Parke, will be on show that features work dating alfresco in Derby Market Place. This outdoor show of from 50 years ago, street photography will be touring the UK once the scanned from vintage festival is over and you can also catch it at London plates developed by the St Pancras railway station later this year. photographer in his own FORMAT International Photography Festival 2011, darkroom. Right Here Right Now: Exposures from the Public Before Color, by DOUGIE WALLACE Realm, will take place from 4 March to 3 April in William Eggleston, various venues across Derby and beyond. published by Steidl, £40, For more information visit www.formatfestival.com. Blake 7. ISBN: 978-3-86930-122-8. 14 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 15. BETTINA RHEIMS , COURTESY GALERIE JÉRÔME DE NOIRMONT, PARIS Monica Bellucci, Tenue de Gala, Hotel Le Meurice, Rue de Rivoli, Paris, February 2009 .
  • 16.
  • 17. All about Eve In a largely male-dominated world, Eve Arnold stands out as one of the finest photojournalists of the 20th century and has been a Magnum member for more than 50 years. She has travelled the globe for her work and is © EVE ARNOLD famed for her images of Marilyn Monroe, pictured right, with whom she had a special rapport. The first exhibition at the new Chris Beetles Fine Photographs Gallery in London celebrates Arnold’s outstanding contribution to photography with more than 70 images from the Magnum master. More than a quarter of the exhibition dwells on Arnold’s images of Monroe, who frequently requested that the photographer shoot her portrait. Eve Arnold, Chris Beetles Fine Photographs, 3-5 Swallow Street, DEAN WEST London, 9 February-5 March. The Cockpit. www.chrisbeetlesfinephotographs.com Bewitched On your toes The winners of the 2010 International Aperture Opened in 1850, Bassano was once a fashionable Awards have been announced, with more than London photographic studio whose surviving $80,000 in cash and prizes shared between winners archives are held by the National Portrait Gallery. in several categories, including photojournalism, Now an exhibition at the gallery brings to public landscape and sport. The winner in the commercial, view portraits of leading ballet dancers from the advertising & fashion category was Australian-born, beginning of the 20th century, including Anna Canadian-based photographer Dean West, whose Pavlova and Ninette de Valois. The son of a image The Cockpit was shot in a former cockfighting fishmonger, Alexander Bassano opened his first arena. Inspired by the 1985 film Return to Oz, studio at the age of 21 and went on to become 27-year-old West had been waiting for the a Victorian society photographer. His portrait of opportunity to pay tribute to a character in the Lord Kitchener was the foundation of the film, a witch named Mombi, and knew that famous First World War recruitment poster, the time had come when he chanced upon the perfect Your Country Needs You. BASSANO location in Ontario. Ninette de Ballet in Focus, at the National Portrait Gallery, Valois, 1920. www.internationalapertureawards.com until 24 July, admission free. www.npg.org.uk www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 17
  • 18. Leaning to the left INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE AND VINOODH MATADIN / NOWNESS First published in 1956, Love on the Left Bank provided a snapshot of the creative scene among Paris’s Left Bank artistic community during the early 1950s and was considered a classic of its time. Now back in print, this facsimile edition features the work of Dutch photographer and film maker Ed van der Elsken, Candid cameras who inhabited this offbeat A new short film by fashion photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Parisian quartier when he Vinoodh Matadin caught our eye. Featured on the lifestyle site NOWNESS, moved there in 1950 to further his photography. He took a job in the film crosses the line from reality to a surreal world using illustrations by Magnum’s darkroom where he developed the prints of Robert Capa and artist Jo Ratcliffe. Shot in secret by the pair using four hidden cameras on a is said to have impressed Henri Cartier-Bresson with his street Balmain fashion house shoot featuring Kate Moss, the film also stars surreal photography. He went on to have a successful career in stills and film. serpent-like creatures that creep up on Moss while she’s in repose and Love on the Left Bank, by Ed van der Elsken, published by Dewi Lewis, a soothing soundtrack by Antony and the Johnsons. www.nowness.com £24, ISBN: 978-1-899235-22-3. 18 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 19. click New views of New York For its first show of 2011, the Wapping Project Bankside is featuring striking images by CINDY SHERMAN German photographer Christopher Thomas. Shot using a custom-made large format camera and Who do you think you are? long exposures, the 30 large-scale pictures show We chose New Yorker Cindy Sherman as one of our a more tranquil, less frenetic 20 Bad Girls of Photography in the November 2010 side to New York. A vintage issue for her uncompromising method of working, which feel, coupled with famous explores the idea of identity. An exhibition at London locations devoid of life, show gallery Sprüth Magers presents new work by Sherman. another aspect of the city It is the way we’re used to seeing her – as the subject of that, it seems, does sleep her own images – but this time these are displayed as after all. large photographic murals rather than framed prints. New York Sleeps: Photographs CHRISTOPHER THOMAS The theme this time is ageing American socialites and is by Christopher Thomas, as challenging as ever. 2001-2009, until 26 February, Radio City. Cindy Sherman at Sprüth Magers London, until www.thewappingproject 19 February. http://spruethmagers.com bankside.com www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 19
  • 20.
  • 21. We have done the hard work for you and chosen the best photographic exhibitions on show this month. For a full list of exhibitions and events visit www.professionalphotographer.co.uk Masters of Photography Falmouth Art Gallery, Municipal Buildings, The Moor, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 2RT 01326 313863; www.falmouthartgallery.com 12 February to 2 April Falmouth Art Gallery presents an international photography exhibition, showing iconic images by photographers from many different eras, including Lee Miller, Eve Arnold, Linda McCartney, Fay Godwin, Jane Bown, Man Ray and Julia Margaret Cameron. Compositions by contemporary masters of photography will also be shown, including work by Ian Stern (1947-1978). Falmouth Art Gallery was recommended to his family by Dr Robin Lenman, editor of The Oxford Companion to the Photograph, and they donated 32 fascinating and haunting black-and-white photographs. The exhibition also includes work from a host of OXANA MAZUR Cornwall-based photographers including Mark Webster, Vince Bevan, Oxana Mazur and Anthony Fagin. Emotion. Bran Symondson: The Best View of Heaven is From Hell Idea Generation Gallery, 11 Chance Street, Shoreditch, E2 7JB 020 7749 6850; www.ideageneration.co.uk 28 January to 20 February An insightful collection of images by Bran Symondson is going on display at Idea Generation. His images show the daily existence and ethos of the Afghan National Police (ANP) in the war against the Taliban. When Symondson, a serving British soldier, returned to © BRAN SYMONDSON Afghanistan in 2010, he was able to capture a unique perspective on this current conflict. The ANP has been given the role of helping to bring Afghanistan together as a nation. Symondson’s images capture their remarkable and, until now, untold story. Sixty intimate portraits of the ANP will be on show while a programme of special events will run alongside the exhibition, including a tour of the gallery. Hoppé Portraits: Society, Studio and Street National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London, WC2H 0HE 020 7306 0055; www.npg.org.co.uk © 2010 CURATORIAL ASSISTANCE INC. / E.O. HOPPÉ ESTATE COLLECTION 17 February to 30 May A major exhibition dedicated to photographer E O Hoppé will be held at the National Portrait Gallery this spring. The collection will, for the first time, bring together some of his Modernist portraits, as well as later documentary studies. Hoppé (1878-1972) was among the most important photographers of the early 20th century. One of the first celebrity photographers, he captured striking portraits of some of the most important people of his time. More than 80 of Hoppé’s celebrity portraits, taken mainly in the 1910s and 1920s, will feature in the exhibition, including those of George Bernard Shaw, King George V and early Modernist poet Ezra Pound. Going into the 1930s Hoppé turned increasingly away from celebrity and studio portraits to concentrate on the other end of the social spectrum with studies of British street life. Ezra Pound, 1918. A collection of 50 images from this time will also be on show.
  • 22.
  • 23. THINGSHAVE CHANGED When PP editor Grant Scott was asked to commission a photographer to shoot the actress Kristin Scott Thomas as dusty faded sense to the whole place. There was and that it was his portfolio images that proved Jackie Kennedy he recognised no natural light and a claustrophobic feeling him as a serious photographer. about the small upstairs office where his faithful Funnily enough I was talking recently to the it as a chance to work with studio manager was based. photography agent, Mark George, who became an icon of the 1960s and a The ground floor was the studio, narrow, the Terry’s agent at this time, about the holiday snaps width of a carriage in fact, but long enough for and how great they were. He had had exactly the family friend. him to be able to shoot full length against a same reaction to them and as Terry’s agent had Colorama. However, the lighting equipment was forced him to show them as his portfolio. The world of as old as the cameras he was still shooting with. I believed in Terry and his work, despite the professional His large, cumbersome power packs and unwieldy impasse over his portfolio and constant references photography has lights filled the space. Remnants from the 1960s, to how his Robert Palmer video Addicted to Love, always been made up they still worked well but added to the feeling of changed the world of cinema and wanted to give of a small and being in a particularly sad time warp. In a small him a chance to bring his great photographic eye interconnected series alcove to the left of the studio, piled high in back into a commissioned project. So when I was of relationships, both brown archive boxes stacked to the ceiling, were asked to find a photographer to shoot the actress personal and work Terry’s holiday snaps, as he called them. Kristin Scott Thomas as Jackie Kennedy, the based. I cannot tell you Beautiful images all in black and white and sepia, 1960s fashion icon, I instantly thought of Terry. how many coincidences and mutual friendships many of 6 x 7 prints taken on his holidays. It seemed worth the risk. I thought he could bring have occurred and been revealed over the years on They showed him as the great photographer his understanding of the era and photographic shoots around the world. But I suppose that one he was, but he wasn’t showing anybody these reputation to the shoot. He was always asking, of the strangest connections I ever had with the pictures at the time. “What are they bringing to the party?” when photographic world came via my first wife, Instead he was showing a box of laminated discussing new young photographers, so I thought whose father was Terence Donovan’s images of girls in lingerie getting out of cars this would be the perfect opportunity for him to photographic assistant throughout the 1960s. (some of these are on the Donovan Archive show what he could bring. Because of this relationship and the close website today in a nudes portfolio and with I talked him through the idea for the shoot and proximity of Donovan’s mews studio to Vogue hindsight feel a little too reminiscent of the work he was up for it. We would shoot in the mews House in Hanover Square, where I was working, of Helmut Newton), alongside overly controlled studio. Terry played it down, just another shoot, we became friends. To some extent I also became celebrity portraits. They were of a different time but I felt that it could be more than that. someone he could connect with who was in a and had no relevance to the work being created at The fashion editor compiled a wardrobe of position to commission photographers during a the time during the mid to late 1990s. He couldn’t Jackie-Kennedy-inspired clothes and accessories period when he was finding it hard to get work understand why and despite my constant attempts and we brought in hair and make-up people with and relate to the changing landscape of to explain that the images he should be showing the right gravitas to work with Terry. He could photography at which he had both excelled and to get commissioned were his holiday snaps, be abrupt and intimidating, and the shoot would achieved wealth and fame. (The scene in the 1966 he continued to believe they were just for fun be no place for beginners. film Blow-Up when David Hemmings is driving around London in an open-topped Bentley with wads of cash was based directly on Donovan’s “The ground floor was the studio, narrow, the width of a carriage in behaviour at the time.) From the outside the mews was unidentifiable fact, but long enough for him to be able to shoot full length against as a photographic studio. It still retained the a Colorama. However, the lighting equipment was as old as the original double garage doors, and the internal decoration was exactly as it was when he had first cameras he was still shooting with. His large, cumbersome power moved in during the early 1970s. There was a packs and unwieldy lights filled the space.” Grant Scott www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 23
  • 24. Kristin Scott Thomas flew in from Paris, where she lived with her surgeon husband, for the shoot. “The day and the shoot had been a disaster. My gamble had not She’s a serious actress and it was obvious from paid off. The day had been filled with sadness for me, seeing a the start that she would want a say in how she was going to be photographed. Her first decision was photographer and a friend I admired fail to understand how much that she was not going to be dressed up as Jackie Kennedy. She knew nothing of the theme for the the industry had changed since his heyday.” Grant Scott shoot and she was not happy. Communication between the fashion editor, Kristin and her agent editor could be in the studio space, but only if she put up too much of an argument. I never worked had obviously broken down somewhere and it was stood hidden behind one of his monstrous light with him again. not a great start to the shoot. She did, however, stands and remained quiet. The atmosphere on the As I mentioned earlier Terry was taken on by agree to be photographed in some of the outfits shoot was now at rock bottom and nobody was Mark George (previously agent to Richard that had been supplied for her. enjoying themselves. Avedon and still carrying out that role for Don Meanwhile, Terry had turned up at the shoot in With Kristin in place in front of the Colorama McCullin) and returned for a brief spell to classic one of his trademark grey suits. He was a big and everyone placated, Terry began to shoot and portraiture shooting a Best of British Icons man, a judo champion and smart dresser, but the his assistant took the first Polaroid from him as he portfolio for GQ magazine. Sadly, his career suit he had chosen that day was as faded as the passed Terry his special glasses for looking at never recovered the energy and vibrancy that his studio – baggy at the pockets and torn on the Polaroids. These were large metal-sided jeweller’s old mate Bailey had managed to sustain. seam of his trousers. His assistant was the same glasses that were held on his head by a wide Terry took his own life in 1996, aged 60. He left one he had used in the 1970s but had not worked elastic band and which were usually used to see behind millions of prints in tidy little boxes with for some while. Everything felt as if the the fine detail in precious gemstones. It was all over his studio and his two houses. They were cobwebs had just been dusted off. There was no all part of the theatre of working with Terry but his holiday snaps. energy and my heart sank as Kristin came down it just felt out of step with the times. I attended the memorial service held in the stairs for the first shot. We raced through the shoot with little St George’s Church just around the corner from Immediately Terry demanded the studio space enthusiasm and said our farewells swiftly at the both Vogue House and his old studio. It was to be cleared of everyone except Kristin, himself end of a very short day. The day and the shoot had packed with photographers, fashion editors, art and me. He didn’t want people hanging around or been a disaster. My gamble had not paid off. directors, family and friends, including Princess getting in the way. This did not go down well with The day had been filled with sadness for me, Diana and Margaret Thatcher. His daughter Daisy, the team, who were used to pampering and seeing a photographer and a friend I admired fail who went on to become a famous television primping the subject throughout the shoot and to understand how much the industry had presenter, gave a speech that moved everyone to having an input into how it was going. Terry was changed since his heyday. tears. What a shame that he had not been able to from a different time and he wasn’t going to A few days later the prints from the shoot were see that he wasn’t as forgotten by the industry as change the way he worked for anybody. delivered but they were unusable. It would not he thought he had been. PP To prevent the shoot falling apart completely I have been fair to anybody involved to allow them managed to get him to agree that the fashion to appear. I explained this to Terry and he didn’t www.terencedonovan.co.uk GO ONLINE FOR MORE EXCLUSIVE TALES FROM THE WORLD OF PHOTOGRAPHY, VISIT WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK 24 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 25.
  • 26. SUBSCRIBE GILLES BENSIMON ONTHEPHONE Gilles Bensimon has spent the past 40 years photographing some of the most beautiful women in the world in some of the world’s most beautiful locations, helped to define the visual identity of ELLE magazine, married and divorced Elle Macpherson and appeared on America’s Next Top Model TV show. PP Editor Grant Scott managed to catch him on the phone in Paris to find out more about his life, times and photography. Grant: Gilles, when I was art directing business. Then I worked with a photographer for ELLE magazine, I always loved your work, a very few months and then after that, very and your style of photography was strangely, I started to work for ELLE magazine. synonymous with the original French But from the beginning they didn’t really want me weekly version. How did you get involved to do what I wanted to do. with them in the 1980s and start taking Grant: Your photography at the time seemed those kinds of images? to be very ‘non-photographic’, very natural. Gilles: I must admit that when I was young I Gilles: I’m happy you recognise that but at that never wanted to work. It’s every kid’s dream to time people didn’t think what I was doing was become somebody, and I went to art school, then trendy, you know. I was never obsessed with the army and when I got out I realised that I was trends. I think that photography should be obliged to do something. I thought that a drug timeless. It’s like cooking, you do not want too dealer was a good job but it had disadvantages. many ingredients. People talk more about my I never did become a drug dealer, but when work now than they did then. Grant: You were shooting a lot of images on GILLES BENSIMON a friend was trying it out as a business, I said to him that it seemed like a good job for me. He said he didn’t think so. So I tried to become some sort of artist, because my family were in the art Singer and actress Jennifer Lopez. 56 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk Subscribe today to 12 issues of Professional Photographer by Direct Debit for just £29.99, saving you 37% on the cover price, alternatively subscribe for £34 by credit or debit card, saving you 27% Receive a FREE copy of The Photographer’s PLUS: Guide to Turning Pro IT’S EASY TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT: www.subscriptionsave.co.uk/pp/02PA CALL: 01858 438840 and quote 02PA Terms & Conditions: Professional Photographer is published 12 times per year. Savings based on the cover price of £3.99 per issue. For overseas orders please call +44 (0) 1858 438840. Please allow 28 days for delivery of your first issue. Offer closes 23 February 2011.
  • 27. &SAVE37% GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE Save up to £17.89 on the cover price – that’s 37% Be the first to get the new issues and have Professional Photographer delivered direct to your door NEW! You will be able to access digital editions and back issues of each month’s magazine for free Plus, receive a free issue of The Photographer’s Guide to Turning Pro Turning Pro, published six times a year, is perfect for enthusiast photographers who are keen to make money from their hobby, those starting out in the business and photography students looking to take their first steps on the road to professional photography. Every issue is packed with advice and inspiration from the experts.
  • 28. podcast ON YOUR WAVELENGTH Every month we record a free podcast discussing, debating and chatting around a subject featured in the magazine. We post them on our website and you can subscribe for free and download them via iTunes. So if you haven’t listened in yet, why not give them a try? THIS MONTH’S PODCAST Photographic Portrait Prize and whether there is the PP’s support group, the United States of February Issue such a thing as a formula for winning. Photography, which was launched in the THE BUSINESS SPECIAL September issue. They talk about the origins of The regular podcast team talk tax, finance and November Issue the USP, which was a response to an article on marketing to coincide with the business special SEXY OR SEXIST? the loneliness of being a freelance photographer, in the February issue. They look at whether Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench report on its reception among pro photographers, possessing business and photography skills go discuss why some images are seen as sexy while and examine its aims. The team also asks if hand in hand, discuss potential areas where others are labelled sexist. photographers are becoming increasingly seeking professional advice could reap rewards isolated in a digital age and why support groups and ask if current photography students are October Issue are more important than ever. aware of the importance of business skills when THE SECRETS OF BEING A PRO choosing a career as a professional photographer. This month Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and August Issue Peter Dench discuss the secrets of professional THE BAD BOYS OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND THOSE YOU MAY HAVE MISSED… photography. Veteran pros Grant and Peter relate The 25 Bad Boys of Photography list in the January Issue their experiences of working alongside other August issue is discussed by Grant Scott, ICONS OF PHOTOGRAPHY photographers and how these have influenced Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench. The debate PP Editor Grant Scott and deputy editor Eleanor their working practices. With the days of the centres on the diverse lives of the photographers O’Kane are joined by regular columnist communal darkroom and lab long gone, the in the final list, including Guy Bourdin, David and photojournalist Peter Dench to discuss the opportunity to share news and advice in person Bailey, Helmut Newton, David Hockney and importance of learning from the masters, has disappeared. The team also discusses how Wolfgang Tillmans. All 25 have broken the rules the point at which a photographer becomes an photographers are sharing information in the in one way or another. The podcast team looks icon and their own personal favourites. digital age and looks at new ways of networking, at whether being a ‘bad boy’ is merely a facade including the PP’s United States of Photography. for some photographers. December Issue PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITIONS September Issue You can subscribe for free and download the Grant Scott is joined by Eleanor O’Kane and THE UNITED STATES OF PHOTOGRAPHY podcasts from iTunes by typing professional photographer Peter Dench to discuss the world of The regular podcast team of Grant Scott, Eleanor photographer into the search tab or listen via competitions, the contentious Taylor Wessing O’Kane and Peter Dench discuss the creation of www.professionalphotographer.co.uk. PP Get the latest issue of Professional Photographer delivered direct to your door! Every month you can buy Professional Photographer online with free delivery to the UK. There’s now no need to leave the comfort of your own home to find a copy, because your latest issue is only a click away. To order the latest issue go to www.professionalphotographer.co.uk/current Free delivery to UK, £1 to the rest of Europe and £2.50 to the rest of the world. Please allow up to 10 working days for delivery. 28 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 29.
  • 30. dispatches Clive Booth tales from the frontline of professional photography It’s the first official working day of 2011 and favourite, and inspired me to take a closer look I’m in the midst of organising new shoots; at my home county and get out and shoot stills and video, professional and personal. landscapes, which I do with a passion to this day. This year I really want to do more with both still And yet it was hearing Paul discussing his imagery and DSLR video. Professionally, there’s new work, Corridor of Uncertainty, that really half a dozen projects in the pipeline, but it’s the gripped me. personal ones that have been occupying my mind ‘Bereavement, for me, is being between two for the majority of a flu-filled Christmas and New states: what has been and what may take place in Year. Personal projects are often what define us – the future. The work that I have made mirrors our interests, style, opinion – and it is so often the this interstice. I was greatly affected by the deaths case that clients are drawn to us having seen our of my parents and close friends, but the death This month: personal work. Sometimes we are lucky enough to be so busy that there is very little room for such projects. of a spouse is overwhelmingly different. I had no map, as I had obviously never been here before. To pick up a camera is not the normal thing Clive looks at the impact Yet if we choose correctly, they should burn to do when confronted by a family tragedy, even if like a fire within us; sometimes an ember, you are a photographer like me. But it was and effect of a personal sometimes a blaze and sometimes a raging surprisingly the most natural thing for me to do. ’ inferno. I was struck by a comment made at I sat there transfixed listening to Paul talk project and explains Canon Pro Photo Solutions 2010 in an interview about how he had felt at the time of shooting this how one particular place by this magazine with Zed Nelson, when he made a point about how much more interesting it is to set of pictures. This touched me in a way that I will never forget, and reopened my eyes to the and its inhabitants never see a photographer’s personal work. I had recently been to a lecture by Paul Hill. power of the still image. It seems to me that in times of deep despair and pain, as creatives we cease to inspire him. He has given a great deal to photography and taught many big-name photographers in his long are often drawn to somehow search for an explanation, understanding or acceptance through career. His book, White Peak, Dark Peak – a the medium in which we feel most comfortable; series of black-and-white landscapes taken in the whether it be paint, the written word or, in Peak District National Park – is a personal Paul’s case, photography. For the majority of the time I am shooting fashion, beauty and portrait – both stills and now increasingly DSLR video. I love what I do and wouldn’t change a thing. Yet there is a yearning deep down to extend myself, to use the skills that I have worked so hard to perfect and refine and channel them into meaningful, personal project work. I have a number of ideas that I want to explore this year, and yet this must be balanced with making a living. Of course, motivation is at the heart of all we do, so whatever project I choose it must be interesting, involving and come from the heart. Committing oneself to an idea is just as important, and once chosen we are then able to focus. As I said, there are several possibilities on the table. But one stands out above all, and whatever I choose to do this year, Left: Creel fisherman Alec ‘Nazza’ Campbell. CLIVE BOOTH Opposite page: Photographed as he opened the door in November, Callum Anderson, the first commercial ships captain to sail into communist China. 30 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 31. “Nearly 20 years ago I made a filming trip that quite literally changed my life, and it was the place and the people that have become a major part of my life ever since.” Clive Booth this place and its people will somehow be a part shoots on Hoy, in the Orkney Islands, and on the isles, shooting from the top of yachts’ masts, of it. Eiger in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland for BBC off the sides of lifeboats and from the water Nearly 20 years ago I made a filming trip that Television. This budding film career may have around the nets of local fishing boats. All the quite literally changed my life, and it was the even blossomed into a profession had there been shoots back then left a huge impression on me, place and the people that have become a major the technology we have today. But alas, compact and yet it was this one shoot on a little Scottish part of my life ever since. Back then I was video was used only when a Betacam (the island that sowed the seed for a lifelong love shooting film stills and compact professional professional standard of the time) could not affair with both the place and its people. If life is video (Hi8 and S-VHS). My shooting was be carried into hostile or inaccessible areas. about experience then this one trip opened my semi-professional, as was I. For more than a As exciting as climbing on to icebergs, filming eyes to the possibilities that travelling, places and decade I remained a graphic designer, even polar bears or scaling mountains was for me, people can offer to all of us, at any age. I knew as though I had already spent two months in it was a surprise trip to Scotland that was to we waved goodbye to this magical place and its Spitsbergen – a group of small islands in the change everything. friendly, solid, kind and mischievous people, that Norwegian Sea, north of Norway – where I In September 1994 I first set foot on the Inner I had found another home. In fact, to this day I was shooting a documentary of a scientific, Hebridean island of Islay. I was there to know more people on Islay than in the town environmental, research expedition. I also had support a film crew sailing around the Hebridean where I live, and Islay feels very much like a www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 31
  • 32. dispatches second home. Islay (pronounced ‘eye-la’) is known as the Queen of the Hebrides. It is the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides. It lies in Argyll just west of Jura and around 25 miles north of the Irish coast and Rathlin Island. It has just over 3,000 inhabitants, a third of whom still speak Gaelic. With a total area of almost 239 square miles, its main industries are malt whisky distilling and tourism based largely on whisky and birdwatching. Needless to say, the place and its people have had a profound effect upon me. The best way to explain this is simple – go there! “Quite simply, Harold and move down the list of possible personal projects, Islay and its people appears, and will remain, In the meantime, to get a feel for the island wit and atmosphere, there are few better examples his wife Margaret are the near the top. But it’s what I do with this association and unique connection that is than the 1954 British comedy film The Maggie; the story of a clash of cultures between a reason I have this bond the biggest challenge. Will it be master distiller Jim McEwen, hard-driving American businessman and a wily Islay steamboat captain. with the place and its creating vatted malts and talking with tears in his eyes of Islay and its people, both past and present, Islay is a community unlike any other I have people. An unlikely with an unrivalled passion and emotion earned ever encountered. People rely upon each other in from nearly half a century of experience within a way that we have, for the most part, lost or friendship, fisherman and the whisky industry? Or the gentle and kind creel forgotten in mainland Britain. Over the past 16 years I have forged great friendships and shared photographer, separated fisherman, Alec Campbell, known affectionately as ‘Nazza’, hauling off the south side of Islay and in some of the happiest and saddest of times. Indeed, it was Islay that played a significant part by 400 miles, and yet we catching bait off the back of the boat, only to give it all to the rather large and ever-hungry grey seal in me turning professional; shooting three charity sailing expeditions in 2003, 2005 and 2007. speak nearly every week; named by the locals as Rupert? (Nazza once fed him 40 large mackerel, just to see exactly how Many of the islanders turned out to support us as we rowed and sailed Irish skiffs alongside a usually me from the car many fish he could eat at a single sitting.) Will it be retired policeman Ian Smith, walking his dog flotilla of fishing boats from island to island, and and Harold from the boat.” Ben and then teaching me how to sing traditional even across the channel to Portrush, picking up Scottish anthems back at his flat? Or Jim whisky from some of the world’s finest distilleries Clive Booth McFarlane, fisherman and historian, regaling me and then blending and bottling it for auction. with the local fishing history and attempting to If I could pin down my long association with many Ileachs. On first impression he is laid back, teach me Gaelic over several drams in his front Islay, and the key that has unlocked the door to disarming, charming and yet, underneath, there is living room, overlooking Port Ellen harbour? this second home, it would be in the form of one a strength of character, depth and a fierce pride Or Kevin ‘Cloudy’ Campbell, Lagavulin distillery of my closest friends, scallop fisherman, of place that I can only assume comes from a man and charity fundraiser, playing England coastguard station officer and submarine liaison, lifetime at sea and living on an island. Wit and versus Scotland pool tournaments in his shed, Harold Hastie. Quite simply, Harold and his wife humour are at the very centre of the people, and it or peat cutting at father-in-law Alan Margaret are the reason I have this bond with the comes quick and often. It’s a humour that is hard MacDougall’s croft. Or Duncan McGillivray, place and its people. An unlikely friendship, to explain in words, but must be experienced distillery manager, indulging his passion for fisherman and photographer, separated by through the soft Islay lilt and in the twinkle of 400 miles, and yet we speak nearly every week; the eyes. I suppose it’s obvious, but nevertheless usually me from the car and Harold from the worth mentioning, that as photographers and Above left to right: Rupert the grey seal; 4.30 on a July CLIVE BOOTH boat. Many of the residents of Islay have film makers we cover subjects that are close to morning; Retired policeman Ian Smith admires the view nicknames. Harold’s is ‘Kamikaze’. Need I say us and generate opportunities from our personal over Port Ellen harbour while enjoying a glass of more? Well yes actually, because Harold is like connections with people and places. And as I Lagavulin; John Martin, charity sailor and oarsman. 32 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk