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1. FFT (Fashion Forward Trends)
is today’s window to
tomorrow’s fashions and also
a Trend Forecasting site which
spotted the latest trends from
around the world and
analyses it and provide better
understanding to its readers.

2. autumn/winter2014-15 | mensweartrends | FFT magazine114 Fashion Forward Trends
For outerwear, below the knee has been the unanimous choice of length for menswear
designers. The overcoat, in its entire manly demeanour, has appeared in almost every
collection whilst being interpreted in varied styles. Highly contoured trench coats, some
zipped, some double breasted and some geometrically panelled bring back a flavour of
the vintage. Printed in native patterns were the folksy variations which were mostly
oversized with heavy shearling for lapels. The constant spotting of fleece and terrycloth
on overcoats suggested the onset of a snug winter; the blanket-inspired long coats
pushed the season further into a cosy space. Splatter print, dip-dyes and brushstroke
print were all laid against dark shades and similarly, fabrics too – silver jacquards and
grey tweeds – conformed to a somewhat sombre mood.
Deconstruc
t
Mr.ManCoat
Like spring, laidback seems to define the mood for the Fall season; strictest of
silhouettes give in to the vibe, inviting sartorial ease in tailoring and fit. The oversize
shape, especially on outerwear, is flanked by elements which strike for their
unconventional inclusion, whether for raglan sleeves or for droopy lapels on a string of
formalwear separates. Shoulders, too, have been induced with a similar slackness, so has
the length of the sleeve which tends to exceed the arm length. As stiffness is lifted off
double breasted coats, the waist- although devoid of any fit- emerges with unfastened
waist belts with visible folds of slack around the waist. Cape coats, robe
Haider Ackermann
trench coats, A-line overcoats and unlined coats are the many versions of the trend,
all endorsing the idea of relaxedtailoring.
Dolce &Gabbana
Roberto Cavalli Dior Homme
Maison Martin
Margiela Costume National
Berluti
Corneliani
Hermès
Lanvin
t is an interesting time for menswear; in the season we left behind,
Idesigners celebrated dark florals and dandy men with a few traces of
technical elements. The experimentation has now been taken up with stronger
force. Jackets, with complicated patterns and stitched in technical fabrics, have
been sent on the runways unapologetically, often juxtaposed with elements of
traditional menswear. Leather, of all materials, gets its due not just channelled
in retro style jackets but appreciated for its effortless adaptability to ready to
wearapparel.
Dandy does reflect in shrunken pea coats and short jackets but the season
equally celebrates a cosy fit which draws attention to unconventional fabric
qualities and fabric manipulations. Technical creativity stands out not only in
terms of innovative silhouettes, but through unthinkable fabric combinations
and treatments. Besides all the design enhancements, the season- in the real
sense, belongs to hybrids. From fusion blazers and tailored sweatpants to
shirt jackets and cape overcoats, designers did not shy away from putting
forward avant-garde silhouetteideas.
Fall 2014-15 has vehemently come forth as a season where past attempts at
remodelling menswear have finally been realised, the influence of which gives
rise to modern yet traditionally informed menswear.
Outerwear steals theshow
with hybrids making a
grand entry
MenswearTrends
MENSWEAR
AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15

3. autumn/winter2014-15 | mensweartrends | FFT magazineFashionForwardTrends
Easily the most innovative trend in outerwear for men and women’s wear this season is
that of the dawning cape. Attached to the shirt or layered over formals, they chart a
casual territory when constructed in ripstop or windcheater fabric and they move on to
suave work wear just as easily, when built in tweed or suit textiles. While some designers
went for ghost sleeves and oversized hoodies, others experimented by cutting out the
front placket of the cape to trigger off a robe effect. Hemlines were toyed around with
from high low to drooping and diversity was achieved by fixing faux fur and leather
plackets at the front.
The trend, in its visual appearance, is a call from the native lands; with an inherent
masculinity that takes the season back to the countryside. Designers explore not just
prints but render the outerwear silhouette, trims and design details in a similar shade.
The interpretations are immense, the drawstrings waist being omnipresent on both
formal and casual styles. A more carefree side of the trend saw faded denim capes and
folksy cardigans with generous shearling lapels. Designers went a step ahead offering
more than just silhouette inspirations – intricate surfaces like African cord weaving
invited embroidery enthusiasts, over-dyed and flocked suiting fabrics made for an
intriguing texture play and a refreshing comeback was made by the toggle switch for
closures.
Cape
Town
Shepherd
Coats
Ports 1961
Antonio Marras
3.1 Phillip Lim
Balenciaga
Balmain
Hermès
3.1 Phillip Lim
Belstaff
Emporio Armani
Maison Martin
Margiela
Explorations of last season have given leather a new face, a face which is minimal but
exceedingly luxurious. This season, leather outerwear breaks from the shackles of the
customary biker jacket and rather presents itself in regular ready to wear. Three styles
that have emerged would be the shearling-lined jackets that strike for their perfectly
round sleeves and shoulders, the aesthetically clean-surfaced jackets which tap on stiff
constructional details and the boxy styles which fit considerably looser than the former
styles. Given the structural identity of the runway jackets, designers are mostly exploring
qualities of buff and cow leather; the cleaner ones stick to coated qualities as they rely
on the gloss for impact whereas the rugged ones, to restore a raw sensibility, take their
shape best in washed qualities of cow pull up leather.
ShirtInAJacket
Leather
Nouveau
The brigade of shirt jackets on the runway could be easily credited to the streamlined fit
ignited by the dandies of the proceeding Fall season. An outerwear, which imitates the
classic details of an office shirt, sticks to either a contoured or a boxy fit (T-fit) and ends
at the waist or just below it. Taking a toss between a shirt and jacket, flannel and heather
shirts – meant to be worn as an outer layer-worked on similar lines. Designers toy with
construction ideas that involve thinner qualities of woven fabrics which drape like a
shirt but still account for outerwear. A similar jacket of Giorgio Armani fabricated in
sharksin wound worsted fabric explored the many facets of the
Dsquared²
trend- from attaching a thin, ribbed collar on a languid silhouette to rounding it off
with anelastic waist.
Gucci
Calvin Klein
Collection Emporio Armani
Alexander
McQueen Dsquared²
3.1 Phillip Lim
Antonio Marras
Giorgio Armani
Gucci

4. autumn/winter2014-15 | mensweartrends | FFT magazineFashionForwardTrends
As sportswear becomes a mainstream influence, sporty staples accordingly adapt to the
nature of ready to wear. Sweatpants-now easily a part of a casual or formal ensemble-
have been face lifted with clever tailoring. Shunning their original slack fit, these track
pants are increasingly suggestive of the tapered fit that is bound to rule this particular
category. While in some cases the materials, viz., picked-stretch jersey, fleece and cotton
lycra still adhere to a conventional-looking sweatpant, there is a striking difference in its
construction. Borrowing its fit from the new age skinny trousers, these sleek joggers
have been further delivered in soft cotton for a refined look and in leather sided by
quilted kneepads. However, designers still haven’t done away with design elements
which evoke familiarity−drawstring waists continue to show up together with ribbed
cuffs.
Formals trousers seem to have a mind of their own, for Fall. On the one hand there are
slack track pants; on the other, supremely contoured trousers spring up as the surprise
silhouette. Mostly spotted under fitted party blazers or paired with dandy shirts, the
trend calls out to the metrosexual man. From last year’s sectional fit, the skinny trousers
now fit almost like ballet slacks, extremely tapered from the crotch, along the thighs to
the calves. A classier version of the trend saw the skinny trousers accompanying a three-
piece suit covered in flamboyant Milanese windowpane checks and another version,
stitched in tweed, was grounded in classic Alabama style. While the colours alternated
between tonal greys and wintry pastels, the tapered fit resonated in all collections, even
remotely inspired bydandy.
SportySass
Seriously
Tapered
Dries Van Noten
Etro
Costume National
Acne Studios
Berluti
Costume National
Balmain
Bottega Veneta
Casely-Hayford
Casely-Hayford
Intimidating, high collars-somewhat a cross between a stand collar and turtle neck- have
been laid on menswear separates. The detail, because of its futuristic visual appeal,
comes across as avant- garde, hence designers are quick to attach it to structured
silhouettes. Since the collar is stitched in a continuous pattern, it works on easy to wear,
closure-free silhouettes, the only exception being zipped up necks. While the trend has
been worked on sweatshirts as a high standing and generously spacious collar, there
have been traces of its experimental adaptation. Its adoption as a chunky knit collar on a
satin tunic, together with an effortless transition on a raw edged leather tunic, illustrates
the versatility of thetrend.
InThe
Hood
High
Stand
Hoodies are a common winter phenomenon, an almost essential extension on
outerwear. For Fall, the hood has found solace in oversized, technical jackets
constructed with a flair for futuristic tailoring. Most jackets play on the principle of
hybrid; so while the hoods are generally kept bigger than usual leaving spacious
necklines, the coat bodice is left a little more versatile. Blazers and coats laid in finer
qualities of wool – yet constructed in a technical silhouette-instantly expand the
potential deliverables of the trend. Heavier silhouettes-laden with eyelets, metal buttons
and buckled belts-borrow from popular biker sensibility; pinstriped trench
Givenchy
coats with fur hoods hit all the right notes of formalwear. For sporty jackets, qualities
of ripstop came to the fore whereas gabardine was easily the choice for the trend’s
formalcounterparts.
Dior Homme
Acne Studios Paul Smith
Dolce&
Gabbana Rag &Bone
Alexander Wang
Damir Doma
Acne Studios
Dior Homme

5. autumn/winter2014-15 | mensweartrends | FFT magazineFashionForwardTrends
This is a particularly cosy season for menswear, traces of which can be seen in the
minutest of design details. The shawl collar, otherwise a modest collar seen on
eveningwear tuxedos, has now graced more casual silhouettes presenting itself in
bolder, more versatile styles. On overcoats, the collar has extended to wide lapels ending
below the waist or at the chest, on pinstriped trench coats comparatively thinner and on
chunky cardigans, as an extension of a wrap detail. Two completely contrasting
renditions of the trend have been the bold fur one on tweed coats and alternatively, on
technical jacket, as a sharpone.
Smooth
Curve
Cover
Story
Louis Vuitton
Missoni
Sibling
Robert Cavalli
Rick Owens
Burberry Prorsum
Canali
Kenzo
Roberto Cavalli
Comme des
Garçons
Chaotic
Craving
Tetris
Theory
Moving on from the chaos created by dark florals and brushstrokes of spring, this season
saw a series of old and new vicinities being explored. The runways at Milan were
thronged with overlaid rock prints as camouflage, marbled prints, freehand scribbling,
cracked effects, artistic paint splatters and hybrid animal prints merged into one. Paris,
however, was led by neon colours and DNA patterns in the form of cosmic traceries,
geological strata lines, kaleidoscopic pleating at Issey Miyake creating psychedelic
mixes. The designs at London underplayed the perplexity with floral camouflage and
all-over wood effect prints on blazers, while the experimentation
IsseyMiyake
with the idea of busy photomontages and textured pattern play was sighted as an
interesting extension of thetrend.
KTZ
Dries Van Noten
Taking ordinary overcoats and routine formals to a place more credulous and mirthful,
designers rolled out their favourite videogame quirks. A clever play between strategy
and time, tetris was deemed fit to be printed in all its puzzling shapes and sizes. While
some designers used gold lame and glossy black tape to define the lines properly,
others played with contrasting solids to create their own geometrical riddles. Creativity
at its best, the print breathed fresh air into winter knits, long coats and fitted jackets,
with boxy contours on silhouettes faultlessly complimenting the sharp perpendicular
nature and form of strokes.
E. Tautz
Alexander
McQueen
Iceberg
Dior Homme
J.W.Anderson
Acne Studios
MSGM
An accessory that managed to make quite a statement on not only the men’s but also
the women’s runway was that of a blanket or an oversized muffler. Layering up formal
looks with carpet like cover-ups on shoulders and larger than life mufflers around the
neck was a given backup for the chilly weather upon us. No fabric territory was left
untouched as the trend pushed boundaries by including horse blankets, crocheted
afghans, patch-worked blankets from mohair and yak wool, and duchesse satin in
addition to the usual- velvet, fur and silk. From busy cracked prints to Aztec to vibrant
tribal ones, each collection represented their prime themes through this simple add- on.

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