Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps          WROCŁAW                              May - August 2011...
CONTENTS                               3                                                                  Become a fan of ...
4         FOREWORD    Some say it’s unfair to compare a relatively unknown    Polish city to its neighbouring touristic be...
6          WROCLAW‘S GNOMES                                                                        and smurfs, complete wi...
8          ARRIVING & TRANSPORT                                                                                           ...
10         ARRIVING & TRANSPORT                                                                                           ...
12         BASICS                                                                                                         ...
14         BASICS                                                                                                         ...
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
Wroclaw Tourist Guide
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Wroclaw Tourist Guide

  1. 1. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps WROCŁAW May - August 2011 Wroclaw’s Gnomes From protest symbol to tourist attraction EURO 2012 Wroclaw’s preparations for a summer of football N°21 - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) wroclaw.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1642-2899
  2. 2. CONTENTS 3 Become a fan of Wrocław In Your Pocket on Facebook Contents Arriving & Transport 8 The Basics 12 Culture & Events 15 Where to Stay 21 Restaurants 32 Cafés 50 Nightlife Bars & Pubs 52 Clubs 58 In the summer of next year, Poland and Wroclaw will find themselves beamed around the globe as the best (if not biggest) football tournament comes to town. Many thought it was a mistake awarding the EURO2012 finals to Poland. Well not so fast. The stadium is on target to open this summer. Check the latest on page 31. History 62 Sightseeing Essential Wrocław 64 Old Town 71 Ostrów Tumski 72 Centennial Hall and Parks 73 Jewish Warsaw 74 Silesian Churches of Peace 75 Festung Breslau 78 Leisure 80 Shopping 84 Directory 89 Maps & Index City Centre Map 91As you wander around the wonderful old town and environs City Map 92the eagle-eyed among you will notice a proliferation of Country Map 94small bronze vertically challenged figures. These are theWroclawskie Krasnale (Wroclaw Gnomes) and they were at Tram Map 95the forefront of Wroclaw’s ultimately successful defeat of Street Index 96communism. What? Read more on page 6. Photo: Marcin Listings Index 97Wiktorski , courtesy of City Promotion Office, Municipality Features Index 98of Wrocławwroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011
  3. 3. 4 FOREWORD Some say it’s unfair to compare a relatively unknown Polish city to its neighbouring touristic behemoths, but Europe In Your Pocket Wrocław is well-placed among the Hapsburg jewels of Central Europe, and brings some unique talent to Northern Estonia the table. Yes, Wrocław holds her own with the likes Ireland of Prague, Krakow and even Vienna. It did indeed Russia Ireland Latvia require a long and extremely diverse history to cook up this Silesian dish, otherwise known as Breslau. The Lithuania recipe is a lump of communist city planning, with a heaping spoonful of Austrian Hapsburg gothic charm, a Belarus teaspoon each of German Hanseatic spice and Silesian Netherlands amber, topped off with a dash of Bohemian rhapsody, Poland and voilà: you have Wrocław. Germany Ukraine More and more people are ‘discovering’ Wrocław and the Czech city is humming as a result. The hive of activity includes Republic a complete refurbishing of what was already a hugely Austria impressive railway station, a brand new philharmonic Switzerland Slovenia Romania concert hall along the banks of the Fosa Miejska, and a myriad of projects in preparation for the EURO football Croatia finals which the city will proudly host in 2012. Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria You can understand why Prussian warrior kings, Montenegro Kosovo Austrian empresses, German chancellors and Soviet FYR Macedonia dictators all waged a war or two trying to obtain or Albania simply keep this jewel of Silesia. In the city centre, Greece you’re never too far from an awe-inspiring church, a picturesque view that looks to have been crafted with future postcards in mind, or a bar that will steadfastly remain open even for a solitary customer. And, like the gnomes that dot the city and seem to be surreptitiously placed around every corner, Wrocław has far too many In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of sights, sounds, bites and beauties for you to handle all late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac on your lonesome. And that is why we’re here, to ‘walk’ and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in you through all things must-see and must-do in Poland’s Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus, third largest and most underrated city. will be the next In Your Pocket to launch. As always, we bring you the best of Wrocław and We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our Poland in general and help you to avoid the irritating cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket and forgettable, and gobble up the ‘can’t misses’ and guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which ‘I’ll always remember’ online (downloadable in PDF), in cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with our handy map, a snazzy new iphone app, and – for the all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your staunch traditionalists – in paper form. We appreciate Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) your comments or feedback online or by email to editor_ or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). poland@inyourpocket.com. Editorial Copyright notice Writer Craig Turp Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o. Research Manager Anna Hojan 1999-2011. Maps copyright cartographer. Research Katarzyna Burzyńska, All rights reserved. No part of this Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff publication may be reproduced in any Publisher Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott, form, except brief extracts for the purpose Łukasz Jankowski WIYP Sp. z o.o. Design Tomáš Haman of review, without written permission from ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot Photography Alex Webber, Rentapocket, the publisher and copyright owner. The www.wikipedia.pl, Anna Wyrzykowska brand name In Your Pocket is used under Company Office & Accounts Cover Krzysztof Szymoniak, courtesy of City license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu Basia Olszewska Promotion Office, Municipality of Wrocław 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 58 555 08 31 29 76). wroclaw@inyourpocket.com Sales & Circulation www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676 Printing CGS Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane The editorial content of In Your Pocket Published 15,000 copies, Manager: Anna Szumniak 668 876 351 guides is independent from paid-for 3 times per year Warszawa/Łódź advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Maps Wrocław/Poznań readers‘ comments and suggestions. Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM We have made every effort to ensure Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 606 749 642 the accuracy of the information at the ul. Wenecja 26/5, 31-117 Kraków, Gdansk/Bydgoszcz tel./fax 12 421 24 48 time of going to press and assume no agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18 responsibility for changes and errors. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
  4. 4. 6 WROCLAW‘S GNOMES and smurfs, complete with red hats and handkerchiefs, while an anti-Chernobyl protest saw Major Fydrych handing out gnome-like headwear to passing pedestrians. As communism and anti-communism faded away in the 1990’s, the gnomes remained a symbol of Wrocław. The first gnome in its modern statuette form was Papa Krasnal who was placed in 2001 on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), near the subway where Orange Alternative demonstrations often took place. It was commissioned by Agora (the publisher of Gazeta Wyborcza) to celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative. Things really took off in 2005 when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate from the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts – created five gnomes. Commissioned by the Wrocław City Council, that original quintet consisted of: Szermierz (B-2), located in Pl. Uniwersytecki, the subway station under the Wrocław University, (Unfortunately Szermierz disappeared 3 years ago), Rzeźnik (A-2), on Marcin Wiktorski , courtesy of City Promotion Office, ul. Jatki, Syzyfki (B-3), two gnomes on ul. Świdnicka, next Municipality of Wrocław to the Post Office, and Pracz Odrzański (the name refers to one of Wrocław’s suburbs - Pracze Odrzańskie and is They are everywhere in Wrocław. Like a miniature invading wordplay - “pracz” in Polish means “washer”); the little guy is army they dot the city’s doorways, alleys and street corners. near Piaskowy Bridge (C-2) washing something in Odra river. You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably – and often literally - you will stumble They soon proved so popular that envious local businesses upon them. They are knee-high; they are adorable; and in the got in on the game contracting other artists to produce more. city centre they are simply ubiquitous. Surprisingly, one of In almost no time at all the little devils have proliferated to Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions the point that now we’re not certain exactly how many there is not a cathedral, not a castle or monument, but a legion of are. They are rumoured to be running rampant to the score little people: Gnomes, to be precise. Keep your eyes peeled of nearly 180. On June 18, 2008 the city unveiled another as you walk about town and you’re bound to notice the little set of gnomes – one blind (Niewidomy), one deaf-mute fellas engaged in a variety of activities – from guarding public (Głuchoniemy), and one in a wheelchair (A-3), near the space to passed-out drunk. Beloved by local residents and entrance to the Town Hall. They represent the “Wrocław bez tourists alike and the object of more photos than the towering barier” programme which endeavours to raise awareness for Cathedral, these mini-men have become the unlikely symbol the disabled community of Wrocław. of this picturesque Polish city. All the little statues depict the gnomes engaged in various The gnomes - individually called Krasnoludek (or Krasnal) activities, often reflecting their particular locations. One of in Polish - are mythological dwarf-like creatures that were the most popular gnomes is Życzliwek (Well-Wisher Dwarf) common in medieval European folktales and literature. They located on the Rynek next to the fountain, on Pl. Gołębi, (A-3). are invariably represented as miniature male humans, often November 21st – The Day of Kindness (and Well-Wisher’s with little potbellies, big round noses, long beards and pointy festival) - is his official holiday, and he’s even got his very own red hats. The original word, krasnoludek, appears to be an blog and Facebook page. Other popular gnomes are: Śpioch amalgamation of Russian ‘красный’ (krasny - red) and Polish (A-3), on ul. Św. Mikołaja on the back of Jaś tenement house, ‘ludek’ (small person or human-like creature). Więziennik (B-2), on ul. Więzienna, on the parapet of the old prison building, and of course Papa Krasnal (A-4), on the Gnomes have a long history in Polish folklore, but their corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego. Costing current iconic incarnation in Wrocław began in the 1980s. about 4,000zł apiece, each work has become embedded in Under communism gnomes became the absurdist calling the hearts of the locals and has a GPS device embedded in card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ movement – an underground its heart - a necessary precaution after one of the beloved protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense to buggers (Rzeznik) disappeared from its post on ul. Jatki a few stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Led by Waldemar years ago. He has since been recovered and is back on display. ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and art history student at Wrocław University, the Orange Alternative wasn’t interested in political Today’s Wrocław gnomes are still a playful tribute to the ideology as much as buffoonery. During communism, any Orange Alternative without the politics. Not that it was ever anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted about politics anyway. The gnomes are not confined to the over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the city centre, so it isn’t really possible to find them all on your pranksters of the Orange Alternative painted over them again own (although trying to do so can be a fun alternative to with...gnomes. From there gnomes became inexorably linked regular sight-seeing). For an easier way to track them down, with the Orange Alternative and Wrocław, though they began the local tourist office - located at Rynek 14 (A-3) - has appearing in other major cities in Poland as well. Detained in produced a map showing where the 30 most central ones a Łódz police station for graffiti, Major Fydrych was happy to are located. There is also a special, dual-language (Polish explain the gnomes to state authorities in academic terms: and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www. “The thesis is the anti-regime slogan. The anti-thesis is the krasnale.pl. – where you can find their history, photos and spot and the synthesis is the gnome.” Spoken like a true art useful information along with downloadable maps with history student. As the Orange Alternative graduated to more gnome locations throughout the city. Spend an afternoon happenings, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as a gnome-hunter and see how many of the mischievous as well. International Children’s Day on June 1, 1988, was miscreants you can spot as you stroll around the city. Happy celebrated in Wrocław by dozens of locals dressed as gnomes hunting. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
  5. 5. 8 ARRIVING & TRANSPORT ARRIVING & TRANSPORT 9 we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, By Bus which raises the question of where to put it. Free parking By Train Train station International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal, is available at Arkady Wrocławskie (B-5, next to the railway Wrocław’s main train station (Dworzec Głowny, B-6) is Dworzec Centralny, immediately behind the railway station station, and note only the first hour is free, and although you presently undergoing major renovation works on the entire on ul. Sucha (B-6). As you might expect it doesn’t make the can leave your car here overnight, the place is closed from building, including tracks, platforms, facilities and even the greatest first impression; grim and uncouth, the bus station 11pm-6am). The multi-storey car park on ul. Rzeźnicza, next area surrounding the train station. Works are not scheduled also serves as the city’s unofficial day care centre for drunks to the Sofitel (A-2) charges 6zł per hour or 100zł day. Some to be complete until 2012. and lunatics, no doubt driven to madness by the overriding hotels have limited parking spaces, so check when booking To deal with this, the city has essentially shut off access to unhelpfulness of the people working at the ticket windows. your room. Street parking is of course available by seeking 90% of the station complex and set up a temporary station The purchase of tickets can be attempted at any number of out the large blue signs with the letter ‘P’ on them. Tickets building (Dworzec Tymczasowy) at ul. Sucha 10/12 courtesy of PKP windows, each of which has its own overly-complex opening are available from parking meters and those wishing to park (B-6), on the eastern side of the main station complex. In this hours, though we know at least one is always available be- in the city centre will be charged 3zł for the first hour, 3.60zł temporary building there are 18 ticket windows and you’ll find One of the city’s most impressive buildings is its train tween 05:30 and 21:30; for international (międzynarodowe) for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third. Thereafter you’ll most everything else you need, including an information point, station. Originally built in the years 1855 – 1857 to tickets, try platform number 4. In Wrocław’s bus station you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour. Outside of the city centre these 3 ATMs (bankomats), 2 toilets (one for disabled people), lockers form the starting point of the Oberschlesische Eisen- also find toilets (open 06:00 - 22:00, 2zł - after that use the charges sink to 2zł for the first hour, 2.10zł the second, and and vending machines with coffee and sandwiches. Outside the bahn (Upper Silesian Railway) it replaced an earlier automatic ones near the platforms, the cost is 1zł), an ATM 2.20zł for the third. After that it’s 2zł per hour. building on the sidewalk street vendors have also set up selling structure built 1841-1842. Its designer was Royal just outside the main entrance and a currency exchange Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7. food and drinks, as well as kiosks with phone cards and the like. Prussian architect Wilhelm Grapow and although it (open 08:00 - 19:00) inside the main station building. Com- Guarded Parking G-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 32. Luggage storage is also available here. However, because a had only one platform it was still regarded as the pared to the bus station, the train station is somewhat up- large station complex has been condensed into a much smaller biggest station in Europe. Extended to incorporate standing and navigable, with more services on hand. Those one, travelers need to allow themselves extra time to deal 5 new covered platforms in 1899 the Neo-Gothic heading into town will likely need to go this direction anyway. By Plane with extended queues and general confusion, commotion and construction features turrets and crenulations Most of the city’s hotels and hostels are within 15 minutes Given that Wrocław already boasts one of Poland’s most disorientation. This cannot be stressed heavily enough. although much of this will be hidden from view until walk of the bus station and taking public transport doesn’t efficient (if hardly big and modern) airports, the city should The area has been well-marked. If departing from Wrocław by the spring of 2012. As part of a massive nationwide make a ton of sense unless you know exactly why you’re think itself lucky that a brand new one is being built a few train, follow ul. Piłsudskiego (B-5) east, following the crowds and renovation program the station is the subject of a doing so. If at a loss, jump in a MPT Radio Taxi (71 191 91). hundred meters from the current terminal building. It should signs to Dworzec Tymczasowy. You will make a right into a 293 million zloty redevelopment which will see the Wrocław Główny Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny open in time for the European Football Championships tunnel where there is platform access; you must pass through building returned to its former glory while the station PKS) B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. (+48) 71 333 05 30. in 2012, although whether that means a day before the this tunnel to the other side to reach the new station building facilities themselves will be completely modernised. tournament starts or a month before, we are not about to and ticket windows. If pressed for time, remember that you can The surrounding area will also benefit from the devel- hazard any guesses. buy tickets from the conductor onboard the train for a small opment with new green areas created around a new By Car Right now, the sturdy old Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus price mark-up. If you are arriving in Wrocław, following the signs transport hub. In the meantime the ticket office has Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, Airport (in Polish Port Lotniczy im. Mikołaja Kopernika we to ‘Centrum Miasto’ - the city centre – is pretty straightforward been moved to a temporary building located on the a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure Wrocławiu) does a fine job in ushering people in and out of and will put you on ulica Piłsudskiego (B-5). opposite side of the platforms. Give yourself a little of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road the city. Just 13 km west of the city centre you will be through Wrocław Temporary Train Station (Dworzec additional time to negotiate the diversions which are surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of traffic and, passport control and baggage claim in minutes, at which Tymczasowy) B-6, ul. Sucha 10/12, tel. (+48) 197 currently in place. most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We 57, www.pkp.pl. Q Ticket office Open 24hrs. in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. recommend using one of the ATMs (there were at least three While the road quality issue is being addressed with EU di- at the last count) as the currency exchange desk offers what rectives and funding, the size of the country’s road network we might politely term to be ‘not the best exchange rates in means that it will still be years before results are seen in Poland.’ You will also find press stores, an information desk many places. Almost all roads outside of urban areas are (of sorts), a refreshment kiosk and a snack bar. There are also a single lane in each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably usually lots of friendly young volunteers in orange t-shirts run- bogged down by the fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as ning around ready to answer any questions you might have. well as the odd farmer in a horse-cart. This results in impa- The easiest way into town is to jump into one of the taxis sit- tient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then ting outside. Alas that is also the easiest way to be parted with braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be cautious and every penny you might have in your wallet. Instead, take your keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. time and look for a taxi from a trusted Wroclaw taxi company. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities That means, MPT (tel. 71 191 91), Taxi Blues (tel. 71 196 61), (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur- Taxi Plus (tel. 601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr If you do not see one, call one. The fare into the city centre with on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched an honest cabbie should be around 40zł; a little more at night. on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, Quite frankly though, given the relatively short distance into replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper town you might just as well hop on the bus. Tickets cost registration and insurance documents. Poland also has 2.40zl and can be bought from the press stores inside the strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2% is the maximum blood/ terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop. alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU Buses run roughly every half an hour from 05:18 - 23:09 citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they (05:27 - 23:09 on Saturdays and Sundays). Particularly bulky are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the pieces of luggage warrant an extra charge of 1.20zl but we Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find have never seen this rule enforced. their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we For flight and travel information, call tel. (+48) 71 358 13 know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and 81. Live arrival and departure information can also be had at passport at all times when driving. the airport’s excellent website, www.airport.wroclaw.pl/en. One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 con- *Note that the access road to the airport is currently being nects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole widened ahead of the opening of the new terminal. This has and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised, led to some serious traffic jams, and long delays, especially meanwhile one-way and seemingly accessible streets that during the early evening rush hour. Make sure you leave are actually only available to permit holders make driving in yourself plenty of time to get to the airport. the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Port traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem Lotniczy Wrocław im. Mikołaja Kopernika) ul. as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty min- Skarżyńskiego 36, tel. (+48) 71 358 13 81, www. utes to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, airport.wroclaw.pl. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011
  6. 6. 10 ARRIVING & TRANSPORT ARRIVING & TRANSPORT 11 This summer the city has introduced special ‘cyclist friendly’ lines Car Rental Joka B-5, ul. Kościuszki 34 (Pałacyk), tel. (+48) 601 Public Transport (133, 110, 609, 100, 120, 115, 130, 109), with buses adapted 54 53 69, www.joka.com. Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly to transit bikes. The destination of most of these lines are the Avis A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego pl. A wide range of cars from extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You`ll rarely forest areas surrounding Wrocław: excellent cycling territory. 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many (+48) 71 372 35 67, www. affordable hotels and some sights are located outside the avis.pl. Internationally trusted service offering a range station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available. centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train Taxis of vehicles from sedan to mini-vans. Avis also has a desk Special rates offered to those who order through the station (B-6), Plac Dominikański (C-3), and Plac Jana Pawła II Rogue taxis are still a problem in Wrocław especially around at the airport (ul. Skarżyńskiego 36, tel. 601 35 48 11) Joka website. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. (E-4). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with the train station. Make sure that your cab has a rate card in the but you must arrange in advance to pick up or drop off Sun open on request. irregular night buses running after that. Buy tickets from any window and the driver turns the metre on and you should be fine. a car there. Q Open 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. kiosk marked “Ruch” and most marked “Prasa” (press) for Under Polish law the driver is now obliged to give you a printed Sun Open on request. 2.40zł. Look for a sign saying “Bilety MPK”. Most transport receipt for your fare. In some instances it is possible to pay by stops, and some trams and buses now have automatic ticket credit card but do ask before hand. On the whole you’ll pay an MiCaR ul. Kamieńskiego 12 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71 machines, some of which require exact change to use them. initial 6zł fee, before being charged from 3zł per kilometre. Note Budget ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. (+48) 71 325 19 49, www.micar.pl. Q Open 08:00-18:00, Sat Press button No1 for a normal full-price ticket, No 2 for a student that after 22:00 you’ll be paying a premium night tariff. Prices also 353 77 50, www.budget.pl. Q Open 08:00-22:00. Sat, 08:00-14:00. Sun open on request. ticket. A few major stops now have funky new touch screen rise at weekends and if travelling outside the city limits. Sun Open on request. ticket machines, with multi-language displays. Tickets can also be bought from the driver after 8pm for no extra charge but he/ Lux Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxra- Europcar ul. Rickshaws she will use the presence of a ticket machine as an excuse to diotaxi.pl. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Air- Rikszoland Rynek, tel. be unhelpful; your other passengers will be easier to negotiate MPT Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 71 191 91, www.919.com. port), tel. (+48) 71 358 (+4 8) 602 4 3 47 55. A with if you need change for a large note. Night buses (nocne) cost pl. Taxi Blues tel. (+48) 71 196 61, www.taxiblues.pl. 12 91, www.europcar.com.pl. Offering both short novel way to get about town 2.80zł. Note that ISIC or other non-Polish student ID is still valid Taxi Plus tel. (+48) 601 70 07 53. and long-term rental options with eight different catego- and to see the major sites is for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID. ries of car available to suit your specific needs. Excel- to jump onto one of the rick- Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid lence in service with benefits tailored to your individual shaws which you’ll find parked until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. If the Par tner Taxi , tel. requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports up at various points around conductor catches you without a properly punched ticket, (+48) 71 196 27, www. including Wrocław Copernicus. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. the main square. These 2-3 you’ll owe the city of Wroclaw 100zł if you pay within a week, partner-taxi.pl. Partner’s seater vehicles will take you on or 120zł if they don’t get the money within seven days. Plus high-quality service make a tour of the old town area and the price of the original ticket them your best bet for Germaz ul. Strzegomska 139 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) even out as far as the airport. The best option for tourists is to get the 48hrs (18/9zł) or a cab in Wrocław. Operating clean cars of the same 605 23 33 33, www.germazrent.pl. Q Open 08:00- Make sure to agree on a price 72hrs (24/12zł) ticket which is valid on all public transport distinctive make, from Partner you can request an 19:00, Sat 08:00-14:00. Sun Open on request. beforehand with your driver. in and around the city. English-speaking driver or child’s car seat, and when Hertz ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. (+48) 71 QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a 353 77 43, www.hertz.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘w dni credit card to get home. Sat 08:00 - 12:30, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011
  7. 7. 12 BASICS BASICS 13 down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if Basic Data you’re luck is really low you may find yourself having the day- Market Values Mail & Phones lights beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes Territory in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers will smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted. increases over the last couple of years particularly in Internet Cafes and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday Intermax A-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus products and prices. 794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Printing, copying and faxing (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the Customs Market values as of 29th April 2011 based on services also available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take €1 = 3.94zł 09:00 - 23:00. 4zł/hour. (103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km). 10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Navigator B-3, ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 59 Product Price (zł) Price (€) Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from McDonalds Big Mac 8.90 zł € 2.26 62. Printing and cd-burning available. QOpen 09:00 - Longest River Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a 24:00. 4zł/hour. The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at Snickers 1.39 zł € 0.35 ‘cultural good’ and must be authorised before it can leave the 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 21.99 zł € 5.58 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław country. If the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 zł € 0.71 Post (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojew- 0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 zł € 1.78 Post Office B-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 sits on the Oder (Odra) River (854km) which flows through ódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German bor- Loaf of white bread 2.19 zł € 0.56 38, www.poczta-polska.pl. Typically efficient Polish book was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from 20 Marlboros 11.40 zł € 2.89 post office. Q Open 24hrs. der before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL. the National Library to take it out of Poland. 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.48 zł € 1.39 TNT Wrocławska 33d, Długołęka, tel. (+48) 71 324 Highest Point Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.40 zł € 0.61 03 24, www.tnt.com. Door-to-door service. QOpen The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the Electricity 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 10:30. Closed Sun. Tatra Mountains along the country’s southern border with Slovakia. Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your Public Phones the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Kraków Population (2009) convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home, though and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such have made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many Poland - 38.135.876 if arriving without one, try your luck with hotel reception; they transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo. are new and actually work. Almost all of them require Warsaw - 1.709.781 should be able to point you to an electrical store if unable to you use a phone card with an electronic chip, which Kraków - 754.624 provide a convertor themselves. can be obtained at most kiosks, but not all, so it may Łódź - 747.152 Money take some perseverance to track one down. The magic Wrocław - 632.162 Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł words are ‘Proszę kartę telefoniczną.’ Thesee calling cell Poznań - 557.264 Health & Emergency notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, p cards run down very fast if you arhones, so if you plan Gdańsk - 455.581 In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar on making many such calls, get the biggest one you can Katowice - 309.621 public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying find. Ring-a-ling. Sopot - 38.821 an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and Local Time to the relevant department. English speaking assistance anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic provide better value than the banks in your home country Religion (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław, it’s 06:00 in New capabilities of the operator. or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and Between June 1st and September 30th however, English, Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts German and Russian speakers have the option of using a sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress: Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destina- unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a tion, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country turned to the church for solace and during the communist Twin Towns mobile phone for troubles during hightourist season. less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having said that, era underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously Breda, Dresden, Charlotte, Guadalajara, Hradec Králové, If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul Izmir, Kaunas, La Vienne, Lviv, Ramat Gan, Skopje, swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is Toronto, Wiesbaden some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł. understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Booze in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign Quick Currency Convertor average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish PLN US$ Euro Pound country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being Climate 2.65zł = $1 3.94zł = €1 4.42zł = £1 enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves 80 Rainfall 20 1 zł $0.38 € 0.25 £0.23 the droves that flock to mass. When visiting Wrocław’s many as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a szar- Temperature 18 2 zł $0.75 € 0.51 £0.45 churchs and cathedrals, tourists should remember that these 70 lotka - a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a 3 zł $1.13 € 0.76 £0.68 are not museums, but active places of worship to be treated 16 blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks 60 4 zł $1.51 € 1.02 £0.90 with appropriate respect. hankering for something a little more fiery should look no 14 5 zł $1.89 € 1.27 £1.13 6 zł $2.26 € 1.52 £1.36 Temperature (°C) 50 further than ordering a Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of 12 Safety Rainfall (mm) vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing 7 zł $2.64 € 1.78 £1.58 40 10 stars. One more to look for, a specialty hailing from Gdańsk, 8 zł $3.02 € 2.03 £1.81 In general Wrocław is far safer than most Western cities, is Goldwasser - a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf. 30 8 9 zł $3.40 € 2.28 £2.04 and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply 6 10 zł $3.77 € 2.54 £2.26 employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If 20 20 zł $7.55 € 5.08 £4.52 should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or 4 you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure 50 zł $18.87 € 12.69 £11.31 a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not 10 2 100 zł $37.74 € 25.38 £22.62 it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Wrocław’s premier drunk inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by 150 zł $56.60 € 38.07 £33.94 tank (ul. Sokolnicza 16/20) will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 0 0 car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 200 zł $75.47 € 50.76 £45.25 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set Institute of Meteorology and Water Management, overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes 250 zł $94.34 € 63.45 £56.56 of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling va- www.imgw.pl 1 000 zł $377.36 € 253.81 £226.24 connecting Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette grants. Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped or a sleeper cabin. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011
  8. 8. 14 BASICS CULTURE & EVENTS 15 Culturally Wrocław has grown into one of the most ex- Language Smarts National Holidays citing cities in Poland, giving Kraków’s claim to ‘cultural Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy capital’ an earnest run for the money. With an esteemed May 1 Labour Day opera, puppet, pantomime and song theatre troupes, a command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) clutch of great museums and galleries, and a festival spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ June 12, 2011 Pentecost Sunday calendar luring more high-profile international acts each the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a June 23, 2011 Corpus Christi year, Wrocław has something to offer everyone. Check reasonable understanding. August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, here to see what’s on each month, and don’t miss the Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often also Polish Army Day result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your National, Ethnographic and Architecture museums, or November 1 All Saints’ Day Galeria Awangarda before leaving town. Great live music flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) can regularly be heard in Firlej and Szepty music clubs, On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great December 25 First Day of Christmas or to step far outside the mainstream head to CRK. help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination December 26 Second Day of Christmas Enjoy Wrocław. of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in January 1 New Year’s Day English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. January 6 Three Kings Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday Art Galleries ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ April 9, 2012 Easter Monday Arttrakt B-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 1/1, tel. (+48) ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ 502 58 19 05, www.arttrakt.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Basic pronunciation of consonants Tipping City Gallery (Galeria Miejska) A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for 28, tel. (+48) 71 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska. ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be Admission free. ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje’ Galeria Awangarda B -3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32, ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the sign that you tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl.QOpen ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Wed ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ get very expensive. We have heard instances of a customer admisson free. ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ leaving a 200zl note for an 80zł meal and then having to M Odwach Gallery A-4, ul. Świdnicka 38a, tel. (+48) r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but chase down the cheeky waitress to ask for the change. And 71 372 44 96, www.galeriam.com. Also at Stare Jatki one syllable. while this is an extreme case, this happens far more often 10. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. that you’d expect. To put things into context, even though Admission free. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get salaries have risen for wait staff in the last couple of years Tkacka Na Jatkach Gallery A-2, ul. Jatki 19/23, you started. thanks to a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress tel. (+48) 71 344 38 78, www.galeria.md4.pl.QOpen Civilities would be receiving around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. cześć (cheshch) hi/bye above assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole days WRO Art Centre B-4, ul. Widok 7, tel. (+48) 71 dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/ salary. Nice work if you can get it. 343 32 40, www.wrocenter.pl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, afternoon Tue 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make Admission free. tak (tahk) yes you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything back nie (nyeh) no b) conveniently disappear having pocketed your change or proszę (prosheh) please c) play the fool and suggest that it is your fault. We suggest Cinemas na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers that you only say thank you if you are happy for the wait Helios Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel. (+48) dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry staff to keep the change. Otherwise we advise you to use 71 355 53 55, www.heliosnet.pl.QBox office open from kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you the word ‘prosze’ only when handing back the bill and the 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets 14-28zł. Mam na imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is payment. One final tip and this is to demonstrate we are Lalka Cinema H-3, ul. Prusa 32, tel. (+48) 71 792 Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England not completely anti wait staff. If you add a tip to your credit 44 05, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office open from Necessities card payment the wait-staff have to pay tax on it. Anything one hour before the first showtime until the last showtime. Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets? that you give in cash probably isn’t declared. So if you do Tickets 13/15zł. Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee Do you (male/female) receive good service we urge you to reward it and to make Lwów Cinema ul. Hallera 15 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 po angielsku? pan/panee po speak English? a tip in the form of cash. 793 50 78, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office open from angyelskoo?) one hour before the first showtime until the last showtime. Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish Tickets 13/15zł. polsku polskoo) Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh Please write it down Toilets Warszawa NOT Hall A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64, tel. napeesatch) Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a cir- (+48) 71 342 12 46, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here? cle for women, and a triangle for men. Some restaurants open from one hour before the first showtime until the last paleech?) and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities; showtime. Tickets 13/15zł. Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please this is a practice also used in train stations and most public poproszę prosheh) conveniences. Keep small change handy. Numbers Cultural Centres 1 jeden yehden Toilet A-3, Pl. Solny Impart Art Centre (Centrum Sztuki Impart) D-3, 2 dwa dva Toilet B-1, Pl. Św. Macieja ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 28 16, www. 3 trzy tshi impart.art.pl. Q Box office open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed 10 dziesięć jayshench Sat, Sun. General Water Wrocław Center for Jewish Culture and Educa- Airport lotnisko Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the qual- tion (Centrum Kultury i Edukacji Żydowskiej Train station dworzec pkp ity of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the Fundacji Bente Kahan) E- 4, The White Stork Bus station dworzec pks Right/left prawo/lewo water that is delivered to your tap. We therefore recommend Synagogue, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 One ticket to jeden bilet do that you use bottled water which is widely available and inex- 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa pensive. The best known bottled water brands are Żywiec, Sat, Sun. Admission fee depends on the exhibition, check Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Nałęczowianka. website for details. Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011

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