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Topic 2Topic 2
Shedding Mechanisms vsShedding Mechanisms vs
F b iF b iFabricsFabrics
What does shedding doWhat does shedding doWhat does shedding doWhat does shedding do
• Shedding is one of the 5 loom motions
– The others are weft insertion, beat-up, take-up, and
let-off
• Shedding separate the yarn sheet delivered
from the weavers beam into two levels to form a
space (shed) to allow a pick of weft yarn to be
inserted.
• The way the warp sheet is separated dependsy p p p
on the weave design of the fabric.
General requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shed
S ll t ibl l t ibl• Smallest possible : lowest possible
additional warp tension
• Clear enough : preventing faults
• Proper shed dwelling : convenient for weftProper shed dwelling : convenient for weft
insertion
Smooth movement of the heald frames• Smooth movement of the heald frames
(mechanism dependent) : low noise, low
parts damage and less fabric fa lts thisparts damage, and less fabric faults, this
also affects the loom speed
Types of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanisms
F diff t t f h ddi• Four different types of shedding
mechanisms are available for looms:
– Crank shedding mechanism (simplest)
– Tappet shedding mechanismpp g
– Dobby shedding mechanism
– Jacquard shedding mechanism (most complex)Jacquard shedding mechanism (most complex)
• Choice of shedding mechanisms
determines the scope of fabrics that can bedetermines the scope of fabrics that can be
made
How does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism work
Features of crank sheddingFeatures of crank sheddingFeatures of crank sheddingFeatures of crank shedding
• The simplest
• No need for maintenanceNo need for maintenance
• Does not put limit on loom speed
• Controlling only 2 heald frames – plain
weave (and weft backed weaves) onlyea e (a d e t bac ed ea es) o y
• No shed dwelling, working width of loom
limited to 200 cmlimited to 200 cm
How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work
N tiNegative
Tappet is also
known as camsknown as cams.
Basic principle:p p
Cam followers
follow the cam
profilesp
How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work
Positive - 1
How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work
Positive - 2
Features of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet shedding
• Simple principle, easy maintenance
• Low installation cost• Low installation cost
• Mechanism robust and reliable
• No limit on loom speed
Controlling 2 8 heald frames thus only• Controlling 2-8 heald frames, thus only
suitable for fabric with simple weaves
• Inconvenience for frequent pattern
changeschanges
D bbD bbDobbyDobby
How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work
Negati eNegative
How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work
How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work
PositivePositive
Features of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby shedding
• Controlling large number (2-36) of heald
frames, therefore suitable for weaving wide, g
range of fabrics
Plain and simple weaves– Plain and simple weaves
– Weaves with medium complexity
• Convenient for pattern change
• Posing limit on loom speed• Posing limit on loom speed
• Occasional shedding errors (early versions)
5 October. Next time – jacquard mechanism
JacquardJacquardJacquardJacquard
Types of JacquardTypes of JacquardTypes of JacquardTypes of Jacquard
• Coarse pitch (English pitch)
– 200, 400, 600, 800 needles, , ,
• Fine pitch (French pitch)
Vi i 880 1320 dl– Vincenzi: 880, 1320 needles
– Verdol: 896, 1344, 2688 needles
How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q
E li hEnglish
typey
How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q
How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q
French
type
HarnessHarnessHarnessHarness
managementmanagementgg
Features of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard shedding
• Capable of weaving all types of fabrics,
from the simplest to the most complexp p
fabrics
Mostly used for weaving complex fabrics– Mostly used for weaving complex fabrics
– Not economical for weaving simple fabrics
• Posing speed limit on loom
• Complex mechanismComplex mechanism
Mechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquard
Electronic jacquardElectronic jacquardElectronic jacquardElectronic jacquard
Comparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanisms
Crank Tappet Dobby Jacquard
Mechanism Simplest Simple Quite
complex
Most
complex
Installation
cost
Low Low Medium High
Yarn control 2 ends
Collective
2-8 ends
Collective
2-36 ends
Collective
2-1000s
Individual
Fabric types Plain w
fabrics
Simple w
fabrics
Fancy
fabrics
Complex
fabrics
Shed geometryShed geometry
Equal tension Unequal tension Unequal tension
Shed timingShed timingShed timingShed timing
90°
180°0° 1800
270°
Late shedding
270°
Early shedding
Effect shed timingEffect shed timingEffect shed timingEffect shed timing
• Early shedding
– larger shed angle at beat-
up
• Late shedding
– small shed angle at beat-
upup
– helpful in weaving fabrics
with high weft density
up
– small resistance to beat-
up
– clear shed
– better fabric hand
(fullness)
– lower end breakage
– clear weave pattern on
fabric(fullness)
– more likely to produce
end breaks
fabric
– less likely to achieve
higher weft density
– used for plain fabrics – used for twill and satin
fabrics
11 October 2010

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Woven Shedding Mechanisms

  • 1. Topic 2Topic 2 Shedding Mechanisms vsShedding Mechanisms vs F b iF b iFabricsFabrics
  • 2. What does shedding doWhat does shedding doWhat does shedding doWhat does shedding do • Shedding is one of the 5 loom motions – The others are weft insertion, beat-up, take-up, and let-off • Shedding separate the yarn sheet delivered from the weavers beam into two levels to form a space (shed) to allow a pick of weft yarn to be inserted. • The way the warp sheet is separated dependsy p p p on the weave design of the fabric.
  • 3. General requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shedGeneral requirements on shed S ll t ibl l t ibl• Smallest possible : lowest possible additional warp tension • Clear enough : preventing faults • Proper shed dwelling : convenient for weftProper shed dwelling : convenient for weft insertion Smooth movement of the heald frames• Smooth movement of the heald frames (mechanism dependent) : low noise, low parts damage and less fabric fa lts thisparts damage, and less fabric faults, this also affects the loom speed
  • 4. Types of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanismsTypes of shedding mechanisms F diff t t f h ddi• Four different types of shedding mechanisms are available for looms: – Crank shedding mechanism (simplest) – Tappet shedding mechanismpp g – Dobby shedding mechanism – Jacquard shedding mechanism (most complex)Jacquard shedding mechanism (most complex) • Choice of shedding mechanisms determines the scope of fabrics that can bedetermines the scope of fabrics that can be made
  • 5. How does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism workHow does crank mechanism work
  • 6. Features of crank sheddingFeatures of crank sheddingFeatures of crank sheddingFeatures of crank shedding • The simplest • No need for maintenanceNo need for maintenance • Does not put limit on loom speed • Controlling only 2 heald frames – plain weave (and weft backed weaves) onlyea e (a d e t bac ed ea es) o y • No shed dwelling, working width of loom limited to 200 cmlimited to 200 cm
  • 7. How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work N tiNegative Tappet is also known as camsknown as cams. Basic principle:p p Cam followers follow the cam profilesp
  • 8. How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work Positive - 1
  • 9. How does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism workHow does tappet mechanism work Positive - 2
  • 10. Features of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet sheddingFeatures of tappet shedding • Simple principle, easy maintenance • Low installation cost• Low installation cost • Mechanism robust and reliable • No limit on loom speed Controlling 2 8 heald frames thus only• Controlling 2-8 heald frames, thus only suitable for fabric with simple weaves • Inconvenience for frequent pattern changeschanges
  • 12. How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work Negati eNegative
  • 13. How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work
  • 14. How does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism workHow does dobby mechanism work PositivePositive
  • 15. Features of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby sheddingFeatures of dobby shedding • Controlling large number (2-36) of heald frames, therefore suitable for weaving wide, g range of fabrics Plain and simple weaves– Plain and simple weaves – Weaves with medium complexity • Convenient for pattern change • Posing limit on loom speed• Posing limit on loom speed • Occasional shedding errors (early versions) 5 October. Next time – jacquard mechanism
  • 17. Types of JacquardTypes of JacquardTypes of JacquardTypes of Jacquard • Coarse pitch (English pitch) – 200, 400, 600, 800 needles, , , • Fine pitch (French pitch) Vi i 880 1320 dl– Vincenzi: 880, 1320 needles – Verdol: 896, 1344, 2688 needles
  • 18. How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q E li hEnglish typey
  • 19. How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q
  • 20. How does a jacquard workHow does a jacquard workj qj q French type
  • 22. Features of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard sheddingFeatures of jacquard shedding • Capable of weaving all types of fabrics, from the simplest to the most complexp p fabrics Mostly used for weaving complex fabrics– Mostly used for weaving complex fabrics – Not economical for weaving simple fabrics • Posing speed limit on loom • Complex mechanismComplex mechanism
  • 23. Mechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquardMechanical and electronic jacquard
  • 25. Comparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanismsComparison of the 4 mechanisms Crank Tappet Dobby Jacquard Mechanism Simplest Simple Quite complex Most complex Installation cost Low Low Medium High Yarn control 2 ends Collective 2-8 ends Collective 2-36 ends Collective 2-1000s Individual Fabric types Plain w fabrics Simple w fabrics Fancy fabrics Complex fabrics
  • 26. Shed geometryShed geometry Equal tension Unequal tension Unequal tension
  • 27. Shed timingShed timingShed timingShed timing 90° 180°0° 1800 270° Late shedding 270° Early shedding
  • 28. Effect shed timingEffect shed timingEffect shed timingEffect shed timing • Early shedding – larger shed angle at beat- up • Late shedding – small shed angle at beat- upup – helpful in weaving fabrics with high weft density up – small resistance to beat- up – clear shed – better fabric hand (fullness) – lower end breakage – clear weave pattern on fabric(fullness) – more likely to produce end breaks fabric – less likely to achieve higher weft density – used for plain fabrics – used for twill and satin fabrics 11 October 2010