12 Fowl Recipes – Quick Guide to Cooking Delicious
Fowl presents something of a problem in a book designed for the hurried cook. Except for
chicken, most poultry is at its best when roasted at a low, even heat or turned on a spit under
the same conditions. Either method is slow. Goose, turkey, domestic duck, peacock, swan,
guinea, and the dodo, if you can find one, are large and need from two to six hours of
cooking. Even to broil a duck or roast a pheasant is too time-consuming for this book. In
addition, most poultry requires some form of dressing, stuffing, or filling—depending on
one's regional background—whose preparation will occupy you for some time before you can
even start to cook the bird.
No one of those reasons or all of them together seemed sufficiently cogent to eliminate a
section on fowl, which form the basis for some delightful dishes. I accordingly selected a
number of chicken recipes which are quick, and rounded out the dozen with methods for
cooking three smaller birds and with two recipes, useful at any time but especially so at
Thanksgiving or Christmas, to help use up leftover turkey.
Inclusion among the chickens of a recipe for chicken livers may seem out of place, but the
result is so appetizing—sometimes even startling—that I could not forbear using it, and
where else could it go if not with chicken?
The recipes for small fowl, that is, game hen, quail, and squab, are more or less
interchangeable. Each bird is good when cooked in the mode of either of the others, although
I think the recipe selected for each suits that specific bird better than it does the other two.
Almost any fowl, especially chicken, may be substituted for turkey in the two final recipes.
They were, however, designed specifically for turkey and bring out its flavour to the best
advantage. If you do not like turkey, and presumably some people do not or cannot get it, but
like the recipes, try guinea. You will be both surprised and pleased by the result.
CHICKEN TETRAZZINI SERVES 4
Opera stars have given their names to many recipes, among them: Spaghetti Caruso, Mary
Garden Salad, Peach Melba, and Chicken Tetrazzini. The last, invented by Pavani when he
was chef of the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York City, has become a standard item on most
restaurant menus, not only because of its merit, which is great, but also because it may be
appropriately served at any meal, from luncheon to late supper. It is said that on a day when
the great soprano was indisposed, this recipe was concocted to tempt her appetite. But then
the diva's talent for eating was surpassed only by her talent for singing. Regardless of its
inception, it is a very handy recipe to have around. The chicken should be cut into thin strips,
but if freshly cooked chicken is not available you may substitute jarred or tinned chicken cut
into moderate pieces. The recipe also calls for truffles. These may be, and frequently are,
½ POUND THIN SPAGHETTI
2 TINS CONDENSED CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP
1 CUP CREAM
4 TABLESPOONS SHERRY
¼ TEASPOON GRATED NUTMEG
½ POUND FRESH MUSHROOMS, THINLY SLICED
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
2 CUPS COOKED CHICKEN, CUT INTO THIN STRIPS
½ CUP THINLY SLICED TRUFFLES
¼ CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
Cook the spaghetti in a large quantity of rapidly boiling, salted water until tender, about ten
minutes. In a saucepan over a low fire, put the condensed chicken soup and thin it into a
sauce with the cream, stirring well with a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Add the sherry,
the nutmeg, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sauté the thinly sliced mushrooms in the
butter until golden brown. (If you use tinned mushroom bits and pieces, they need not be
cooked.) Drain the spaghetti. Stir it and the sautéed mushrooms into half of the sauce; into the
other half stir the chicken and the sliced truffles. Grease a deep fireproof dish well with
butter, and put the spaghetti and mushrooms into it. Make a hole in this mixture, and pour the
chicken into that. Cover the whole with the grated cheese, place the dish in a moderate oven
(315° degrees), and cook until the cheese is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and
Peas alone among vegetables go well with this dish, and even they seem unnecessary. If you
follow it with Mixed Green Salad II (qv) you will have about all you require for a substantial
meal. You should serve wine with Chicken Tetrazzini. It does not matter too much what kind,
so long as it is light. And while it may be heresy to say so, I like red Chianti. Fragole Marsala
(qv) would be both appropriate and good for dessert.
CHICKEN CARILLON SERVES 4
The name of this recipe might suggest that it had its origin in a medieval French monastery or
that it was concocted by a Gallic bell ringer's beautiful daughter. The latter would be nearer
the mark, but neither is true. The dish was invented in Washington when a man was conjured
by a highly placed witch woman into cooking her dinner and, no doubt as some orphic test,
was given only a frying chicken with which to do it. When he protested the paucity of
ingredients, the witch woman handed him a tin of minced clams and a bottle of cream,
together with an admonition, "I have given you three items, and that is enough; be off to the
kitchen." Thus admonished and equipped, he produced the following enchanting dish.
½ CUP FLOUR
1 TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON PEPPER
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 CHICKEN, JOINTED
½ PINT CREAM
1 SMALL TIN MINCED CLAMS
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Sift the flour into a paper bag, add salt and pepper, and shake well. Into this bag place the
pieces of chicken, two or three at a time, and shake them up to dredge the chicken. Melt the
butter slowly in a skillet, and when the butter is hot, turn up the flame fully and quickly sauté
the chicken on all sides until it is golden brown. Turn down the fire, pour in the cream, and
simmer the chicken for about fifteen minutes, turning it from time to time. Do not allow it to
boil. Stir in the clams and their juice, replace the cover, and simmer another five minutes.
Garnish with parsley; serve on a hot platter.
Almost all chicken dishes have a natural affinity for rice.
Chicken Carillon is no exception. Boiled or steamed rice is excellent with it Chopped
broccoli or Brussels sprouts would add to the taste as well as to the color. A Persimmon Salad
(qv) or Beet Daishe (qv) is a good choice to follow. The wine should be white, and in view of
the clams, why not a Vouvray? A Rum Omelette (qv) seems a reasonable suggestion for
CHICKEN LIVERS IVY SERVES 4
Almost as versatile as lamb or veal kidneys, chicken livers are the hurried and harried chefs
friend. Combined with eggs, they make an excellent omelette for breakfast or luncheon;
broiled en brochette with tomatoes and bacon rolls, they are fine fare for luncheon or supper;
and cooked with wine, as in this recipe, they become a splendid dish for luncheon, dinner, or
supper. With a little preliminary work in the kitchen, these livers may be prepared in a
chafing dish, but they will then require about half again as much time. For nostalgic reasons I
have named this recipe after a very famous London restaurant, where I once had livers
cooked in a somewhat similar manner. I can only hope that your experience with these will
be as pleasant as mine was with those.
l½ POUNDS CHICKEN LIVERS
3/8 CUP FLOUR
¾ TEASPOON POWDERED SAGE
1 TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
l½ CUPS CHICKEN BROTH OR CONSOMME
½ CUP MADEIRA
Cut the livers in half, remove any fat, and wash them. Place the flour in a small mixing bowl,
add the sage, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Dredge the livers with the flour mixture,
reserving what does not stick to the livers. Melt the butter in a large skillet, and when it is hot,
sauté the livers slowly, turning from time to time until they are cooked through, ten to twenty
minutes, depending on how well done you like them. Remove the livers to a warm place, and
add the remaining flour to the skillet, blending it well with the butter and the juices to make a
roux. Heat the chicken broth. Cook the roux, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until it is
brown. Remove from flame, and gradually add the chicken broth and the Madeira to make a
sauce, which should not be too thick. If it needs thinning use more broth, not more wine.
Place the chicken livers on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over them. Serve at once.
With the livers you should serve boiled rice flavoured with a few tablespoons of finely diced
and cooked green pepper and pimiento. Baked or broiled tomato halves go very well indeed
with this liver and rice combination, which might well be followed with Spinach Salad (qv)
or Salade Belgique (qv). A well-chilled Pies porter is suggested to accompany the main dish.
A Rum Omelette (qv) would conclude this meal in fine style.
CREAMED CHICKEN HASH SERVES 4
Despite its lowly position in gastronomy, and despite allegedly humorous definitions of its
content, hash can be very fine food. It need not be made from leftovers. Nor is this one.
Freshly boiled or roasted chicken will give the best results; but you may use tinned chicken,
although it is not easily diced and is apt to be stringy. Creamed chicken hash is one of the
finest dishes ever concocted for that late, lazy breakfast which opens a vacation or delights a
Sunday morning. One word of caution: tamper with the seasoning, if you will, or the size of
the pieces of chicken, but do not ever add onions or potatoes. Mushrooms, thinly sliced and
sautéed in butter, may be included, but they alter the hash considerably and are not
recommended. If you wish to serve this hash at luncheon or supper, two tablespoons of dry
sherry added to the sauce just before you bring it to the table is an excellent idea. Finally, and
most important, is the dicing of the chicken and the green pepper. Both should be
exceedingly small, particularly the latter. The chicken should be in cubes of no more than
half an inch, and the pepper should be even smaller.
1 LARGE FINELY DICED GREEN PEPPER
2 TINS CONCENTRATED CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP
½ PINT CREAM
3 CUPS FINELY DICED COOKED CHICKEN
1 TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER
Simmer the diced peppers for about five minutes in a cup of water; drain. In a saucepan, thin
the chicken soup slowly with the cream over a low fire. When the sauce has reached the
proper consistency, put in the chicken, the peppers, and the seasoning. Stir well, and continue
to cook until the hash is thoroughly hot. Serve on toast triangles or in patty shells. Garnish, if
you like, with a few pinches of paprika. For a green vegetable, either baby lima beans or
broiled tomatoes would be good selections. Better yet would be their omission in favor of an
Avocado Salad (qv). Coffee is splendid with this hash, but if you want a wine, a light one
such as Orvieto would be about right. For a dessert you might offer Bananas Senegalese (qv).
CHICKEN OPORTO SERVES 4
Few indeed are the foods whose flavour is not improved by the inclusion in their recipe of a
little wine—"for your stomach's sake," of course, or some brandy. I have even heard of
people—odd, I am sure—marinating good steak in bourbon whisky. Sherry is the normal
wine for seasoning, but chicken, which is not one of the few foods referred to above, has an
affinity also for port. This recipe produces a fine chicken dish for parties. It derives from
several other similar but much more elaborate recipes, and in my opinion is as good as any of
them. Besides being simpler and quicker than the originals, it contains fewer calories—an
item, I am told, of some consequence in certain circles. It is, nevertheless, a fairly rich dish,
and two pieces of chicken per customer will usually be sufficient. If you and your guests
enjoy the pyrotechnics of burning alcohol at the dining table, you may use a chafing dish in
the final step of Chicken Oporto.
4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
8 PIECES CHICKEN
1/3 CUP PORT
3 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
2/3 CUP CHICKEN BROTH
2/3 CUP CREAM
2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY
¼ CUP BRANDY
¼ CUP KIRSCH
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Melt the butter in a large skillet. When it is hot but not brown, put in the chicken and sauté it
over a fairly high flame for about five minutes. Turn the chicken, season with salt and pepper,
and continue to sauté it for another five minutes. Turn again, season with salt and pepper, and
continue cooking, turning occasionally for ten minutes more. Cover the pan, reduce the heat a
little, and let the chicken cook for fifteen minutes, when it should be done. Remove the
chicken to a warm place. Add the port to the juices in the skillet, and then add the flour,
stirring it well and cooking slowly to make a liquid roux. Gradually add the chicken broth
and the cream, separately. Stir them well into a sauce, which should be on the thick side. Add
the chopped parsley and cook the sauce for about five minutes over a low flame. Return the
chicken to the skillet—here is the place to introduce the chafing dish if you like—and see that
it is well covered with the sauce. Place the brandy and kirsch in a small saucepan, bring to a
boil, ignite, and pour, still blazing, over the chicken. Mix well. Place on a large platter,
garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve at once.
Photo owned by Sjschen
With this particular chicken dish, noodles are better than rice. If possible you should use
green noodles, if only to add color. Baby beets, unless you think the combination too
reminiscent of Christmas, would make a good green vegetable, as would carrots. A raw
Spinach Salad (qv) or something equally simple should follow. The wine, and this dish calls
for wine, should be white. If champagne is not to your taste—this is a good champagne
dish—the driest of Sauternes will blend very well with the chicken. Raspberry Fluff (qv),
which is very light, would make a good final course.
CHICKEN TARRAGON SERVES 4
A sumptuous dish for dinner is chicken cooked in white wine strongly impregnated with
tarragon. Recipes for this chicken vary, from the extremely simple one carried on the label of
some tarragon containers, to a very complex one reported by Alice B. Toklas in her
entertaining book on cooking for Gertrude Stein. The one described below lies between. It is
a fine dish with a subtle flavour. You may use a whole, large chicken, jointed, or buy
individual pieces. For this quantity I suggest: two breasts split, and four legs and thighs. The
broth may be made from the other parts of the chicken as described under Chicken Paprika.
Or you may make the broth from chicken extract and water, but make it strong.
l½ CUPS DRY WHITE WINE
l½ CUPS CHICKEN BROTH
4 TEASPOONS TARRAGON
1 MEDIUM ONION, SLICED COARSELY
1 CARROT, CHOPPED IN ONE-INCH PIECES
2 STALKS CELERY, CHOPPED IN TWO-INCH PIECES
5 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR CHICKEN FAT
12 PIECES CHICKEN
1 TABLESPOON FLOUR
Pour the wine and broth into a saucepan, add peppercorns, tarragon, onion, carrot, and celery.
Cover and simmer for fifteen minutes. Meanwhile melt four tablespoons of butter or chicken
fat in a large, heavy pan and sauté the chicken over a medium high flame and on all sides for
about ten minutes. Season with salt and pepper and continue to cook for another ten minutes.
Remove the celery, carrot, and onion from the wine and broth mixture, and pour it over the
chicken. Let the chicken simmer covered in this mixture for twenty minutes. While the
chicken is simmering, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter or fat in another saucepan, add
the flour, and cook over a low heat, stirring all the while, until the flour is cooked. Turn off
the fire under the roux, and gradually add and stir in about a cup and a half of the liquid from
the chicken to make a smooth, thin sauce. When the chicken is done, remove it to a hot
platter, pour half the sauce from the small saucepan over it, and serve.
Boiled rice is the perfect complement for this chicken and should be served with the other
half of the sauce which you have made with the liquid in which the chicken was simmered.
Green beans, or peas, would make a good green vegetable. Greenbrier Salad (qv) to follow
should certainly be considered, for its color if for no other reason. A Pouilly Fuissé would be
an excellent wine choice. Zabaglione (qv) is recommended for dessert.
CHICKEN PAPRIKA SERVES 4
Both chicken and veal lend themselves admirably to this mode (see Veal Paprika). Each is
good. Chicken takes a little longer to prepare, is a richer and sweeter dish, and, to my mind at
least, has a slightly greater atmosphere of formality, traceable no doubt to the fact that I was
brought up in a household where chicken was the standard Sunday dinner and veal never
served at all. It was thought, mirabile dîctu, to be indigestible. But let us leave the veal for a
later recipe and return to our chicken. Chicken stock should be used, and can be readily made
from the back, neck, and giblets of the fowl. Put them in a saucepan with a few pieces of
onion, carrot, and celery, a little salt, and some peppercorns. Add a pint of water, and simmer
for about an hour. A chicken bouillon cube would help. Strain through a fine sieve, and you
have the stock. The meat may be removed from the bones and reserved for use in some other
recipe. If you are pressed for time, you may substitute chicken consommé out of a tin, or
make it with chicken extract. This chicken is too much for luncheon but splendid for dinner
Photo owned by Kobako
1 LARGE FRYING CHICKEN, JOINTED
2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 CLOVE GARLIC, HALVED
4 TABLESPOONS PAPRIKA
¼ TEASPOON TARRAGON
l½ CUPS CHICKEN STOCK
½ PINT DOUBLE CREAM
Split the breast, dredge it, the legs, thighs, and wings with flour. Melt the butter in a large
skillet, sauté the garlic for a few minutes, add the chicken and sauté on all sides until golden
brown. Remove the garlic and add the paprika, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Pour the chicken
stock over it, stir well, and simmer, covered, over a low fire for about twenty minutes, stirring
occasionally. Transfer the contents of the skillet to an ovenproof serving dish or casserole,
and place in a moderate oven (300 degrees) for fifteen minutes, or until the chicken is tender
but not falling off the bones. Stir in the cream, return to the oven and heat through. Garnish
with parsley and serve.
Chicken Paprika is another chicken dish with which rice is not appropriate; some form of
bread, rolls, or salt sticks is much better. Whole, baby boiled onions or fresh, boiled leeks are
good green vegetables. Follow the chicken with Mixed Green Salad III (qv) and serve with it
a white wine. A Barsac or Graves will complement the flavour of the main dish. Ginger
Ching (qv) will make a sound dessert.
QUICK: QUAIL SERVES 4
The most delicate and delicious of game birds, if not, indeed, of all birds, quail, because of
their size, can be broiled whole and hence cooked more quickly than larger fowl. Unlike most
other game birds, quail need not be "hung" to bring out their best flavour and may therefore
be eaten immediately they are killed. My first experience with cooking (more accurately not
cooking) quail had its humorous aspects. I had not eaten or even seen quail and had no idea
how small they were, when a friend who had been hunting in Florida promised me a brace for
the next day. On the strength of the promise, and the assumption that the birds were about the
size of squabs, I invited another friend to help eat them. I had rather high hopes for the
occasion. The quail duly arrived, wrapped in brown paper. Even before I opened the package
it was obvious that the dinner would be on the scant side; after one look I was sure there
would be no dinner at all. The birds were splendid in their plumage, and I had no idea how to
pluck or draw them. When my guest arrived I apologized for the fact that my friend's "dog
had got into his game bag" with disastrous results for our dinner. We dined at a restaurant,
not on quail, but with satisfactory results.
Game birds dry out in cooking and must be well larded or frequently basted if they are to
remain succulent. This is especially true where the birds are exposed to direct and high heat.
Quail make a splendid main course for luncheon or dinner and shine even brighter as a game
course at a gala gathering, when one is enough for each customer. Otherwise serve two.
1 MEDIUM ONION 3 BAY LEAVES
½ CUP BUTTER
3 TABLESPOONS GRATED LEMON RIND
½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE
8 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Split the birds down the back and spread apart, but do not flatten them. Chop the onion fine,
and break the bay leaves into small pieces. Melt four tablespoons butter in a large skillet, and
sauté the chopped onion over a low heat until golden. Raise the fire, and sauté the quail
rapidly on all sides, including the inside, for about ten minutes, turning frequently.
Remove from fire. Lightly grease a flat pan or ovenproof serving platter with butter. Season
the birds well with salt and pepper inside and out. Arrange them on their backs on the greased
pan. Sprinkle the grated lemon rind on their breasts, and place on each a patty of butter. Add
the wine to the pan and put in the broken bay leaves. Place under a moderate flame (400
degrees) for five minutes. Turn the birds and baste them well. Broil for another five minutes.
Baste again and raise the heat high (500 degrees). Cook five minutes, turn the birds, and baste
once more. Continue to broil for a last five minutes. Arrange each bird on a thin piece of
buttered toast, garnish with parsley, and serve forthwith.
If you wish a starchy vegetable in addition to the toast, I suggest wild rice with gravy made
from the scrapings of the pan and the skillet. Carrots julienne or boiled baby onions would
make good green vegetables. Or omit the rice and other vegetables and serve artichokes with
melted butter. A Covent Garden Salad (qv) with a mustardy dressing would bring the meal to
a proper and fitting end. Or substitute for the salad a dessert of fresh fruit. Quick Quail is a
delicate dish and requires a delicate wine. Nothing could be more suitable than that: lovely
vin rose, Sainte Roseline from Provence.
GAME HEN LUCULLUS SERVES 4
This is not a sixty-minute recipe. It will take you more nearly ninety, and ninety minutes, we
have been assured, is a long, long time. But this recipe is too good to omit, regardless of time.
The game hen is indigenous, if such a hybrid can be called indigenous, to the United States. It
is produced by crossbreeding—the exact relationship seems to be secret—domestic chicken,
fighting cock, Cornwall fowl, and rock bird, and is sold, usually frozen, under a variety of
names. Whether it is called rock Cornish game hen, or Cornish game hen, or Cornish hen, or
rock hen, it will be much the same. It will have a large amount of white meat, small legs, and
smaller wings. It will come to you dressed, wrapped in some form of plastic bag; with its
heart, liver, and gizzard in another plastic bag inside the bird. Do not forget to remove this. I
have known it to be overlooked by the cook with surprising results to the diner. Despite its
minor physical and titular differences, this hen will make you a fine main course for dinner,
or you might with reason substitute it for a game course. The recipe below is based on fowl
weighing about twelve ounces each. The broth can be chicken stock, consommé, veal broth,
or beef bouillon.
4 GAME HENS
1 SPRIG CELERY LEAVES
1 SPRIG PARSLEY
2 SPRING ONIONS
2 STALKS CELERY
1 TIN COOKED WILD RICE
½ TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON PEPPER
½ CUP BROTH
6 RASHERS BACON
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 TABLESPOON FLOUR
1 TABLESPOON SHERRY
1 TABLESPOON WALNUT JUICE
4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS
Remove the giblets from the game hens, and wash the inside of the hens with running cold
water. Put three cups of water in a saucepan, add the giblets, the sprigs of celery and parsley,
and the peppercorns. Place over a low flame to simmer until the liquid is reduced by one half.
Mince the spring onions and the celery stalks fine. Wash the rice well in tepid running water.
Place it in a bowl and add the minced celery and onion. Season with the salt and pepper. Add
the broth and mix well. Stuff the hens with the rice mixture. Skewer the fowl. Cut the rashers
of bacon in half, and cover each hen with three pieces of bacon. Place the hens on a shallow
pan and put them in the lower half of a pre-heated moderate oven (300 degrees). Roast for
one hour. Make gravy with the butter, flour, liquid from the giblets, and season it with the
sherry and walnut juice. At the end of an hour, remove the bacon from the fowl, raise heat of
the ovento 400 degrees, place fowl in the upper half, and cook for about five minutes.
Remove the birds to a hot platter or plates, garnish with the bacon pieces and one sprig of
water cress each, and serve with the gravy on the side.
Fresh asparagus or creamed spinach would make a good accompanying vegetable. I would
suggest a Salade Belgique (qv) to follow. With the hens I would serve a solid white wine,
such as Montrachet. Cheese or fresh fruit would be the best concluding course.
SQUAB OOSTENDAISE SERVES 6
The smallest of domestic fowl, squabs have a dark, full-flavoured but delicate meat much
esteemed by invalids, convalescents, and gourmets. Like most fowl they can be prepared in
many different fashions, all of them good. The recipe below, while somewhat complex, does
not, as one might suppose from reading it, kill the fine taste of these birds, but serves rather to
bring it out. The use of juniper berries as a condiment I first met in an excellent small
restaurant in Ostend one evening while waiting for a Channel boat. I have forgotten the name
of the place and the proprietor, but if I ever return to that Belgian port, I shall make it my
business to find them both. I can only repay the proprietor in some small measure for the
pleasure I had there by naming this recipe in honor of his city. One word of caution: if juniper
berries are not available (Spice Islands supplies them), do not substitute gin; cook the squabs
some other way. This recipe makes an elegant—in the proper sense of the word—luncheon
dish, or a very fine dinner dish.
4 SPRING ONIONS
12 FRESH MUSHROOMS
1 SMALL CARROT
l8 JUNIPER BERRIES
1 TEASPOON FENNEL SEED
¼ POUND BUTTER
1 TABLESPOON FLOUR
½ CUP MARSALA
Chop the onions, including some of the green tops, small. Slice the mushrooms. Slice the
carrot very thin. Crush the juniper berries and fennel seed together in a mortar. Peel and
separate the tangerines into sections. Wash the squabs inside and out with warm water. Stuff
each squab with four tangerine sections. Melt four tablespoons butter in a heavy skillet or pot
and sauté the squabs over a high flame (turning frequently to brown all sides) for about
twenty minutes. Place the squabs in a casserole. Sauté the mushrooms in the same butter until
done, about five minutes, and pour them and the butter over the squabs. Melt the remaining
butter in the same skillet or pot, sauté the onion until soft. Add the flour and wine, stir well,
and pour over the squabs. Sprinkle them with salt, pepper, and the crushed juniper berries and
fennel seed. Cover the casserole and bake in a moderate oven (400 degrees) for half an hour.
Remove from oven, garnish with carrot slices, and serve at once.
Baby boiled new potatoes or baby boiled onions with plain spinach make good vegetable
accompaniment. Follow the squabs with a Persimmon Salad (qv). The meat of the squab is
dark, and I like a Claret with it. Burgundy is a little heavy. A good Saint-Julien or a Margaux
would be admirable—or formidable, as the French would say. Chocolate Whiffle (qv) or
Green Mint Glacé (qv) would be good dessert choices.
TURKEY PAYSAN SERVES 4
While "leftover" turkey is not so much of a problem as "leftover" ham, because it occurs less
often, it can still be a problem. One solution to it is the following recipe. It was evolved, more
or less fortuitously, as were a great many other recipes in this book, to feed unexpected guests
with the current contents of the refrigerator. In this instance it contained a turkey carcass from
which most of the breast, but very little else, had been eaten. We cut off the meat in large
chunks, broke up the bones, and boiled them, together with a cut-up onion, a stalk of celery, a
piece of carrot, a bit of parsley, and some salt and peppercorns in a quart of water to make
stock. If you are in a hurry, you can make stock for this dish with bouillon cubes, chicken
extract, or tinned turkey broth. If you have no turkey fat, butter may be substituted in equal
quantities. This is essentially an informal dish, and it could serve in a pinch as the main
course at dinner. Turkey Paysan is at its best when it appears at a Sunday night supper or a
3 LARGE STALKS CELERY
1 MEDIUM ONION
6 LARGE MUSHROOMS
6 TABLESPOONS TURKEY FAT
6 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
3 CUPS TURKEY STOCK
3 EGG YOLKS
6 CUPS TURKEY MEAT
3 TABLESPOONS GRATED CHEESE
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
Chop the celery into small dice and the onion and mushrooms into thin slices. Melt two
tablespoons of turkey fat in a skillet and sauté the celery, mushrooms, and onion until soft.
Melt the remainder of the turkey fat in a large saucepan; add the flour to make a roux. When
the roux is cooked, gradually add the hot turkey stock to make a sauce. When that has
cooked, beat the egg yolks well and add them to the sauce, stirring hard. Continue to cook
until the sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper, and add the chopped turkey meat. Put
in, now, the contents of the skillet. Stir well, and pour the mixture into a large casserole or
ovenproof serving dish. Sprinkle the top with bread crumbs and grated cheese. Dot with
butter, and put under a medium flame in the broiler until hot through and browned on top.
Serve at once.
"What "goes" with this dish will depend on the meal at which it is being served. If supper or
brunch, accompany it with Mixed Green Salad II (qv). This combination will be both
adequate and good. If it is to be a main course at dinner, which it probably will not be, serve
with it squash or Brussels sprouts, and follow it with the same salad, but in somewhat smaller
portions. The type of wine will not make too much difference, and can be red, white—one
wishes one could say "or blue"—or rose. The last is probably best—make it a Tavel. Eve's
Dessert (qv) would conclude the meal well.
TURKEY PROSCIUTTO SERVES 4
Turkey Prosciutto is one of the finest of poultry dishes and one of the easiest to prepare. You
will find it listed under various names on the menus of many fine restaurants and in most
cookbooks. Normally it is made with Virginia ham, but by replacing that with prosciutto you
will subtly alter its flavour—for the better I think— and have an estimable delicacy to serve
at formal luncheons or dinners. In addition, this recipe provides a splendid means of using
leftover turkey but is not limited to that source of supply, as sliced, cooked breast of turkey
can be had at any good delicatessen. I strongly recommend that you make the sauce from
scratch with turkey broth, which is available in tins. If for any reason you prefer not to make
it that way, you may use condensed cream of chicken soup thinned with a little cream. Frozen
broccoli spears will be almost indistinguishable from fresh broccoli. No salt is required
except for a pinch or two in the sauce, and if you use prosciutto ham you will need no pepper.
The turkey slices should be about a quarter of an inch thick, and the ham, of course,
6 MEDIUM MUSHROOMS
5 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR TURKEY FAT
2 CUPS TURKEY BROTH
4 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
¼ CUP DRY SHERRY
8 SLICES COOKED PROSCIUTTO HAM
4 SLICES COOKED TURKEY BREAST
4 COOKED BROCCOLI SPEARS
Photo owned by Jennie O
Slice the mushrooms thin. Melt three tablespoons butter or turkey fat in a skillet and when
hot, sauté the mushrooms until golden. Heat the turkey broth. Melt the remaining butter in a
saucepan; add the flour and make a roux, cooking it slowly and stirring constantly until it
turns slightly brown. Remove from fire and gradually pour in the hot broth, stirring the while,
to make a sauce. When the sauce has come to a boil, add the sherry and the sautéed
mushrooms. Lightly grease a flat baking or ovenproof serving dish. Place four slices of ham
in the bottom, and a slice of turkey breast on each slice of ham. Cover the turkey with a
second slice of ham, and put a generous spear of broccoli on each. Cover the whole with the
sauce. Put the dish into a pre-heated moderate oven (350 degrees), and cook until it is heated
through, ten to fifteen minutes. (You may wish to garnish the dish with two or three whole,
cooked cranberries for each serving.) Serve very hot. You will need no green vegetable with
this turkey. For starch I would suggest small rolls or French bread. Serve a Persimmon Salad
(qv) or a Mangoleekee Salad (qv) afterwards, and accompany the main dish with a good,
well-chilled vin rose. In this instance, I would recommend Sainte Roseline. Or you might try
champagne. Peaches Tiberius (qv) seems a fine thought for dessert.
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