Classification of knits

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Classification of knits

  1. 1. CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS 1/21/2014 By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -P
  2. 2. CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS KNITTIN G WARP TRICO T WEFT RASCH EL V BED 1/21/2014 SEAMLE SS FLAT PURL CIRCULA R SINGLE NEEDLE BED COTTON PATENT
  3. 3. WEFT KNITTING In weft knitting; • yarn is fed to knitting needles. • Needle with the help of cams, sinker make a new loop and • passed it into previously held loops. • Weft knitting is made using a single yarn. • It can be made by hand knitting or by machines. 1/21/2014
  4. 4. WEFT KNITTING Characteristics of weft knits: • The fabric has high elasticity and stretch. • The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to keep us warm. • The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different. • the fabrics can lose shape easily. • Creases fall out easily. • The fabric can unravel and ladder easily. • Weft knitted fabrics curl up at the edges when they are cut. 1/21/2014
  5. 5. TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING CIRCULAR KNITTING FLAT KNITTING 1/21/2014
  6. 6. Circular Knitting Machine 1/21/2014
  7. 7. Flat Knitting Machines 1/21/2014
  8. 8. WEFT KNITTED FABRIC 1/21/2014
  9. 9. Circular Knitting Machines In circular knitting machines needles are fixed on a cylinder or dial in a circular shape. There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to needles at different places. In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial) moves while feeders remain stationary. Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case of sock knitting machines it is changeable due to structure of socks 1/21/2014
  10. 10. FLAT KNITTING MACHINES • In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on a straight plate. • On this machine needle bed remains stationary while yarn feeding system called carriage moves from one end to other end • This machine is used to knit collars, arm bands and sweaters 1/21/2014
  11. 11. TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES SINGLE KNITTING DOUBLE KNITTING 1/21/2014
  12. 12. SINGLE KNIT MACHINE • In these machines needles are fixed on cylinder • sinker are fixed on sinker ring • Needles knit with the help of sinkers 1/21/2014
  13. 13. SINGLE KNIT MACHINE 1/21/2014
  14. 14. DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE 1/21/2014
  15. 15. DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE • In double knit machine needles are fixed on dial as well as on cylinders • There is no sinkers on this machine • This machine is used to knit interlock, rib and double jerseys 1/21/2014
  16. 16. SINKER 1=Butt, 2=Butt breadth, 3=Height of shank, 4=Buldge, 5=Neb, 6=Length of neb, 7=Throat angle, 8=Sinker platform height, 9=Breadth of lower shank, 10=Clearance, 1/21/2014 11=Throat
  17. 17. SINKER 1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves forward and the needle moves upward for clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle is restricted. 2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing position. 1/21/2014
  18. 18. SINKER 3. The sinker retracts (pull back) when the needle comes down after feeding. At this stage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movements along the needle is prevented. 4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position drawing the new loop through the old one. 5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a little and to hold the old loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position to control the fabric.
  19. 19. DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly flexible used for under garments. Front and back wales are exactly at same point Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible but have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and waist band. Front and back wales are not at same point Double Jersey Double side knitted, can have different designs on both sides 1/21/2014
  20. 20. INTERLOCK MACHINE 1/21/2014
  21. 21. DOUBLE KNIT JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINE 1/21/2014
  22. 22. Double Knit Jacquard Knitting Machine 1/21/2014
  23. 23. TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES Plain knitting Loop knitting 1/21/2014
  24. 24. SINGLE KNIT PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES Mostly called jersey machines. On this machines, there is a set of needles and sinkers. These machines may be single track of multi track. From one track to six track machines are available. These machine can knit jersey, pique, honey comb, mini jacquard 1/21/2014
  25. 25. SINGLE PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES Single Track Multi Track 1/21/2014
  26. 26. SINGLE TRACK SINGLE KNIT Track means number of cams vertically fitted In single track machine there is only one track This machine can knit only full knit fabric (single jersey) 1/21/2014
  27. 27. Multi Track Knitting Machine In this machine there are 2-6 tracks More number of tracks means that variety of designs can be produced On these machine many types of fabric can be produced, like, pique, pique fleece, two thread fleece and mini jacquard 1/21/2014
  28. 28. Multi Track Knitting Machine 1/21/2014
  29. 29. LOOP KNITTING MACHINES In these machines we can make loop on one or on both sides of fabric. By introducing loops we can increase the weight and bulkiness of fabric 1/21/2014
  30. 30. Types of Loop Knitting Machines Terry Fleece 1/21/2014
  31. 31. TERRY FABRIC This fabric has loops on the surface, like towel but the length of loops is smaller than towels. Normally used to make shirts of kids or for people working under high temperature to absorb the moisture 1/21/2014
  32. 32. TERRY KNITTING MACHINE 1/21/2014
  33. 33. TERRY KNITTING MACHINE 1/21/2014
  34. 34. TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES 1/21/2014
  35. 35. SINGLE JERSEY DOUBLE FACE FABRIC 1/21/2014
  36. 36. THREE THREAD KNITTING MACHINE This machine is used to produce fleece fabric. This fabric is plain from one side. Mostly front side is of single jersey and on back loop is inserted across various number of wales (normally two to three wales are covered). Back side is brushed with the help of raising machine to make it more comfortable and bulky as well as warm Two types of threads are used; fine for the top and course for back ( 30/16, 28/12 etc)
  37. 37. THREE THREAD FLEECE MACHINE 1/21/2014
  38. 38. FLEECE FABRIC 1/21/2014
  39. 39. STRIPER In stripe knitting machines we can produce horizontal stripes with the help of scissors which cuts the yarn and a new yarn is fed There are two types of: • Mechanical • Electronic Note: in current era there is no fresh production of mechanical strip machines 1/21/2014
  40. 40. STRIPE KNITTING MACHINE 1/21/2014
  41. 41. JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES These machine are available in, • Single bed • Double knit technology • Normally more than one colored yarns are used. • Different patterns are made • Normally 4-6 color machines are available 1/21/2014
  42. 42. 1/21/2014 JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES
  43. 43. JACQUARD MACHINES Mechanical Jacquard Electronic Jacquard 1/21/2014
  44. 44. JACQUARD FABRIC 1/21/2014
  45. 45. FLAT KNITTING Single bed Double bed 1/21/2014
  46. 46. FULL GARMENT FLAT KNITTING MACHINES • These are latest machines and • are used to make full length of garment • Quite expensive 1/21/2014
  47. 47. GLOVES KNITTING MACHINE In this machine bed rotates and carriage moves from one side to other 1/21/2014
  48. 48. WARP KNITTING Raschel, made with latch needles, Tricot, using bearded needles. 1/21/2014
  49. 49. WARP KNITTING MACHINE 1/21/2014
  50. 50. WARP KNITTED FABRIC 1/21/2014
  51. 51. THE PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES Warp knitting offers: • • • • Higher production rates than for weaving. A wide variety of fabric constructions. Large working widths. A low stress rate on the yarn that facilitates careful handling of fibres such as glass, aramide and carbon (particularly when using weft-insertion techniques). • Conventional warp knitted structures that can be directionally structured. • Three-dimensional structures that can be knitted on double needle bar raschels. 1/21/2014
  52. 52. WARP KNITTING Main products • Nets • Curtains • Technical fabrics • Covers • Covering sheets 1/21/2014
  53. 53. WORKING PRINCIPLE • Warp sheet • Loops development with the help of needles • Loops insertion with the help of needles • Needle movement controls mechanically and electronically 1/21/2014
  54. 54. PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC • • • • • More stable than knitted Big and small holes are possible Many designs are possible Highly course yarn can be used Technical fabric can be produced 1/21/2014
  55. 55. USE OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC • use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters, seat covers etc • used as curtains, table covers • used as chadar in some countries • not used for clothing 1/21/2014
  56. 56. WARP KNITTING In this process; • yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet) • and then with the help of needles stitches are formed by, • insertion new loop into old loop
  57. 57. WARP KNITTING TECHNOLOGY • Warp knitting machines--needles are mounted collectively and rigidly in a horizontal metal bar (the needle bar that runs the full knitting width of the machine). • Equally the yarn guides are also set rigidly into a horizontal metal bar (the guide bar that runs the full width of the machine). 1/21/2014 57

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