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  1. 1. Food and people
  2. 2. THE NEW REVIEW Food Special SUPER NATURAL A reverence for raw produce and simple cooking techniques heralds a new back-to-basics culinary movement 7 JUNE 2009 THE INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY Plus The ultimate Japanese restaurant, summer cocktails and Skye Gyngell’s gorgeous greenery IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW
  3. 3. Food Special BACK TO NATURE What happens when you get eleven of the world’s best chefs, take them to a forest and make them forage for their ingredients? Terry Durack reports on the raw food, raw energy and raw passion of ‘SuperNatural’ eating PHOTOGRAPHS BY PER -ANDERS JORGENSEN A t the World Business Summit in Copenhagen foraged samphire, and topped with a “toxic scum” of lemony two weeks ago today, the UN Secretary-General foam;achilling, and chilled, indictment of how we are despoil- Ban Ki-Moon urged the business leaders of ingourenvironment. I tasted it gingerly, thinking that I might the world to do what they could to reduce green- die; but it was as fresh and exhilarating as a sea-salty breeze. house gases. At the same time, just across town, Bottura was one of 11 celebrated chefs drawn from the US, in a converted whale-blubber warehouse in Christianshavn, Italy, the UK, Spain, Germany, France and Japan to Rene some of the greatest chefs in the world were coming up with Redzepi’s ground-breaking Noma restaurant in the Danish their own, edible responses to climate change. capital for Cook it Raw!, a culinary think-tank culminating Massimo Bottura, the two-Michelin-starred chef of Italy’s in a banquet created from raw food, native Danish ingredi- Raw of approval: Osteria Francescana, created a dish for the occasion entitled ents, minimum heat and low-energy cooking. The chefs, Tartare BC (beef served “Pollution”. “I read a report describing how our oceans will who have notched up 20 Michelin stars between them, rep- in bark) by Davide look in 2050,” he said. “There will be no sea bass, no life on the resented numbers one, three, 11, 13, 31 and 40 in the 2009 Scabin; left, Claude sea bed, just giant squid and seaweed.” Moved by this bleak World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Bosi’s spider-crab dish picture, he created a cold, primeval pool of swampy green Most of the dishes were produced using little or no and grey juices – made from oyster, squid, monkfish liver and conventional energy. That meant no food processors, ‘ 8 7 JUNE 2009 I THE INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW
  4. 4. Jorgensen Photography Per-Anders Jörgensen +44 20 8816 8716 +46 705 231494