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Sustainability within the Fashion Industry
BEHIND THE LABELS
Mirela Orlovic @ Net Impact AUP, 28 April 2016
The Name
URBAN + MEISTER + SUrban German for master Community
Our Mission
Our mission is to empower
men and women
to master their urban life,
stay healthy & happy.
We make green living easy
& help you choose
the best set of solutions
to combat & prevent pollution.
Our Mascot
Bees certainly have mastered the art of green urban living
and hence are the ideal UrbanMeisters to learn from!
UrbanMeisters- Behind the Labels, Sustainability within the Fashion industry
How green is the Industry?
WHAT S WRONG WITH FASHION?
http://apps.npr.org/tshirt/#/title
3rd largest Industry, worth 1.5 trillion $
80 billions garments per year
2nd most polluting Industry after Oil
2nd largest polluter of clean water after Food
2nd biggest economic activity for Intensity of Trade
Large & dirty & complex
"Just imagine the resources this requires … and underneath it all we have
an army of millions of humans, tilling the soil and picking the cotton;
ginning, weaving, dyeing; working looms, sewing embellishments and
sequins and buttons in huge factories. (Livia Firth,Eco-fashion activist)
Black, K. (2015): Magnifeco. New Society Publishers, p. 53
http://www.alternet.org/environment/its-second-dirtiest-
thing-world-and-youre-wearing-it
http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-
industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic
Coloration Finishing
Garment
manufacture
Retail Consumer End of Life
Raw materials
& Textiles
Transport & Logistics
Oldfashioned Supply chain
Lacking Transparency and Control
Importance of Life-cycle
Coloration Finishing
Garment
manufacture
Retail
Consumer
2.
End of Life
Raw materials
& Textiles
1.
Transport & Logistics
Importance of Life-cycle
Important parts are not in its direct control
1. Impact of the raw materials stage is the most significant
(Elisa Niemtzow, consultancy Business for Social Responsibility)
2. About 25% of CO2 Footprint is coming from the
customer, after we ve sold them the product
because of tumble dryers and dry cleaning
(Pierre Börjesson of H&M)
E.g. if a company wants to reduce Fashion’s CO2 Footprint
http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/
what-the-cop21-climate-agreement-means-for-fashion
The new Closed loop
http://ckh.wrap.org.uk/clothingKnowledgeHub/processStep
What s wrong?
1
Manufacturing countries
• Lacking sustainable methods and ethical use of ressources,
both natural and human
• Chinese textile industry accounts for over 50% of world
production
• Sweat shops, cheap labor in Asia and Africa
http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/25-shocking-fashion-industry-statistics.html
https://www.cleanclothes.org/livingwage/tailoredwages/tailored-wage-report-pdf
Manufacturing countries
• Lacking sustainable methods and ethical use of ressources,
both natural and human
• Chinese textile industry accounts for over 50% of world
production
• Sweat shops, cheap labor in Asia and Africa
• On 24 April 2013, over 3.000
people killed or injured when
the Rana Plaza complex
collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh
What s wrong?
2
2. Raw materials
• Cotton, the fabric of our lives
The dirtiest crop on the planet using more
chemical pesticides than any other,
e.g. 25% of all insecticides. Not only air,
water and soil gets intoxicated, but also
thousands of farmers die
Particularly thirsty crop: roughly 2.700 liters / 720 gallons to produce the
cotton needed to make a single t-shirt, this is equal to what a person
drinks in 3 years…
Use of artificial growth boosters to meet demand of Fast fashion
• Synthetic fibres like Nylon % Polyester both from petro-chemicals,
are not bio-diodegradable, while Polyester can be recycled, Nylon takes
30-40 years to decompose
http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-
dirtiest-industry/
Black, K. (2015): Magnifeco. New Society Publishers, p. 53
What s wrong?
3
3. Processing
• About 8.000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles
• Many of them are released into lakes and rivers in the country of
production, affecting their safe drinking water drawing capacities.
…and the effects of this industrial waste travel from one water body to another.
According to Greenpeace traces of pollutants used in textile producing countries
like India were found in the liver of polar bears…
• Some of them stay in the textile. In 2012, Greenpeace had found
potentially hazadrous industrial chemicals across a significant number
of samples tested
• One of them was NPEs (Nonylphenol Ethoxylate) that showed up in
over 60% of the garments. This chemical can get absorbed in body and is
able to cause hormonal imbalance in the host body
http://www.environmentalleader.com/2014/10/06/assessing-
the-environmental-impact-of-the-fashion-world
http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/Camp
aign-reports/Toxics-reports/Big-Fashion-Stitch-Up/
http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/Campaign-reports/Toxics-reports/Dirty-Laundry-Reloaded
What s wrong?
4
4. Consumption & Waste
40% of instore purchase
are unplanned
http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/
what-the-cop21-climate-agreement-means-for-fashion
http://www.care2.com/causes/how-many-clothes-do-
you-throw-away-every-year.html
A lot is wrong
Retail
Landmill
intoxication
Transport
It is in our hands how green it will get
THE INDUSTRY IS DETOXING
According to The Luxury Society, in 2016 we will see more of a new
type of luxury consumer, less interested in attaining status from labels
or from a price tag
 Luxury brands need to find worth and substance elsewhere
 This will hit Mainstream
New thoughful Luxurians
http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2016/01/6-key-luxury-
trends-that-will-make-or-break-brands-in-2016
Greenpeace Detox Fashion
Experts have outlined 4 major ways of detoxing fashion:
• Choice of material- renewable and sustainable as far as possible
• Eye on factories that dye and finish these fabrics- minimise use of
harmful chemicals and untreated spillage into water bodies
• Transportation of goods- airways is a big no no
• Consumer care directions on garments- promote hand washing
and shun dry cleaning as it again uses toxic solvents
 Greenpeace’s Detox My Fashion campaign
Though it s a small number, 18 companies (10% of global retail)
including Valentino, Burberry, Marks & Spencer and H&M, have
begun to eliminate toxic chemicals
http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/
discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-
sustainable/remove-toxic-chemicals-fabrics-fashions-
supply-chain
Changing the Fashion rules
I’m not really sure if the market actually demands all those clothes…
You know we deliver winter in July; it doesn’t make any sense… . I feel
something needs to happen to find a new mechanism or system to
work because it is a lot of money wasted as well, on development, on
selling things we don’t really need. (Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga)
 Brands like Burberry, Tom Ford, Balenciaga announced their
break from the traditional fashion week calendars reducing
their seasons.
(ok, even if it is also / in priority an attempt to bridge the huge gap between when the
collection is viewed on ramp and when it’s actually available in stores…)
World Economic Forum 16
Big players
2016 Corporate Knights Global 100 index recognised Kering, H&M,
Marks & Spencer and Adidas for their sustainability performance
Joined green Startups
« Were here in Davos to [find] individuals
who can … capitalise on technologies making
use of garbage… Who knows, maybe
trashion is the future. Ten years from now,
the direction is for fashion labels to really get
the idea of sustainable fashion and of slow
fashion. Whatever their non-toxic,
non-organic garbage is they should be able to make use of that, he
added. (Francis Sollano, social entrepreneur)
http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-
currents/what-davos-world-economic-forum-means-for-
fashion
Sustainable materials
Sustainable materials
• Bionic Yarn The company that makes yarn out of ocean trash
Sustainable materials
• Lyocell: is a fabric that s made from the fibre
of trees that grow quickly and require little
water and few pesticides
 TENCEL® (eucylyptus), MONOCEL®
(bamboo) are a soft, lightweight version great
for jersey, knits and woven garments.
• Denimite: New startup, material made of
recycled denim scraps resembles a sodalite
gemstone
http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/hot-
topics/more-sustainable-materials/lyocell.html
Sustainable materials
http://www.arte.tv/magazine/futuremag/fr/emission-du-23-avril-2016-futuremag
Eco goes fashionable
V.A.L.U.E.
Vintage
Artisan
Local
Upcycled
Ethical
Kate Black (Founder & Editor-in-Chief of Magnifeco.com) recommends:
Upcycling is cool
• M-24 Bags Salvage old lorry tarpaulins and turn them into
durable and unique bags
http://www.m-24.co.uk/
Reformation- Ethical is sexy
• Honesty & Visibility: total transparency on the
whole value chain, they showcase for each product
the amount of carbon dioxide emitted and water
used and compare it to the US industry standard.
On top they offset the emissions and water used
during production, with planting forests to
naturally capture CO2 from the air. They control
their waste, toxicity and fair labour and also invest
in clean water solutions.
• Amazing green quality: Rescued deadstock
fabrics, repurposed vintage clothing, sustainable
materials like TENCEL, R&D to search for innovative
sustainable materials
• Recycling
• Urban, edgy, sexy design
https://www.thereformation.com/
THANK YOU!

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UrbanMeisters- Behind the Labels, Sustainability within the Fashion industry

  • 1. Sustainability within the Fashion Industry BEHIND THE LABELS Mirela Orlovic @ Net Impact AUP, 28 April 2016
  • 2. The Name URBAN + MEISTER + SUrban German for master Community
  • 3. Our Mission Our mission is to empower men and women to master their urban life, stay healthy & happy. We make green living easy & help you choose the best set of solutions to combat & prevent pollution.
  • 4. Our Mascot Bees certainly have mastered the art of green urban living and hence are the ideal UrbanMeisters to learn from!
  • 6. How green is the Industry? WHAT S WRONG WITH FASHION?
  • 8. 3rd largest Industry, worth 1.5 trillion $ 80 billions garments per year 2nd most polluting Industry after Oil 2nd largest polluter of clean water after Food 2nd biggest economic activity for Intensity of Trade Large & dirty & complex "Just imagine the resources this requires … and underneath it all we have an army of millions of humans, tilling the soil and picking the cotton; ginning, weaving, dyeing; working looms, sewing embellishments and sequins and buttons in huge factories. (Livia Firth,Eco-fashion activist) Black, K. (2015): Magnifeco. New Society Publishers, p. 53 http://www.alternet.org/environment/its-second-dirtiest- thing-world-and-youre-wearing-it http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion- industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic
  • 9. Coloration Finishing Garment manufacture Retail Consumer End of Life Raw materials & Textiles Transport & Logistics Oldfashioned Supply chain Lacking Transparency and Control
  • 11. Coloration Finishing Garment manufacture Retail Consumer 2. End of Life Raw materials & Textiles 1. Transport & Logistics Importance of Life-cycle Important parts are not in its direct control 1. Impact of the raw materials stage is the most significant (Elisa Niemtzow, consultancy Business for Social Responsibility) 2. About 25% of CO2 Footprint is coming from the customer, after we ve sold them the product because of tumble dryers and dry cleaning (Pierre Börjesson of H&M) E.g. if a company wants to reduce Fashion’s CO2 Footprint http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/ what-the-cop21-climate-agreement-means-for-fashion
  • 12. The new Closed loop http://ckh.wrap.org.uk/clothingKnowledgeHub/processStep
  • 14. Manufacturing countries • Lacking sustainable methods and ethical use of ressources, both natural and human • Chinese textile industry accounts for over 50% of world production • Sweat shops, cheap labor in Asia and Africa http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/25-shocking-fashion-industry-statistics.html https://www.cleanclothes.org/livingwage/tailoredwages/tailored-wage-report-pdf
  • 15. Manufacturing countries • Lacking sustainable methods and ethical use of ressources, both natural and human • Chinese textile industry accounts for over 50% of world production • Sweat shops, cheap labor in Asia and Africa • On 24 April 2013, over 3.000 people killed or injured when the Rana Plaza complex collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh
  • 17. 2. Raw materials • Cotton, the fabric of our lives The dirtiest crop on the planet using more chemical pesticides than any other, e.g. 25% of all insecticides. Not only air, water and soil gets intoxicated, but also thousands of farmers die Particularly thirsty crop: roughly 2.700 liters / 720 gallons to produce the cotton needed to make a single t-shirt, this is equal to what a person drinks in 3 years… Use of artificial growth boosters to meet demand of Fast fashion • Synthetic fibres like Nylon % Polyester both from petro-chemicals, are not bio-diodegradable, while Polyester can be recycled, Nylon takes 30-40 years to decompose http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second- dirtiest-industry/ Black, K. (2015): Magnifeco. New Society Publishers, p. 53
  • 19. 3. Processing • About 8.000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles • Many of them are released into lakes and rivers in the country of production, affecting their safe drinking water drawing capacities. …and the effects of this industrial waste travel from one water body to another. According to Greenpeace traces of pollutants used in textile producing countries like India were found in the liver of polar bears… • Some of them stay in the textile. In 2012, Greenpeace had found potentially hazadrous industrial chemicals across a significant number of samples tested • One of them was NPEs (Nonylphenol Ethoxylate) that showed up in over 60% of the garments. This chemical can get absorbed in body and is able to cause hormonal imbalance in the host body http://www.environmentalleader.com/2014/10/06/assessing- the-environmental-impact-of-the-fashion-world http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/Camp aign-reports/Toxics-reports/Big-Fashion-Stitch-Up/
  • 22. 4. Consumption & Waste 40% of instore purchase are unplanned http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/ what-the-cop21-climate-agreement-means-for-fashion http://www.care2.com/causes/how-many-clothes-do- you-throw-away-every-year.html
  • 23. A lot is wrong Retail Landmill intoxication Transport
  • 24. It is in our hands how green it will get THE INDUSTRY IS DETOXING
  • 25. According to The Luxury Society, in 2016 we will see more of a new type of luxury consumer, less interested in attaining status from labels or from a price tag  Luxury brands need to find worth and substance elsewhere  This will hit Mainstream New thoughful Luxurians http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2016/01/6-key-luxury- trends-that-will-make-or-break-brands-in-2016
  • 26. Greenpeace Detox Fashion Experts have outlined 4 major ways of detoxing fashion: • Choice of material- renewable and sustainable as far as possible • Eye on factories that dye and finish these fabrics- minimise use of harmful chemicals and untreated spillage into water bodies • Transportation of goods- airways is a big no no • Consumer care directions on garments- promote hand washing and shun dry cleaning as it again uses toxic solvents  Greenpeace’s Detox My Fashion campaign Though it s a small number, 18 companies (10% of global retail) including Valentino, Burberry, Marks & Spencer and H&M, have begun to eliminate toxic chemicals http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/ discussions/can-fashion-industry-become- sustainable/remove-toxic-chemicals-fabrics-fashions- supply-chain
  • 27. Changing the Fashion rules I’m not really sure if the market actually demands all those clothes… You know we deliver winter in July; it doesn’t make any sense… . I feel something needs to happen to find a new mechanism or system to work because it is a lot of money wasted as well, on development, on selling things we don’t really need. (Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga)  Brands like Burberry, Tom Ford, Balenciaga announced their break from the traditional fashion week calendars reducing their seasons. (ok, even if it is also / in priority an attempt to bridge the huge gap between when the collection is viewed on ramp and when it’s actually available in stores…)
  • 28. World Economic Forum 16 Big players 2016 Corporate Knights Global 100 index recognised Kering, H&M, Marks & Spencer and Adidas for their sustainability performance Joined green Startups « Were here in Davos to [find] individuals who can … capitalise on technologies making use of garbage… Who knows, maybe trashion is the future. Ten years from now, the direction is for fashion labels to really get the idea of sustainable fashion and of slow fashion. Whatever their non-toxic, non-organic garbage is they should be able to make use of that, he added. (Francis Sollano, social entrepreneur) http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global- currents/what-davos-world-economic-forum-means-for- fashion
  • 30. Sustainable materials • Bionic Yarn The company that makes yarn out of ocean trash
  • 31. Sustainable materials • Lyocell: is a fabric that s made from the fibre of trees that grow quickly and require little water and few pesticides  TENCEL® (eucylyptus), MONOCEL® (bamboo) are a soft, lightweight version great for jersey, knits and woven garments. • Denimite: New startup, material made of recycled denim scraps resembles a sodalite gemstone http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/hot- topics/more-sustainable-materials/lyocell.html
  • 34. V.A.L.U.E. Vintage Artisan Local Upcycled Ethical Kate Black (Founder & Editor-in-Chief of Magnifeco.com) recommends:
  • 35. Upcycling is cool • M-24 Bags Salvage old lorry tarpaulins and turn them into durable and unique bags http://www.m-24.co.uk/
  • 36. Reformation- Ethical is sexy • Honesty & Visibility: total transparency on the whole value chain, they showcase for each product the amount of carbon dioxide emitted and water used and compare it to the US industry standard. On top they offset the emissions and water used during production, with planting forests to naturally capture CO2 from the air. They control their waste, toxicity and fair labour and also invest in clean water solutions. • Amazing green quality: Rescued deadstock fabrics, repurposed vintage clothing, sustainable materials like TENCEL, R&D to search for innovative sustainable materials • Recycling • Urban, edgy, sexy design https://www.thereformation.com/