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Biological Tailor-Made: 2.5 Dimensional Fashion Pattern Cutting

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The Biological Tailor-Made aims to speculate on an alternative role of fashion designer in the age of biotechnology and invert the system of the current fashion industry by the power of Bio-hacking through improving the conventional pattern cutting techniques for emerging bio-material in particular.

In order to tackle the complex task of developing a bio-fashion prototype, I worked in parallel running modules according to discipline –Fashion, Digital Fabrication and Bio-hacking.

ⅰ Fashion: I made a tailored suit by custom made process. Traditional Tailor-Made is the analogy of this work.

ⅱ Digital Fabrication: Scanned, digitized the fashion pattern, and edited the data for 3D design process, and milling it with a large scale CNC machine. CNC processing the tailored-suit data with the Shopbot, which is specialized for large scaled data, especially for architects.

ⅲ Bio-Hacking: SCOBY produces celluloses by the principles of fermentation and a sheet of cellulose is layered to expand its volume and capacity. A metabolic system of new bio-materials enables us to control its shape according to the mold. if one incubates SCOBY on a curved surface, SCOBY will follow that curve when it dries.

The 2.5 dimensional pattern can express the curved surface shape to fit a woman’s body: It also creates the possibility of introducing Bio-hacking and Digital Fabrication into Fashion Design.

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Design and Research: Kazuya Kawasaki

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Supervisor: Dr. Daijiro Mizuno PhD (RCA)

Film: Hayate Kobayashi
Music: Kenta Tanaka

Project Assistant: Kotaro Sano

Model: Tamami Ohbuchi

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© Kazuya Kawasaki. All Rights Reserved.

Published in: Art & Photos
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Biological Tailor-Made: 2.5 Dimensional Fashion Pattern Cutting

  1. 1. Biological Tailor-Made: 2.5 Dimensional Fashion Pattern Cutting Kazuya Kawasaki
  2. 2. Concept The Biological Tailor-Made aims to speculate on an alternative form of fashion and invert the system of the current fashion industry by the power of Bio-hacking through improving the conventional pattern cutting techniques for emerging bio-material in particular. In order to tackle the complex task of developing a bio-fashion prototype, I worked in parallel running modules according to discipline –Fashion, Digital Fabrication and Bio-hacking. ⅰ Fashion: I made a tailored suit by custom made process. Traditional Taylor-Maid is the analogy of this work. ⅱ Digital Fabrication: Scanned, digitized the fashion pattern, and edited the data for 3D design process, and milling it with a large scale CNC machine. CNC processing the tailored-suit data with the 3D printer, which is specialized for large scaled data, especially for architects. ⅲ Bio-Hacking: SCOBY produces celluloses by the principles of fermentation and a sheet of cellulose is layered to expand its volume and capacity. A metabolic system of new bio-materials enables us to control its shape according to the mold. if one incubates SCOBY on a curved surface, SCOBY will follow that curve when it dries. The 2.5 dimensional pattern can express the curved surface shape to fit a woman’s body: It also creates the possibility of introducing Bio-hacking and digital fabrication into Fashion Design. —WhyHacking? Bio-HackingFashon bythepowerofBioandFab toinvertthesystem ofthecurrentfashionindustry: From Analog,Closed andRetrospective to Digital,OpenandSpeculative
  3. 3. —WhatandHowHacking? There is a growing need for sustainable fashion since the 2010s. Asartists and designers explore the potential use of innovative materialsdeveloped by synthetic biology and DIY bio-hacking. × × I used a large-scale tecnic 3D-printer that can generate human-scale objects, and created a mold in order to model bio-materials. On the mold, I incubated the material. A metabolic system of bio-materials enables us to control its shape according to the mold. If one incubates SCOBY on a curved surface, SCOBY will follow that curve. iii Bio-Hacking Three Weeks i Fashion One Week ii Digital Fabrication Two Weeks
  4. 4. i Fashion One Week ii Digital Fabrication Two Weeks iii Bio-Hacking Three Weeks —Parallel DesignProcessforBiologicalTailor-Made ConceptMaking PatternMaking CutandSewn 3DScanning EdittheData CNCProcess MakeaMold MoldingProcess StartIncuvation SCOBY ConstructIncubation Environm ent W ashingandDrying CutandSewn Com plete
  5. 5. i Fashion One Week 1. Production of the fashion pattern: I made a tailored suit pattern that were soaked with calcined plaster. 2. Incremental Prototype: and Sustom Made: Designing a suit to work with a model of a woman to fit the dimensions and decided the shape while gradually improving. 3. Measuring, Cut and Sawn: Tailored suit by custom made process. Traditional Taylor-Maid is the analogy of this work.
  6. 6. invert the system of the current fashion industry
  7. 7. ii Digital Fabrication Two Weeks 1. Scanning of the pattern with a 3D scanner: I scanned and digitized the pattern, and edited the data for milling with a Shopbot. 2. Milling the edited data: I processed the pattern data on a specialized large scale CNC machine, most oft en used by architects. 3. Modeling and Fabrication: In order to create curved shapes in the design phase, the conventional 2D pattern cutting is based on darts which creates a lot of textile waste. On the other hand, the 2.5D method enables us to change darts into molds to omit textile emissions. 4. Molding : The 2.5D method enables us to mold joints such as the underarm compared to 3D forming.
  8. 8. ii Bio-Hacking Three Weeks 1. SCOBY : the material is a colony of bacteria that consists of Zygosaccharomycessp, a yeast, and Acetobacter xylinum, an acetic acid bacteria. SCOBY produces celluloses by the principles of fermentation and a sheet of cellulose is layered to expand its volume and capacity. 2. Construction of Incubation Environment : I personally created the incubation environment including the incubator and a medium. A glass box was used as the incubator and its size was 1800 *900 *400mm. Medium was made from organic vinegar water, sugar, and green tea. 3. Washing and Drying Materials : 18 days after the experiment started, the thickness of the material reached 25mm. After that, the material was taken off of the tank and washed and dried. After washing, the material was dried for 2 days 4. Molding the biomaterials : I dried the biomaterials out on the pattern, and molded the curved surface without straightening materials. 5. Sewing: After drying, I sewed the material.
  9. 9. Kazuya Kawasaki Speculative Fashion Designer // Design Researcher Kazuya is a designer to construct a bridge between fashion design and wearable technology in giving focal points to historical, existing and speculative fashion issues with science, technology and communication through design research and critique. He is researching in fashion design, wearable technology and bio design. And proven ability to drive cross-disciplinary fashion project. His projects look at fashion design in the broad spectrum, from material development to the process of design in order to create fashion works to speculate on an alternative fashion industry and explore how fashion design can make positive impacts on society. His works have been presented at Dutch Design Week 2017 (Eindhoven, 2017), Ars Electronica (Austria, 2017), National Museum of Scotland (UK, 2017), Design Indaba (2016, Capetown), and AXIS gallery (Tokyo, 2015). His work was nominated for STARTS PRIZE 2017, and he was selected one of the Top 20 Global Design Graduate by Dutch Design Week 2017.
  10. 10. Education KEIO UNIVERSITY, TOKYO BA in X Design Program, 2015 Major: Fashion Design, Design Reserach and Speculative Design Reserach Subject: Bio-Fashion design and Speculative Design GRADUATE SCHOOL OF MEDIA AND GOVERNANCE, KEIO UNIVERSITY, TOKYO MA in X Design Program, 2016-PRESENT Major: Fashion Design, Wearable Technology and Design Reserach Reserach Subject: Bio-Fashion design and Wearable Technology Professional Experience Textile Researcher for Poiesis Labs, 2016-PRESENT a cross disciplinary company that aims to explore the development of textile as interactive surface in wearable technology and bio design founded by Shiho Fukuhara, Textile & Creative Innovation Lead for Google ATAP Project Jacquard. Selected Awards Selected “Top 20 Global Design Graduate” by Dutch Design Week2017, Design Indaba and World Design Event. Selected “Speculative, Fashionable, Wearable” for the STARTS Prize 2017 –Nomination, 2017 Nominated for WTA -WORLD TECHNOLOGY AWARD 2016: Design, 2016 Selected my biofashion work for The Topic Award by AXIS Gallery The Golden Eggs exhibition, Tokyo, 2015 Selected Exhibitions Antenna: Dutch Design Week 2017. 2017. 10.19-10.24. Eindhoven. Netherlands. The STARTS Prize exhibition: the Ars Electronica Festival 2017. 2017.09.7-09.11. Linz. Austria. Design Indaba, Artscape Opera House, Cape Town, 2016.02.17-02.19 The Golden Eggs exhibition, The Topic Award given to my work AXIS Gallery, Tokyo, 2015.08.27-09.06 Selected AwardsAcademic Conferences / Papers IASDR 2017 - Re: Research. US. Cincinnati University, Cincinnati. 2017.10.31-11.3 EKSIG 2017 [International Conference on Experiential Knowledge and Emerging Materials]: Alive. Active. Adaptive. Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam, The Netherlands, 2017.06.19-21 RTD 2017: Research Through Design, National Museum of Scotland. UK. 2017.03.21-03.24 Open Design for E-very-thing: Cumulus 2016, Open Design Exhibition, Hong Kong Design Institute, Hong Kong, 2016.10.21-10.24 INCLUDE 2015, Poster Presentation, Dr. Daijiro Mizuno, Kazuya Kawasaki, Aiko Monoi et al., Design by People, Royal College of Art, London, 2015.09.17-18
  11. 11. Design and Research: Kazuya Kawasaki Supervisor: Dr. Daijiro Mizuno PhD (RCA) Film: Hayate Kobayashi Music: Kenta Tanaka Project Assistant: Kotaro Sano Model: Tamami Ohbuchi © Kazuya Kawasaki. All Rights Reserved.

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