1.
Biological Tailor-Made:
2.5 Dimensional Fashion Pattern Cutting
Kazuya Kawasaki

2.
Concept
The Biological Tailor-Made aims to speculate on an alternative form of
fashion and invert the system of the current fashion industry by the
power of Bio-hacking through improving the conventional pattern
cutting techniques for emerging bio-material in particular.
In order to tackle the complex task of developing a bio-fashion
prototype, I worked in parallel running modules according to discipline
–Fashion, Digital Fabrication and Bio-hacking.
ⅰ Fashion: I made a tailored suit by custom made process. Traditional
Taylor-Maid is the analogy of this work.
ⅱ Digital Fabrication: Scanned, digitized the fashion pattern, and
edited the data for 3D design process, and milling it with a large scale
CNC machine. CNC processing the tailored-suit data with the 3D
printer, which is specialized for large scaled data, especially for
architects.
ⅲ Bio-Hacking: SCOBY produces celluloses by the principles of
fermentation and a sheet of cellulose is layered to expand its volume
and capacity. A metabolic system of new bio-materials enables us to
control its shape according to the mold. if one incubates SCOBY on a
curved surface, SCOBY will follow that curve when it dries.
The 2.5 dimensional pattern can express the curved surface shape to fit
a woman’s body: It also creates the possibility of introducing
Bio-hacking and digital fabrication into Fashion Design.
—WhyHacking?
Bio-HackingFashon
bythepowerofBioandFab
toinvertthesystem
ofthecurrentfashionindustry:
From Analog,Closed
andRetrospective
to Digital,OpenandSpeculative

3.
—WhatandHowHacking?
There is a growing need for sustainable fashion
since the 2010s. Asartists and designers explore
the potential use of innovative materialsdeveloped
by synthetic biology and DIY bio-hacking.
× ×
I used a large-scale tecnic 3D-printer that can
generate human-scale objects, and created a
mold in order to model bio-materials. On the
mold, I incubated the material.
A metabolic system of bio-materials enables us to
control its shape according to the mold. If one
incubates SCOBY on a curved surface, SCOBY will
follow that curve.
iii Bio-Hacking
Three Weeks
i Fashion
One Week
ii Digital Fabrication
Two Weeks

4.
i Fashion
One Week
ii Digital
Fabrication
Two Weeks
iii Bio-Hacking
Three Weeks
—Parallel DesignProcessforBiologicalTailor-Made
ConceptMaking
PatternMaking
CutandSewn
3DScanning
EdittheData
CNCProcess
MakeaMold
MoldingProcess
StartIncuvation
SCOBY
ConstructIncubation
Environm
ent
W
ashingandDrying
CutandSewn
Com
plete

5.
i Fashion
One Week
1. Production of the fashion pattern: I made a tailored suit pattern
that were soaked with calcined plaster.
2. Incremental Prototype: and Sustom Made: Designing a suit to
work with a model of a woman to fit the dimensions and decided
the shape while gradually improving.
3. Measuring, Cut and Sawn: Tailored suit by custom made
process. Traditional Taylor-Maid is the analogy of this work.

6.
invert the system of the current fashion industry

7.
ii Digital Fabrication
Two Weeks
1. Scanning of the pattern with a 3D scanner: I scanned and
digitized the pattern, and edited the data for milling with a
Shopbot.
2. Milling the edited data: I processed the pattern data on a
specialized large scale CNC machine, most oft en used by
architects.
3. Modeling and Fabrication: In order to create curved shapes in
the design phase, the conventional 2D pattern cutting is based on
darts which creates a lot of textile waste. On the other hand, the
2.5D method enables us to change darts into molds to omit textile
emissions.
4. Molding : The 2.5D method enables us to mold joints such as the
underarm compared to 3D forming.

8.
ii Bio-Hacking
Three Weeks
1. SCOBY : the material is a colony of bacteria that consists of
Zygosaccharomycessp, a yeast, and Acetobacter xylinum, an acetic
acid bacteria. SCOBY produces celluloses by the principles of
fermentation and a sheet of cellulose is layered to expand its volume
and capacity.
2. Construction of Incubation Environment : I personally created the
incubation environment including the incubator and a medium. A glass
box was used as the incubator and its size was 1800 *900 *400mm.
Medium was made from organic vinegar water, sugar, and green tea.
3. Washing and Drying Materials : 18 days after the experiment started,
the thickness of the material reached 25mm. After that, the material
was taken off of the tank and washed and dried. After washing, the
material was dried for 2 days
4. Molding the biomaterials : I dried the biomaterials out on the pattern,
and molded the curved surface without straightening materials.
5. Sewing: After drying, I sewed the material.

9.
Kazuya Kawasaki
Speculative Fashion Designer // Design Researcher
Kazuya is a designer to construct a bridge between fashion design
and wearable technology in giving focal points to historical, existing
and speculative fashion issues with science, technology and
communication through design research and critique. He is
researching in fashion design, wearable technology and bio design.
And proven ability to drive cross-disciplinary fashion project.
His projects look at fashion design in the broad spectrum, from
material development to the process of design in order to create
fashion works to speculate on an alternative fashion industry and
explore how fashion design can make positive impacts on society.
His works have been presented at Dutch Design Week 2017
(Eindhoven, 2017), Ars Electronica (Austria, 2017), National
Museum of Scotland (UK, 2017), Design Indaba (2016, Capetown),
and AXIS gallery (Tokyo, 2015).
His work was nominated for STARTS PRIZE 2017, and he was
selected one of the Top 20 Global Design Graduate by Dutch Design
Week 2017.

10.
Education
KEIO UNIVERSITY, TOKYO
BA in X Design Program, 2015
Major: Fashion Design, Design Reserach and Speculative Design
Reserach Subject: Bio-Fashion design and Speculative Design
GRADUATE SCHOOL OF MEDIA AND GOVERNANCE,
KEIO UNIVERSITY, TOKYO
MA in X Design Program, 2016-PRESENT
Major: Fashion Design, Wearable Technology and Design Reserach
Reserach Subject: Bio-Fashion design and Wearable Technology
Professional Experience
Textile Researcher for Poiesis Labs, 2016-PRESENT
a cross disciplinary company that aims to explore the development of textile as
interactive surface in wearable technology and bio design founded by Shiho
Fukuhara, Textile & Creative Innovation Lead for Google ATAP Project Jacquard.
Selected Awards
Selected “Top 20 Global Design Graduate” by Dutch Design Week2017, Design
Indaba and World Design Event.
Selected “Speculative, Fashionable, Wearable” for the STARTS Prize 2017
–Nomination, 2017
Nominated for WTA -WORLD TECHNOLOGY AWARD 2016: Design, 2016
Selected my biofashion work for The Topic Award by AXIS Gallery The Golden Eggs
exhibition, Tokyo, 2015
Selected Exhibitions
Antenna: Dutch Design Week 2017.
2017. 10.19-10.24. Eindhoven. Netherlands.
The STARTS Prize exhibition: the Ars Electronica Festival 2017.
2017.09.7-09.11. Linz. Austria.
Design Indaba, Artscape Opera House, Cape Town, 2016.02.17-02.19
The Golden Eggs exhibition, The Topic Award given to my work
AXIS Gallery, Tokyo, 2015.08.27-09.06
Selected AwardsAcademic Conferences / Papers
IASDR 2017 - Re: Research. US. Cincinnati University, Cincinnati.
2017.10.31-11.3
EKSIG 2017 [International Conference on Experiential Knowledge
and Emerging Materials]: Alive. Active. Adaptive. Het Nieuwe
Instituut, Rotterdam, The Netherlands, 2017.06.19-21
RTD 2017: Research Through Design, National Museum of Scotland.
UK. 2017.03.21-03.24
Open Design for E-very-thing: Cumulus 2016, Open Design Exhibition,
Hong Kong Design Institute, Hong Kong, 2016.10.21-10.24
INCLUDE 2015, Poster Presentation, Dr. Daijiro Mizuno, Kazuya
Kawasaki, Aiko Monoi et al., Design by People, Royal College of Art,
London, 2015.09.17-18

11.
Design and Research: Kazuya Kawasaki
Supervisor: Dr. Daijiro Mizuno PhD (RCA)
Film: Hayate Kobayashi
Music: Kenta Tanaka
Project Assistant: Kotaro Sano
Model: Tamami Ohbuchi © Kazuya Kawasaki. All Rights Reserved.