Hair After Cancer


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A comprehensive guide for salon professionals to understanding and providing hair care to cancer survivors. The presentation includes essential information about hair and scalp (including ethnic differences), the effects of cancer treatments on hair, hair analysis and correct treatment of post-cancer hair, as well as coloring, perming, texturizing, and straightening hair after cancer.

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Hair After Cancer

  1. 1. Hair After Cancer A comprehensive guide to treating and caring for the hair and scalps of cancer survivors 1      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  2. 2. Medical Disclaimer Nothing in this presentation should be considered or relied upon as medical advice. Medical patients should always seek the advice of their physicians before making any decisions regarding their health. Organic Salon Systems does not, and anything in this presentation should not be considered as, providing medical advice of any kind whatsoever. 2      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  3. 3. Outline of Presentation This aftercare presentation will cover the following points: Introduction: Introduction to Organic Salon Systems Section A: Review of essential information about hair and scalp, including ethnic differences Section B: Effect of cancer treatments on hair. Hair analysis and correct treatment of hair Section C: Coloring, perming and straightening hair after cancer Section D: FAQ’s 3      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  4. 4. Organic Salon Systems The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional- only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance Online: Facebook: YouTube: Twitter: Color Site: Phone: (888) 312-4744 Fax: (727) 585-2300 Email: 4      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  5. 5. Organic  Salon  Systems  Products   •  Free  from  ammonia,  parabens,  formaldehyde,   resorcinol,  and  thioglycolates.   •  Contain  CerFfied  Organic  Ingredients  (cerFfied   by  the  United  Kingdom  Soil  AssociaFon)   •  Exceeding  all  European  Union  standards   regulaFng  cosmeFcs  and  beauty  products   •  PETA  cerFfied  as  being  100%  cruelty-­‐free  and   vegan   •  Fair-­‐Trade  accredited  and  cerFfied  
  6. 6. Organic  Color  Systems  (Color)   •  65  intermixable  colors   •  Superior  grey  coverage,  cleaner  blondes,  &   beauFful  reds  that  fade  on  tone   •  No  damage  to  the  hair  cuFcle  allowing  for  a  far   healthier  and  lavish  result   •  Up  to  3  levels  of  liV  with  color  &  7  levels  of  liV   with  lightener   •  True  to  color  chart  results   •  Semi,  demi  or  permanent  results   •  Longer  lasFng  tonal  values  
  7. 7. Organic  Curl  Systems   Organic  Curl  Systems  is  an   innovaFve  perm,  straightener,   and  relaxer  that  is  both   ammonia  and  thioglycolate   free,  while  containing  cerFfied   organic  extracts.    It  produces  a   bounce  and  curl  formaFon  that   is  healthy  and  looks  natural.  
  8. 8. Organic  Care  Systems   Organic  Care  Systems  not  only  is  the  perfect  back  bar  for  the  color  line  but,   your  clients  will  also  love  to  take  them  home  to  maintain  their  hair  between   visits.    These  products  contain  no  animal  products,  parabens  or  SLS.    They  are   never  tested  on  animals  and  are  made  with  cerFfied  organic  ingredients.   The  Organic  Control  and  Connect  lines  give  all  the  styling  hold  and   manipulaFon  you  have  come  to  expect  without  the  use  of  heavy  chemicals  or   plasFcs.  They  give  great  shine  and  a  natural  feel,  never  drying  briYle  or  hard.  
  9. 9. KeraGreen   KeraGreen  is  a  revoluFonary  new  formaldehyde-­‐free  organic   keraFn  system.    It  includes  a  full  line  of  treatments,  shampoos,   condiFoners,  and  serums  providing  a  more  natural,  organic,   healthier  and  beYer-­‐performing  alternaFve  to  formaldehyde-­‐ based  Brazilian  KeraFn  Treatments.  
  10. 10. Malibu  Wellness   Malibu  Wellness  products  use  a  patented,  fresh  dried  vitamin   complex  that  is  water  acFvated  to  normalize  the  ph  of  the   hair  and  scalp  and  remove  minerals  and  oxidizers  to  ensure   consistent  and  superior  salon  services.    Great  for  areas  and   salons  with  hard  water  condiFons.  
  11. 11. Section A Essential Information About the Hair and Scalp 11      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  12. 12. The Structure of Hair Hair can be divided into 3 main elements: The cuticle The cortex The medulla 12      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  13. 13. The Cuticle This is the outer layer of hair and comprises between 7 and 10 layers of flat scales. It protects the cortex underneath it. It is transparent. Take the pH up the scale and the cuticle opens Lower the pH and the cuticle closes down. The cuticle can be damaged by daily combing and brushing, as well as environmental influences, e.g. the sun. 13      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  14. 14. The Cortex The cortex makes up the majority of the hair. It is here that we can permanently alter the color or shape of the hair. The cortex also determines how strong and how elastic the hair is. The color pigments are found in the cortex. 14      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  15. 15. The Medulla The medulla is found in the centre of the hair. It is a hollow shaft and is often fragmented, rather than being a continuous tube. It is believed that the original function of the medulla was to assist with insulation – this function is present in the fur of many animals. 15      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  16. 16. The Composition of Hair Hair is composed partially from a special protein called keratin. Keratin is formed from a collection of amino acids, which form chains. These chains are held together by chemical bonds and there are 2 types: Temporary, e.g. hydrogen bonds, which can be broken through regular processes (washing, blow drying). Permanent, e.g. disulfide bonds, which are insoluble in water. Cystine is an amino acid that forms disulfide bonds and cystine can account for up to 24% of keratin in hair. When we color hair, it is the protein in hair that the color pigments attach to and so it is essential to have the correct protein levels. 16      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  17. 17. The Composition of Hair The rest of our hair is made up of water, fatty acids and other trace elements. Moisture levels can fluctuate according to external influences, such as drying, the sun and humidity levels in the hair. When hair becomes damaged and loses protein, moisture levels increase, as more moisture is absorbed to take the place of the protein This is why protein and moisture balance is critical. 17      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  18. 18. The Growth Cycle of Hair 18      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  19. 19. The Growth Cycle of Hair The characteristics of our hair is determined in the follicle. Once the hair leaves the follicle, these characteristics do not change naturally. We have around 100,000 to 150,000 follicles on our scalp. The cells that create our hair are formed in the dermal papilla They reproduce at the fastest rate of all cells in the human body. Each follicle produces approximately 10 - 26 hairs in a person’s lifetime. On average we shed around 100 hairs per day as part of the natural growth cycle. 19      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  20. 20. Ethnic Differences The shape of the hair (straight, wavy, curly) is influenced by the shape of the hair follicle and its position in the scalp. Different ethnic groups have some shared common characteristics. There are 3 basic groups: Caucasian Asian Afro-Caribbean. 20      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  21. 21. Caucasian Hair Hair shaft: Oval Diameter of hair: Mid thickness Shape of hair: Straight, wavy or curly color of hair: Blonde, brown or red Growth rate of hair: Approximately 1.2cm per month Number of hair follicles: Highest number 21      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  22. 22. Asian Hair Hair shaft: Round Diameter of hair: Thickest Shape of hair: Straight color of hair: Black Growth rate of hair: Approximately 1.3cm per month Number of hair follicles: Lowest number 22      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  23. 23. Afro-Caribbean Hair Hair shaft: Flat Diameter of hair: Finest Shape of hair: Curly, tightly coiled color of hair: Black Growth rate of hair: Approximately 0.9cm per month Number of hair follicles: Mid number 23      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  24. 24. Hair Types Comparison Hair Shaft Thickness Shape color Rate of Growth Density of Hair Follicles Caucasian Oval Mid- thickness Straight, wavy, curly Blonde, brown, red 1.2cm/ month Most dense Asian Round Thickest Straight Black 1.3cm/ month Least dense Afro- Caribbean Flat Finest Curly, tightly coiled Black 0.9cm/ month Mid- density 24      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  25. 25. The Scalp Our skin comprises 3 main layers: The Subcutaneous Layer: This contains the blood vessels and nerves that rise up through the other 2 layers. The Dermis: This mid layer is composed of collective tissue of collagen and elastin, as well as blood vessels and nerve endings. This network provides the epidermis above with the nutrients it needs. Hair follicles are found in the dermis. 25      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  26. 26. The Scalp The Epidermis: This top or outer layer provides a barrier against damaging external factors, e.g. UV radiation, micro- organisms and also against water loss. There are several layers within the epidermis and cells are produced in the lowest one (Basal Layer) and work their way upwards becoming flatter in shape and hard through keratinisation until they reach the final layer (Horny Layer) where they are finally shed. In humans this shedding is a constant process. 26      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  27. 27. The Scalp Healthy hair requires a healthy scalp. Hair needs the correct amounts of nutrients which are supplied through the network of vessels and nerves in the scalp. A dry, flaky scalp may not be able to carry out its protective function against external factors and may itself be sensitive to external factors. 27      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  28. 28. Section B Hair: Post-Cancer Analysis and Care 28      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  29. 29. The Hair and Cancer - Chemotherapy The cells that produce our hair have the fastest rate of growth of all cells in the human body. Cancer cells also reproduce rapidly and chemotherapy is designed to target these fast growing cells, which is why our hair can be affected. The hair may start to grow back before the end of the treatment. There may be a number of differences between the new hair and the client’s hair before chemotherapy e.g.: the hair might grow back very fine at first it may be a different texture or color it may be curly it may also be grey. In most cases, but not all, the hair will revert back to its previous condition. 29      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  30. 30. The Hair and Cancer - Radiotherapy The hair grows back slower than after chemotherapy. The hair may also grow back fine. In some cases, the hair does not grow back or grows back in patches. After both types of treatment, the hair that grows back is often weak in protein. 30      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  31. 31. The Scalp and Cancer After chemotherapy, the scalp can be very dry and scaly. There are specialist treatments available, which may be suitable – the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse. These treatments deliver nutrients to the scalp and protect it from harmful environmental influences. They can also help to repair and moisturise the scalp, reducing irritation and inflammation. Some ingredients used in such products include: Biotin, Folic Acid, Niacin, Thiamine HCL, Pantothenic Acid (Panthonol): B vitamins, required for healthy skin, hair and nails. Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Geranium, Rosemary extracts: anti-inflammatory, anti-septic and soothing agents. Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent damage caused by unstable molecules. 31      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  32. 32. The Hair and Cancer Until the hair is long enough, an aqueous cream may be suitable for use on the scalp – the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse. Once the hair is long enough, a gentle shampoo and conditioner can be used. Avoid products containing salt and harsh sulphates and look for ones including plant oils (e.g. Jojoba and Sweet Almond oil), which work in a similar way to the naturally occurring oils from our scalp and condition the hair. UV filters, e.g. sunflower extract, help to protect the hair from harmful environmental influences. Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent damage caused by unstable molecules. 32      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  33. 33. Hair Analysis You have a new client, who has been through chemotherapy and now wants to take off the wig. You need to know how to treat them. As we have already discussed, hair is a delicate balance of protein, moisture and other elements. If hair has this correct balance, it will stretch by 30% when wet and return to its original length without any damage to the hair. The products chosen for each client will depend on the results of their elasticity test. No stretch – if the hair does not stretch, it is low in moisture. Stretch and no return – if the hair stretches, but does not return to its original length, then it is low in protein. Stretch and break – if hair stretches and snaps, then it is low in both moisture and protein. 33      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  34. 34. Hair Analysis 34      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  35. 35. Hair Analysis and Treatment Demonstration 35      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  36. 36. Home Hair Care Treatments can be highly effective from the first application in the salon. However, often repeated applications are required to get the hair back to optimum condition. It is important that the client uses the correct products at home. 36      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  37. 37. Section C Hair: coloring, Perming and Straightening 37      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  38. 38. coloring The Hair When: Once the client has at least 3-6 inches of regrowth, it may be possible to consider coloring the hair. Condition of hair and scalp: coloring should only take place if the hair and scalp are healthy. Do not color the hair if the hair or scalp are brittle, excessively dry or flaky, irritated or breaking. It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory result on hair which is not in good condition. 38      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  39. 39. Types of color Technique Pigment Type Effect on Hair Example Products Temporary Direct pigment Coats the hair and lasts 1 wash color mousse Semi-permanent Direct pigment Coats the hair and lasts 6 – 8 washes Semi-permanent color Demi-permanent Oxidative pigment Penetrates the cuticle and lasts more than 8 washes Permanent color with a low level of peroxide Permanent Oxidative pigment Changes the existing color in the hair Permanent color with medium to high level of peroxide 39      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  40. 40. Advice For coloring Avoid colors containing oxidative pigments for the first few applications – start with temporary and semi-permanent colors until the hair becomes stronger. When using permanent colors, avoid the darker shades, as these have higher percentages of PPDs / PTDs. Start with off-the-scalp coloring for the first few applications. Avoid aggressive chemicals in the hair colors, e.g. ammonia or resorcinol. Advise the client on a suitable home hair care regime. 40      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  41. 41. coloring The Hair Always carry out a skin sensitivity test. Ensure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions and allow 48 hours for the test to be completed. If the client experiences any sort of redness, itching, irritation or inflammation then wash off the color immediately and do not proceed to color the hair. If the sensitivity test is fine, then carry out a strand test. Our experience has shown that sometimes the color result can end up a couple of shades lighter than expected and a strand test should help to eliminate the need to correct the color at a later stage. Discuss any concerns or questions you have with the manufacturer of the hair color. 41      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  42. 42. Perming and Straightening The Hair Follow the advice for coloring regarding condition of the hair and avoid harsh chemicals. With straightening, the repeated combing of the hair during the process can put it under a lot of stress and particularly hair that is weak in protein can be prone to breaking under these conditions. 42      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  43. 43. Section D Questions and Answers 43      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  44. 44. Questions and Answers Some questions to ask your client: How long is it since your treatment for cancer has been completed? Are you currently taking any medication? Have you experienced any previous reaction to hair color / perms / straightening products? Is your scalp itchy or sensitive? Have you ever experienced a reaction to permanent make-up or a skin tattoo? Which products do you currently use on your hair? How do you brush / comb / dry your hair? 44      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  45. 45. Questions and Answers Some questions to ask your stylist: What will my hair be like when it grows back? How long after my treatment will my hair grow back? How long will it be before my hair returns to how it was before the cancer? When will I be able to color / perm / straighten my hair? How often should I get my hair cut? What products should I use? What is the best way for me to brush / comb / dry my hair? 45      (888)  213-­‐4744  
  46. 46. Organic Salon Systems The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional- only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance Online: Facebook: YouTube: Twitter: Color Site: Phone: (888) 312-4744 Fax: (727) 585-2300 Email: 46      (888)  213-­‐4744