Evaluation of finishes

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Evaluation of finishes

  1. 1. EVALUATION OF FINISHES SUBMITTED TO : MR. JANMAY SINGH HADA PRESENTED BY : ADHISHESH VERMA AJAY SINGH CHAUHAN AVISHEK KUMAR SHANU RIDDHI MALVIYA SHYAMLEE SHREYA
  2. 2. Types of finishes we have evaluated : WATER REPELLENT AND WATER PROOF SOIL RESISTENT FLAME RESISTENT CREASE RESISTENT RESIN ( DURABLE PRESS) SANFORIZATION
  3. 3. INTRODUCTION Water proof Water repellent Treated with chemicals to give them a property which makes them water resistant. Uses: raincoats, umbrellas, and tarpaulins. It means water, if showered on the fabric briefly, cannot make the fabric wet. Uses: breathable fabrics. 1. WATER RESISTANT FINISH
  4. 4. Water repellent Non Durable: Wax Durable: Fluoro polymer Water proof Durable: Synthetic Rubber/ Polymer like polyurethane
  5. 5. COMPARISON
  6. 6. RAIN TEST BREATHING TEST SPRAY TEST T E S T I N G As specified in JIS L 1092.
  7. 7. BEST •100 pts •90 pts GOOD •80 pts •70 pts •50 pts WORST •0 pts
  8. 8. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) Water repellent Finishing Cost i) Water repellent finishing Chemicals 3.2-4.5 ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40 iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50 iv) Steam 0.25-0.30 v) Electricity 0.25-0.30 Drying Cost in CDR i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 0.66-0.70 iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50 Curing Cost in Stenter i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 1.9-2.2 iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0 Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 7.20-8.10 Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for WATER REPELLENT Finishing
  9. 9. 2. SOIL RESISTANT FINISHES: Permit relatively easy removal of soil. Necessary in hydrophobic fiber. Durable for 40 to 50 washes
  10. 10. EVALUATION: OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING SOIL REDEPOSITION MOISTURE TRANSPORT
  11. 11. OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING: It specifies all the parameters that strongly influence soil release of oily soil.
  12. 12. SOIL REDEPOSITION: The fabric to be tested are exposed to a soiling medium during laundering with standard detergent. The change in reflectance of the fabric before and after the testing is an indication of redeposition potential of fabric.
  13. 13. MOISTURE TRANSPORT: The procedure is used to determine the degree of absorbency of fabric with soil release agents.
  14. 14. 3. FLAME RESISTENT FINISH • The time in seconds for which a fabric can withstand a standard fire resistance test. Flame- resistance rating • A flame resistant fabric is one whose flame resistant rating is high i.e. above 150Flame-resistant • Uniforms of firefighters, military personnel, police officers, paramedics, welders, some industrial workers; Children’s sleepwear USES:
  15. 15. TESTING Vertical Strip test Testing for thermoplastics STANDARDS Heat transfer EN 367 Limited Flame Spread EN 532 EVALUATION OF F.R. FINISH :
  16. 16. The extent of charring is given by ‘char length’. This is the difference in millimeters between the original specimen length and the undamaged length of the specimen. The duration of ‘after-flame’ i.e. the time in seconds that elapses between the removal of the standard gas lighting flame and the flame extinction is noted. The time to travel between two markers 500 mm apart is observed (=t). The rate of propagation is then given as (500 / t) x 60 mm / minute, where t is in seconds. The rate of propagation of the flame is measured in terms of the distance in millimeters per minute that the base of flame travels up a strip 900 mm long and 75 mm wide. VERTICAL STRIP TEST
  17. 17. Three samples consisting of five specimens each are tested. An item is considered acceptable if The average char length of the five specimens that make up a sample does not exceed 180 mm TESTING CRITERION
  18. 18. Heat transfer EN 367 The incident heat flux is 80 kW/m². The time (s) for the temperature to rise 24 +/- 0.2°C is recorded. The mean result of three specimens is calculated as the heat transfer index (HTI) EN 367 measures the rate at which materials transmit convective heat from one side of the material to the other
  19. 19. Levels Requirements: B1 3 < HTI < 6 sec. B2 7 < HTI < 12 sec. B3 13 < HTI < 20 sec. B4 21 < HTI < 30 sec. B5 HTI > 31 sec.
  20. 20. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) Fire-Retardant Finishing Cost i) Fire Retardant finishing Chemicals 4.4-5.0 ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40 iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50 iv) Steam NIL v) Electricity 0.25-0.30 Drying Cost in CDR i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 0.66-0.70 iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50 Curing Cost in Stenter i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 1.9-2.2 iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0 Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 9.83-11.4 Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for Fire Retardant Finishing Reference: J.T. M. R&D Dept.
  21. 21. 4. CREASE RESISTANT FINISHES: Purpose: To reduce annoying and unsightly wrinkling in apparel. Used in : blouses, shirts ,pants. Applied: cotton rayon and flax
  22. 22. 1. TOOTAL TEST 2. THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST 3. VISUAL COMPARISION AGAINST STANDARDS EVALUATION:
  23. 23. THE TOOTAL TEST: •Test specimens are cut from the fabric. •The specimen is folded over and creased by placing under a strip of spring steel with a 500 g weight to supply the pressure for creasing. •After 5 min, the specimen is removed and suspended over a wire and allowed for recovery for 3 min ,after which the distance between the ends of the inverted ‘V’ is read from a scale engraved on a mirror below the wire . •To avoid touching of the specimen.
  24. 24. THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST: The instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen. Directly under the center of the dial is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the recovery angle. The Shirley crease recovery tester
  25. 25. VISUAL COMPARISION AGAINST STANDARDS: •The fabric is creased in a random manner •Assessed against either photographic standards or against three dimensional replicas of creased fabrics.
  26. 26. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) Crease resistantFinishing Cost i) Crease resistant finishing Chemicals 2.10-2.50 ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40 iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50 iv) Steam 0.25-0.30 v) Electricity 0.25-0.30 Drying Cost in CDR i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 0.66-0.70 iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50 Curing Cost in Stenter i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 1.9-2.2 iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0 Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10 Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for CREASE RESISTANT Finishing :
  27. 27. 5. Resin Finish :- Any Finish Which Is Treated By Chemical Is Known As “RESIN Finish”.
  28. 28. Method :- PAD DRY CURE At least 2 functional group i.e. hydroxyl group and 2 Methylol groups react with cellulose hydroxyl compounds in DMDHEU resin.
  29. 29. Wrinkle Free Fabrics :-
  30. 30. Durable Press Fabrics :-
  31. 31. Parameters To Estimate The Costing Of Resin Finish :- Type Of Material. Chemical Used Cloth Length Chemical Cost Labor Cost Transportation Cost
  32. 32. Parameters To Evaluate The Resin Finish :- •Texture, Look, Appearance, Drapeability etc.Aesthetic •Handling, Stability, Strength •Stiffness, Wear ability etc. Functional
  33. 33. 6. SANFORIZATION • Process of treatment used for cotton fabrics. Mostly used for textiles made from natural or chemical fibers.Definition • “To place the fabric on the extended surface of a rubber blanket represented by the concave surface ”.Mechanism • Used mainly for denims USES:
  34. 34. Standards for Shrinkage of Sanforized Labeled Woven Fabrics Woven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction when subjected to the wash-test method of the United States Federal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675. Standards for Shrinkage of Sanfor-Knit Labeled Knit Fabrics Knit fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 5% in either the longitudinal or the cross direction when subjected to the wash-test AATCC 135-1987 or ISO 6330(60 degree, tumble dry). STANDARDS
  35. 35. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) Sanforizing Cost i) Sanforizing Chemicals 2.10-2.50 ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40 iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50 iv) Steam 0.25-0.30 v) Electricity 0.25-0.30 Drying Cost in CDR i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 0.66-0.70 iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50 Curing Cost in Stenter i) Manpower 0.3-0.40 ii) Steam 1.9-2.2 iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0 Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10 Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for SANFORIZING

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