GOINGFORTHEurAHs   PARK CITY, A FORMER SILVER-MINING TOWN, SHOOTS FOR                                     .              #...
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GoJorit         -",u""hll_          KLIZTI WAS ANI ADULTERESS WHO MAt     shapt   . fort; rc,methinB     tanicr?Whatt goin...
r--SHOT   IN THE ACT. SHE BUSIES                                  -:                              l         -,:           ...
left by union rabble rousers rvhod come to Park City in 1916     in a futile attempt to organize thc miners.        Anchor...
"This town has survived both burn and bus!" says shop owner Scott                                                         ...
SHOTILD   I GC                                         K,ff                                         rt   :+               ...
FORIT? IASKED MYSELF. SUDDENLYI                                     Shuttling back to tou.n, I                            ...
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National Geographic Traveler - Park City: Going For The High Life


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National Geographic Traveler - Jan 1999
Going For The High Life: Utah's Park City, a former silver-mining town, shoots for the gold as Olympics host and winter hot spot…

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National Geographic Traveler - Park City: Going For The High Life

  1. 1. GOINGFORTHEurAHs PARK CITY, A FORMER SILVER-MINING TOWN, SHOOTS FOR . #, -I )r.1 t::!,@, ltr""a I 3r, *€i di . * t lF It & ,/",t 1Y ffi
  2. 2. P-,:IN:,N,,E,O,. ::.$.* ::,r-:.:.-,..:i..:rr, :&n-:;-_ .."-- -iri+:::s.!r:.i,:13"1 F-..._-
  3. 3. GoJorit -",u""hll_ KLIZTI WAS ANI ADULTERESS WHO MAt shapt . fort; rc,methinB tanicr?Whatt going on herc? HERSELF I rr.ondered. Midlife passagc? Second u.ind? I rvas leeling like NOW the hot:hot Id lancied Inlsell to be u,hen I first skied_Park City in 1982. Could it bt TURNING I u;as expericncing my ovn ON THE Park Cit-v comcback? weil, r,hy not? Park citv LIGHTS. tt itself has specialized in come backs. This late 1800s silver boom totvn uas razcd bv lire in 1898 but sprang back undauntecl. After being rebrrilt, the toun eventually gter" tu 10,000. Most of the ProsPectors left, horv- er,er, g,hen the silrer market crashed during the Depression By thc end of World War II, Park City had becomc a ghost torm. Not until the 1960s did good fortunc return- rn dorvn- hill skis. Nou., Utahs legendary snou, the Sundance Film Fes- tival, and the onslaught of the 2002 Winter Olvmpics have helped fashion this former miners gulch into a mecca for ,poitr, art, ancl food uhere a resurgent population ofabout z,ooo plays host to some half million Iisitors each year ain Strect, the heart of Park Citr, is rife lrith resurrection tales. Side- stcpping the slope are lancifulVicto- rian clapboards, painted cinnamon, canar,v, and sage mostlY boutiques, eateries, and lodgings nolr. At the top of the hill, I stopped in at the 1904 Imperial Hotel, a board- inghouse turned iaura Ashlcvesque B&B. With.a "horvd;-d6" jeln-clacl innkeeper Karcn Hart shorved me the Mayflower Room, replete with turn of-the-ccnturv lurnishings, aclan- lbot tub, and a resident ghost. "LizzY rvas an adultcress," Hart said laconicalll. "Shc uas shot in the act, and she busies her- selfnowturning on the lights and the clock radio" Back out on Main Sfeet, I made my uay past replicas of gas strcetlights Iining the narrow sideualks, norv heaped uith ,r-roor,. ,ih.,rky p-ting fog ticd to one pole Over 120 of rvas the buildingsh"r" ut". o.t ihe Natiotlul Historic Register, and plaques describe each one. City Hall built in 1885, is a muse- rr- ro.n uduvr. Mining memorabilia, a stagecoach, and a dis- play on the i-ristory oiskiing sct the scere But vestiges of the i".i-tigl-tt district and the old territorial jail whisper more in- triguiig yarns about the davs rvhen Park Citv uns nicknamed ttlJ"Si" bity ol Utah." Plank stairs creaked into dankness as I clcscended io the brick cells of the jail One wall bore graffiti Skiers soak up the sun and the good times between runs at Deer Valley Resort. Preceding page: Taking flight at the Utah Winter Sports Park, a 2OO2 Winter 0lympics hopeful hones his ski-jumping skills66 NATIONAL CEOCRAPHIC TRAVELER -
  4. 4. r--SHOT IN THE ACT. SHE BUSIES -: l -,: tl r r -1,, tlt rrt . II |tl rl J." 1 I l, I r tt I t [, t t tt 1l t . 1. 3t 1 ; j,i ,i lt j: ,is liJ t" a.5 JANUARY/FEBRUARY rgqq 67
  5. 5. left by union rabble rousers rvhod come to Park City in 1916 in a futile attempt to organize thc miners. Anchoring Main Street, thc old Union Pacific train station now houses a restaurant named Zoont. Robert Redfbrd, the onetime Sundance Kid, aeated this roadhouse grill. Black-and- lhite photos of Sundance Film Festival rvilurers, r,r.ith beam- ing smiles and crystal statuettes, adorn the w.alls. Redford is a longtime patron of the annual festival, rvhich came to Park Citv in 1981. These days, Sundar-rce is Americas premier show case for independently produced films, drau.ing some 13,000 aficionados each January. At the art deco Egyptian Theatre you can take in films w-ith heartfelt stories about identity, redemption, and lor.e. No boom-boom action flicks here. In Zooms grill room I ran into some of the characters r,vho help lend the festival its charm. At the table next to mine r,rere "studio people," as they labeled themselves, "up from L.A. to screen some indies." lnto a cell phone, a ,-oman in black sought dinner reserrations. She described the smoked red trout I uas having as "faaaabulous." Its drizzled dill sour cream sure did me in. I couldnt finish my grilled portobello mushroom on focaccia, it rvas so "maaarvelous."Yet Zooms staff rvas decid- rcmake of Cool Runnings its not. Safety is insured by veteran edly unpretentious, and local. Though "Bob" did not stop b1.. "sliders" at the controls, and volunteer Olvmpic hopefuls help launch the four-personsleds. The 350-pound projectile rat- -r!:rrr.rri"" "1l]ifill:." elping resuscitate the valley around Park tlcd away with the Brazilian aboard then dipped out of sight |il* Siiil City are three ski areas: DeerValley Re- like a Ping Pong ball being sucked through a vacuum tube. ,lllllli::,:,::,,r,:,,,",:iilifiir sort is at the southern box end, Park Ciq, j*;l:{:iliirrriiiril;f;i:il Here at the Winter Sports Park, hardv dilettantes can also Montain Resort is in the middle, ar-rd Th" Iearn to luge or attempt a 65-meter Nordic jump. lllli l1;:1 Canyons formerly Wolf Mountain is Back in Park City proper, I encountered another sort of closcst to Salt Lake City. The 2002 Win- ,,,,,,,liril:::,,,,, ,,.,,,,,tiiliil!:; progress in tlis Mormon state, evidence of u.hv Park City is ter Olympics is based there, in the state capital, some 30 miles becoming an epicurean epicenter. In the past, strict liquor lar.vs to the west.Yet a third of the skiing events will be held here, put a damper on Utah nightlife, and although private clubs and the neu. Utah Winter Sports Park near The Canyons still requirc a "membership" cover charge, liquor 1au.s have will host Nordic ski jumping, luge, and bobslcd. been modified to allow aicohol to be served without a mem- "Dont push too hard," pleadcd a Brazilian man about to be bership in restaurants-as long as one has the "intent" to eat. shoved down the bobslcd run. As only the third such track At the Riverhorse Cafe, I had more than the intent to eat. in North America (after Lake Placid ancl Calgary), this 25- Upstairs in the former Masonic Hall, booths line an airy million-doilar, refrigerated, 90-mph ice groove is statc of the room under murals of horses at gallop. With old friends Id art. And its open to the public. Yet at 5100 per run, somc cheap bumped into on Main Strcet, I quafled an oakv 93 Chardonnay68 NATTONAL GEOCRAPHIC TRAVELER
  6. 6. "This town has survived both burn and bus!" says shop owner Scott Lewis, referring to the 1898 blaze that leveled Park City and the crash of the silver market during the Depression. Now boutiques and crowded clubs (oppositel enliven Main Street. Getting away from the hustle, balloonists take to the air (following paged. "As your mountain host," our sprightly ski guide, Chris, ex- plained on the quad lift, "lll shorv you parts of DeerVallel most people never see." Only three of us had gathered for the Ifee daily tour. Id rented high tech skis called parabolics. These short skjs-known for fast, easy turning are bringing manv has-been skiers back to the slopes. "AIl you have to do is keep up," Chris teased. We skied the Olyrnpic slalom slope, past helmeted kids doing airplane turns, then lve lifted higher. Fresh snorn" had softened the bumps on the double-blues, so we skied a couple at speed. When Chris started 4,earing betn-een the trees, one fellou. begged off. We arched or.er a black diamond face, and as u.e shot into a track and more trees, the other man said hed meet us at the lift. Norv in a tight glade *ith branches slapping my face, I, too, nondered r,r.here mI courage had gone. "Have no flear!" Chris called from below Sure. New snow-, bumps, and trees? I was high-altitude gasping, my goggles fogged. "Be one with the THIIMP! mountainl" he coached. I hopped dou-n three turns at a THIIMP! time and was relieved to make it safely to the bottom. MUTED I celebrated my survival uith a steaming cup of cocoa BLASTS at Stein Eriksen Lodge. This Nor"r egian alpine inn -is WOKE ME mid-mountain right on Deer Vallevs slopes. Tor,r eringAT DAWN. I FELT LIKE I ryAS PART columns, stone slabs, and roaring fireplaces grace the OF THE AYALANCHE TEAM. foyer. Smelling of evergreen, it seems like an exclusive spa.u.hilc grazing on uild mushroom tarts, ginger shrimp pot A colossal deck overlooks the valley and a sprinkling ofstickers, andVictnamese spring rolls. While serious steaks and million-dollar chAteaus. After lunching on soup, mesclunpasta can be had at Riverhorse, my favorite was the scared ahi salad, and liqueur-drenched tiramisu, I gave up my plans fortuna. The slightly charred hunk of ruddiness melted-there afternoon skiing.was no other word for it on my tongue. For dessert, I pur- DeerValley prides itself on foodJormidable, and the show-sued Death By Chocolate, as a ringed moon rose outside the case is the Mariposa, my dinner spot that evening. Amidwindows, lorecasting more sno,-. burnished Douglas fir and eclectic antiques, the crackling Thunp! Thump! Muted blasts uoke mc at dawn. In the Snow firc furnished the loudest sounds. "Degustation," u.as all IFlorver Condominiums, right off Park Citys slopes, I lelt like uttered a traditional European sampler. From salmon toI was part of the ski patrols avalanche team. Later that morn- sea bass, pheasant to lamb, I r,vas presented uith culinarying, I drove up to the DeerValley Resort, uhere I rvas given works of art, each one better than the last. Tastings of Ger-a reception rovale at the SnouParkbase lodge. Green-suited man Sauterne, French Bordeaux, and NapaValley Caber-attendants greeted me, unloaded my equipment, and safe - net complemented the meal, as did an array of sweetsguarded it while I parked. ) la Mariposa. J AN UARY/FE B Rt.lARY r999 69
  8. 8. FORIT? IASKED MYSELF. SUDDENLYI Shuttling back to tou.n, I trundlccl clou-n Main Street, WAS IN uhcrc a slcu of ethnic eater- ies spokc of thc immigrants FLIGHT, u-ho had u.orkccl the nou - defunct mincs. Boutiques such GLIDING as Familv Jcu-cls, Great Garb, and Crosbv Collectibles stai IN open late to offer handmaclc: -ares, r.intage clothing, and ABS OLUTE Natile An-rerican crafts. Atthc Images of Nature photo gallcrr, CLEAR. I admired a grabbing a saLnon miclair. picturc ol a gtiz.z.lv Yet it u.as the crustier: shops I enjoved most. Rock & Sih.er, a brightlv lit spread o1crvstals, fc-,ssils, and ambe r, is run br. a Wild Bill Hickok kind of guv: blond-locked, barrel-chcsted, talc spinning Scott Leu-is. He hcftccl a biscctcd gcoclc, its insides shimmering rvith lar-cndcr- and frostv u-hitc cn.stals. "Mv thm- ilrs bccn in dris busincss lor three generations,"he saicl, adding that hc "gren up in Peruvian copper mines." That explained u,hv he kneu so much about Park Citvs mining histon, its 1,200 milcs of tunnels and the one thats still open lor tours. Doun the street at Southrvest Indian Traders. housed in thc ton n Elks Lodge, I brou secl among big-game trophies, old nooden skis, and colorful col-bov gear pilcd up to thc storcs 25 lbot high punched tin cciling. I cor-ctcd the Lone Rangers original Colt .45 relolvers onlr S50,000 for the pair! "Could I buv just one of the silr,er bullets?" 1 asked proprictor Raette Mullcn, u-ho inforrncd rnc that thcv uouldnt break the set. hose poles are a hazard, manl" the teenage snolr.boardcr screamed as I passed hirn earl-v thc ncxt morning. I l-anted to be lirst to ski tuo Ieet of lresh porrdcr in Park Citvs Jupiter Boul. I skied past an abandoncd silver mine ancl onto the ski iift. Snon.llakes spar.kled in the sunlight. Whcn thc thump, thump;ng of the avalanche charges stopped, I lbllou.ed tracks along a ridge to a pristine perch. Should I go for it? I askcd mvsclf. I inched closer to the edge. I dont rcallv knou, il I pushed * oflor the cornice gave a), but suddcnlv I u.as in fllght. A uar.e of rvhite gushcd over my lace and up m1. back. Mv legs shot fonvard and I rvas gliding, floating in absolute clcar. I flo.,ved through teeming pou.der bctr.rccn snorvv hundred- foot pines as lree and casv as a tuentvsornething Ii jockel. Seems I Aad made a Park City comcback. CaltJornia-basedwriter PETER SHERMAN CROSBY talks about the changes hes seen in Park City on page 8.This is Colorddo ph oto g r aph er IoANNA etNN r osf rs t Je atur e -for the m ag a z ine. JANUARY/FEBRUARY r999 7r