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Soirée Islay II avec Whisky Montréal par Benoit Bailey

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Islay est une île que tout amateur de scotch aimerait visiter au moins une fois dans sa vie. Trois mille habitants, une nature à faire rêver, mais surtout pour l’amateur de single malt, 8 distilleries à découvrir. Pas tourbé ou tourbé, Whisky Montréal vous invite à découvrir celle que l'on surnomme la reine des Hébrides à travers 6 single malts, de sans mention d'âge à âgé de 22 ans.
Ce faisant, vous allez également explorer le maltage et l'importance de la tourbe dans ce processus. Sans oublier de voir comment le terroir de la reine des Hébrides influence l'arôme et le goût de votre whisky favori.
Prenez votre billet de traversier vers Islay le 14 novembre, Benoit vous attend!

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Soirée Islay II avec Whisky Montréal par Benoit Bailey

  1. 1. Islay Queen of The Hebrides Benoit Bailey @RatherBeOnIslay November 14th 2016 Montréal
  2. 2. Caol Ila Ardbeg Laphroaig Gartbeck Kildalton Cross American Monument Loch Gorm Machir Bay Jura Finlaggan Loch Indaal Loch Gruinart RSPB Loch Gruinart Claggan Bay Saligo Bay Ardnahoe
  3. 3. Peated Whisky • Lightly peated: 1 – 5 ppm • Medium peated: 5 – 15 ppm • Heavily peated : 15 – 50 ppm • Super heavily peated : > 50 ppm
  4. 4. Peat • Partial decomposition of organic matter in wetlands because of lack of O2 over thousand of years – Sphagnum – Low growing plants (grass, heather, etc…) • From 10 to 50 cm below ground – Upper part: more smoke than heat – Lower part : more heat than smoke • Composition – 92% organic : contains variable amount of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignins – 8% inorganic : almost ash
  5. 5. Why Peat is Use in Scotch Industry? • Up until the early 1960s: Necessity – Heat needed to dry the malt in the kiln in each distillery – Coal not readily available in remore area • From the 1960s: To flavor the malt – Industrial scale maltings – Limited “artisanal” maltings • Balvenie, BenRiach, Bowmore, Highland Park, Kilchoman, Laphroaig, Springbank
  6. 6. Bruichladdich • Three malt specifications (Bairds Malt from Inverness) – Non peated: Bruichladdich 3-4 ppm – Heavily peated: Port Charlotte 40 ppm – Super heavily peated: Octomore varies ≥ 131 ppm • X.1: Bourbon casks • X.2: Mixed casks (duty-free) • X.3: Islay barley • 7.4: Experimental casks
  7. 7. Bruichladdich Malt specifications phenol (ppm) Finish spirit phenol (ppm) Bruichladdich 3-4 trace Port Charlotte 40 20-25 Octomore 2002 Futures 80.5 29.6 Octomore 2003 Futures 167 46.4 Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004
  8. 8. Octomore .1 Bourbon (ppm) .2 Cask Finished (ppm) .3 Islay Barley (ppm) .4 Virgin Oak (ppm) Aged (ppm) Futures 2002 80.5 Futures 2004 167 1 131 2 140 140 Chateau Petrus 3 152 4 167 167 Château d'Yquem 5 169 6 167 167 Cognac 258 7 208 208 Rhône Syrah 169 167 7 yo Feis Ile ? Oloroso* 10 yo 1st ed 80.5
  9. 9. Bruichladdich 22 yo • Released in 2012 • Distilled before the renaissance in 2001 • 46% • American oak casks • KWM $149.99 + GST (2012 price)
  10. 10. Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
  11. 11. Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
  12. 12. Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
  13. 13. Anonymous. All About Distilling. http://www.manitobabrewhub.ca/learn/all-about-distilling
  14. 14. Barley Dry and store barley Soak (steep) barley in water Air rest Germinate to make malt green Kiln to specification Malted barley Malting complete? Yes No 12% 1st steep 32-35% 50 hours Final steep 46-47% 1-2 days 5-6 days Moisture 15-20% Duration Malting Process 5% Months
  15. 15. Goals of Kilning • Stop the biological activity of the green malt • Produce a dry storable (stable) product ready to be used • Remove undesired flavour • Add flavour – Existing precursors – Peat reek (smoke)
  16. 16. Goals of Kilning • Add flavour from existing precursors – Dimethyl sulphide (DMS) from thermal degradation of S-methylmethionine – Aldehydes from oxydation of unsaturated lipids • Hexanal (green, grassy) • Trans-2-nonenal (cardboard) • Add flavour with peat reek – Adds phenols
  17. 17. Lagavulin 8 yo • Released in 2016 • For 200th anniversary • 48% - colored • Re-fill American oak casks • SAQ $100
  18. 18. Alfred Bernard “From Ardbeg our route homeward lay through the beautiful village of Lagganmhouillin or Lagavulin, “the Mill in the Valley”, and no prettier or more romantic spot could have been chosen for a distillery. The make is pure Islay malt, and is principally sold in Glasgow, England and the Colonies. The make is held in high repute; we tasted some eight years old before starting, which was exceptionnaly fine.” The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom 1887
  19. 19. Lagavulin 8 yo Official Tasting Notes https://www.malts.com/en-gb/our-whisky-collection/lagavulin/lagavulin-8-years-old/
  20. 20. Peat Brings Phenols… • But not all phenols come from peat – But all phenols come from burning plants • Charring of casks (degraded wood carbohydrates – cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins) – Smoky not peaty • Not all phenols are smoky – Vanillin – Eugenol (clove aroma/flavor)
  21. 21. What is in the Peat Reek that is Important Flavourwise? Phenols Phenol Medicinal, antiseptic, iodine, carbolic Guaiacol Flavour of smoke (no aroma) but also medicinal, woody Syringol Aroma of smoke (no flavour) o-cresol Musty, phenolic, medicinal p-cresol Medicinal m-cresol Medicinal, woody, leathery, phenolic Xylenol isomers Medicinal, sweet 4-ethylguaiacol Spicy, smoky, bacon, phenolic, clove https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/magic-mayhem-whisky-phenols-matthew-fergusson-stewart Buxton, Hugues. The Science and Commerce of Whisky. Lee, Paterson, Pigott. J Inst Brewing 2001: 107; 287 http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/index.html
  22. 22. Absorption of Peat Reek • Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Intensity of smoke • Amount of peat • Time exposed to peat reek – Springbank » Hazelburn (non-peated): 30 hours of hot air » Springbank : 6 hours of peat reek + 30 hours of hot air » Longrow: up to 48 hours of peat reek – Laphroaig: 12-15 hours of peat reek – Bowmore: 15 hours of peat reek – Octomore: 120 hours of peat reek in saladin box no hot air
  23. 23. Absorption of Peat Reek • Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Rate of malt drying • Uptake smoke flavours in the range of 20-50% moisture – Maximum 20-30% • Two methods – Peat then dry – Peat and dry
  24. 24. Laphroaig Lore • Released in 2016 • Permanent addition to the range: – “The richest of the rich” • 48% • 7-21 yo American and European oak casks • SAQ $200
  25. 25. http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/
  26. 26. Tasting Notes http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/The-Taste.aspx
  27. 27. Peat Terroir • Not all peat is created equal – Varies in quality and composition depending • Climate • Vegetation – Burnt sphagnum releases more simple phenols – Burnt wood releases more syringol and guaiacol derivatives • Bog type (rainfall or ground water) • Cutting depth – Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015 • 100% made from malt from own kiln not mixed with PE • More cresol and 4-ethyl-guiacol in Laphroaig malt
  28. 28. Peat Terroir Relative Abundances of Pyrolysis Products Islay St. Fergus Orkney Tomintoul Carbohydrate derivatives (%) 26.6 23.5 43.1 50.5 Guaiacyl (%) 20.6 23.6 14.3 11.1 Syringyl (%) 7.8 14.7 4.2 3.3 Phenols (%) 14.6 12.8 12.3 11.6 Nitrogen compounds (%) 3.2 2.5 2.8 1.2 Lignin/phenols 2.0 3.0 1.5 1.25 Syringyl/Guaiacyl 0.38 0.62 0.29 0.30 Harrison and Priest. J Agric Food Chem 2009; 57: 2385-2391
  29. 29. Peat Terroir • Even peat from Islay varies – Climatic bog (blanket bog) - 10% of Scotland • More sphagnum moss, less woody vegetation – Richer in phenols and aromatics – Poorer in carbohydrates, lignin and nitrogen  Castle Hill (Port Ellen) – Local bog (valley/bassin bog) - 1% of Scotland • More sedges and grass – Richer in lignin-derivatives and carbohydrates  Gartbreck moss (Bowmore)  Glenmachrie moss (Laphroaig)
  30. 30. Speyside Tomintoul Aberdeenshire St Fergus Orkney Hobbister Hill Islay Castle Hill Islay Glenmachrie Islay Gartbeck Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4; 333-339
  31. 31. Islay: Glenmachrie moss (bassin/valley bog) Islay: Gartbeck moss (bassin/valley bog) Islay: Castlehill (blanket bog) Orkney: Hobbister Hill (blanket bog) Aberdeenshire: St Fergus (bassin bog) Speyside: Tomintoul (bassin bog) Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4 ; 333-339
  32. 32. CH GM GA
  33. 33. Kilchoman Sanaig • Released in 2015 in French market • 2016: permanent addition to the range • 46% • 75% Oloroso/25% Bourbon casks • SAQ $X
  34. 34. Sanaig, a small rocky inlet North West of the distillery is the name given to this continuously available release. Sanaig has a predominantly sherry cask influence owing to the significant time spent in oloroso sherry Hogsheads. These aged oloroso casks contribute a drastically transformed depth of colour and character compared to the mostly Bourbon cask matured Machir Bay. “A beautiful marriage of bourbon and sherry maturation balanced with classic Islay peat smoke and light citrus sweetness”. Anthony Wills, Founder http://kilchomandistillery.com/our-single-malt-whisky
  35. 35. Tasting Notes • Nose: Soft cooked fruits with caramel and vanilla • Palate: Toffee, peat smoke and citrus lingering sweetness • Finish: A lovely balance of peat smoke, fruit and sweetness http://impexbev.com/kilchoman-distillery/
  36. 36. Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec (ppm by colorometry) Middle cut ABV (%) New make phenol (ppm by HPLC) Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25 Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4 Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10 Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10 Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13 Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18 Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25 Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26 Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown
  37. 37. Ardbeg Dark Cove • Released in 2016 • Committee release 55% vs Ardbeg Day release 46.5% – The darkest Ardbeg ever… • Dark sherry casks… • SAQ $180
  38. 38. Tasting Notes https://www.ardbeg.com/whisky/limited-editions/dark-cove-limited
  39. 39. Impact of Distillation on Peat Levels Foreshots Middle cut Feints
  40. 40. Foreshots Middle cut Feints
  41. 41. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make?
  42. 42. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make?
  43. 43. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make?
  44. 44. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make?
  45. 45. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make
  46. 46. Foreshots Middle cut Feints More Peaty New Make
  47. 47. Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec (ppm by colorometry) Middle cut ABV (%) New make phenol (ppm by HPLC) Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25 Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4 Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10 Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10 Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13 Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18 Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25 Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26 Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown
  48. 48. Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels • Phenols decrease during maturation – Mecanism? • But synergetic nature of oak derived compounds (guaiacol, vanillin, etc…) can enhance the peaty flavors
  49. 49. Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 New Make 10 yo 15 yo 30 yo PPM Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004
  50. 50. Bowmore Devil’s Casks III • Third and final edition • Released in 2015 • 56.7% • Double the Devil: First Fill Pedro Ximenez and oloroso sherry casks • NAS • SAQ $110
  51. 51. Tasting Notes • Nose: Breathe in a wave of rich, dark, exotic fruits, including sultanas, mangos and raisins, fused with earthy angelica root and treacle toffee. • Palate: Give in to temptation and sip the smooth, rounded taste of dates, chocolate fudge and salted treacle, warmed by orange-laced Aruba coffee. • Finish: Finally, savour the powerful, long--lasting finish of smoked fruitcake, blood orange and sea salt. Devilishly rewarding and a great addition to any whisky collection, this limited-edition release not only tells a tale, it spells the end. Bowmore tasting notes
  52. 52. Your Favorite?
  53. 53. Favorites 1 2 3

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