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Genever: History & Mixology

Seminar by Philip Duff, premiered for bartenders invited by Barkonsult Sweden to Gemma Bar, 20 September 2021.

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Genever: History & Mixology

  1. 1. Genever: History & Mixology with Philip Duff This deck: www . slideshare . net / philipduff @philipsduff @oldduffgenever @barkonsultnordic
  2. 2. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Gotheborgs Tidningar 1788 100% Maltwine Genever Returns To Sweden!
  3. 3. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Katrineholms Tidning 1891 100% Maltwine Genever Returns To Sweden!
  4. 4. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  5. 5. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Conrad Hilton (the original) Genever
  6. 6. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Conrad Hilton (the original) Genever Paris Hilton (great-granddaughter) Gin
  7. 7. What Is Genever? The word #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  8. 8. What Is Genever? The word “Genièvre” (French) = juniper #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  9. 9. What Is Genever? The word “Genièvre” (French) = juniper “Genever” (Dutch) = distilled spirit with juniper (word later becomes “jenever” in Holland) #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  10. 10. What Is Genever? The word “Genièvre” (French) = juniper “Genever” (Dutch) = distilled spirit with juniper (word later becomes “jenever” in Holland) “Gin” = English attempt to pronounce “genever” (word later comes to describe a completely different product in English) #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  11. 11. What Is Genever? The Liquid - Typically grain-based distilled spirit #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  12. 12. What Is Genever? The Liquid - Typically grain-based distilled spirit - May contain only maltwine (the pot-still distillate) which is very rare, or both pot-still + column-still distillates (very common) #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  13. 13. What Is Genever? The Liquid - Typically grain-based distilled spirit - May contain only maltwine (the pot-still distillate) which is very rare, or both pot-still + column-still distillates (very common) - Must contain very small amounts of juniper #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  14. 14. What Is Genever? The Liquid - Typically grain-based distilled spirit - May contain only maltwine (the pot-still distillate) which is very rare, or both pot-still + column-still distillates (very common) - Must contain very small amounts of juniper - May contain small amounts of other botanicals - #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  15. 15. What Is Genever? The Liquid - Typically grain-based distilled spirit - May contain only maltwine (the pot-still distillate) which is very rare, or both pot-still + column-still distillates (very common) - Must contain very small amounts of juniper - May contain small amounts of other botanicals - Typically unaged, but may be aged #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  16. 16. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  17. 17. What Is Genever? Holland Rest Of The World
  18. 18. What Is Genever? Holland - 98% of sales in Holland are jonge (new-style, yung-uh) genever. Rest Of The World - Virtually all sales outside Holland are oude (old- style, ow-duh) genever.
  19. 19. What Is Genever? Holland - 98% of sales in Holland are jonge (new-style, yung-uh) genever. - Jonge is often based not on grain but on sugarbeet neutral spirit. Rest Of The World - Virtually all sales outside Holland are oude (old- style, ow-duh) genever. - Oude is virtually always grain-based.
  20. 20. What Is Genever? Holland - 98% of sales in Holland are jonge (new-style, yung-uh) genever. - Jonge is often based not on grain but on sugarbeet neutral spirit. - Jonge typically contains 1½-3% maltwine, and in any case no more than 15% maltwine. Rest Of The World - Virtually all sales outside Holland are oude (old- style, ow-duh) genever. - Oude is virtually always grain-based. - Oude typically contains 17% maltwine or more, and in any case no less than 15% maltwine.
  21. 21. 1269 "He who wants to be rid of stomach pain Should use juniper cooked in rainwater. He who has cramps Cook juniper in wine It's good against the pain" History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  22. 22. 1552, Antwerp “Een Constelijck Distilleerboec” , Philippus Hermanni “genever aqua vitae” History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  23. 23. 1582, Holland A Guide To Distilling, Casper Jansz. Coolhaes. Korenbrandewijn... “in aroma and taste is almost the same as brandy-wine” and is “not only named brandywine but also drunk and paid for as brandywine” History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  24. 24. 1611, Plat’s Delights for Ladies [To make] Usquebath (whiskey), or Irish aqua vitae: To every gallon of good aqua composita, put two ounces of chosen liquorice bruised and cut into small pieces, but first cleansed of his filth, and two ounces of aniseeds that are cleaned and bruised… Whiskey #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  25. 25. Franciscus “Dr. Sylvius” de le Boe 1606: “Distilled wine, genever water, fennel & anise water” taxed in Amsterdam 1614: Sylvius born (Hanover) 1623: “Genever” (the spirit) first mentioned in print in English as “Geneva” 1658: Sylvius becomes a professor (Leiden) famed as an iatrochemist 1672: Word “genever” commonplace in Dutch History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  26. 26. 1623: Philip Massinger The Duke of Milan (London play) “An officer preaching of sobriety, lo unlesse he read it in Genevaprint, lay him by the heels” History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  27. 27. 1623: Philip Massinger Geneva History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  28. 28. 1688: King William (England) - Banned French import spirits - Lowered distilling license fees History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  29. 29. History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Whiskey (originally) Flavorful grain base Tiny amount of botanicals Small number of botanicals Sometimes lightly sweetened Unaged Genever Flavorful grain base Tiny amount of botanicals Small number of botanicals Sometimes lightly sweetened Unaged
  30. 30. History #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever (English) Gin Neutral base HUGE amount of botanicals Large number of botanicals Heavily sweetened (Old Tom gin) until end of 1800s and birth of “London Dry” gin style Unaged Genever Flavorful grain base Tiny amount of botanicals Small number of botanicals Sometimes lightly sweetened Unaged
  31. 31. History: Ceramics until 1600s… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  32. 32. History: 1630 onwards, Glass Bottles #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  33. 33. History: The Bottle(s)… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  34. 34. History: World’s oldest message in a bottle – dropped 1886 in Fiji, found 2018 in Perth, Australia! #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  35. 35. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  36. 36. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever 1862: First cocktail book All 15 “gin” cocktail recipes = 100% maltwine genever
  37. 37. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  38. 38. Udolpho Wolfe Aromatic Schiedam Schnapps 1818: Founded, Hamburg 1832: HQ in NY Mid-1800s: $1m ad budget 1911: Also sold bourbon in same bottles 1918: Sold to Blankenheym & Nolet 1970: B&N bought by Bols History: rise…
  39. 39. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  40. 40. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  41. 41. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  42. 42. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  43. 43. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  44. 44. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  45. 45. History: rise… #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  46. 46. Genever 101 1902: The Seal of Schiedam – too little, too late? #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  47. 47. Genever 101 1914:World War 1 History: …and fall #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  48. 48. Genever 101 1919: US Prohibition History: …and fall #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  49. 49. Genever 101 1939: World War 2 History: …and fall #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  50. 50. Genever 101 Survival Jonge (“young”, i.e. new-style) genever 1952 (Bols) #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  51. 51. Genever 101 Survival 1966 -1986 No 100% maltwine genever with the Seal of Schiedam produced at all. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  52. 52. Genever 101 Price Wars of the 1970s & 1980s Filliers, Belgium (near Ghent, and, indeed, near Nazareth) Survival #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  53. 53. Genever 101 Rebirth of 100% Maltwine Genevers with the Seal of Schiedam #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever 1986 1998 2017
  54. 54. Genever 101 How To Make It: Step 1 Maltwine (i) Ferment a multi-grain mash (ii) Distill 3-4 times in pot still (a) 1st distillation “Ruwnat”, c. 12% abv (b) 2nd distillation “Enkelnat”, c. 24% abv (c) 3rd distillation “Bestnat”/Moutwijn”, 46 – 48% abv. (d) Optional 4th distillation “korenwijn” #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  55. 55. Genever 101 How To Make It, Step 2 Maltwine Genever 2. (i) Redistill some of the moutwijn (maltwine) with juniper, (ii) Combine the “straight” moutwijn (maltwine) with the redistilled juniper moutwijn #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  56. 56. Genever 101 How To Make It, Step 3 Korenwijn, Oude (old-style) & jonge (new-style) 3. (i) Redistill moutwijn (maltwine) OR neutral alcohol with botanicals (ii) Blend with the right % of “straight” moutwijn (iii) Add sugar (optional) (iv)Age in vats of at least 700 liters for at least 1 year (optional) (v) Filter & reduce to bottling strength #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  57. 57. Genever 101 The Genever Rules #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever Min. Maltwine % Usual maltwine % Usual neutral alcohol % Max. sugar? 100% Maltwine 100% 100% 0% 0% Korenwijn 51% 53% 47% 20g/l Oude (old-style) 15% 17% 83% 20g/l Jonge (new-style) MAX. 15% 1-3% 97% 10g/l
  58. 58. Genever 101 2014: UNESCO Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  59. 59. Genever 101 Old Duff Genever, distilled at Herman Jansen, Schiedam #RealDutchGenever
  60. 60. Genever 101 Old Duff Genever, distilled at Herman Jansen, Schiedam (T & IG: @oldduffgenever) Style: 100% maltwine with Seal of Schiedam Grains: ⅔ rye, ⅓ malted barley, fermented 5 days, then whole-grains distilled 3 times Botanicals: Juniper, English Bramling hops, all redistilled with maltwine Strength: 45% abv #RealDutchGenever
  61. 61. Genever 101 Old Duff Genever, distilled at Herman Jansen, Schiedam (T & IG: @oldduffgenever) Style: Oude (old-style), 53% maltwine Grains: 53% maltwine (⅔ rye, ⅓ malted barley, whole-grains distilled), 47% neutral grain (wheat) spirit. Botanicals: Juniper, lemon peel, orange peel, coriander, star anise & liquorice, all redistilled with maltwine Strength: 40% abv #RealDutchGenever
  62. 62. Genever Mixology - Real genever is a masterful grain distillate; whisky cocktails are the best template for genever cocktails - Maltwine % and the dominant grains used will hint at which “whisky” a genever most resembles. E.g.; 100% maltwine genever with a majority of rye will taste close to a rye whiskey. - The higher the maltwine content, the better it will pair with creamy/viscous ingredients such as dairy, horchata, etc. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  63. 63. Genever Mixology Classic: The (Phil) Collins 1826: Brought from NY to London by Stephen Price, theater manager, who popularized it. 2oz. / 60ml Old Duff Genever 40% abv 1oz. / 30ml fresh lemon juice ½oz. / 15ml rich sugar syrup (2:1) Shake with ice Strain into ice-filled longdrink Top with soda Garnish: lemon slice #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  64. 64. Genever Mixology Classic: The Improved Gin Cock-Tail 1876: New York, 2nd edition of Jerry Thomas’ Bar-tender’s Guide Recommended recipe: 2oz / 60ml Old Duff 100% Maltwine Genever 1 barspoon / 5ml Merlet Trois Citrus or maraschino liqueur 1 barspoon / 5ml rich simple syrup (2:1) 3 dashes Bitter Truth Boker’s/”Bogart’s” bitters 1 dash absinthe Stir with ice & Strain straight up Garnish with a lemon zest #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  65. 65. Genever Mixology Classic: The Martinez/Manhattan 1883: First mentioned in Chicago as “Martinez or Manhattan, made with whiskey or gin”, “gin” then meaning “genever”. Recommended recipe: 2oz / 60ml Mancino vermouth rosso 1oz / 30ml Old Duff 100% Maltwine Genever 1 barspoon / 5ml maraschino liqueur 3 dashes Bitter Truth Boker’s/”Bogart’s” bitters Stir with ice Strain straight up Lemon zest & 3 speared cherries #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  66. 66. Genever Mixology Contemporary: Suriname Swizzle (Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Latitude 29, New Orleans) 1.75oz. / 52.5ml Old Duff Genever 40% abv 1oz. / 30ml fresh lime juice 1oz. / 30ml Beachbum’s Coconut Syrup* Dash of aromatic bitters Pour over crushed ice Swizzle & hand-mould ice ball Garnish with a lime zest *Reduce 2 cups of coconut water to 1 cup, add 1 cup cane sugar & stir to dissolve #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  67. 67. Genever Mixology Contemporary: The Kingsman (Nathan O’Neill, The NoMad Bar, New York) 1oz. / 30ml Old Duff 100% Maltwine Genever ½oz. / 15ml Koval or FEW rye whiskey ½oz. / 15ml blanc agricole rum ½oz. / 15ml oloroso sherry 1 barspoon 5ml banana liqueur ½oz. / 15ml brown butter fat-washed Bitter Truth Golden Falernum* Stir with ice Strain over an oversized ice cube #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  68. 68. Genever Mixology Contemporary: The Kingsman (Nathan O’Neill, The NoMad Bar, New York) *Brown Butter Fat-Washed Bitter Truth Golden Falernum Makes approx. 700ml. Toast 100g regular unsalted butter in a pan until light brown. Stir with 700ml of falernum, bottle (in plastic!), seal and place for 24 hours in a freezer. Strain the liquid off through a fine filter such as a chinois. #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  69. 69. Genever Mixology Contemporary: Gate No. 1 (Ago Perrone, The Connaught, London) 20 ml Old Duff Genever 40% abv 20 ml Dorothy Parker gin 5 ml peated Scotch single-malt whisky 15 ml Mancino vermouth rosso 20 ml pinot noir wine 20 ml tawny port 10 ml milk jam (dulce de leche) 30 ml strawberry tulsi (basil) kombucha Stir with ice & strain straight up Garnish with a chocolate “gate”
  70. 70. Genever Mixology Contemporary: Moonless Sky (Arlene Wong, The Pontiac, Hong Kong) 0.5oz / 15ml Old Duff Genever 40% abv 1.5oz / 45ml Mr. Black coffee liqueur 0.5oz / 15ml Mancino vermouth bianco 1 barspoon (5ml) rich simple syrup (2:1) Shake hard with ice Strain straight up Garnish with 3 coffee beans #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  71. 71. Genever Mixology Contemporary: The Old Short Shorts (Nick Bennett, Porchlight, New York) 0.75oz / 22.5ml Old Duff Genever 40% abv 0.75oz / 22.5ml Campari 0.75oz / 22.5ml Mancino vermouth rosso 0.75oz / 22.5ml fresh lemon juice 0.5oz / 15ml orgeat syrup 0.5oz / 15ml passionfruit syrup Shake hard with ice Strain over crushed ice #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  72. 72. Genever Mixology: Boilermakers! #RealDutchGenever @OldDuffGenever
  73. 73. Thank you! Genever: History & Mixology with Philip Duff This deck: www . slideshare . net / philipduff @philipsduff @oldduffgenever @barkonsultnordic

Seminar by Philip Duff, premiered for bartenders invited by Barkonsult Sweden to Gemma Bar, 20 September 2021.

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