GAU-100x Gauge System Installation Instructions
IMPORTANT! Read these instructions thoroughly before installing or using this
Thank you for purchasing a WRXtra Gauge System for your Subaru
Impreza. Please read these instructions carefully to ensure optimum product
performance. This product is designed for installation in 2002 or later Subaru
2. Contents of package:
(1) Gauge Pod
(4) Gauge Pod Screws and Clips
(1) Main Wiring Harness
(1) Illumination Wiring Harness
(1) Red T-Tap
(1) 3/8” Cable Clamp
(1) Cable Clamp Screw
(12) Zip Ties
(1) Spare Fuse
If you ordered a boost gauge, your package will also have:
(1) Silicone Boost Gauge Line
(2) ½” Hose Clamps
(1) 3/8” Hose Clamp
(1) 3/8” Cable Clamp
If you ordered an oil pressure gauge, your package will also have:
(1) Sandwich Adaptor w/Sender(s)
(1) Sandwich Adaptor Threaded Post
3. Tools Required:
#2 Phillips Screwdriver (Both standard and stubby)
Slotted Screwdriver or 8mm Nutdriver
12mm & 15/16” Sockets
Long (>12”) Socket Extension
17mm Box Wrench
7/16” Crow’s Foot Wrench
4. Preparing for Installation
IMPORTANT: Before beginning any work, remove the negative (-) cable from
1. Remove cup holder by opening
it and removing the 2 Phillips
screws that attach it. There is a
tab on the underside that will
interfere with the stereo
surround trim, so be careful
removing it. The cup holder
should pull straight back and up
to clear the tab. Set cup holder
2. Remove the stereo surround
trim by pulling it off, starting
where the cup holder was
removed and working your way
around. There are 4 clips that
hold it in place. Set trim aside.
3. Remove the vent assembly by
pulling it off. Disconnect the
hazard switch plug and set
4. Remove clock by pulling it straight up. It may help to push back on the
2 clips that hold the front of the clock in the dash. They are directly
above the vent openings. Disconnect the clock plug and set assembly
5. Remove the 6 Phillips screws
that secure the stereo. Pull the
stereo out enough to disconnect
the antenna, ground, and main
connector. Set stereo aside.
If your kit includes an oil pressure and/or temperature gauge, perform the
following steps. If not, skip to step 6.
NOTE: This step can be done at any time before the kit is installed. It may be
more convenient to co-ordinate this step with a scheduled oil change.
1. Following standard oil changing procedures, drain the crankcase oil
and remove the filter.
2. Apply a light film of oil to the sandwich adaptor O-ring. Install the
sandwich adaptor body with the oil pressure sender towards the rear of
the car. Install the threaded post finger tight.
3. Position the sandwich adaptor
so that there is even clearance
between sender(s) and the
exhaust, oil pan, etc. Continue
to tighten the threaded post to
30 to 40 lbs. ft. using a 1” deep
4. Install a new filter and tighten to
5. Reinstall oil drain plug and fill crankcase with the appropriate amount
of manufacturer recommended oil.
NOTE: While it is not necessary, removing the intercooler allows for easier
access to the firewall area for routing cables. If you choose to remove the
intercooler, follow these steps. If you choose to leave it in place, skip to step 13.
6. Remove the 3 rubber hoses
from the intercooler by pulling
them off the metal tubes.
7. Loosen the hose clamp on the
intake side of the intercooler-to-
8. Loosen the hose clamp on the
turbo side of the turbo-to-
9. Remove the (2) 12 mm bolts
holding the blowoff valve (BOV)
to the intercooler and set them
aside. Leave the BOV hoses
10. Remove the (2) 12 mm bolts
holding the intercooler to the
mounting brackets and set
11. Standing on the driver’s side of the vehicle, grasp the intercooler
firmly and move it towards the back of the vehicle to remove the
intercooler-to-intake hose from the intake, and then towards the drivers
side of the vehicle to remove the turbo-to-intercooler hose from the
12. Lift the intercooler up and out of the vehicle.
13. Locate and remove the large firewall grommet directly above the
heater hoses and to the left of the clutch master cylinder.
1. Locate the end of the wiring harness with the 2 modular plugs.
2. Feed the 2 plugs through the hole in the firewall. The easiest way to
do this is to attach a stiff wire (such as a straightened coat hanger) to
the end of the harness. Insert the other end of the wire through the
hole, then go inside the passenger’s compartment and pull the wire
through. If your kit includes a boost gauge, feed the boost hose
through at this time.
NOTE: You may need to trim the firewall insulation slightly to allow the plugs to
WARNING: Do not force the harness through. Doing so may damage the
connectors and cause the gauges to not work, or work incorrectly.
3. Pull the harness into the
passenger’s compartment until
the firewall grommet makes
contact with the firewall.
4. From the engine compartment, push the grommet into the firewall hole
until it locks in place.
5. Run the main harness behind
the clutch master cylinder.
Locate the throttle cable as it
exits the firewall to the right of
the clutch master cylinder. The
main harness will follow the
throttle cable to the battery.
6. Lift the red safety cap from the
positive terminal on the battery.
You will see a nut that secures
several ring terminals to the
battery clamp. Remove this
7. Locate the ring terminal on the main harness. Feed the ring terminal
into the red safety cap and slip it over the stud with the other ring
8. Secure the nut and reposition
the red safety cap.
9. If your kit includes an oil
pressure and/or temperature
gauge the wiring harness near
the battery connection will split
into to sections. Run the
section of the wiring harness
that does not go to the battery
connector between the battery
and the windshield washer
reservoir down to the engine
10. Run the wiring harness along
the top of the cross member lip
and secure with the metal clips.
Push the connector(s) onto the
spade terminal(s) on the
sender(s). Orange is for oil
temperature (small sender) and
brown is for oil pressure (large
If your kit includes a boost gauge, follow these steps. If not, skip to step 16.
11. Locate the hose attached to
the blow off valve (BOV).
12. Cut through the BOV hose
approximately 1” after the bend
with a hose cutter or sharp
13. Locate the brass T on the end
of the long hose supplied in the
kit and insert the barbed ends
into the ends of the cut BOV
14. Use the 2 large hose clamps to secure both ends of the BOV hose to
the brass T. Snap the clamps together and use pliers to tighten.
15. Attach the hose as shown in
the picture using the included
zip ties. Pull extra hose into
16. If you removed the intercooler, reinstall it now by following the steps
in reverse order.
17. In the passenger’s
compartment, route the main
harness and boost hose (if
applicable) as shown. Fasten
using the trim screw and cable
18. Run the main harness and boost hose (if applicable) into the center
dash area where the stereo is installed. The boost line continues up to
the left of the center vents and the main harness continues up to the
right of the vents.
19. Locate the unused plug on the
stereo wiring harness. It may
be taped in place. Plug the 2
spade connectors of the
illumination harness into the
female connectors of the
unused plug. It does not matter
which spade connector goes
20. Run the illumination harness
parallel to the main harness to
the right of the center vents. At
this point the ends of the main
harness, illumination harness,
and boost line (if applicable) will
be accessible where the clock
21. Locate the plug that went to
the clock. Peel back 1-2” of
tape from the wires going into
22. Install the red T-Tap on the
yellow wire with the green
stripe. Position the wire in the
slot, fold the T-Tap together,
and lock using pliers.
23. Attach the adhesive-backed
mounting base to the top of the
vent duct as shown.
24. Plug the yellow wire with the
green stripe on the main
harness into the T-tap. Secure
the assembly to the mounting
base with a zip tie.
25. Reinstall the stereo, making
sure to connect the modular
plug, antenna, and ground.
Attach the ground wire from the
gauge harness as shown.
26. Reinstall the vents by attaching the hazard switch plug and snapping
them into position.
27. Reinstall the cup holder.
28. Reinstall the stereo surround by aligning the clips and pressing them
29. Install the mounting clips for the gauge pod. The silver clips go in the
rear holes and the black clips go in the front slots.
30. Position the gauge chassis over the dash. Connect the boost line (if
applicable) to the barbed fitting on the back of the gauge. Secure with
the small hose clamp.
31. Connect the illumination, power, and sender plugs. The plugs are all
unique so they cannot be connected incorrectly.
32. Position the gauge pod chassis in the dash opening and secure it to
the dash with the mounting screws.
33. Test fit the gauge pod cover.
It should snap into place with
the faceplate flush and even
against the back of the cover
opening and the gauges tight
against their cutouts. If
everything looks good, you are
done. If not, proceed to step
34. The faceplate can be adjusted front and back by loosening the 4
screws that hold the faceplate to the gauge pod chassis and sliding the
faceplate. The height of the chassis as it sits in the dash opening can
be adjusted by slightly bending the mounting tabs on the side of the
chassis. Since every dash is a little different, you may have to make a
couple adjustments for satisfactory fit.
35. Double-check all connections to make sure they are secure. Secure
any wires or hoses with the provided zip ties to prevent them from
contacting moving parts or interfering with the driver or controls.
36. Reconnect the ground cable at the battery.
IMPORTANT: When you start your vehicle for the first time, make a careful
inspection of all hoses and fittings. Oil leaking onto a hot turbo or exhaust can
cause fires. If you discover any leaks, immediately shut off the engine and
Congratulations. Your gauges are now installed. If your electronic gauges fail to
function, always check the fuse first. A spare fuse is included in the kit. Make
note of where your gauges indicate during normal driving. This will give you a
good baseline to know when something is wrong.
Typical gauge readings:
Oil Pressure (Hot): 25-30 PSI Idle, 80-90 PSI max
Oil Pressure (Cold): 100 PSI or more
Oil Temperature (Hot): 180-210 normal operating range*
* Measured with the sandwich adaptor; oil plug adaptor will read lower.
This document is available online at http://www.wrxtra.com in the Documentation