This document provides an overview of Bertrand Walle's experience and expertise in the beauty industry. He has over 35 years of experience, including 12 years as a senior executive at L'Oreal Canada. He also has experience managing efficacy testing of cosmetic products and ingredients in North America. He provides consulting services to suppliers, manufacturers and retailers in the cosmetics industry regarding economic development between Europe and Canada.
3. Over 35 years of international experience in the
beauty & food industry.
Senior executive for L’Oreal Canada for 12 years.
General Manager of Spincontrol North America
( efficacy testing of cosmetic products and ingredients ).
Consulting experience for suppliers, manufacturers
and retailers the cosmetic industry.
Economic development expertise between Europe
and Canada.
Long standing member of CCTFA, CHFA and SCC.
TFO Canada associate for the past 10 years.
bertrand.walle@tfocanada.ca 1.514.630.3838
4. Essential oils
Pure oils
Natural extracts
Natural coloring agents
6. 34.4 million people.
68% concentrated in 6 major cities ( more than 1 million people ).
$8.4 billion beauty care spending at retail.
$244.00 spending per capita in beauty care.
$800 million revenues generated.
Source: 2010 statistics from Cosmetic Magazine / Statistics Canada / CCTFA
7. Sales
Skin Care (25.4%)
Hair Care (19.3%)
Make up (18%)
Oral Care (11.2%)
Fragrances (9%)
Other (17.1%)
Source : Coty Trends Report 2011
8. Aromatherapy
Spas
Beauty salons
Health food stores
Internet
Direct marketing
Gift
Large volume stores
Duty free
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15. 25% to 30% average COGs (cosmetic product )
Packaging (40%)
Manufacturing (25%)
Ingredients (20%)
Indirect Cost (15%)
16. Market size for ingredients for
cosmetics is approximately $400 million.
Comprises of 2 specific categories:
* commodity market ( fillers, surfactants,
etc );
* value added ( active ingredients,
both synthetic & natural oils,
extracts, pigments, etc ).
17. According to US research based on 82,000
ingredients used in the cosmetic industry, one in
eight is an industrial chemical substance which
may cause a health concern.
This concern fuels the continuing trend of utilizing
natural ingredients whenever possible in the
manufacturing of cosmetic products.
This in addition to consumer trends towards
“safe” products/ ingredients.
Source: David Suzuki Foundation May 2012
18. Estimated at $120 million for cosmetics.
80
70
60
Millions ($)
50
40
30
20
10
0
Essential and Natural Coloring
pure oils Extracts Agents
Source: Unofficial industry estimates 2012
19. Approximately $33 million of natural ingredients.
Represents locally produced ingredients such as
pine oil, hemp seed oil, sub-arctic seaweed,
labrador tea, cranberry, plankton, fish extracts, etc.
Source: Statistics Canada
24. There is a confusion of terms used by companies
and understood by consumers to express that
a product or ingredient is “natural”.
Green
Organic
Natural
Not synonymous when used in communications.
Chemical
Combination
25. There is a general assumption amongst consumers that
“natural” products are better or healthier than similar
ones using synthetic ingredients.
Often these “natural” ingredients are no different in
chemical composition than their synthetic
counterparts.
In fact, a synthetic substance which mimics a natural
one can sometimes provide a purer, more stable
ingredient which gives the product a longer usable life.
Health Canada considers both natural and synthetic
ingredients to be equally suitable for use in cosmetics.
26. Marketed in Canada as:
* the essential oil itself;
* as an ingredient in the production of a product.
Most popular essential oils in Canada:
Pine, lemon, orange, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree,
jojoba, grapefruit)
Main origin of imported essential oils:
* Europe (rosemary, thyme, lemon, lemon grass, lavender, camomile,
bergamot)
* USA (aloe vera, jojoba, grapefruit, orange)
* Asia…primarily India (patchouli, palmarosa, cinnamon cassia, clove)
* Africa (geranium, ylang ylang)
* Australia (tea tree)
* South America…primarily Brazil (rosewood, cardamom, eucalyptus )
27. Marketed in Canada primarily as an ingredient
Also marketed as a pure oil for products used
in massages.
Main origin of imported pure oils:
* Europe (olive, seabuckthorn, mink, grapeseed, apricot, hazel nut)
* USA (almond, jojoba seed, lecithin, pumpkin seed, safflower,
soyabean)
* Asia (evening primrose, palm, coconut, chaulmoogra, rice bran
* Africa (olive, cocoa, argan, karite, shea, avacado, macadamia)
* South America (coconut, jojoba, rosehip, passionflower)
28. Marketing in Canada as an ingredient.
Also marketed as an active ingredient
primarily for skin care.
Comes from all over the world:
* Botanical
* Floral
* Fruits
* Vegetables
* Minerals
* Sea
29. Marketed in Canada as an ingredient.
Most natural coloring agents are bought through
well-established producers (Lessonia. Naturex,
Diana, DDW; the color House (USA), etc).
Overall caution to use natural coloring agents
by the industry due to their instability and inconsistency.
Niche application for natural colored cosmetics ( Nacara,
100% Pure ( fruit pigmented color cosmetics , etc).
30. ENVIRONMENT
• Commitment to sustainability from:
* government ( policies & regulations )
* industry ( marketing edge )
* consumers ( wellness )
31. CONSUMER
• Organic/ natural/ green
• More educated purchasers
• Baby-Boomers seeking healthier alternatives
• Youth market consciousness of “natural”
• Men’s expanding cosmetic interest especially in
“natural” products
• Ethnic diversity & consumer interest
33. Universal recognition of all natural ingredients
for the cosmetic industry.
Estimated Canadian growth at 20% per year.
Market predicted to be 2-3 times larger by 2016
$240 million to $360 million business by 2016
34. Some are mandatory…some are
optional.
Some need to be done once… some
need to be done continuously
depending on volume.
Some need to be registered by the
exporter…some by the importer.
35. INCI ( International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients )
NSN ( New Substance Notification )
DSL ( Domestic Substance List )
NDSL ( Non-Domestic Substance List )
ICL ( In –Commerce List )
EAR (Environmental Assessment Regulations )
Consumer and Packaging Labelling Act
Custom Tariffs Act
36. INCI ( International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingedients )
A system of designating names for waxes, oils,
pigments, chemicals and other ingredients of soaps,
cosmetics and other products based on scientific
names.
To be accepted in Canada, an ingredient must have an
INCI name based on their chemical structure and
composition.
The name can only be assigned by the INCI Committee
Applications are handled for a fee.
37. Brought into line with international standards.
Will contribute to health protection.
Lessen trade barriers.
Increase trade opportunities.
Ingredients clearly visible to consumers.
In an obvious location.
Can not be placed on the underside/bottom of a container.
Regulation information takes precedence over voluntary
information.
Enables Canadian consumers to make more informed decisions.
Easier to identify ingredients to which consumers may have
sensitivities.
Enables physicians to refer to one common name for the purpose
of treatment and incidence reporting.
International recognition of INCI for travellers.
38. NSN ( New Substance Notification Regulations )
Amount of information required is directly related to the amount
of unlisted ingredients to be introduced into Canada.
Government evaluators then determine whether the substance
poses as an unreasonable risk to the environment and/or to
human health.
Subsequence notifications are required as the annual amount of
the imported or manufactures substance increases.
Once the highest level notification has been submitted, the
assessment period has expired and the government receives a
subsequent notice from the notifier, then the substance will be
eligible for addition to the DSL or the NDSL.
39. DSL ( Domestic Substance List )
US equivalent is the TSCA ( Toxic Substance Control Act ).
Regulates the introduction of new or previously registered
substances.
Present DSL has an inventory of approximately 23,000 substances.
Apply to substances in a quantity of 100kg or more in a calendar
year used for manufacturing purposes or manufactured in or
imported into Canada.
Under the Canadian Environment Protection Act a substance is
not permitted to be used or imported if it is toxic or capable of
becoming toxic ( on environment, biodiversity, human life and/or
human health )
40. NDSL ( Non-Domestic Substance List )
Published and maintained by Environment Canada.
Substances that are not on the DSL but are listed on the
NDSL are subject to lesser information requirements.
There exists more than 58,000 entries on the NDSL.
41. CAS ( Chemical Abstract Services )
A division of then American Chemical Society.
Possesses a authoritative collection of disclosed chemical
substance information.
Contains more than 67 million organic and inorganic substances.
Contains approximately 63 million sequences.
Provides a reliable link between various nomenclature terms used
to describe substances.
Serves as an international resource for substances used by
scientists, industry and regulatory bodies.
Data is current and updated daily.
CAS registry number is unique and specific to only one substance.
Registration applications for a fee are made directly with CAS.
42. ICL ( In-Commerce List )
Health Canada holds this list of approximately 9000 substances
found in pharmaceuticals, veterinary drugs, biologics and general
therapies, cosmetics, medical devices and food additives.
Current list has several deficiencies ( duplicate entries, missing
entries and ambiguous entries containing generic names, common
names and trade names ).
Nomination of substances is ongoing.
43. EAR ( Environmental Assessment Regulations )
Will require cosmetic companies and distributors to seek approval
from the Environmental Assessment Unit of Health Canada before
new ingredients can be used in products, including cosmetics,
regulated under the Food and Drug Act.
New ingredients will be those defined as not being present on the
DSL, NDSL or ICL.
Until such time as the EAR takes effect, importers and domestic
manufacturers of new ingredients in Food and Drug-regulated
products, including cosmetics are required to comply with the
pre-imported/pre-manufacture approval requirements of the
New Substance Notification ( NSN ) regulations of the
Environmental Protection Act.
44. Crucial that notifiers determine whether a substance to be
imported into or manufactured in Canada is listed on the
DSL or the NDSL.
If a product or an ingredient appears on a “hot list” it will
not be granted entry into Canada by Health Canada who
has access to ingredient registeries ( INCI, DSL, NDSL CAS
and eventually ICL )
Health Canada takes a risk-based approach with regards to
regulating cosmetic products and ingredients (considers
adverse health effects plus exposure levels in addition to the
cumulative exposure ).
Canadian government is currently developing EAR
(Environmental Assessment Regulations ).
45. Must contain the following information:
Nature of the product, contents and manufacturer.
Label is to be conspicuous
Lettering designed according to prescribed minimum
size letters and numerals.
In English and in French.
Name & head office address of importer
Name or description of the contents.
INCI list of ingredients.
Color, style name and number
Product of…( country name )
UPC/ PLC (and other bar codes as required
by retailer)
46. GENERAL
Labels on imports must conform to Canadian
standards.
Exporters should consult with and have the buyer
approve drafts of labels prior to printing.
If information is missing from label, entry will not
be permitted ( corrections are expensive ). Imports
bearing a description in a foreign language must
have a separate label in English and in French
which complies with labelling regulations.
Pictures and illustrations on the label must
correspond to the contents of the package.
47. Must contain the following information:
Nature of the product, contents and manufacturer.
Label is to be conspicuous
Lettering designed according to prescribed minimum size
letters and numerals.
In English and in French.
Name & head office address of importer
Name or description of the contents.
INCI list of ingredients.
Color, style name and number
Product of…( country name )
UPC/ PLC ( and other bar codes as required by retailer )
48. Trade Facilitating Office of Canada (TFO) www.tfocanada.ca
Canada Border Services Agency www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca
Canadian Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CCTFA)
www.cctfa.ca
Health Canada www.hc-sc.gc.ca
Canadian Association of Importers and Exporters (I.E. Canada)
www.ieCanada.com
Industry Canada www.strategis.ic.gc.ca
Scented Products Education and Information Association of Canada
www.scentedproducts.ca
Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) www.inspection.gc.ca
49. Allied Beauty Association Show (ABA)
www.abacanada.com
Canadian Health Food Association (CHFA)
www.chfa.ca
Esthetique Spa International
www.spa-show.com
51. ORGANIC
NPA ( Natural Products Association )
NSF (
NaTrue
Ecocert
NOP ( National Organic Program )
USDA ( United States Department of Agriculture )
FAIR TRADE
53. Wholesaler
* imports from producer
* sells primarily to distributors
Distributor
* imports from producer or buys from wholesaler
* sells to other distributors, custom formulators or
manufacturers
Custom Formulator
*utilized for production
Manufacturer
* utilizes for production
54. Custom formulator & manufacturer options:
* Small distributors that carry specialized ingredients;
* Small distributors that carry base ingredients;
* Large distributors that carry hundreds of
ingredients;
* Large chemical companies
providing base concentrates
made of natural ingredients
and only require finishing enhancement.
55. Europe
* Established producers & distributors
USA
* Established producers & distributors
Asia
* Uniqueness of product and price
Africa
* Uniqueness of product
South America
* Uniqueness of Amazon products
57. Distributors average markup of 30%
( 15% to 50% )
5% to 15% Discounts
( large volume/ volume rebates )
For specific pricing of essential oils and pure
oils refer to www.newdirectionsaromatics.ca
58. Costs
* Acceptable rates from Colombia to Canada
* High internal costs in Colombia
* Moderate optional costs in Canada
Options to Canada & in Canada
* Boat or Air from Colombia
* Rail or Truck in Canada
59. All imports must be packaged in a container that:
Prevents the product from becoming infested or from
spreading a pest.
While awaiting shipment, dunnage, pallets, crating or
other packaging materials must be stored in a fashion
that will prevent infestation.
60. Must contain the following information:
Brand name
Product number
Net amount in container ( weight, measure or number )
Expiry date
Name & address of the importer
UPC/PLU or other bar code identical to the one on the
individual products.
Lot number
61. INCI name….mandatory
Find a buyer
Assign a coordinator
Response times
Lead times
Price assurance
Samples
Quality assurance
Certification for organic & fair trade claims
Availability
Packaging
Website
Tradeshows
62. Essential Oils & Pure Oils
Essential oils presently in high
demand: pine oil, lemon, orange,
lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree,
jojoba, grapefruit).
Pure oils presently in high demand: jojoba oil, almond sweet
virgin oil, coconut oil, seabuckthorn oil, palm oil, macadamia oil,
meadowform oil, camelia seed oil, argan oil, rosehip oil, evening
primrose, pomegranate oil, avocado oil, apricot oil, hemp seed oil,
black current seed oil, barage oil, neem oil and carrot oil.
63. Natural Extracts
High demand for unique, exotic extracts from
the Amazon which carries a mystic image.
Active ingredient claim(s) needs to be backed up by studies of
actual benefits.
64. Natural coloring agents
Stability
Consistency
High demand for “blue”
High demand for acceptable “red”
Specific opportunity: Some cosmetic products
require insoluble pigments that will not run when
they get wet (products such as eye liner, eye
shadow, blush, and lipstick).
65. A major opportunity for Colombia:
DURABLE DEVELOPMENT
A recent trend for Natural Ingredients used in Canada.
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION
Canadian Companies prefer to work companies that
protect the environment (botanical particularly) and
manage their Bio Diversity.