OpenPCR  Build Instructions
Getting Started with OpenPCRHere’s how it works:1. Set aside an afternoon. You’ll need about 5   hours to assemble OpenPCR...
Greetings,Welcome to OpenPCR! You may be a scientistworking to harness the language of life, a highschool student explorin...
Contents 2" Getting Started 4" What!s in the Box 5" Building the Heated Lid12" The Heated Lid - Part 216" The Heated Lid -...
Getting StartedThese instructions are designed to help youput together your OpenPCR from start to finish.You!ll start by as...
What!s in the Box       The      Heated       Lid              Laser Cut Case      Box #1                Box #2           ...
Building the Heated Lid  Find these parts:  Box #1 The Heated Lid  • Laser cut wood parts (5)  Bag “a”  • Long 16 mm black...
Snap together one of the Side pieces into the2   Top piece.    (The Sides are symmetrical, so don!t worry    about which w...
Pick up a small metal nut. Slide the nut into the“t” cross of the Side piece as shown. (Line upthe edges of the nut to be ...
123    8
1    2    39
45    10
1                                                2!    The hole shown must be on the RIGHT.                               ...
The Heated Lid - Part 2      Find these parts:      Box #1 The Heated Lid        • Small square lid plate        • Orange ...
Stick the heater in the middle of the plate                                                      2!       Check that the e...
1   Find the heater mounting plate"    Flip over the lid heater plate so the insulation is    sandwiched between the heate...
Repeat for the other 3 screws        3Set this aside for now.                                15
The Heated Lid - Part 3  Find these parts:  Box #1 The Heated Lid    • Heated lid bracket    • Black plastic knob  Bag “a”...
Screw the latch to the lid bracket using 2 shortphilips head screws                                 1                     ...
3   Screw the hinge to the back of the heated lid    bracket with 2 black philips head screws4                            ...
1    Find the small 2 mm black Allen wrench. Screw    the shoulder bolt on to hold the plates together.   2!      With the...
3   Repeat with the other 3 shoulder bolts                                             20
There are 4 wires coming out of the lid heater.2 are labeled “NTC”. 2 are labeled “Power”.           1These labels are ver...
Carefully slide the “NTC” label back on to these4       2 wires.5       Repeat Steps 1, 2, and 3 for the 2 “Power”        ...
Attach the lid casing to the lid assembly using4 black screws (8 mm), as shown.                   1                       ...
2   Find the heated lid handle3   Screw the handle into the top of the lid. When    you turn the knob, the heated plate in...
The Core  Find these parts:  Box #6 The Heat Sink    • Heat sink and Fan    • Small screws (8)    • Metal arms (2 left, 2 ...
Remove the sticker on the top of the heat sink3   that reads “Please peel off label...”.    Use 2 aluminum screws to mount...
Not this hole                               This holeRepeat for the other 3 arms. Leave the screwsa little loose, so the a...
The Core - Part 2  Find these parts:  Box #3 The Core     • Aluminum mounting plate     • Square aluminum adapter plate   ...
Align the mounting plate as shown. There are 4holes highlighted in blue. The closely spacedholes are “front”. The 2 highli...
Using a big 5 mm diameter screw and a 10 mm2   black plastic washer, screw the mounting plate    to the heat sink. Make su...
Repeat with the 3 other screws.                                       3                                  31
Find the square aluminum adapter plate.1   Take 1 grey thermal pad from bag “d”. Make    sure that the thermal pad doesn!t...
Find the 16-tube PCR block. The blocktemperature sensor wire coming out of theblock is extremely fragile, it!s almost hair...
Squirt a small amount of grey thermal paste1   from the purple tube. Get it in the 4 cracks    between the copper and alum...
Stack the aluminum plate, peltier, and block  with all thermal pads facing DOWN. Red peliter  wire must face RIGHT as show...
Using the tiny screws, mount the heat block to3   the mounting plate. Don!t tighten too much,    we!ll tighten more later....
Check all the edges are aligned and no onepart sticks out. Tighten the little screws andheat sink arm screws. Do not over ...
The Face      Find these parts:      Box #2 Laser cut case        • Top of OpenPCR laser cut case      Box #3 - Bag “e”   ...
The LCD pins must be on the same side as the    highlighted hole (blue)!    Repeat for the other 3 screw holes            ...
3   Plug in the LCD cable to the OpenPCR LCD.    Make sure the BLUE wire on the LCD cable    matches with pin #1 on the LC...
The Face - Part 2  Find these parts:  Box #3 The Core    • Latch mounting block    • Hinge mounting block  Bag “b”    • Ph...
Repeat with the other 3 screws and spacers.3    Find the latch block and latch. Using 2 philips1   head screws, screw the ...
With the hinge block and 2 philips headscrews, attach the heated lid.                     2Route the 4 lid wires and black...
The rubber tube should look like this, with the4   wires going through it.                                                ...
The Body  Find these parts:  Box #2 - The Laser Cut Case    • Right side (lots of holes/ports)    • Front    • Back (lots ...
1   Take the paper off of all the laser cut parts.    Peel off a rubber foot and attach it to the    Bottom case. There ar...
Flip over the Bottom case so the rubber feetare facing away from you. Use 3 black plastic      3screws to attach the circu...
Repeat for the 3 screw-holes shown.4    Use the last black plastic screw and the longer5   5/8” plastic spacer for the las...
49
Slide in the Side with holes and screw it down.1   It will take a bit of wiggling to get past the USB    port on the Ardui...
Slide in the Front piece and screw it in.                                                      3Some tricky steps are comi...
The Body - Part 2        Find these parts:        Box #3 - Bag “f”          • Philips head short plastic screws (4)       ...
Using the 4 short plastic philips head screws,attach the OpenPCR Power Supply onto theside of the case. You!ll need to lif...
Use 2 screws and 2 nuts to attach the other3   panel. Pay attention to the “up” and “down”    labels on the panel.        ...
Connecting All the WiresTools: Tiny 2 mm flathead screwdriver, blueallen wrenchFind the fan cable (red, white, black)connec...
Connect the Fan cable to the Fan port on the2   OpenPCR Brains board. (Move the Top    assembly close to the Case assembly...
wire in place and tighten the screw. Tug oneach wire to make sure it is connected!Connect the wires for the Lid Heater to ...
Connect the OpenPCR Power Supply to the5   OpenPCR Brains board.    Pull the LCD wire under the Power Supply6   wires as s...
There!s one wire remaining, which connects tothe the block temperature sensor. Leave itdisconnected for now. Keep it away ...
Make sure the Power supply cable does notblock the power supply fan                                            60
Routing the wires  Find these parts:  Box #2 - Laser cut case    • Left side  Box #3- Bag “e”    • 16 mm black screws (10)...
Put the fan wire (red, black, white) under the 22   clips shown.    Add the 4 orange lid wires + red and black3   peltier ...
Clip the 4 tan lid heater wires + red and blackpeltier heater wires to the clip on the fan.           4Plug in the LCD cab...
Push some of the LCD ribbon around the back1   of the OpenPCR power supply as shown    Make a loop in the LCD wire. Push i...
Plug in the lid temperature sensor wire.                                                3Wrap the lid temperature sensor o...
Add one more loop to the clips.5                                      66
Beautiful -- Like a PicassoIf the Power Supply wires are blocking thepower supply fan, make sure to push them outof the wa...
Put on the final side. Lock it in place with 47   screws and nuts.     Congrats, OpenPCR is done!                          ...
Power Test  Find these:  • Black power supply cable  • USB cable  • Your Mac or PC  No software is needed for this stepFin...
Starting Up OpenPCR1   Connect OpenPCR to a wall    outlet2   Plug in OpenPCR to your    computer!s USB port3   Switch on ...
Pre-Flight Checklist    Send a pic of OpenPCR +    me to: hello@openpcr.org    Lid Heated up    Block reached 95˚C    Duri...
Maintaining OpenPCRHere!s some tips:• OpenPCR is a sensitive electronics  instrument. Keep all liquids away from  OpenPCR....
Many thanks to everyone who helped OpenPCRhappen!And to the San Francisco Muni for inspiring thecolor scheme of these inst...
OpenPCRSan Francisco, California
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OpenPCR Build Instructions

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Instructions for putting together your OpenPCR kit. More info at http://openpcr.org

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OpenPCR Build Instructions

  1. 1. OpenPCR Build Instructions
  2. 2. Getting Started with OpenPCRHere’s how it works:1. Set aside an afternoon. You’ll need about 5 hours to assemble OpenPCR, plus time for breaks2. Clean off a large table for your workspace3. Get some snacks and dig in!Questions? Give us a call: 650-549-5653 or go toopenpcr.org/support
  3. 3. Greetings,Welcome to OpenPCR! You may be a scientistworking to harness the language of life, a highschool student exploring biotech for the firsttime, or a hobbyist looking at the world in anew light. Either way, you!ve made the rightchoice. Biotechnology is an exciting newfrontier!Best,Tito Jankowski and Josh PerfettoFounders, OpenPCRSan Francisco, California On the Cover A section of artist Dale Chihuly!s “Saffron Tower”. This massive 30 foot tall glass sculpture appeared briefly at the Pool of Enchantment besides the De Young Museum in San Francisco. Printed here at high resolution to display in your home or lab. Photography by artist Dianne Que http://hurleysashimi.com San Francisco, California More info online: openpcr.org/cover 1
  4. 4. Contents 2" Getting Started 4" What!s in the Box 5" Building the Heated Lid12" The Heated Lid - Part 216" The Heated Lid - Part 325" The Core28" The Core - Part 238" The Face41" The Face - Part 245" The Body52" The Body - Part 255" Connecting All the Wires61" Routing the Wires69" Starting Up OpenPCR71" Pre-Flight Checklist72" Maintaining Your OpenPCR 2
  5. 5. Getting StartedThese instructions are designed to help youput together your OpenPCR from start to finish.You!ll start by assembling OpenPCR!s heatedlid and move on from there.Your OpenPCR is designed to take about 5hours to put together, plus time for breaks.Take breaks when you feel like it -- OpenPCRwill be waiting happily when you get back!Tools you will need• Philips-head screwdriver• Flathead screwdriver• 2 mm flathead screwdriver• Pliers• 2.5 mm hex wrench (blue, included)• 2.0 mm hex wrench (included)• 3/32” hex wrench (included)Nice to have• Needle nose pliers for holding plastic spacers in place ! When you see this red sign next to a step, take extra care! These tips are to help avoid pitfalls while putting together OpenPCR. 3
  6. 6. What!s in the Box The Heated Lid Laser Cut Case Box #1 Box #2 The The Brains Core Power cord Box #3 Box #4 Heat Power USB Sink Supply cord Box #6 Box #5 4
  7. 7. Building the Heated Lid Find these parts: Box #1 The Heated Lid • Laser cut wood parts (5) Bag “a” • Long 16 mm black metal screws (7) • Metal nuts (7) • Blue allen wrenchLet!s get started! Pe"el off the backing paper onall 5 wooden parts. 1 5
  8. 8. Snap together one of the Side pieces into the2 Top piece. (The Sides are symmetrical, so don!t worry about which way they!re facing)3 6
  9. 9. Pick up a small metal nut. Slide the nut into the“t” cross of the Side piece as shown. (Line upthe edges of the nut to be parallel with the 4cross.)Put a metal screw through the hole as shown.Tighten it using your fingers at first. Finish it offwith your blue Allen wrench. 5 7
  10. 10. 123 8
  11. 11. 1 2 39
  12. 12. 45 10
  13. 13. 1 2! The hole shown must be on the RIGHT. 11
  14. 14. The Heated Lid - Part 2 Find these parts: Box #1 The Heated Lid • Small square lid plate • Orange lid heater • Heated lid mounting plate Bag “a” • White insulation padding • 1/8” white plastic spacers (4) • Flat white plastic washers (4) • Black metal 8 mm screws (4) Find the orange lid heater and small square lid1 plate. Remove the adhesive backing on the orange lid heater. 12
  15. 15. Stick the heater in the middle of the plate 2! Check that the edges of the orange heater do not hang off the edge of the plate, cover up any of the 4 holes, or have any air bubbles underneath. The heater could break during PCR if part of it doesn!t make contact with the aluminum plate.Remove the adhesive backing on the whiteinsulation. Stick it on top of the lid heater. 3 13
  16. 16. 1 Find the heater mounting plate" Flip over the lid heater plate so the insulation is sandwiched between the heater and mounting bracket. With the blue allen wrench, screw together the2 two plates. Use a plastic washer, 1/8” plastic spacer, and 8 mm black screw as shown. 14
  17. 17. Repeat for the other 3 screws 3Set this aside for now. 15
  18. 18. The Heated Lid - Part 3 Find these parts: Box #1 The Heated Lid • Heated lid bracket • Black plastic knob Bag “a” • Black metal 8 mm screws (4) • Shoulder bolts (4) • Springs (4) Bag “b” • Metal latch (2 parts) • Black plastic hinge • Short black philips head screws for hinge • Short philips head screws for latch • Short metal bolt • 1” black tube 16
  19. 19. Screw the latch to the lid bracket using 2 shortphilips head screws 1 2 17
  20. 20. 3 Screw the hinge to the back of the heated lid bracket with 2 black philips head screws4 18
  21. 21. 1 Find the small 2 mm black Allen wrench. Screw the shoulder bolt on to hold the plates together. 2! With the latch facing towards you, the heater wires must point out to the RIGHT, as shown. 19
  22. 22. 3 Repeat with the other 3 shoulder bolts 20
  23. 23. There are 4 wires coming out of the lid heater.2 are labeled “NTC”. 2 are labeled “Power”. 1These labels are very important. If they getmixed up, the heated lid may break the firsttime it is plugged in.Pick up the 2 “NTC” wires, and carefully slidethe label off (you will slide the label back on inthe next step. Leave the “Power” wires alone).Pass the 2 wires through the hole in the woodlid case as shown. 2Pass the ends of the 2 wires through the 1”piece of black tube. 3 21
  24. 24. Carefully slide the “NTC” label back on to these4 2 wires.5 Repeat Steps 1, 2, and 3 for the 2 “Power” wires. ! If the “NTC” wires get mixed up with the “Power” wires, the heated lid may break the first time it is plugged in. If the wires get mixed up, undo the past several steps and remove the insulation on the lid heater. Use this diagram of the lid heater to fix the labels. 22
  25. 25. Attach the lid casing to the lid assembly using4 black screws (8 mm), as shown. 1 23
  26. 26. 2 Find the heated lid handle3 Screw the handle into the top of the lid. When you turn the knob, the heated plate inside the lid will move. A few turns are all you need. 24
  27. 27. The Core Find these parts: Box #6 The Heat Sink • Heat sink and Fan • Small screws (8) • Metal arms (2 left, 2 right)The 4 heat sink arms have plastic clips. Theseclips need to be removed for OpenPCR. 1Find your pliers and break off 2 of the blackplastic tabs. Avoid bending the metal arm. 2 25
  28. 28. Remove the sticker on the top of the heat sink3 that reads “Please peel off label...”. Use 2 aluminum screws to mount the arms4 onto the heat sink. Make sure the all arms angle DOWN, as shown. 26
  29. 29. Not this hole This holeRepeat for the other 3 arms. Leave the screwsa little loose, so the arms can wiggle a little bit.You!ll tighten these in a few steps. 5 27
  30. 30. The Core - Part 2 Find these parts: Box #3 The Core • Aluminum mounting plate • Square aluminum adapter plate • Ceramic Peltier heater • 16-well PCR block (Fragile, watch out for the temperature sensor wire poking out) Bag “c” • Metal short screws, 5 mm diameter (4) • Black plastic spacers, 10 mm diameter (4) • Small button head screws (4) • Plastic washers (4) • Insulation strips (4) Bag “d” • Grey thermal pad (3) Purple thermal paste tube (Heat Sink box) 28
  31. 31. Align the mounting plate as shown. There are 4holes highlighted in blue. The closely spacedholes are “front”. The 2 highlighted holes 1further apart are “back”, on the same side asthe fan. Back Front 29
  32. 32. Using a big 5 mm diameter screw and a 10 mm2 black plastic washer, screw the mounting plate to the heat sink. Make sure these screws go in straight. If not, loosen the arm brackets on the heat sink and wiggle the mounting plate. 30
  33. 33. Repeat with the 3 other screws. 3 31
  34. 34. Find the square aluminum adapter plate.1 Take 1 grey thermal pad from bag “d”. Make sure that the thermal pad doesn!t rub or touch against anything else. Remove the adhesive backing on the thermal pad. Stick the pad to the aluminum adapter plate. The pad is fragile, so line up the pad before you stick it on. Make sure none of the thermal pad hangs over the edge of the plate; this will slow the heating and cooling performance of OpenPCR. Set this aside carefully. Find the Peltier heater and another thermal2 pad. With the red wires facing the LEFT side as shown, stick on another thermal pad. Set this aside carefully. 32
  35. 35. Find the 16-tube PCR block. The blocktemperature sensor wire coming out of theblock is extremely fragile, it!s almost hair thin. 3Leave it taped to the block for now.Attach a thermal pad to the underside. Makesure the pad doesn!t hang over the edge of theblock. Set this aside carefully. 33
  36. 36. Squirt a small amount of grey thermal paste1 from the purple tube. Get it in the 4 cracks between the copper and aluminum parts of the heat sink, but don!t cover the whole surface. 34
  37. 37. Stack the aluminum plate, peltier, and block with all thermal pads facing DOWN. Red peliter wire must face RIGHT as shown! 2Temperaturesensor wire Order of parts 1. 16-tube PCR block 2. Thermal pad 3. Peltier heater 4. Thermal pad 5. Adapter plate 6. Thermal pad 7. Heat sink 35
  38. 38. Using the tiny screws, mount the heat block to3 the mounting plate. Don!t tighten too much, we!ll tighten more later. (If for some reason you later disassemble OpenPCR after thermal cycling, do not take this apart or the thermal pads will need to be replaced) Repeat with the other 3 screws.4 36
  39. 39. Check all the edges are aligned and no onepart sticks out. Tighten the little screws andheat sink arm screws. Do not over tighten the 5screws if the PCR block arms start to bend.Check the arms don!t touch the mounting plate.Find the 4 pieces of white insulation. Thenotched piece is for the block temperaturesensor wire. Remove the backing from the 6white insulation strips and stick them to thesides of the block. 37
  40. 40. The Face Find these parts: Box #2 Laser cut case • Top of OpenPCR laser cut case Box #3 - Bag “e” • 16 mm long black screws (4) • Metal nuts (4) • 1/8” plastic spacers (4) Box #4 • OpenPCR LCD screen • LCD ribbon cable Remove the paper from the backside of the1 Top. Using one of the screws and spacers, attach the LCD to the lid. Note the direction of the pins in the diagram below! 38
  41. 41. The LCD pins must be on the same side as the highlighted hole (blue)! Repeat for the other 3 screw holes 2 39
  42. 42. 3 Plug in the LCD cable to the OpenPCR LCD. Make sure the BLUE wire on the LCD cable matches with pin #1 on the LCD. 40
  43. 43. The Face - Part 2 Find these parts: Box #3 The Core • Latch mounting block • Hinge mounting block Bag “b” • Philips head screws for latch (2) • Philips head screws for hinge (2) Bag “e” • 20 mm really long black screws (4) • 5/8” black plastic spacers (4)Un-tape the block temperature sensor from theblock. This is fragile, make sure not to break it! 1Use a 20 mm black screw and long plasticspacer to mount the Top piece and Coretogether. Note the alignment of the heat sink 2fan in the drawings. 41
  44. 44. Repeat with the other 3 screws and spacers.3 Find the latch block and latch. Using 2 philips1 head screws, screw the latch onto the mounting plate. 42
  45. 45. With the hinge block and 2 philips headscrews, attach the heated lid. 2Route the 4 lid wires and black tubing into theround hole in the Top wood case. The labels 3should slide through. If the labels don!t slidethrough, take one off, put the wires through,and re-attach the label. Be sure not to mix upthe “NTC” and “Power” wires. 43
  46. 46. The rubber tube should look like this, with the4 wires going through it. 44
  47. 47. The Body Find these parts: Box #2 - The Laser Cut Case • Right side (lots of holes/ports) • Front • Back (lots of holes) • Bottom Bag “e” • 16 mm long black metal screws (4) • Metal nuts (4) Bag “f” • Long black plastic screws (4) • Black plastic nuts (4) • 1/8” plastic spacers (3) • 5/8” plastic spacer • Clear Rubber feet (4) Box #4 - The Brains • OpenPCR Brains board • Arduino UNO boardTools: Allen wrench, micro philips headscrewdriver, needle nose pliers (nice to have) 45
  48. 48. 1 Take the paper off of all the laser cut parts. Peel off a rubber foot and attach it to the Bottom case. There are black circles on the bottom plate to help place the feet. Connect the Arduino UNO (blue) and2 OpenPCR Brains board (green) as shown. Make sure not to bend any of the pins! 46
  49. 49. Flip over the Bottom case so the rubber feetare facing away from you. Use 3 black plastic 3screws to attach the circuit board assembly tothe case. Use a 1/8” plastic spacer in betweenthe Arduino and the case.You!ll add the nuts in a later step.If you have needle nose pliers, use them tohold the spacers in place while you put thescrews through. 47
  50. 50. Repeat for the 3 screw-holes shown.4 Use the last black plastic screw and the longer5 5/8” plastic spacer for the last mounting hole. 48
  51. 51. 49
  52. 52. Slide in the Side with holes and screw it down.1 It will take a bit of wiggling to get past the USB port on the Arduino Uno. It should go in easily. Lift up the circuit boards a little bit to help, but careful not to lose the spacers. Add the 4 black nuts to lock the Brains board in2 place. Add 2 screws and nuts to the side.. 50
  53. 53. Slide in the Front piece and screw it in. 3Some tricky steps are coming up next. Now is agreat time for a break! 51
  54. 54. The Body - Part 2 Find these parts: Box #3 - Bag “f” • Philips head short plastic screws (4) • Big plastic clip Box #5 - OpenPCR Power Supply Stick the big plastic clip to the power supply in1 the position shown. Clip the wires as shown. ! Set the red voltage switch for your country!s power system. In the USA, this is 115 V. Other countries may require that you switch to the 230 V setting. 52
  55. 55. Using the 4 short plastic philips head screws,attach the OpenPCR Power Supply onto theside of the case. You!ll need to lift the power 2supply up about 1 inch to get the screw-holeslined up. We recommend holding the PowerSupply in place with one hand. Use your otherhand to thread the screws. After you have all 4screws connected use your screwdriver totighten. 53
  56. 56. Use 2 screws and 2 nuts to attach the other3 panel. Pay attention to the “up” and “down” labels on the panel. 54
  57. 57. Connecting All the WiresTools: Tiny 2 mm flathead screwdriver, blueallen wrenchFind the fan cable (red, white, black)connected to the fan on the heat sink. Makesure the wires come out of the bottom right 1corner of the fan, as shown. If not, unclip thefan and rotate it so the wires are in the positionshown. 55
  58. 58. Connect the Fan cable to the Fan port on the2 OpenPCR Brains board. (Move the Top assembly close to the Case assembly so the wires will reach.) Connect the red and black Peltier heater wires3 as shown. Use your 2 mm screwdriver to loosen the terminals (righty tighty lefty loosey). Hold each 56
  59. 59. wire in place and tighten the screw. Tug oneach wire to make sure it is connected!Connect the wires for the Lid Heater to theOpenPCR board. All 4 wires connect to thegreen terminal. The order is very important! 4Use the labels to make sure the 4 wires areconnected correctly. If they!re not, the Lidheater may burn out the first time OpenPCR isconnected to power. 57
  60. 60. Connect the OpenPCR Power Supply to the5 OpenPCR Brains board. Pull the LCD wire under the Power Supply6 wires as shown. Leave it disconnected for now. 58
  61. 61. There!s one wire remaining, which connects tothe the block temperature sensor. Leave itdisconnected for now. Keep it away from therest of the wires to make sure it does not snagor break.Take the Core (Top + heat stack) that you builtearlier and slide it onto the top of the case.The power supply wires should not block the 7fan on the front of the power supply (This willdegrade the thermal performance ofOpenPCR). Squish the wires between the sideof the heat sink and case as you put on theTop. 59
  62. 62. Make sure the Power supply cable does notblock the power supply fan 60
  63. 63. Routing the wires Find these parts: Box #2 - Laser cut case • Left side Box #3- Bag “e” • 16 mm black screws (10) • Metal nuts (10)Stick the 5 plastic clips onto OpenPCR asshown. 1 61
  64. 64. Put the fan wire (red, black, white) under the 22 clips shown. Add the 4 orange lid wires + red and black3 peltier wires to those clips. 62
  65. 65. Clip the 4 tan lid heater wires + red and blackpeltier heater wires to the clip on the fan. 4Plug in the LCD cable. The blue cable must beplugged in to pin #1, on the RIGHT as shown. 5 63
  66. 66. Push some of the LCD ribbon around the back1 of the OpenPCR power supply as shown Make a loop in the LCD wire. Push it well2 underneath the OpenPCR Power supply. 64
  67. 67. Plug in the lid temperature sensor wire. 3Wrap the lid temperature sensor once aroundthe clips on the power supply. 4 65
  68. 68. Add one more loop to the clips.5 66
  69. 69. Beautiful -- Like a PicassoIf the Power Supply wires are blocking thepower supply fan, make sure to push them outof the way. The same applies to any otherwires that might block OpenPCR!s airflow.Add 6 screws + nuts to the screwholes aroundthe top of the case. 6 67
  70. 70. Put on the final side. Lock it in place with 47 screws and nuts. Congrats, OpenPCR is done! 68
  71. 71. Power Test Find these: • Black power supply cable • USB cable • Your Mac or PC No software is needed for this stepFind the black power supply cable, and plugOpenPCR into the wall. 1Find the USB cable, and plug OpenPCR intoyour computer. 2Flip OpenPCR!s power switch and you will begreeted with the “OpenPCR Powered Off”. 3If you do not see this message, unplugOpenPCR from USB and the wall outlet. Checkthat there are no loose wires. Visit openpcr.org/support for more help. 69
  72. 72. Starting Up OpenPCR1 Connect OpenPCR to a wall outlet2 Plug in OpenPCR to your computer!s USB port3 Switch on OpenPCR4 Visit openpcr.org/start and install the OpenPCR App to your Mac or PC.5 Read “Getting the best thermal cycling with OpenPCR” at openpcr.org/start. 70
  73. 73. Pre-Flight Checklist Send a pic of OpenPCR + me to: hello@openpcr.org Lid Heated up Block reached 95˚C During 30 seconds at 95˚C, OpenPCR ranged from ______ ˚C to _______ ˚C Block reached 10 ˚C after ______ seconds 71
  74. 74. Maintaining OpenPCRHere!s some tips:• OpenPCR is a sensitive electronics instrument. Keep all liquids away from OpenPCR. If liquids are spilled on OpenPCR, immediately unplug OpenPCR directly from the wall outlet.• Avoid dropping OpenPCR as this may damage the electronics and laser cut case• When transporting OpenPCR, make sure the heated lid is latched in place. Be sure to let OpenPCR return to room temperature before transporting.• When a friend or colleague borrows OpenPCR, be sure to let them know about these guidelines.DisclaimerWe are not responsible for damages, injuries,deaths, or other ill effects arising from proper orimproper use of or assembly of the OpenPCRcomponents. To the fullest extent permissibleby the applicable law, we hereby disclaim anyand all responsibility, risk, liability, anddamages arising out of death or personal injuryresulting from assembly of or operation of thiskit. 72
  75. 75. Many thanks to everyone who helped OpenPCRhappen!And to the San Francisco Muni for inspiring thecolor scheme of these instructions. J L NCHURCH TARAVAL JUDAH K M T INGLESIDE OCEAN VIEW THIRD ST
  76. 76. OpenPCRSan Francisco, California

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