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Costume Parade

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Costume Parade

  1. 1. Denton Community TheatrePresentsSecond Saturday Seminars<br />Costume Parade<br />The Art of Costuming &<br />An Overview of Vintage & Historic Dress<br />SarahAnn Sutter<br />November 2009<br />
  2. 2. Program<br />About Me<br />Ground Work<br />Research<br />Sourcing<br />Special Issues<br />Tips<br />Special Topic: Vintage Dress<br />
  3. 3. How I Got Started<br />Interest<br />Enthusiasm<br />Mentors<br />Luck<br />First Experience<br />“Annie Get Your Gun”<br />Thanks to DCT!<br />Betty Ann Barrow!<br />Summer 2002<br />About Me<br />
  4. 4. About Me<br />What do you need to be a costumer?<br />Creativity & imagination<br />A willingness to work hard<br />What don’t you need to be a costumer? <br />You don't need to be able to sew<br />You don't need to be able to draw<br />You don't need a design degree<br />
  5. 5. About Me: Shows<br />Assistant Costumed<br />DCT’s “Annie Get Your Gun” (2002)<br />UNT’s “Suor Angelica” (2003)<br />Costumed<br />DCT’s “Oklahoma” (2003)<br />UNT’s “Cendrillon” (2004)<br />UNT’s “The Marriage of Figaro” (2005)<br />DCT’s “Joseph…Dreamcoat” (2007)<br />MTD’s “I Love You…Now Change” (2008)<br />
  6. 6. About Me: Shows<br />DCT’s “Annie Get Your Gun”<br />
  7. 7. About Me: Shows<br />DCT’s “Oklahoma”<br />
  8. 8. About Me: Shows<br />UNT’s “Suor Angelica”<br />
  9. 9. About Me: Shows<br />UNT’s “Cendrillon”<br />
  10. 10. About Me: Shows<br />UNT’s “The Marriage of Figaro”<br />
  11. 11. About Me: Shows<br />DCT’s “Joseph…Dreamcoat”<br />
  12. 12. About Me: Shows<br />MTD’s “I Love You…Now Change”<br />
  13. 13. Ground Work<br />1st steps consist of:<br />Gathering information<br />Determining your work style<br />Talk with the director to determine:<br />Director's vision<br />Director's working style<br />Schedule <br />Budget<br />
  14. 14. Ground Work<br />The question of help:<br />Assistants<br />Sewers<br />Dressers<br />"Designing" versus "Coordinating" <br />What’s the difference?<br />Ideally, do both <br />
  15. 15. Ground Work<br />Costume Sheets<br />Actor/character names<br />Measurements<br />Taking Measurements <br />What’s needed<br />How-to <br />
  16. 16. Ground Work<br />Sample Costume Form<br />
  17. 17. Research is always needed <br />Especially for any ‘historic’ show<br />Even for ‘minimalist’ or unorthodox productions<br />2nd step of costuming process<br />Save your research:<br />Keep a notebook<br />Make a "Favorites" folder<br />Create a computer folder<br />Research<br />
  18. 18. Research: Costume History<br />1700 A.D. & Prior<br />Women’s Dress<br />Silhouettes changed about every 100 years<br />Big differences between upper & lower classes<br />Men’s Dress<br />Silhouettes changed about every 100 years<br />Big differences between upper & lower classes<br />Post 1700 A.D.<br />Women’s Dress<br />Silhouettes changed about every 10 years<br />Class differences in dress diminished<br />Men’s Dress<br />Silhouettes changed less frequently<br />Class differences in dress diminished<br />
  19. 19. Research: costume history<br />Changing silhouettes of the 20th Century<br />Women’s fashion underwent major changes every decade of the 20th century<br />Community Theatre Costuming Research Reminders:<br />Couture vs. common dress<br />Some characters are behind the times<br />Historical accuracy: don’t panic!<br />
  20. 20. Specific sources<br />Costuming books<br />The internet <br />Pattern companies <br />Halloween costumes  <br />Films & television<br />Paper dolls<br />Museums<br />Please refer to handouts<br />Research<br />
  21. 21. Sourcing<br />Process of actually procuring costumes<br />Hardest part <br />Designing’ vs. ‘coordinating’<br />Variety of sources for both approaches<br />Need to weight cost vs. ease vs. effectiveness<br />Sourcing<br />
  22. 22. Sourcing: Options<br />Making<br />Pros:<br /> Customized to needs and actors’ sizes<br />This is a BIG pro! <br />Cons:<br />Fabric often expensive <br />May take more work & time<br />Buying<br />Pros:<br />May be better long-term financial decision<br />Can often get exactly what’s needed<br />Cons:<br />Can be expensive<br />Consider shipping costs<br />Finding/Borrowing<br />Pro<br />Best option if costume stocks available<br />Free!<br />Cons<br />Borrowing presents risks <br />Your organization's stock may be limited<br />
  23. 23. Sourcing: Options<br />Refurbishing<br />Pros:<br />Great option (especially for costume stocks)<br />Low cost<br />Cons:<br />Can be a lot of work<br />May require sewing skills<br />Renting<br />Pros:<br />Many rental choices <br />Least labor intensive choice<br />No storage issues<br />Good for specialty items<br />Cons:<br />Often expensive<br />Items must be returned<br />
  24. 24. Sourcing: Specific Options<br />Denton Community Theatre's Costume Stock<br />Music Theatre of Denton's Costume Stock <br />Local schools <br />Universities <br />UNT's Drama Department<br />UNT Opera Theatre<br />TWU<br />Rose Costumes<br />Dallas Costume Shop<br />Denton Dance World<br />Vintage stores <br />Thrift stores<br />Garage and estate sales<br />The Asian Trade District (Harry Hines/Royal Lane)<br />
  25. 25. Sourcing: Specific Options<br />The internet<br />Dance supply companies<br />Historical clothing specialty site<br />Purveyors of ethnic clothing<br />eBay<br />Craig's List<br />Online costume rental companies<br />Specialty companies<br />Other theaters<br />Halloween costumes<br />Churches<br />Cast members<br />Other individuals<br />Your private stock<br />
  26. 26. Budgets<br />Movement Issues<br />Modesty/Comfort Issues<br />Colors<br />Shoes<br />Temperament<br />Alterations & Prohibitions<br />Dyeing & Painting<br />Hair<br />Makeup<br />Quick Changes<br />Borrowing from the Cast<br />The Costumer’s Speech<br />Special Issues<br />
  27. 27. Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Budgets
  28. 28. Compromising is key
  29. 29. Going over budget
  30. 30. Movement issues
  31. 31. Allow for movement
  32. 32. Musicals
  33. 33. Practice skirts
  34. 34. Modesty/comfort issues
  35. 35. Be sensitive to modesty concerns
  36. 36. Be sensitive to body image issues</li></li></ul><li>Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Colors
  37. 37. Color schemes
  38. 38. Science of color
  39. 39. Black & white
  40. 40. Shoes
  41. 41. Historical accuracy
  42. 42. Movement issues
  43. 43. Usually bought by cast
  44. 44. Men’s shoes sometimes trickier
  45. 45. Stockings – usually cast purchases</li></li></ul><li>Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Temperament
  46. 46. You
  47. 47. The actors
  48. 48. The creative staff (especially the director)
  49. 49. Practical requirements of a costume
  50. 50. Have nothing to do with aesthetics
  51. 51. Covers enough to be decent
  52. 52. Allow for movement required on stage
  53. 53. Lets actors get enough air to function
  54. 54. Doesn't physically hurt actors</li></li></ul><li>Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Hair
  55. 55. Do-it-yourself vs. specialists
  56. 56. Wigs
  57. 57. Coloring & cutting
  58. 58. Makeup
  59. 59. Usually do-it-yourself
  60. 60. Usually cast purchases
  61. 61. Special looks
  62. 62. Quick changes
  63. 63. Sometimes very challenging!
  64. 64. Determine requirements early
  65. 65. May require backstage dressers </li></li></ul><li>Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Alterations & Prohibitions
  66. 66. Avoid cutting
  67. 67. Be careful with fabric
  68. 68. Respect borrowed items
  69. 69. Use judgment about vintage clothes
  70. 70. Dyeing and Painting
  71. 71. Deceptively simple
  72. 72. Challenges of dyeing
  73. 73. Limitations of painting</li></li></ul><li>Special Issues<br /><ul><li>Borrowing from cast:
  74. 74. Free
  75. 75. Good for contemporary shows
  76. 76. You know costumes will fit & flatter actors
  77. 77. Actors share in create process
  78. 78. Risk of dirt & stains
  79. 79. Actors may see it as imposition
  80. 80. Beware of ‘too many cooks’</li></li></ul><li>Tips<br /><ul><li>The Costumer's Speech
  81. 81. Eating & drinking in costume
  82. 82. How to handle costume issues
  83. 83. Putting away costumes
  84. 84. Cleaning & repairing costumes
  85. 85. Any other ground rules
  86. 86. Responsibility definitions
  87. 87. Defining responsibility
  88. 88. Determine your own work expectations
  89. 89. Ironing, cleaning, repairing
  90. 90. When & how often
  91. 91. Determine cast’s work expectations
  92. 92. Can or should the cast clean/iron/repair costumes?
  93. 93. Communicate expectations to cast </li></li></ul><li>#1 Tip<br />Keep everything in perspective:<br />community theater should uplift you!<br />Tips<br />
  94. 94. Tips<br /><ul><li>The glue gun is your friend
  95. 95. Safety pins are your friend
  96. 96. Be careful with white
  97. 97. Free is good
  98. 98. Ask for help
  99. 99. Think out of the box
  100. 100. From Betty Ann Barrow: “you only need to sew theatrical costumes with black or white thread.” </li></li></ul><li>Tips<br /><ul><li>Bring your own sewing machine (if applicable)
  101. 101. Use the Work Day
  102. 102. Get stuff done early
  103. 103. Thrift stores & garage sales are great
  104. 104. Cut up cheap clothes for the fabric
  105. 105. Use bedclothes or curtains as fabric
  106. 106. Expect to be at strike
  107. 107. Make costume/character charts
  108. 108. Make lists/charts of each costume and its pieces. </li></li></ul><li>How I discovered Vintage<br />A love of clothes!<br />Family collections<br />Old Hollywood<br />‘Vintage’ vs. ‘Antique’<br />Disputed<br />‘New Vintage:’ 1950s-1980s<br />‘Old Vintage:’ 1900-1960s<br />‘Antique:’ Pre-1900 <br />Vintage Dress<br />
  109. 109. Vintage Dress<br /><ul><li>Finding Vintage
  110. 110. Family
  111. 111. Vintage stores
  112. 112. The internet
  113. 113. Garage/estate sales
  114. 114. Antique stores
  115. 115. Identifying Vintage
  116. 116. Style
  117. 117. Condition
  118. 118. Labels
  119. 119. Zippers
  120. 120. Homemade vintage</li></li></ul><li>Vintage Dress<br /><ul><li>Collecting Vintage
  121. 121. Specialize
  122. 122. Know your subject
  123. 123. Check condition
  124. 124. Don’t pay too much
  125. 125. Pay what it’s worth to you
  126. 126. Wearing Vintage
  127. 127. Sizing issues
  128. 128. Condition issues
  129. 129. Preservation issues
  130. 130. Using it for theater</li></li></ul><li>Photo Credits<br />Adam Reese & Heather Chamberlain<br />Stephanie Felton <br />Cecile Sutter<br />Jenny Tucker<br />Jayme Durant<br />Audrey Gamez<br />Laura Webb<br />Fashion-era.com<br />SarahAnn Sutter<br />

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