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Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009


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Detlef Fischer Bluesign Presentation Innov_Ex 09

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Bluesign Innovation For Extremes 06.05.2009

  1. 2. <ul><li>Introduction </li></ul><ul><li>Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems </li></ul><ul><li>The bluesign ® standard creates transparency </li></ul><ul><li>Industry challenges – resource management </li></ul>Agenda for today
  2. 3. <ul><li>Introduction </li></ul><ul><li>Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems </li></ul><ul><li>The bluesign ® standard creates transparency </li></ul><ul><li>Industry challenges – resource management </li></ul>Part 1
  3. 4. bluesign technologies ag The company <ul><ul><li>Founded in 2000, based in St.Gallen, Switzerland (EMPA building) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Emerged from a project with Schoeller Textil, Nike and Huntsman </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Development of “Supply Chain Tools” for the textile and related industry </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Recognized by leading chemical companies such as Huntsman, Clariant, DyStar, CHT-Group, etc. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Supported by Patagonia, MEC, The North Face, VAUDE, Helly Hansen, Eileen Fisher, Haglöfs, R.E.I. etc. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>SGS as shareholder since July 2008 </li></ul></ul>
  4. 5. bluesign technologies ag <ul><li>Vision: “One world – one standard” </li></ul><ul><li>Bringing together the entire textile manufacturing chain to jointly reduce the environmental footprint of the textile industry </li></ul>Goal bluesign ® standard Textile manu- facturers Fibre manu- facturers Chemical Suppliers Brands & Retailers
  5. 6. <ul><li>Introduction </li></ul><ul><li>Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems </li></ul><ul><li>The bluesign ® standard creates transparency </li></ul><ul><li>Industry challenges – resource management </li></ul>Part 2
  6. 7. Retailer/Brand situation Strict control mechanism in the supply chain Consumers assume that retailers are managing all risks (EHS, ethical) on their behalf <ul><li>Just one case of allergy or health issue in the public is enough to put the brand at risk </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Restoring a damaged reputation </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>is extremely costly </li></ul></ul>&quot;Brand Protection&quot; Consequence Brand <ul><li>Customer loyalty </li></ul><ul><li>People wear it </li></ul><ul><li>(often next to skin) </li></ul><ul><li>People identify with it </li></ul><ul><li>Emotional binding </li></ul><ul><li>Customer requirements </li></ul><ul><li>A safe product </li></ul><ul><li>An environmentally friendly product </li></ul><ul><li>A sustainable product </li></ul>
  7. 8. What happened in the last 20 years?
  8. 9. Current “ECO” approaches … <ul><li>Eco labels </li></ul>… the Solution? Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
  9. 10. Analyses show <ul><ul><li>MAK-Amines </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>PVC & Phthalates </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>APEO </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Heavy Metals </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>PFOA and PFOS </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Sensitizing dyes </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Toxic solvents </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Other toxic substances </li></ul></ul>Harmful substances in textile products!
  10. 11. Approach by brands and retailers <ul><li>Fact: Still a growing number of “problems” </li></ul><ul><li>Sourcing in locations with unknown EHS standards </li></ul><ul><li>Chemical industry can‘t handle increasing number of RSLs </li></ul><ul><li>EHS data of chemical components are often not available </li></ul><ul><li>In many cases, the decision maker at the manufacturing level does not possess the necessary chemical and toxicological know-how </li></ul><ul><li>Uncertainty through “new” problem substances e.g. PFOA / PFOS </li></ul>Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs
  11. 12. Practical experience Finding It is not possible to run a business based on analytical testing!
  12. 13. Practical experience <ul><li>Recent European ECLIPS study shows: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Many MSDS are of generally poor quality </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Much of important information not available </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69% </li></ul></ul>Material Safety Data Sheet l
  13. 14. Practical experience <ul><li>MSDS from company with high EHS-Standards: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Written for environmental chemistry specialists and toxicologists </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Interpretation complicated </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>For decision maker in the production difficult to implement </li></ul></ul>Material Safety Data Sheet ll
  14. 15. Practical experience <ul><li>MSDS of insufficient quality: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Data content doesn’t allow interpretation for end product </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Often simply no data or inaccurate data available </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Problem substances listed in RSLs are often not mentioned </li></ul></ul>Material Safety Data Sheet lll
  15. 16. If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care! Consequence Practical experience
  16. 17. Part 3 <ul><li>Introduction </li></ul><ul><li>Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems </li></ul><ul><li>The bluesign ® standard creates transparency </li></ul><ul><li>Industry challenges – resource management </li></ul>
  17. 18. <ul><ul><li>Environment </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Health </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Safety </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Resource productivity </li></ul></ul>The bluesign ® standard Worldwide industry standard
  18. 19. EHS Aspects … … in textile production work place ground-water contamination Soil contamination NO x CO 2 UFP‘s CH 4 SO 2 waste water waste products emission noise water raw material energy
  19. 21. Conventional approach Focus on end-product End-product Brands need more information Textile production chain Blackbox STOP
  20. 22. bluesign ® approach bluesign ® standard Input Process / Technology Focus on input streams End-product Textile production chain Blackbox Monitoring & Optimisation STOP STOP
  21. 23. Input stream management The five pillars of the bluesign ® standard Over 600 restricted and banned substances are monitored within the bluesign ® standard
  22. 24. <ul><ul><li>Use of eco-efficient products = to achieve best performance with optimized resource consumption and minimum air and water emissions </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Ecological footprint: minimized energy and material input per kg of textile product </li></ul></ul>Input stream management Resource productivity
  23. 25. <ul><ul><li>Carcinogenic substances </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Mutagenic substances </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Neurotoxic substances </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Endocrine substances </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Sensitizing and irritating substances </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>And others </li></ul></ul>Input stream management Consumer safety
  24. 26. <ul><ul><li>Emission factor (e-factor) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Substance emission factor (s-factor) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Recipe calculation based on e-factors leads to VOC optimisation </li></ul></ul>Input stream management Air emission
  25. 27. Input stream management <ul><ul><li>Biodegradability, bioelimination </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Fish-, bacteria-, daphnia-, algae toxicity </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>COD, BOD, TOC </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>AOX </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Aliphatic hydrocarbons, sulfate, phosphate a.o. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>ARS according TEGEWA Class I-III </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Heavy metals </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>And others </li></ul></ul>Water emission
  26. 28. <ul><li>Consideration of several relevant exposure scenarios: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Evaporation at large surfaces at stenter, printing and coating applications </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Handling at the dyeing machine at high temperatures (batching tank) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Handling of almost empty barrel </li></ul></ul>Input stream management Occupational health and safety
  27. 29. Input stream management Rating based on ecotoxicological data blue : All foreseeable applications within the bluesign ® standard grey : Can be used for “Performance Products” under conditions provided by “Best Available Technology” – as long as consumer safety is not compromised black : Usage ban Component categorization Rating Definition of applications (A) (B) (C)
  28. 30. Input stream management <ul><li>Tackle the root of the problem: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Clean components lead to clean products </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>and reduce environmental impact </li></ul></ul>Holistic approach
  29. 31. The bluesign ® standard in summary Qualitative comparison Focus on Consumer Safety Focus on Environment Market Penetration Focus on Resources & Processes Eco-Labels EU Eco Flower GOTS bluefinder™ bluesign ® standard Various RSLs
  30. 32. <ul><li>Various “Restricted Substance Lists” </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Nike, Levi’s, New Balance, R.E.I., Columbia, adidas, PUMA, H&M, C&A, M&S, IKEA, Coats and others </li></ul></ul><ul><li>REACH </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Concentration of „Substances of Very High Concern“ (SVHC) in bluesign ® approved fabrics is smaller than 0.1% </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>No reporting requirement according to article 33 REACH </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Notification according to article 2 REACH does not apply </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Current list of SVHC on ECHA website http:// </li></ul></ul>The bluesign ® standard in summary Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines
  31. 33. Tools – chemical industry <ul><li>Evaluation – Rating – Registration of commercially available chemical products </li></ul><ul><li>Translates the specialist knowledge of chemists and toxicologists into the language of the user </li></ul><ul><li>EHS-specialists of the chemical industry can register their products online on their own </li></ul><ul><li>Easy to use </li></ul>bluetool™
  32. 34. Tools – textile manufacturers <ul><li>Screening Agreement and NDA </li></ul><ul><li>Preparative steps – data collection </li></ul><ul><li>On-site verification </li></ul><ul><li>Compatibility with bluesign ® standard </li></ul><ul><li>Report with recommendations and “roadmap” </li></ul>bluesign ® screening Phase 1: Screening Phase 2: Implementation <ul><li>System Partner Agreement </li></ul><ul><li>Implementation of recommendations </li></ul><ul><li>Analytics per range – Certificate </li></ul><ul><li>Re-screening </li></ul>
  33. 35. Tools – textile manufacturers <ul><li>Selecting products for new applications </li></ul><ul><li>Easily find alternatives for existing applications </li></ul><ul><li>Innovation security – new products are safe from the beginning </li></ul><ul><li>Online tool – accessible anytime, anywhere </li></ul><ul><li>Growing database </li></ul><ul><li>With these products RSLs and SVHC requirements are met </li></ul>bluefinder™
  34. 36. Tools – brands and retailer <ul><li>Database including ecological and toxicological data of chemical substances relevant for textiles </li></ul><ul><li>Access to currently issued certificates </li></ul><ul><li>Overview of manufacturers: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>in screening process </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>in implementation phase </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>with certified products </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Manufacturers with access to the bluefinder™ </li></ul>blueguide™ (in development)
  35. 37. <ul><li>Introduction </li></ul><ul><li>Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems </li></ul><ul><li>The bluesign ® standard creates transparency </li></ul><ul><li>Industry challenges – resource management </li></ul>Part 4
  36. 39. Environmental Impacts … … of the textile industry <ul><li>Chemicals </li></ul><ul><ul><li>25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used directly or indirectly for textiles (Source: Greenpeace Germany) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>» Environmental impact </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Energy </li></ul><ul><ul><li>High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>» Contribution to global warming (CO 2 ) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Growing of cotton: 4,000 – 30,000 l / kg cotton </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Finishing of textiles: up to 700 l freshwater / kg textile </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Waste water in production: up to 600 l / kg textile </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Use of water for a large brand – 1,200 small lakes or </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>43,000 Olympic-size swimming pools per annum </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>» Mostly drinking water quality </li></ul></ul>Water
  37. 40. Resource management Motivation for Manufacturers Resource savings help to keep costs down by potentially reducing chemicals, water and energy using existing equipment… … not dependent on capital investment!
  38. 41. Resource management <ul><li>Resource inflation components (ric i ): </li></ul><ul><li>Electrical Energy ric 1 </li></ul><ul><li>Water ric 2 </li></ul><ul><li>Base Chemicals ric 3 </li></ul><ul><li>Additives ric 4 </li></ul><ul><li>Calorific Energy ric 5 </li></ul><ul><li>Resource inflation components: </li></ul><ul><li>Resource inflation factor: rif = 2.01 </li></ul>Resource inflation factor ric i = 1.0 1.55 1.0 1.77 1.0 2.24 1.0 1.67 1.0 2.61 BAT current
  39. 42. Resource management Cost inflation factor Total = 2.01 Electrical energy = 1.55 Water = 1.77 Base chemicals = 2.24 Additives = 1.67 Calorific energy = 2.61 Resource Inflation (rif): Cost Inflation (cif): Total = 2.09
  40. 43. Resource management Overview of the production process BAT 897’000 € Cost savings 2.09 cif 0.015 €/kWh 1.1 €/kg 0.45 €/kg 2 €/m 3 0.07 €/kWh Cost 2.01 rif
  41. 44. Resource management Convergence to BAT Resource Inflation Factor (rif) Cost Inflation Factor (cif) Initial-Screening Optimum 0 1 2 3 1 1. Re-Screening 2. Re-Screening 2.5 1.75
  42. 45. bluesign ® screening <ul><ul><li>Rating of all components in use </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Monitoring of processes </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Data acquisition and balancing of resources </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Screening report with recommendations considering the current local situation </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology” </li></ul></ul>Full factory analysis
  43. 46. bluesign ® screening <ul><ul><li>Transparency in the production </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Solution oriented </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Compliance with all common RSLs and meeting SVHC requirements </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>“ Insurance” for manufacturers, retailers and brands </li></ul></ul>Outcome
  44. 47. The bluesign ® standard <ul><li>Consumer Safety </li></ul><ul><li>Only approved components low on harmful substances are used </li></ul><ul><li>Conserving Resources Minimized resource consumption leads to a sustainable product </li></ul><ul><li>High-tech and Comfort No compromise in functionality, quality or design </li></ul>Developed in Switzerland
  45. 48. The bluesign ® standard … … trademark strategy Semi Finished Product Components <ul><li>Chemical comp. </li></ul><ul><li>Accessories </li></ul><ul><li>Yarns </li></ul>Final Product Labels Hang Tags
  46. 49. Thank you bluesign technologies ag EMPA Building Lerchenfeldstrasse 5 CH-9014 St. Gallen Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90 Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99 [email_address]
  47. 50. bluesign ® system partner <ul><ul><li>Huntsman, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Clariant, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>DyStar, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>ERBA, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Granger‘s, UK </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>SANITIZED, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Sympatex, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>CHT/BEZEMA, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Asahi Glass, Japan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Mahlo, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Benninger, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Polygiene, Sweden </li></ul></ul>Supporter
  48. 51. bluesign ® system partner <ul><ul><li>Hong Kong Textiles, Hong Kong </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>G-FUN Industrial, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Utermost Dyeing & Finishing, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Paltex, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Ho Chien Enterprise, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Youngone, Korea </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Grand Textile, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Fortune Spring, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Fabricoat, Taiwan </li></ul></ul>Manufacturers in screening process
  49. 52. bluesign ® system partner <ul><ul><li>Polartec, USA </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>FILÓ, Brazil </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>M.I.T.I., Italy </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Bischoff Gamma, Thailand </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Guan Lin / Synnix Technology, Taiwan </li></ul></ul>Manufacturers in implementation phase
  50. 53. bluesign ® system partner <ul><ul><li>Schoeller Textil, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Eschler, Switzerland </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Formosa Taffeta, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Getzner, Austria </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Everest Textile, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Schoeller Wool, Austria </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Lauffenmühle, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Singtex, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>HOYU, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Kingwhale, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Trueway, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Sunny Textile, Taiwan </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>and others </li></ul></ul>Manufacturers with certified products
  51. 54. bluesign ® member <ul><ul><li>Patagonia, USA </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Canada </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>The North Face, USA </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>VAUDE Sports, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Helly Hansen, Norway </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Eileen Fisher, USA </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Haglöfs, Sweden </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Jako-O, Germany </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>R.E.I., USA </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Deuter, Germany </li></ul></ul>Brands and retailers