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Dublin guide


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Dublin must-see sites

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Dublin guide

  1. 1. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps DUBLIN August - September 2012 Wonderful Wicklow Mountains and fountains at Powerscourt Estate Park Life Exploring the city’s finest outdoor spaces Enjoy your N°27 COMPLIMENTARY of Dublin In Your Pocket
  2. 2. Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving 5 Getting Around & The Basics 6 Culture & Events 8 History 10 Where to stay 11 Pillow plumping for weary heads Howth Harbour ©Fáilte Ireland. Where to eat 15 Nightlife 20 There’s whiskey at the bar What to see 24 Drink it all in Temple Bar 38 Beyond Dublin 39 Coastal escape within city reach Shopping 44 Vintage rules Maps & Street Register City map 48-49 Ireland map 50 Street Register 51Jim Larkin outside the August - September 2012
  3. 3. 4 Foreword We’ ve travelled beyond the city limts for this issue to visit two of Ireland’s finest Great Estates. And the The World of In Your Pocket great news is that both are within driving distance of Dublin. Co. Wicklow ’ s Powerscourt Gardens and Northern Estonia neighbouring Ritz-Carlton Hotel (p.42) offer scenic Ireland Russia respite designed to whisk you away to panoramic Ireland Latvia pastures new. While Co. Monaghan’s Castle Leslie Lithuania Estate (p.43) retains a bygone era of landed gentry, equine pursuits and forest walks. So hit the road and Belarus experience these two wonderful locations. Back in Dublin, and late summer promises finer weather Netherlands Poland and, here’s hoping, the perfect conditions for some lazy Germany Belgium Ukraine lolling in the city’s beautiful Parks. Find your picture- Czech postcard picnic spot from p.32. Republic And when it’s time to head indoors, Irish phenomenon Riverdance (p.8) continues at the iconic Gaiety Austria Theatre, the Guinness Storehouse (p.36) and Old Switzerland Slovenia Romania Jameson Distillery (p.34) serve visitors exemplary Croatia Irish sups and a tasty selection of Restaurants (p.15) Italy Bosnia Serbia and Nightlife (p.20) ensures everyone is kept well Bulgaria fed and watered. Montenegro Kosovo FYR Macedonia A superb selection of museums, galleries, shopping Albania and tours reinforces this fair city as one of the world’s Greece finest. Get your visit off to a memorable start by perusing What to see (from p.24). It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest Cover story publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the I f a picture paints continent (with more on the way) and the number a th ousand words of In Your Pocket guides published each year is then this is one approaching an amazing five million. masterpiece wor th Always an innovative publisher, we have just soliloquising about. launched a new version of our iPhone app, which One of Ireland’s most can now be downloaded for free from the AppS- magnificent estates, tore. Search for ’IYP Guides’ by name. Powerscourt House To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your and Gardens is Pocket, like us on Facebook ( resplendent both inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter ( inside and out. Go inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on explore on p.42. Foursquare ( Editorial Copyright notice Managing Editor Text copyright In Your Pocket Ltd. 2000- Heidi McAlpin (048) 9047 1328 2012. Maps copyright Maps in Minutes, E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Failte Ireland and TASCQ. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may Dublin Editor be reproduced in any form, except brief Dublin In Your Pocket Adam Hyland extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Advertising Sales Director Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Alan Groves (+44) (0)7795 082505 Lithuania tel. (+353)(0)1 (+370-5) 212 © In Your Pocket Ltd. 29 76). History contributor Published six times per year by In Dr. Jonathan Bardon OBE Editor’s note Your Pocket Ltd. The editorial content of Dublin In Your Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite Pocket guides is independent from paid- For all enquiries and comments for advertising. We welcome all readers’ contact For more news events, comments and comments and suggestions. We have competitions find us on made every effort to ensure the accuracy Next issue October - November 2012 of the information at the time of going to and press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Dublin In Your Pocket
  4. 4. Arriving 5Whether arriving on a low-budget plane, piloting yourown Learjet or driving sedately off a ferry, here’s some €1 =handy info to help smooth your journey. Doors to manual. £0.79, US$1.23,CAD$1.23, AUS$1.16 rates 03 Aug 2012By planeDublin Airport Tel. (+353)(0)1 814 1111, www.dublin-airpor Th e coun tr y’s main airpor t is By trainsituated approx. 10km north of Dublin city centre near Regional and national transport is getting there with a cross-the M50 and M1 motorways. A large number of buses, country rail network and super swift city services gliding youcoach es and ta xis ser ve th e airpor t which has t wo effortlessly from coast to coast. Jump aboard our listings andterminals - including the gleaming new T2. Remember to read up on Ireland’s InterCity railway system, Dublin’s twopay for any car parking at the automatic pay stations in main stations and the capital’s DART and Luas networks.the arrivals hall - or at the entrance to the short term carpark - before returning to your car, as there are no cashiers Iarnród Éireann Tel. (+353)(0)1 1890 77 88 99 - talk-at the exit. A bank, Bureau de Change and 24hr ATMs ing timetable, Ireland’s nationaldispensing Euros, US$ and GBP£ are on the arrivals level. train company covers 87 InterCity stations with servicesThe Airport Information Desk, Dublin Tourism Tourist divided into Standard and Superstandard Classes. SmokingInformation Office and Bus and Rail info desk are be- is prohibited on all services and in all stations. Dublin’s twoside the second entrance. Car hire desks (06:00 - 23:00) main train stations - Heuston and Connolly - are connectedare in the arrivals hall. The Mezzanine Level has a variety by a 14min Luas trip.of restaurants and cafés. Connolly Station C-2, Amiens St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 703 2358. Dublin’s busiest train station is on the north sideBy boat of the city beside Busáras Central Bus Terminal and Dublin’sDublin Ferryport (Dublin Port Company) D-2, financial area, the International Financial Services CentreAlexandra Rd, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 887 6000, www. (IFSC). The station is 5mins walk from the city centre. Ireland’s busiest port is the second larg- City trains go to Belfast, Sligo, Dundalk, Drogheda, Arklow,est industrial estate in the country and employs 4000 Maynooth, Longford and Rosslare Europort. The DART trainpeople. There are up to 18 daily sailings to the UK and runs to the affluent seaside villages of Malahide and Howththe continent, and Dublin-bound cruise ships also use on the north side and the pretty Co. Wicklow beach towns ofits terminal. Buses and taxis (difficult to find during busy Bray and Greystones on the south side. The Luas Red Linesailing times) provide a regular service to and from the terminates at Connolly Station.port which is just two miles from Dublin city centre. Keepwalking on the north side of the River Liffey past the O2 Heuston Station A-2, St. John’s Rd, D8, tel. (+353)and you are at the Port area. (0)1 703 3299. InterCity trains run to Cork, Tralee, Limer- ick, Waterford, Ballina, Westport, Galway, Ennis, Kildare andDun Laoghaire Harbour The Ferry Terminal, Harbour Clonmel. The station is south of the River Liffey at the endRd, Dun Laoghaire, tel. (+353)(0)1 280 8074, www. of the Quays, 20mins walk from the city centre, 15mins Seven miles south of Dublin city is the Victo- from the Guinness Storehouse and 5mins walk from Phoenixrian town of Dun Laoghaire whose man-made 19th century Park. The Luas Red Line connects Connolly Station on theHarbour is the largest in Western Europe. Daily Stena HSS east side and Tallaght on the west side.sailings connect the town with Holyhead in Wales, andbuses, taxis and the DART (20mins to Dublin City) provide DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) to and from the port. There is a Dublin Tourism home. The iconic green DART commuter trains carry aroundInformation Office in the ferry terminal which is located on 80,000 passengers every day as they traverse the city andthe seafront between the east and west piers, the former hug the coastline from Greystones in the South to Malahideof which has two Crimean War cannons. See p.39 for more or Howth in the north. Trains run from c.06:30 - 23:00 - checkinfo. the on-line timetable to avoid disappointment/frustration. Trains operate every 5/10mins during peak times, and there’s an average gap of 20mins during off-peak and 20-30mins on Dublin and Dun Laoghaire ferries Sun and Bank Holidays. Make like a local and buy pre-paid tickets to bag yourself a canny discount. Irish Ferries D -2, Terminal 1 , Dublin Ferry- port, tel. (+35 3)(0)1 855 2222, w w - Daily sailings to Holyhead, The Weather Wales (from 1hr 49mins). Temperature (°C) Rainfall (mm) 25 80 Isle of Man Steam Packet Company D-2, Termi- 70 nal 1, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 1800 505 505, www. 20 Easter - Sept. sailings to Douglas, 60 Isle of Man (2hrs 50mins). 50 rature °C 15 Rainfall (mm) P&O Irish Sea D-2, Terminal 3, Dublin Ferryport, 40 tel. (+353)(0)1 876 2345, Temper 10 30 Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs 30mins). Stena D -2, Terminal 2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 5 20 (+353)(0)1 204 7777, Daily 10 sailings to Holyhead, Wales from Dun Laoghaire Har- 0 0 bour (1hr 59mins) and Dublin Ferryport (3hrs 15mins). Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C) August - September 2012
  5. 5. 6 GETTING AROUND & BASICS Toll Roads & Dublin Port Tunnel Driving in Ireland Drivers must carry their drivers licence at all times. Drive on Major motorway construction over the last two decades the left. Traffic coming from the right-hand side has prece- has made road journeys between Dublin and major cities dence on roundabouts (traffic rotaries). It is compulsory to such as Cork (3hrs), Galway (2hrs 20mins) and Belfast wear front and rear seat belts. If renting a car with children (2hrs 15mins) quicker than ever. The small price to pay you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their for this is a network of tolls. The starting point for most age and weight. Children under 12 years are not permitted people leaving Dublin is the M50, which has an electronic in front seats. Speed limits: Motorway 120km/h, national barrier-free system that identifies and charges your car road 100km/h, towing trailers, caravans, etc 80km/h (or automatically as you drive through (payable at any petrol less where signposted). station within 24hrs), but other tolls can be paid in cash at manned booths. We recommend having the exact change ready for a speedy, no-fuss cash drop facility. Border Charges start from €1.80 per car. Check The island’s only land border, between the Republic of for updates and toll locations. Ireland and Northern Ireland (NI), is 360kms (224m) long and stretches from Lough Foyle in the north-west to Dublin Port Tunnel, D-2, Carlingford Lough in the south-east. In common with many This feat of modern-day engineering burrows seven storeys internal EU borders, it is very inconspicuous and open by beneath Dublin city, making your North/South journey a world standards. Drive on the left hand side on both sides lot more swift. Opened in 2007, the 4.5km Tunnel has two of the border but beware of the change in speed limits. In ’one-way’ tubes connecting Dublin Port with the M1 and the Ireland it’s kilometres per hour (kph) whilst in Northern National Roads network via the M50 at Coolock in around Ireland it is in miles per hour (mph). 10mins. Tolls (€3-10 each way depending on day and time) can be paid to a cashier, at a coin machine or in advance at Before entering remove sunglasses, turn Parking on dipped headlights and check you’ve enough fuel for the On-street parking meters operate a Pay and Display system. full 5.6km journey. Buy your tickets in advanced and display on the windscreen to avoid clamping or a fine. Retain the ticket counterfoil as a reminder of its expiry time. The average cost in the city centre By bus is €2.90/hr, with a max of 3hrs parking in most locations. Machines only accept cash. There are many multi-storey Dublin Bus B-2, Head Office, 59 Upper O’Connell St, D1, car parks in the city centre, and most offer a discount on tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4222, Dublin Bus overnight parking. Look for the digital signs - updated every serves Dublin city and county, and adjoining areas. Bus routes minute - telling you how many spaces are free. are known by the number on the front of the bus. Check the website’s timetable for local bus routes and times. Buses don’t stop automatically, so put your hand out when you see yours Currency & Banks coming. And buy a prepaid ticket or have exact change ready. Unlike their NI neighbours who still use £Sterling, Ireland is The on-board machine only accepts coins and no change is in the Euro Zone. Bank opening hours are usually Mon, Tues given. Prepaid tickets can be bought in advance, and in bulk, and Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00 and Thurs 10:00 - as singles, daily, weekly, monthly or annual tickets from Dublin 17:00. Many shops and services now use CHIP & PIN cards. Bus offices or ticket agents across the city. The Airlink shuttle In addition to banks, money can be changed at most Post bus runs between the Airport and the city centre, also stopping Offices, Tourist Offices and hotels. at Heuston, Connolly and Busáras Stations. Customs By Luas A full list of regulations, licences and allowances are available Tel. (+353)(0)1 461 4910, Luas (Irish from: Customs Information Office, New Custom House, for speed) light rail transit system was introduced in Promenade Rd, D3, tel. (+353)( 0)1 877 6222, www. 2004. These sleek, silver trams provide a frequent, fast and efficient passenger service across two lines and six zones. The Red Line runs from Saggart and Tallaght in the West to Connolly Station and The Point (location Emergency numbers and original title for the O2 arena) in the East. Keep an The main Emergency Services are Police (Gardaí), EMS eye on the destination at the front of the tram as some (Emergency Medical Service) and Ambulance, Fire and terminate at Heuston Station. The Green Line is en- Rescue, Marine and Coastal Emergencies and Mountain tirely in the Southside and links St. Stephen’s Green Rescue. Freephone 999 or 112 from a landline or mobile. with Brides Glen. Of the various fare options, visitors will most likely use Single (€1.60-2.90), Return (€3.10-5.20) or unlimited Post travel Flexi Tickets (1 day €6.30, 7 days €23). GPO (General Post Office) B-2, O’Connell St, D1, tel. Tickets can be purchased at plat form machines or (+353)(0)1 705 7000, Dublin’s main post (slightly cheaper) a Luas Ticket Outlet. Child’s prices are office is the stand-out architectural and historic landmark significantly cheaper. There’s on-board CCTV and a fine on bustling O’Connell Street. As well as buying stamps and for fare evasion. As most trams have an inspector, it’s sending parcels you can also pay bills, top up your mobile silly to try and get away with not paying. Trams run every phone credit and send or receive money, A small beautifully 9/10mins and 3/6mins at peak times (07:45 - 09:15). designed museum tells the story of the building, the postal Check for updates. QOpen 05:30 - 00:30, service and the GPO’s place in 1916. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 07:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun and Public Holidays. See Museum listing p.26. Dublin In Your Pocket
  6. 6. GETTING AROUND & Basics 7 Irish Tourist Assistance Service Symbol key C-2/3, 6-7 Hanover St. East, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 H Conference facilities W WiFi 6610562, fax (+353)(0)1 661 0452, info@itas. F Fitness centre E Occasional live music ie, If you are a tourist and have been a victim of crime, report the incident to the Gardaí (Police) K Restaurant J City centre location and call ITAS who can assist with language difficulties, D Sauna C Swimming pool cancelling credit cards/organising money transfers, con- tacting travel companies in relation to re-issuing stolen L Parking M Luas travel tickets, liaising with embassies for passport/ ID replacement and arranging accommodation, meals and transport in emergencies Q Open Mon-Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Public Holidays 12:00 - 18:00. Finding Your Way Around Unlike most European countries, Ireland has no post- codes as such. However, Dublin does have postalSmoking & Alcohol districts numbered D1 - D24. Keep your eyes on street signs and use our handy map and you’ll soon beThe legal age for smoking and drinking in the Republic navigating like a native.of Ireland is 18. In March 2004, Ireland became the first Dublin 1 and 7 are the North City Centre and Dublincountry in Europe to introduce a complete ban on smoking 2 and 8 are the South City Centre. These are the fourin the workplace. Remember to specify your preference for main districts you’re likely to visit. As Dublin is quite aa smoking or non-smoking room when booking accommoda- small city, you can still get to most places on foot so don’ttion. It is, unsurprisingly, illegal to sell or buy drugs anywhere be deterred; although Dublin 6 and 3 look a long way outin the Republic of Ireland. of the city centre, they’re really only about a 10min walk away. The only exception to this rule is Phoenix ParkTourist Information whose official address is Dublin 8, even though it’s on the Northside. Also, Dubliners rarely refer to places asDiscover Ireland Centre, B-2, Suffolk St, D2, www. Dublin 2 or Dublin 1, instead writing D2 or Located in a restored former church, take Another way of traversing the city with ease is to usea moment to admire the mightily impressive stained glass the River Liffey as your divide. Everywhere north of thewindows and equally inspiring vaulted ceiling. Tourist info Liffey is referred to as the Northside and all the postalabounds, and you can also book tours, accommodation and numbers are uneven. Cross over the River Liffey andlots of other visitor goodies at the various counters, including you’ve arrived in the Southside where all postal numbersour friends at Visit Ireland Travel. A ground floor shop sells are even. Hence, simply by where you live, you are eitherthe usual horde of souvenirs, and an upstairs sandwich bar a Northsider or a a great spot to galvanise yourself before joining your fellowsightseers and shoppers. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30(19:00 July & Aug), Sun 10:30 - 15:00. Also at Dublin Airportand 14 Upper O’Connell St. Ireland’s 2012 Public Holidays 1 Jan: New Year’s Day 4 June: Public Holiday 2 Jan: Public Holiday 6 Aug: Public Holiday Follow Dublin In Your Pocket 17 March: St Patrick’s Day 19 March: Public Holiday 29 Oct: Public Holiday 25 Dec: Christmas Day on and 9 April: Easter Monday 26 Dec: St Stephen’s Day 7 May: Public Holiday Dublin-Belfast Enterprise Rail Service Service: 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Days of operation: Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Dublin Connolly - Belfast Central Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 07:35 09:35 11:00 13:20 15:20 16:50 19:00 20:50 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 09:45 11:50 13:15 15:35 17:27 18:57 21:15 22:57 Belfast Central - Dublin Connolly Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 06:50 08:00 10:35 12:35 14:10 16:10 18:10 20:10 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 09:04 10:00 12:44 14:44 16:17 18:15 20:15 22:18 Days of operation: Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Dublin Connolly - Belfast Central Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 10:00 13:00 16:00 18:00 19:00 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 12:16 15:07 18:07 20:07 21:07 Belfast Central - Dublin Connolly Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 10:00 13:00 15:00 16:00 19:00 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 12:13 15:13 17:15 18:15 21:05 Book at for discounted fares (subject to availability). August - September 2012
  7. 7. 8 Culture & Events Bord Gáis Energy Theatre C-2, Grand Canal Square, Theatres & Concert venues Docklands, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7999, www.bor- Abbey Theatre C-2, 26 Lower Abbey St, D1, tel. Formely the Grand Canal Theatre, (+353)(0)1 878 7222, w w ey theatr Ireland’s latest cultural epicentre stages musicals, dance, Dating back to 1904, Ireland’s National Theatre was opera and family shows, including many West End and reopened by President Eamon De Valera at its current Broadway productions. site over six decades later. Irish culture and plays and international works are its main staple; one of its found- RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Ballsbridge, D4, tel. ers was WB Yeats. Acclaimed Irish playwrights George (+353)(0)1 668 0866, Over the years this Bernard Shaw, JM Syn ge, O’Casey, Wilde, Friel and colossus of a venue has staged many stellar performances Heaney have all been performed here. It has two au- with U2, Paul McCartney, Pavarotti, Michael Flatley and two ditoriums and a studio space, The Peacock Theatre, Eurovision Song Contests wowing the crowds. The RDS is which is dedicated to new plays and contemporar y spread across four facilities: the Concert Hall (cap. 900), Main classic drama. Hall (3000-5000), Simmonscourt Pavilion (up to 7000) and RDS Stadium (over 35,000). It also regularly hosts shows, Gaiety Theatre B-2, South King St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 conferences and sporting events. 679 5622, The Grand Old Lady opened in 1871 and is Dublin’s longest-established theatre The O2 D-2, East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay, D1, tel. in continuous production. An eclectic line-up, from Pavlova (+353)(0)1 676 6170, Taking up a corner in to Pavarotti and Julie Andrews to Jack Benny, has graced its Dublin’s central docklands, the O2 is the long-overdue replace- eclectic stage. The 1971 Eurovision Song Contest transmit- ment to The Point Depot. Now with a capacity of 12,000 and ted live from its auditorium - and marked RTE’s earliest colour what is described as “world class” acoustics, the Dublin O2 transmission of an indoor event. is already promising to be one of the best live music venues in Europe (as with its London equivalent). Gate Theatre B-2, 1 Cavendish Row, D1, tel. (+353) (0)1 874 4085, Although the Olympia Theatre B-2, 72 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 building is over 200 years old, the theatre was only founded 679 3323, Built in 1879, this famous here in 1928. In 1991 The Gate was the world’s first theatre venue was demolished and rebuilt several years later and to showcase all Beckett’s nineteen stage plays. It has also is now one of the city’s most atmospheric entertainment staged four Harold Pinter festivals and premiered many of meccas. On Dame Street, opposite Dublin Castle, it is cur- Brian Friel’s plays over the past 40 years. As this was not a rently owned by promoters MCD and plays host to concerts, custom-built theatre, delivered sets have to be cut up and comedians and popular productions. Its red metal and glass reassembled inside. To bring it into the next century, over façade is a well-known city landmark where variety is truly €6m is being spent on a new wing. the spice of life. Riverdance at the Gaiety Of all the performances to emerge from Ireland - in rock, music, theatre and film - nothing has carried the energy, the sensuality and the spectacle of Riverdance. And this summer, visitors to Dublin can experience this legendary dance and music extravaganza at the Gaiety Theatre from 26 June - 2 September. With its fusion of Irish and International music and dance, the show broke all box office records during its world première run in Dublin in 1995. It then transferred to London where the un- precedented reaction increased the original ten performances to 151. A hugely successful tour followed to New York, Belfast and Cork and, since those early days, it has packed theatres across North America, Oceania, Asia and Europe. Currently there is one Riverdance production each touring in North America (the Shannon) and through Australasia (the Moy). And every summer a third company (the Foyle) plays here in Dublin and in cities across Ireland. Riverdance was initially performed as a seven-minute inter- val act at Dublin’s 1994 Eurovision Song Contest. Its innovative and exciting blend of dance, music and song draws on Irish traditions and combines the talents of perform- ers as they propel Irish dancing and music into the present day. Up to 65 cast and crew members, with the remarkable River- dance Irish Dance Troupe, the cream of Irish musicians in the Riverdance Band and a spectacular array of international guest artists, perform to the magic of Bill Whelan’s music in this not-to-be-missed spectacular. To join the already more than 22 million people worldwide who have been thrilled by over 10,000 performances, contact the Gaiety Theatre Box Office by tel. (+353) (0)1 677 1717 or visit Dublin In Your Pocket
  8. 8. Events 9 Events & Festivals in August & September August Wed 15 - Sun 19: Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show, Sun 9 & Sun 23: GAA All Ireland Finals, Croke Park RDS, Merrion Rd, Dublin 4. Stadium, St Joseph Ave, Dublin 3. We love our horses in Ireland, and this long-standing Dublin The nation will turn its attention to the home of our tradition celebrates our affinity with our equine friends. The national games and whole counties will empty as sup- Horse Show welcomes the best national and international porters of the teams lucky, or good enough, to make show jumpers to the country and there’s a great festival the finals, will descend on the capital to see their atmosphere as thousands descend upon the venue for heroes battle it out for the country’s highest sporting great summer entertainment. If horses aren’t your thing honours. This is the climax of Ireland’s national sport, you can enjoy the show’s live music or indulge in a little and a glorious festival atmosphere will permeate each shopping at the arts and crafts exhibitions. Blossom Hill and every pub as fans who haven’t managed to nab a Ladies Day on Thur 16 sees Dublin women arrive in all of ticket congregate round the TV screens. The Hurling their finery. Hats at the ready. Runs 08:00 - 20:30 daily. Final takes place on Sun 9 while the Gaelic Football Tickets: From €33.35. Visit Final will be hosted two weeks later on Sun 23. Dublin or tel. (+353)(0)1 456 9569 (outside Ireland), 1800 are reigning football champions and if they make it to 719 300 (within Ireland). the final again you’ll need to get your seat early. For full details, go to Sat 18 - Sun 26: National Heritage Week Various Locations. Fri 21: Dublin Culture Night, Various Locations. This year’s nationwide celebration of our heritage has a There’s no escaping the fact - Dublin is a city of immense special focus on Built Heritage. Cultural, historical and culture, and for one night only, the city’s attractions open artistic attractions nationwide, many of them not usually their doors for this fab free event. Join the fun, festive open to the public, will be home to a huge variety of cre- atmosphere as Dubliners and tourists make the most of ative and educational events - many of them free. As well the city’s culture spots. Museums, galleries, churches, as guided walking tours there will be lectures, seminars, historic houses, studios and cultural centres will be exhibitions, workshops, open houses and a whole lot open late into the evening and will feature hundreds of of fun. Places to head to in the city include the National activities, including concerts, performances, tours and Museums, Dublin Castle, Merrion Square Open Day (Sat), workshops to keep you entertained. For a list of venues Kilmainham Gaol, Dublinia and both Cathedrals. For a full and activities visit list of what’s on where visit or tel. (+353)(0)56 777 0777 / 1850 200 878. Thur 27: Arthur’s Day, Various Locations. Starting out as an ingenious marketing ploy backed by Thur 23 - Sun 26: Dublin Tall Ships Races Festival, an unforgettable ad toasting Arthur Guinness for his George’s Quay and Dublin Docks. world-famous stout, Arthur’s Day has quite rightly be- We Dubliners don’t need much of an excuse to have a come an annual event. Join the crowds at their favourite party, but we think the fact that our fair city is the final pubs by raising a glass to the man himself, the founder host port for the Tall Ships Races is a pretty good one. of the Black Stuff, at precisely 17:59 (1759 being the Hardy seafarers will have made their way from St Malo year he founded the famous brewing company). Since in France across the Bay of Biscay to Lisbon, then Cadiz its inception, the Day has grown in popularity and has and Coruna, before hitting land here, and we will be out in become a major cultural event with gigs and perfor- force to greet them. As well as being able to visit the ships, mances all over the city for those lucky enough to get a there will be markets, nautical exhibitions and worshops, ticket, but even if you don’t get to see one of the many great water sport displays, literary trails, puppet shows, acts, you can still soak up a terrific atmosphere in pretty buskers and performances to enjoy, and to really put much any pub in the capital, many of which become some wind in your sails, Bulmers will be hosting a series surprisingly generous for the day that’s in it. To Arthur! of free concerts featuring top national and international Events are over 18s and more details can be found on artists - make sure to check in with us for updates on the line-up. For full details go to or tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5243. Thur 27 - Sun 14 Oct: Dublin Theatre Festival Various Locations and prices. September Presenting the best in national and international theatre, Sat 8 - Sun 23: Dublin ABSOLUT Fringe Festival this prestigious 18-day festival will this year celebrate Various Locations and prices. Dublin life in all its forms with a special focus called Your Ireland’s largest multi-disciplinary arts festival is now in City, Your Stories, highlighting the constantly changing its18th year and has steadily become one of the highlights city and its people, whether they live in, work in, or are of the city’s cultural calendar. With more than 500 events simply visiting the capital. Some 29 shows will be staged taking place across 40 locations, Dublin truly comes alive in venues around the city by national and international with dance, music, comedy, theatre, street performances theatre companies, with The Corn Exchange’s adapta- and exhibitions renowned for both entertaining and push- tion of James Joyce’s Dubliners and The Abbey’s version ing the boundaries. The audience will be placed centre- of Oscar Wilde’s The Picture Of Dorian Grey running stage for many interactive events such as a search for a alongside international classics like Hamlet, here re- time-travelling criminal using a specially designed app. constructed and reimagined by the acclaimed Wooster Watch out too for the new show, Elevator, from theatre Group. An absolute treat for anybody who loves theatre, company thisispopbaby - sure to be a highlight. Keep the extensive programme will have something for all posted on all the action at or tel tastes. For details visit www.dublintheatrefestival. (+353) (0)1 670 6106. com or tel (+353) (0)1 677 August - September 2012
  9. 9. 10 HISTORY The name Dublin comes from the Gaelic dubh linn or “black to grow, the city endured severe economic difficulties. pool” - where the Poddle stream met the River Liffey to form Destitute victims of the Great Famine poured into Dublin a deep pool at Dublin Castle. The city’s modern name - Baile from 1845-1850. Áth Cliath – means the “town of the ford of the hurdles”. Ireland’s four principal routeways converged at a crossing 1900 – 1923: At the outbreak of WWI, the Irish Republican place made of hurdles of interwoven saplings straddling Brotherhood and the Irish Citizen Army prepared rebellion. the low-tide Liffey. The insurrection began on Easter Monday 1916 and was eventually put down, leaving much of the city centre 837 AD – 917 AD: In 837, sixty Viking longships attacked around the General Post Office reduced to rubble. During churches round the Poddle and Liffey estuary, and the the War of Independence, beginning in 1919, much invaders made a permanent settlement in 841. guerrilla fighting took place in the streets, and in May 1921 the Irish Republican Army burned the Custom House. 917 – 1014: Dublin was the Viking world’s largest city and The 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty made Dublin the capital traded from Iceland to Constantinople. The first genuine of the Irish Free State. Disagreement over the terms ruler of all Ireland - High King, Brian Boru - was rebelled of the Treaty resulted in civil war which began when Free against by Dublin Vikings and the Leinster Irish. With the aid State troops bombarded the Four Courts and buildings in of Vikings, Brian crushed his foes, then was himself slain, in O’Connell Street. The anti-Treaty IRA called a truce in the an epic battle at Clontarf in 1014. spring of 1923. 1014 – 1170: The Vikings adopted Christianity and founded 1923 – 1965: Dublin remained an elegant but somewhat Christ Church Cathedral. In 1169, the deposed Irish impoverished city - the capital of a state which, in stages, King MacMurrough sought help from south-west Wales severed its last links with the British Empire in the 1930s Normans who, under their leader Richard FitzGilbert de Clare and 1940s and became a republic in 1949. Ireland’s first (Strongbow), seized Dublin. Taoiseach (or Prime Minister) Eamon de Valera kept the state - renamed Éire in 1937 - out of WW2. 1171 – 1399: In 1171 Henry II landed with a great army, and made Dublin the capital of the Normans’ Irish territory 1965 – 1991: A long era of peace, with trade agreements and the heart of the Norman and English colony. Christ with Britain in 1965 and the joining of the Common Market Church was rebuilt in the Gothic style and work began on in 1973 heralding spectacular – if uneven – city growth. In St Patrick’s Cathedral. In 1317 Scottish King Robert 1963, four months before his assassination, President the Bruce and brother Edward failed to take the city, but Kennedy visited Ireland. In 1979 Pope John Paul ll - the much destruction ensued. In 1348 the city was gripped by first reigning Pope to visit Ireland - celebrated mass in front the Black Death. of one million people at Phoenix Park. In 1985 the Irish and British governments signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement 1399 – 1603: English royal control of Ireland shrank during giving the Republic of Ireland a consultative role in the NI the 14th and 15th Centuries to coastal towns and an area government. In 1988 Dublin celebrated its Millennium and round Dublin known as the Pale. From 1485-1603 the became European Capital of Culture in 1991. city played a crucial role when Tudor monarchs undertook a reconquest. In 1603 The Earl of Tyrone submitted and, 1990s-2000: From the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger economy for the first time, the Crown won control of the entire island. boomed and many ex-pats – or Irish Diaspora – returned home. House prices vied with those in London, and 1603 – 1660: English monarchs decided Ireland should international music success, from Eurovision to U2, further become Protestant. Christ Church and St Patrick’s were cemented Ireland’s new culture of cool. In 1990 Mary taken over and restored. English Civil War broke out in 1642 Robinson became the first female President of Ireland. The and many citizens joined the Gaelic Irish rebellion which had feel-good factor spread into sport; cyclist Stephen Roche begun the year before. Eventually the forces of Parliament won the 1987 Tour De France, Ireland beat Italy in the prevailed, and defeated royalists and the Irish besieged 1994 US World Cup Finals and runner Sonia O’Sullivan Dublin at Rathmines in 1649. Oliver Cromwell landed thirteen won World Championship gold in 1995 and Olympic days later to begin the relentless subjugation of the country silver in 2000. 1660 – 1691: A remarkable period of recovery began and, 2000s: In 2002 the Euro replaces the Punt as Ireland’s between 1610-1683, the population rose from 26,000 to currency. In 2008 Ireland becomes the first EU state to 58,000. Instability returned when James II, chased from enter recession. On 28 Nov 2010 Ireland is forced to accept England, arrived in Ireland via France in 1689. He was given an €85billion EU bailout to prop up its decimated banking an enthusiastic reception in Dublin but, after defeat by system. On Fri 25 Feb 2011, the Fianna Fáil party suffers William of Orange at the Boyne in 1690, returned to France. the worst General Election defeat of a sitting government since the Irish state’s 1921 foundation. Fine Gael leader 1691 – 1798: A long peace followed William III’s victory, Enda Kenny becomes Taoiseach in a coalition with the and Dublin became the British Empire’s second largest city. Labour Party. In May 2011 The Queen is the first British By the middle of the 18th Century, the population was close monarch to visit Ireland since it became a Republic. US to 130,000. A magnificent new parliament house (now the President Obama follows with a whirlwind visit to Dublin and Bank of Ireland) was built in 1728 and a splendid gateway his ancestral home of Moneygall, Co. Offaly. In Oct 2011 and façade for Trinity College completed in 1759 – making Michael D. Higgins is elected the 9th President of Ireland. College Green the social hub of Dublin. 1798 – 1900: Rebellion by the United Irishmen in 1798. The authorities kept the insurrection out of Dublin but the Follow Dublin In Your Pocket revolt convinced Westminster to close the Dublin Parliament, and the 1801 Act of Union saw Ireland ruled from London. on and The aristocracy slowly deserted and, while it continued Dublin In Your Pocket
  10. 10. Jurys_Dublin_hotels_124x41_landscape_aw.pdf Where to stay 1 01/11/2011 11:52 11 C M YCMMYCYCMY K Hotels are experiencing a downturn in occupancy whic-h has Shelbourne Renaissance Hotel B-2, 27 St. Stephen’s resulted in big discounts available on-line and across a wide Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 663 4500, reservations@ range of accommodation providers. Check out our website, Immerse and iPhone App for lots more hotels and last minute savings yourself in what many people consider to be the Dublin via Star ratings reflect those given by Fáilte hotel. It’s certainly a city landmark of the finest order, with Ireland - the Irish Tourist Board. a tip-top location and history-laden ambience. Built in 1824, room 112 - The Constitution Room - is where the 1922 Irish 5 Star Constitution was drafted. Many of the suites are named after previous guests - most notably Princess Grace, and a recent Conrad Hilton C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, D2, tel. (+353) restoration has brought this grand old lady back to her original (0)1 602 8900,, www.conrad- splendour. Real log fires burn contentedly in the grates as you Located opposite the National Concert Hall, enjoy a cocktail in No. 27 Bar and Lounge or pint of Guinness this classic contemporary hotel is a stone’s throw from St. in the famous, traditional Horseshoe Bar. Afternoon tea in the Stephen’s Green and many of Dublin’s main attractions. Lord Mayor’s Lounge is a must if you want to emmerse yourself Calming muted tones dominate the bright rooms, and the in a recaptured era of high society Georgian Dublin. For all its Presidential Suite is pure indulgence. Large conferencing opulence, the Shelbourne is always welcoming and never facilities and WiFi access throughout ensure all your needs aloof. Visit, stay, enjoy. Q265 rooms (single €189 - €269, are taken care of. Relax and unwind at the hotel cocktail double €189 - €279, suite €349 - €2500). JHLKW bar - and Alex restaurant specialising in seafood - on the hhhhh ground floor. During summer, the traditional Alfie Burn’s Irish bar lays on open-air BBQs that are very popular with locals and guests. Q192 rooms. (single/double €169-240, suite Upmarket €219-319). JH6FLKW hhhhh Best Western Premier Academy Plaza Hotel C-2, Find- later Place, Off Upr O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 Four Seasons Hotel D-3, Simmonscourt Rd, D4, tel. 0666,, www.academyplazaho- (+353)(0)1 665 4000, reservations.Dublin@fourseasons. This newly rebuilt hotel is smart, inviting and slap bang in com, In the leafy Embassy- the city centre. All rooms have distinctive red and black checked strewn suburb of Ballsbridge, this six storey red-brick hotel sits carpets, soft cream walls, and crisp linens on the super-comfort majestically in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society. The beds, ensuring a good night’s sleep is on the cards. The modern Four Seasons is a stalwart of Dublin society and, as befits its bar and two restaurants - Oscars for trad and contemporary and stature, plays host to numerous charity balls. The ICE bar is for Abacus for elegant oriental dining - give this three star a culinary sipping champagne and cocktails, while Seasons Restaurant edge. Complimentary WiFi, discount guest parking, a gym and is the stomping ground of Dublin’s power players. Indeed, games room keep budgets in tact and boredom at bay. Golfing you could say the salubrious nature of the neighbourhood is services can be booked for business groups or individuals who reflected in the clientele. Rooms and suites are equally elegant, fancy getting tee’d off. The staff are very helpful and the location and the Spa is a tranquil oasis in which to repose and reflect on top notch... definitely one to check out. Breakfast €12. Q285 your fabulous surroundings. Q197 rooms. (single €225-500, rooms. (single €79-€225, double €89-249, triple €109-279, quad suite €400-2600). H6FKDCW hhhhh €159-319, suite €299-349). JHFKW hhh Merrion Hotel C-3, Upper Merrion St, D2, tel. (+353 )(0)1 Croke Park Hotel C-1, Jones’s Rd, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 603 0600,, www.merrionhotel. 871 4444, Facing onto Croke Park com. Created from four Grade A listed Georgian Houses, one Stadium, this big, new pristine hotel is greared up for business being the Duke of Wellington’s birthplace, this beautifully restored execs, but is also the place to be on match day as you soak up building boasts bright, antique-filled rooms and a modern wing the excitement and anticipation in the Sideline Bar and Bistro. overlooking a private garden. If staying here, invest in the rooms And, as it’s just 10mins walk from O’Connell St, all the major at- facing onto the Dáil (Irish Houses of Parliament). A two star Mi- tractions are reassuringly convenient. Self-styled Rejuvenate chelin restaurant, trompe l’oile swiming pool and two reception beds and duck down duvets soothe you into a blissful slumber rooms with fantastic sofas in which to sit and enjoy a glass of and - wait for it ladies - skirt hangers ensure your power suits stay wine, makes The Merrion a particularly romantic idyll. And con- crease-free. Bathrooms have separate baths and showers, and noisseurs will be pleased to learn that a French vineyard makes underfloor heating to keep toes toasty warm - nice touch. With wine exclusively for the hotel, and the extensive art collection WiFi in the public areas and executive rooms, and free car parking is privately owned by one of the three owners. Q142 rooms. for all guests, this is one upmarket overnight option well worth (single €460, double €480, suite €960-3000). JHFLK� a peep. Q232 rooms (single/double €85-309, triple €95-319, DCW hhhhh suite €299-650). HFKW hhhh August - September 2012
  11. 11. 12 Where to stay Gibson Hotel Dublin Docklands D-2, MLuas The Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC C-2, International Financial Point, tel. (+353)(0)1 681 5000, info@thegibson- Services Centre (IFSC), D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 433 8800,, Whether you are in, Dublin on business or for pleasure, this chic hotel at the MLuas Mayor Square. Light oak furnishings and neutral tones Point Village in the heart of the historic Docklands region create a calming place to stay and sleep. Especially convenient is in a perfect location and offers stylish and comfortable for execs frequenting the Financial Services Centre... just stroll accommodation. As it’s located right beside the 02 con- out the door and you’re there. Seal that deal by booking the cert venue you can enjoy a great show before strolling the fabulously cool penthouse for that important face-to-face - it very short distance to the comfort of your room or relax in could be the best investment you’ll ever make. And the adjacent one of the many bars, while those heading for a business one and two bedroom Clarion Quay Apartments allow you to meeting or conference in the nearby Financial Services create a more homely city base. The rooms at the front have Centre won’t have far to go to unwind. A range of eateries great views along the River Liffey while at the all new Santé and bars as well as inner courtyards and balconies mean Médispa all your worries are massaged away. Q180 rooms you can enjoy the feel of urban living with added comfort. (single €135-295, double €120-295, suite €195-210, apart- Q252 rooms €99-€250. JFKW hhhh ment: €135-200). JHFKDCW hhhh Jurys Inn Christchurch B-2, Christchurch Place, Boutique D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0000, jurysinnchristchurch@ Fitzwilliam Hotel B-2, St. Stephens Green, D2, tel., Nestled between (+353)(0)1 478 7000,, two major historic tourist attractions - Christ Church and St. Designed by Sir Terence Patrick’s Cathedrals - this particular Jurys Inn is extremely Conran in his famous sleek style, this smart hotel is located well placed for all the major city sights, shops and nightlife. at the top of Grafton Street, opposite St Stephen’s Green. The hotel recently underwent a full refurbishment, and the Its two star Michelin restaurant Thornton’s overlooks the budget-conscious among you will appreciate rooms that Green, making for a luxurious dining experience. Downstairs can accommodate up to three adults, or two adults and two the bar has relaxed chairs and some very comfy booths... children U10. The adjoining multi-storey car park is handy for great for those evenings when you feel like a bit of ’me- drivers, though charges do apply. Q182 rooms (182 Total time’. The stylish bedrooms come with fresh fowers, fab rooms ). Rooms from €80. JLKW hhh views and subtle lighting. From its quiet library in the lobby to Ireland’s largest roof garden, this is one hotel where you can escape the city on your doorstep. Q139 rooms Generator Hostel (double €180-€380, suite €240-€480). JHFLKW hhhhh Generator Hostel B-2, Smithfield Square, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 901 0222, dublin@generatorhos- Morrison Hotel B-2, Ormond Quay, D1, tel. (+353), MLuas (0)1 887 2400,, www.mor- Smithfield. This European hostelling giant has arrived MMetro Jervis. Originally designed by in Dublin - and conveniently landed right beside the Old John Rocha, and opened in 1999 to great acclaim, the Jameson Distillery and the Smithfield Luas stop. Which Irish style guru used Feng Shui to create the rooms. It was means young budget travellers get fantastic and afford- one of the first hotels in Dublin to epitomise modern sleek able accommodation in a great walk-to-the-city location. styling. And now, after a major extension adding 48 rooms Exposed brick walls, city-inspired graffiti art, Jameson ans a courtyard, the hotel is, more than ever, the epitome whiskey bottle chandeliers and even a pole dancing area of urban chic. For pure bedroom indulgence, dock your iPod, feature in the stylishly spacious, industrial-chic foyer. slip into the fluffy bathrobe and drape yourself across the Rooms range from 8-bed dorms to a large VIP suite with hand-painted Rocha throw. For dining and drinking, the jacuzzi - hello! And nestling in between are en-suite twins Café Bar is a great place to enjoy an afternoon coffee or and 4-8-bed private rooms, female only dorms and 4-6- evening cocktails. And the Halo restaurant - with its own bed dorms. All have storage lockers and funky bespoke entrance - is full of antiques and opens onto the Bohemian artwork, and en-suites get you top notch shower and Courtyard. You feel cool just hanging out here. Q138 rooms bathroom facilities. A lively bar with nightly entertainment (single €135-195, double €135-415, suite €195 -2000). and events, chill-out area and restaurant re-enforce the JHKW hhhh hostel’s social mantra. And free WiFi in social areas and computers in the net lounge keep you connected with Mid-Range all those new-found friends. A laundry service, luggage room, 24hr access secure key card system and free walk- Camden Court Hotel B-3, Lwr Camden St, D2, tel. ing tours make this low-cost overnight option pretty hard (+353)(0)1 475 9666, sales@camdencour thotel. to beat. Individual and group travellers are all welcome. com, MLuas Harcourt Q 500+ beds. Beds from €11. HEKW St. Rest your weary limbs at this well-known city centre hotel. Only 5mins from St. Stephens Green, and 30secs from the Luas, there’s no doubting Camden Cour t’s closeness to every city centre whim (but not too close to Temple Bar if you crave some quiet). The hotel has a full leisure centre which includes a 16m pool, gym, sauna and steamroom. Residents car parking is a definite bonus for such a great location. Feast at The Iveagh restaurant, then treat yourself to a cocktail or two at C Central bar before heading ’home’ to your refurbished contemporary bed- room. Job’s a good ’un. Q 246 rooms (singles from €75, doubles from €85). Breakfast incl. JHFKDCW hhh Dublin In Your Pocket
  12. 12. August - September 2012
  13. 13. 14 Where to stay Jurys Inn Custom House C-2, Custom House Quay, D1, MLUAS Busáras, tel. (+353)(0)1 854 1500, http://dub- Airport Whether Premier Inn Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel. you’re arriving by car via the Dublin Port Tunnel, off the train (+353)(0)1 895 7777, Clean lines from Connolly Station or by bus from Busáras, this Docklands set the tone for this great value hotel chain. Rooms have the hotel is just about the handiest in town. It’s walkable from the expected array of extras including WiFi (chargeable), modem last two, and, if you’re feeling lazy, close to a LUAS stop for point, satellite TV and hairdryers. King size beds with top- seamless city centre jaunts. The sparkly new Dublin Conven- notch pillows and duvets, coupled with the hotel chain’s Good tion Centre, O2 Arena and Grand Canal Theatre are also within Night Guarantee, mean you won’t need to worry about nearby very easy walking distance. Inside, many rooms overlook the aircraft disturbing your slumber. Parking is free for guests, and River Liffey, Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship and harp-like Samuel a free airport shuttle bus will ensure you arrive on time for Beckett Bridge. And their contemporary decor, with cosy chairs your flight. Q Rooms from €70. Breakfast: Full Irish €11.95. and bed throws exude a homely air. The foyer-level continues Continental €7.75. HLKW the contemporary theme with its bar, cafe and restaurant. Payable breakfasts, wifi and nearby parking keep you in control Radisson BLU Hotel Dublin Airport Dublin Airport, of the cost. Q 239 rooms (rooms from €80). JHKW Co. Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 844 6000, info.airport., dublinairport. Just at the Airport roundabout, you can’t get Budget any closer to the terminals without boarding a plane. Nearby Castle Hotel B-1, 2-4 Great Denmark St, D1, tel. (+353) complimentary spa facilities, on-site business center with 27 (0)1 874 6949,, www.castle-hotel. meeting rooms, trad Irish pub, gourmet restaurant and express ie. This Georgian house hotel exudes all the elegance of its check-out keep you refreshed, refuelled and ready for your era yet is imminently affordable. Just 2mins from O’Connell Dublin adventure. And when it’s time to depart, the free 24hr St and opposite the Garden of Remembrance, the location is shuttle bus will whisk you to your terminal of choice... keep an top notch and history-steeped. Within walking distance you’ll eye on lobby TV screens for latest flight schedules. Q229 also find Dublin’s main shopping district, Temple Bar, Croke rooms (standard from €89, business class from €129, jr suite Park, and cultural heavyweights the Abbey and Gate theatres, from €149, executive suites €250). HFLKDCW Municipal Art Gallery, Dublin Writers Museum and James Joyce hhhh Cultural Centre. All bedrooms are individually decorated and maintain those original Georgian features including crystal chandeliers, plasterwork, magnificent antique mirrors and Irish Landmark Trust beautiful marble fireplaces. Large family rooms can accom- modate up to two adults and three children. And the hotel’s Fancy overnighting in an Irish gate lodge, castle or family-friendly facilities extend to special menus for children, lighthouse? These and many more unique and history- while you can enjoy the local produce at the hotel bar and res- steeped properties are among the Irish Landmark taurant where there’s traditional Irish music every weekend. Trust’s distinct portfolio of sixteen holiday lets. Q130 rooms (single €59, double €84). Incl. breakfast. Free Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and WiFi. Parking chargeable. JHLKW hhh crumbling buildings from across the island of Ireland - many of national significance - and returns them to their Maldron Hotel Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, D7, former glory for everyone to enjoy. tel. (+353)(0)1 485 0900, info.smithfield@maldronho- These meticulously renovated properties range from, MLuas Smithfield. Drum Gatelodge on Northern Ireland’s stunning north Clean lines and contemporary design define this bright and Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeeper’s House contemporary purpose-built hotel located behind The Old overlooking Co. Cork’s brooding coastline. Jameson Distillery. Some rooms, including seven junior suites, Merrion Mews provides quirky city centre accommo- have private balconies, offering panoramic views of the city and dation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. all rooms have power showers, coffee maker and free WiFi... And No. 25 Eustace Street (pic) in the city’s vibrant perfect for the exec on the move. It’s a 5min walk to major Temple Bar offers a tranquil Georgian haven a world shopping areas and tourist attractions. With the Luas just away from the melee. moments away access to the O2, Grand Canal Theatre and Authentically decorated in period detail, these retreats IFSC. Q92 rooms (room only from €69). JHLKW hhh offer beautiful escape in enchanting settings. All proper- ties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a Hostels romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together with family and friends. Dublin Hostelling International (An Óige) C-1, 61 And by staying at one of these properties, not only Mountjoy St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 830 1766, mailbox@ are you having a fantastic and memorable holiday in a, Reminders of this building’s magical setting, but you’re also helping preserve more previous incarnation await at every turn. Once a convent and incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy. school, if you want to call home you do it - appropriately - from Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust the confessional booth. And breakfast is served in the former - including buildings currently under renovation - and book chapel. An Óige is Irish for ’youth’, but all ages can avail of this your dream property by visiting www.irishlandmark. centrally-located hostel which is the city’s only member of com or tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4733. Hostelling International. Facilities include en-suite private rooms, dorms, an outside garden with seating and a children’s play area. The games room and book exchange feed the grey matter, and dinner and lunch can be served on a request basis for group Turn to p.42 and p.43 for features bookings. Complimentary breakfast available. Q297 rooms (private per room: single €28-36, twin/double €48-50.50, on the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt triple - €66-75, 4-bed €84-97.50, dorms per person: 6-bed and Castle Leslie €16.50-21.50, 8-bed €14-20, 10-bed €13-19. JLKW Dublin In Your Pocket
  14. 14. where to eat 15 fun clientele. Long benches and enormous picture windows Restaurant Price Key open on a summer’s evening, lending an air of downtown NYC. Stand-out dishes for your humble editor include Black Pepper € A really nice sandwich and coffee should be no Squid and Yellow Butternut Squash Curry. So popular is Saba more than €7-10 that they now have a take-away and food store in Rathmines €€ A cheap but tasty main course should be around (see QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, €11-17 Wed, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€€. JS €€€ Standard prices in most restaurants are mains €18-27 Siam Thai B-2, South Andrew St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 €€€€ A pricey but good restaurant will have mains 677 3363, This contemporary Asian at €28-35 chain is so popular that they’ve sprung up all over the city. €€€€€ An expensive restaurant will be flying to the skies The owners have aired away from the clichéd Thai theme with €35 and over. and opted for a stylish, streamlined and beautifully-lit interior. Subtle spotlit Asian artefacts provide the main clue to itsAsian cuisine’s origins. The staff are mostly Thai and very courte- ous, and the food is consistently top notch. No monosodiumCafé Mao B-2, 2-3 Chatham Row, D2, MLuas St Ste- glutamate is used in any of their recipes, and starch andphen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4899, www.cafemao. flour are kept to a minimum too, so you don’t have to worrycom. Bright and cheery, this is one of the most popular about an expanding waistline during dinner. Q Mon - ThurAsian Fusion venues in Dublin. The white walls - adorned 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sunwith photos of Chairman Mao in an Andy Warhol vein - and 16:00 - 22:30. €€€. JKprimary coloured seats give it a real feel-good factor. As it isconstantly busy, and you can’t book a table in advance, try to Wagamama B-2, South King St, D2, MLuas Stget there before the crowds. And, with a new coeliac menu, Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 2152, www.Mao has yet again increased its popularity. For those of you Visitors from Britain will instantly recogniseon a diet, the menu kindly notes what dishes are low in fat so this renowned noodle franchise. Designed in the style of ano need to fret while munching on a tasty morsel. The Five Japanese ramen bar, the unintimidating menu is very easySpice Chicken is one of the favourites. Q Mon - Tue 12:00 - to read, with detailed descriptions of each dish printed on21:30, Wed - Sat 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:30 - 21:00. €€€. J placemats that are then marked with your order. Its long benches mean the atmosphere is lively and fun - great forSaba B-2, 26-28 Clarendon St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s groups, if not romantic dinners a deux - but be warned... theyGreen, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 2000, tend to bring each dish when it’s ready rather than in any par-Meaning “Happy Meeting Place” in Thai, Saba is an award- ticular order. A reasonably priced kids menu is also available.winning restaurant (Best Service Award, Cocktail Bar of the Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, SunYear, Most Stylish Restaurant) that’s always packed with a 12:00 - 22:00. €€. JKS south king st | cork | blanchardstown | belfast | dundrum • delicious noodles • rice dishes lunch • freshly squeezed juices deal • • wine sake €9.95 12pm - 3pm | mon-fri • japanese beers * includes complimentary • kids menu drink take-out menu available south king st tel: 01 4782152 cork tel: 021 4278874 blanchardstown tel: 01 8219449 wagamama ireland dundrum tel: 01 August - September 2012
  15. 15. 16 where to eat Yamamori Noodles B-2, 71-72 South Great George’s red-blooded Bear on South William Street. But for us, this St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 5001, www.yamamori- one is right at the top of the pecking order (sorry again). Q This renowned restaurant with its bold back 12:00 - 00:00. €€. K and red exterior features an extensive menu of fabulous, fresh Japanese food. Small and large groups gravitate to its The Farm C2, 3 Dawson Street, D2, MLuas St long benches and tables while very efficient and beautifully Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8654, www. dressed staff serve up those exotic eats. The vegetarian This is just what the name sug- menu is just as fulfilling, with plenty of tofu alternatives. gests - good wholesome food. Products are locally sourced Extremely popular with locals we recommend booking in and the majority are organic or free-range. As a result, advance. A real gem... this is sushi and fun all rolled into menus are subject to seasonal changes. This is home- one (I thank you). If you can’t get a seat here, the (slightly) style cooking in a very funky location. Treat yourself to smaller Yamamori Café is directly across the street, serving the Cottage Pie or the organic burgers, followed by some a shorter but no less delicious choice of bites - the sweet fantastic traditional apple tart. Most of the wines are also potato chips are outstanding. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 10:30, organic. This is guilt-free dining out. Q Sun - Thur 11:00 - Fri - Sat 12;00 - 23;30. Sushi €, Dinner €€. YJ 23:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:00. €€€. J Green 19 B-3, 19 Camden Street, D2, MLuas Har- Burgers & Pizzas court St, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 9626, www.green19. Elephant & Castle B-2, 18 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353) ie. This very trendy little eaterie is like a little bit of New (0)1 679 3121, Ever since York in Dublin, but without the high prices. It’s a little this informal restaurant opened its doors way back in 1989, cool and a little funky, but don’t worry about dressing queues of diners have descended every night. They come up or dressing down as it’s also extremely laid-back and from miles around to savour the spicy chicken wings - a welcoming - dining out has never been such good value. Dublin legend. The burger menu is as big as the Spire and The chefs aim to provide good, wholesome meals using the come hither desserts are just too tempting to refuse. seasonal produce, sourced in Ireland where possible. Their brunch is great, too, so if you’re in the area, call by and There is a mean cocktail list and the wine selection is savour its scrummy delights. Q Mon - Fri 18:00 - 23:30, pretty great, and affordable. Q Mon - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 23:30. €€. J Sun 12:00 - 22:00. € - €€. JK Hard Rock Café B-2, 12 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, D2, L Mulligan Grocer A-2, 18 Stoneybatter, D7, MLuas tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7777, The Museum Stop, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9889, www.lmulli- Hard Rock phenomenon arrived in the city in 2004, and this True to its claim, L Mulligan Grocer is indeed spacious diner-style cafe - with room for 350 rock rubberneck- a real eating and drinking emporium. Situated just out of the ers - pays homage to Ireland’s, and the world’s, rich musical city centre but easily accessible by Luas, this is a real gem heritage. Bono’s shades and hand-written lyrics take centre of an eatery, a great place to enjoy fresh, locally-sourced stage in the U2 section, while a shirt worn by Elvis shares wall produce from a seasonal menu that changes weekly. The space with Macca’s boots, Madonna’s jacket and, of all things, food is great and the atmosphere homely. It’s also an ideal a rug owned by Jimi Hendrix. In between ogling the rock and spot for connoisseurs of beer and whiskey. There’s more than pop paraphernalia and watching music videos on the plasma 100 imported beers and ales available, while the range of screens, get stuck into the all-American menu’s smokehouse, homegrown craft beers is not to be sneezed at either. Perhaps burger, hot sandwich and salad selections. Then head to the best of all is the range of whiskeys (and, as they point out, souvenir shop and bag a ubiquitous HRC Dublin T-shirt to whiskies) from Ireland and around the world, a speciality of the show the folks back home. Look for the big neon guitar shining establishment. Q Mon-Fri 16:00 - 23:30, Sat 12:30 - 23:30, down on Temple Bar. Q 12:00 - late €€€. J Sun 12:30 - 23:00. €€. JK TGI Friday’s B-2, St Stephen’s Green, D2, MLuas St Odessa B-2, 14 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1233, www.fri- 7634, Since it opened in 1994, Odessa What began in New York in 1965 has now become has managed to stay ahead in the happening stakes. Re- a global brand - and its Dublin restaurant a landmark on the nowned for its brunch, this contemporary space is the Green. The dazzling array of burgers, salads, fajitas, pasta, spiritual home for trendy types listening to funky music and seafood - and over 100 cocktails - relentlessly satisfy new keeping a subtle eye on their cool contemporaries. For those and returning fans. The Jack Daniel’s grill features a feast of of you feeling under the weather, a pitcher of Bloody Mary fodder laced with the famous whiskey glaze. And little ones will soothe the soul, and their Smoked Chicken Quesadillas feeling a bit peckish can avail of the organic baby food which and Odessa Burger will always deliver. The upstairs seating is free when you dine. Also at Blanchardstown Shopping is all restaurant, whereas downstairs has the air of a relaxed Centre, tel: 822 5990; Blackrock, tel:288 5155; Dundrum drinking club. Now with a members club above the restaurant, Town Centre tel: 298 7299. Q 12:00 - 23:00 €€€. J this is definitely one for the haves and wannahaves. Have we just invented a word? Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 00:30, Fri - Sat Contemporary 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€€. J Crackbird B-2, 60 Dame Street, D2. One of the best Pearl Brasserie C-3, 20 Merrion St Upr, D2, tel. pop-up-restaurants-turned-permanent fixtures, this place is (+353)(0)1 661 3572, w w the home of addictive chicken - hence the name. If you love Beautifully presented seafood and the use of traditional fried chicken and all the sides that go with it, this is for you. meats such as rabbit, pigeon and vension set this inven- It’s so popular there is no phone number to book with, or a tive menu apart from the norm. The warm-hued interior website, but appropriately enough you can tweet them, and has well-spaced tables and wonderfully romantic alcoves it always seems to be bursting with atmosphere. If chicken perfect for intimate occasions. The hidden table at the doesn’t get your wings flapping (sorry) try one of the sister back also makes an ideal venue for private dinner parties. restaurants - Skinflint on Crane Lane, Jo’Burger in Rathmines An oyster bar, peat burning fire, fish tanks and modern art or the newly-opened one on Castle Market Street, or the very add to the special ambience. And it’s always nice to know Dublin In Your Pocket