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  1. 1. Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps KRAKÓW June - July 2013June - July 2013 Lajkonik Bearded, boozy imposter… and city icon Jagiellonian University Kraków’s hallowed halls of higher learning “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times N°82 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) krakow.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1508-2334
  2. 2. Find us on Google Maps How to reach us: tramways: 1, 9, 11, 14, 20, 22, 50 direction: Rondo Grzegórzeckie tramways: 9, 50 direction: Starowiślana Street buses: 125, 128, 184 direction: Rondo Grzegórzeckie Opening Hours: Mon. - Sat.: 10 am - 10 pm Sun.: 10 am - 8 pm www.galeriakazimierz.pl IN THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE, NO MATTER IS TOO SMALL. AND EXCELLENCE IS NO SMALL MATTER.
  3. 3. 4 Kraków In Your Pocket CONTENTS krakow.inyourpocket.com Feature Jagiellonian University 8 Arrival & Transport 10 The Basics 15 Culture & Events 17 Hotels 28 Restaurants 36 Cafés 66 Nightlife Bars & Pubs 70 Clubs 74 Kazimierz Nightlife 78 History 80 Sightseeing 82 Old Town 83 Wawel 94 Kazimierz 97 Podgórze 102 Jewish Ghetto 105 Płaszów 107 Salwator 110 Las Wolski 112 Nowa Huta 113 Further Afield Wieliczka 116 Auschwitz 120 Tyskie 123 Tarnów 124 Leisure 128 Shopping 131 Directory 136 Maps & Index City Centre Map 139 City Map 140 Nowa Huta Map 142 Street Register 143 Listings Index 144 Features Index 146 Every city needs a symbol, and Kraków – pigeons (curse them!) aside for the moment – has Lajkonik. A jolly, mounted mock-invader from the East, as misappropriated and politically incorrect as he may seem, Lajkonik makes a surprisingly fitting composite of Kraków itself: part history, part legend, part tradition and part absurdity (with traces of alcohol). Get the full story on page 68, and turn to page 20 for the details of this year’s Lajkonik Parade, as well as what else is happening in Kraków during your stay. Photo: Elżbieta Lang, MHK. Contents The country’s best and brightest (and best-looking we’ve noticed) come to Kraków to study at the city’s storied Jagiellonian University. The highest-ranking college in Poland, JU is also one of the world’s oldest and deserving of investigation beyond bird-watching the undergrads as you cad about town. The university’s main spoils are all clustered together only minutes from the market square and we tell you more about what to see on page 8. THE RESTAURANT WORTH RECOMMENDING
  4. 4. 6 Kraków In Your Pocket FOREWORD krakow.inyourpocket.com Copyright Notice Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Kraków, agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl If this is your first time in Kraków, you’re a little late to the party (we’ve already been here for 14 years, by comparison), but we’re glad you could join us. It’s no accident that Kraków has become Poland’s number one tourist destination. This dame has it all, from high breeding and good looks to cultural clout and an up-for-anything attitude. Endowed with the most voluptuous market square in Europe (p.86), an ancient riverside castle (p.94) and atmospheric former Jewish district (p.97), it’s no surprise that the city centre was added wholesale to UNESCO’s first-ever list of world wonders back in 1978. While your camera will certainly get a workout, so will your liver once it lights upon the highest density of bars and pubs to be found anywhere in the world (p.70). Whether or not you’ll agree that this is the best time of the year to visit Kraków (spoiler alert: it is) will depend on whether you prefer the spirit and pulse of the crowd, or the thrill and illusion of independent exploration. During peak tourist season, which you may have noticed you’ve thrown yourself into the thick of, the city still offers the opportunity for both. In concert with tourists, temperatures and ladies’ hemlines all hitting their high marks in the next two months, June and July also represent the absolute zenith of Kraków’s cultural calendar. First it’s fireworks and fangs along the river during the absolutely fabulous Dragon Parade (on the cover, as well as p.22), followed by the city’s loveable lout, Lajkonik (who we examine in depth on pages 68 and 20) emptying Kraków’s coffers and ‘kufels’ (-that’s Polish for ‘beer steins’) during his potty parade to the market square. For music fans it doesn’t get any better than the Jewish Festival (p.27), whose free finale on ul. Szeroka is one of Krakow’s greatest displays group ecstasy. If you’re looking to go Lone Wolf McQuade, this guide is full of suggestions for that too – look no further than across the river where a trip through Podgórze to Krak’s Mound (p.102) and on to Płaszów (p.107) is one of the most profoundly personal expeditions you can partake in. Whatever your preference, you have the perfect guide in your hands to take full advantage of all this city has to offer, so do your homework and don’t let all the hard work we’ve done just lie about. Keep this guide close to your vest, or if you’re feeling really randy, you might consider putting it in your pocket. As ever, we encourage your feedback via comments on our website – krakow.inyourpocket.com – or old-fashioned email to editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Kraków. Editorial Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed Research Manager Anna Hojan Researchers Maria Rulaff, Oliwia Hojan, Michał Albrychowicz Events Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak Photography In Your Pocket, Paweł Krzan Cover 12th Great PGNiG Dragons Parade, Teatr Groteska, A. Kaczmarz Sales & Circulation Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676 Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków Company Office & Accounts Joanna Szlosowska 58 555 08 31 krakow@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Published 20,000 copies, 6 times per year The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in print, online and via mobile application has climbed over 65 in some 21 countries, with an astounding 4.6 million city guides published each year. To keep up to date and show your support, ‘like’ us on Facebook (facebook.com/ krakowinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/@krakowiyp). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely subjective and independent of paid-for advertising or sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right to say whatever the hell they damn well please about the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, owners or the general public. The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. Europe In Your Pocket Czech Republic Poland Romania SerbiaBosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Belgium Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland
  5. 5. 9 June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.com 8 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITYJAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY It may be hard to believe, but the young reprobates you see staggering out of Kraków’s bars and clubs actually represent the country’s educational elite. Kraków’s Jagiellonian Univer- sity is rated as Poland’s best institute of higher learning, as well as being one of the oldest in the world - in Central Europe only Prague’s Charles University predates it. Its story begins in 1364 when, after years of pleading, King Kazimierz the Great finally persuaded Pope Urban V to grant permission to establish a seat of higher learning in Kraków, which the King primarily funded with proceeds from the nearby Wieliczka salt mines. Three years later the school bell was ringing in the lessons, namely philosophy, law and medicine. Origi- nally named the ‘Kraków Academy’, the university started to flourish in the following century when math, theology and astrology were introduced, attracting eminent scholars from across Europe. The rapid expansion necessitated a larger campus and the building today known as Collegium Maius was built in the latter half of the 15th century. It was here that Nicolas Copernicus - who would later go on to revolutionise our understanding of the universe - studied from 1491 -1495. The university’s ‘golden age’ was certainly during the Polish Renaissance in the early 16th century when the Jagiellonian Library was established and the school set an attendance record that wouldn’t be surpassed until the late 18th century. When the country’s capital was moved to Warsaw in 1596, the university’s fortunes declined along with those of the city. During Poland’s era of partitions the university was actually threatened with closure before being saved by a decree from Austrian Emperor Ferdinand I. In an about-face from their initial hostilities towards the university, the Austrians began to invest heavily in its development and by the 1870s the school had re-established its lofty reputation. It was at this time that the Neo-Gothic Collegium Novum was built and one of the university’s greatest moments came in 1883 when professors Zygmunt Wróblewski and Karol Olszewski achieved the liquefaction of nitrogen and oxygen. Concurrent with a common theme throughout Polish history the prosperity was again fleeting. In 1939 the Nazis occupied Kraków and arrested the university’s professors during ‘Son- deraktion Krakau,’ sending them to the Sachsenhausen and Dachau concentration camps. Many never returned, but those that did helped form the underground resistance university which was in place until the war’s end. Jagiellonian also played its part in the anti-totalitarian protests of the ‘60s and ‘80s, and today is the once again the top-ranked training ground of Poland’s educational elite. Poland’s entry into the European Union in 2004 has greatly increased its fortunes and funding with the development of new departments and better facilities, including a new so-called ‘Third Campus’ or ‘The 600th Anniversary Campus’ in the Pychowice district which is slated for completion in 2015. For the 2012/2013 academic year the university enrolled over 51,000 students in 59 programmes of study. What to See Jagiellonian is made up of several campuses and academies all over Kraków, but the main points of interest to tourists are all clustered around Św. Anny and Jagiellońska Streets (B-3), just minutes from the southwest corner of the market square. Collegium Maius - the university’s oldest building and home to its museum - shouldn’t be missed. Adjacent is the picturesque Professors’ Garden, and around the corner you’ll find the beautiful Collegium Novum, beside which stands a monument to Copernicus. Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Mu- seum) B-3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. The university’s oldest building (and one of the oldest in Kraków), Collegium Maius was built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, 36 years after the university’s founding. A century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, visitors can take a 45-minute guided tour of the museum in English which includes the lecture halls, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury. Along the way you’ll see some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. Tours take place Mon - Fri at 13:00, and you should call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place. If not, don’t fret; shorter, more basic English- language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes throughout the day (though we’re informed it’s wise to arrange these beforehand as well). Recently a separate interactive exhibit about mathematics titled Everything...is a number (‘Wszystko...jest liczbą’) has opened (open 09:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 7/5zł). The building’s court- yard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and don’t miss the beautiful Professors’ Garden just next door (accessible via a beautiful painted passageway). Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł for permanent exhibit, 16/12zł for entire museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or tour. Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and 18:00 for a self-guided tour. Collegium Novum B-3, ul. Gołębia 24. The main build- ing of Jagiellonian University, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was built in 1873-1887 to a neo-gothic design by Feliks Księżarski to match the style of Collegium Maius. Subsidised with money from Vienna when Kraków was a ‘property’ of Austrian Galicia, the building was opened for the university’s 500th anniversary after years of contro- versy and debate. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Con- versation with God. A plaque commemorating ‘Sonderak- tion Krakau’ can be found in the first floor lecture hall from which the university’s professors were arrested. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not open to tourists, but you can have a poke around if you pose as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Attended by over 51,000 students annually, Krakow’s job dodgers deserve more attention than most. The uni’s first female student, named Nawojka, achieved enrolment 300 years before it was permitted by passing as one of the boys. Of the alumni none have achieved more than Nicolas Copernicus, a product of the class of 1492. Lauded as the founder of modern astronomy, you might know him for being the first to assert that the earth orbited the sun. Fortunately for him it took the church over 100 years to decide that agreeing with him merited being burnt at the stake. Other students of note include Jan Matejko, who would go on to paint many of Poland’s most revered works of art, and whose house on ul. Floriańska is today a museum. Karol Wojtyla, better known as Pope John Paul II studied in the philology department, as did the Nobel Laureates Wisława Szym- borska and Ivo Andrie. Not that all students proved so diligent; Stanisław Lem, who would go on to pen the sci-fi classic Solaris, also studied at Jagiellonian, but hated his medical studies so much he flunked his exams on purpose. From its early beginnings Jagiellonian’s students proved a bit of a handful - exempt from local justice and answerable only to the rector they frequently ran wild, the Hungarian students particularly prone to launching pogroms on the town’s Jewish population when that was in fashion. And if they sound bad then they’re not a patch on Faust and Twardowski, two mystical (and mythical) sorcerers who allegedly studied at Jagiellonian before gaining notoriety for entering pacts with the devil. Notable Alumni Born in Torun (northern PL) on February 19, 1473, Nicolaus Copernicus went on to become the man today known as the ‘Father of Modern Astronomy,’ but that certainly wasn’t his only talent. A true ‘Renaissance man’ (like Danny Devito in the 1994 film?), Copernicus was also an eminent mathematician, physi- cian, polyglot, classics scholar, translator, governor, diplomat, influential economist, and had a doctorate in canon law (no, not like Danny Devito). The youngest of four children, his father, a copper trader from Kraków, died when he was just 10, and in 1488 young Nicolaus was sent by his uncle, the canon at Frombork Cathedral, to the Cathedral school of Wloclawek where he received a first class humanist education. In 1488 Copernicus began his studies at University of Kraków (now Jagiel- lonian University), where he likely formed the basis of his own doctrine on the structure of the known universe, before leaving without a degree in 1495 to join his uncle in Warmia, later travelling to Italy. In 1509 Copernicus began publishing serious works, the first being Latin translations of the work of an ob- scure Greek poet, Theophylactus Simocattes. He soon began dedicating more and more time to his theories on astronomy, and in 1514 published a hand-written book, The Little Commentary, setting out his revolutionary theories of a heliocentric universe. In the same year he began writing De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium - a completely heretical work for its time that would eventually propel him to international infamy after his death. In 1514, however, his renown had already reached such heights that he was approached by the Pope to revise the Roman calendar, which was known to be out of phase with the Moon. De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium was eventually published in Nuremburg at the very end of Copernicus’ life in March 1543, almost 30 years after he started writing it. Although many before him had hinted at the unthinkable, that the Earth wasn’t the centre of the universe and orbited the sun, it was Nicolaus Coperni- cus who first stated it so publicly. Nicolaus Copernicus outlived the publication of his masterwork, which he himself had delayed, by just two months, dying at age 70 in Frombork – a town on the Baltic coast in northern Poland where he had settled at the end of his life. His final resting place was never recorded, but his remains were discovered and confirmed by DNA testing beneath Frombork Cathedral in 2005. The matter of Copernicus’ nationality has long been a point of contention, particularly between Germans and Poles. To ascribe him a nationality today is largely point- less, since people in his day identified with the region of their birth more than any ‘nation’ in the modern sense. In Copernicus’ case he was born in Prussian territory with a German cultural background that was subject to the Polish crown. In the tradition of his time, he published his work in Latin, though there is ample evidence that he spoke both German and Polish. In Kraków, a monu- ment to Copernicus can be found in the Planty near Collegium Novum (ul. Gołębia 24, B-3), and the building where he studied and attended lectures - Collegium Maius (ul. Jagiellońska 15, B-3) - is today a museum. Nicolaus Copernicus After the invasion of Poland, the Nazis set about culturally crippling the country by eliminating its intellectual elite. Kraków, Poland’s cultural capital, was an obvious target as the Nazis intended to Germanise the entire region. Jagiellonian University, the second oldest in Europe, was deemed to be of particular danger to Nazi plans of brainwashing the population and under the codename Sonderaktion Krakau, the Nazis orchestrated an at- tack against Jagiellonian’s academics. On November 6th, 1939, German authorities ordered all professors to attend a lecture on ‘German plans for Polish education’. When 144 professors gathered in lecture hall 66 of Col- legium Novum, as you can guess, no lecture took place and everyone in the building was arrested. The flimsy pretence was that the university was ‘operating without German consent’ and all 183 detainees were sent to Sachsenhausen or Dachau. Although initially spared the gas chambers, the dire and disease-ridden conditions of the concentration camps in winter were enough to claim the lives of 15 professors before international outcry pressured the Germans into releasing some of them. In February 1940, 101 professors over the age of 40 were released, though 5 died from poor health within days. The other 62 arrested became victims of the concentration camps. Upon returning to Kraków the survivors formed an underground resistance university in 1942, of which Karol Wojtyła - the future Pope John Paul II - was a stu- dent. Today a plaque in front of Collegium Novum (B-3, ul. Gołębia 24) commemorates those professors who died or disappeared and black flags are hung from all university buildings each year on November 6th. Sonderaktion Krakau Collegium Novum
  6. 6. 10 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com exit the motorway. Still, it’s one of the best stretches of road in the country until the bottleneck begins outside Kraków near Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incred- ibly frustrating with constant roadwork being done, one- way streets and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are incredibly high, whether you’ve realised your infraction or not. Kraków’s road network is not at all adequate for the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge. To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of the road, and the fact that they’re getting from point A to B twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is available under the large parking signs on the sidewalk and you’ll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, though parking machines have now replaced them in many areas. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Areas where parking is available are also marked on the map in the back of this guide. By Plane Kraków Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Some 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport is small, modern and easy to navigate, though amenities are limited. Consisting of two small terminals, the domestic terminal offers little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM (bankomat), whereas in the international terminal you’ll find currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a cafe, restaurant, tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00), and 24hr lockers (9zł). Getting through check-in and security is a snap, the only hassle of the airport being that you have to walk around its entire perimeter to get from one terminal to the other (great design job there, boys). The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town, and vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus runs regularly between the international and domestic terminals, picking passengers up directly outside the en- trance and taking them the short distance to the Kraków Airport train stop (coordinated with the train times). Train tickets are purchased from the conductor on board the train, and now cost 12 zł one way. If leaving from Kraków Głowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to the Airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from machines on the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains from the airport run frequently between 06:00 and 23:00 with a journey time of about 15-20mins. Public bus numbers 292 and 208 also depart from beside the International terminal entrance. This is a much cheaper option, though the journey to the train station takes about 35-40mins. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with departures at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55. The airport now also has its own trusted ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances. The advantages are a set price of 69zł from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time price hikes. Solid. By Bus Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda. krakow.pl. International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind the train station. Here you’ll find a snack bar, restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 6-14zł (depending on size) for 24 hours, how- ever are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time waiting room. Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make a right from the bus station into the train station, walk past the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to the left back into daylight (beware getting sucked into the shopping mall). Cut through the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the square in front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass into the Planty. Congrats, you’re in the Old Town. Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey. These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl which is now in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some des- tinations like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 19:45. By Car Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU directives and funding, the country’s clueless drivers are a trickier fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur- ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and passport at all times when driving. With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time being there’s only one major highway leading into Kraków via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. An 9zł toll is paid when you enter and again when you
  7. 7. 12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 13ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.comkrakow.inyourpocket.com Car Rental All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.] Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car; ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face). Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36 51, www.acecar.pl. Large selection of cars. Competitive prices. Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental price. Friendly, reliable service. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel. (+48) 509 58 88 60, www.dragonvip.pl. A wide choice of vehicles from small cars like the Peugeot 207, through mid-size like the Peugeot 308 to more exclusive vehicles. It is also possible to hire a car with a driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Kraków is free. GPS is also available free of charge with some cars. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Outside of these hours on request. Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62, www. hertz.com.pl. Also at Kraków Airport, open daily 07:00 - 24:00, tel. 12 285 50 84. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 12 639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. E u r o p c a r J - 4 , u l . Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific re- quirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request. J o k a D - 2 , u l . Z a ci s ze 7 (3 r d floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars in- cluding Audis, BMWs, Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Outside of these hours on request. Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02, www.avis.pl. Internation- ally trusted service offering a range a vehicles from the Nissan Micra to luxury mini- vans. Located here near the train station and also at the airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00). Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. By Train Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-1, Pl. Jana Nowaka - Jeziorańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp. pl. Kraków’s main railway station, ‘Dworzec Główny’, is conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town, making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient are the ongoing renovation works - part of a plan to transfer the railway station completely underground and transform it into a modern transportation hub incorporating the bus station as well. To date, all of the platforms have been modernised and are open, however work on other areas of the station, including one of the tunnels, are ongoing. Travellers should anticipate some minor confusion and inconvenience until all the work is finished, which from what we hear should take place in the last quarter of this year. Upon disembarking your train, you’ll be herded underground into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall. With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path alongside the tracks to the original main hall where you’ll find an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and left luggage lockers. Stepping out onto the square in front of the train station’s main hall you’ll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute walk to Rynek Główny (the market square) from the train sta- tion, arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived. Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the majority of Kraków’s hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right, make a left on Floriańska Street and you’re on the ‘path of kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards (przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for the shuttle service to Kraków Balice airport, which runs every 30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform 1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.] The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train, which basically determine the length of the journey, its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) and Express (EX) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you an assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer international connections and require the paid premium for seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which offer second class compartments free of reser- vation fees (though you may end up sitting in the aisle), and InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat reservation fees. With these budget options you pay less, but the journey will take longer and may try your good humour with the potential for overcrowding and being forced to sit of stand in the aisle. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:00. The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on to design Wrocław’s immaculate station ten years later - the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenella- tions whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms were added in the immediate years before and after. In spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which included the creation of a water tower, printing house and residential estate for railway workers - plans were drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit by only 300 metres. Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern- ment quarter located across the river in Dębniki. Even after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building, lovingly referred to by locals as ‘Szkieletor’. The years since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Kraków’s train station any peace either, however the changes have largely been met positively as the area received a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now represent Kraków’s main gateway into the city. Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment to create a brand new transportation hub connecting the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services underground, Kraków’s train station is set to receive a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger service points such as tourist information. The new transportation hub will be fully accessible to the disabled and is pencilled in for full completion no sooner than December 2013, though that date is highly optimistic. In the meantime, only one of the platform access tunnels is open (so expect some confusion) and the old station building appears to be headed towards redundancy and the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical building need not fret just yet. The local government is in talks to take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train company and convert it into a gallery. Here’s hoping it’s put to good use. Station History Wikipedia/Axe
  8. 8. 15BASICS June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.com 14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around, but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likeli- hood of any funny business. There is a taxi rank across the square from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the stairs from the platforms to find reliable Radio Taxi 919 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay 7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre. At night expect to pay up to 50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl. MegaTaxi,tel.(+48)1219625,www.megataxi.eu. Nova Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 69. Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.pl. Taxis 98 Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending by type;photos‹6,000zł,otherart‹16,000zł,forexample);ifthese conditions are met, the gallery curator then can (and should) provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document) describing the artwork’s price and when and where it was cre- ated. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value, you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind thatthisprocesswilllikelytake2-3months.Booksmustbeless than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in value in order to leave the country; otherwise, permission must be obtained from the NationalLibrary.Obviously,problemsarisewhenpurchasesare madeatbazaarsorfleamarketswherevendorscannotprovide thenecessarydocuments;ifthereisanydoubtaboutthevalue or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice. Electricity Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an electrical store if they can’t provide a converter themselves. Health & Emergency In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. Between June 1st and September 30th however, English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo. Internet Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland, with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the network often requires nothing more than a password, which you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below. Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397 80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Six PCs complete with ev- erything you need to keep in touch, plus printing and postal services. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Computer use 5zł/hr. NanduB-3, ul. Wiślna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www. nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5zł for first hour, 4zł per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning available. Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km). Longest River Kraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2011) Poland: 38,538,447 Warsaw: 1,708,491 Kraków: 759,137 Łódź: 728,892 Wrocław: 631,235 Poznań: 554,696 Gdańsk: 460,517 Katowice: 310,764 Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Facts & Figures The enterprising tourist should consider picking up the Kraków Tourist Card, a superb piece of plastic that allows you free travel on trams and buses, day and night. The best bit is free entry to over 30 Kraków museums - an impressive savings for the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail- able, priced at 60zł and 80zł respectively and they are valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol. Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com. Tourist Card Public Transport While Krakow has no un- derground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing less frequently after that. Get tickets from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines on board trams and buses do not accept bills, so it is important to have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If you’re going a longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options, or consider the Kraków Tourist Card (see Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines hand- ing out costly fines to those without valid or proper tickets. MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl. Use this website to find local bus schedules.
  9. 9. 17CULTURE & EVENTS June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.com 16 BASICS Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com Law & Order In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travel- lers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use the guarded car parks we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest go- ing to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens. Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to com- plete prats who’ve thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as ‘Entertain- ment Street’), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course). Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot. Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of May 17, 2013 based on €1 = 4.14zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 zł € 2.10 Snickers 1.59 zł € 0.38 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.90 zł € 5.53 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.72 0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.17 Loaf of white bread 2.79 zł € 0.67 20 Marlboros 13.60 zł € 3.29 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.41 zł € 1.31 Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 zł € 0.92 Market Values Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ’forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)! Basic Pronunciation: ’ą’ sounds like ’on’ in the French ’bon’ ’ę’ sounds like ’en’ as in the French ’bien’ ’ó’ is an open ’o’ sound like ’oo’ in ’boot’ ’c’ like the ’ts’ in ’bits’’ ’j’ like the ’y’ in ’yeah’ ’w’ is pronounced like the English ’v’ ’ł’ like the ’w’ in ’win’ ’ń’ like the ’ny’ in ’canyon’ ’cz’ and ’ć’ like the ’ch’ in ’beach’ ’dz’ like the ’ds’ in ’beds’ ’rz’ and ’ż’ like the ’su’ in ’treasure’ ’sz’ and ’ś’ like the ’sh’ in ’ship’ ’drz’ like the ’g’ in ’George’ ’r’ is always rolled Yes Tak (Tahk) No Nie (Nyeh) Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch) Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri) Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya) Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats) Please Proszę (Prosheh) Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh) Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham) My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…) I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee) Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.) Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!) Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.) Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!) Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko) Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…) Language Smarts Art Galleries Art Space C-3, ul. Św. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 607 68 70 85, www.asgallery.pl.QOpen 13:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. International Cultural Centre (Międzynarodowe Centrum Kultury)C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-2, ul. Sławkowska 14, tel. (+48) 12 429 15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriańska 18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www. galeriapauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Polonia House (Wspólnota Polska) C-3, Rynek Główny 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow. pl.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal- lery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Space Gallery B-2, ul. Św. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 432 29 20, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free. Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Cinemas ARS Cinema C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.ars.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 12-20zł. Cinema CityJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of- fice open 09:15 - 22:45. Tickets 16-32zł. Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 14-30zł. IMAX Kraków L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 18-30zł. Kijów.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, www.kijow.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 12-25zł. Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12 430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł. Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office open 45 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 12-22zł. Cultural Centres British Council C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
  10. 10. 18 CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji Miejskiej) C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who can tell you what’s going on and who can sell you tickets as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Information & Tickets Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel. (+48) 12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es.QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Note opening hours may be subject to change. Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek Główny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/ krakau.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open 11:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. Closed from July 29. JewishCommunityCentre(CentrumSpołeczności Żydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Judaica Foundation (Fundacja Judaica) D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł, group ticket 60zł, Tue free. Guided tours 100zł. Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda)H-3, ul. Olean- dry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.QBox office open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets depending on repertoire. Opera Stages Kraków Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow. pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Tickets 15-200zł. Philharmonic Stages Kraków Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska) B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www. filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed Mon. Note that the Philharmonic takes a summer break from June 22 to September 27. Tickets 15-50zł. Theatre Stages Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) C-3, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.pl. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and 2 hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the Old Theatre will be taking their annual summer break from July 9. Tickets 15-50zł. Y Teatr Nowy (New Theatre) E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 426 45 06, www.teatrnowy.com.pl. Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 2 hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the theatre takes its annual summer break starting June 24. Tickets 30-40zł. THE EXHIBIT THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE ALSO IN GDAŃSK FROM MAY 2ND
  11. 11. 20 CULTURE & EVENTS 21CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.comkrakow.inyourpocket.com 28.06 Friday Richie Kotzen C-2, Lizard King Club, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a. Born in 1970 in Reading, PA, Kotzen began learning to play the electric guitar at age 7, inspired by KISS. His later influences included Jimi Hendrix, SRV, Eddie Van Halen, and Jason Becker. He became famous in 1991 when he joined the rock band Poison; unfortunately, he got kicked out two years later for having an affair with the drummer’s fiancee. He released 19 solo albums and plenty of collaborations, and says he is most proud of Vertú, his 1999 project with Stanley Clarke and Lenny White. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 70zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 29.06 Saturday Sting Oświęcim, MOSiR Stadium, ul. Legionów 15, www. lifefestival.pl. No introduction necessary, naturally: the English musician has received 16 Grammies, 3 Brit Awards, a Golden Globe, an Emmy, and several Oscar nominations, and if you don’t know his name, you should weep silently in shame. He is currently on his Back to Bass Tour (has been since 2011), which began with the release of two compilation albums commemorating 25 years of his solo career. He played in Warsaw and Łódź last year, and now is back to rock the audience in Oświęcim. Q Concert starts at 16:30. Tickets 169-850zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 02.07 Tuesday Gov’t Mule G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4. Gov’t Mule, rocking out since 1994, have long been considered a staple act at American music festivals; they released not only many studio albums, but also a fair amount of live concert recordings. The group was founded by Warren Haynes, the longtime guitarist of The Allman Brothers Band, and Allen Woody, who unfortunately died in 2000. The band currently comprises Haynes, Matt Abts, Danny Louis, and Jorgen Carlsson. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). Concerts 09.06 Sunday Freddie Mercury Rock Opera D-2, Słowacki Theatre, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, www. royalart.com.pl. A tribute to the one and only Freddie Mercury, the flamboyant lead vocalist of Queen and one of the greatest rock singers of all time, this extraordinary show will encompass African and Oriental music of his childhood, opera and ballet etudes he was fascinated with, and Queen’s biggest hits like “We Are the Champions” and “Another One Bites the Dust”. There will be over one hundred international artists on stage, including dancers, actors, vocalists, and the Royal Symphony Orchestra. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120-250zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 10.06 Monday Papa Roach G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.metalmind. com.pl. The story of Papa Roach begins in 1993 Vacaville, CA, with Jacobby Shaddix and Dave Buck- ner meeting during a high school football game. Two additional group members later, they performed Jimi Hendrix’s song “Fire” for the school talent show (which they did not win). From these humble beginnings grew an internationally known rock band that has sold over 18 million album copies, been nominated for Gram- mies, and gone on countless tours. On this particular European tour, they’re promoting their newest album, The Connection, which came out last year. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-120zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl, Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert. 15.06 Saturday Bonobo G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.bonobomusic. com. Bonobo, aka Simon Green, is a British downtempo/ trip-hop/electronic musician and DJ. He came out with his first song, “Terrapin” in 1999, and released a fully self- produced album Animal Magic two years later, becoming one of the “new downtempo pioneers”. Three years after his last tour and the premiere of Black Sands, he’s back with a new album called The North Borders. The man himself calls Borders a natural evolution and continuation of the Sands music palette. The concert version is sure to have some delightful small tweaks from the original. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 115zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 25.06 Tuesday Portishead ArcelorMittal Tinning Hall, ul. Ujastek 1, www. sacrumprofanum.com. Formed in 1991 in Bristol (and named after the town 8 km to the west), this trip hop band has only put out three albums to date, and is cur- rently working on their fourth one, though - to quote Geoff Barrow - “this could mean another f*cking 10 years” before it’s released. They’re spending this year mostly on touring through Europe, including Poland. They’ll play in Kraków as part of the Sacrum Profanum Festival. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 135-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 13.06 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday 4th International Kraków Choir Festival ‘Cracovia Cantans’ Event takes place in various locations. Check description for more info., www.krakowchoirfesti- val.pl. This is the 4th edition of the Cracovia Cantans International Choir Festival. Though young, the festival is certainly drawing attention and gaining momentum. This year, over 30 choirs from all over Europe (Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Latvia, Norway, Poland, Russia, Slovakia, Sweden, UK) as well as Singapore will perform at various Kraków churches. Here’s the programme: June 13, Thursday: 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) June 14, Friday: 15:30 - 17:15 Competition singing, SS Peter & Paul’s Church, ul. Grodzka 54 (C-4) 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) 19:30 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) June 15, Saturday: 10:00 - 19:00 Competition singing, Concert Hall of Karłowicz Music School, Osiedle Centrum E2, Nowa Huta (O-4): 19:00 Light and Song Concert, St. Catherine Church, ul. Augustiańska 7 (D-7) 19:15 Concert, ul. Misjonarska 37 (G-1) 19:30 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) 21:15 Singing After Dark Concert, SS Peter & Paul’s Church, ul Grodzka 54 (C-4) June 16, Sunday: 19:45 Best of Choral Music Concert, Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2 (C-2) Q Admission free. Cracovia Cantans 2013 12.03 Tuesday - 30.06 Sunday The Human Body K-4, Fabryka Club, ul. Zabłocie 23, www.human- body.pl. Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre: exhibits featuring preserved human bodies have been increasingly popular in recent years. If you’re not too faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Human Body Exhibition will be showcasing over 200 thematically organized organs and bodies. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 50zł during the week, 60zł on weekends; dis- counts for students, seniors, children, and the disabled. Available at www.eventim.pl and the venue. The Human Body 14.06 Friday - 16.06 Sunday 5th International French Song Festival. Edith Piaf Grand Prix Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., tel. (+48) 12 421 28 23, www.festiwalpiosenkifrancuskiej.pl. This year’s 5th edition of the French Song Festival coincides with Edith Piaf’s 50th death anniversary. The festival begins on June 14th at 10:00 at Radio Kraków, al. Słowackiego 22 (I-1) with final auditions of 28th semi-finalists. Each candidate will present two French songs, including one by Edith Piaf. The list of laureates will be announced at 16:00 on the same day, followed by a concert entitled “French Songs Yesterday and Today” at 18:00. The festival will continue at the same location the following day: at 18:00 there will be a conference about the life of Piaf (with an introduction by Bernard Marchois, the owner of the Edith Piaf Museum in Paris) and a French song marathon with a Jacqueline Boyer concert at 19:00 and a Jean-Luc Bruno concert at 20:30. On the last day head to Jagiellonian University’s Auditorium Maximum (ul. Krupnicza 33, H-2) for the 5th French Song Festival Final Concert and awards ceremony at 18:00 - there will be special guests, performances by the laureates, and a display of exhibits from the Edith Piaf Museum. Q Admission free, prior reservation required. Email tppf@tppf.krakow.pl or call to reserve a pass; it will be available for pick-up at the Polish-French Friendship Association office (Al. Daszyńskiego 7, E-4. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun) from June 5. French Song Festival 06.06 Thursday Lajkonik Parade Event takes place in various locations. Check description for more info., www.mhk.pl. This year’s Lajkonik parade is the central part of a programme called “Roots of Cracow Traditions Enchanted in the City’s Legends” organised by the Historical Museum in Kraków. The parade will be accompanied by art workshops for kids (11:00-13:00 on May 28th and 29th in the Barbican (D-2), or the Krzysztofory Palace (Rynek Główny 35, C-3) in case of rain) and a historical reconstruction of a Tatar camp, including a battle reenactment (15:00-18:00 on June 8th in the Barbican). The Lajkonik and his procession are set to march along their traditional route, which has remained unchanged for years.Q Full schedule available at our website. Admission free. Lajkonik Parade Photo: Elżbieta Lang, MHK More events at krakow.inyourpocket.com
  12. 12. 22 CULTURE & EVENTS 23CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.comkrakow.inyourpocket.com 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Chopin Concerts at the Bonerowski Palace C-3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com. Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin, as performed by pianists Witold Wilczek, Weronika Krówka, Dobróchna Krówka, Kazuko Tsuji and others. Concerts are every day and a glass of wine is included in the price. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 55zł. Available at the reception desk of Bonerowski Palace (open 24hrs) and before the concert. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Classical, Opera, Film & Tango: The Best Concerts in Cracow C-3, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com. The Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstand- ing musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni. St Adalbert’s is said to be the oldest church in Krakow and, thanks to its baroque dome, provides unique acoustics. Concerts are every day. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 65zł. Available from 10:00 in front of the church. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Folk Show D-2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com. This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute performances taking place on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Enjoy traditional Polish food while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk danc- ers, and the legendary Lajkonik himself. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 85zł. Available at Jama Michalika everyday from 09:00. 01.06 Saturday - 31.07 Wednesday Klezmer Music tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts. com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local virtuosos on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays in Hotel Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 12, E-6) and Saturdays at the Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6). Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50zł. Available before the concerts. Live Music - Cracow Concerts Main Market Square EVERY DAY 7:00 PM Exhibitions 18.04 Thursday - 15.09 Sunday Collected Works of Jan Matejko D-3, Jan Matejko House, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Jan Matejko is one of those names you should probably know if you’re an art buff or interested in Polish culture or history, and should definitely know if you happen to be both. The great Polish painter is celebrating 120th death-day this year, and he should be pleased with the plethora of events the National Museum in Kraków is organising for the occasion, including this exhibition of all sorts of items the prolific artist liked to collect in his free time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł. 16.05 Thursday - 29.09 Sunday Economics in Art K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. This is MOCAK’s third exhibition in a series connecting art to other areas of life: the previous two were “Sport in Art” and “History in Art”. As it turns out, economics, and the recent world economic crisis, have been a huge inspiration for many contemporary artists - enough to make an exhibition with diverse works by well over thirty individuals (including Banksy!). The themes will be value, ethics,humanistaspectsofeconomics,andart’sdependence on market forces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Ghislain Dussart - Collages K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Photographer Ghis- lain Dussart’s muse throughout the years was Brigitte Bardot, whom he followed since the very early days of her career. He is responsible for some of the most iconic and recognisable shots of the 50s/60s sex symbol, but this exhibition is about her lesser known side - the collages feature somewhat BDSM photographs of Bardot (and Dussart’s other muses) taken on the French Riviera. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 29.09 Sunday Spokojna Tour Now - Opening of Re Gallery K-4,MuseumofContemporaryArt,ul.Lipowa4,tel.(+48)12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. MOCAK already has two galleries: AlphaandBeta,andnowthey’reopeningathird.ReGallerywillbea spaceforartstudents(bothPolishandinternational)toshowcase their talent and make an early mark on the art world. The gallery openingwillfeatureaconcertbystudentsoftheSpacialActivities Studio at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. The 26-strong orchestraledbyMirosławBałkawillperformapiecepreparedspe- cifically for the inauguration. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Tadeusz Rolke - Rolke Studio K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. For long years, Tateusz Rolke workedasareporterandfashionphotographer,contributingtomany PolishmagazinesbeforeheemigratedtoWestGermanyinthe70s. He created his famous series entitled “Fischmarkt” in Hamburg, and released three albums after his return to Poland. The pictures showcasedinthisexhibitionallowaglimpseintohisinteractionswith modelshephotographedprofessionally,setagainstthebackground of communist Poland. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance1hourbeforeclosing.Admission10/5zł,Tuefree. 01.06 Saturday - 02.06 Sunday 13th Małopolska Dragons Parade: Modern Tradition Event takes place in various location. Check de- scription for more info., www.paradasmokow.pl. If you know anything about Kraków, you know the legend of the Wawel dragon, a dreadful beast that devoured all the livestock and terrorised the city until a brave tailor fed it sulphur covered in sheepskin, causing the monster to drink and drink and drink until it burst into a million pieces. Though similar legends abound (exchange sulphur for lime and a tailor for a butcher, and you’ve got yourself the tale of the Brno dragon), Poles are very attached to their smok wawelski, which is why this festival caught on so well (hey, thirteen years means you’re doing something right!). This year’s theme is the culture of Małopolska (Lesser Poland) - age-old traditions as well as modern customs, the collision of old and new. The organisers, aka Groteska Theatre, wonder which elements of heritage will survive unaltered, which ones will change with time, and what new traditions are waiting to crop up. The main attraction will be a parade of hand-made dragons along the old-town streets, with a prize waiting for whichever is deemed the most beautiful, but there will be plenty of other events taking place over the course of two days. Here’s the preliminary programme: Outdoor Spectacle on the Vistula River 01.06., 22:00, bend of the river by Wawel Castle This light&sound spectacle will involve fireworks, music, water curtains, and huge floating and hovering dragons (up to 25 m in length and 15 m in height). The majestic creatures will be animated by Groteska Theatre actors situated on barges, and the whole affair promises to be quite a show. Dragon Parade 02.06., 12:00-14:30, ul. Grodzka toward the Main Square Enjoy the lively and colorful throng of dragons (knights and and cheer for your favorite one. Last year over thirty artistic creations animated by over one thousand children paraded the streets. Family Picnic 01.06., 10:00-21:30 02.06., 10:00-19:00, Vistula Boulevards near the Dragon’s Den (B-5) These two day-long events will include contests, shows and performances (last year a knights tournament was part of the programme), music and dance troupes, and outdoor family fun in general. Q Admission free. Dragons Parade Photo: A. Kaczmarz
  13. 13. 24 CULTURE & EVENTS 25CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.comkrakow.inyourpocket.com Festivals 16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday Kraków Photomonth Festival www.photomonth.com. This annual month-long event is one of the largest photography festivals in Europe, and now in its 11th year. Beginning in mid-May all of the city’s best galleries, cafes, museums, cultural centres, and even more unique locations like public parks, private flats and post-industrial spaces, will be filled with dozens of individual and collective photo exhibitions. Check the website for more, including the numerous artist meetings, workshops, film screenings and other events that typically take place during Photo Month. Q Full schedule available at www.photomonth. com. Admission free. 31.05 Friday - 16.06 Sunday 8th Garden Holiday Festival Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., www.swietoogrodow.pl. The lovely Jagiellonian University Botanical Gardens are teaming up with Malwa Contemporary Music Club and the Art Gardens Society to create a holiday aimed at garden- ing and nature lovers. The focus will be to emphasise the importance of gardens in our lives; during the seventeen days of the festival, participants will have the opportunity to visit gardens and parks that are usually closed to the public, see botanical collections, and attend lectures. Q Full schedule available at www.swietoogrodow.pl. Admission free. Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek RestaurantC-3, Wierzynek, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. These special events run throughout the year. They are recitals by gifted members of the Kraków Music Academy, many of whom are laureates from international piano contests. The programme is as varied as you like, approaching the great man’s work from a number of perspectives. A must for all fans. Q Concerts take place everyday at 19:00. Tickets 60/40zł, VIP 220zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) as well as at the Wierzynek reception desk (open 24hrs). Classical and Film Music at St. Peter & Paul’s Church C-4, St. Peter & Paul’s Church, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Paul’s. The event beginsat20.00everyMonday,TuesdayandThursdayand onecanexpecttohearamixtureofbaroque,romanceand film music all performed by the The Orchestra of the City of Cracow. Q Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert. Cracow Klezmer Concerts at the Isaac Synagogue E-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. An artistic attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of Ka- zimierz, these concerts are performed by the Tempero. Consisting of professional musicians, all graduates of the Cracow Music University, not only are they skilled at Klezmer and other Jewish music, they have a modern approach to chamber music. All taking place at the Isaac Synagogue, one of the best preserved and largest synagogues in the country, at present used by Hassidic Chabad Lubavith Community. QConcerts start at 18:00 on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu and Sun. Tickets 60/40zł. Avail- able at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert. Opera & Organ Concerts C-5, St. Giles Church, ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www. newculture.pl. This series of Opera and Organ concerts includes works by all the greats: Mozart, Handel and Bach amongst others. The Opera Delights Concerts at St Giles Church (at the foot of The Royal Castle) give you a true taste of the city as it should be savoured. All performed by gifted graduates from the Cracow University of Music and soloists from Cracow Opera House and Philharmonic, this is not only for opera lovers, but for everyone who likes good music. Q Concerts starts at 19:00 on Wed, Fri and Sat. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Informa- tion Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concerts. Live Music - New Culture 16 30.06 Sunday - 28.07 Sunday 18th Summer Jazz Festival at Piwnica Pod Baranami Concerts take place in various locations., www.cracjazz.com. Kraków spoils its jazz fans in July when fantastic concerts take place every day for an entire month during the Summer Jazz Festival in the city’s leg- endary cult venue Piwni- ca Pod Baranami (Rynek 27, B-3). First organised in 1996 to celebrate this important artistic and literary venue’s 40th an- niversary, in addition to daily concerts in Pod Baranami’s intimate cellar the festival has gradually expanded to include larger concerts by international stars in such venues as the Philharmonic, the Opera, the market square, Mały Rynek, and various other venues around town, This year’s inaugural concert will take place in the magnificent new Małopolska Art Garden (ul. Rajska 12, A-2) on July 1st. Today Pod Baranami’s Summer Jazz Festival is certainly the biggest jazz festival in Poland, and one of the biggest in Europe, with over 300 musicians descending on Kraków to perform some 60 concerts in front of 40,000 people. There probably isn’t a renowned Polish jazz musician (and there are many of those) who hasn’t performed in this festival at least twice, and international stars whose names you might recognise include Chick Corea, Stanley Clarke, Jean Luc Ponty, Bobby McFerrin, Nigel Kennedy, Branford Marsalis and more. In fact, this year legend- ary American jazz saxophonist Branford Marsalis is back to perform a special concert at Kino Kijów (al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3) on July 16th. This year’s other big headliner is seven-time Grammy award winning jazz vocalist Al Jarreau, who will perform at the Kraków Opera (ul. Lubicz 48, J-2) on July 28th. Both of those concerts are likely to sell-out quickly, so don’t dawdle on tickets. And if you’re in Kraków during July, don’t miss this chance to hear some great live music per- formed in a venue that has become symbolic of the city’s creative spirit. For full details of this year’s pro- gramme, visit the festival’s website (also in English), or drop by the venue at Rynek 27 on the corner of the market square.QConcerts at Piwnica Pod Baranami start at 21:00, Jazz Night starts at 18:00, remaining concerts start at 20:00. Tickets for daily concerts at Piwnica Pod Baranami and Solo Piano Weekend 20-40zł, Bradford Marsalis 120-180zł, Al Jarreau 150-250zł, inauguration and final concerts 40-70zł. Tickets available at City Information Centre, ul. św. Jana 2 (C-2); Piwnica Pod Baranami tickets available at the venue before the show. Summer Jazz Festival
  14. 14. 26 CULTURE & EVENTS 27CULTURE & EVENTS Kraków In Your Pocket June - July 2013krakow.inyourpocket.comkrakow.inyourpocket.com 09.06 Sunday Wieliczka Salt Festival Wieliczka, Saltworks Musem, ul. Zamkowa 8, tel. (+48) 12 278 32 66, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl. The Wieliczka Salt Mine is celebrating Salt Holiday with a full day of attrac- tions like craft presentations, children’s workshops, a photo exhibition (Colors of European Salt - 10:00-16:00 in the South Building), historical reenactments, family competi- tions, therapeutic breathing exercises, and a concert by a rock-ska-reggae band called Pancakes. Q Admission free. 26.06 Wednesday - 29.06 Saturday Life Festival Oświęcim 2013 Event takes place in various location. Check description for more info., www.lifefestival.pl. The music festival was created to demonstrate that there is more to the small city of Oświęcim than just the Auschwitz concentration camp, and to create more positive connections in the minds of visiting tour- ists. The festival’s message is peace, tolerance, and diversity, and its goal is combating racism and antisemitism. This year’s line-up of stars includes Sting, Ray Wilson, Brodka, and Red Hot Chili Pipers. Q Full schedule available at www.lifefestival. pl. Tickets 20-850zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00) and at the event. 28.06 Friday - 07.07 Sunday 23rd Jewish Culture Festival Eventtakesplaceinvariouslocations.Checkdescription for more info., www.jewishfestival.pl. Jewish culture is big in Kraków. Very big. And for the 23rd time, this festival will give participantstheopportunitytolearn,grow,andexperiencewhat Judaism and Semetic culture is all about, both traditionally and contemporarily.Therewillbeconcerts,filmscreenings,lectures, musicworkshops,andguidedtours.QuiteafewwillbeinEnglish (like the “Jewish Kraków” and “Synagogues and Prayer Houses of Kazimierz” tours), so make sure to check the website.QFull schedule available at www.jewishfestival.pl. Tickets 10-200zł. Festival pass 180-450zł. Workshops 5-50zł. Workshops pass 20-150zł. Available at www.eventim.pl, Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00), from June 22 at festival box office (ul.Jakuba,nexttoChederCafe,E-6.Open10:00-19:00.From June 29 open 08:00 - 17:00. July 6 open 08:00 - 13:00. July 7 open 11:00 - 13:00.) and at the door. 20.07 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday Ars Cameralis - Kraków 2013. 10 Kraków Chamber Opera Summer Festival E-5, Kraków Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. For the 10th time, the Kraków Chamber Opera is organising a month-long music festival.Thisyearyou’llhavetheopportunitytohearPergolesi’s La Serva Pardona and Livietta e Tracollo, the Chatskele, Chatskele! Yiddish music concert, and the religious hymn Stabat Mater. Location is the Kraków Chamber Opera and the start time is 19:00 unless otherwise indicated.QTickets 40-120zł.AvailableatKrakówChamberOperaboxoffice(open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire). Opera 24.06 Monday Giuseppe Verdi - Don Carlos D-2, Słowacki Theatre, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, www.royalart. com.pl. Based on the Friedrich Schiller play, Don Carlos details the story of Carlos, Prince of Asturias, the eldest son of King Philip II of Spain. At about four hours of music, it is Verdi’s longest play, and also the one with the the most versions; it was cut, modified, and embellished repeatedly in the twenty years following its initial premiere at the Paris Opera. QEvent startsat19:00.Tickets170-250zł.Availableatwww.ticketpro. pl and Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00). 08.06 Saturday - 05.07 Friday 17th Kraków Opera Summer Festival Event takes place in various locations. Check de- scription for more info., tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl. Kraków, as the culture capital of Poland, is home to all sorts of cultural endeavours meant to popularise music, film, poetry, and visual arts - and opera certainly is not forgotten among them. This is the seventeenth festival organised by the Kraków Opera, and it will kick off with a premiere of Verdi’s The Troubadour (fitting, since this year is the great com- poser’s 200th birthday). Performances will take place on June 8th, 9th, 11th, and 12th. Music lovers will also have the chance to experience Eugene Onegin with Mariusz Kwiecień in the leading role (the Polish baritone has sung at the Vienna State Opera, the Royal Opera House in London, and the Met, among others) - June 21st and 23rd, and two additional Verdi operas: Traviata (June 14th) with Edyta Piasecka-Durlak and Rigolleto (July 5th) with Katarzyna Oleś-Blacha and Leszek Skrla. Since you can’t have too much Verdi, his anniversary will also be commemorated with a Viva Verdi! concert performed at the Wawel Castle on June 25th. A castle does seem like the perfect setting for enjoying the higher arts, especially during such a lovely time of year - and so the courtyard will also become the stage for the Grand Pas...! ballet show (July 3rd), organised for the 4th time this year and featuring the crème de la crème of Polish soloists, and the Carl Orff scenic cantata Carmina Burana (premiere on June 28th, later performances on June 29th and 30th). The festival will also feature Christoph Willibald Gluck’s opera Orfeo and Euridice choreographed by Giorgio Madia (June 16th and 18th) and a guest performance by the Polish National Ballet, presenting a three-part ballet night entitled Obsessions (July 1st) - composed of Krzysztof Pastor’s ballet Mov- ing Rooms and a suite from his Kurt Weil as well as a version of Israeli choreographer Emanuel Gat’s Rite of Spring. Q Tickets 15-200zł. Available at Kraków Opera box office (open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance). Opera Summer Festival Kraków Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera Kameralna)E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The beginnings of the Kraków Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991 although it didn’t find a permanent place it could call home until 2000 during which time they appeared around Poland and the world as guest performers. They have been described by poorly translated critics as “probably the most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team in Poland which appreciates good tone of music, costume and vividness.” Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-120zł. 20.07 Saturday Giovanni Battista Pergolesi - La Serva Padrona La Serva Padrona, known in English as The Servant Turned Mistress, is Peroglesi’s most famous work. This is a humorous tale of an elderly bachelor terrorised by his female servant. When he decides to get married in hopes thathisfuturewifewillrestoreorderinthehouse,thecanny woman tricks him into marrying her, turning from servant into mistress. At only 45 minutes long, this opera buffa was originally performed as an intermezzo between the acts of a longer opera. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 50-100zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office. 21.07 Sunday & 28.07 Sunday Chatskele, Chatskele! Despite taking place at the Opera, this event is more of a musical evening presenting old Yiddish folk songs in new, original arrangements. The range of the repertoire will be vast, including love songs, pop songs, wedding songs, religious songs, lullabies and more. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 40-80zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office. 27.07 Saturday Giovanni Battista Pergolesi - Livietta e Tracollo Very fitting for a Polish audience, Livietta e Tracollo is also known as La finta Polacca, or The Fake Polish Woman. This is a baroque comedic opera filled with quirky characters and humorous situations. The plot revolves around the cunning Tracollo, who assumes the character of a poor Polish woman to rob the house of Livietta’s cousin; Livietta then decides to seek revenge. Q Event starts at 19:00. Ticket prices undecided at the moment. Kraków Chamber Opera Photo: Ryszard Kornecki Photo: Victor Korpusenko Photo: Paweł Zechenter, Kraków Chamber Opera Archive Co-financed with the funds of the Polish Minister of Culture and National Heritage G. Verdi THE TROUBADOUR 8, 9, 11, 12.06.2013 6:30 pm World Opera Arias – Viva Verdi! 25.06.2013 8:30 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill C. Orff CARMINA BURANA 28, 29, 30.06.2013 9:00 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill Grand Pas..! - ballet gala 3.07.2013 8:30 pm Arcaded Courtyard of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill programme includes: www.opera.krakow.pl 17 Krakow Opera Summer Festival 1 7 L e t n i F e s t i w a l O p e r y K r a k o w s k i e j 8 . 0 6 . - 5 . 0 7 . 2 0 1 3 th

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