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Finnsailer 34 Owners Manual


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This is the officiel owners manual of Finnsailer 34. Finnsailer is a quality yacht built by Fiskars in Finland. Later on, this modell was known as Nautical S340.

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Finnsailer 34 Owners Manual

  1. 1.           OWNERS´S   MANUAL   FOR   FINNSAILER  34  
  2. 2. OY FISKARS AB       FINNSAILER 34 Owner´s Manual Contents: Technical Specification The Factory Standard Standing Rigging Standard Running Rigging Extra Equipment Self-tacking Jib and Furling Genoa Arrangement Deck Fittings Sails Engine and Accessories Fuel System Steering Fresh water Toilet Cooker Zinc Electrical System Instruction for Upkeep of Glassfibre Reinforced Plastic Boat Hull 1. New Boat 2. Used Boat Repair of a Fibreglas Boat 1. Surface Cracks 2. Air Bubles 3. Fissures 4. Cavities 5. Entirely Blistered Bottom 6. General Scratching 7. General Commissioning the Boat 1. Keyes and Locks 2. Starting and Stopping Procedure Checkings to be made Weekley Launching and Docking Storage during Winter Piping Diagram Electrical Diagram
  3. 3. OY FISKARS AB TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION LOA 10,40 m Length incl. bowsprit 10,90 m LWL 8,36 m Beam, max. excl. rub. strake 3,45 m Draft 1,58 m Displacement 6700 kg Sail Areas: Main 24,0 m2 Jib 14,0 m2 Genoa (optional) 33,0 m2 Mizzen (optional) 7,3 m2 Fuel Tank Capacity 200 litres Fresh Water Tank 150 litres Engine: Perkins 4.108 38 kW (51 BHP) / 4000 rpm Indirect injection Bore 3.125 in (79,37 mm) Cubic capacity 107,4 in3 (1,76 litres) Number of cylinders: 4 Hurth mechanical gear box. Reduction 2,14:1 Propeller Shaft: Acid proof 35 mm, length 1220 mm Propeller: 2-blade bronze, right-handed 17”x11” Alternator: 55 A / 12 V Batteries: 1 starting battery 12 V / 100 Ah 1 for general use 12 V / 100 Ah Instruments: >Finnsailer 34 specification Rudder: A GPR rudder blade Rudder stock of acid proof steel Steering: Edson steering pedestal with brake THE FACTORY Oy Fiskars Ab Boatyard was the first yard in Finland and Scandinavia expressly built for volume production of glassfibre reinforced plastic boats. We have a long history of fruitful cooperation with Lloyd´s Register of Shipping, who have approved our works, materials and methods. All Fiskars boats are produced by hand laying up techniques in GRP moulds. This is the bes way to ensure that the finished products has the even, predicted glassfibre distribution and glass content the designers have intended and on which the Lloyd´s approval is based.
  5. 5. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 Sloop Standard Standing Rigging No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type 1 Mast 1 Length 12440 mm Selden 160/132 2 Spreader 2 Length 1000 mm Selden 3 Boom 1 Length 4350 mm Selden 128/90 4 Backstay 1 Length 13790 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 5 Upper shroud 2 Length 11700 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 6 Lower shroud back 2 Length 5440 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 7 Lower shroud fore 2 Length 5420 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 8 Inner forestay 1 Length 10620 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 9 Fore stay 1 Length 12790 mm ∅ 7x19 + rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55 10 Hallliard winch 2 Genoa and Main Barlow 16 Halliard 11 Reefing winch 1 Main Barlow 16 12 Cleat 7 165 m/m Selden 511-015
  7. 7. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 Sloop Standard Running Rigging No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type 1 Genoa Halliard 2 Shackle Selden 307 005 St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m Braided polyester rope 14 m ∅12 mm 2 Main Halliard 1 Shackle Selden 307 005 St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m Braided polyester rope 14 m ∅10 mm 3 Jib Halliard 1 Shackle Maritim 180308 Braided polyester rope 26 m ∅6 mm 4 Topping lift 1 Shackle Selden 307 001 St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m Braided polyester rope 14 m 12 mm 5 Self-tacking jip sheet 1 Braiden polyester rope 19 m ∅12 blue 1 block Lewmar 9117 1 block Lewmar 9127 6 Kicking strap 1 Braided polyester rope 10 m ∅10 mm 1 block Lewmar 9157 1 block Lewmar 9187 7 Fitting Shackle 5/16 Maritim 180308 Shackle 5/16 Maritim RKS-08 8 Genoa Sheet 2 Braided polyester rope 2x18 m ∅12 mm blue 9 Reefing Line 2 Braided polyester rope 10 m and 14 m ∅10 mm 10 Main Sheet 1 Braided polyester rope 28 m ∅10 mm 1 block Lewmar 9157 1 block Lewmar 9187
  9. 9. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 Sloop Extra Equipment No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type 1 Mizzen mast 1 Length 8300 mm Selden 121/92 2 Spreader 2 Length 850 mm Selden 3 Mizzen Boom 1 Length 2200 mm Selden 85/58 4 Upper shroud 2 Length 7970 mm ∅ 5x19 + rigging screw 3/8 Hasselfors 800 48 5 Lower shroud 2 Length 4020 mm ∅ 5x19 + rigging screw 3/8 Hasselfors 800 48 6 Topping shroud 1 Length 12230 mm ∅ 4-133 + rigging screw 5/16 Hasselfors 800 02 7 Backstay 1 Length 9000 mm ∅ 7x19 + 2x4190 ∅ 6x19 wire + 2 rigging screws 7/16 8 Mizzen topping lift 1 Shackle Selden 307-001 Braided polyester rope 17 m ∅6 mm 9 Mizzen Hallliard 1 Shackle Selden 307-005 St. wire ∅3x133 8,5 m Braided polyester rope 10 m ∅10 mm 10 Halliard winch 1 Mizzen Barlow 16 11 Kicking strap 1 Braided polyester rope 9 m ∅10 mm 1 block Lewmar 9157 1 block Lewmar 9187 12 Mizzen sheet 1 Braided polyester rope 15 m ∅10 mm 1 block Lewmar 9157 1 block Lewmar 9187 13 Flagg-staff Selden 14 Stay sail haillard 1 Shackle 1/4 R Maritim 6553 Braided polyester rope 18 m ∅10 mm
  10. 10. OY FISKARS AB No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type 15 Halliard winch 1 Stay sail Barlow 16 16 Stay sail sheet 1 Braided polyester rope 10m ∅12 mm 17 Furling genoa gear 1 Reefkit Rotostay type E Length 13,180 mm ∅7 mm 18 Genoa sheet 2 See standard running rigging 19 Spinnaker pole boom 1 Length 4000 mm Selden 20 Halliard winch 1 Spinnaker Barlow 16 21 Spinnaker halliard 1 Braided polyester rope 28 m ∅12 mm red Snap shackle Lewmar 5112 Block Lewmar 9117 22 Boom lift 1 Braided polyester rope 16 m ∅10 mm red Snap shackle Lewmar 5112 23 Spinnaker sheet 2 Braided polyester rope 16 m ∅12 mm red Snap shackle Lewmar 5101 24 Downhaul 1 Shcackle 5/16 Block Lewmar 5217 Braided polyeste rope 14 m ∅12 mm red Snap shackle Lewmar 5112
  11. 11. OY FISKARS AB
  12. 12. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 SELF-TACKING JIB AND FURLING GENOA ARRANGEMENT No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type 1 Block 5 Single with universal head Lewmar 9117 2 Block 1 Single and becket with universal head Lewmar 9127 3 Block 2 Single with universal head Lewmar 9217 4 Self-tacking jib sheet 1 Braided polyester rope 19 m ∅12 mm blue 5 Genoa sheet 2 Braided plyester rope 18 m ∅12 mm blue 6 Furling genoa gear 1 Reefkit Length 13.180 mm ∅7 mm Rotostay type E 7 Furling genoa adjustement 1 Braided polyester rope Rotostay ∅8 mm
  13. 13. OY FISKARS AB
  14. 14. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 No Part Pcs Material Product No / Type 1 Bow fitting 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.021-83M2 2 Bowsprit 1 Teak TuVe 356.011-78M2 3 chain plate 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1 4 Sheet fitting 3 Stainless steel Tuteka 5 Deck hatch 2 Al. frame+acryl GEBO 500x500 6 Slider 1 Al. Hack anodis FICO 1165 7 Jib sheet track + 1 Al silver anodis FICO 1169 – 1500 7 Track end stop 2 PVC FICO 1176 7 Sliding track stop 2 Al. black anodis FICO 1177 8 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.055-58T2 9 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1 10 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.055-58T2 11 Sheet track 2 Al. silver anodis Vaassen B-9006-2500 11 Track and stop 4 PVC Vaassen B-19006 12 Traveller 2 Al. silver anodis Vaassen A-5428 13 Windscreen wipers 3 Wiper 155021581 14 Boom seating 1 Teak TuVe 356.054-41MA4 15 Hand rail 1+1 Al. silver anodis Jokova 16 Scupper 2 Chrom. brass 17 Genoa sheet winch 2 Chrom. bronze Barlow 24 (Lewmar 40) 18 Cleat 2 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-21 19 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1 20 Aft pulpit 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.025-18Li3 21 Navigation light 1 Stainless steel Hella 22 Fore pulpit 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.024-85Ma2A 23 Navigation light 1+1 Stainless steel Hella 24 Fairlead 4 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-13B 25 Cleat 4 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-24B 26 Hatch fastener 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 27 Anchor box hinges 2 Chrom brass Nicro 1691 28 Fender rail PVC black (rail) 29 Life line Stailess / PVC 5/8 and 3/4 Niiniranta 30 Ventilator 5 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-30 31 Deck waste fitting (extra) 1 PVC PAR 38101-0000 32 Mast foot 1 Al. black anodis Selden 33 Signal horn 1 Chrome brass Fiam SIMO TP/NCL 12V 34 Filler screw 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-17 water 35 Ventilator 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-31 36 Tank ventilator 1 Chrome brass Maritim 14-04 37 Filler screw 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-17 fuel 38 Sheet winch (spin.) 2 Chrome brass Barlow 16 (Lewmar 8) 39 Cleat 2 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-21 40 Mast foot (mizzen) 1 Al. black anodis Selden 41 Bathing steps 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova 356.038-49T2 Teak steps
  15. 15. OY FISKARS AB
  16. 16. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 SAILS Finnsailer 34 is fitted with sails made by Neil Pryde. Self- tacking jib, which is standard, facilitates sailing and makes tacking pleasant. Mainsail is fitted with jiffy reefing and jiffy reef locks on boom make reefing easy and fast. Furling genoa and mizzen are optional. You should see to it that reefing an change of sails are made in time as too big sails lead to a heeling of the boat and unnecessary strain on the rig. When the sailing season is over, check the sails carefully, carry out repairs required as well as the general service of the sails.
  17. 17. OY FISKARS AB FINNSAILER 34 ENGINE AND ACCESSORIES Engine is the well-known Perkins 4.108 M diese engine, max. BHP 51 (38 kW)/4000 rpm with a Hurth mechanical gear box, reduction 2,14:1. Further particulars in the engine handbook. The engine is flexibly mounted. The shaft is of 30 mm dia SIS 2324 acid proof steel of high tensile strength. The bearing nut should be tightened when gland start to drip. Use tool provided. Do not over tighten as the will lead to overheating gland packing. It is actually better to allow a drop of water to enter every now and then than to tighten to complete dryness. A flexible, dry tube is used for the first part of the exhaust line. It is heat insulated, and runs to a standpipe silencer made of steel. The cooling water is injected into the silencer, and the outer part of the exhaust line is therefore of synthetic rubber. The skin fitting is of steel, with a stainless steel exterior ring. A strainer is fitted to the cooling water inlet seacock. It should be checked from time to time. See checking routine lists. (Drawing No. 356.017-68R1). Use the following greases in all the boats made by Oy Fiskars Ab Boatyard that are equipped with Perkins engine: Engine: Rotella SAE 10-30 W Coupling: Donax T 6 Hydraulic steering control Tellus 23 Prop shaft stuffin box: Retinax A All these oil qualities are made by Shell. If you use some other manufacturer´s oil, please notice that the corresponding qualities that are found in the comparison tables, should be used. FUEL SYSTEM Finnsailer 343 is fitted with a stainless steel fuel tank of 200 l, situated on starboard side in the cockpit. The filler fitting is on starboard side deck. OY FISKARS AB
  18. 18. The tank is fitted with an overflow tube and an inspection cover. This contains outlets for fuel gauge transmitter, heater etc. The fuel supply is 8 mm Aeroquip 2556-6 or similar approved type hose, with a CAV fuel filter, fitted the the SB side of the engine room bulkhead. The return pipe is of 8 mm nylon. The boat is also equipped with an electric blower the engine and battery room. Some countries require special valves and fuel supply tube materials, in which case the above-mentioned parts are changed. STEERING Finnsailer 34 is fitted with Edson steering pedestal. The steering is mechanical and the brake is in pedestal. The rudder angle is limited by stops fitted the radial drive wheel. The rudder blade is made of GRP and the rudderstock of acid proof steel. FRESHWATER The boat is equipped with a stainless steel water tank, capacity 150 litres. The tank is filled from the deck on SB side, through a deck screw marked “WATER”. Filling hose is 1 1/4” hose of approved type. A PAR 6950 pressure water pump as well a Raritan calorifier are fitted as standard. The calorifier is fitted below the cockpit on port side. TOILET A Lavac marine toilet is fitted as standard. The outlet tubes are fabric-reinforced plastics. Spherical valve is used as shut-off valve. A waste tank can be fitted as optional extra. COOKER A 3-flame liquid gas cooker with oven is standard equipment. The gas bottle has its own compartment in the anchor box. The gas pipes are made of copper and carefully installed. At each end of the copper pipe there is a flexible tube, which is joined with tube clamps to the copper pipe system. These tubes should be carefully checked each year and replaced at once should there be any cracks, or at least replaced every five years. You should also check the tightness of the clamps from time to time, since even a small leak will lead to an accumulation of poisonous and volatile gas in the bilge. The cooker is equipped with an automatic flame extinguisher. The gas bottle and its installation are in accordance with the requirements of the Finnish ordinances and official regulations.
  19. 19. OY FISKARS AB In case of the gas bottle and its installation are discordant with the ordinances of the future homeland of the boat, the owner will be responsible for the cost of the changes required. To adjust the flame in the oven, dismantle the bottom plate. On the left side at the rear you will find the adjustment socket. If the flame dies out, or the flame is small and unstable, excess air is supplied to the burner. Decrease air inlet. If the flame is yellow, too little air is supplied to the burner. Increase air inlet. ZINK In order to prevent corrosion of the underwater metal parts, the boat is fitted with a zinc. The zinc is fixes to the propeller nut. It depends on the local circumstances how long the zinc will last. It should always be checked and replace if required when the boat is taken out of water. 3 months should be the maximum period between checking’s. N. B. The zinc must never be painted!
  20. 20. OY FISKARS AB ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Finnsailer 34 is fitted with an electrical system based on a 55 A/12 V alternator. One 100 Ah battery is provided for consumption, and one 100 Ah battery for starting the engine. The main switch of the batteries is to the right of the main companionway. As the starter battery is separated from the other battery, it can only be used for starting the engine. The boat is equipped with an automatic alternator system charging the batteries while the engine is running. After the engine is started, the charging light should go out. The ampere meter shows the amount of charging current fed to the batteries. The emptier the batteries are, the farther on the +-side the ampere meter goes. When the batteries have been charge up, the meter returns to 0- position. When leaving the boat, the main switches must be turned off. Directions for care of the batteries: 1. Keep the batteries and the area around them clean and dry. 2. Remove the lids of the filling holes of the batteries and clean out the air openings. 3. Check the amount of accumulator fluid and add distelled water if needed. The level of the fluid should always be kept a little above the upper edge of the battery plates. Do not overfill the elements, since excess acid will run out of the air openings, and corrode the area around the batteries. Use only distilled water. Never use fire when checking the batteries, since the mixture of oxygen and hydrogen, which develops when the battery is charged, is very volatile. Never move accumulator fluid from on element to another. 4. Check the tightness of the cable clips at the poles of the batteries. 5. Grease the clips and the poles with Vaseline to avoid oxidizing. 6. Make certain that the batteries are secure on their stands and will not move when the boat gets out into the open sea. 7. The batteries are ventilated. Check the there are no loose odds and ends closing the air holes.
  21. 21. OY FISKARS AB INSTRUCTIONS FOR UPKEEP OF GLASSFIBRE FEINFORCED PALASTIC (GRP) BOAT HULL The boat owner’s care of his boat is essential for maintaining the quality and value of the boat. The following measures are of vital importance as regards the underwater part of the boat: 1. New Boat - washing - roughening or grease removal - removing of dust - painting with primer - painting with antifouling Instructions Wash the underwater part of the bottom with warm water water with washing powder in. Use brush. The best result is achieved by roughening with fine emery paper. (e.g. Esso Covar). In case of roughening, remove the dust with aceton. Use plastic gloves, and remember that aceton is dangerous for health and flammable. The next step is painting with primer in accordance with factory’s instructions. Primer is used to ensure that antifouling adheres properly to the oyt surface of the hull. Primers are usually chloric rubber basic. The last thing to do when primer has become dry, is painting with antifouling according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Antifouling is used to protect the bottom of the boat against harmful microorganisms and to prevent water from penetrating into the laminate. Use chloric rubber basic antifouling for hard surface, which is easy to polish. Do not use antifouling containing copper as this contributes to corrosion. Apply preferably two layers of antifouling. Observe the factory’s instructions of how long it will take to dry, and how soon the boat may be launched. See to it that the conditions correspond to those required in the instructions. Do not forget to treat also the parts under the support of the cradle. 2. Used Boat Take the boat on land 6 month after launching and wash the bottom with warm water and soft brush. For polishing, wash also the part of the hull, which is above the waterline.
  22. 22. OY FISKARS AB When the boat has become dry (in room temperature this takes one week, and outside in a dry place if temperature is under 10°C four weeks), brush off the peeling antifouling with hard brush. If required, paint the originals surface with primer. After that, paint with antifouling according to the instructions given above. N. B. When removing antifouling do not use lacquer or colour removers. If there are scratches or other damages on the surface of the hull, they must be repaired before further treatment. Follow the repairing instruction below. In countries with cold winters, it is preferable that the boat is stored on land. It should be taken out of the water sufficiently early to have enough time to dry up, or other wise the laminate may be damaged if there is water inside and it freezes. Make sure that there is no water in the bilges. Rainwater and especially soap water are harmful – oil and grease are not. Repair the damages on the inner surface in the same way as those on the outer surface. N. B. Remember to wash, wax and polish also the part of the bottom above the waterline. Car wax may be used. Renew waxing twice during a sailing period. When doing this, you can be sure that the exterior surface of your boat looks like new still after many years. REPAIR OF A FIBERGLASS BOAT 1. Surface Cracks Dry the crack and clean it carefully. Put masking tape on both sides of the crack. Mix about 4% of catalyst and later about 2-4% of accelerator in and appropriate quantity of gelcoat. These can be mixed in a glass jar, a tin dish or a pasteboard case. Fill the crack with gelcoat up to the tape, remove the tape and let cure. Grind with a file or smoothing plane-iron, make smooth with water sandpaper Mo. 400 and polish with Farecla paste. 2. Air Bubbles Even up the edges of the bubble and clean them carefully. Draw masking tape round the hole. Take suitable quantity of gelcoat and mix 10-15% of colour paste and catalyst and accelerator (as mentioned in para 1) with it. Fill the hole almost to the edges with this mixture, and let cure. Add one more layer of gelcoat to the tape level,
  23. 23. OY FISKARS AB remove the tapes and let cure. Make smooth and polish as in para 1. Very small bubbles may be directly filled with gelcoat and immediately covered with tape. When the gelcoat has stiffened, the tape can be removed and the surface can be ground. 3. Fissures Make the edges thinner from the inside of the boat, about 5 cm in both directions, and grind an area of some 5 cm in breadth. Take 4-5 pieces of fibreglass mat, the first one should be 5 cm wide, the following pieces should all overlap the preceding layer by 5 cm. Take a sufficient quantity of gelcoat, mix with catalysts as mentioned in para 1. Put the mat pieces on a cardboard or plywood and saturate them carefully with gelcoat, and hand-lay the pieces with a brush. In order to get a durable result, you should absolutely check that there is no air between the layers. When the gelcoat has cured, grind with coarse sandpaper and paint with topcoat. The outside of the fissures should be mended as described in para 1 or 2. Wash the brush immediately after use with acetone. 4. Cavities Make the edges thinner and grind an about 5-10 cm wide area from the inside. Grind the area where the mat is to be laid, too. Apply a mould-shaped plywood, plate, fibreglass or gelcoat sheet outside the cavity, and keep it tightly in place against the boat. Take a suitable quantity of gelcoat, mix with the catalysts as mentioned in para 1. Paint the hole and let dry. Take 4-5 pieces of the fibreglass mat, the first layer should overlap the edges of the hole by about 5 cm, and the following ones overlap the preceding layer by about 5 cm. Take a sufficient amount of gelcoat, mix with catalysts as mentioned in para 1. Saturate the pieces carefully with gelcoat on a cardboard or plywood sheet, put them on the cavity and hand-lay with a brush. When this has cured, grind with coarse sandpaper and paint with Nortop interior paint. The sheet that has been used as mould on the outside can be removed. Make smooth with a file grind with water sandpaper No. 400 and polish with Farecla paste.
  24. 24. OY FISKARS AB If the cavity is big you should not take more gelcoat at a time than can be used during 20 minutes, to avoid getting hardened gelcoat in the jar. 5. Entirely blistered bottom Before you start repairing, make sure that the temperatrure in the room where the work is done is at least +18°C, and that there is not dust, draught or moisture. The bottom of the boat must be absolutely dry. The repair is done as follows: - sanblasting or grinding - application of gelcoat - puttying - dust removal - spraying of polyurethane colour paint - Painting with antifouling Remove the old gelcoat by sandblasting or grinding. You can do this outdoors before the laminate has become dry. The best gelcoat is neopenthylglycol basic tixotropic air drying resin, which is normally hardened in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions. You can spray it apply with brush. When gelcoat is dry, putty with tixotropic polyester paste, which is hardened in the same manner as the gelcoat. Use rubber spatula. When grinding, use first rough grinding paper and finish with fine grinding paer (e.g. Norton No. 180). The best way of removing dust is to clean the hull carefully with vacuum cleaner. Do not forget to clean also the grinding dust from the floor so that it does not stick to the hull. Spray the urethane colour paint in accordance with the factory’s instructions, preferably by spraying 2-component colour paint. Pain the bottom with antifouling according to the instructions given above in connection with the treatment of a new boat.
  25. 25. OY FISKARS AB 6. General scratching Use the same methods as for entirely blistered bottom. Grind the surface and remove all dust carefully. Spray with urethane colour paint in accordance with instructions given above. 7. General About 20°C is a suitable temperature for fibreglass work. The room must not be moist. Wash the tools with acetone. Use goggles when you mix the stiffeners. The catalyst and accelerator must not be mixed together, it might start burning or explode. Al plastics need their own catalysts and accelerators recommended by the manufacturer. COMMISSIONING THE BOAT 1. Keys and Locks You will have noticed that the locks are of different Abloy types, with keys that fit all locks on board. A code number is given to you with the keys, which you have to use when ordering new keys. Normally though, the yard will have recorded your key codes, so there is still a chance that you can get a replacement key even if you loose your last one. For maximum safety, note your key code here: ................................. 2. Starting and Stopping Procedure To start the Perkins 4.108 M engine, follow the starting procedure outlined in the Perkins handbook. The following procedure is based on Perkins instructions: - Before starting, you will switch on the electrical main switch. - Check that the cooling water seacock is open. It is required by many insurance companies, and in fact also by prudence, that all seacocks are be shut when leaving the boat. Therefore, make it a matter routine always to check the seacock. In a new boat also check cooling water taps in engine block. - Check heat exchanger for cooling water level. Top up if needed. - Check engine oil level. Check gearbox oil level.
  26. 26. OY FISKARS AB - When you left the boat should have turned the stern gland grease press until resistance is felt. Check the resistance in press and turn if necessary. - Check fuel oil level on the gauge. The fuel level must not be close to zero, as this increases the risk of air locks in the fuel system. Make yourself familiar - with the way the fuel gauge works and what the readings mean in actual fuel reserve. This you can do when filling up the first time if you do it in known increments and not the corresponding readings. - Operate engine room blower for a minimum of 2 minutes. - Check oil pressure gauge to see that it gives a reading. - Check ampere meter for reading and the charging light should go out. - Check gear oil pressure warning light: should be off. - Water temperature reading should slowly rise, but reach normal level only after casting off. - Check that cooling water comes out with exhaust. When manoeuvring your Finnsailer 34 for the first time, remember that the propeller is turning clockwise and thus the stern will pull BB when you reverse. This can be used to your advantage, because it will help you to land in restricted places. If you approach with your BB side towards the quay, the final reverse will not only stop the boat, but also pull your stern in towards the quay. If you will leave the boat, you should turn the stern gland grease press until resistance is felt. This will stop the gland from leaking. Close seacocks and pump out bilge water, close main switch when leaving the boat.
  27. 27. OY FISKARS AB CHECKINGS TO BE MADE WEEKLY - Check the battery fluids - Check the running and the standing rigging - Check the general condition of sails - Check the navigation and mast lights - Check the windscreen wipers and the signal horn - Check the gas bottle - Check the seacocks - Check the bolts of the engine mount Further, it is advisable to check the following points: - Seawater filter - Bolts of the propeller shaft flange - Points mentioned in the handbooks of the engine and accessories LAUNCHING AND DOCKING The boat is usually launched or docked with the help of a crane. It should be remembered that especially a wet glassfibre boat is very slippery. The cables should be at least 20 m long to keep the angle of list suitably small. The cables should be attached to the fastening bollards of the boat in such a way as to keep them from sliding longitudinally when the boat is lifted. When the crane has tightened the cables, pieces of board should be placed under the cables at the edge of he deck to protect the fender rail from pressure damage. After this the hoisting may begin. The boat should be lifted in a horizontal position and both cables should have equal loads. The boat having been docked, its bottom should be washed and possible weeds and shells scraped off. Only wooden scrapers should be used, as harder ones may damage the glassfibre plastic surface. When the bottom has dried it should be checked thoroughly. If the boat has run aground or touched bottom, this may have left scratched which should be found out and repaired before the boat is launched again.
  28. 28. OY FISKARS AB After launching, check the alignment of the propeller shaft and the fastening of motor and rudder shaft while propeller shaft is rotating. STORAGE FURING THE WINTER The boat is shored in a straight upright position, either on its docki9ng sled or on specially made trestles. The important thing is to let the weight of the boat rest on the keel, not on the side of the boat. The bow should be a little elevated, to make the bile water collect in the stern. When the boat is well shored up, it should be emptied of loose equipment. Cushions and curtains should be taken away to dry. To clean the inside of the keel in its entire length you should take away a necessary amount of floor boards. At the same time you should empty the water pipes under the floor. The space should be left open for airing during the winter. The fuel tanks should be filled up completely to prevent water from condensing on the inside. The fresh-water tank should be emptied, as also the toilet bowl and pipes. The fresh-water pumps should be removed for cleaning and dry storage. If they are left in the boat, make certain that they contain no water. All bottom and side valves should be opened and it should be checked that all water leaves he pipe system. The deck fittings should be thinly greased with Vaseline to prevent them from oxidizing. The care and maintenance of the engine during winter is described in detail in the manufacturer’s directions for the use of the engine. These should be followed in order to keep the engine in good condition. The batteries should be removed and take to a battery service for the winter. If the boat is to be left in the open air for the winter, a roof of covering should be made for protection. It should also be ascertained that all the nooks and crannies of the boat are adequately ventilated. This will help to avoid the damaging effects of damp on the interior of the boat