Khorezm a bit out of the ordinary

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Khorezm - a bit out of the ordinary
Published by:
Center of Business and Tourism Development (CBTD)
R. Majidiy St. 14
220900 Khiva, Uzbekistan
T +998-62-375-2455
Authors:
Hannelore Bendsen, Shakhnoza Atodjonova, Dilmurod Bobojonov
Location and Date of Publication:
Khiva, Uzbekistan
February 2016
This tourism guide has been published with the support of the ‘Sustainable Economic
Development in Selected Regions of Uzbekistan‘ Programme implemented by Deutsche
Gesellscha$ für Interna'onale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH on behalf of the German Federal
Ministry for Economic Coopera'on and Development (BMZ).
GIZ supports partner organisa'ons in Uzbekistan in the development of sustainable tourism.
!" "!

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Table of Contents
Introduc on..................................................................................................................6
Acknowledgement........................................................................................................7
Ichon Qal’a, the Inner City of Khiva ...............................................................................8
Walk through Ichon Qal’a ............................................................................................ 8
Khorezmian Melons and Melon Fes'val in Khiva...................................................... 11
Discover Places of Interest outside the Ichon Qal’a Wall..............................................12
Nurullaboy Complex................................................................................................... 12
Qibla Toza Bog’, the Khan’s Summer Residence........................................................ 13
Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa .............................................................................. 14
Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex ................................................................................ 14
The Khiva Ice House ................................................................................................... 15
To’rt Shovvoz Complex............................................................................................... 15
Khorezm Ma’mun Academy....................................................................................... 16
The Oriental Bazaars of Khiva .................................................................................... 17
Tour to the Sights in the Outskirts of Ichon Qal’a...................................................... 18
Map of the Khiva Tour to Places of Interest outside of Ichon Qal’a.......................... 21
Tourist Sights in the Khorezm Region ..........................................................................22
The Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli................................................................................ 22
The Urgench Art Gallery............................................................................................. 23
Chodra Hovli, the Khan’s Summer Residence............................................................ 24
Kharrot, Touris'c Complex at Lake Eshon Rovot....................................................... 25
Qora Kol Touris'c Complex........................................................................................ 26
Qalajiq Qal’a and the Salt Water Lake Touris'c Complex ......................................... 27
Sulaymon Qal’a and a Visit to Ar'sts in Hazorasp..................................................... 28
Holy Sites in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan ...................................................29
Voyangan Bobo and Sheikh Savroniy Bobo Mausoleum ........................................... 29
Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum..................................................................................... 30
Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum ......................................................................................... 30
Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex ................................................................................... 31
Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum............................................................................... 32
Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex ...................................................................................... 33

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The Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan .................................................................34
Toprak Qal’a and Qizil Qal’a....................................................................................... 34
Ayaz Qal’a and Yurt Camp.......................................................................................... 35
Jonbos Qal’a and Yurt Camp ...................................................................................... 36
Gavur Qal’a................................................................................................................. 37
Janpik Qal’a ................................................................................................................ 37
Akshakhan Qal’a......................................................................................................... 38
Yakke Parsan Qal’a..................................................................................................... 38
Ecotourism in Khorezm ...............................................................................................39
Recrea'on Areas along the Amudarya River............................................................. 39
Ornithological Tour in Khorezm and Karakalpakstan ................................................ 40
The Agricultural System of Khorezm............................................................................42
Fruits of the Khorezm Region..................................................................................... 43
Cereals, Vegetables and Livestock of the Khorezm Region....................................... 44
Tour Sugges ons in Khorezm and South Karakalpakstan .............................................45
Stopover at the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli............................................................. 45
Day Excursions to Tourist Sights East of Khiva and to Qalajiq Salt Lake.................... 46
Ou'ngs to the Recrea'on Centres Qora Kol and Kharrot ......................................... 47
Half Day Excursion to Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan .................................. 48
The Big Qal’a Tour...................................................................................................... 49
Excursion to Lesser-known Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan ......................... 50
Day Excursion to the Holy Sites in Southern Karakalpakstan .................................... 51
Arts and Cra4s in Khiva and the Khorezm Region.........................................................52
Khiva Suzanni Centre in the Abdurasulboy Medressa............................................... 53
Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop....................................................................................... 54
Silk Carpet PaJerns........................................................................................... 55
PoJery Workshops in Khiva District .......................................................................... 56
PoJery Workshop of Master Rustam Toirov in Khiva ............................................... 57
PoJery Workshop in KaJabog’ near Yangiariq.......................................................... 58
Ceramic Workshop in Madyr near Xonqa.................................................................. 59
Woodcarving, an old Khorezmian Cra$..................................................................... 60
Puppet Making in Khiva ............................................................................................. 61
Furrier, an Ancient Profession in Khorezm ................................................................ 62
Tourism Infrastructure ................................................................................................63
Restaurants in Khiva within the Inner City Wall (Ichon Qal’a)................................... 63

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Restaurants in Khiva outside of Ichon Qal’a .............................................................. 64
Restaurants and Cafes in Urgench............................................................................. 65
Restaurants and Cafes in Al-Khorezmiy Street, Urgench........................................... 66
The Na'onal Cuisine of Khorezm............................................................................... 67
Accommoda'on Facili'es in Khiva ............................................................................ 68
Hotels in Khiva............................................................................................................ 70
Accommoda'on Facili'es in Urgench........................................................................ 71
Hotels, Restaurants and Recrea'on Centres in the Khorezm Region ....................... 72
Accommoda'on Facili'es in Nukus........................................................................... 73
Accommoda'on Facili'es in Southern Karakalpakstan............................................. 73
Transport Op'ons to and from Khiva ........................................................................ 74
Distances between Towns in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan...................... 75
Map of Tourist Sights in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan ............................. 76
Map Legend................................................................................................................ 77
Distances from main Villages to Tourist Sights in Khorezm....................................... 78
Distances from main Villages to Tourist Sights in Karakalpakstan ............................ 79
Professional Tour Guides in Khorezm........................................................................ 80
Professional Tour Guides in Karakalpakstan ............................................................. 83

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This brochure has been compiled as a result of a thorough tourism poten'al survey of Khorezm
and Southern Karakalpakstan. Several of the sights depicted here are not well-known and are not
included in tour programmes yet. Our inten'on is to make people aware of the diversity of the
touris'c offer of Khorezm and to provide hands on informa'on on the tourism infrastructure of
the region.
When you come to Khorezm, a walk through Ichon Qal’a, the centre of the famous Silk Road City
Khiva, is a must. You will catch the oriental flair of this fascina'ng town a lot beJer if you also
visit one of the bazaars, some of the cra$ workshops or stroll through the narrow streets of the
adjacent residen'al areas. You will learn much more about the town and its history if you hire an
experienced professional tour guide.
Thanks to the Regional Tourism Development Plan, signed by the President in 2013, the urban
images of Urgench and Khiva have undergone a positive change. Many historic monuments were
renovated, the tourism infrastructure improved and the framework conditions for private
entrepreneurs to set up tourism businesses eased.
Khiva has a lot more to offer than the historic monuments located in the inner city. There are
many interes'ng, lesser-known sights outside of the Ichon Qal’a wall. Some of them, which are in
easy reach of town, are described in this brochure. If you have a bit more 'me, you also find
excursion sugges'ons to interes'ng places in the outskirts of Khiva. You might consider an
ecotourism tour along the Amudarya River or the ornithological tour described in the brochure.
Khorezm has numerous holy sites, which are of great interest not only to worshipers. Many ruins
of ancient for'fica'ons da'ng back to pre-Chris'an 'mes are located in Southern Karakalpakstan
at the border of the Kyzylkum Desert and the fer'le Amudarya plains. The so-called Ellik Qal’a
(fi$y fortresses) District is definitely worth a visit. Several sugges'ons for excursions to the
fortresses have been made.
The results of a hotel and restaurant survey of the Khorezm Region will provide you with more
informa'on on the wide choice of catering and accommoda'on facili'es.
A map of all the tourist sights outside of Khiva and two distance tables, one between villages and
one from villages to tourist sights, will help you to plan and compose trips according to your
wishes. A few sugges'ons for interes'ng day trips star'ng from Khiva have been put together for
you to choose from.
We hope this brochure will make you aware of the hidden treasures of Khorezm and inspire you
to spend more 'me here to discover them.
Introduc on

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The Director of the Center of Business and Tourism Development (CBTD), Adilbek Rahimov,
facilitated the work on this guidebook.
The staff of the Hokimiyats of Hazorasp, Bog’ot, Yangiariq, Gurlan, Yangibozor and Shovot guided
us to the historic and ecotourist sites in their districts and provided important historic
background informa'on.
Special thanks to Helmut Bendsen, who helped with mapping the sites and formaNng this
guidebook. The GIZ consultant, Kathrin Grundmann, assisted in compiling and designing the
tourism map.
The CBTD in Khiva is a small non-governmental organisa'on (NGO) that assists tourism
entrepreneurs in Khorezm to improve their services and market the region as a tourism
des'na'on. The NGO could not have afforded the publica'on of this guidebook without financial
assistance of the Deutsche Gesellscha$ für Interna'onale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) on behalf of the
German Federal Ministry of Economic Coopera'on and Development (BMZ).
Hannelore Bendsen, GIZ Senior Tourism Expert, CBTD
Shakhnoza Atodjonova, GIZ Junior Tourism Expert, CBTD
Dilmurod Bobojonov, Research Fellow, Khiva Ichan-Kala State Reserve Museum
Khiva, February 2016
Acknowledgement

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Ichon Qal’a, the Inner City of Khiva
A$er crossing the endless Kyzylkum Desert, you
will be able to imagine the importance of this
oasis city during the 'mes of caravan trade. Apart
from its key role as a trade metropolis, it used to
be a religious, cultural and scien'fic centre. The
well-preserved old city, Ichon Qal’a, surrounded
by a for'fica'on wall, with its numerous
mosques, mausoleums, minarets and its four
gates has been listed by UNESCO as a World
Heritage Site (entrance fee 12US$ in season).
The tour of Ichon Qal’a will start at the West Gate
(Ota Darvoza, 19th century). It leads past the
Muhammad Amin Khan Medressa (19th
century), used as a hotel today, to the unfinished,
blue, stout minaret Kalta Minor also called Kok
Minor (1855). You will visit the khan’s residence,
the old citadel, Kuhna Ark (16th-19th century),
that includes a mosque, a recep'on hall, a harem,
a mint, an arsenal and a dungeon. At the back of
the throne room, you can climb the watch tower
from which you will have a stunning view of the
old city (extra fee 1.5US$).
Opposite Kuhna Ark, is the Muhammad Rakhim
Khan II Medressa (19th cent. AD), used un'l
1920. The khan was a famous poet, who wrote
under the pen name Feruz. The medressa
contains the Museum of Literature and History of
Khorezm. Across the main west-east road is the
oldest monument of Khiva the Sayid Allauddin
Mausoleum da'ng back to the Timurid period
(14th century). The holy site, beau'fully 'led
with relief majolica, is visited by many Muslims.
Sayid Allauddin, a rela've of prophet
Muhammad, preached the Islam in Khorezm.
Ota Darvoza, Kalta Minor Minaret
Pahlavon Mahmud Complex, Islom Hoja Minaret
Muhammad Rakhim Khan II Medressa
Sayid Allauddin Mausoleum, back view
Walk through Ichon Qal’a

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Another well-known Muslim pilgrimage site with
stunning blue 'ling is the Pahlavon Mahmud
Mausoleum (14th century). The Sufi, Pahlavon
Mahmud, was a famous wrestler, poet,
philosopher and furrier (extra entrance fee
2US$). Adjacent to the mausoleum there are the
tombs of several khans and their families.
Vis-a-vis you can see Sherg’ozi Khan Medressa
built from 1719 to 1726 by war prisoners from
Persia. Students from many Central Asian
countries studied here.
The next site is Juma Mosque with 213
beau'fully carved wooden columns and a
minaret (10th-18th cent. AD). Some of the
columns date back to the 10th century. When the
Iranians conquered Khiva in 1740, the mosque
was burned. Many columns were replaced by
dona'ons from private people.
Next to it, there is Islom Hoja Medressa and the
adjacent minaret (20th century), which is the
highest observa'on point in town (57m). The
view from the minaret is worth the effort of
climbing the dark, narrow staircase (fee 1.5US$).
The medressa houses the Museum of Applied
Arts that exhibits ancient Khorezmian handicra$s.
Islom Hoja, the vizier of the khan, was a reformer.
He implemented the introduc'on of the
telegraph as means of communica'on and built a
hospital that is s'll in use and the first New
Method School (1910). In this school Russian,
German, and French were taught. The photos and
the equipment of the first photographer and film
director in Central Asia, X. Devanov, are exhibited
here.
Near the Polvon Darvoza (East Gate), is the small
Oq Mosque (White Mosque) built in 1657.
Wall of the inner city, Ichon Qal’a
Plov cooking in a qozon on a loam oven
Juma Mosque
Tosh Hovli, reception

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The huge fortress-like palace, Tosh Hovli, built by Allakuli Khan (1830-1838) is one of Khiva’s
highlights. The palace had over 100 rooms, beau'fully decorated with blue 'les and painted
wooden ceilings. Daily, at 17:00, you can watch the performance “At the Khan’s Recep'on” free
of charge in the harem.
A$er admiring the historic monuments of Khiva, you should wander oﬀ the beaten track to get
an impression of people’s everyday life. About 2000 people live inside the inner wall. Walk
through its streets, enjoy the smell of the fresh bread baked in the tandir ovens, and peep into
people’s courtyards.
Stroll down to the colourful Dehqon bazaar located just at the outskirts of Polvon Darvoza. Try
some of the delicious nuts, fresh or dried fruit or the bakery products oﬀered there.
Old couple on a visit to Khiva
Children
Al-Khorezmiy StatueBlue Minaret, Kalta Minor at night
Traditional painted wooden ceiling
Typical Khiva majolica tiles

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Historically, Central Asia has been famous for the
great variety and excellent quality of its melons.
There is proof that already in the 2nd century BC
dried melon products were exported to China by
Silk Road traders. Melon seeds were found during
excava%on works near Toprak Qal’a, a fortress in
Southern Karakalpakstan, da%ng back to the 3rd
century AD.
Many melon types are grown in Uzbekistan.
Khorezm and Karakalpakstan are famous melon
growing regions. About forty different local
melon varie%es are on the markets. They can be
dis%nguished by the %me they reach maturity
(early, mid-season, late ripening species), by
shape, size, skin and pulp texture and last but not
least by their taste. Melons with good shelf life
are also marketed to other regions.
Don’t leave Uzbekistan without tas%ng some of
its delicious, sweet, juicy melons. On the melon
sec%on of the farmers market in Khiva you can
find many melons with exo%c names such as
Sariq Zamcha (yellow, early ripening), Kari Kiz
(grey green, late, wrinkly skin), Gurvak (grey
green), Bori Kalla (grey green), Mahalliy Beshak
(late ripening, good shelf life), Shoyi Qovun
(midseason ripening), Bol Qovun (yellow,
midseason), Alla Halma (late, dark green),
Ko’kcha (early ripening, green, net pa4ern).
A touris%c highlight is the “Gurvak Melon
Fes val” held in Khiva annually on the first
weekend of August. Farmers display their melons
and can win prizes for the best products. Singers
and dancers from the whole region entertain the
audience.
Other events (a puppet-, a dance- and a culture fes%val) are planed to be held regularly in Khiva.
Khorezmian Melons and Melon Fes val in Khiva
The juicy melons are ideal to quench your thirst
Melon art
Melon vendor performance
Melon dance

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The Nurullaboy Complex is situated a few
hundred meters north of the West Gate of Ichon
Qal’a. While the recep on palace is open to
visitors, the rest of the complex is under
renova%on. Nurullaboy Medressa is used as
dancing hall for wedding par%es.
To build an impressive complex for his son, Prince
Isfandiyor Khan, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II
bought a huge garden located just outside the
Ichon Qal’a wall from the wealthy ci%zen,
Nurullaboy. The Nurullaboy Hovlilari Complex,
built between 1884 and 1912, included a harem
and is surrounded by high walls.
A@er his father’s death, Isfandiyor Khan added a
palace for the recep%on of foreign guests. This
palace differs from the other royal residences in
Khiva because of its excep%onal building style and
its extravagant ornamenta%on. Oriental and
European architecture are intermixed. All seven
rooms are decorated differently. Colourful
Russian-style %led stoves, huge mirrors, oriental
mul%-coloured wooden ceilings adorned with
geometric or flower pa4erns, or half-moon and
star symbols are combined with angels drawn by
Russian ar%sts. The high doors, windows and the
parquet floors were made by German Mennonite
carpenters who lived nearby, in Oqmasjid village.
Next to the palace, there is a small local
recrea%on park where you can enjoy a cup of tea
in one of the teahouses. Adjacent to the park,
you will see parts of the outer city wall (Deshon
Qal’a) of Khiva.
Nurullaboy Complex
Nurullaboy Reception Palace
Nurullaboy Hovlilari entrance gate
Nurullaboy Palace and Harem
Discover Places of Interest outside the Ichon Qal’a Wall

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In 1897, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II built Qibla
Toza Bog’ as his summer residence. The palace
complex is located in the south-west of Khiva,
700m outside the Deshon Qal’a wall. It is
surrounded by a huge vegetable and fruit garden
that is s%ll in use. You enter the garden from the
east side through a gate in the loam brick wall.
Following the entrance path arched by vine
plants, you reach the water pond where there is
ample space for parking.
The palace complex covers an area of 120m x
50m. It consists of the two-storey residence itself,
a library, a harem, stables, a mill and other
service buildings grouped around three
courtyards. In the middle of the main courtyard,
there is a pool shaded by four Field Elm trees. The
recep%on palace, now used as restaurant, was
built in 1913 by Isfandiyor Khan. The high
windows and doorframes were made by German
Mennonite carpenters. The rooms, which are
used as a restaurant, are decorated with
ornamental wall stucco and have beau%fully
painted wooden ceilings.
If you want to enjoy a meal in this exclusive
environment, booking is required well in advance
Tel.: 62-375-4807 or 91-434-9798.
The lush vegeta%on provides a pleasant
microclimate on hot summer days.
In the gardens of the summer residence the new
hotel Qibla Tozabog Mexmonxonasi (37 rooms)
will open in April 2016.
For bookings contact Shahlo:
Tel.: 91-989-3162
e-mail: baltayevashoxla@gmail.com
Qibla Toza Bog’, the Khan’s Summer Residence
Qibla Toza Bog’ dining room
Qibla Toza Bog’ Palace
Qibla Toza Bog’ porch
Qibla Tozabog Hotel

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Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa is located near
the East Gate of Ichon Qal’a (Polvon Darvoza),
next to the bazaar. The medressa was built by the
rich merchant, Xusan Muhammadboy in 1905. He
was a follower of the Jadid movement, which
advocated the reform of the Muslim educa%on
system. He made great eﬀorts to introduce
European art and culture to Khiva. Muham-
madboy ac%vely supported educa%ng the youth
of all social groups. Despite of his status and
wealth, he fought against feudalism. Because of his beliefs, he was killed by Junaid Khan in 1918.
In 2013, the medressa was tastefully restored and is now used as a restaurant oﬀering tradi%onal
Khorezmian food (Tel. 91-421-3965).
Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa
Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex
In the 19th century, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II
erected the mausoleum for his grandfather Sayid
Mohi Royi Jahon, over the tomb of Sheikh
Chadirli Ishan . The complex consists of three
buildings. The main mausoleum is the burial site
of several famous Khiva khans of the Kungrad
dynasty, among them Eltuzar Khan, Muhammad
Amin Khan, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II, his
father, Sayid Muhammad Khan and his grandson,
Temurghazi Tura and others. The tombstones are
richly decorated with blue majolica. The graves of
other family members of the khan are in adjacent
buildings. Islom Hoja, the vizier of the khan, is
buried in the building to the right of the main
mausoleum.
There is no entrance fee, however, small
dona%ons for the maintenance of the complex
are appreciated. The mausoleum is open daily
from 9:00-15:00.
The graves of Feruz and his family members
Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex

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The Khiva Ice House
Several ice houses, Muzxona, were built during
Muhammad Amin Khan’s reign (1851-1855)
inside the walls of Deshon Qal’a, next to water
reservoirs. One of them is located south-west
outside of Ichon Qal’a, near the Bol Xauz
reservoir. It is a 7m high dome structure out of
burned bricks, 10m in diameter with 1.5m thick
walls. Its base goes 2m into the ground.
In winter, when the water in the reservoir froze,
ice was cut into large blocks and stored in the ice house. Layers of reeds were packed as isola%on
material between the ice blocks. In the hot season, the ice was used as drinking water.
The To'rt Shovvoz Complex
To’rt Shovvoz is a medium-size complex located
in easy walking distance from Ichon Qal’a, only
250m north-east of the Dehqon Bazaar. It
consists of a minaret, winter and summer
mosques, three medressas and two Koran
reci%ng centres, grouped around a water basin
shaded by big elm trees and a dome-shaped
water reserve.
In 1642, the complex was developed as a burial
ground. According to the legend, Isfandiyor
Khan I ordered to build a mausoleum to bury
three of his bravest soldiers. Hence, the site was
ini%ally called Uch Shovvoz (Three Eagles). When
Isfandiyor Khan I was buried at the same site, the
name changed into To’rt Shovvoz (Four Eagles). In
the 17th century, a 12 meter high minaret was
added to the site. In the course of history the
complex was extended and reconstructed several
%mes: in 1843, by Allakuli Khan, in 1874-75 by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II and by the trader
Xudoybergan Karvanbashi in 1874. One of the three medressas is named a@er the la4er.
Presently To’rt Shovvoz Complex is under reconstruc%on, but will be open to the public in 2016.
To’rt Shovvoz Medressa and Minaret
To’rt Shovvoz Water Reserve, Sardoba

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Khorezm Ma’mun Academy
The Great Silk Road stimulated the development
of trade, agriculture, religion, handicrafts as well
as sciences.
In Gurganch (now Kunya Urgench), the academy,
Dorul-hikma was established by the Khorezm
Shakh, Ali Ibn Ma’mun and operated from about
1004 till 1017. Research in the fields of
astronomy, mathematics, medicine, chemistry,
geography, mineralogy, history, philosophy,
literature and theology was undertaken there.
Together with the Plato Academy in Athens, and
the Bayt al-Hikma Academy in Baghdad, the
Ma’mun Academy was one of the most famous
scientific institutions in Central Asia. Famous
scholars and encyclopedists like Abu Raikhan al-
Beruniy, and Ibn Sina (Avicenna) were based
here, making important contributions to the
development of science.
Ten centuries passed, before in November 1997,
President Islam Karimov issued a decree to
rebuild the Ma’mun Academy in Khiva. In
November 2006, the academy celebrated its
1000th anniversary with the participation of great
scientists from all over the world.
Presently the academy houses a library with
20,000 historic books and more than 200 copies
of manuscripts. Many scientists and researchers from different disciplines work here. The
scholars from the academy cooperate with several scientific institutes in the world.
Archaeologists from the academy are carrying out excavation works in historical sites like
Khumbuz Tepa – one of the oldest pottery centres in Central Asia. Well-preserved earthenware,
dating back to 4th century BC were found there. Some of the artefacts are displayed in the
Museum of History and Science in the Ma’mun Academy which is open to the public. Professional
guided tours (in Uzbek, Russian or English language) can be arranged on request
(Tel. +998-97-211-2762 guide Lochin Abdukarimov).
The Museum of History and Science
Old handwritten book in the Ma’mun library

17
The Oriental Bazaars of Khiva
If you want to experience the everyday life of
people, a visit to one of the colourful oriental
bazaars is a must.
The Dehqon Bazaar, is located just outside
Polvon Darvoza, the East Gate of Ichon Qal’a.
Here a great variety of fresh and dried fruit,
vegetables and other food items are sold. There
are many small teahouses where you can try
tasty tradi%onal food.
The Mol Bazaar, livestock market, 1km south-
east of Polvon Darvoza, is something for early
risers. On Sundays, from 6:00 - 9:00 farmers from
the region come to deal in livestock, fodder and
fuel wood. On the Buyum Bazaar, 800m east of
the East Gate of Ichon Qal’a, household items,
electric equipment and clothes are sold. Around
the corner, on Eh yot Qismlari Bazaar, you can
ﬁnd all kinds of new and well used spare parts.
Cattle Bazaar - The deal is made by hand shake!A big choice of spare parts is available
Visit the Cattle Bazaar Try one of the traditional dishes sold on the bazaar
Khorezm bread, Dehqon Bazaar
Dehqon Bazaar

18
Tour to the Sights in the Outskirts of Ichon Qal’a
There are many tourist sights outside of the walls of Ichon Qal’a
worth visi%ng. The following tour can be done either by tour bus,
by taxi, by bicycle, or if you are ﬁt even on foot. You will not only
get to know some of the historic sites, but also have a good chance
to experience local life in Khiva.
The tour starts at Ota Darvoza (West Gate). From there, follow the
Ichon Qal’a wall up to Bog’cha Darvoza (North Gate).
The ﬁrst stop is the Khorezm Ma’mun Academy, the science
centre of Khiva. The historic museum is worth a visit (more
informa%on on page 16).
Pass Qo’sha Darvoza, one of the gates of the outer wall of Deshon
Qal’a. Adjacent to it, you can see the old pharmacy of Feruz (now
used as a hotel).
Do not miss to enter the Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex built in
1884 by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II. You will see the beau%fully
%led graves of Feruz, of his grandfather, his father and his
grandson in the main complex, and the grave of his vizier, Islom
Hoja, in the adjacent mausoleum (more informa%on on page 14).
You will pass the Avaz O’tar House (presently closed). Avaz O’tar
(1884-1919) was a socio-cri%cal na%onal poet of Khorezm who
propagated the importance of educa%on.
You will then reach the Gandimyon Gate (reconstructed in 1970),
which is the entrance to the new bazaar. In the nearby village
Gandimyon, the treaty incorpora%ng the Khiva Khanate as
protectorate into the Russian Empire was signed between the khan
and the Russian General Kaufmann.
Ota Darvoza, West Gate
Bog’cha Darvoza
Qo’sha Darvoza
Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon
Tomb of Feruz’s grandson
Avaz O’tar HouseGandimyon Darvoza

19
Qo’y Darvoza (Sheep Gate) is another main gate of the outer wall
of Deshon Qal’a.
Now, head for the Dehqon Bazaar. Apart from experiencing the
oriental flair of the bustling market life, you can see the Abdol
Bobo Complex, a holy site built in 19th century.
Next to it is the Polvon Qori Medressa with its minaret (built in
1905). Further on you will see the Niyoz Sholikorboy Complex
(built in 1830-1840), consis%ng of a minaret and a mosque that is
s%ll in opera%on.
At the entrance of the bazaar, you can relax in the restaurant
established in the Xusan Muxammadboy Medressa (more
informa%on on page 14).
A very special site is the To'rt Shovvoz Complex (built in 1885),
considered to be a famous holy site. The complex consists of a
minaret, winter and summer mosques and two Koran recita%on
centres (qorixona) grouped around a water basin with a water
reservoir. The complex is presently being renovated (see page 15).
The next site is the hospital, built in 1912 by Isfandiyor Khan
(under the supervision of his vizier, Islom Hoja), in honour of
Alexey, the son of Tsar Nicolay II who suffered from haemophilia.
Many specialised physicians worked there. Vaccina%ons and
treatment was free of charge. The hospital is s%ll in opera%on. On
the other side of the road, there is the post office, also built under
the reign of Isfandiyor Khan in 1912-1913.
A part of the restored Deshon Qal’a wall (outer city wall) can be
seen between the stadium and the Khiva Recrea%on Park.
You can also visit the Shoximardon cemetery, where the founder
of the Khiva Khanate, Elbars Khan (1511-1525), is buried.
To'rt Shovvoz Medressa
Qo’y Darvoza
Polvon Qori Medressa
Post Office
Hospital
Deshon Qal’a WallShoximardon Cemetery
Street vendor

20
To see old technology s%ll in use, visit the Khiva Ceramic Factory.
Here, you can watch the en%re produc%on process of the
stoneware typical for the Khorezm region. In the museum, you can
admire some of the special pieces produced here. In the adjacent
Ark Teahouse you can take a rest and buy refreshments or a small
meal.
On your way to Qibla Toza Bog’, one of the summer residences of
the khan, you can see Ibrohim Hoja Medressa located in what is
now the premises of a school.
Qibla Toza Bog’, the summer palace of Muhammad Rakhim
Khan II, was built in 1897 and extended 1913. The palace,
surrounded by high walls, consists of a two-storey residence, a
library, a harem, stables, a mill and other service buildings grouped
around three courtyards. It is surrounded by a huge vegetable and
fruit garden. The palace is used as a restaurant (booking is
needed). For more informa%on, see page 13.
On your way back to Ota Darvoza, you will pass the small minaret,
Chilla Avliyo.
The huge Nurullaboy Complex consis%ng of five courtyards, a
mosque, a medressa, a harem and stables is presently under
reconstruc%on. The Nurullaboy Palace, built in 1912 by Isfandiyor
Khan for the recep%on of foreign guests, can be visited. The palace
differs from the other royal residences in Khiva due to its
excep%onal mixture of western and oriental building styles and its
extravagant ornamenta%on (for more informa%on see page 12).
Finish off the tour at the star%ng point at Ota Darvoza (West Gate).
Khiva Ceramics
Ibrohim Hoja Medressa
Ceramic factory
Nurullaboy Complex Gate Qibla Toza Bog’, stucco walls
Qibla Toza Bog’
Dining in royal atmosphere
Nurullaboy Palace

21
Map of the Khiva Tour to Places of Interest outside of Ichon Qal’a
1
2
3
4
13
14
5
6
7
8
910
11
12
19
15
16
17
18
20
200m
Touristic site Distance from starting point
1 West Gate 0.0 km
2 North Gate 0.7 km
3 Khorezm Ma’mun Academy 1.1 km
4 Qo’sha Darvoza 1.2 km
5 Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex 1.9 km
6 Avaz O’tar House 2.3 km
7 Gandimyon Darvoza 2.6 km
8 Qo’y Darvoza 2.9 km
9 Abdol Bobo Complex 3.5 km
10 Polvon Qori Medressa 3.6 km
11 Sayid Niyoz Sholikorboy Mosque 3.8 km
12 To’rt Shovvoz Medressa 4.5 km
13 Hospital 5.8 km
14 Post Office 5.8 km
15 Shoximardon Cemetery 8.7 km
16 Ceramic Factory 10.2 km
17 Ibrohim Hoja Medressa 11.4 km
18 Qibla Toza Bog’ 12.0 km
19 Chilla Avliyo Minaret 13.3 km
20 Nurullaboy Complex 14.5 km
1. West Gate 15.2 km
Deshon Qal’a Wall
Shoximardon Mausoleum
Entrance Nurullaboy Complex

22
Ulli Hovli is a great place for day excursions for
individuals and groups. The rural community is
one of the few tradi onal Turkmen villages in
Khorezm. The unique tradi onal buildings and
the ac vi es offered make the site quite
a"rac ve.
Ulli Hovli is an old Turkmen for fica on located
24km north-east of Khiva. It is surrounded by
high walls and has been renovated tastefully by
its tenant, Rajobov Davlatnazar. Most rooms in
the side wings are open towards the yard. Some
are equipped with comfortable tea beds
(tapchans) and are decorated with old household
and farm items such as saddles, mugs and mill
stones. Three tandir loam ovens give clients a
chance to observe the process of bread baking. In
the courtyard three yurts have been erected for
dining. In one of the side tracts, modern toilet
facili es have been built. The owner keeps three
camels and two horses. Folklore shows as well as
cock and ram fights can be organised on site. A
horse drawn cart is available for trips through the
village. You can get a glance of the typical big
Turkmen dogs kept there. Next to Ulli Hovli, the
owner established a teahouse with many in and
outdoor si4ng facili es. The refreshing breeze
along the canal makes your stay very pleasant on
hot summer days.
Booking is required. For more informa on
contact:
Rajobov Davlatnazar
Tel.: +998-95-602-2002
+998-91-434-9279
The Turkmen Fortress Ulli Hovli
Tourist Sights in the Khorezm Region
Cock fight
Ulli Hovli teahouse
Entrance to Ulli Hovli
Traditional ram fight

23
The Urgench Art Gallery
The museum is located in Uzbekistan Street 21,
opposite the main bazaar of Urgench. A few
shady si4ng facili es in the garden invite people
to take a rest. Some of the twelve beau fully
carved wooden columns of the porch are more
than 100 years old. The solid wooden doors and
the portal, which is decorated with blue majolica,
give the building its special appearance.
The Art Gallery has been established in 1983 and
holds many exhibits of classic and modern Khorezm and Uzbek art. 347 oil pain ngs, 253 graphics
and 40 sculptures reﬂect the everyday life and the landscape of Khorezm or feature scenes from
legends of the region. The work of renown painters, such as Chingiz Ahmarov, Rahim Ahmedov,
Nemat Kuzybaev, Yusuf Yelizarov, Valen n Fadeev, Evgeniy Melnikov, Alisher Mirzaev, Akmal
Nur, Vladimir Burkmakin and Khorezm ar sts such as Bah yor Ruzmetov, Atahan Allabergenov,
Tura Kuryayov, Davron Yuldashev can be found there.
For people interested in contemporary Uzbek art, the gallery
is well worth a visit (Tel. director 62-228-4690). Except on
Mondays, the gallery is open from 10:00-17:00. Guided tours
can be arranged ad hoc or booked in advance. The Russian
speaking guide, Shirin, an ar st herself, is well familiar with
the collec on and can provide detailed background
informa on (Tel. 95-606-3397).
Urgench, Art Gallery, works of Axmarov Chingiz
Touching the moon
Letter from grandsonRuzmetov Baxtiyor, AmudaryaSumalak

24
Chodra Hovli, the Khan’s Summer Residence
Restaurant building
Chodra Hovli garden
Chodra Hovli is located 11km east of Khiva along
the Yangiariq road. The four storeyed, tower like,
adobe building is 30m high. It was erected in the
14th century and reconstructed in 1871 by
Muhammad Rakhim Khan II as a summer
residence. Its design is quite unusual. It has a
rela vely small base of 16m x 8m. In the
basement, there are two storerooms and the
stables. The other floors were used as residen al
area and consist of small rooms, which are open
towards the garden. The khan used to rest here
and even stayed overnight to escape the heat of
the summer. Chodra Hovli is surrounded by a
huge, lush green fruit and vegetable garden that
is s ll in use. The irregular stairs are a bit
uncomfortable to climb, but the view from the
upper floor is rewarding.
It is planned to turn the building in front of the
summer residence into a restaurant.
Behind Chodra Hovli, there is an extensive
network of water bodies used for fish farming.
These lakes are classified by Birdlife Interna onal
as IBA (Important Bird Area) and are a highlight
for bird lovers.
Chodra Hovli
Entrance gate

25
Chodra HovliKharrot, Touris'c Complex at Lake Eshon Rovot
In 2015, a new recrea on area was established 6.4 km south of Khiva. The site is located across
the Drujba drainage canal, in the Karakum Desert
at the shore of Lake Eshon Rovot.
The complex consists of an indoor and a rooFop
restaurant from where you can overlook the lake
and enjoy the breeze. You also have the oppor-
tunity to dine in one of the two tradi onal yurts
or on the tapchan near the boat landing. In the
a"ached hotel up to 12 guests can be accommo-
dated in six comfortable, air condi oned double
rooms. All have a private bathroom and TV.
The ac vity offer includes fishing, boa ng or
water scooter driving on the lake, nature walks
along the lakeshore or in the adjacent sand dunes
as well as a visit to the animal park on the
property.
The recrea on area is ideal for day excursions
from Khiva or weekend ou ngs for the whole
family. The nature lover will be able to experi-
ence the unique flora and fauna of the desert and
the wetland around Lake Eshon Rovot.
For further informa on and bookings:
Tel.: +998-95-620-8555, +998-91-278-1494
+998-93-755-0770
E-mail: eshonrovot@gmail.com
Kharrot, dining yurt
Eshon Kol recreation area
Dine in Kharrot’s rooftop restaurant
Bukhara Deer in the zoo enclosure Hotel room

26
Qora Kol Touris'c Complex
Baby camel at Qora Kol Touristic Complex
At Lake Qora Kol you can go boating or fishing
The elegant Qora Kol restaurant
The touris c complex is located 7km south of
Khiva in the Karakum Desert, at the shore of Lake
Qora Kol. AFer crossing the drainage canal, turn
right and you will see the fancy entrance gate in
the middle of the dunes welcoming you to the
recrea on area.
Having passed the gate of the for ﬁca on-like
loam wall of the site, a camel greets you at the
entrance. The fancy touris c complex consists of
a tall 34m high minaret, a recep on building, a
stylish restaurant, three tradi onal dining yurts,
and 12 modern yurt shaped hotel rooms each
with an a"ached bathroom. You can hire a
motorboat or a water scooter for an ou ng on
the lake. From the top of the minaret you have a
spectacular view of the desert and the lake. You
even can spot the skyline of Khiva. Watching the
sunset from up there is stunning.
For bookings contact:
Karakul.2015@mail.ru
Tel.: +998-91-277-7787
Entrance gate to the recreation site
Sunset at Qora Kol Touristic Complex

27
Qalajiq Qal’a is located in the Bogo’t area on the
shore of a small saline lake. It is one of the oldest
fortresses in Khorezm da ng back to the 4th cent.
BC, originally built to protect the fer le arable
land from invasions of nomadic tribes. Despite its
high walls (14m high and 2.5m in width), the
fortress was conquered by the Arabs and by
Genghis Khan. The en re complex originally
consisted of a medressa, a mosque, a
mausoleum, a caravanserai and living quarters.
From the top of the fortress, you can overlook
the Karakum Desert, the farmland with its
irriga on systems and the recrea on centre at
the lake.
The very salty water of the lake and the
surrounding sand dunes are famous for their
healing proper es. During the hot season, people
come here to seek relief from backache,
rheuma sm, muscle tensions, stress symptoms
and other diseases. AFer a bath in the saline
water, pa ents are buried into hot sand,
some mes up to their neck. AFer a successful
medical applica on, the en re family relaxes in
the catering facili es along the lake. It is possible
to prepare your own meal on one of the loam
ovens, rented out by local service providers,
including cooking utensils and si4ng facili es.
Alterna vely you can order a meal from one of
the teahouses. Besides the historic, medical and
culinary oﬀer, guests can go horseback riding
around the lake or hire a horse cart for a short
trip. You also have the op on to spend the night
in the new hotel at the lake or in one of the
colourful yurt accommoda on facili es. Each yurt
sec on has its own bathroom. For bookings:
E-mail: sobirmirob_tour@mail.ru
Tel. +998-95-606-5885, +998-94-677-4445, +998-90-971-5586, +998-90-947-7177
Qalajiq Qal’a and the Salt Water Lake Touris'c Complex
Hot sand has amazing healing properties
Qalajiq Qal’a and saline lake
Horse cart ride
Taste traditional food in the Recreation Centre

28
Sulaymon Qal’a and a Visit to Ar'sts in Hazorasp
One of the oldest fortresses of ancient Khorezm is
Sulaymon Qal’a, located in the town of Hazorasp,
65km east of Khiva along the road to Bukhara.
The history of Hazorasp can be traced back to the
6th century BC. The fortress was built in the 17th
century and restored in the 19th century. During
that me, the prince of the Khiva Khanate resided
in Hazorasp. The old city wall is s ll par ally
intact. Un l today, the historic city is used as a
residen al area with 130 houses located inside its
walls. The Qal’a is bordered by a lake, called
Oydin Kol (bright lake) that is fed by a fresh water
spring. When the fortress was a"acked by
enemies, the khan could escape through an
underwater tunnel. From the top of the fortress,
the scien sts of the khan used to make
astronomical observa ons. Being located at a
small lake and the fact that people s ll live inside
the fortress walls dis nguishes it from many
other ancient for ﬁca ons, making it a special
site.
Another interes ng place worth visi ng in
Hazorasp is the Shohpir complex. It consists of a
mausoleum, a cemetery and a mosque that are
s ll in use.
Further, its unique arts and craFs are interes ng
to visitors. Tandir makers, po"ers, a well-known
sculptor and a painter have their workshops close
to Sulaymon Qal’a. Guests are welcome to watch
the ar sts at work. The local teahouses serve
good food. However, the toilet facili es are basic.
For bookings contact:
Atamuratov Davron
Tel. +998-90-578-1172
Painter, Davron Atamuratov
Tandir maker opposite Sulaymon Qal’a
Sulaymon Qal’a
Sculptor, B. RuzmetovPotter, M. Matyoqubov

29
Holy Sites in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan
Un l the 8th century AD, people in Khorezm were fire worshipers (Zoroastrians). When the Arabs
conquered the region, the Islam became state religion. In the 14th century, several famous Koran
teachers came as missioners to Khorezm, from other Islamic countries. Un l today, their burial
sites are holy places visited by many worshipers. Non-Muslims are also welcome to visit these
holy places. It is beneficial to come with a guide who can interpret the words of the resident
Imam for you. The holy sites have a special atmosphere. Please dress decently and respect the
silence and devo on of other worshipers.
The Voyangan Bobo Complex is located 11km north-west of Shovot village, about 5km from the
Turkmen border (GPS coordinates 41° 44’ 10”North, 60° 10’ 30”East). It consists of two
mausoleums (of Voyangan Bobo and Hazra Eshon Bobo) surrounded by a huge cemetery. The
complex spreads over an area of 40ha and has been erected on the site of the old Voyangan
fortress, built in 200 BC. In front of the mausoleum, you find a holy stone. People believe that,
when children suffer from herpes, they can be cured by applying yogurt onto their affected lips,
which has been in contact with the holy stone.
From the mausoleum, you can overlook the en re cemetery including a small saline lake. On the
other side of the road, there is the mausoleum of Sheikh Savroniy Bobo, an Islamic leader.
Voyangan Bobo and Sheikh Savroniy Bobo Mausoleum
Sheikh Savrony Bobo Mausoleum
Voyangan Bobo MausoleumHoly stone
Cemetery and saline lake

30
The Yusuf Hamadoni complex is located in the
Shovot area.
The mausoleum of Yusuf and of Sayid Hamadoni,
originally built in the 12th century AD, was
reconstructed in 1994. It is a famous local Muslim
pilgrimage site. It is believed that Yusuf was holy
and able to heal people with mental problems.
Un l today, mentally ill pa ents are brought here
to be cured from their disease. They stay for 40
days in one of the guesthouses of the complex.
The Khorezm Tourism Development Plan
includes the renova on of the Yusuf Hamadoni
Mausoleum. Apart from the improvement of the
access road, the sanita on facili es are meant to
be upgraded. To provide favourable condi ons
for local and foreign worshipers, shops,
restaurant facili es, and ar san workshops are to
be built on the site.
Before going to the Yusuf Hamadoni complex,
worshipers usually visit Jilovdor Bobo
Mausoleum, located across the road from Yusuf
Hamadoni complex, where the four loyal servants
of the saint are buried. All four stayed single and
dedicated their en re life serving their master.
While Jilovdor was the charioteer of Yusuf
Hamadoni, Dasturhonchi worked as a
housekeeper, Chiroqchi was in charge of the light
and Ochuvchi was said to be able to change
people’s fate.
Entrance gate to Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum
Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum
Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum
Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum

31
The complex is located in Qiyot village in Khiva
district and consists of Sheikh Mavlon Bobo’s
mausoleum, a summer mosque, and a minaret.
Sheikh Mavlon Bobo was an Islamic teacher in the
17th century AD. The complex was built by
Muhammad Rakhim Khan II from 1889 to 1891,
and became a famous pilgrimage site. The
mausoleum of two famous Uzbek poets,
Muhammad Rizo Agakhiy and Munis Khorezmiy
built in 2004, is located a few hundred meters
away on the cemetery.
Munis Khorezmiy was born in 1778 in Qiyot
village, and died in 1829. He was a poet,
historian, scien0st, translator, calligrapher,
famous teacher and a mirob (water manager). He
got his educa0on in one of the medressas in
Khiva and made his ﬁrst poetry collec0on, named
Devoni Munis, in 1804. Khorezmiy was asked by
the khan to write a history book of the khanate. It
is a very valuable source of the poli0cal history of
the Khiva Khanate in the 19th century. The book
includes descrip0ons of the rela0onships
between the khanate and neighbouring states.
Another publica0on explains the agricultural
system of the oasis.
Muhammad Rizo Agakhiy, born in 1809 in Qiyot
village, was a poet, historian, translator and
worked as a mirob (water manager). He was ﬂuent in Arabic, Persian, and Turkish. Agakhiy wrote
six history books, a poetry collec0on and translated 20 books from Persian into Arabic.
Muhammad Rakhim Khan II valued his advice and had his words engraved in stone plates placed
in the hall, where he considered peoples’ pe00ons. One of Agakhiy’s famous works is his “Advice
to a Patron” (qasidai nasixat), addressed to Feruz, in which he summarises the character traits of
a good ruler: just, kind, merciful, friendly, well-educated, a moral and spiritual role model.
Further, he advised the khan to have a pure soul, keep away from any indolence, cruelty,
greediness, debauchery, betray, and intrigue. Agakhiy died in 1874.
Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex
Mausoleum of the poets Agakhiy and Munis
Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex
Summer Mosque

32
The mosque, mausoleum, and cemetery complex
is located 4.5km south-west of Yangiariq village
along the road to Oqmasjid. Sheikh Muhtor’s
grave is a famous pilgrimage site. The mosque
includes the only preserved Sufi medita0on
chamber (xonaqoh) of Khorezm. Following the
Sufi believes, the Mausoleum was a plain,
whitewashed building. Tiles were added during
renova0on works later.
In the 14th century, Sheikh Muhtor Valiy came to
Khorezm to preach the Islam. He se@led down in
the Khiva area and resided in a mosque (Sheikh
Muhtor Ota Mosque, now Bir Gumbaz
Restaurant). On a nearby mound, where now the
Oq Sheikh Bobo watch tower is located, he taught
his followers. He was buried in the Yangiariq area.
His mausoleum was rebuilt by the vizier of Khiva,
Yoqub Mextar, in the 19th century.
There are many stories about the supernatural
powers of Sheikh Muhtor Valiy. He was known to
be kind to all creatures. Wild animals have been
reported to come to the mausoleum.
The site has a very special flair. The local Imam
will offer to pray with you and provide
informa0on about Sheikh Muhtor’s life.
Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum
Entrance to the Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum
Worshipers visiting the holy site
Summer mosque tiled with majolica
Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum in 2008 Cemetery around the Mausoleum

33
The mausoleum of Sultan Uvays Bobo is one of
the most famous holy sites in Central Asia even
though, is not certain that Sultan Uvays is buried
here, in Yemen or in Syria. From Beruniy follow
the Nukus road for 35km. The turn-off to the site
is well signposted. The mausoleum is located at
the southern foothills of the Uvays Bobo Range,
3km from the main road. For worshipers who
visit the site, there is a parking lot, framed by
many stalls with souvenirs and religious objects,
as well as slaughtering and cooking facili0es for
the pilgrims.
Sultan Uvays, a famous Islamic preacher, came
from Yemen, where he was a camel shepherd
who got spiritually enlightened. He was a
contemporary of Prophet Muhammad and is
regarded as the founder of the Islamic Sufi
movement. He made a pilgrimage to Medina
once, but did not have the opportunity to meet
Prophet Muhammad in person. However, years
later, Prophet Muhammad sent two of his
followers to Yemen, to give his cloak to Sultan
Uvays. Sultan Uvays died in AD 656.
The first mausoleum erected on this site dates
back to the 9th century. The present building,
constructed in the 19th century, is surrounded by
a huge mazar, a cemetery. During Soviet 0mes, it
had been closed by the authori0es. Today, the
site is open again and the courtyard at the centre
of the mausoleum, invites worshipers to sit and
eat aHer visi0ng the holy place. On top of a
nearby hill, marks in a bolder are said to be the
knee print of the saint. Pilgrims bring offerings to
this site hoping for their wishes to be fulfilled.
Par0cularly on Fridays, the site is well visited.
Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex
Sultan Uvays cemetery
Worshipers in the courtyard of the mausoleum
Sultan Uvays Bobo Mausoleum

34
From Khiva an excursion to the ancient fortresses in neighbouring Karakalpakstan is a very
attractive programme. Most of the 2000-year-old fortresses are located at the edge of the Sultan
Uvays Mountain Range. Built by the people who lived in the fertile Amudarya plains most
fortresses once served as defence structures from the invasions of nomadic tribes, who lived in the
Kyzylkum Desert with their herds.
Toprak Qal’a and Qizil Qal’a
Qizil Qal’a Toprak Qal’a
Toprak Qal’a Yurt Restaurant
The Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan
From Khiva you will travel 100km passing Urgench, Beruniy and Bo’ston to reach
Toprak Qal’a. The rectangular settlement, surrounded by high fortification walls, dates back to
the 2nd and 3rd century AD. The city included a palace, a temple, a residential area and gardens.
The palace was built on a 9m high platform. During excavation works, men size sculptures and
images of the rulers of the city and of goddesses on the walls of several halls were discovered. An
entrance fee of 3,000UZS is charged per person.
At the entrance, a yurt restaurant has opened in 2013. For bookings contact the manager Oybek
Jumaboyev Tel. +998-93-201-0000, e-mail: djanbaskala@mail.ru.
You can pass the nearby Qizil Qal’a, a small but well-preserved fortress that might have been a
double-storey army base with an archers’ gallery.
Toprak Qal’a Yurt Restaurant

35
Ayaz Qal’a is one of the most spectacular
fortresses of the region. It consists of three
fortress complexes. The view from Ayaz Qal’a
onto the Kyzylkum Desert, the small lake Ayaz,
the Sultan Uvays Range and the oasis is stunning.
The Ayaz Qal’a yurt camp, famous for its
tradi0onal dishes, is an ideal spot to make a lunch
break or stay overnight.
A tarred road leads to the yurt camp on top of
the plateau. The camp has been set up in 1998.
With financial support of UNESCO a loam winter
building was erected, so that the camp is open
throughout the year. Besides the building, it
consists of 12 yurts which can accommodate up
to 50 people on cosy, na0onal, co@on filled
kurpacha ma@resses. In winter, only three yurts,
equipped with ovens, remain used. Groups of up
to 250 people can be catered for simultaneously.
There are sanita0on facili0es with four toilets,
three showers and two sinks. To secure the water
supply in the camp, three huge water storage
tanks have been installed. However, water has to
be used with care, as it is very precious in the
desert.
From the yurt camp, guests can go on hikes to the
Qal’as, or down to the small lake Ayaz, which
unfortunately has shrunk considerably in the last
years, leaving a salt crust at the edges. In
addi0on, camel rides are offered.
It is advisable to book accommoda0on or meals a
few days in advance. For bookings contact the
manager Ra’no: Tel.: +998-94-644-8699 or the
office in To’rtkol +998-61-532-4361.
Ayaz Qal’a and Yurt Camp
Yurts at Ayaz Qal’a Camp
Yurt Camp with Ayaz Qal’a in the background
Sleep on kurpacha mattresses like the nomads
Riding camel at Ayaz Qal’a Yurt Camp

36
Jonbos Qal’a and Yurt Camp
Jonbos Qal’a is located 55km north-east of
To’rtkol. A tarred road passes near the fortress,
however, the last 1200m up to the fortress and
further to the yurt camp are in bad condi0on.
Jonbos Qal’a was most probably built as early as
the 4th century BC. The double walls of the
fortress are 20m high and enclose a rectangular
area of 200m x 170m. From the top of the two-
storeyed galleries, archers defended the fortress.
Through the loopholes in the for0fica0on walls,
they could fire their arrows onto the invaders.
The unique building style can be traced back to
the architecture of the Assyrians and
Achaemenids and was not used anywhere else in
ancient Khorezm. Inside the fortress, residen0al
buildings were erected on both sides of the
central road. About 1000 people could have been
housed in 150-200 rooms. At the end of the main
street, the city's main fire temple was excavated.
In the outskirts of Jonbos Qal’a, a necropolis (burial site) was found. Burial giHs (terraco@a
statue@es, ceramics, jewellery) discovered here date back to the 1st century AD. Some scien0sts
believe that the town must have been captured by nomadic tribes in the 1st century AD. Another
theory suggests that the dwellers abandoned the city when the Amudarya changed its course,
flooding parts of the site.
Jonbos Qal’a yurt camp is located 500m uphill from the Qal’a. It offers rus0c accommoda0on on
kurpacha ma@resses in six tradi0onal yurts. Modern sanita0on facili0es are available. Delicious
tradi0onal dishes are served in the dining yurt. Boa0ng or fishing on the nearby small lake can be
arranged. For bookings contact the manager Oybek Jumaboyev +998-93-201-0000,
e-mail: djanbaskala@mail.ru
Jonbos Qal’a Yurt Camp
Jonbos Qal’a

37
Passing the pontoon from the Khorezm side of
the Amudarya, at Jumurtou village, Gavur Qal’a
majes0cally looms on the east bank of the mighty
river. The fortress dates back to the Early An0que
period (4th cent. BC - 1st cent. AD). It was
abandoned in 4th cent. AD. The northern and
western walls of the fortress are well-preserved.
The southern part has been destroyed by the
meandering river. The fortress is trapezoidal in
shape and had double walls with archers’ galleries. The walls were strengthened by several
towers. The fortress guarded and controlled the important Amudarya trade route and deemed to
be a Zoroastrian place of worship at the same 0me. From the fortress, you can see a watch tower
upstream on the escarpment.
Gavur Qal’a
A Russian archaeologist considered Janpik Qal’a
to be the most beau0ful fortress in Khorezm. The
fortress is located on the banks of the Amudarya
River at the south-western edge of the Sultan
Uvays Mountains. You can access Janpik Qal’a via
a sand road from Gavur Qal’a (7km) or from the
Nukus-Beruniy main road. The fortress was
erected on the ruins of an old se@lement da0ng
back to the 4th cent. AD. The fortress itself was
built in 9th-10th century AD. Janpik Qal’a is irregularly shaped and protected by a double wall
with an archers’ gallery on the second ﬂoor. Five of the towers located 70m apart are s0ll visible.
From 10th - 14th century, Janpik Qal’a was a town with residential quarters. In the 13th century,
the Mongols conquered and destroyed it. After the invaders left, it was rebuilt and became a centre
of craft production and trade. In different quarters of the fortress craft workshops for glass makers,
weavers, blacksmiths, potters and stone carvers had been established. Artefacts indicate that the
town had a sophisticated water supply and drainage system. After Amir Timur conquered and
destroyed the Khorezm State in 1388, the fortress got abandoned.
Many of the items found during archaeological excava0ons in Janpik Qal’a are exhibited in the
Savitskiy Museum in Nukus. These artefacts include ceramics, glassware, kniPng hooks for the
produc0on of ﬁshing nets, stoneware, bronze ornaments, jewellery, bone beads, and cowry shell
necklaces. The silver and copper coins found on site indicate that Janpik Qal’a must have been an
important port and trading post on the Amudarya.
Janpik Qal’a

38
Akshakhan Qal’a is located in the midst of driHing
sand dunes, 16.9km north of Beruniy. With an
area of 42ha, it was one of the largest for0fied
se@lements in Ancient Khorezm. The fortress
dates back to the 2nd century BC and was used
un0l the 1st century AD. It consisted of two
for0fied enclosures. Traces of the monumental
buildings (mausoleum, temple and palace) are
s0ll visible. The remains of the fortress are almost
en0rely covered with sand. Excava0on works by
Karakalpak and interna0onal archaeologists are
s0ll ongoing. The discovery of a portrait gallery
(120 portraits) on the walls of the fortress was a
sensa0on and proof for the existence of the semi-
legendary dynasty of the Khorezm Shakhs. Since
the persons depicted on the wall pain0ngs are
wearing crown shaped headdresses and gold
necklaces archaeologists consider that they must
have been powerful rulers. The red ears shown in some of the portraits are presumably a symbol
of power and fer0lity. Artefacts found on site are kept at the Karakalpak Research Ins0tute of
Humani0es in Nukus.
Day Trip to the Holy Sites in Khorezm and South-KarakalpakstanAkshakhan Qal’a
Shifting sand dunes at Akshakhan Qal’a
Yakke Parsan Qal’a
Yakke Parsan is a for0fied manor house that was
in use from the 6th to the 8th century AD. It is
located 17km north-east of Bo’ston, 5km from
the main Bo’ston-Ayaz Qal’a road.
Excava0on works suggest that the fort must have
been the house of one of the feudal landlords,
called dihqans. There were many manor houses
in the Ellik Qal’a area, however, Yakke Parsan is
one of the few that has not been destroyed. The nobles lived in square inhabitable towers, called
donjons, protected by for0fica0on walls. Only remnants of the defence wall of Yakke Parsan Qal’a
are s0ll intact. In the area between the tower and the for0fica0on wall, the serfs of the feudalists
resided. Local landless farmers worked for those wealthy land owners. The donjons oHen were
located in such a way that the land owners had full control over the irriga0on system.

39
Along the banks of the Amudarya River, small
strips of a unique type of riparian vegeta0on, the
Tugai Gallery Forest, can be found. The Tugai
Forest is an important habitat for many wild
animals such as Wild Boar, Bukhara Deer, Persian
Gazelle, Red Fox, Jackal, Tolai Hare and many bird
species. The dominant tree species in the forest
are the Euphrates Poplar, the Willow, the Russian
Olive and the bright pink ﬂowering Salt Bushes
and Tamarisks.
Par0cularly in the hot summer months, the
microclimate in the riparian forest is very
pleasant. Hence, the Tugai Forest is a popular
recrea0on area. Downstream of the Beruniy
bridge, a private entrepreneur has set up a small
ecotourism project named El Tur. If you want to
experience this special type of ecosystem, you
can sit and rest in the shade of old poplar trees.
Along the river there are two yurts and a tapchan
where you can relax and have a picnic or a
sundowner. If you want, you can try to catch a
ﬁsh which will be prepared for you on-site.
To reach El Tur ecotourism area, drive via
Urgench towards the Beruniy bridge. Turn leH
just before the police check point and follow the
tarred road for 1.9km un0l you see the sign post
“EL TUR”. Cross the barrier and follow the dirt
road along the backwaters of the Amudarya to
the banks of the main stream. A small footpath
along the river bank leads through the dense
Tugai Forest to the ecotourism area.
Before going there, contact Hotel Navruz in
Urgench. Tel. +998-62-228-4911,
+998-62-228-4920, +998-93-466-1633
Ecotourism in Khorezm
Recrea/on Areas along the Amudarya River
Road through the Tugai Forest
View of the mighty Amudarya River
Fishing in the calm backwaters of the Amudarya
Dining yurt

40
Ornithological Tour in Khorezm and Karakalpakstan
Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan are not
only worth a visit because of their wealth of
historic monuments, they also have a number of
exci0ng birding areas. You can easily combine an
ornithological ou0ng with a cultural tour.
Driving from Bukhara to Khiva through the
Kyzylkum Desert, you have a good chance to spot
some Panda’s Ground Jays near the road in the
sand dunes. The preferred habitat for the birds is
saxaul vegeta0on. When approached, they
usually 0ptoe away swiHly before they fly a few
meters.
The area south-east of Khiva, with its extensive
water bodies consis0ng of lakes, fishponds,
irriga0on and drainage canals, has been classified
by Birdlife Interna0onal as “Important Bird
Area” (IBA). Several globally threatened bird
species and species included in the Red Book of
Uzbekistan occur here. The lakes near the Khan’s
summer residence, Chodra Hovli, the fishponds
around Ota Xarrat, the lakes near the recrea0on
areas Qora Kol, Eshon Kol and Lake Qalajiq are
other great places for bird watching. Species such
as the White-tailed Lapwing, the Collared
Pra/ncole, the Black-headed Wagtail, the Black-
headed Gull (winter migrant), the Great White
Pelican, the Glossy Ibis, the Blue-cheeked Bee-
eater and the Eurasian Roller are commonly seen
there. On the lake in front of Qalajiq Fortress,
flocks of Red-necked Phalaropes can be
observed. During the hot summer months (July
and August), when many local people visit the
lake and the adjacent dunes, it is advisable to go
birding in the early morning hours before the
crowds arrive.
Panda’s Ground Jay
White-tailed Lapwing
Collared Pratincole
Eurasian Roller

41
In the ruins of Qalajiq Fortress and the adjacent
sand dunes, the Variable Wheatear, the Desert
Warbler, the Desert Finch and the Egyp an
Nightjar occur.
A very special place for passionate birders is the
cemetery in the village Sayot, 5km east of Khiva.
The trees in this quiet loca#on offer refuge for a
huge breeding colony of White-crowned Night-
herons. More than 100 breeding pairs have been
counted.
During an excursion to neighbouring Karakal-
pakstan, you can admire the birdlife near the
ruins of pre-Chris#an fortresses. In the walls of
the fortress Toprak Qal’a, a huge colony of Blue-
cheeked Bee-eaters is nes ng. The shallow shore
of Lake Aksha is also an ideal habitat for many
water bird species.
Next to the holy site Sultan Uvays Bobo, visited
by many worshipers, numerous birds of prey are
a2racted by the remains of sacrificial animals.
Another IBA is Lake Sudochie about 100km north-
west of Kungrad. You can observe the en#re lake
from the escarpment, walk along its shore or hire
a boat from the local fishermen. Some globally
threatened species of water birds, amongst them
the Dalma an Pelican, Black-winged Pra ncole,
White-headed Duck, have been recorded there.
Huge flocks of Great White Pelicans, Great and
Pygmy Cormorants, Greater Flamingos, and the
White-tailed Eagle, can be observed. If you visit
Lake Sudochie you should camp out for one night.
The White-winged Spo&ed Woodpecker
(Dendrocopos leucopterus) is quite common in
the Tugai Forest along the Amudarya River but
also in gardens and orchards.
Desert Finch
White-crowned Night-heron
White-winged Spotted Woodpecker
Lake Sudochie

42
Khorezm is an oasis located between the Kyzylkum and the
Karakum Deserts. Despite the fact that Khorezm is an arid
region, with a long-term average annual precipita#on rate of
100mm and an evapo-transpira#on rate of 1500mm, it is
intensively cul#vated. The first irriga#on structures were
already installed 1000 BC. Between the late 17th and the
early 20th century, a dense network of irriga#on channels
were constructed to distribute the water from the Amudarya
to the dry lands. Since the soils are very salty, sodium flocks
out, le=ng the surface appear as if covered with snow.
Therefore, before plan#ng, the soil has to be leached three
#mes to wash out the excess salt. All the crop is watered by
gravity irriga#on, a method farmers are very skilful in
applying. Drainage water is channelled in collectors and flows
into ar#ficial lakes.
Ploughing and harrowing is usually done by machines. Many
other agricultural ac#vi#es like weeding, harves#ng or
transplan#ng of rice are mainly carried out manually.
The main cash crops grown in the region are co2on, rice and
wheat.
Khorezm is famous for its great variety of sweet and juicy
melons, its apricots, peaches, apples, sour cherries, plums,
pears, pomegranates, mulberries, quinces and grapes. The
main vegetables cul#vated in the region are yellow carrots,
turnips, white onions, potatoes, garlic, maize, tomatoes,
eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkins, cabbages, green peppers,
radishes, beans and sunflowers.
Most families maintain a small garden next to their house.
Livestock, sheep, goats, and poultry (chickens, geese, ducks,
and peacocks) are kept in small numbers for subsistence.
Delicious fresh vegetables and fruit are grown for home
consump#on and marketed on the local bazaars.
The Agricultural System of Khorezm
Salinisation
Leaching of fields
Irrigation canal
Cotton field
Gravity irrigation

43
Fruits of the Khorezm Region
White mulberries are dried
Pears are an autumn fruit
Sour cherries are preserved as kompot
Spring apples are small but tasty
Sweet, juicy melons
The beautiful blossom of the Pomegranate
Khorezm is famous for its delicious grapes
Nectarines

44
Cereals, Vegetables and Livestock of Khorezm
Rice has to be transplanted by hand
On Sundays, sheep are sold on Mol Bazaar
Yellow carrots are more commonly grown
Turp, are green radishes eaten as salad
Rice is one of the staple crops in the Uzbek cuisine
Sunflower seeds area eaten as snack
Dried eggplants are often used in salads
Fresh, tasty green peppers

45
Stopover at the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli
Tour Sugges ons in Khorezm and South-Karakalpakstan
Try the fresh fish at Ulli Hovli Restaurant
Traditional donkey cart at Ulli Hovli Fortress
Folklore show at Ulli Hovli
Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli
For more informa#on on the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli, and the restaurant see page 22.

46
Day Excursion to Tourist Sights East of Khiva and to Qalajiq Salt Lake
From Khiva there are a number of day or half-day excursion op#ons. Depending on your schedule
and interest you can choose the short (44km) or longer tour (95km) and visit some of the sites
along the route. Driving 10.7km from Khiva towards Yangiariq village, you will pass the walls of
the Khan’s summer residence, Chodra Hovli. The very peculiar structure, surrounded by a huge
garden, is worth a visit (descrip#on on page 24).
AAer another 4.8km, you can visit a tradi#onal po&ery at Ka2abog’ village and watch the
masters at work (descrip#on see page 57). Con#nue for another 19.5km towards Bog’ot. Turn
right at the road sign Qalajiq and follow the tarred road for 9.4km un#l you reach the ancient
fortress Qalajiq Qal’a. The recrea#on centre at the saline lake next to the fortress offers
tradi#onal health treatments and has a big choice of catering facili#es, which are only
opera#onal in summer (descrip#on on page 27).
On the way back, you can choose an alterna#ve route. Branch off at Yangiariq and follow the
secondary road for 4.1km. On your leA hand side, you will see the famous Muslim pilgrimage site
Sheikh Muhtor Valiy. The mausoleum is surrounded by a huge cemetery. Experience the special
flair of this place (more informa#on on page 32).
Follow the road westwards to get to the village of Oqmasjid, where German Mennonites lived
(1883-1935). They were skilled carpenters, good farmers and introduced new livestock and crops
to Khorezm. Con#nue straight towards Khiva and you will get to the Khorezm fish farms. You can
eat at the local fish restaurant “Ota Xarrat”. The fish always comes fresh out of the pond. From
your table or tapchan you can watch the diverse birdlife on the water. Return along the tarred
road to Khiva (7.3km).

47
Ou ngs to the Recrea on Centres Qora Kol and Kharrot
In 2015, two fancy recrea#on centres have been established 7km south of Khiva. Both are locat-
ed near the Turkmen border, south of the Drujba drainage canal, in the Karakum Desert on the
shore of small lakes. Both centres have several restaurants, accommoda#on facili#es and oﬀer a
diverse water sport and entertainment programme for the whole family (see pages 25 and 26).
Water scooter drive on Lake Eshon
Kharrot Touristic Complex at Lake Eshon RavatQora Kol Touristic Complex
Sunset in the dunes at Lake Qora Kol

48
From Khiva you can make a half-day excursion to the ancient fortresses in neighbouring
Karakalpakstan. The return trip (220km) takes about 5 hours without a lunch break.
Already 2000 years ago, people who lived in the fer#le Amudarya plains built many fortresses to
defend themselves against the invasions of nomadic tribes. Most of the fortresses are located at
the edge of the Sultan Uvays Dag’ mountain range overlooking the oasis.
From Khiva, travel via Urgench (27km) and Beruniy (25km) to Qizil Qal’a (30.8km). You can see
the small fortress from the main road. You cannot reach the site by tour bus, as the access road is
very narrow. Con#nue to the nearby Toprak Qal’a (2.6km). The rectangular fortress used to be a
city with a palace and a temple. It dates back to the 2nd and 3rd century AD. Look out for
hundreds of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters nes#ng in the Qal’a walls. At the foot of the Qal’a a yurt
camp is oﬀering good catering services. The toilet facili#es are rus#c.
Con#nue via Bo’ston (11.3km) to Ayaz Qal’a (22.3km) one of the highlights of your fortress tour.
It consists of three fortress complexes. From Ayaz Qal’a I you have a splendid view of the
Kyzylkum Desert. Par#cularly in spring, the vegeta#on around the Qal’a is unique (wild tulips and
wild onions, and the strange looking plant called Devil’s Dung (Ferula). You can have lunch or a
tea break at Aytaz Qal’a yurt camp.
Return from Ayaz Qal’a via Bo’ston, Beruniy, Urgench to Khiva (101.3km).
Half-Day Excursion to Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan

49
Big Qal’a Tour
Jonbos Q.
Akshakhan Q.
A one-day excursion from Khiva to six of the ancient fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan is a
nice change to the Silk Road city programme. The en#re trip is 262km and takes about 8 hours
including a lunch break. The fortresses, da#ng back to pre-Chris#an #mes, were either defence or
refuge structures, royal palaces, places of worship, observatories or mansion houses of feudal
families.
From Khiva, drive via Urgench, Beruniy, To’rtkol to Guldursun Qal’a (98.9km). The large fortress,
protected by 15m high outer walls and towers, was used as refuge by residence of the neighbour-
ing villages when invaders approached. 11km further north-east, Qoy Qirilgan Qal’a comes into
sight. The fortress was in use from the 4th century BC un#l the 4th century AD. Parts of the inner
eighteen-cornered building, subdivided into many chambers, is s#ll visible. During excava#on
works many ceramic jars and vessels, terraco2a statue2es, ossuaries, iron tools and wall
pain#ngs were found. Archaeologists suggest that the fortress might have been an astronomical
observatory. Con#nue to Jonbos Qal’a (19.4km), one of the best preserved citadels da#ng back
to the 4th century BC (see page 36). The nearby yurt camp invites for a rest. The next highlight is
the gigan#c fortress complex Ayaz Qal’a (15.7km) consis#ng of three individual forts. The tradi-
#onal yurt camp next to the fortress oﬀers meals and accommoda#on (see page 35). On the way
back via Bo’ston to Khiva, visit Toprak Qal’a (31.5km). The huge royal city, built in the 1st century
AD accommodated up to 2500 people (see page 34). You can take a break to dine in the adjacent
yurt camp. Pass the small fortress Qizil Qal’a (2.6km) and return via Beruniy (30.8km) and Ur-
gench (25km) to Khiva (27km).
Guldursun Q.
Qoy Qirilgan Q.
Ayaz Q.
Qizil Q. Toprak Q.

50
Excursion to the Lesser-known Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan
The two fortresses, Gavur and Janpik Qal’a are situated at
the banks of the Amudarya River. Their prominent loca#on
allowed the control of this important waterway. From Khiva
the shortest route is via Qo’shkopir, Shovot to Gurlan
(53.6km). In Gurlan, take the Mangit road up to the ﬁrst
roundabout (26km). There, turn right and drive to the
Amudarya pontoon (9.2km). The pontoon is not in good
condi#on and therefore not adequate for tour busses. Saloon
cars are able to pass. The sight of Gavur Qal’a from the river
is spectacular (more informa#on, page 37). From Gavur Qal’a
a dirt road brings you directly to Janpik Qal’a (9km). This
huge fortress overlooks the Tugai Forest and the Amudarya
River (see informa#on, page 37). On the way back to Khiva,
turn oﬀ aAer 21km from the main road at the Sultan Uvays
junc#on. AAer crossing the railway, turn right and follow the
road to the small fortress Qizil Qal’a (14.8km). The nearby
Toprak Qal’a (1.3km) is one of the highlights of the tour. In
the adjacent yurt camp, you can dine in nomad style. Return
to Khiva via Beruniy and Urgench (90.3km). The en#re trip
(225km) takes 8 hours. It is also possible to include a visit to
Gavur and Janpik fortresses enroute from Khiva to Nukus.
Gavur Q.
Janpik Q.
Toprak Q.
Qizil Q.
Akshakhan Q.
Gavur Qal’a
Janpik Qal’a
Toprak Qal’a

51
Day Excursion to the Holy Sites in Southern Karakalpakstan (243km)
The tour to some of the most famous holy sites in Southern
Karakalpakstan will take about 5 hours. From Khiva drive via
Urgench (28km) and Beruniy (25km) to To’rtkol (28km).
Follow the Bo’ston road for 22.5km to reach the tradi%onal
healing site, Kechirmas Bobo Mausoleum. Norimjon Bobo
Mausoleum is located only 3.3 km further north. The
Mausoleum of Abdulla al-Norimjon is surrounded by a large
necropolis da%ng back to the 14th century. On your way
from Bo’ston to the well-known Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex
(descrip%on on page 33) do not miss to stop a0er 7.4km to
see the ancient fortresses Toprak Qal’a and 2.6km further
the fortress Qizil Qal’a (see informa%on on page 34). From
there, follow the tarred road to the holy site in the Sultan
Uvays Bobo range (18km) which is par%cularly visited by
many worshipers on Fridays. Small domes%c animals and
poultry is slaughtered and eaten here. Parts of the meal are
brought to people in need. If %me allows, consider con%nuing 3.4km further up into the
mountains to see the place where the knee-print of Sultan Uvays is said to be visible in a rock.
Return via Beruniy (41.2km) to Khiva (53km).
Sultan Uvays Bobo
Norimjon Bobo
Kechirmas
Bobo
Kechirmas Bobo Mausoleum
Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex

52
Inside of some of the old medressas, cra0smen have established their workshops. It is fascina%ng
to watch the silk carpet weavers, the wood carvers, the women who embroider suzannis, the
po8ers or the puppet makers. Khiva is famous for its music and tradi%onal dances. During
tourism season, a folklore group performs in Allakuli Khan Medressa every day in the late
a0ernoon and a group of acrobats can be booked in Muhammad Rakhim Khan II Medressa.
Arts and Cra,s in Khiva and the Khorezm Region
Woodcarver apprentice Silk carpet weaver
Folklore groupTraditional puppets
Khiva, ceramic factory Khiva, acrobat family Young singer and dancer
Embroidering suzannis

53
Parda Gul
Olma Gul
Benaki
G’uncha Gul
Bog’cha Gul
Aylana Gul
Tilla Qopi
Narda
Xusraf
The Khiva Suzanni Centre is opera%ng in an old medressa. Young women are trained in the
tradi%onal art of embroidery. Pa8erns are copied from old %les and wooden doors (see below).
Khiva Suzanni Centre in the Abdurasulboy Medressa

54
Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop
The Silk Carpet Workshop of Madrim is located in the Yokubboy Hoja Medressa.
All carpets are handmade and dyed with natural colours.
Pomegranate peel, madder root, indigo and walnut husks are used for dying of the silk threads.
After the carpets are woven, they are trimmed and washed.
When visi%ng the carpet workshop the whole process of carpet weaving will be explained.

55
Tilla Gul
Bekzod
Pahlavon Joy Namoz Mangol
Xumoyun
Pir Qopi
To’lkin
Arqonchi
Each carpet pa8ern has a name. Pa8erns are derived either from ancient majolica %les, from
carved doors of historic buildings or from carpet pa8erns depicted on miniature pain%ngs.
Silk Carpet Pa2erns

56
Po2ery Workshops in Khiva District
The pottery workshop of Artikov Ko’pal in Eski Qiyot village, near Khiva is also engaged in making
traditional brown and yellow Khiva style plates.
The dishes are formed in molds.
Painted, glazed and burnt platesMelting of lead for glazing of the plates.
Pottery workshop of the Bobojonov family
Bahodir Bobojonov produces traditional bodiya pottery in Ogohiy village (Khiva District). The dishes are
formed in molds, painted, glazed and burnt in a kiln.

57
The Po2ery workshop of Master Rustam Toirov in Khiva
The historic buildings of Khiva, decorated with
majolica %les, overwhelm many visitors. All of
these ancient monuments have to be restored
from %me to %me. Unlike some of the other
po8ers in Khorezm, Rustam Toirov has special-
ised on the renova%on of historic monuments.
For this purpose, he collected copies of original
%le pa8erns of the historic buildings. Amongst his
renowned works are the restora%on of Kalta
Minor in Ichon Qal’a and the re%ling of the
domes of the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, of
the Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex in Khiva and
of the Statues of Al-Khorezmiy and Al-Beruniy in
Urgench. Rustam Toirov also produces %les for
big new buildings such as restaurants, hotels and
apartment blocks in the Khorezm region. He
re%led domes in Samarkand, Bukhara, Shaxrisabz,
Termez and Qarshi. In Kazakhstan, master
Rustam worked on the cupolas of several
mosques.
At Rustam’s workshop, located in the outskirts of
Khiva, visitors are welcome to see the masters at
work. In four big kilns, %les are burnt twice at
high temperature (1100°C): once before and once
a0er they have been decorated and glazed. This
makes them very durable. The po8er mainly uses
a koshin loi which literally means “clay for %les”.
It consists of loam, water, the ﬂuﬀy material of
mature bulrushes and sand.
All po8ery workshops in Khorezm use the same
components for decora%ng the %le. Cobalt is used
for blue, copper for turquoise, manganese for
black and quartz mixed with white sand for white.
Tile for the restoration of a monument
Tiles are burnt at 1100C⁰ in the kiln
Painting of a pre-burnt, white coated tile
Historic patterns kept in the potters archive

58
Po2ery workshop in Ka2abog’ near Yangiariq
Vases and dishes are decorated with dark and light blue geometric patterns or flower ornaments.
The majolica in many famous monuments (Sheikh Muhtor Valiy, Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon and Pahlavon
Mahmud Mausoleum) and in modern buildings in Uzbekistan have been produced by these masters.
The earthenware is burnt in a kiln. To visit the workshop contact Ollanazar Sadullaev +998-90-726-0045.
Since nine generations, the pottery of the Atajanov family produces majolica tiles for monuments as well as jars
and dishes. Presently Ollanazar Sadullaev and his brother Bahodir Atajanov are continuing the tradition.

59
Ceramic Workshop in Madyr near Xonqa
If you want to visit the workshop and the exhibition room contact Adilbek Rakhimov Tel.:+998-91-432-0444
Since many generations the Matchanov family produces traditional pottery products.
The tiles are painted with cobalt, and copper, burnt, glazed and assembled to mosaics.
Blue ceramics tiles have been used for the decoration of many historical monuments in Khiva.

60
Wood Carving, an old Khorezmian Cra,
Excava%ons on archeological sites in Khorezm and
Southern Karakalpakstan show that woodcarving
is an ancient cra0 in the region. Many visitors
admire the beau%fully carved doors and columns
of the royal palaces and fortresses. One of the
outstanding monuments is the Friday Mosque
with 213 stunning, carved wooden columns.
More than 30 wood carvers are presently work-
ing in Ichon Qal’a. Quite a number of old
medressas have been converted into wood
carving workshops. There, visitors can watch the
masters at work. Apart from gigan%c columns,
doors and tapchans produced on order, smaller
items such as pencil boxes, book stands, pot
coasters, walking s%cks and jewellery boxes are
made.
The main types of wood used for carving are Field
Elm, mulberry, walnut, and poplar. To ease carv-
ing the wood is soaked in water for several
months, dried slowly in a shady place and
greased with co8on oil. Wood carvers design the
pa8erns themselves or cooperate with ar%sts.
The chosen pa8ern drawn on paper is placed
over the wood and pin pricked through. The
typical Khiva designs are characterised by their
whirling lines of ﬂower pa8erns. Also geometric
forms are used. In the past, Arabic scripts had
been used in many historic monuments as well.
The marvelously carved main gate of Ichon Qal’a
is one of the masterpieces of the woodcarving
trade.
Wooden column at Nurullaboy palace
Woodcarver at work
Old wooden door

61
Khiva is famous for its skilled puppet makers. One
of five masters in Khiva is Matyoqub
Matyoqubov. He has worked in the trade since 25
years and has trained some of the other masters.
In former !mes, puppets were made out of cloths
and leather. Nowadays, papier-mâché is used. For
each puppet character, a gypsum mould is pro-
duced and filled with up to twelve layers of pa-
pier-mâché glued together with wallpaper paste.
Hence, the puppet heads turn out to be very stur-
dy. Therea*er, the head is fixed !ghtly onto a
s!ck. Pain!ng the face, designing and producing
the headwear and clothes of the puppets are
tasks of Matyoqubov’s wife and daughters. To be
able to use the puppets as decora!ve items each
puppet pair is placed in a hand woven bag. On
order, Mr. Matyoqubov also produces puppets
that resemble a life person. For this, clients have
to leave their photos with him as a template. To
perform legends and fairy tales, schools and kin-
dergartens order par!cular puppet characters.
An open-air puppet show is part of the Navruz
fes!vi!es. Apart from handheld puppets big pup-
pets that are the size of a person are used by the
puppeteer. It is planned to hold a puppet fes!val
in Khiva biannually.
Puppets make nice souvenirs to take home
Puppet Making in Khiva
A big selection of oriental puppets is on sale
The face is made from papier-mâché
Open-air puppet shows are held in KhivaGet your own puppet Gruesome puppets

62
Furrier has been an ancient trade in Khorezm. A
statue excavated at Meshekli Caravanserai wear-
ing a fur hat suggests that the profession must
have existed since the an!quity. Pahlavon
Mahmud (1247-1326), the patron saint of Khiva,
was not only famous as a poet and wrestler, but
also for his skills as furrier. He freed many
Khorezmians, who were kept as slaves in India,
with his legendary furrier trick.
Most of the furriers of Khiva are in the business
since many genera!ons. They have specialised in
making various types of fine fur hats, some with
matching pelt shawls as well as sleeveless jackets.
Mostly Karakul sheep, Tolai hare and Desert cat
furs derived from different regions in Uzbekistan
are used. The pelts of Red fox, wolf, badger and
lynx are purchased from hunters from the Tian
Shan and the Pamir Mountains and from Russian
traders. Different hats were used for different
occasions. Tradi!onal longhaired sheep hats were
used by men during fes!vi!es, while the classical
white sheep hats were worn by the washers of
corpses. Prices depend on the type of pelt and
the occurrence of the fur colour in nature. Per-
sian lamb fur is derived from three day old Kara-
kul lambs. Black, brown and grey lamb fur is rela-
!vely inexpensive, whereas white fur costs more
as this colour is rare to find in sheep.
Furrier, an Ancient Profession in Khorezm
Fur hat worn by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II
Have your photo taken with a traditional hat
A big choice of fur hats is on sale
You won’t suffer from the cold with a warm fur hatPersian lamb hat Elegant fur jacket

63
Catering facility Tel. +998- E-mail Descrip%on
Orient Star
Restaurant
62-375 4945
62-375 6859
hotelorienstar@rambler.ru Restaurant of Orient Star Hotel in the Matniyoz
Devonbegi Medressa, Khorezmian dishes
Bir Gumbaz
Teahouse
90-187 2651 ol!ntoj@mail.ru Cosy teahouse and outdoor tables, different types
of coffee available
Yusuf Yasovulboshi
Restaurant
91-278 9991
62-375 2456
m_odil@list.ru Stylish restaurant in old medressa, good
service, Uzbek dishes
Farrukh Teahouse 62-375 3512 hoet-mchj@mail.ru Yurt and outdoor tables, Uzbek cuisine
Kheivak Restaurant 62-375 7610 booking-malika@mail.ru Outdoor restaurant of Malika Kheivak Hotel,
Central Asian cuisine
Khorezm Art
Restaurant
62-375 9197
90-713 1663
95-606 9270
xorazm-art@mail.ru
www.khorezmart.uz
Tastefully decorated medressa, professional ser-
vice, Khorezm speciali!es, outdoor dining
Zarafshon Cafe 62-375 7051
91-434 9817
cafezarafshon@mail.ru Restaurant in Tolib Maxsum Medressa, outdoor
dining facili!es, Khorezmian food
Mirzaboshi
Teahouse
62-375 2753
93-569 8989
mirzaboshi@inbox.ru Teahouse in ayvan style, tradi!onal dishes,
professional service
1001
Teahouse
91-993 9111
94-936 0018
rrustamov@yandex.ru Nice view from the roof terrace, real coffee and
German cakes
Tourism Infrastructure
Orient Star Restaurant
1001 Teahouse
Mirzaboshi Teahouse
Yusuf Yasovulboshi Restaurant
Khorezm Art Restaurant
Zarafshon Cafe
Farrukh Teahouse
Bir Gumbaz Teahouse
Kheivak Restaurant
Restaurants in Khiva within the Inner City Wall (Ichon Qal’a)

64
Restaurants in Khiva outside of Ichon Qal’a
Catering facility Tel. +998- Descrip%on
Xusan Muhammadboy
Restaurant
91-421 3965 Nice decor in old medressa, Khorezmian dishes, good ablu!on
facili!es, khivabaraka@mail.ru
Silk Road Restaurant 62-375 9209
94-315 5678
Restaurant in an old medressa, Khorezmian dishes
info@khivapride.com, !murbekblack-silver@mail.ru
Qibla Toza Bog' Restaurant 62-375 4807
91-434 9798
Fancy restaurant in the khan’s summer palace, booking required
Bog’i Shamol Restaurant 90-965 2369
91-273 1299
Garden-restaurant in the khan’s summer residence, Khorezmian
dishes, fresh ﬁsh, booking required
Rustamboy Teahouse 90-557 4802 Tradi!onal ea!ng facility
Khiva Moon Tour Restau-
rant
ma%mur.80@mail.ru
91-431 5799
91-279 2829
Fancy new restaurant in walking distance from west gate
ma!mur.80@mail.ru
Toxir va Zuxra Cafe 91-912 0024 Tradi!onal ea!ng facility
Xojiakbar Teahouse 91-421 3010 Tradi!onal ea!ng facility, opposite Khiva recrea!on park
Navruz Teahouse 62-375 6919
91-432 1331
Tradi!onal ea!ng facility, opposite Khiva recrea!on park
Karavan Restaurant 91-997 6710 Tradi!onal restaurant in the Khiva recrea!on park
Nur Cafe 91-994 2145 Tradi!onal restaurant in the Khiva recrea!on park
Kafe Skazka 95-602 3070 Tradi!onal restaurant in the Khiva recrea!on park
Akvaryum 90-738 9111 Tradi!onal restaurant in the Khiva recrea!on park
Sim Sim Cafe 91-423 2554 Tradi!onal food, famous for its chicken dishes
Rejabboy Ota Teahouse 93-755 2225 Tradi!onal ﬁsh restaurant also called Sharof
Toxir va Zuxra Cafe
Bog’i Shamol Restaurant
Rejabboy Ota Teahouse
Akvaryum
Khiva Moon Tour Restaurant
Xusan Muhammadboy
Silk Road Restaurant
Karavan
Qibla Toza Bog’

65
Restaurants and Cafes in Urgench
Catering facility Tel. +998- Open Seats Descrip%on
Art Uzbegim 91-917 7468
90-719 9293
09:00-23:00 70-80 Double-storey building, posh decor, local dishes
Tabassum 62-229 1126
91-227 7720
09:00-23:00 250 Elegant hall, live music, dance shows, European and
Uzbek dishes
Kafe Dilafruz
Taomlari
90-134 5800
91-426 7135
09:00-23:00 100 Budget, Uzbek dishes, small individual compartments
Xorazm Baliq
Taomlari
95-606 6211 09:00-22:00 250 Uzbek dishes and fresh ﬁsh, specialty en!re chicken in a
dough pocket
Bellur Kafe 91-433 7761 11:00-24:00 140 Uzbek and Turkish dishes, dancing
Shux Dil 91-998 1915 10:00-23:00 50 Uzbek and Italian dishes and sushi
Shox Café 93-742 5354 09:00-23:00 100 Modern set up, na!onal cuisine
Yurt Restaurant 91-370 7727 09:00-02:00 150 Tradi!onally decorated yurts, comfortable interior,
Karakalpak, Kazakh, Chinese and Khorezmian dishes
Bek Cafe 93-751 0114 10:00-23:00 70-200 Restaurant and nice outdoor facili!es for summer
Bowling Club
Restaurant
62-224 0088
94-233 5555
09:00-23:00 70 Restaurant, Uzbek dishes and bowling club
Karavan Restaurant 98-277 4114 09:00-23:00 400 Stylish tradi!onal outdoor facili!es, elegant restaurant
Namangan Taomlari 94-110 1055 09:00-24:00 60 Restaurant at the Shovot canal, Uzbek dishes
Diydor Choyxona 93-748 2337 10:00-01:00 25 Mainly wedding hall, outdoor facili!es, na!onal dishes
Sharq Guzal 95-602 7537 11:00-23:00 100 Shashlik and cakes
Grand 95-602 0004 09:00-02:00 90 Modern set up, Uzbek dishes, Karaoke
Karavan Restaurant
Xorazm Baliq Toamlari
Tabassum Art Uzbebegim Restaurant
Bellur Kafe
Yurt RestaurantBowling Club Restaurant
Bek Cafe
Namangan Taomlari

66
Catering facility Tel. +998- Open Seats Descrip%on
Restaurant Urganch 61-223 1431 10:00-23:00 150 Elegant ambience, Uzbek dishes, fried ﬁsh
Tavallud 91-423 7288
62-223 1431
08:00-23:00 150 Uzbek dishes, fried ﬁsh, breakfast served
Kafe Sevinch 93-742 3135 08:00-23:00 35 Modern set up, Uzbek food
Xorazm Oshi / MaBuna 91-999 6333 11:00-23:00 100 Modern set up, big choice of na!onal dishes,
plov centre
Caramel 93-465 1335 09:00-22:00 20 Modern set up, big choice of tarts and cakes
Nur-Jahon Kafe 95-602 8949 09:00-23:00 80 Modern set up, Uzbek and European dishes
Xorazm Taomlari 91-434 4141 09:00-23:00 100 Modern set up, Uyghur and Uzbek dishes
Kafe Amirxon 95-606 0005 09:00-23:00 100 Modern set up, Uzbek and European dishes
Dasturxon 91-275 4088
91-420 3993
10:00-23:00 100 Uzbek dishes, night club downstairs
Kafe Big Mag 93-753 5366 09:00-24:00 54 Modern set up, burgers and Uzbek dishes
Restaurants and Cafes in Al-Khorezmiy Street, Urgench
Caramel
Kafe Sevinch
Kafe Amirxon
Tavallud
Kafe Big Mag
Dasturxon
Restaurant Urganch
Nur-Jahon Kafe
Xorazm Taomlari

67
The Uzbek na!onal cuisine varies according to
local food products as well as customs and life-
styles of the different ethnic groups. Every region
has its own special dishes.
Many dishes in Khorezm are based on pastry. In
the restaurants of Khiva, you will find dishes like
Shivit oshi (dill noodles), Gumma (fried dough
pockets filled either with meat or vegetables) and
Plov. Itjan, a raw minced meat dish, is eaten to
neutralise the effect of vodka. The region is
famous for its fish from the Amudarya or from
fishponds. Restaurants offer fresh fish, taken out
of the water in the presence of the customer. The
main course is usually accompanied by a big
choice of salads and fruit, according to season.
Most dishes are spiced only lightly. There are
several tradi!onal vegetarian meals such as
tuxum or go’k barak (dough pockets filled with
eggs or freshly sprouted clover).
Khorezmian bread is huge, round and flat,
decorated with the baker’s individual paHern,
and baked in a loam oven. Pa r, a special type of
bread if flavoured with meat and onions.
In summer, you can quench your thirst by a
variety of cold drinks like kompot, homemade
fruit juices and ayran, a yogurt drink.
In many restaurants, you have to book at least
half a day in advance. A lot of catering facili!es
are closed out of season.
The Na%onal Cuisine of Khorezm
Khorezmian bread
Tuxum barak
Khorezmian Plov
Freshly fried Sazan (Carp)

68
Accommoda%on Facili%es in Khiva
Accommoda%on facility
Tel.
+998-
Single/Double,
No. rooms (2015)
Descrip%on of Hotel or B&B
Hotel Asia Khiva
hotelasiakhiva@rambler.ru
62-375 8198
62-375 7683
62-375 2098
S 22 (80/115$)
D 103 (120/170)$
T 5 (163$), Lux 2 (170$)
Modern, pool, bar, sauna, garden,
conference room, high service standard
Hayat Inn Hotel
hotelhaya!nn@mail.ru
62-375 7571
62-375 7572
95-606 6832
S 4 (45$)
D 34 (65-100$)
T 3
Renovated carpet factory, new restaurant
Hotel Orient Star Khiva
orientstarkhiva@rambler.ru
62-375 6859
62-375 4942
62-375 4945
S 3 (60$)
D 75 (80$)
Located in the Muhammad Amin Khan
Medressa, rooms in the study cells of
students, oriental ﬂair
Malika Kheivak
booking-malika@mail.ru
Malika Khiva
Malika Khorezm
62-375 7787
62-375 7610
62-375 2665
62-375 7389
62-375 5451
62-375 8267
S 2 (55$) D 20 (75$)
S 6 (50$) D 33 (70$)
S 4 (50$) D 29 (70$)
Modern, well decorated, rooms small, good
service , near West Gate
Modern, tastefully decorated, good service,
in Ichon Qal’a
Modern, tastefully decorated, good service,
near Qo’sha Darvoza gate
Hotel Shahrezada
info@khivashaherezada.com
62-375 9539
62-375 9565
91-572 7070
S 3 (40$)
D 12 (70$)
T 1 (90$)
Tradi!onal building, unique wood carvings,
oriental decor, good service
Old Khiva Hotel
oldkhiva@mail.ru
95-606 6832
90-719 0870
S 2 (25-40$)
D 19 (35-50$)
Modern, elegant, Ichon Qal’a view, good
service, front rooms with balcony
Hotel Madrasa Aminxon
madrasa_aminxon@mail.ru
62-375 6260
90-559 7940
S (45$)
D 15 (65$)
Renovated carpet factory, func!onal
Hotel Kala
booking@hotelkala.uz
hotelkala20@gmail.ru
www.hotelkala.uz
62-223 1425
90-737 2580
95-620 2586
93-468 0104
S 1 (25$)
D 8 (45$)
T 1 (60$)
New, tasteful tradi!onal decora!on,
roo*op restaurant, stunning view, bikes for
rent
Zafarbek B&B and Hotel
zafar22@intal.uz
www.khivazafarbek.uz
62-375 7185
91-422 1117
D 5 (30$) B&B
S 1 (30$) Hotel
D 10 (45$)
4 Apart.
Two renovated tradi!onal style buildings,
nice courtyard in the hotel
Apartment hotel recently opened
Hotel Orqanchi
orqanchi@mail.ru
62-375 2974
91-424 8010
62-375 2230
S 11 (50$)
D 42 (70$)
T 1 (95$)
Renovated hotel, restaurant in tradi!onal
courtyard, inside Ichon Qal’a, bicycles for
hire
Hotel Isak Hoja
isakjan02@mail.ru
www.isakxujahotel.com
62-375 9283
93-588 3750
91-430 4246
S 1 (25$)
D 13 (35-40$)
Huge rooms, roo*op terrace with Ichon
Qal’a view
Mirzaboshi B&B Annexe
mirzaboshi@inbox.ru
62-375 2753
93-569 8989
95-606 0062
S 4 (20$)
D 8 (35$)
T 1 (45$)
Tradi!onal, rooms and yard beau!fully dec-
orated, good value for money
Hotel Islambek
islambek_hotel@rambler.ru
islambek_hotel@yahoo.com
www.islambekhotel.uz
62-375 3023
91-999 3322
95-602 3024
S (15$)
D 16 (25$), T 2 (35$)
4 pax 2 (40$)
5 pax 1 (50$)
Tradi!onal style, good value for money
Hotel Islambek Khiva
islambek_hotel@rambler.ru
62-375 3023
91-999 3322
S (20$)
D 12 (30$), T 2 (35$)
4 pax 2 (45$)
Modern, good value for money

Khorezm a bit out of the ordinary

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