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Innovation through diamond shapes           Understanding ‘Un-round’ diamonds and their possibilities04/27/12             ...
‘Un-rounds’- Opening up new possibilities           • Un-round diamonds= diamonds other than the round brilliant cut      ...
Some popular Un-rounds04/27/12                            3
Current jewellery04/27/12                       4
Un-rounds- creating new design                   possibilities04/27/12                                    5
Un-rounds- creating new design                   possibilities04/27/12                                    6
Un-rounds- creating new design                   possibilities04/27/12                                    7
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Un-rounds: for the contemporaryyounger generation•   Helps expand design possibilities that suit the contemporary, young a...
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Global fashion trends and designsusing Un-Rounds               Harry Winston                                              ...
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Un-rounds: Fabulous additions toexisting jewellery collections of the elite class     •India is facing a wealth divide wit...
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Un-rounds: helping create value propositionsfor buyers                                                                    ...
Some challenges faced today           1.   Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?           2.   Fast chan...
Un-rounds: Helping retailers increaseprofitability                                                                        ...
Categorization of Un-rounds
Princess Cut                                                                          Technical details                   ...
Modern - with an edge
Emerald Cut                                                                    Technical details                          ...
ClassicJ.F.Kennedy’s gift to Jackie Bouvier from Van Cleef & Arpels
Radiant Cut                                                                            Technical details                  ...
ContemporaryContemporary
Asscher Cut                                                                          Technical details                    ...
StylishCourtesy: Daniel K Diamonds
Marquise                                                            Technical details                                     ...
Heritage
Ovals                                                                      Technical details                              ...
The Kohinoor Diamond (Oval        Shape)Royal
Hearts                                                                  Technical details                                 ...
Neil laneRomance
Pears                                                               Technical details                                     ...
Emotions
Cushions                                                              Technical details                                   ...
Elegance           Daniel K
Comparative Light/Fire ratios (from a test sample)          Shape           Light Return Stereo (Helium)            Round ...
Some consumer misconceptions           • Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are             diamonds)           • Fancy s...
Consumer misconceptions           1. Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are              diamonds)             –   Lack o...
Consumer misconceptions           2. Fancy shapes are not as safe investments as               round brilliants           ...
Consumer misconceptions           3. As fancy shapes are cheaper they are              inferior             – Fancy shapes...
Consumer misconceptions           4. Rounds are better than fancy shapes as they              are more brilliant          ...
Some examples04/27/12                   44
Some examples                De Beers
Some examples
Introduction to Fabulous                       Unrounds           •   One of the core collections of Fabjewels Pvt Ltd    ...
Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12                       48
Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12                       49
Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12                       50
Fabulous Unrounds            Contact:            Ankit Mehta: 9820785355            Hardesh Jain: 982066855104/27/12      ...
Can I learn about ‘Unrounds’ in a Details                 YESAt IIJ, we include the study of fancy shapesCourses that incl...
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Innovation through diamond shapes.

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Understanding ‘Un-round’ diamonds and their possibilities.

Typically known as fancy shape diamonds.
Creating new design possibilities and opening up the world of diamond jewellery.

Innovation through diamond shapes.

  1. 1. Innovation through diamond shapes Understanding ‘Un-round’ diamonds and their possibilities04/27/12 1
  2. 2. ‘Un-rounds’- Opening up new possibilities • Un-round diamonds= diamonds other than the round brilliant cut • Typically known as fancy shape diamonds • Creating new design possibilities and opening up the world of diamond jewellery • Helps address some of the challenges we face today04/27/12 2
  3. 3. Some popular Un-rounds04/27/12 3
  4. 4. Current jewellery04/27/12 4
  5. 5. Un-rounds- creating new design possibilities04/27/12 5
  6. 6. Un-rounds- creating new design possibilities04/27/12 6
  7. 7. Un-rounds- creating new design possibilities04/27/12 7
  8. 8. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 8
  9. 9. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 9
  10. 10. Un-rounds: for the contemporaryyounger generation• Helps expand design possibilities that suit the contemporary, young and well styled generation• Give much wider choice, ability to choose from many different shapes to suit the desired look. Gives them power to differentiate rather than buying generic and traditional round diamond based jewellery only• New generation is more knowledgeable and well informed about diamonds. For eg. ‘I want a princess cut only’
  11. 11. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 11
  12. 12. Global fashion trends and designsusing Un-Rounds Harry Winston Tanishq•High usage of fancy shapes in the western world, fast catching up in India•New design genres and styles are being used in jewellery for e.g ‘Art Deco’, using the possibilities ofUnround diamonds•Prominence already seen in North, East and West India. Rising popularity in South India too
  13. 13. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 13
  14. 14. Un-rounds: Fabulous additions toexisting jewellery collections of the elite class •India is facing a wealth divide with the rich becoming richer. •Already have a lot of round diamond jewellery, still continuing to spend year on year. •‘Un-rounds’ providing a lot of options for the second, third buys and so on •Example: Multiple stack of single line bangles in different shapes, solitaires and so on
  15. 15. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 15
  16. 16. Un-rounds: helping create value propositionsfor buyers Emeralds Single Line bangle Round Brilliant Single Line bangle 50 pntrs- FGH VVS 50 pntrs- FGH VVS Rs 18,00,000/- approx Rs 24,00,000/- Approx •Increasing material prices in diamonds and gold affecting customer purchasing power •Un-rounds available at a much better value than rounds: some shapes are approx 35-40 percent cheaper than rounds •Unround jewellery therefore giving a much better value for a bigger look than round diamonds •Helps value buyers adopt diamond jewellery more easily
  17. 17. Some challenges faced today 1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation? 2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up? 3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep satisfying their needs 4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for jewellery buyers? 5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more breathing space?04/27/12 17
  18. 18. Un-rounds: Helping retailers increaseprofitability Hazoorilal Jewellers•Competition over one shape has reduced margins for most retailers•Using multiple diamond shapes reduces the comparison ability of the consumer withcompetition, thus giving more legroom for margin•With high round prices Un-rounds are in much better value, and thus allow more scope forincreased profitability
  19. 19. Categorization of Un-rounds
  20. 20. Princess Cut Technical details L/W ratio 1.00-1.05 Total Depth 65% - 75% Pavilion Angle (in degrees) 39-41 Crown Angle 30-38 Girdle Thickness 1% - 5% Light return Stereo (Helium 87%-89% Data) History & Key features Founder/Year The Barion cut was the forerunner of the Princess cut.. It was invented by Basil Watermeyer of Johannesburg. Another similar cut was designed by Arpad Nagy a London cutter in 1961, which started to be referred to as the ‘Princess Cut’. The same name and shape was later used and made popular by Ygal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar, and Israel Itzkowitz in Israel in 1979. Design description The princess cut is sometimes referred to as a square modified brilliant, while displaying the same high degree of brilliance, its faceting style is quite unique and completely different from that of a round brilliant. Its chevron-shaped facets in the pavilion combine to give a distinct cross-shaped reflection when the stone is viewed directly through the table. Effectively, the Princess cut combines the high degree of light return of a round brilliant cut with a distinctive square or rectangular shape Popular jewellery Solitaire rings, studs, 4-5-6 stone invisible setting illusion jewellery, ‘art deco’ style jewellery applications in the world Famous pieces/Key David Chase of Chase Bank, USA, gifted his wife, a $1 million necklace set made of 400 crts of princess celebrities cuts, each individually linked to form a large carpet. The entire suite was purchased through Neiman Marcus in LA.04/27/12 20
  21. 21. Modern - with an edge
  22. 22. Emerald Cut Technical details No of facets 58 L/W ratio 1.35-1.5 Total Depth 60-70 Girdle Thickness 3% - 5% Light return Stereo (Helium) 72-75% History & Key features Founder/Year The Emerald shape diamond received its name when a diamond cutter chose to cut a diamond in a rectangular shape step cut which was more popular for cutting green Emeralds (color stones). That’s why its been called the emerald cut. Design description It’s a rectangular cut with "stepped" facets, which means the facets resemble steps on a staircase. The Emerald cut provides for a very elegant classic look and is known for its long lines. The pavilion (bottom portion of the stone) is cut with large rectangular facets to create an open effect or optical appearance. Popular jewellery Historically emerald cuts have been very popular in antique Indian jewellery. Popular in both simple applications in the world and elaborate ring settings. Its classic look has been capitalized in bigger sets to add contrast, as its strength is the subtle and simple design. Famous pieces/Key The most famous emerald cut was the Darya-I-Nur was renowned throughout the world to be the celebrities world’s largest pink colored diamond weighing 195 crts. Prince Rainier of Monaco wooed Grace Kelly with a 12 crt emerald cut diamond surrounded with diamond baguettes04/27/12 22
  23. 23. ClassicJ.F.Kennedy’s gift to Jackie Bouvier from Van Cleef & Arpels
  24. 24. Radiant Cut Technical details No of facets 70 L/W ratio 1.18-1.25 Total Depth 70-75 Pavilion Angle (in degrees) 38-41 Crown Angle 32-38 Girdle Thickness 3%-7% Light return Stereo (Helium Data) 90% -93% History & Key features Founder/Year Henry Grossbard perfected the modern Radiant shape diamond in 1977 Design description The Radiant has the brilliance and fire of the traditional Round Brilliant but the shape of the Emerald cut. The Radiant was designed with 70 facets for the maximum amount of brilliance. It has cropped corners and is often slightly more rectangular over square shaped. Popular jewellery Engagement rings, contemporary and modern styled jewellery applications in the world Famous pieces/Key Hilary Duff, Brooke Mueller and Khloe Kardashian have all received radiant-cut diamond engagement celebrities rings Jennifer Lopezs well-known Bennifer ring has a pink radiant cut diamond.04/27/12 24
  25. 25. ContemporaryContemporary
  26. 26. Asscher Cut Technical details No of facets 65 L/W ratio 1-1.04 Total Depth 65% - 75% Girdle Thickness 3% - 7% Light return Stereo (Helium) 72-73% History & Key features Founder/Year The Asscher shape diamond was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland and is a variation of an Emerald cut. Design description The Asscher cut is a stepped square cut also known as a Modified Square Emerald cut. This cut offers a small table (largest facet on a stone) high crown (top portion of the stone) deep pavilions (lower portion of the stone), and cut corners Popular jewellery Used in solitaire rings, single line bangles or in contrast with other square shaped stones applications in the world Famous pieces/Key Kate Hudson and Reese Witherspoon received much talked about asscher cut engagement rings celebrities04/27/12 26
  27. 27. StylishCourtesy: Daniel K Diamonds
  28. 28. Marquise Technical details No Of Facets 57 Total Depth 60%-66% Girdle Thickness 3% - 5% Light return Stereo 75% - 77% (Helium) L/W ratio 1.9-2.10History & Key featuresFounder/Year It is believed that the Sun King, Louis the XIV wanted a diamond to be cut like the smile of his mistress, Marquise de Pompadour, so he commissioned a jeweler to cut it for him.Design description The Marquise cut resembles a classic style boat when viewed from above. The crown (top portion of the stone above the girdle), pavilion (bottom portion of the stone below the girdle), and table (largest facet on a stone) are cut in rectangular facets. The Marquise is bright, clear, and has a great deal of sparkle because the facets span the length or width of the stone and decrease, as they get closer to the table.Popular jewellery Used in classic styled jewellery. Very popular in India in the traditional flower and leaf motifs inapplications in the world necklace spreads, hand wear and so on.Famous pieces/Key Catherine Zeta Jones received a marquise diamond engagement ring from Michael Douglascelebrities
  29. 29. Heritage
  30. 30. Ovals Technical details No Of Facets 56 Total Depth 61%-65% Girdle Thickness 2% -5% Light return Stereo (Helium) 75% -77% L/W ratio 1.3-1.4History & Key featuresFounder/Year Lazare Kaplan created the modern day Oval shaped diamond (modified brilliant version) in the early 1960s. It is a variation of the Round Brilliant and, with its 56 facets, is full of brilliance and fire. Popularized by Lazare Kaplan in the early 1960’sDesign description The Oval cut is an adaptation of the Round Brilliant and usually looks larger than a round stone of the same carat weight. It is a great alternative for someone wanting the look of the Round Brilliant, but also looking for something a little different. The length of the Oval accentuates long slender fingers.Popular jewellery The oval cut has since history been in the proud possession of Rajas and Moghul emperors. It mayapplications in the world have been set in the famous Peacock Throne made for Shah Jahan. Popular jewellery application today has been in large necklaces, bangles and bracelets todayFamous pieces/Key Katie Holmes and Victoria Beckhamcelebrities
  31. 31. The Kohinoor Diamond (Oval Shape)Royal
  32. 32. Hearts Technical details No Of Facets 58 Total Depth 55%-60% Girdle Thickness 2% -5% Light return Stereo (Helium) 85%-87% L/W ratio 0.9-1History & Key featuresFounder/Year Has been traced back to the medieval ages sometime in the 1400’s. During this time different techniques and style cuts such as the Heart were developed.Design description The Heart is the ultimate symbol of love and is known as the most romantic of all shaped diamonds. The Heart cut diamond is essentially a Pear shaped diamond with a cleft at the top.Popular jewellery Used most in rings and earring studs due to its symbolic shape. Today used in other categories alsoapplications in the world along with other shapes also.
  33. 33. Neil laneRomance
  34. 34. Pears Technical details No Of Facets 58 Total Depth 58%-65% Girdle Thickness 2% -5% Light return Stereo 70%-73% (Helium) L/W ratio 1.45-1.7History & Key featuresFounder/Year The Pear shape diamond (aka Teardrop) was highly popular during the Renaissance period. Lodewyk (Louis) van Berquem of Brugge of Belgium created the first Pear cut diamond in 1458.Design description A Pear cut diamond is a half Oval and half Marquise. The stone is pointed at one end and rounded on the other. Also called the Tear drop, because of its shape, whose beauty may have brought tears to many-a-eye.Popular jewellery Small sizes are used in India in floral designs along with marquise in necklaces, bangles and bracelets.applications in the world Also in slightly larger sizes has been very popular in drop-earrings and pendants due to its shape. Elegant in a large solitaire ring also.Famous pieces/Key Called the most romantic gift of modern times- the 69 crt pear shape diamond which Richard Burtoncelebrities placed on Elizabeth Taylors hand when she agreed to marry him
  35. 35. Emotions
  36. 36. Cushions Technical details No Of Facets 61 Total Depth 69%- 74% Girdle Thickness 2% -7.5% Light return Stereo 92%-96% (Helium) L/W ratio 1.00-1.05 (sometimes longer rectangular cut styles also accepted)History & Key featuresFounder/Year The Cushion shape is an antique cut that resembles a cross between an Old Mine cut (a deep cut with large facets) common in the late 19th Century, early 20th Century and a modern Oval cut. . The first cushion cut diamond was created almost 200 years ago, the cut has gone through some very much needed refinements and this has led to a recent resurgence in popularityDesign A four sided deep square or rectangle cut with rounded edges and large facets - it has a cushioned shaped girdle. Thedescription cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction and is therefore especially suited for candlelight. It filters a large volume of returning light, which makes it one of the most brilliant and sparkling diamond cutsPopular The most popular style engagement ring is a diamond solitaire, the cuts include the Cushion cut diamond solitaire.jewellery The solitaire design was introduced by Tiffany about 100 years agoapplications inthe worldFamous pieces/ Britney Spears bought for herself 4 carat cushion-cut diamond ring with a platinum pave setting.Key celebrities Brooke Shields antique Cushion Diamond Ring set in the platinum. Ashley Judd had a 3.00 carat Cushion cut Ring
  37. 37. Elegance Daniel K
  38. 38. Comparative Light/Fire ratios (from a test sample) Shape Light Return Stereo (Helium) Round 93-97% Princess 87-89% Radiant 90 -93% Cushion 92-96% Oval 75 -77% Pear 70-73% Marquise 75 - 77% Heart 85-87% Emerald 72-75% Asscher 72-73%
  39. 39. Some consumer misconceptions • Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are diamonds) • Fancy shapes are not as safe investments as round brilliants • As fancy shapes are cheaper they are inferior • Rounds are better than fancy shapes as they are more brilliant04/27/12 39
  40. 40. Consumer misconceptions 1. Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are diamonds) – Lack of knowledge and awareness – Preconditioning – Diamonds are actually not fixed to any single shape. They are cut according to the shape of the rough and the inclusions present04/27/12 40
  41. 41. Consumer misconceptions 2. Fancy shapes are not as safe investments as round brilliants – They are made of the same material regardless of their shape – Fundamental investment value the same – Market forces and demand supply only determine price volatility04/27/12 41
  42. 42. Consumer misconceptions 3. As fancy shapes are cheaper they are inferior – Fancy shapes are cheaper as they are more efficient from certain rough types when compared to Rounds – Edged fancies are cut from rough which is crystal based, thus being more suitable while curved fancies from slightly longer rough shapes – For eg. from a fine crystal rough of 1.00 crt a princess cut would give 0.75 cts whereas a round would give 0.50 cts04/27/12 42
  43. 43. Consumer misconceptions 4. Rounds are better than fancy shapes as they are more brilliant – Diamonds cannot be judged by brilliance alone – Same like human beings, brilliance (IQ) is not the only success factor – The importance of character and form in designing and creativity (shape, luster, contrast, design etc) – Eg. Emerald cut which is low in brilliance but high in terms of character with its reflective open light flow, and is still very popular04/27/12 43
  44. 44. Some examples04/27/12 44
  45. 45. Some examples De Beers
  46. 46. Some examples
  47. 47. Introduction to Fabulous Unrounds • One of the core collections of Fabjewels Pvt Ltd • A joint venture by H.Dipak & Co and the KBS Group • H.Dipak & Co is the worlds largest manufacturer and distributor of the princess cut diamond and other fancy shapes employing over 30oo people and based in Mumbai and Gujarat • KBS Group is leading jewellery manufacturer specializing in bridal jewellery to major retailers across the world. One of the top 3 exporters from Seepz. • Fabulous Unrounds is a category, that includes exquisitely finished jewellery created using Unround diamonds ranging from essentials to high end bridal04/27/12 47
  48. 48. Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12 48
  49. 49. Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12 49
  50. 50. Fabulous Unrounds04/27/12 50
  51. 51. Fabulous Unrounds Contact: Ankit Mehta: 9820785355 Hardesh Jain: 982066855104/27/12 51
  52. 52. Can I learn about ‘Unrounds’ in a Details YESAt IIJ, we include the study of fancy shapesCourses that include the fancy shapes are: IIJP Gem Masters Program Master Diamond Grader

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