Piedmontese winemaker


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Piedmontese winemaker

  2. 2. DOUBLETAKE From signature grapes to winemaking traditions, Italy’s grand Piedmont and Tuscany regions have forged two unique identities through the centuries. The great Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany have one thing in common: each has a single grape variety that defines its identity. In Piedmont, it’s the diva Nebbiolo; in Tuscany, the sturdier Sangiovese. Yet, like France’s Burgundy and Bordeaux, these two dynamic regions’ approach- es to life and winemaking couldn’t be more different. Join VINTAGES as we explore these spectacular winegrowing regions, meet two of their top producers, and introduce you to a host of fine wines.2 VINTAGES
  3. 3. VINTAGES 3
  4. 4. A TALE OF TWO FAMILIES Though one proffers wine samples from inside a humble farmhouse kitchen while the other operates from palatial premises, the Fenocchios of Piedmont and the Antinoris of Tuscany are both driving forces in their respective regions. The Fenocchio winery, run by Claudio (pictured) and Alberto Fenocchio, encompasses about 12 hectares in various locations including their renowned Bussia vineyards. The Fenocchios of Piedmont Cherished traditions born of simple roots It was started as a tiny venture in 1864 by Stefano Fenocchio, and the Fenocchio winery remains in the family today. Visitors to the Barolo-area property – which has grown some from its early years – are likely to be invited into the family kitchen, which doubles as the tasting room. Giacomo, the father of the generation currently running the operation, was a firm believer in tradition. In fact, he’s been quoted as saying, “You don’t change a method or a culture, because they are not ours to change.” Giacomo’s sons, Claudio and Alberto, proudly carry on the traditions passed on to them from both their father and grandfather. The results are wines, including single-vineyard bottlings from Fenocchio’s fine Bussia property, which reflect the family’s down-to-earth heritage while offering a nod to modern techniques. GIACOMO FENOCCHIO BUSSIA BAROLO 2005 See Page 9 for tasting note.4 VINTAGES
  5. 5. The Antinoris of Tuscany Grand visions from a noble lineage With holdings throughout Tuscany and beyond, the family- run house of Antinori is the epitome of aristocratic Italy. Though the company as we know it was formed in 1895, the family’s involvement in winemaking goes all the way back to the 14th century. Antinori has expanded over the last century or so to become one of the most important producers in Italy; they really began to hit their stride after current head Piero Antinori took over in 1966. He, along with a handful of others, was responsible for making the Tuscan wine industry what it is today, and was a pioneer in the Supertuscan move- ment that pushed against the strictures of the regional appellation system, and resulted in the creation of the IGT system that recognized wines that broke appella- tion rules. Visit any of the many Antinori properties and you’ll find palace-like buildings with vast expanses of vineyards that seemingly disappear into the distance. And yet, this is still a family affair – on a 21st-century Tuscan scale. ANTINORI PIAN DELLE VIGNE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 See Page 12 for tasting note. RIGHT: The Antinori winery’s operations are overseen by Piero Antinori, with his daughters (from left, pictured at their Tignanello estate) Alberia, Alessia and Allegra. TOP: Antinori vineyardssurround the Medieval Castello della Sala. CENTRE LEFT:In centuries past, wineries sold their products through tiny doors like this. CENTRE RIGHT: Wrought-iron gates open into the family’s 15th-century Florence palazzo. VINTAGES 5
  6. 6. Handcrafted wines coaxed from challenging terrain PIEDMONT properties to be found. Producers akin to gentlemen farmers practice their craft on small holdings, making artisanal wines from vineyards often just outside the family home’s front door. Piedmontese winemakers generally embrace the “one grape/one wine” philosophy found in Burgundy. That grape is the finicky Nebbiolo, which thrives in Piedmont’s perfect confluence of terroir features. With their continental climates, sandy soils, and vineyards on undulating hills ringed by mountains, the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations have made Nebbiolo what it is (this despite their size: Barolo has only 1700 hectares under vine; Barbaresco, less than 800). Although equal in pedigree, Barbaresco, with its slightly milder climate, makes Nebbiolos that tend to be more elegant and approachable than the burly, long-lived Barolos. Other grapes thrive in Piedmont too, such as Dolcetto and Barbera, which make juicy, crowd-pleasing wines. Any alpine region presents challenges The region’s wines match its cuisine perfectly. for farming, and in Piedmont, this Piedmont is where rice (used for risotto) first prospered means that winemaking has always been in Italy, and where truffle dogs and pigs can be confined to small, often isolated seen working the hilly areas around Alba, snuffling single-vineyard areas, with few grand for the rare white version of the prized fungi.6 VINTAGES
  7. 7. ABOVE: Barolo’s Castello Falletti, parts of which date to the 10th century. RIGHT: Piedmont, which translates as “foot of the mountain” is defined by its rolling hills surrounded by the Italian Alps. BOTTOM RIGHT: Nebbiolo grapes. VINTAGES 7
  8. 8. LA QUERCIOLA PODERI DI LUIGI EINAUDI GUASTI CLEMENTE & GUASTI CLEMENTE & CHICCHIVELLO LANGHE DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI FIGLI FONDA S. NICOLAO FIGLI RISERVA ROSSO 2008 2009 BARBERA D’ASTI BARBARESCO 2005 DOC DOC SUPERIORE 2005 DOCG DOC Though they did not write a TASTING NOTE: Supple and TASTING NOTE: Fine Nebbiolo review for this wine, in their harmonious, offering aromas Gambero Rosso gave this wine     ¡ with aromas of chestnut, 2010 guide, Gambero Rosso     ¡ and flavors of ripe black cherry, a rating of in its 2010 cherry, blackberry and cedar rated it . raspberry, dark chocolate and edition, but did not provide a spice. Dry with plentiful iron aromas and flavors. The written review. fruit and finely matched tannins TASTING NOTE: This blend vibrant structure keeps this and acidity. Very good aroma of Dolcetto, Barbera and defined and persistent as the TASTING NOTE: Pretty, crowd- replays, especially chestnut and Nebbiolo is a good example of finish lingers. Drink now pleasing Barbera with aromas cherry. Medium bodied with the Piedmontese style, with through 2014. Smart Buy. of spring flowers, cherry, herbes a long, balanced and focused aromas of hibiscus, leather, Score: 90 (Bruce Sanderson, de Provence, and coffee bean. finish. Approachable now pomegranate, tar and candied winespectator.com, April 30, Dry, lovely fruit tones with a racy with grilled steaks and wild strawberry. Dry, with very good 2011) acidity bringing excellent mushroom risotto, but will also aroma replays, plus some refreshment to the wine even reward 3-5 years in a cellar. soft acids and gentle tannins 232454 (XD) 750 mL after six years. Medium (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010) for balance. Serve it very $18.95 £ bodied with a hint of tannin slightly chilled to bring the finer coming in on the mid-palate 233908 (XD) 750 mL aromas out. Enjoy with lamb for balance. A great wine to $35.95 £ burgers, gourmet beef burgers, enjoy with grilled lamb chops. New at VINTAGES or steaks. (VINTAGES panel, (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010) Aug. 2011) 233890 (XD) 750 mL 225227 (D) 750 mL $21.95 £ $13.95 ¢ New at VINTAGES8 VINTAGES
  9. 9. The village of Barolo is dominated by the Castello Falletti and, to its left, the Romanesque San Donato chapel. The castle is used for wine tastings and educational exhibits about wine production.GIACOMO FENOCCHIOBUSSIA BAROLO 2005DOCGThis cru Barolo comes fromthe finest part of Fenocchio’sBussia vineyards locatedin Monforte d’Alba. They agethe wine for three years inSlavonian oak casks and thenanother year in bottle beforerelease. Enjoy it with slow-cooked roast beef or grilled-rare steaks.TASTING NOTE: Fresh, elegant,and lively, with good fruitand fine balance. Drink 2010- ¤ ¤ ¤ ¤ ¤2015. Score:(decanter.com, Undated)232421 (XD) 750 mL$42.95 ¥Featured on theback coverNew at VINTAGES VINTAGES 9
  10. 10. Famous blends and expansive, sun-kissed vineyards TUSCANY too, yet only in the last 35 years or so has a real winemaking renaissance emerged in Tuscany. Aristocratic families, such as the Antinoris and Frescobaldis, whose connections to winemaking go back to before Leonardo, led a charge to shake up winemaking, creating Supertuscans that morphed into IGT-designated versions. Unlike the Piedmontese approach to winemaking, the Tuscan philosophy is more akin to Bordeaux’s: the art of the blend. Though focused on the great local grape Sangiovese, wineries – especially in Chianti Classico, its satellites, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, selected IGT wines and some others – have flour- ished with the option of using multiple supplemental varieties. There are exceptions: The wines of Brunello di Montalcino made their mark by adhering to a clone of Sangiovese that’s now generally known as the Brunello grape. With its expanses of land for grape growing, and winemaking families with ample resources to spend From art to politics to philosophical on large properties, Tuscany has emerged as a major pursuits, Florence was the point from stop on many a wine lover’s travels. The food is a which many important legacies of draw, too, with good reason: Tuscan cuisine, such as the Renaissance emerged. Over the steak Florentine, showcases fresh, local ingredients, centuries, winemaking has been key simply crafted to accentuate flavours.10 VINTAGES
  11. 11. This idyllic, sun-drenchedlandscape dotted with cypresstrees is typically Tuscan. VINTAGES 11
  12. 12. ABOVE: A colourful fall vineyard in therolling hills near Siena. BELOW: Producersassess bottles of their Brunello diMontalcino. BOTTOM: Sangiovese grapes. CORDELLA ROSSO DI ANTINORI PIAN DELLE SAN FELICE MONTALCINO 2009 VIGNE BRUNELLO DI CAMPOGIOVANNI DOC MONTALCINO 2005 BRUNELLO DI DOCG MONTALCINO 2005 TASTING NOTE: Beautifully DOCG made wine from young TASTING NOTE: The 2005 Sangiovese Grosso vines. Plum, Brunello di Montalcino is a TASTING NOTE: Wild berry licorice, garden herbs, leather gorgeous, classy offering laced and forest aromas open the (think freshly oiled baseball with fragrant, mineral-infused nose of this clean and direct glove) and cherry. Dry and red fruit, flowers and spices. Brunello. There’s very nice fruity with good acidity for This delicate, medium-bodied purity and intensity here and refreshment and gentle Brunello reveals outstanding the wine showcases layers of tannins for balance. Medium length and a clean, refreshing red fruit, plum, spice, leather bodied with a medium-long, finish. With time in the glass, the and rose petal. The silky and very elegant finish. This is very wine’s inner perfume emerges, smooth mouthfeel would work enjoyable now with grilled adding even greater complexity. with meat dishes or hearty lamb skewers, or cellar 1-2 Antinori’s 2005 Brunello is pasta. Score: 91 years. (VINTAGES panel, one of the successes of the (Monica Larner, Wine Aug. 2011) vintage ... Anticipated maturity: Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2010) 2011-2021 ... Score: 92 251462 (XD) 750 mL (Antonio Galloni, erobertpark- 991075 (XD) 750 mL $19.95 ¦ er.com, April 2010) $44.95 ¦ Featured as our 651141 (XD) 750 mL Wine of the Month $59.95 New at VINTAGES ¦ Featured on the back cover 12 VINTAGES
  13. 13. SCOPETANI VOLPAIA TENUTA DI NOZZOLE LA POLIZIANO VINO NOBILECHIANTI RISERVA 2007 CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008 FORRA CHIANTI CLASSICO DI MONTEPULCIANO 2007DOCG DOCG RISERVA 2007 DOCG (Giovannella Stianti) DOCGTASTING NOTE: A fine Chianti (Ambrogio e Giovanni TASTING NOTE: The 2007Riserva with classic aromas TASTING NOTE: Volpaia’s 2008 Folonari) Vino Nobile di Montepulcianoof cherry, red berries, roasted Chianti Classico is a pretty, impresses for its rich, weightycoffee, olive, and earth tones. mid-weight offering informed by TASTING NOTE: The 2007 personality packed with redDry, youthful and fresh wine that tobacco, flowers, herbs and Chianti Classico Riserva La fruit. The roundness of thewill reward cellaring (3-5+ cherries. As is often the case in Forra blossoms on the palate fruit carries through nicely toyears), or match it tonight with cooler years, these high- with an exciting array of dark the finish, showing no hardroast leg of lamb. (VINTAGES altitude vineyards tend to yield fruit, smoke, earthiness and edges and fabulous balance.panel, Nov. 2010) a more ethereal style of wine. licorice. French oak adds Floral notes add brightness Still, this Chianti Classico finds volume and spiciness but with- and lift on the close. Anticipated164814 (D) 750 mL its balance nicely with time out detracting from the purity maturity: 2010-2017. These$14.95 § in the glass. It is a model of of the fruit or the silkiness of are among the finest wines I restrained elegance. the tannins. This is a very can remember tasting Anticipated maturity: 2010- beautiful La Forra from Folonari. from Poliziano, one of Monte- 2014. Score: 90 (Antonio The warm, inviting personality pulciano’s reference-point Galloni, erobertparker.com, of the vintage is on full display, producers. Score: 90 (Antonio August 2010) making this a terrific choice Galloni, erobertparker.com, for drinking over the next few Oct. 2010) 953828 (XD) 750 mL years. Anticipated maturity: $21.95 ¨ 2010-2017. Score: 92 988055 (XD) 750 mL (Antonio Galloni, erobertpark- $25.95 ¨ er.com, Oct. 2010) 177279 (XD) 750 mL $29.95 ¨ VINTAGES 13
  14. 14. LEFT: A winery worker harvests grapes for Chianti in a vineyard purportedly once owned by Machiavelli.14 VINTAGES
  15. 15. CASA DI TERRA MORECCIO MARCHESI DE’ POGGIO VERRANO LUCE DELLA VITE LUCEBOLGHERI 2009 FRESCOBALDI TERRE CHANCE 2005 2008DOC MORE DELL’ AMMIRAGLIA IGT Maremma Toscana, IGT Toscana 2009 Limited EditionTASTING NOTE: Despite its IGT Maremma Toscana The 2008 is not reviewed,very young age, this bright TASTING NOTE: The 2005 but all the vintages from 200330-30-40 blend of Syrah, This is a brand new project Chance is impressive. A blend to 2007 received scoresMerlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for Frescobaldi. of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon between 90 and 95 in theshows impressive sophistication and Cabernet Franc ... This Wine Spectator.and personality. Neutral oak TASTING NOTE: This blend shows notable delineationis used to fine-tune the spice of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and depth, with an attractive TASTING NOTE: Really jumpsaromas and the wine shows Cabernet Franc and Syrah roundness to the fruit that out of the glass with aromas ofintense flavors of blackberry, features aromas of rich plum, flows through to the finish. The mint, plum, new leather, cedar,cherry, leather and pipe smoked meat, currants, vanilla finish tapers off just a touch, coffee and vanilla. Dry withtobacco. Score: 89 (Monica and leather. Dry with lots of fruit which is the only thing that textured tannins surroundingLarner, Wine Enthusiast, surrounded by softening keeps the score from going the vibrant fruit. To use aDec. 15, 2010) tannins. A fine non-traditional higher, but I suspect that will music metaphor, it offers the Tuscan blend with a very good be less of a problem in more whole range from bass to232405 (XD) 750 mL future ahead of it (cellar 3-5+ favorable vintages. This is a treble, and yet there’s likely$19.95 © years), or enjoy it tonight with great example of the exuber- even more to come downNew at VINTAGES grilled wild game along with ant, juicy reds being made the road. Cellar it 3-5+ years, grilled zucchini and eggplant. in the province of Grosseto ... or enjoy it tonight, decanted, (VINTAGES panel, Jan. 2011) It is a fabulous effort from with a juicy steak and a wild Poggioverano. Anticipated mushroom risotto. (VINTAGES 239889 (XD) 750 mL maturity: 2010-2020. panel, Aug. 2011) $19.95 © Score: 92 (Antonio Galloni, New at VINTAGES erobertparker.com, Oct. 2010) 651000 (XD) 375 mL $49.95 © 239707 (XD) 750 mL $33.95 © 685263 (XD) 750 mL $99.95 © VINTAGES 15