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# Frommers barcelona, 2009, 3 ed

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### Frommers barcelona, 2009, 3 ed

1. 1. To convert......................... multiply by 110˚ F U.S. gallons to liters........................ 3.8 40˚ C Liters to U.S. gallons....................... .26 100˚ F U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.......83 90˚ F Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons....1.20 30˚ C Imperial gallons to liters............... 4.55 80˚ F Liters to imperial gallons................ .22 70˚ F 20˚ C 1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters 60˚ F 50˚ F 10˚ C 40˚ F 32˚ F 0˚ C To convert......................... multiply by Inches to centimeters.................... 2.54 20˚ F Centimeters to inches.......................39 -10˚ C 10˚ F Feet to meters...................................30 Meters to feet................................3.28 0˚ F -18˚ C Yards to meters.................................91 -10˚ F Meters to yards..............................1.09 Miles to kilometers........................1.61 -20˚ F -30˚ C Kilometers to miles......................... .62 1 ft = .30 m 1 mile = 1.6 km 1 m = 3.3 ft 1 km = .62 mile To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: To convert..........................multiply by multiply by 1.8 Ounces to grams......................... 28.35 and add 32 Grams to ounces.............................035 Pounds to kilograms....................... .45 32˚ F = 0˚ C Kilograms to pounds.....................2.20 1 ounce = 28 gramsISBN 978-0-470-38747-4 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
2. 2. Barcelona 3rd Edition by Peter Stone Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —BOOKLIST“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —GLAMOUR MAGAZINE “Hotel information is close to ency clopedic.” —DES MOINES SUNDAY REGISTER“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving y ou a real feel for a place.” —KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
4. 4. CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vi WHAT’S NEW IN BARCELONA 1 1 THE BEST OF BARCELONA 31 The Most Unforgettable Barcelona 5 The Best Things to Do For Free . . . . .6 Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 6 The Best Stuff to Bring Home. . . . . . .72 The Best Splurge Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .5 7 The Best Activities for Families. . . . . .83 The Best Moderately Priced 8 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 2 BARCELONA IN DEPTH 101 Barcelona Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Gaudí: “My Place Is Here, with2 Looking Back at Barcelona . . . . . . . .12 the Poor” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 Barcelona’s Art & Architecture . . . .17 4 Barcelona in Popular Culture . . . . . .20 5 Eating & Drinking in Barcelona . . . .23 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BARCELONA 301 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 4 Getting There & Getting Destination Barcelona: Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Pre-Departure Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .492 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 The Euro, the U.S. Dollar & the3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 British Pound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Cut to the Front of the Airport What Things Cost in Barcelona . . . . . 51 Security Line as a Registered 6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 7 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Barcelona Calendar of Events . . . . . . . 36 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .56
5. 5. iv 9 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Frommers.com: The Complete It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 10 Packages for the Independent 12 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 13 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Ask Before You Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Online Traveler’s Toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . . 68 11 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . .64 14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .69 4 SUGGESTED BARCELONA ITINERARIES 71 1 City Layout. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 3 The Best of Barcelona The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . 74 in 2 Days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 2 The Best of Barcelona 4 The Best of Barcelona in 1 Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86B A R C E LO N A 5 WHERE TO STAY 90 1 The Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 5 Barrio Alto & Gràcia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 2 Ciutat Vella (Barri Gòtic, El Raval 6 Barceloneta Vila Olímpica & La Ribera) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 & Poble Nou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 3 L’Eixample . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Bright Lights, Spa City. . . . . . . . . . . . . .123CO N T E N T S Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 7 On the Outskirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Barcelona’s Self-Catering Scene . . . .116 8 Apartments & Aparthotels . . . . . . 126 4 Sants, Paral.lel & Montjuïc . . . . . . . 118 6 WHERE TO DINE 128 1 Food for Thought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 7 L’Eixample . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 2 The Best Restaurant Bets . . . . . . . . 130 Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .154 3 Ciutat Vella: Barri Gòtic . . . . . . . . . . 132 8 Gràcia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Make It Snappy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Eating Alfresco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 4 Ciutat Vella: La Ribera . . . . . . . . . . . 139 9 Barceloneta & Vila Olímpica . . . . . 160 5 Ciutat Vella: El Raval . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 10 Barrio Alto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 More Tapas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 11 Out of Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 6 Poble Sec & Montjuïc . . . . . . . . . . . 147 7 WHAT TO SEE & DO 169 1 Ciutat Vella (Old City). . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Gaudí’s Resting Place. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186 Barcelona’s Patron Saint: Doing the Moderniste Walk . . . . . . . .188 Santa Eulalia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 3 Gràcia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 El Call: The Jewish Quarter . . . . . . . . .176 4 Montjuïc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 2 L’Eixample . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
6. 6. The Magic Fountain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Small but Good: Other v5 The Harborfront. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Barcelona Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2026 Outer Barcelona. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 7 Parks & Gardens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Mes Que un Club (More than 8 Outdoor & Sporting Pursuits . . . . 204 a Club)! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201 8 STROLLING AROUND BARCELONA 207 Walking Tour 1: Barri Gotic Walking Tour 3: El Raval . . . . . . . . . . .214 (The Gothic Quarter). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Walking Tour 4: Moderniste Route Walking Tour 2: La Ribera (El Born (L’Eixample) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217 & Sant Pere) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211 9 SHOPPING 221 B A R C E LO N A1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 La Boqueria: One of the World’s2 Shopping A To Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Finest Food Markets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230 The Zaravolución . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 To Market, to Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 Specialty Stores in the Barri Gòtic . . .23710 BARCELONA AFTER DARK 240 CO N T E N T S Keep It Down. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241 3 Bars, Cafes, Pubs & Clubs . . . . . . . . 2471 Best Bars and Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Dancing with the Green Fairy . . . . . .2512 The Performing Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 The Village People. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25411 SIDE TRIPS IN CATALONIA 2601 Montserrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 El Call . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281 Route of the Cistercian 5 Lloret de Mar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Monasteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262 Garden of Sea and Myrtle. . . . . . . . . .285 A Romanesque Route to the 6 Tossa de Mar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Pyrénées . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 7 Sant Feliu de Guíxols . . . . . . . . . . . . 2902 Tarragona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 8 Palafrugell & Its Beaches . . . . . . . . 292 Catalonia Remembers Pablo A Room with a View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .293 Casals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 Greeks & Romans in Empúries. . . . . .294 The Beaches of the Costa Daurada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271 9 Figueres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2943 Sitges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 The Mad, Mad World of Salvador Dalí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296 Where the Boys Are . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 10 Cadaqués . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Cava Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 The Most Famous Chef in4 Girona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 the World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299
7. 7. 12 A SIDE TRIP TO MAJORCA 300 1 Palma de Majorca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 3 Port de Pollença/Formentor. . . . . 317 2 Valldemossa & Deia (Deya) . . . . . . 315 APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 320 1 Fast Facts: Barcelona . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites. . . . 326 APPENDIX B: USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 329 1 Useful Words & Phrases . . . . . . . . . 329 2 Numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 INDEX 332 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . 338 LIST OF MAPSBarcelona for Foodies . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Gràcia Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Spain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Barceloneta Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Barcelona Public Vila Olímpica Dining. . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Transportation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Barcelona Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . 170Greater Barcelona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Walking Tour 1: Barri GòticThe Best of Barcelona (Gothic Quarter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 in 1 Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Walking Tour 2: La RiberaThe Best of Barcelona (El Born & Sant Pere) . . . . . . . . . . 213 in 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Walking Tour 3: El Raval . . . . . . . . . 215The Best of Barcelona Walking Tour 4: Moderniste in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Route (L’Eixample) . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Ciutat Vella Accommodations . . . . . 97 Catalonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263L’Eixample Accommodations. . . . . 107 Tarragona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Sants, Paral.lel & Montjuïc Sitges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Girona & the Costa Brava . . . . . . . . 279Ciutat Vella Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Majorca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301L’Eixample Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Palma de Majorca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
10. 10. What’s New in BarcelonaEver inventive and dynamic, Bar- More passengers are choosing to fly thecelona is a city that is constantly changing economy airline Clickair (www .clickair.and adv ancing deeper into the 21st cen- com), which is based in B arcelona, rathertury. In Barceloneta, the city’s harborfront than larger airlines, like Iberia (www.iberia.region, the huge horseshoe-shaped Brullet- com). H owever, I beria’s “ Air B ridge” toPineda–designed Barcelona B iomedical Madrid still r emains the busiest flightResearch P ark (PRBB; www .prbb.org), route in the country.between the H ospital del M ars and Ar ts High-speed AVE trains from BarcelonaHotel, was finished in 2008. I t featur es to Madrid started operating in 2008. Thisstate-of-the-art laboratories, as w ell as an new service carries passengers between theimpressive auditorium and spor ts center . two cities in just o ver 2 1/2 hours. The ser-Around Port Olympic, just past Barcelon- vice has been incredibly popular, and as aneta, nearly 3,000 ne w apar tments and added bonus, if any A VE train arriv eshouses ar e due for completion b y 2009, more than 10 minutes late, the passengerand mor e r enovations to the Forum— gets a full r eimbursement for the cost ofwhich hosted the city’s 2004 exhibition— the ticket. In the future, there are plans towere carried out to prepare it for the Euro extend this line as far as P erpignan, France,Science O pen F orum in 2008. M ean- where TGV connections will make B arce-while, west of the city center , just 3.2km lona just 4 1/2 hours fr om Paris. For more(2 miles) from Montjuïc, work is continu- information, visit the Spanish rail website,ing on the Fira of B arcelona (www. www.renfe.es.firabcn.es), which currently hosts 80 trade GETTING AROUND The city r ecentlyfairs a year. When construction is finished, implemented a bike-r ental plan whichit will be one of the largest business centers encourages visitors and r esidents alike toin Europe. use bicycles as a means of transpor tation.PLANNING Y OUR TRIP T O BARCE- Around 3,000 ne w r ed bikes ar e no wLONA Barcelona’s E l P rat airpor t, the available for short rentals at a weekly fee ofsecond-largest airpor t in S pain, is under- just 1€ (\$1.30) fr om over a hundr ed dif-going an expansion that will add a four th ferent stops. A t pr ess time, bike r entalsterminal in 2009 which will co ver long- were limited to 30 minutes, but thehaul flights to distant destinations, espe- numerous pickup stations and the increas-cially Asia. It’s calculated that the airpor t’s ing pr oliferation of cy cle trails in B arce-annual number of passengers will mush- lona offer many possibilities for the shor troom from 33 million in 2008 to 55 mil- period. For more information or to down-lion by 2010. load a map mar king pickup points, visit www.bicing.com.
11. 11. 2 WHERE TO STAY The Mandarin Ori- l’Historia de la Ciutat ’s subterranean ental Hotel, Passeig de Gràcia 18 ( & 93- Roman city. The decision should be made 481-54-42; www.mandarinoriental.com), in 2009, so watch out for what could be a 98-room luxury hotel in a magnificently yet another fascinating contribution to the refurbished mid-20th-century building, is city’s historic attractions. due to open in 2009. It’ll have 52 spacious Another traditional covered market ear- and ex quisitely designed suites, sev eral marked for a face-lift is Sant Antoni (also first-class r estaurants and bars including designed by Rovira i Trias), which lies just one with alfr esco dining on a large out- beyond the w estern boundaries of E l door terrace, plus a r ooftop pool and an Raval. No ruins have been discovered here, innovative spa featuring “holistic rejuvena- so it will follo w in the footsteps of the tion.” already r enovated and still flourishing WHERE T O DINE Emu (& 93-218- Mercat Barceloneta and La Ribera’s Mer- 45-02; p. 158) is a ne w adventurous res- cat S anta C aterina, both of which hav e taurant r un b y a y oung A ussie couple in undergone some nifty surger y in r ecentW H AT ’S N E W chic Gràcia. It serves what are probably the years that’s left them looking immaculate best and most pungent curries in to and wn without shedding their original character . even pr ovides Antipodean wines to go Work on Sant Antoni will start at the end with them. The real specialty is Thai and of 2009 or beginning of 2010. Malaysian grub, so look out for the spicy PARKS In 2008 the finishing touches yellow chicken curry. were made to the long rambling Parc MARKETS The Mercat El Born at the Central de P oble N ou, which r uns into eastern end of the Ciutat Vella, designed the Parc Diagonal Mar at its far eastern by moderniste ar chitect Antoni R ovira i end. This latest leisure area is the wor k of Trias, is one of the most beautiful 19th- Jean Nouvel, who designed the controver- century industrial revolution structures in sial Agbar to wer, and it is v ery much a Barcelona. It closed for r enovation several cool, 21st-centur y cr eation rather than a years back with the aim of being converted traditional stroll-and-picnic place. I ts vir- into the city’s main provincial library. But tual lunar landscape, interspersed with a during ex cavations it was disco vered that few huge plants and surr ealistic statues, is beneath the mar ket w ere the r emarkably slightly softened b y a central per fumed well-preserved r emains of the original garden and its flanking bougainvillea-co v- medieval city. Work has since ceased while ered walls. F urther up the coast in the the authorities deliberate on whether they still-burgeoning z one bey ond the F orum, should continue with the librar y pr oject the 11-hectar e (27-acr e) Parc de la P au or build a whole ne w museum with a (Park of P eace)—finished in 2006—has basement r e-creation of B arcelona in the helped brighten up the unlovely industrial Middle Ages, on the lines of M useu de suburb of Sant Adrià de Besòs.
12. 12. 1 The Best of BarcelonaWith its ag ricultural wealth, excellent harbor, and industrious popu-lation, B arcelona has always managed to flourish thr ough both good times and bad.When Madrid was still a dusty Castilian hamlet, the Ciudad Condal (as it ’s popularlyknown) was a powerful, diverse capital with a Mediterranean empire that extended as faras Athens. Influenced over the centuries by Romans, Visigoths, Franks, and even Castil-ians, it absorbed a little of each of their influences to become the fascinatingly completecity it is today. Landmark Gothic buildings and world-class museums fill the historic center , and thewhimsical creations of the modernisme movement and cutting-edge contemporary archi-tecture line the wide boulev ards of the ne wer city. An array of nightlife (B arcelona is abig par ty town) and shopping possibilities, plus nearb y wineries, ensur e that y ou’ll beentertained ‘round the clock. It makes for some serious sightseeing; you’ll need plenty oftime to take them all in and just as much to appr eciate the city ’s unique, hiddencharm. The surr ounding gr een and fer tile countr yside is equally enticing and the co ve-indented Costa Brava coastline to the north boasts some of the loveliest scenery in all theMediterranean. Inland, the to wering Pyrénées mountain range that separates the pr ov-ince from France is a paradise for walkers and skiers. In all it’s a stimulating and reward-ing region to sav or and appr eciate to the full, and one of the most richly v aried in thecountry. 1 T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E B A R C E LO N A E X P E R I E N C E S• Strolling Along La R ambla: Barcelo- dishes) are perfect spots either for lunch na’s most famous pr omenade pulses or a r elaxing end-of-day drink, often with life. The array of living statues, accompanied b y the music of an in- street musicians, per formers, hustlers, house DJ. See p. 252. and eccentrics ensur e ther e is nev er a • Exploring the El Born Neighborhood: dull moment during y our kilometer- This compact mediev al quar ter just long stroll. See p. 71. inland fr om B arceloneta was once a• Having a D rink at S unset on the labyrinth of ear thy ar tisan wor kshops. Beach: The Catalan capital ’s 4-mile Now the “in ” cr owds conv erge on its stretch of ne w city beaches, whose narrow tangle of str eets lined b y reno- promenade, jetties, and marinas ar e vated old mansions: by day to check out lapped b y inviting M editerranean top museums like the Picasso and smart waters, hav e been transformed fr om a shops exhibiting the latest in cutting- once-neglected ar ea into a r ound-the- edge fashion and design; at night to clock international playgr ound. Their enjoy the plethora of bars and r estau- atmospheric chiringuitos (waterside bars rants offering the ultimate in N ew and eating spots specializing in seafood Catalan cuisine. See p. 211.
13. 13. 4 • Attending a Concert at the Palau de la reveal increasingly breathtaking views of Música C atalana: This masterpiece of the city belo w. Both of these vintage modernista (Ar t N ouveau) ar chitecture forms of transport were built over a cen- must be one of the most lavish concer t tury ago to transpor t people to the halls in the world. All strains of classical church and amusement par k on the and jazz ar e played, but ev en the most mountain’s peak. The exhilarating jour- finicky music lo ver will be mo ved b y ney they pr ovide is par t of the fun. S ee the P alau’s onslaught of decorativ e p. 203. detail. See p. 179. • Dining at Els Quatre Gats: The origi- • Eating B reakfast at the B oqueria: nal acted as a fraternity house for late- There ar e about a doz en bars and r es- 18th-century dandies. It later became aT H E B E S T O F B A R C E LO N A taurants in the city’s main food market, preferred hangout for the young Picasso one of the largest and most color ful in and his Bohemian contemporaries. Spain. I t’s become fashionable these While most of the ar t adorning the days and y ou can no w r ub shoulders walls is no w reproductions, this classic with B arcelona’s top chefs and gour- Catalan restaurant is still alive with his- mands o ver a coffee and cr oissant as tory. The r esident pianist and general you watch the day ’s deliv eries coming formality only add to the atmospher e. in. See p. 255. See p. 134. • Bar-Hopping in the B arri G òtic: • Taking Your F irst G lance at the Whether it ’s an iconic, smoke-filled Sagrada F amília: N othing quite pr e- 1 tapas bar , an I rish pub fr equented b y pares you for the first glimpse of G audí’s expats, or a cocktail lounge filled with most famous wor k, which er upts fromT H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E B A R C E LO N A E X P E R I E N C E S minimalist furnitur e and minimally the center of a suburban city block like clad patrons, Barcelona’s Old City is a some r etro-futurist gr otto. D raw y our watering-hole mecca, bar none. O ne of eyes skyward from a facade rich in r eli- the best locales is Ginger, a comfy , gious symbolism to the temple ’s four classy tapas and wine bar with the feel towers. Then step over the threshold to of a private club. See p. 249. the unfinished interior. See p. 184. • Spending a Sunday on Montjuïc: The • People-Watching at the M useu d ’Art sharply rising hill of M ontjuïc is the Contemporari de B arcelona (MACBA): first sight that gr eets visitors arriving at The for ecourt of the M useum of Con- the por t. B ehind its r ocky seaside face temporary Art is a snapshot of the ne w are acr es of pine-dotted par kland multicultural B arcelona. S pend some beloved by cyclists, joggers, and strollers time at one of its outside bars watching on the w eekend. Topped b y a castle Pakistani cricket play ers, local kids museum with stunning city vie ws, it playing soccer, and N orthern European provides a tranquil alternativ e to the skateboarders in a fascinating melting hustle of the city below and offers some pot of recreational activity. See p. 181. welcome breathing space. See p. 191. • Staying Up Until Dawn: A long dinner, • Taking a Trip to Tibidabo b y Tram a few drinks at a bar , on to a club , and and Funicular: The summit of the city’s then before you know it the sun is rising distinctive inland backdrop is reached in over the M editerranean’s par ty capital, two stages: first b y a “blue tram ” (tram- throwing a warm glo w o ver the city ’s via blau), which winds past S arrià dis- palm-filled plazas and str eets. N othing trict’s elegant houses, and then b ya beats a slo w walk home at this magical creaky Ar t D eco funicular lift, which hour (preferably through the Old City). rattles its way up the mountainside to If you manage to catch up on your sleep
14. 14. during the day , chances ar e y ou will de G lòries. The to wer was built b y 5 repeat the experience that night. architect J ean N ouvel in honor of the• Looking Up at the Torre Agbar: Even city’s 2004 F orum. I t has o ver 4,000 more contr oversial than the S agrada multiform light-r eflecting windo ws Família when it first appeared, this 470- and curr ently houses the offices of foot multi-hued phallic-shaped to wer the B arcelona Water Boar d. You get a erupts surr ealistically fr om the other- great view of it fr om the top of M ont- wise bland cityscape ar ound the P laça juïc. See p. 11. 2 T H E B E S T S P LU R G E H O T E L S T H E B E S T O F B A R C E LO N A• Hotel 1898, La Rambla 109 ( & 93- models and temperamental r ock stars, 552-95-52): This delux e hideaway in the H otel Ar ts has r emained a jet-set the Barri Gòtic is a 19th-century build- playground and symbol of “ cool Barce- ing that ’s been updated with some lona” for well over a decade. See p. 122. ultra-sharp interior decor that includes • Hotel España, Sant Pau 11 (& 93-318- lavish colors on each floor. See p. 99. 17-58): This hotel combines comfor t• Hotel C asa F uster, P asseig de G ràcia and luxur y with the ev ocation of a 132 ( & 93-225-30-00): This moderni- bygone age. D esigned by a contempo- sta masterpiece was an emblematic rary of G audí’s, the str eet-level dining building before it was recently converted room, filled with florid motif and brass 1 into this luxur y fiv e-star. The r ooms fixtures, will whisk y ou back to the T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E LY P R I C E D H O T E L S have been restored to turn-of-the-20th- early 1900s, when it was filled with century opulence, but no w have all the chattering patrons taking supper after a modern conveniences. See p. 106. trip to the opera house next door . See• Hotel Arts, Marina 19–21 ( & 93-221- p. 104. 10-00): The pr eferred choice of top 3 T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E LY P R I C E D H O T E L S• Hotel P eninsular, S ant P au 34–36 two adjacent buildings, each of the 14 (& 93-302-31-38): Serenity and char- rooms has a distinct character , but all acter abound in this nunner y-turned- include canopied beds, antique furni- hotel. Located on a color ful street just ture, and Andalusian-style ceramic off La Rambla, it featur es an Ar t Nou- bathrooms. See p. 115. veau elevator and a lush inner courtyard • Marina Folch, Carrer del Mar 16, prin- that make it feel like a r efuge from the cipal ( & 93-310-37-09): This small hustle and bustle outside. I t’s under- family-run hotel is y our best lo w-cost standably popular, so book ahead. S ee option in the beachside neighborhood p. 104. of B arceloneta, wher e ther e ar e plenty• Hostal D’U xelles, G ran Vía 688 and of outdoor bars and open spaces for the 667 ( & 93-265-25-60): This hostal kids to run wild. Ask for a r oom at the looks like it has stepped straight off the front for a balcony with a vie w of the pages of one of those r ustic-interiors port. See p. 124. magazines. Located on the first floor of